US2249615A

US2249615A - Sewing machine

Info

Publication number: US2249615A
Application number: US342520A
Authority: US
Inventors: Lutz Frederick
Original assignee: Union Special Machine Co
Current assignee: Union Special Machine Co
Priority date: 1938-12-30
Filing date: 1940-06-26
Publication date: 1941-07-15
Anticipated expiration: 1958-07-15

Description

Z/MJa/h July 15, 1941. LUTZ I 2,249,615

SEWING MACHINE Filed June 26', 1940 is Sheets-Shet 1 I I W'ITNESSES; g INVENTOR:

Lt, Frederick Luig,

ATTORNEYS. fi

July 15, 1941. v F. LUTZ 2,249,615

SEWING MACHINE Filed June 26, 1940 I 9 Sheets-Sheet 2 I WITNESSES: I N V EN TOR:

k Frederick Luij A TTORNEYS. v

July 15, 1941.

F, LUTZ SEWING MACHINE Fi led June 26, 1940 YQ She etS-Sheet 5 IN VEN TOR:

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lg MQNLW m N R m T A July 15, 1941.

F. LUTZ SEWING MAcBmE Filed June 26, 1940 SSheets-Sheet 4 FZC';" ZK

12 1? "II; W xx? v I 1': I i

. A J 'J I\ E 39 I 23 WITNESSES: INKENTOR: Z/ului' i'redencic Luij,

ATTORNEYS.

July 15, 1941. FILUTZ SEWING MACHINE Filed June 26, 1940 9 Sheets-Sheet 6' INVEIJVTOR: Fredenck Ill/1Z5,

A TTORNEYS.

I July 15, 1941. u -z 2,249,615

SEWING MACHINE Filed June 26, 1940 Sheets-Shet '7- H6" XW T 72 2 T2 T 1; L L" Q Z w Z T i M 1,

L3 L3 L3 WITNESSES: INVENTOR:

Z Frederick Luij I 7}. I BY 1 ATTORNEYS.

INVENTOR: Frederick Luij,

ATTORNEYS.

9 She ets-Sheet a F LUTZ SEWING MACK-ENE Flled June 26. 1940 HG'- Ki July 15, 1941.

July 15, 1941. F. LU TZ SEWING. MACHINF} Filed June 26-, 1940 9 Sheets-Sheet 9 V IALVENTOR; f'rederpck Lutg,

' ATTORNEYS.

Patented July 15, 1941 SEWING MACHINE Frederick Lutz, Stuttgart, Wurttemberg, Ger- Union Special Machine Company, Chicago, 111., a corporation of Illinois Application June 26, 1940, Serial No. 342,520 In Germany December 30, 1938 many, assignor to 34 Claims.

The present application is a continuation in part of a prior patent application, Serial Number 314,249 filed by me on January 17, 1940.

This invention relates to sewing machines, and has for its chief aims to make it possible to concurrently form a joining seam and an over-edge seam to unite plural superposed fabric layers, and to enable the production of such seams either independently of each other or in interlocked relation.

In the formation of compound seams of the kind referred to, it has generally been the custom heretofore to produce the two seams in separate operations. For the sake of simplicity in this prior practice, two seams of the same kind were used so as to preclude the necessity of transferring the work from one machine to another. This mode of operation, was comparatively expensive, time consuming, and, on the whole, only a makeshift.

The above drawbacks I overcome as hereinafter more fully disclosed through provision of a sewing machine of simple construction with improved cooperating stitch forming instrumentalities capable of producing a joining seam and an overedge seam concurrently. With my improved machine, the joining seam may be made to extend independently alongside the over-edge seam without any interconnection between them.

However, with the View toward adding to the strength of the juncture, the two seams may be interconnected by reciprocally locking them. This can be done by having the joining seam lock the over-edge seam, or vice versa, 1. e., by having theover-edge seam lock the joining seam. Or again, the two seams may be simultaneously mutually interlocked against the possibility of disconnection even if one or the other seam is ruptured or a portion thereof destroyed altogether. Accordingly, the two seams may be formed from chain stitches. By the action of my improved sewing machine, the locking of the joining seam by the over-edge seam is effected as a consequence of entry of the over-edge seam needle into the bottom loop of the joining seam thread whereby the latter seam will be additionally locked. As an alternative, the over-edge seam may be locked by the joining seam by passage of the joining seam needle through the opened loop of the over-edge looper whereby this loop is additionally locked. In instances where the utmost strength is desired or required, both methods of locking are resorted to. In connection with seams subjected to greatstresses, this security is of the utmost importance, for example,

