US2310899A - Combination sport and dress shirt - Google Patents

Description

Feb. 9, 1943. J. c. LEEDS COMBINATION SPORT AND DRESS SHIRT 2 Shets-Sheet 1 Filed April 24, 1541 INVENTOR Jl/L E5 (1 L 405 BY M ATTORNEYS WITNESS Feb. 9, 1943.

.1. c. LEEDS COMBINATION SPORT AND DRESS SHIRT Filed April 24, 1541 2 Sheds-Sheet 2 INVENTOR James 6? Z5595 wim ESS ATTORNEYS Patented Feb. 9, 1943 COMBINATION SPORT DRESS SHIRT Jules 0. Leeds, Deal, N. J., assignor to The Manhattan Shirt Company, New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application April 24, 1941, Serial No. 390,023

3 Claims.

This invention relates to shirts, particularly mens and boys shirts, made of unstarched fabrics, with an attached collar, capable of manipulation in order that it can be utilized as a dress shirt or as a sport shirt.

In the drawings, Fig. 1 is a plan view of the upper portion of a mans shirt; Fig. 2 a plan view of one of the pair of collar facings; Fig. 3 a plan view of the main lining or interlining blank; Fig. 4 a plan view of the fold-forming guide and support for the collar; Fig. 5 a plan view of the combined collar facings, the main lining and the fold-forming guide with the latter two members exposed; Fig. 6 shows the elements of Fig. 5, the collar having been turned to position the facings outwardly; Fig. '7 shows the folded collar in fiat position viewed from the turned-over portion; Fig. 8 is a section on the line 8--8 of Fig. 5; Fig. 9 a section on the line 9-9 of Fig. 6; and Fig. 10 a section on the line Ill--lll of Fig. 7.

The shirt consists of the usual body I, and a collar 2, which is the subject-matter of this invention, stitched to the upper edge of the neck portion of the shirt. The collar is'made of two like fabric facings, each being of the shape and contour of the facing 3 of Fig. 2, and an interlining 4 made of woven material, preferably of the type usually used in collars for mens shirts. The interlining has substantially the same contour as the facings 3 and is cut to extend substantially throughout the entire length and width of the collar in order to lend body to the whole of the collar. A special fold-forming guide 5 is cut from woven material, which may be of any approved type including the same type of material of which the interlining 4 is made. This fold-forming guide is provided with a curved top edge, which need not necessarily be a true arc of a circle, and a bottom edge of any convenient configuration, preferably substantially of the same contour of the portion of the lower edge of the interlining 4 which it is intended to overlie.

The fold-forming guide is superposed on the interlining with the edge 6 of the interlining and the edge I of the fold-forming guide coincidental. The interlining and the top edge of the foldforming guide are stitched together by a row of stitching 8. The facings 3 are then united by a series of stitching 9 to the interlining l, as illustrated in Fig. 5. The collar is then turned in order to position the interlining 4 and the foldforming guide 5 between the two facings, as illustrated in Fig. 6. The highest point ID of the fold-forming guide lies slightly above a line drawn from the top edges of the collar tabs H, l2, and

'thefold-forming guide is cut to such size and so sewn to the interlining that it will occupy this relation in the preferred practice of this invention. Initially, when the fold-over portion i3 is turned downwardly, the top edge or high point IU of the fold-forming guide forms the fold line and although the breaking point of the fold line is formed only at one restricted portion of the collar, the collar will nevertheless fold along this line entirely across from one tab H to the other tab l2. Inasmuch as the high point ID, in the preferred practice of this invention, lies above a line drawn from the top edges of the tabs H, l2, the fold line of the collar will cause the collar to fold with a continuous head from the point H to point I 5 of the collar, which bead stands above the top edge of the tabs ll, l2. In addition to forming the fold line, the fold-forming guide 5 also acts to retain the back portion of the collar in upright position but does not interfere with the colla-rs capacity of lying substantially flat in such portions thereof as lie outside of the influence of the fold-forming guide. Consequently, when the collar is worn buttoned as a dress collar, the combination of the fold-forming guide and the intersecured tabs I l and I2, causes the collar to stand upright. When, however, the shirt is to be worn as a sport shirt, and the collar is unbuttoned, the portions of the collar beyond the edge of the foldforming guide can readily be spread outwardly, the back edge of the collar under the influence of the fold-forming guide standing substantially upright, as illustrated in Fig. 1.

