US2199428A - Textile product - Google Patents

Description

yMay 7, 1940.

-D. FlNLAYsoN ETAI. K 2,199.428

TEXTILE PRODUCT Filed Aug. 20, 1937 Patented May 7, 1940 UNITED STATES TEXTILE PRODUCT Donald Finlayson and `l'ames Frederick Levers, Spondon, near Derby, England, assignors to Celanese Corporation of America, a corporation of Delaware Application August 20, 1937, Serial No. 160,066 In Great Britain September 29, 1936 22 Claims.

This invention relatesto improvements in textile products and is more particularly concerned with new composite yarns and with fabrics or other materials made of or containing such yarns.

It is well known that wool yarns are considerably more voluminous in character than cotton yarns and this is probably due at least in part to the fact that the fibres of cotton are considerably straighter than wool fibres and are comparatively short in length so that it is necessary to insert a substantial amount of twist in a cotton yarn in order to obtain a coherent product, which reduces the voluminosity of such yarn. Moreover, wool has a much greater elasticity both in the dry and wet state than has cotton.

For some purposes the voluminous andv elastic character of wool yarns presents considerable advantages and a great deal of research has been directed in recent years to the production of articial yarns which have the voluminous character of wool yarns. The results obtained, however, have not been entirely satisfactory since the products do not compare favourably with wool as regards their properties of voluminosity, elasticity and non-crushability. For this reason many socalled artificial wools hitherto marketed have contained substantial proportions of natural wool, e. g. 50-75% of natural wool.

It has now been discovered that products which have a very high degree of voluminosity and elasticity may be produced by associating a bundle, cr yarn having at most only a low degree of twist, of crinkled filaments of cellulose acetate (as heremafter referred to) with a yarn having a relatively high twist, i. e. a twist of the order of that necessary to impart to the yarn the capacity of shrinking on treatment with hot aqueous liquors. The yarn of high twist is hereinafter. referred to as the basic yarn of the composite product. It is important, in order to obtain the best results, that the yarn or bundle of crinkled laments of cellulose acetate (hereinafter referred to as the voluminous component) should be present in preponderating proportions in the final product. Preferably, therefore, the basic yarn should constitute as low a proportion as 30%, 20% or even less of the total denier of the composite product.

Crinkled filaments of cellulose acetate are obtained by subjecting bundles or yarns of cellulose acetate filaments, especially such as comprise filaments of flat or nearly flat cross-section, to the action of hot or boiling water, or preferably hot or boiling dilute soap solutions. The flat type Vof filament is preferably produced by spinning a cellulose acetate solution in a normal way into an evaporative atmosphere but using a concentration of cellulose acetate in the acetone or other volatile solvent'lower than is customarily used to produce the bulbous type of lament. However, the flat type of filament may also be produced by spinning the cellulose acetate solution into an evaporative atmosphere which contains a high concentration of solvent for cellulose acetate near the spinning jets. Alternatively, or in addition, the spinning solution may contain paradichlorbenzene or other plasticisng agent as described in British Patent No. 459,781. Other things being equal, a higher degree of crinkling, and therefore of voluminosity, is obtained with the higher lament deniers. The crinkling of the cellulose acetate filaments may be effected, for example, by treating such filaments, e. g. in the form of hanks of yarn, with hot aqueous liquors, and especially with hot dilute soap solutions, without tension so y as to develop the crinkle in the filaments. The crinkle developed by the above processes is irregular in character.

Again, crinkle is imparted to cellulose acetate filaments by processes such as those described in U. S. Patents Nos. 2,089,198 and 2,089,199 and British Patent No. 464,981. These processes consist, broadly, in imparting a twist to the yarns, setting the twist in the yarns, e. g. by the action of steam, and thereafter untwisting the yarns. Preferably the operation is effected with a false twisting device. Such processes impart a spiral crinkle to the filaments. If desired the crinkling of the filaments may be accomplished by a combination of the two methods described above, e. g. a yarn or bundle of fiat filaments of cellulose acetate may be subjected to one of the processes of U. S. Patents Nos. 2,089,198 and 2,089,199. and British Patent No. 464,981 and, either before or after such treatment, subjected to the action of hot aqueous liquors.

