US2145346A - Crimped or waved yarn and fabric containing such yarn - Google Patents

Description

Jan. 3l, 1939. H. DREYFUS 2,145,346

CRIMPED OR WAVED YARN AND FABRIC CONTAINING SUCH YARN Filed Jan. 9, 1937 55 ye/wel? smi rcHEa CEI. L `05E ACETHTE VAR/V.

ODUELED 5 ZF.

R/GHT- HAND CO/IPOS/ TE VAR/V atented `lan. 31, 1939 PATENT OFFICE CRIMPED OR VVAVED YARN AND FABRIC CONTAINING SUCH YARN Henry Dreyfus, London, England Application `lanixary 9,

1937, Serial No. 119.733

ln Great Britain February 21, 1936 8 Claims.

rics, however, as by knitting' or weaving, the tension imparted to the yarns in the fabric-forming operation has a tendency to pull out or straighten the crimps in the filaments oi the yarns with the result that the voluminosity of the yarns is impaired and they do not impart in full to the fabric the desirable characteristics referred to above.

Crimped continuous lament yarns or crimped yarns having a continuous filament basis are particularly prone to lose voluminosity on being subjected to weaving, knitting or like tensions, since the component laments of the yarns have an originally straight structure to which there tends to be a reversion if the yarns are maintained in a straightened condition for any length of time.

It is an object of the invention to ensure that voluminosity shall be transmitted to fabrics formed of voluminous yarn.

In the accompanying drawing,

Figure l shows diagranimatically one mode of carrying out my invention, and

Figure 2 shows a further mode of carrying out my invention.

The yarn according to the present invention comprises a yarn of filaments or fibres to which crimps or Waves have been imparted, doubled -'lo with at least one yarn of uncrimped filaments,

e. g., continuous articial iilaments. When such composite yarn is converted into a fabric the uncrimped component of the yarn resists the tendency of the tension applied during a fabric form- -n ing operation to straighten the crimps in the other component of the yarn so that the full, voluminous character and springy qualities imparted to such component by the crimps are transmitted to the fabric. v

The components of the composite yarn according to the invention may comprise like materials or may be of different materials in order to enable efiects such as cross-dyed eiects to be obtained. Thus the uncrimped yarn may be of one material. e. g.. a natural material such as cotton,

wool or silk, while the crimped yarn may be of another material, e. g., an articial material suc-h as regenerated cellulose or an organic derivative of cellulose such as cellulose acetate; or vice versa. Woolor cotton-like eiiects may still be obtained by dispensing with wool or cotton yarns and employing yarns containing artilicial staple fibres, e. g., staple fibres of cellulose acetate of length appropriate to that of the iibres which they are to resemble. A particularly useful and attractive yarn may be formed from component yarns ci' cellulose acetate, the uncrimped yarn being of ordinary continuous filaments and the voluminous yarn being of crimped filaments.

A'pleasing eiect may be obtained by employing as the component yarns artificial yarns having different characteristics. Thus bright and dull articial yarns (e. g., of cellulose acetate or other organic derivative of cellulose) may be employed together to give a contrasting effect independent of shade or color, the uncrimped yarn for example being dull while the more prominent crimped yarn is bright, or vice versa. Again the uncrimped yarn or the crimped yarn or both may be in the dyed state prior to doubling, the dierent components being dyed similarly or in contrasting colors, as desired. When the uncrimped component of the composite yarn itself comprises two or more yarns doubled together the individual yarns may be of different colors. As mentioned above the component yarns of the composite yarn according to the invention may be made of or may comprise filaments of any suitable material, for example artificial material such as cellulose acetate or other organic derivative of cellulose. Examples of other organic derivatives of cellulose are other esters of cellulose such as cellulose formate, cellulose propionate or butyrate, or cellulose ethers such as ethyl and benzyl cellulose. The component yarns may, however, contain regenerated cellulose. as for example viscose, cuprammoniurn and nitrocellulose articial silk, or completely saponified cellulose acetate or other cellulose ester artificial silk, or they maybe composed of or may comprise filaments of partially saponied cellulose acetate or other ester of cellulose. The yarns may have undergone a stretching process during their production or subsequent to their production so as to impart a high tenacity thereto. The stretching operation may be eliected in the presence of an agent adapted to facilitate such stretching, as is described, for example, in U. S. application S. No. 573,424, filed November 6, 1931. Furthermore, such stretchedyarn may have been subjected to a subsequent saponifying operation as described, for example, in U. S. Patents Nos. 2,053,766, 2,091,967, and 2,092,004, or to a subsequent shrinking operation as described, for example, in U. S. Patent No. 2,058,422 or both.

In the case of the voluminous yarn the stretching will, of course, be carried out before imparting any crimp or crinkle to the material.