The foregoing description is intended as illustrative of this invention. It is to be understood that the position of the high point of the foldforming guide determines the fold line. Should it not be desirous of forming the bead I4-l5 in the folded collar as prominently as there illustrated, or should it be desirous of having the fold lie exactly in line with the top edges of the tabs II and 12, the high point is accordingly dropped or lowered in order to lessen the prominence of the head I 4 I5 or to substantially eliminate it. The high point l0 may be dropped or lowered by making the fold-forming guide 5 of less height than utilized in forming a bead of the character shown at I l-I5.

In order to bead the lower edge 16 of the foldover portion of the collar, blind stitching I1 is formed to unite the turned in or hemmed portions of the inside facing of the collar and the turned in hem of the interlining, as shown in Fig. 10, but does not extend through the outer facing or the main portion of the lining lying therebeneath.

After the beading operation along the edge I6 is finished, the interlining 4, the fold-forming guide 5, and the lower portion of the inner facing which serves as the band of the collar, are secured together by a line of stitching l 8 substantially parallel to the line of stitching 8', which line of stitching I8 passes through these three sections of material (but not through the outer facing). When the collar is secured to the upper edge of the neck portion of the shirt, the portions of the interlining and the inner facing above the rows of stitching 8 and I8 readily fold along the high point ID of the fold-forming guide but the portions below the said two lines of stitching are supported by the guide 5 and secured aginst folding or bending independently of the guide 5.

Various changes in the contour of the foldforming guide may be made from the strictly curved configuration, provided the upper edge thereof has a high point and sloping sides which converge with the lower edge of the collar well inside of the collar tabs H and I2.

I claim:

1. A shirt for use as a dress shirt or a sport shirt, said shirt having an attached collar comprising outer and inner facings and an interlining having substantially the same configuration and cut to provideend tabs at the front of the collar, a fold-forming guide positioned in the lower central portion of the collar intermediate one of the facing layers and the interlining and in spaced relation to said end tabs, said guide at the longitudinal center of the collar being greater in width than the width of said end tabs and adapted, when the collar is worn as a dress collar, to cooperate with said spaced end tabs to establish an upright neckband portion around the entire collar and an overlying folded portion whose width at the rear of the collar is determined by said guide, the length of said guide being such that its ends terminate at points spaced sufficiently from said end tabs to enable the front portions of the facings, when the collar is worn as a sport collar with the tabs in spaced relation, to be spread readily outwardly into a relatively flat condition.

2. A shirt for use as a dress shirt or a sport shirt, said shirt having an attached collar provided with end tabs at the front of the collar and consisting of four pieces of fabric material, namely, an outer facing layer, an interlining, an inner facing portion and a fold-forming portion positioned in the lower portion of the collar, said outer facing layer being stitched to said three other pieces of fabric material by concealed lines of stitches so that no connecting lines of stitches appear along the side edges or body of such layer when the collar is turned down in the manner of sport collars, said fold-forming portion at the longitudinal center of the collar being greater in width than the width of said end tabs and adapted, when the collar is worn as a dress collar, to cooperate with such tabs to establish an upright neck portion around the entire collar and an overlying folded portion whose width is determined by such fold-forming portion, and said fold-forming portion being adapted, when the collar is worn as a sport collar with the tabs in spaced relation, to enable the front portions of the outer facing layer to be spread and unfolded into a relatively flat condition, and a line of stitches securing the top edge of said'foldforming portion to said inner facing portion adjacently below the line of fold of the collar.

3. A shirt such as defined in claim 2, including a second line of stitches securing the top edge of said fold-forming portions to said interlining, said second line of stitches as awhole extending lengthwise of the collar and being spaced-from said first-mentioned line of stitches and a third line of stitches positioned along the central, outer longitudinal edge portion of the collar and connecting said inner facing portion to said interlining, said third line of stitches not extending through the outer facing layer and terminating short of the ends of the collar.

JULES C. LEEDS.

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