The iilaments in the voluminous component may be continuous, as is normal in the production of cellulose acetate artificial silk, or may be discontinuous, provided that the length ofthe staple in the product is not so short as to necessitate a relatively high degree of twist to produce a coherent product. A staple length of -8'or 10 inches or more may be used but preferably the staple is as long as possible, e. g. of the order of 18 inches.

The basic yarn may be of cellulose acetate or any other suitable material for example of any other organic derivative of cellulose, or it may be of the regenerated cellulose type, e. g. viscose or cuprammonium silk or yarn obtained by complete saponiiication of cellulose acetate materials, or it may be a partially saponifled cellulose acetate material or may consist of a yarn of normal cellulose acetate which has been subjected to a process of acetylation as described, for example, in British Patents Nos. 448,816 and 448,917. Or, again,l the basic yarn may be of cotton, wool or natural silk. For reasons which are set out below it is especially advantageous to `employ as the basic yarn a product of high tenacity, for example a cellulose acetate yarn which has been stretched considerably so as to impart to it a high tenacity, or the product obtained by partial or complete saponication of such yarn. By employing a yarn of considerable strength as the basic yarn it is possible to associate with it relatively large quantities of the voluminous component, and thus increase the total voluminosity of the product, whilst conserving the necessary strength for the product considered as a whole. It is frequently advantageous, especially in the case of cellulose acetate materials and in the case when very high twists are being inserted, to insert the twist in the basic yarn of the composite product while the yarn is under the influence of steam or hot water as described in U. S. Patents Nos. 2,088,628, 2,088,587 and 2,089,191.

The doubling twist used to associate the voluminous component with the basic yarn should not be so high as to reduce substantially the voluminosity. As a result of the doubling operation the basic yarn either receives additional twist or has some twist removed therefrom depending on the relative directions of the twist in the basic yarn and of the doubling twist. For

this reason the twist in the basic yarn before' thedoubling operation should be either in excess of, or short of, that desired in the ultimate product. It is usually preferable to insert the doubling twist in the same direction as the original twist in the basic yarn so that at no stage has the basic yarn a twist higher than that inv the desired product. By this means the strength of the basic yarn is conserved. For example when an ultimate twist of 55 turns per inch in the basic yarn of the composite product is desired, it is better to insert a twist of 50 turns per inch and then increase this to 55 by a doubling twist of 5 turns per inch in the same direction than to start with an original twist of 60 turns per inch and to decrease this to 55 by a doubling twist of 5 turns per inch in the revers-e direction.

Preferably the initial twist in the basic yarn and the doubling twist are so chosen that the basic yarn in the composite product is readily capable of being shrunk by treatment with hot aqueous liquors.

As stated above it is of the greatest importance in order to obtain the best results that the voluminous component should be present in the composite products of the present invention in preponderating proportion. The high proportion of voluminous component relative to basic yarn may b e achieved, for example, by associating a voluminous component of relatively high denier with a basic yarn of relatively low denier, the voluminoips component and the basic yarn being fed at the same speed to the doubling device. Or alternatively, and this seems to be preferable from the point of view ofthe voluminosity of the product, the voluminous component may be fed at a higher speed than the basic yarn to the doubling device, for example at a speed 5, 10, 50 or even 100% or more faster than that of the basic yarn. In this way the voluminous component appears in the composite product as if it were more or less spiralled round the basic yarn, with the result that the latter may be more or less embedded in the composite product. As an example of the relative proportions of voluminous component to basic yarn of a final total denier of 150-200 in the composite product, the basic yarn may have a denier of the order of 30-50. With such low proportions of basic yarn it is advantageous, as indicated above, that the basic `yarn should vbe of relatively high tenacity.

In accordance with this invention a single basic yarn may be doubled with a single voluminous component but numerous other combinations fall within the scope of the invention. Thus two or more voluminous components may be doubled with a single basic yarn, or-two or more composite yarns, each containing one or more voluminous components doubled with a basic yarn, may be doubled together so as to make a product of greater total denier. Again, a voluminous component doubled with a basic yarn may be further doubled with an additional voluminous component, or composite yarns containing one or more voluminous components doubled with a basic yarn may be doubled with each other and simultaneously with an additional basic yarn or other desired component. In each doubling operation the speed of feeding the different yarns to the doubling device may be controlled in the manner already described so as to yield a product of high voluminosity.

