US2217767A - Manufacture of shoes - Google Patents

Description

Oct. 15, 1940. PALMER 2,217,767

MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Filed Jan. 10, 1938 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 50 W f W V 5g 32 F1 g5 50 5.9 56 M FjgA,

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MANUFACTURE OF 51-10 ES Filed Jan. 10, 1938 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Oct. 15, 1940 UNITED STATES PATENT orFlcE 2,217,767 MANUFACTURE or snons James Palmer, Nashville, Tenn, assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Borough of Flem: ington, N. J a corporation of New Jersey Application January 10, 1938, Serial No. 184,137

3 Claims.

central projection complemental to said insole recess on the forepart of an outsole at the side which is to face the insole, and the assembly of said insole and said outsole during the process of making the shoe with the complemental portions of the soles in interfitted relation.

The present invention provides an improved method of making shoes the inner and outer soles of which have complemental interfitting portions of the character above referred to, the practice of which will produce marked improvements in the construction of the shoes and Will result in the making of substantial savings in the cost of materials employed and the shoemaking operations involved. The improved method consists in removing a thin layer from the grain side of a leather insole blank of block insole form and cementing the remaining body portion of the blank to the flesh side of a block outsole, thereby providing a composite sole blank comprising a block form layer of insole material and a block form layer of outsole material, trimming the layer of outsole material to outsole size and shape and incising the layer of insole material to insole size and shape, dividing the composite blank into a skeletonized insole member havin an opening in its forepart, an outsole having a forepart projection complemental to the opening in the insole member, and a waste strip of insole material, cementing the thin block form layer initially removed from the insole blank to the skeletonized insole member withthe grain surface of that layer outermost, trimming the thin layer to the contour of the skeletonized insole member, and using the insole thus produced together with the outsole in the manufacture of a shoe having complemental interfitting sole portions. By securing to the skeletonized insole member the layer removed from the insole blank it will be unnecessary to employ the usual sock lining in the shoe and a considerable saving will be effected, inasmuch as the cost of a separate sock lining will be eliminated as well as the expense incident to the operation of inserting the sock lining. Moreover, the insole itself will be of a superior construction inasmuch as the relatively thin central portion of its forepart willbe of uniform thickness and strength throughout its area and thus will function most effectively to reinforce the insole against strains tending to stretch or distort it in edgewise directions. The invention will now be explained with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which Fig. 1 is a cross-sectional View of the forepart of an insole blank showing the blanksplit into a relatively thin grain layer and a relatively thick 10 Fig. 2 is a cross-sectional view of a laminated sole blank produced by cementing the flesh layer shown in Fig. 1 to an outsole blank;

Fig.3 is a cross-sectional view of the laminated 15 blank shown in Fig. 2 as it appears after it has been rounded;

Fig. 4 is a cross-sectional View of a skeleton insole-complemental outsole combination produced by splitting the blank shown in Fig. 3; I

Fig. 5 is a perspective view of the lower side of the skeleton insole shown in Fig. 4;

Fig. 6 is a perspective view of .the upper side of the complemental outsole shown in Fig. 4;

Fig. 7 is a cross-sectional view of the forepart 25 of the skeleton insole after the thin grain layer shown in Fig. 1 has been cemented to it;

Fig. 8 is a cross-sectional view of the insole after the grain layer has been trimmed to the contour of the flesh layer and the flesh layer has 30 been channeled so as to form inner and outer channels therein;

' Fig. 9 is a cross-sectionalview of the insole as it appears after the channel lips have been raised and reinforced;

Fig. 10 is a cross-sectional view of theinsole assembled'with an upper on a last, the margin of 1 the upper being secured in overlasted position upon the insole;

Fig. 11 is a View similar to Fig. 10 showing the 40 shoe as it appears after the upper together with a welt have been secured to the sewing rib by inseam stitches;

Fig. 12 is a perspective view of a pair of insole blanks or block insoles of the type illustrated in 45 Fig. 1, showing each blank split into a relatively thin grain layer and a relatively thick flesh layer;

Fig. 13 is a perspective view of a pair of recessed insoles of laminated or composite construction, together with a pair of complemental 50 outsoles ready for use in the manufacture of a pair of shoes; and

Fig. 14 is a view, partially in perspective and partially in cross-section, of a completed shoe.