in the cases of large bales such as are used in ocean transport, coal bags, as well as in the manufacture of gloves and the like. While with my improved machine, the over-edge seam is produced in the well known way, the joining seam is formed differently from the customary method by reason of the fact that the needle loop is seized by a bottom looper, and the thread of the latter seized by a second looper and placed in front of the needle at the next down stroke thereof. A single needle joining seam may be formed by two loopers like the over-edge seam, but with the difierence that the bottom loop is not carried up high and secured above the throat plate, but remains beneath the throat plate and is there penetrated by the needle. Therefore, as in the production of the over seam, no needle avoiding motion of the bottom looper is necessary. The function ordinarily resulting from the needle avoiding movement is in accordance with my invention performed by a thread manipulating implement which oscillates above the corresponding bottom looper in a horizontal or substantially horizontal plane, and, in so doing, crosses the path of the bottom looper. In order to insure seizure of the thread of the bottom looper by the implement said looper is provided on its back with a cavity or recess across which its own thread runs enroute to the seam, so that said thread may be easily and surely seized by a hook on said implement. In accordance with my invention, this implement derives its movements from a rotary actuator on the drive shaft of the sewing machine through a lever which oscillates about an axis parallel to the drive shaft and. supported on the overhanging arm of the machine frame.

In' the production of the joining seam, the over-edge looper (which has a spur or horn projection) of the second sewing mechanism in swinging upward reaches, with its spur, behind the thread extending from the needle to said seam, so that during the downward stroke of the joining seam needle, this thread is obliged to run for a time over the looper horn. As a result, the thread receives an effective tightening pull which is necessary to the proper formation of the seam. While over-edge seams have been heretofore produced in single, double and triple thread forms, as far as I am aware, single needle joining seams have been formed only in single or double thread form. Through my invention,

however, it is possible toproduce single needle joining seams from three threads by utilizing the thread manipulating element as a carrier for an additional thread which interlocks with the loops formed from the other two threads.

Other objects and attendant advantages will appear from the following detailed description of the attached drawings, in which Fig. I is a fragmentary view partly in side elevation and partly in longitudinal section, of a sewing machine conveniently embodying my invention.

Fig. II is atransverse sectional View of the machine taken as indicated by the angled arrows 11-11 in Fig. I.

Fig. III is a detail sectional view in plan taken as indicated by the angled arrows IIII1I in Fig. I.

Fig. IV is a detail cross sectional View taken. as

indicated by the angled arrows-IV-JV in Fig. I.

Fig. V is a detail view showing the main and supplemental under loopers which cooperate with individual needles in the formation of the two seams, and a portion of the mechanism by which these loopers are actuated.

Fig. VI, Sheet 3, is a fragmentary detail View in plan showing other parts of the looper actuating mechanism.

Fig. VII, Sheet 5, is a diagrammatic view showing detached joining and over-edge seams which can be concurrentlyproduced with my improved machine when arranged as shown'in the preceding figures. 7

Figs. VIII-XIII, Sl1eet 6, are views corresponding generally to Fig. I showing successive steps in the formation of the compound seam featured in Fig. VII. h

Fig. 'XIV, Sheet 5, shows a two thread compound seam such as may be produced with the machine of my invention.

Figs. XV and XVI are views like VIII and XIII showing certain steps in the formation of the seam of Fig. XIV.

Fig. XVII, Sheet 7, shows a four thread compound sea-m which may be produced in the machine.

Figs. XVIII is a view like Fig. XII showing one of the steps in the formation of the seam of Fig. XVII. V a a Fig. XIX is a detail view looking as indicated by the angled arrows XIX-XIX in Fig. XVIII.

Fig. XX, Sheet 8, shows a four thread double locked compound seam which may be formed in the machine. 7

Fig. XXI is a view like Fig. XII showing astep in the formation of the seam of Fig. XX.

Fig. XXII is a fragmentary detail view in elevation looking as indicated by the angled arrows XXIIXXII of Fig. XXI.