Preferably the composite products are subjected to a scour so as to shrink the basic yarn before associating the composite yarn in a fabric. By this means in the weaving or knitting of the composite yarns into fabric not only does the presence ofthe basic yarn prevent undue extension of the voluminous component and thereby conserve the voluminuous and elastic character of the composite yarn in the final product but, in additional, the curl developed in the basic yarn as the result of the shrinking treatment helps to prevent slipping of the voluminous component along the basic yarn. However, the rough character of the basic yarn may be suiiicient to prevent such slipping and the shrinking operation may be applied to the materials, if desired, after fabric formation.

As indicated above, the initial twist in the basic yarn and the doubling twist are preferably so chosen that the basic yarn in the composite product is readily capable of being shrunk by Atreatment with hot aqueous liquors. This is a characteristic of high twist crpe yarn and the shrinkage in question may, therefore, be referred to as a crpe shrinkage". The basic yarn, after it has been shrunk by treatment with hot aqueous liquors, is therefore referred to in the claims as a crpe-shrunk yarn.

Examples of composite yarns according to the invention will now be described with reference to Figs. 1-5 of the accompanying diagrammatic drawing.

In the drawing:

A is a 170 denier yarn of crinkled cellulose acetate filaments substantially free from twist.

B is a denier viscose crpe yarn containing 40 turns per inch S twist.

C is a 75 denier viscose crpe yarn containing 33 turns per inch S twist.

D is an denier cellulose acetate crpe yarn containing turns per inch S twist prepared by a process in which the last part of the twist has been inserted while the thread is under the inuence of steam. (See U. S. Patents Nos. 2,088,628, 2,088,587 and 2,089,191.)

E is a 34 denier natural silk crpe yarn containing 74 turns per inch S twist.

F is a 75 denier viscose crpe yarn containing 40 turns per inch S twist.

Referring to Fig. 1, one end of the yarn A is doubled with one end of the yarn B by means of 5 turns per inch S twist. If desired this construction can be modied by feeding the yarn A to the doubling device faster, e. g. 5% or 10% 75 faster, than the yarn B, and in this way the voluminosity of the product may be enhanced.

In Fig. 2, two ends of the yarn A are doubled with one end of the yarn C, the yarns A being fed to the doubling device 5% faster than the yarn C, i. e. each 100 units of length of the yarn C is doubled with 105 units of length of each of the yarns A. The doubling is effected by 12 turns per inch S twist.

The construction illustrated in Fig. 3 is similar to that shown in Fig. 2 except that one end of the yarn D is employed instead of the yarn C.

Fig. 4 illustrates a construction in which one end of the yarn E is doubled with one end of the yarn A by means of 21 turns per inch S twist. the yarn A being fed to the doubling device 50% faster than the yarn E, i. e. so that 100 units of length of the yarn A are doubled with 150 units of length of the yarn E, and two composite yarns thus produced are doubled together by means of a 12 turns per inch Z" twist.

Referring to Fig. 5, two ends of the yarn F are doubled with one end of the yarn A by means of a 34 turns per inch S twist, the yarn A being fed to the doubling device at three times the speed of the yarns F, i. e. so that 100 units of length of each of the yarns F is doubled with 300 units of length of the yarn A, and two composite yarns thus produced are doubled together by means of a 12 turns per inch Z twist. The yarn produced in this way closely resembles a chenille yarn.

Having described our invention what we desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. A composite yarn resembling a wool yarn, which comprises a yarn of crinkled cellulose acetate filaments which in the composite yarn has at most only a low degree of twist, doubled with a high twist yarn which in the composite yarn has a degree of twist such that it possesses the ability to shrink on treatment with hot aqueous liquors, the yarn of crinkled cellulose acetate filaments being present in substantially greater proportion than the said high twist yarn.

2. A composite yarn resembling a wool yarn, which comprises a yarn of crinkled cellulose acetate laments which in the composite yarn has at most only a low degree of twist, doubled with a high twist yarn which in the composite yarn has a degree of twist such that it possesses the ability to shrink on treatment with hot aqueous liquors, the yarn of crinkled cellulose acetate laments being of substantially greater denier than the said high twist yarn.