In practicing my improved method of shoe- 55 making, as exemplified in the drawings, an insole blank or block insole 28 of leather having a grain surface 22 and a flesh surface 24 is split, as indicated at 26, into a relatively thin grain surface layer 28 and a relatively thick layer 33. The relatively thick insole layer 30 is secured by means of cement 32, for example latex, to a leather outsile blank or block outsole 34. having a flesh surface 35 and a grain surface 36, the surface of the insole blank which was formed by the splitting operation above described facing the flesh surface 35 of the outsole.

The laminated sole blank thus produced is cut to outsole size, as indicated at 38 in Fig. 3, and the insole layer of the blank is preferably incised at this stage of operations, as indicated at 39, to outline an insole slightly smaller in size than the outsole and appropriate for use with said outsole in the manufacture of a welt shoe. Advantageously, this rounding and incising may be performed simultaneously by means of a socalled Double knife rounding machine such, for example, as that disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 2,057,665, granted October 20, 1936, upon application of F. E. Bertrand, one of the knives of the machine rounding the blank to the sole-shaped contour 38 and thus determining the outline of the outsole which is subsequently to be produced, while the second knife of the machine cuts through the layer of insole material producing the vertical incision 39 and thus determining the outline of the insole. The rounded and incised sole blank is then divided or split along the line X-X (Fig. 3) intoa skeletonized insole member 9 having an opening 42 extending entirely through its forepart and an outsole Al i having a forepart projection 46 complemental to theopening 42 in the insole. The skeletonized insole member 40 and the projection 46 on the outsole i i are thus formed entirely from the material of the insole layer 30. This dividing operation may conveniently be performed by means of a matrix roll type splitting machine of the general type of that disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 2,053,304, granted September 8, 1936, upon application of W. D. Thomas, such a machine having a straight-edged splitting knife against which the sole blank is fed edgewise by means of cooperating matrix rolls which temporarily deform or distort the blank by depressing its central forward portion so that the knife will emerge around the periphery of the depressed portion of the blank.

The thin grain surfaced layer 28 initially split from the block insole 20 (Fig. 1) is then cemented to the skeletonized insole member 40, as indicated in Fig. 7. As shown, the layer 28 is largerthan the insole member 40 and the surplus marginal material of the thin layer 28 is trimmed to the size and shape of the member Ml, the trimming out being advantageously gaged from the previously trimmed or incised edge of the member Mi so that the edge of the thin layer will be flush with the edge of the member 49, as indicated in Fig. 8. This trimming of the thin layer 28 may be efiected by the use of suitable trimming means (not shown), the out being gaged from the previously trimmed or incised edge of the insole member 40. If the layer 28 were initially out to the same size as the insole member 45, the difficulty of accurately registering thetwo parts after cement has been applied to them would be such as to make such an operation so time consuming as to be entirely impracticable. By cutting the layer 28 oversize and trimming it to size after its attachment to the insole member lib, however, accurate results may be obtained Without any substantial delay in the process of makingthe shoe. After the trimming operation has been performed, there has ben provided a laminated insole 28 (Fig. 8) having a recess 5% which extends only part way through the forepart of the laminated structure and which is complemental to the forepart projection it on the outsole 44.

