US2124653A

US2124653A - Art of shoemaking

Info

Publication number: US2124653A
Application number: US114036A
Authority: US
Inventors: Drew Frederick Wallace
Original assignee: United Shoe Machinery Corp
Current assignee: United Shoe Machinery Corp
Priority date: 1936-12-03
Filing date: 1936-12-03
Publication date: 1938-07-26
Anticipated expiration: 1955-07-26

Description

July 26, 1938. l F. w. DREW 2,124,653

ART oF sHoEMAKING F11-ed Dec. s, 193s 2 sheets-sheet 1 Z3 ZI July 26, 193s. F w, DREW 2,124,653

ART OF SHOEMAKING Filed Dec. s, 195e 2 shets-sheet `2:

Patented July 26, 1938 PATENT OFFICE ART oF LsHoEMAKING l Frederick .Wallace Drew, Portsmouth, Ohio, as-

signorv to' United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Paterson, .N. J., acorporation of New Jersey Application DecemberS, 1936, Serial No. 114,036

2 Claims.,-r (Cl. 12-142) This invention relates to a methodof making shoes and to an insole which is employed in practicing the method.

In the manufacture of one type of shoe the bottom of the forepart of which is flexible, it

has been customary to provide a skeletonized insole having an opening in its forepart into which a projection on the outsole extends, and one object of the present invention is to improve the method of manufacturing such a shoe. Not only is it difficult to attach a skeleton insole firmly to the bottom of a last but, when this insole is subjected to strains as it is, for example during the lasting of the upper, it is liable to be stretched or distorted, with the result that the desired shape of the finished shoe is not attained.

According to the present invention, a piece is out out of the insole to produce an opening having a beveled edge in its forepart in which the projection on the outsole may later be received, and then the cut-out piece is fastened firmly but detachably in place with the beveled edge of the piece in contact with the beveled edge of the opening. This insole, which is practically as strong as before the opening in it was made, is assembled together with an upper upon a last, and the manufacture of the shoe is carried out in any desired manner until the partly fabricated shoe reaches the stage where the outsole is to be attached, whereupon the cut-out piece is re' moved from the opening in the insole, and the outsole is fastened in place with its projection extending into the opening. Althoughthepresent invention is applicable to the manufacture of various kinds of shoes having skeletonized insoles, it is particularly well adapted to the manufacture of a Goodyear welt shoe.

Referring to the accompanying drawings:

Fig. l is a perspective of a channeled insole;

Fig. 2 is a transverse section of this insole; Fig. 3 is a detail in end elevation of a portion of a machine for distorting the insole and cutting the piece out of the forepart, an insole being shown in process of being operated upon;

Fig. 4 is a detail in front elevation of a portion of the same machine and insole, the cut of the knife being indicated by a dot-and-dash line; Fig. 5 is a transverse section of the insole showing the bevel edge of the cut-out piece and that of the opening;

Fig. 6 is a perspective of the insole after the cut-out piece has been severed therefrom;

Fig. 7 is a perspective of the insole after the cut-out piece has been sewed in place and the channel flaps have been raised to form a rib;

Fig. 8 is a transverse section of Fig. 7;

Fig. 9 is a transverse section like Fig. 8 but showing in additiona reenforcement of sheet material cemented to the insole;

Fig. 10 is a detail showing the lasting of the upper and the fastening of it to the rib of the insole by a staple lasting machine;

Fig. 11 is a transverse section of a partly fabricated shoe after the inseam has been trimmed and the cut-out piece removed;

Fig. 12 is a perspective of an outsole having a projection on its forepart;

Fig. 13 is a transverse section through the forepart of the outsole;

Fig. 14 is a transverse section through the forepart of a finished shoe; and

Fig. 15 is a view partially in transverse section and partially in perspective showing the interior of the toe portion of a finished shoe.