Fig. XXIII, Sheet 9, shows a three thread locked joining seam which may also be formed in the machine; and

Fig. XXIV is a view like Fig. X showing a step in the formation of the seam shown in Fig. XXIII. I V

As herein illustrated. my improved sewing machin has a bed I wherein is suitably journalled a horizontal drive shaft 2 from which the stitch forming and feeding mechanisms presently described, derive their movements. The stitch forming mechanism includes a vertically-reciproeating needle bar -3, which, at its lower end, carries a pair of

needles

4 and 5, arranged diagonally of the direction of feeding (indicated by the large arrow in Fig. III), said needle bar being confined to endwise reciprocation. in a head 6 atthe free end of the overhanging arm 1 of the machine frame. Suitably journalled at its ends in lugs on the'overhanging arm 1 is a shaft 8 which is actuated, through a pitman 9, from an eccentric In on the main shaft 2, and on which is mounted for independent oscillation, a depending lever ll whereof the lower end is bifurcated as shown in Fig. IV to straddle a rotary actuating cam 12 on the drive shaft 2. From Fig. III, it will be observed that at its lower end, the lever II is connected, through an adjustable horizontal link l3,

with a horizontal arm M (Fig. I) on an inclined shaft 55 which is journalled for oscillation in a bracket it secured to the machine base I, see Figs. I and IV. To the upper end of the shaft I5 is affixed an arm 27 carrying a hooked thread manipulating implement I8 which is adapted to cooperate with a main under looper l9, and the latter in turn with the needle 4 to produce the joining seam. As shown in Fig. V, the looper [9 has a recess or notch lea in its top, to clear the hook end of the implement l8, and is fixed in a carrier 23 which also supports a second or supplementary under looper 2!, said carrier being oscillatable about a horizontal shaft 22, which is inclined slightly relative to the line of feeding (see Fig. III) and also slightly relative to the'horizontal (see Fig. II) and suitably mounted in the machine base I. The means for actuating the carrier. 25 to swing the loopers l S and 2| in a ver tioal plane transversely of the direction of feeding, includes a short link 23 (Fig. V) which connects an arm 29a on said carrier with a ball arm 25 of a yoke rocker 25. As shown in Figs. I, III and IV, this rocker 28 is free to oscillate on a rock shaft 2? extending crosswise of the machine base I beneath the rotary shaft 2 and suitably journalled at its ends in fixed

bearings

28 and 29. oscillatory movements are imparted to the rocker 26 through connection of a ball arm 30 thereon by a pitman 3i with an actuating eccentric 32 on the rotary shaft 2, as best shown in Figs. I, III and VI.

Arranged to cooperate with the second under looper 2i is an overseaming looper 33 which is provided with a projection or horn 33a above its thread engaging notch for a purpose later on explained and which, in turn, coacts with the needle 5, these three instrumentalities serving to produce the over-edge seam concurrently with the formation of the main or joining seam by the needle 4 and instrumentalities l8 and L9. The overseaming looper 33 is fixed in a carrier 34 mounted for oscillation on a horizontal rock shaft 35 in the base i and having a pendant arm 36. By means of a horizontal link 37, the arm 36 of the carrier 34' is coupled with an arm 38 fast on the front 7 end of the rock shaft 27 (see Figs. I-III) ,which is oscillated, through connection of a ball arm 39 on said shaft within the yoke interval of the rocker 26, by a pitman 49 with an eccentric M on the rotary shaft 2.

The feeding mechanism of the machine comprises, as shown in Figs. I and II, a toothed four motion lower feed dog 42 which operates through openings in the horizontal work support 43 of the machine from beneath; and an upper feeding element 64 which engages the work from above over the region of its engagement by said lower feed dog. The machine is also provided with a presser foot 45 which opposes the lower feed dog 42 in the feeding in the well known way. As shown in Fig. II, the feed dog 42 is supported by a carrier'bar G6 extending forwardly from a pivotal connection with an upright rocker 41 and bifurcated at its forward end to engage a rotary feed lift cam 48 at the front end of the shaft 2.

By suitable means (not shown) within the base the rocker 41 is actuated to impart the horizontal work advancing movements to the lower feed dog 42 likewise in a well known manner. The upper feed element 44 has the form of an arcuate toothed segment at the lower end of a swinging arm 49. As shown in Fig. II, this arm 49 is fulcrumed at 50 on a collar at the lower end of an auxiliary presser bar 52 which is guided for up and down movement in the needle head 6 and pressed downward by a leaf spring 53 shown end-on in said Fig. II. By means of a short horizontal link 54, the arm 49 of the upper feed element 44 is connected to an arm 55 at the front end of the rock shaft 8. The feeding mechanism of the machine is thus generally like that featured in U. S. Patent 2,148,377 granted to Fritz Lutz on February 21, 1939, to which reference may be had for any details herein shown but not specifically referred to.