The crimp or crinkle` may have been imparted to the component filaments of the voluminous yarn by any suitable process, for example by means of crimping rollers, the crimp imparted by such rollers preferably being set immediately after or during the crimping operation, as for example by treatment with steam; by twisting, setting and untwisting of the yarn as a whole (here again the setting may be brought about by a treatment with steam, e. g., in the manner described in British Patent No. 424,880, or by the application of a setting agent to a portion of the yarn which is actually receiving twist, as described in British Patent No. 442,073) by treating yarns of cellulose acetate and similar substances which are Sensitive to the action of hot water substantially Without tension with hot aqueous liquors, for example hot dilute soap solutions, this process being specially applicable to the treatment of cellulose acetate and similar filaments of substantially at cross-section; by applying a similar aqueousl treatment to at filaments of cellulose acetate or other organic derivatives of cellulose containing para-dichlorbenzene or other plasticizing agent for the cellulose derivative as described in U. S. application S. No. 83,274 filed June 3, 1936; or by any combination of these processes, in which connection reference is made to U. S. applications S. Nos. 135,490, filed April 7, 1937, and 137,043, filed April 15, 1937, corresponding to British Patents- Nos. 474,401 and 474,402. The crimp may have been xed in the materials, for example by the process described in U. S. application S. No.

71,458 filed March 28, 1936. The crimped continuous filaments produced in these manners may either be used in association as a yarn or may be cut or otherwise converted into staple fibres which are spun into yarn either alone or in admixture with other filaments.

The doubling of a length of the crimped yarn produced, for example in the manner described above, with a shorter length of yarn of uncrimped filaments may be effected in any convenient manner, e. g., continuously with the crimping of the crimped component or as a separate and subsequent operation to the crimping. Care should be taken to avoid applying to the crimped component during the doubling operation an excessive tension which might tend to pull out the crimps, since such tension would defeat the object of the invention. The crimped component is, of course, fed to the point of do bling at a greater rate than the uncrimped component but should not be fed to such point too quickly since, in this case, there would be danger of the crimped component forming so loose a spiral round the uncrimped component that it would tend to slip along the length of the uncrimped component, and especially so when the uncrimped component contains continuous laments. If it is desired to feed the crimped component at a much higher rate than the uncrimped component. the above difficulty may be overcome by a further doubling operation in which a second uncrimped component is doubled with the already doubled crimped component and uncrimped component 'to serve as a binding yarn.

The following are given as examples of composite yarns produced according to the present invention, and such yarns are illustrated diagrammatically in the accompanying drawing.

Example 1 A cellulose acetate yarn of 450 denier is twisted to ahigh degree with left-hand twist, passed through a steam chamber while twisted and subsequently untwisted in part, leaving about six turns per inch of left-hand twist in the yarn. The yarn crimped in this manner is doubled with six turns of right-hand twist with a shorter length of continuous filament yarn of cellulose acetate, the filaments of which have been stretched in the presence of dioxane so that the total denier of the yarn is reduced to 55 denier.

Figure 1 illustrates this method of carrying out the invention.

Eample 2 The composite yarn produced in accordance with Example 1 is further doubled with six turns of right-hand twist with a second continuous filament yarn of 55 denier similar to the continuous filament yarn referred to in Example 1.

Figure 2 illustrates this method of carrying out the invention.

The composite yarns according to the invention may be used in any fabric forming operation, e. g., knitting, weaving, braiding or the like, and the presence of the uncrimped component in such yarns enables the tension ordinarily applied in such fabric forming operations to be applied to the composite yarn according to the present invention withoutl the danger of pulling out of the crimps in the filaments of the yarn and so destroying the valuable properties of the yarn.

Having described my invention what I desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. A composite yarn comprising a yarn of filaments to which crimps have been imparted, doubled with at least one shorter length of yarn extending throughout its length and comprising uncrimped filaments, the crimped yarn forming a spiral round the uncrimped yarn.

2. A composite yarn comprising a yarn of crimped filaments of cellulose acetate doubled with at least one shorter length of yarn extendingl throughout its length and comprising uncrimped filaments, the cellulose acetate yarn l forming a spiral round the uncrimped yarn.

3. A composite 'yarn comprising a yarn of crimped filaments of cellulose acetate doubled with at least one shorter length of uncrimped filaments of cellulose acetate extending throughout its length, the crimped yarn forming a spiral round the uncrimped yarn.

4. A composite yarn comprising a yarn of crimped filaments doubled with a doubled yarn, at least one component of the doubled yarn comprising uncrimped filaments of cellulose acetate and being of shorter length than the yarn of crimped filaments so that the crimped yarn forms a spiral round the doubled yarn, all of the components of said composite yarn extending throughout its length.

5. A composite yarn formed by doubling together at least two components, one of which is a yarn of uncrimped filaments and the other a longer length of yarn of crimped filaments, the latter component forming a spiral round the former component and extending throughout its length, and doubling the yarn so formed .with at least one binding yarn of uncrimped filaments.

6. A composite yarn comprising a crimped yarn of laments of cellulose acetate doubled with at yeast one shorter length of yarn of uncrimped laments in a manner such that the former component forms a spiral round the latter cornponent and extends throughout its length, the component yarns being bound together by at least one further yarn of uncrimped laments.

7. A composite yarn comprising a yarn of laments to which crimps have been imparted doubled with at least one shorter length of yarn of uncrmped cellulose acetate laments which have been stretched prior to the doubling operation, the crimped yarn forming a' spiral round the uncrimped yarn, the crimped and uncrimped yarns extending throughout the length of the composite yarn.

8. A composite yarn formed by doubling together a yarn of crimped laments of cellulose acetate and at least one shorter length of yarn of uncrimped filaments of the same material, the

former component forming a spiral round the latter component, and doubling the yarn so formed, in the same direction with at least one other yarn of the same material, all of the components of said composite yarn extending throughout its length.

. HENRY DREYFUS.

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