In carrying out the method, an insole (Fig. l) is channeled, for example by making the two cuts 2|, 23 commonly employed which produce two thin flaps. A piece l I9 is cut out of the forepart of the insole to provide an opening to receive the projection |25 (Fig. 12) on the outsole 25. This projection may be formed in any suitable manner and preferably has a beveled edge 225. Returning to Figs. 2 to 10, a satisfactory mode of cutting out a piece from the insole is by distorting the forepart of the insole and feeding it to a knife 28 by means of

rolls

21, 29 having respectively a matrix 3l and a patrix 33, these members being properly shaped and arranged to cooperate with each other so as preferably to provide a beveled edge opening into which the projection on the outsole will fit. The cut-out piece IIS is now detachably fastened in place in the opening so that, at the proper time, it may readily be removed. As illustrated, the piece is sewed in place by chain stitches 35 which pass through the beveled edges of the cut-out piece and of the opening and which may readily be pulled out. The channel flaps are now raised and stuck.together in the usual manner to form a rib 31, the completed insole having the appearance shown in Fig. '7. It will be noted that the bevel cut by which the piece H9 was cut out is inclined downward and inward from the soleattaching face of the insole so that later this piece may readily be removed from that face.

The completed insole is assembled together With an upper, which ordinarily comprises an outer layer 39 and a lining 4I, upon a last 43 and is lasted in any desired manner and fastened to the insole. As illustrated in Fig. 10, this may be accomplished by means of a suitable lasting machine which drives staples through the upper into the rib 31. The welt 41 (Fig. 11) is attached by a Welt sewing machine which inserts the stitches 49, and the inseam is trimmed. At this stage, the chain stitch 35 (Fig. 7) which holds the cut-out piece H9 in place is pulled out and the piece is removed, the shoe now having the appearance shown in Fig. 11. The outsole 25 is located on the bottom of the shoe with its projection |25 extending into the opening in the insole, with the beveled edge of the projection against the beveled edge of the opening, and is pressed rmly into place bythe usual sole-attaching machine, after which the sole is fastened to the welt by stitches 5l and the sole is leveled.

Referring now to Fig. 9, the insole of Fig. 8 may be reenforced if desired by a properly shaped piece of sheet material 53, such as canvas or leather, which is cemented to one face of the insole I9 and to the inner face of the rib 31 over the cut-out piece l I9; and in this case it will be necessary to cut this reenforcement to permit removing the cut-out piece. If desired the point of a knife may be forced through the reenforcement and into the cut between the cut-out piece and the rest of the insole, and then the knife may be manipulated to sever the stitches 36 and at the same time cut a piece out of the reenforcement. Although the invention has been set forth as applied to the manufacture of a welt shoe in which the sole is attached to the welt by stitches, it should be understood that the invention is not limited in the scope of its application to use in the manufacture of such a shoe. And valthough the illustrated method has been described as comprising a series of steps performed in a particular order, it should be understood that the order of the steps may in some cases be varied.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. The method of making a shoe which comprises providing an outsole with a beveled projection on its forepart, cutting a piece out of the forepart of an insole to produce an opening having a beveled edge in which the projection on the outsole may later be received, detachably fastening the cut-out piece in place in the opening by means of stitches extending substantially parallel to the edge of the opening in the insole and capable of being readily pulled out, and employing the insole and outsole in the manufacture of a shoe including removing the cut-out piece and fastening the outsole in place with its projection extending into the opening and the beveled edge of the projection in contact with the beveled edge of the opening.

2. The method of making a shoe which comprises providing an outsole with a projection on its forepart, channeling an insole, cutting a beveled edge piece out of the fcrepart of the insole to form an opening to receive the projection on the outsole, detachably fastening the cut-out piece in the opening by stitches which pass through the k beveled edge of the cut-out piece and that of the opening, raising the channel flaps to form a rib, attaching a reenforcing fabric to the insole over the cut-out piece and employing the insole and outsole in the manufacture of a shoe including cutting out a portion of the reenforcing fabric, severing the stitches, removing the cut-out piece and the cut-out portion and fastening the outsole in place with its projection extending into the opening.

FREDERICK WALLACE DREW.