Referring, now to the seam structure exemplified in Fig. VII, it will be seen that the chain stitch joining seam J extends in parallelism alongside the over-edge seam O and is formed independently of the latter, each seam being complete in itself. The needle and looper threads of the joining seam J are designated by the letters T and T, the needle thread loop L being engaged by the looper thread loops L at the bottom of the fabric in the usual way. The needle and looper threads of the over-edge seam O are designated by the characters 'I' and T the looper thread loops L extending around the edge of the fabric (not shown) and being engaged with the needle thread loops L both at the top and the bottom of the fabric as is likewise characteristic of such seams.

, The operation of the machine in the formation of the compound seam shown in Fig. VII is as follows: In Fig. VIlI, the loopers l9 and 2| are fully advanced toward the right on their active stroke with the looper l9 holding the loop L of the thread T of the needle 4, while the

needles

4 and 5 are still rising and the implement H3 is about to engage the thread T of said looper. In Fig. IX the loopers l9 and 2| are retiring leftward, and the implement i8 is moving downward and holding the thread loop L' of the looper IS, the overseaming looper 33 having already reached its highest position, and the

needles

4 and 5 started in their descent. In Fig. X, the loopers I9 and 2| are still retiring and'have released the needle thread loop L which is being drawn tight and made fast at the bottom of the fabric through interception of the needle thread T by the projection 33a on the overseaming looper 33 as the-

needles

4 and 5 continue in their descent. Fig. XI shows an advanced stage of the step started in Fig. X with the needle thread loop L more fully drawn up, with the

needles

4 and 5 further down in their descent, with the implement I8 moved to open up the looper thread loop L, and with the overseaming looper 33 retiring and about to release the needle thread T.

Fig. XII shows the

needles

4 and 5 still further ing looper 33 is in its highest position with its notch inward beyond the needle 5 so that the loop of the thread (not shown) associated with the looper 2|, after being drawn about the edge of the fabric, is presented to said needle 5 for subsequent penetration thereby in the usual manner. The overseaming looper 33 thus participates in the formation of both the joining seam and the over-edge seams. The above described cycle is continuously repeated during the operation of the machine after each shift of the fabric by the feed dog 42.

The joining seam J' shown in Fig. XIV is formed from the needle thread T only, and the over-edge seam 0' from the needlethread T only, with incidental interlocking of the loops L of the thread T with the loops L of the thread T at the bottom of the fabric. To pro: duce the seam O, non-thread-carrying spreaders lb and 2| b (Figs. XV and XVI) are substi tuted in the holder 20 of the machine for the loopers |9 and 2| previously used, said spreaders being respectively provided with

thread engaging notches

56 and 51 in their outer ends. A modified form of implement I8!) is also substituted for the implement l8 previously used, having an elongated horizontal terminal portion 58 with a lateral thread engaging projection 59 at its end and an undercut notch 60 at the juncture of said terminal portion with the shank of said modified implement. In Fig. XV (which corresponds to Fig. VIII) the spreaders |9b and Zlb are in advanced position and holding the needle thread loops L and L while the

needles

4 and 5 are above the work and still rising. The im-v plement |8b is also in its inward or advanced position with its end 58 pressed through th needle thread loop L, with its terminal portion 59 engaging one leg of said loop to distend the loop L leftward, the needle thread loop L being held out of the way by the spreader 2 lb. It will also be observed that the overseaming looper 33 has engaged the needle thread loop L in readiness to carry it up around the edge of the work and present it to the needle 5. As the spreaders I91), 2 lb subsequently recede, the loops L and L are eventually released, the first to the action of the overseaming looper 33 for the purpose above explained, and the latter to the implement IBb. Under the pull of the thread T by reason of its being arrested by the end of the overseaming looper 33 as the needle 4 begins its descent, the loop L is carried up into the notch 60 of the implement I81) so as to be held temporarily distended as shown in Fig. XVI so that both

needles

4, 5, may pass through it. In this connection, it is to be understood that the several stitch forming instrumentalities move through intermediate positions corresponding to Figs. X, XI and XII, with the result that the seams J and O are concurrently produced and at the same time interlockedrby repetitions of the cycle just described.