The invention is herein exemplified with reference to the manufacture of welt shoes and accordingly, after the laminated insoles have been formed as already desciibed, the relatively thick layer of the insole is channeled to form inner and outer channel lips 52 and 54, respectively (Fig. 8), and these channel lips are raised and cemented together to form a sewing rib 58 (Fig. 9). It is to be noted that While it would be quite impracticable to channel the skeletonized insole layer 49 before the thin layer 28 had been applied to it (because the opening in the thick layer would weaken it so that it would be stretched out of shape while being fed through the channeling machine) nevertheless after the two layers have been cemented together the resulting laminated or composite structure is strengthened to such an extent that no difliculty is experienced in successfully performing the channeling operation. As shown in Fig. 9, the laminated insole 48 is further reinforced after the rib 58 has been formed thereon by a layer of canvas 58 which is cementedto that portion of the surface of the layer which lies within the rib 56 and to the inner side of the rib itself.

In using this reinforced ribbed insole 68 in making a welt shoe as herein illustrated, the insole is assembled with an upper (if: on a last 62, the upper is worked over the last and its margin is secured in overlasted position to the rib 56 as by means of staples St. The insole, being formed of two layers cemented together, will be more effective than a solid insole, i. e., one of non-laminated construction, in resisting any tendency of the lasting instrumentalities to dis-' tort or crumple its marginal portion while the upper is being worked inwardly over the edge of the insole. Upon the release of the tension exerted upon the upper in the lasting operation the layer 28 which bridges the recess 5E3 will prevent the insole from reacting or expanding under the influence of the pull exerted thereon by the lasted upper. Thereafter a welt 66 is applied and the welt, the upper and the insole are united by means of inseam stitches 58 which extend through the insole rib 55.

After the usual inseam trimming operation has been performed the shoe is ready to receive the outsole 64 which is laid with its forepart projection i6 interfitting within the recess 5!) of the insole. As shown, the outsole is attached to the welt 66 by means of outseam stitches it.

As a result of the practice of my invention the desirable features of complemental insole-outsole construction may be secured in a welt shoe without the disadvantages incident to the use of the usual skeleton insole. Not only is the insole made more firm and substantial as a result of its laminated construction so that it will permanently retain its shape in the finished shoe, but this advantage is obtained without sacrificing fiexibiilty inasmuch as each of the component layers of the insole consists of leather insole material and the layersare secured together by latex or other cement which is'of such a character that it does not appreciably stiffen the sole so as to resist bending to one side or the other as required to accommodate the flexure of the foot in walking. On the other hand,.the insole is substantially strengthened by virtue of its laminated construction against distortion as a result of pressure applied to it in edgewise directions and thus it functions effectively to support the upper internally just above the inturned margin of the latter and holds it close to the margin of the outsole. Moreover, inasmuch as the thin layer 28 at the upper side of the insole has a grain surface at its upper side it is unnecesary to employ the usual sock lining to provide a smooth foot-engagingsurface and to provide the desired neat and finished appearance to the interior of the shoe bottom. Thus, not only is a substantial saving in the cost of shoe materials and operations effected, but the construction of the shoe is improved since the foot-facing side of the insole will be maintained free from wrinkles throughout the life of the shoe.

The outsole shown in Fig. 6 is a left outsole and'the skeletonized insole member shown in Fig. is of an edge contour corresponding to that of the outsole so that the insole which is finally produced is a left insole. It will be understood that in order to make a pair of shoes it is necessary to provide the insoles and outsoles in rights and lefts. As already pointed out it is desirable, in making the laminated insoles, to have the grain surface of the thin imperforate layer 28 outermost at the upper side of the insole so that a smooth finished surface like that of the upper surface of a sock lining will be presented for engagement with the foot. It is also desirable to have the lower or outsole facing side of the laminated insole of firm and solid material so that after it has been channeled the channel lips will be sufficiently strong to make a satisfactory sewing rib. These results may be accomplished by proceeding as follows. There is provided a right insole blank or block insole A having a lower r grain surface, and a left insole blank or block insole B having a lower grain surface. Each of these blanks is split into a thin layer 28 (Fig. 12) having a lower grain surface, and a relatively thick layer 36. .The thick layer 30 from the right insole block A is cemented to a right outsole block and the thick layer 30 from the left insole block B is cemented to a left outsole block. In each case the split side of the insole block is next to the flesh side of the outsole block. The left and right laminated blanks thus produced, after having been rounded, are split into complemental. insole-outsole combinations, a left skeleton insole'member and a left complernental outsole being produced from the left blank, and a right skeleton insole member and a right complemental outsole being produced from the right blank. Then the thin layer 28 from the left insole block B is inverted and cemented grain surface uppermost to the upper or foot facing side of the right skeleton insole member and the thin layer 28 from the right insole blank A is inverted and cemented grain surface uppermost to the upper or foot facing side of the left skeleton insole member. In each case the thin layer 28 is cemented tothat side of the thick layer 36, which was further from the grain surface in the block insole from which the thick layer was cut, thus leaving exposed for channeling the side which was nearer to the grain surface and which is consequently of maximum firmness. After the thin layers have been trimmed there has been provided a pair of laminated or composite insoles C, C (Fig. 13) each having a recess extending only part way through its forepart and these insoles are now ready for assembly with a pair of complemental outsoles D, D (Fig. 13) in the making of a pair of shoes.