3. A composite yarn resembling a wool yarn which comprises a length of a high twist yarn .doubled with a greater length of a yarn of crinkled cellulose acetate laments, the said yarn of crinkled cellulose acetate iilaments having in the composite yarn at most only a low degree of twist, and the said high twist yarn having in thev composite yarn a degree of twist such that it possesses the ability to shrink on treatment with hot aqueous liquors, the yarn of crinkled cellulose acetate filaments being in substantially greater proportion than the said high twist yarn.

4. A composite yarn resembling a wool yarn, which comprises a length' ofa high twist yarn doubled with a greater length of a yarn of crinkled cellulose acetate filaments, the said yarn of crinkled cellulose acetate laments having in the composite yarn at most only a low degree of twist, the said high twist yarn having in the composite yarn a degree of ,twist such that it possesses the ability to shrink on treatment with hot aqueous liquors, and the said high twist yarn constitutlng at most 30% of the total denier of the composite yarn.

5. A composite yarn resembling a wool yarn, which comprises a high twist yarn doubled with a yarn of crinkled cellulose acetate iilaments, the said yarn of crinkled cellulose acetate filaments having in the composite yarn at most only a low degree of twist, and the said high twist yarn having in the composite yarn a degree of twist such that it possesses the ability to shrink on treatment with hot aqueous liquors, the yarn of crinkled cellulose acetate filaments being in substantially greater proportion than the said high twist yarn.

6. A composite yarn resembling a wool yarn, which comprises a yarn of crinkled cellulose acetate laments doubled with a highly twisted yarn of high tensile strength, the said yarn of crinkled cellulose acetate illaments having in the composite yarn at most only a low degree of twist and the said high twist yarn having in the composite yarn a degree of twist such that it possesses the ability to shrink on treatment with hot aqueous liquors, the yarn of crinkled cellulose acetate filaments being in substantially greater proportion than the said high twist yarn.

7. A composite yarn resembling a wool yarn, which comprises a yarn of crinkled cellulose acetate filaments doubled with a highly twisted yarn of high tensile strength, the said yarn of crinkled cellulose acetate laments having in the composite yarn at most only a low degree of twist, the said high twist yarn having in the composite yarn a degree of twist such that it possesses the ability to shrink on treatment with hot 'aqueous liquors, and the said high twist yarn constituting at most 30% of the total denier of the composite yarn.

8. A composite yarn resembling a wool yarn, which comprises a yarn of cellulose acetate filaments which have been crinkled by treatment with a hot aqueous liquor, doubled with a high twist yarn which in the composite yarn has a de gree of twist such that it possesses the ability to shrink on treatment with hot aqueous liquors, the yarn of crinkled, cellulose acetate laments being present in substantially greater proportion than the said high twist yarn and having, in the composite product, at most only a low degree of twist.

9. A composite yarn resembling a wool yarn, which comprises a yarn of cellulose acetate iilaments which have been crinklled by twisting the yarn, setting the twist therein and thereafter 'removing at least part of the twist, doubled with a high twist yarn which in the composite yarn has a degree of twist such that it posssesses the ability to shrink on treatment with hot aqueous liquors,

the yarn of crinkled cellulose acetate filaments being present in substantially greater proportion than the said high twist yarn and having, in the composite product, at most only a low degree of twist.

10. A composite yarn resembling a wool yarn, which comprises a yarn of crinkledy cellulose acetate filaments which in the composite yarn has at most only a low degree of twist, doubled with a crpe-shrunk high twist yarn, the yarn of crinkled cellulose acetate filaments being in substantially greater proportion than the said high twist yarn.

l1. A composite yarn resembling a wool yarn, which comprises a yarn of crinkled cellulose acetate laments which in the composite yarn has at most only a low degree of twist doubled with a crpe-shrunk high twist yarn, the yarn of crinkled cellulose acetate filaments being of substantially greater denier than the said high twist yarn.

12. A composite yarn resembling a wool yarn, which comprises a length of a crpe-shrunk high twist yarn doubled with a greater length of a yarn of crinkled cellulose acetate filaments which in the composite yarn has at most only a low degree of twist, the yarn of crinkled cellulose acetate laments being in substantially greater proportion than the said high twist yarn.