The J and O seams shown in Fig. XVII, like those of Fig. VII, are respectively formed from two threads T, T, and T T with the needle loops L of the thread T engaged by the looper loops L of the thread T, and with the latter loops locked by the loops L of the needle thread T at the bottom of the fabric. To produce the seam of Fig. XVII, I employ the original thread-carrying loopers l9 and 2| in conjunction with the modified substitute implement |8b. In Fig. XVIII (which corresponds to Fig. XII) the

needles

4 and 5 are moving downward and both about to pass into the loop L of the looper thread T which is being held distended by the been omitted in order to avoid confusion and complication. V

r The compound seam construction of Fig. XX is like-the seam of Fig; XVII except in that the over-edge loops L of the thread T are extended to engage the loops L of the needle thread T as well as with the loops L of the needle thread T Accordingly, the two seams J O are inter-.

locked both above and beneath the fabric. To form the seam of Fig. XX, I employ the

instrumenta'lities

4, 5, I812, I9 and 2| of Fig. XVIII in conjunction with a modified substitute overseaming looper 331: in which the notch is shortened to carry the over-edge loop L beyond the needle 4, and which is provided with a pair of spaced spur or horn projections BI and 62 to respectively intercept the needle threads T and T and thereby assistin drawing up previouslyformed stitches. There is also provided on the work support of the machine a stationary element 63 whichoperates to spread the over-edge loop L as it is carried up by the looper 330. In Fig. XXI (which corresponds to Fig. in), the loopers l9 and 2| are in retired position, while the overseaming looper 330 is in its uppermost and innermost position holding'the loop L distended for passage of the descending needles 4 and- 5 through it. In their further descent, it will be seen that the

needles

4 and 5 will also pass through the loop L of the looper thread T held open by the implement l8b. Here again it is to be understood that the several cooperating stitch forming instrumentalities move successively through positions corresponding to Figs. VIII-XIII incident to each stitch forming cycle.

The seam exemplified in Fig. XXIII is a single locked chain stitch joining seam. In this seam, the loops L of the needle thread T are engaged at the bottom of the fabric by the loops L of the looper thread T, and locked-by a second looper thread T the loops L of which pass through said needle thread loops and interlock with the first mentioned looper thread loops L. Toform the seam of Fig. XXIII, I employ, as shown in Fig. XXIV, only the needle 4 and the mainlooper l9, and a substitute auxiliary thread carrying implement IBd, (which moves in front of the needle 4) in place of the implement l8 of Figs. I-XIII, for controlling the thread T. As shown, the implement l'8d has a horizontal portion 58a, like the implement ,l 8b, of .Fig. XVI with an under-cutnotch 60a, but instead of having a lateral projection at itsehd. is formed with two spaced eyes64 and 65 through which the thread T reeves. In Fig. XXIV, (which corresponds to Fig..XI) the implement 18d cooperates withthe main .l'ooper l9,.that is to say, it passes into the threadloopf L thrown out by said main looper and after the latter retires, holds said loop in its notch. 66a with a loop L. of the thread 'I. projected therethrough so that the needle 4 will" penetrate it on its succeeding downward stroke as indicated indot-anded'ash lines, and in so doing will pass to one side of both limbs or legs of the loop L In the formation of the seam ofFig. )QIIII, the overedge looper 33 operates onlyto intercept the needle thread T above the work support for the purpose of drawing up the previously formed needle thread loop as clearly shown in Fig. XXIV.

Having thus described my invention, I claim:

1. In a sewing machine, stitching means for forming a seam to join two superposed fabric edges; another stitching means'to form an overedge seam concurrently with the formation of the joining seam; and auxiliary means operative to interlock the threads of the two seams incident to their concurrent formation, in such manner that rupture or failure of the one will not affect the integrity of the other.

2'. In a sewing machine, a fabric-penetrating needle and a looper to cooperate therewith in the production of a seam for uniting two superposed fabric edges; a second fabric-penetrating needle and a looper to cooperate therewith to concurrently form a seam around the fabric edges; auxiliary thread manipulating implements associated with the needles and loopers aforesaid; and: actuating means for said implements whereby the latter are caused to engage one or more of the seam forming threads so as to effect interlocking of the" thread loops of one seam with the thread loops of the other seam.

3. In a sewing machine, a work support; a needle movable through the work support in forming a seam to join a plurality of superposed fabric edges; a looper for seizing the thread of the needle; an implement with a projection for seizing the thread of the looper and presenting it to the needle to lock the stitch beneath the work support; and a second needle and an additional looper meansfor concurrently forming an over-edge seam independent of said joiningseam.

4'. In a sewing machine, a work support; a needle movable through the work support in forming a seam to join a plurality of superposed fabric edges; a looper for seizing the thread of the needle; an implement with a hook for seizing the thread of the looper and presenting it to the needle beneath the work support; a carrier for the looper; and a second needle and an additional looper means for producing an over-edge seamconcurrently with the formation of the joining seam, such meansincluding an element supported by the carrier aforesaid.