It should be understood that if it is not desired to employ right and left insole blanks or block insoles from which to split the relatively thin.

layers 28 and the relatively thick layers 3i) that are ultimately to constitute the laminated recessed insoles, it is practicable to employ insole blanks or block insoles which are neither rights nor lefts, i. e., which are of such shapes that either right soles or left soles may be out therefrom.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. That improvement in shoemaking which consists in removing a thin layer from the grain side of a leather insole blank of block insole form and cementing the remaining body portion of the blank to theflesh side of a block outsole, thereby providing a composite sole blank comprising a block form layer of insole material and a block form layer of outsole material, trimming said layer of outsole material to outsole size and shape and incising said layer of insole material to insole size and shape, dividing said composite blank into a skeletonized insole member having an opening in its forepart, an outsole having a forepart projection complemental to. the opening in said insole member, and a Waste strip ofinsole material, cementing the thin block form layer initially removed from said insole blank to said skeletonized insole member with the grain surface of said layer outermost, trimming said thin layer to the contour of the skeletonized insole member, and using the insole thus produced together with said outsole in the manufacture of a shoe having complemental interfltting sole portions.

2. That improvement in shoemaking which consists in removing a thin layer from the grain side of a leather insole blank of block insole form and cementing the remaining body portion of the blank to the flesh side of a block outsole, thereby providing a composite sole blank comprising a block form layer of insole material and a block form layer of outsole material, trimming said layer of outsole material to outsole size having an opening in its forepart, an outsole having a forepart projection complemental to the opening in said insole member, and a waste strip of insole material, cementing the thin block form layer initially removed from said insole blank to said skeletonized insole member with the grain surface of said layer outermost, trimming said thin layer to the contour of skeletonized insole member, forming a marginal channel lip upon said insole member, raising said lip and reinforcing it to form a sewing rib, securing an upper and a welt to said rib, and attaching said outsole with said projection interfitting within the opening in said insole member.

3. That improvement in shoemaking which consists in providing a right insole blank and a left insole blank each being composed of leather right outsole blank and a left outso le blank, removing a thin layer from the lower or grain side of each of said right and left insole blanks and cementing the remaining relatively thick layers of said blanks to said right and left outsole blanks, respectively, trimming the right and left laminated blanks thus produced to right and left sole edge contours, respectively, dividing said right laminated blank into a right skeletonized insole member having an opening in its forevpart and a right outsole having an insole projection complemental to the opening in said insole member, dividing said left laminated blank into a left skeletonized insole member having an opening in its forepart and a left outsole having an insole projection complemental to the opening in said insole member, inverting the thin layer from said right insole blank and cementing it to the upper side of said left skeletonized insole member with its grain surface outermost, inverting the thin layer from said left insole blank and cementing it to the upper side of said right skeletonized insole member with its grain surface outermost, and using the laminated right and left insoles thus produced with said right and left outsoles, respectively, in the manufacture of a pair of shoes wherein the said ou'tsole projections are interfitted within said insole openings.

JAMES PALMER.

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