13. A composite yarn resembling a wool yarn, which comprises a yarn of crinkled cellulose acetate filaments which in the composite yarn has at most only a low degree of twist doubled with a crpe-shrunk high twist yarn, the said high twist yarn constituting at most 30% of the total denier of the composite yarn.

14. Process for the production of composite yarns resembling wool yarns, which comprises associating together at least two yarns, one of which is a yarn of crinkled cellulose acetate filaments and one of which is a high twist yarn, the said yarn of crinkled cellulose acetate filaments being present in the final product in substantially greater proportion than the said high twist yarn and having in the final product at most only a low degree of twist, and the said high twist yarn having in the final product a degree of twist such that it possesses the ability to shrink on treatment with hot aqueous liquors.

15. Process for the production of composite yarns resembling wool yarns, which comprises doubling together at least two yarns, one of which is a yarn of crinkled cellulose acetate filaments and one of which is a high twist yarn, the said yarn of crinkled cellulose acetate filaments being ofl substantially greater denier than the said high twist yarn and having in the final product at most only a low degree of twist, and the said high twist yarn having in the final product a degree of twist such that it possesses the ability to shrink on treatment with hot aqueous liquors.

16. Process for the production of composite yarns resembling wool yarns, which comprises feeding to a doubling device a yarn of crinkled cellulose acetate laments and a high twist yarn,

the former yarn being fed to the doubling devicev at a speed greater than the latter yarn and the doubling twist being such that the said yarn of crinkled filaments in the final product has at most only a low degree of twist and the said high twist yarn has a degree of twist such that it possesses the ability to shrink on treatment with hot aqueous liquors.

17. Process for the production of composite yarns resembling wool yarns, which comprises feeding to a doubling device a yarn of crinkled cellulose acetate filaments and a high twist yarn, the former yarn being fed to the doubling device at a speed greater than the latter yarn and the doubling twist being in the same direction as the twist in the high twist yarn and being such that the said yarn of crinkled laments in the final product has at most only a low degree of twist and the said high twist yarn` has a degree of twist such that it possesses the ability to shrink on treatment with hot aqueous liquors.

18. Process for the production of composite yarns resembling wool yarns, which comprises doubling together at least two yarns, one of which is a yarn of crinkled cellulose acetate filaments and one of which is a high twist yarn, in -such proportions that the said high twist yarn constitutes at most 30% of the total denier of the product, and so that the said yarn of crinkled filaments possesses in the final product at most only a low degree of twist and the said high twist yarn possesses in the final product a degree of twist such that it possesses the ability to shrink on treatment with hot aqueous liquors.

19. Process for the production of composite yarns resembling wool yarns, which comprises doubling together at least two yarns, one of which is a yarn of crinkled cellulose acetate filaments and one of which is a highly twisted yarn of high tensile strength, in such proportions that the said high twist yarn constitutes at most 30% of the total denier of the product, and so that the said yarn of crinkled filaments possesses in the final product at most only a low degree of twist and the said high twist yarn possesses in the final product a degree of twist such that it possesses the ability to shrink on treatment with `hot aqueous liquors.

the final product a degree of twist such that it possesses the ability to shrink on treatment with hot aqueous liquors, and thereafter subjecting the composite product to the action ofl hot aqueous liquors so as to effect shrinkage of such high twist yarn.

21. Process for the production of composite yarns resembling wool yarns, which comprises doubling together at least two yarns, one of which is a yarn of flat cellulose acetate filaments which have been crinkled by treatment with a hot aqueous medium and one of which is a high twist yarn, the said yarn of crinkled cellulose acetate filaments being present in substantially greater proportion than the said high twist yarn, and the .doubling twist being such that the said yarn of crinkled filaments possesses in the final product at most only a low degree of. twist and the said high twist yarn possesses in the final product a degree of twist such that it possesses the ability to shrink on treatment with hot aqueous liquors.

22. Process for theproduction of composite yarns resembling wool yarns, which comprises doubling together at least two yarns, one of which is a yarn of cellulose acetate filaments which have been crinkled by twisting the said yarn, setting the twist, and removing at least part of the twist, and one of which is a high twist yarn, the said yarn of crinkled cellulose acetate filaments being present in substantially greater proportion than the said high twist yarn, and the- DONALD FINLAYSON. JAMES FREDERICK LEVERS.

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