5. In a sewing machine, a work support; a needle movable through the work support in forming aseam to join a plurality of superposed fabric edges; an under looper for seizing the thread of the needle; an implement having a hookend for seizing the thread of said looper and presenting it to the needle beneath the work support; means for producing an over-edge seam concurrently with the formation of the joining seam, said means including a second needle with coacting under and over loopers; and a common thefabric edges; and a manipulator device movable crosswise of the path of the looper to engage the loop of the latter and present it tothe first mentioned needle to lock the stitch beneath the work support. I I

7. In a sewing machine, a Work support with an overhanging arm; a rotary shaft journalled beneath the work support; a needle bar confined to vertical reciprocation in the arm and carrying a needle to pass down through the Work support; a looper swingable in a vertical plane for cooperation with the needle beneath the work support in stitch formation; an implement movable in a horizontal plane crosswise of the path of the looper beneath the work support to engage the looper loop and present it to the needle; and means for actuating said implement including a lever fulcrumed on the overhanging arm of the machine frame, a link connecting the lever with the implement, and a rotary actuator on the shaft for oscillating the lever.

8. In a sewing machine, a work support with an overhanging arm; a rotary shaft journalled beneath the work support; a needle bar confined to vertical reciprocation in the arm and carrying a needle to pass down through the work support; a looper swingable in a vertical plane to cooperate with the needle beneath the work support in stitch formation; an implement movable in a horizontal plane crosswise of the path of the looper beneath the work support to engage the looper loop and present it to the needle, said implement having a hook end adapted to swing into a recess in the looper across which the looper thread extends; and means for actuating said implement including a lever fulcrumed on the overhanging arm of the machine frame, a link connecting the lever with the implement, and a rotary actuator on the shaft for oscillating the lever.

9. In a sewing machine, a worksupport with an overhanging arm; a drive shaft journalled beneath the work support; a needle bar confined to vertical reciprocation inthe arm and carrying a needle to pass down through the work support; feeding mechanism including an upper feed member fulcrumed above the work support; a rock shaft journalled on the overhanging arm; operating connections between the rock shaft and the feed member; a looper swingable in a vertical plane to cooperate withthe needle beneath the work support to form seam stitches; an implement movable in a horizontal'plane crosswise in the path of the looper beneath the work support to engage the looper loop and present it to the needle; and means for actuating said implement including a lever fulcrumed for independent swinging movement on the rock shaft aforesaid, a link connecting the lever with the implement, and a rotary actuator on the drive shaft for oscillating the lever.

10. In a sewing machine, a thread carrying needle and a looper to cooperate therewith in stitch formation; and an overseaming :looper having a projection movable intothe path of the needle during its fabric penetrating stroke to intercept the needle thread for the purpose of causing the previously formed stitch to be drawn 11. In a sewing machine, a work support; a pair of needles concurrently movable down through the work support; a looper to cooperate with one of the needles beneath the work support informing a joining seam through superposed fabric layers adjacent the edges thereof;

an overseaming looper swingable in a vertical plane to cooperate with the other needle in concurrently forming an over-edge seam around the fabric edges, said over-edge looper being operative during its upward movement to engage behind the thread of the joining seam needle; and a projection on the overseaming looper effective during downward movement of said needle to temporarily restrain the joining seam needle thread and thereby cause the previously formed needle thread loop of the joining seam to be drawn up.

12. In a sewing machine, a needle and an under looper to cooperate therewith in the formation of a main or joining seam; and a second needle and an overseaming looper to cooperate therewith 'in the concurrent formation of a parallel over-edge seam, said overseaming looper having a projection which, when said looper is moved to present a thread loop for penetration by the second needle, intercepts the thread of the first needle during its fabric penetrating stroke for the purpose of drawing up a previously formed stitch of the main or joining seam.

13. In a sewing machine, stitching means for forming a joining seam adjacent the edgesof a plurality of superposed fabric layers from a single thread; stitching means for concurrently forming an over seam around the fabric edges likewise from a single thread; and thread manipulating means operative to interlock the two seams incident to their concurrent formation.

'14. In a sewing machine, stitching means for forming a joining seam adjacent to the edges of a plurality of superposed fabric layers from multiple threads; stitching means for concurrently forming an over seam around the fabric edges likewise from multiple threads, and a forming a joining seam adjacent the edges of a plurality of superposed fabric layers and an over seam around the fabric edges; a joining seam needle and a cooperating thread carrying looper; an over-edge seaming needle; and thread manipulating means determining passage of the over-edge seam needle through the looper thread loop, and also passage of the joining seam needle through said looper thread loop for locking of the joining seam by the over seam.

16. In a sewing machine for concurrently forming a joining seam adjacent the edges of a plurality of superposed fabric layers and an over-edge seam around the fabric edges, a joining seam needle; acooperating thread carrying looper; an over-edge seam needle; an overseaming thread carrying looper; and thread manipu lating means determining passage of the overedge seam needle through the looper thread loop, and the joining seam needle concurrently through the loop presented by the overseaming looper to the over-edge seam needle, thereby to lock, the over-edge seam by the joining seam.

1'7. In a sewing machine for concurrently forming a joining seam adjacent the edges of a plurality of superposed fabric layers and an over-edge seam around the fabric edges, a joining seam needle and cooperating looper; an edge seaming needle and a cooperating overseaming looper; and a thread manipulator cooperative with the first mentioned needle determining passage of the needle of one seam through loops of the other seam for the purpose of interlocking the two seams.

18. In a sewing machine, a fabric penetrating needle and a looper to cooperate therewith in the formation of a main or joining seam; a second fabric penetrating needle and an overseaming looper to cooperate therewith in the concurrent formation of aiparallel over-edge seam; and a hooked manipulating implement operative to draw out the thread loop of the first mentioned looper so that both needles may pass through it for the purpose of interlocking the two concurrently formed seams at the under side of the fabric.

19. In a sewing machine, a fabric penetrating needle and a looper to cooperate therewith in the formation of a main or joining seam; and a second fabric penetrating needle and an overseaming looper to cooperate therewith in the concurrent formation ofa parallel over-edge seam, said overseaming looper being operative on its active stroke to draw a thread loop from the underside of the fabric and around the fabric edge to present it for penetration by-both needles at the top side of the fabric.

20. The'combination according to claim 19, in which the overseaming looper has projections which, when said looper is actuated to present the thread loop to the needles, move into the path of the needles during the fabric penetrating strokes of the latter to intercept the respective needle threads for the purpose of drawing up previously formed stitches of the two seams.

'21. In a sewing machine, a thread carrying needle and a thread carrying looper to cooperate therewith in the formation of a main or joining seam; and a second thread carrying needle and an overseaming looper to cooperate therewith in concurrently forming a parallel over-edge seam, said overseaming looper being operative to carry the thread loop of the second mentioned needle from the under side of the fabric and around the fabric edge and present such loop to both needles for penetration at the top side of the fabric and interlocking of the two concurrently formed seams.

22. Ina sewing machine, a thread carrying needle and a thread carrying under looper to cooperate therewith in the formation of a chain stitch seam; and an auxiliary thread carrying under looper adapted to penetrate the thread loop of the first looper after the last mentioned loop has been thrust into the needle thread loop, and to present its own loop for penetration by the needle, so that the needle thread loop is interlocked with the thread loop of the first mentioned looper at the back of the fabric.

23. The combination according to claim 22, including an over-seaming looper having a projection movable into the path of the needle to intercept the needle thread for the purpose or drawing up a previously formed stitch.

24. In a sewing machine, a thread-carrying fabric-penetrating needle and a cooperating instrumentality for producing a seam to join plural superposed fabric layers inward of their edges; a second thread-carrying fabric-penetrating needle and a cooperating instrumentality for producing a parallel overedge seam around said fabric edges; means for actuating said needles and cooperating instrumentalities in timed relation to determine concurrent formation of laterally adjacent stitches in the two seams; auxiliary thread-manipulating means; and mechaduring each stitch-forming cycle to cause interlocking of the thread loops of the two seams.

25. In a chain-stitch sewing machine, a work support; a thread-carrying needle movable through the work support; a looper to cooperate with the needle beneath the work support in producing a seam to join a plurality of superposed fabric layers inward of their edges; a second thread-carrying needle and means to cooperate therewith in forming an overedge seam to bind in the fabric edges; an auxiliary threadmanipulating implement; and means operative during each stitch-forming cycle to move said manipulating implement crosswise of the path of the looper to engage the loop of the latter and present it to the second needle thereby to lock the stitch beneath the work support.

26. In a chain-stitch sewing machine, a threadcarrying fabric-penetrating needle and a looper to cooperate therewith in stitch formation beneath the fabric; thread arresting means; and means operative during each stitch-forming cycle to thrust said arresting means into the path of the needle above the fabric as the needle de- 'scends to arrest the needle thread and thereby cause drawing up of a previously formed stitch.

27. In a sewing machine, stitching means for forming from a single thread, a joining seam adjacent the edges of a plurality of superposed fabric layers; stitching means for concurrently forming an overedge seam around the fabric thread-manipulating means; and means operative during each stitch-forming cycle to actuate the thread-manipulating means to effect interlocking of the thread loops of the two seams.

28. In a sewing machine, stitching means for forming a joining seam adjacent the edges of a plurality of superposed fabric layers from multiple threads; stitching means for concurrently forming an overedge seam around the fabric edges likewise from multiple threads an auxiliary thread-manipulating implement; and means operative during each stitch-forming cycle to actuate said implement and thereby cause manipulation of one of the threads to effect interlocking of the fabric-penetrating thread loops of the two seams.

29. In a sewing machine for concurrently forming a joining seam adjacent the edges of a plurality of superposed fabric layers, and an overedge seam around the fabric edges, a threadcarrying joining-seam needle and a cooperating thread-carrying looper; an overedge seaming needle and auxiliary thread-manipulating means; and means operative during each stitch-forming cycle to actuate said thread-manipulating means to determine passage of the overedge seaming needle through the looper-thread loop, and also passage of the joining-seam needle through said looper-thread loop so that the joining seam is locked by the overedge seam.

30. In a chain-stitch sewing machine for concurrently forming a joining seam adjacent the edges of a plurality of superposed fabric layers, and an overedge seam around the fabric edges, a thread-carrying joining-seam needle; a cooperating thread-carrying underlooper; a threadcarrying overedge seam needle; an overedge thread-carrying looper; auxiliary thread-manipulating means; and means operative during each stitch-forming cycle to actuate said thread-manipulating means to determine passage of the overedge seam needle through th underlooper thread loop beneath the fabric, and the joining seam needle through the loop presented by the overedge looper to the overedge seam needle above the fabric, thereby to lock the overedge seam by the joining seam.

31. In a chain-stitch sewing machine, a thread-carrying fabric-penetrating needle and a non-thread-carrying underlooper to cooperate therewith in producing a single-thread seam to join plural superposed fabric layers; a second thread-carrying fabric-penetrating needle, a second non-thread-carrying looper and a nonthread-carrying overedge looper cooperating to produce a single-thread parallel overedge seam around the fabric edges; means for actuating said needles and loopers in timed relation to determine concurrent formation of laterally adjacent stitches in the two seams; an auxiliary thread-manipulating implement; and means for actuating said implement during each stitchforming cycle to draw out the thread loop of the first needle for entry thereinto of the second needle to determine interlocking of the thread loops of one seam with the thread loops of the other seam.

32. In a chain-stitch sewing machine, a thread-carrying fabric-penetrating needle and a thread-carrying underlooper cooperating in the production of a two-thread seam for joining plural superposed fabric layers; a second threadcarrying fabric-penetrating needle, a second thread-carrying looper, and a non-thread-carrying overedge looper cooperating in the production of a parallel overedge seam around the fabric edges concurrently with the production of the first seam; an auxiliary thread-manipulating implement; and means for actuating said implement during each stitch-forming cycle to draw out the thread loop of the first mentioned looper so that said loop will be entered by the first needle as well as by the second needle beneath the fabric to effect interlocking of the needle thread loops.

33. In a chain-stitch sewing machine, a thread-carrying fabric-penetrating needle and a thread-carrying underlooper cooperating in the production of a two-thread main seam for joining plural superposed fabric edges; a second thread-carrying fabric-penetrating needle, a second thread-carrying looper, and a non-threadcarrying overedge looper cooperating in the production of a parallel overedge seam concurrently with production of the first seam; means on the overedge looper operative during each stitchforming cycle to draw' out the loop of the second mentioned underlooper so that the latter loop is entered by both needles above th fabric to there eifect an interlock between the needle thread loops; an auxiliary thread-manipulating implement; and means for actuating said implement during each stitch-forming cycle to draw out the thread loop of th first mentioned looper beneath the fabric so that said loop will be there entered by both needles to effect interlocking of the needle thread loops at the underside of the fabric.

34. In a chain-stitch sewing machine, a thread-carrying fabric-penetrating needle; a thread-carrying underlooper; an auxiliary thread-manipulating implement with an eye for guiding a third thread and with a loop-restraining notch rearward of said eye; means for actuating the needle, the looper and the thread-manipulating implement in timed relation to determine a stitch-forming cycle in which the looper thrusts a loop of its thread into the needle thread loop below the fabric, the implement next passes into the thread loop of the looper to engage the latter loop in its notch and at the same time thrust a loop of its own thread through the looper-thread loop, so that on subsequent descent of the needle, the latter passes into the loop of the third thread to one side of both legs of the looper-thread loop.

FREDERICK LUTZ.