US2103492A

US2103492A - Collar

Info

Publication number: US2103492A
Application number: US45897A
Authority: US
Inventors: Harvey D Roberson
Original assignee: WACHUSETT SHIRT Co
Current assignee: WACHUSETT SHIRT Co
Priority date: 1935-10-21
Filing date: 1935-10-21
Publication date: 1937-12-28
Anticipated expiration: 1954-12-28

Description

Cil

Patented Dec. 28, 1937 UNITED ASTATES COLLAR Harvey D. Roberson, Leominster, Mass., assigner to Wachusett Shirt Company, Leominster, Mass., a corporation of Massachusetts Application Gctober 21, 1935, Serial No. 45,897

12 Claims.

While the invention is applicable to detachee collars and other parts of wearing apparel the invention is particularly applicable to soft co1- lars that are permanently attached to the shirt. f

One of the objects of the present invention is the provision of an article of apparel and particularly a collar having improved means for stiffening it that is immune to the usual laun dering processes and agents and after laundering can be brought into a smooth appearance by the heat and pressure of ironing and will be stiff without the use of starch and other transient stilening means.

The garment or collar embodying the invention includes a lining fabric or stiffener carrying a cellulosic derivative or other thermoplastic material which contributes to the stiffness of the article and which under the heat and pressure of ironing softens suciently to admit of its being bonded to a fabric ply with which it is in pressure contact. A collar has been proposed heretofore having an inner ply impregnated with a fusible stifening material. A common disadvantage of such a collar is that the stiffening material is liable to be forced through the face ply under the heat and pressing'operation and appear on the outer surface of the collar, and particularly at *he inturned edge portion thereof, and harm the appearance of the surface so that the collar, and the shirt to which the collar may be attached, is unt for sale as first class merchandise.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a garment and particularly a collar construction including a stiffener ply having a thermoplastic stiffening material, the collar and the stifening material being so arranged and disposed that there is no part of the collar that has any excess of stiffening material at the time it is soft under heat and pressure that can pass through an outer ply of fabric and be visible at the surface thereof.

AA further object of the invention' is the provision of a collar having 4a stiffener ply interposed between face plies, the stiffener ply having a thin coating'only on one face only thereof, and the coated face throughout being confronted with a non-coated fabric so that there -is only sufcient coating material to bond the plies ,tcggtfnerv without penetrating the face ply and also so that there is no superimposition of coatings that can result in such excess coating material that it can pass through a face ply.

A further object is the provision of a collar that can be laundered at home and will have the 5 appearance of a machine finished product.

One of the dimculties experienced in the home laundering of collars is in obtaining a neat' wrinkle-free fold in the top or outer part adjacent its junction with the neckband. Hence an l0 important object of the invention is a collar construction, and particularly the arrangement of the fplural stiffener plies, wherein the line of fold is demarked so that the collar folds naturally along the intended line.

For defining the fold line it is an object 0f the invention to provide the collar top with two stiifener plies, one being extended through the line of fold and secured with the face plies to the neckband and the other stiener ply being 20 terminated at the fold region so that the collar has reduced stiffness between the upper edge of the `second stiffener ply and the neckband and hence folds naturally in this region. Each of the stiffen-er plies preferably has a thin coating g5 only of thermoplastic material on one face only thereof, the coated faces each confronting a separate face ply and the uncoated faces confronting eachother.

, It is a further object of the invention to pro- 30 vide a collar wherein the neckband has a stiffener lining provided with a coating of thermoplastic stiffener material that is bonded to a face ply, the stiflener ply, however, stopping short of the folded or inturned edge of the neck- 35 band or being of single thickness at said edge so that the neckband where it is attached to the top of the collar and also preferably where it is attached to the body of the shirt is thin.'

A further object is `generally to improve the 40 construction of wearing apparel and particularly collars.

Fig. 1 is a plan View of an attached collar embodying the present invention.

Fig. 2 is an enlarged sectional view through u, the folded collar of Fig. 1 and illustrating the invention. I

Fig. 3 is a view similar to Fig. 2 but illustrating a modified neckband construction.

Fig. 4 is a view similar to Fig. 2 but illustrating 50 a detached collar construction.

Fig. 5 is an enlarged section taken 5-5 of Fig. 2.

Flg. Gis an enlarged section taken along line 6 5 of, Fig. 2. a"

along line Fig. 7 is an enlarged section taken along line 1--1 of Flg. 3.

Fig. 8 is a sectional view of the top illustrating the manner of attaching the plies together prior to the turning of the top.

Fig. 9 is a plan view of a neckband face ply and its attached stiffener ply.

Fig. 10 is a sectional view illustrating the manner of securing the neckband plies to the collar top.

Fig. 11 is a sectional view illustrating the vmanner of securing the shirt body to the neckband. The invention in Figs. l, 2 and 3, is illustrated as applied to a soft collar of the attached type, the collar having the neckband portion I8 attached to the shirt body I2 and having a top or downturned outer portion I4. The top I4 comprises front and back fabric face plies I6 and I8, respectively, which can be of any Suitable material. The top also comprises a front stif` -fener ply 20 and a back stiifener ply 22 interposed between and confronting respectively the face plies IBand I8. The

stiffener plies

20 and 22 are preferably composed of a relatively light weight material such as organdie. The outer stiffener lining or ply 20 has on its front face; only, a thin coating 24 of softenable thermoplastic stiffening material. The back stiifener lining or ply 22 has on its rear face only, a similar coating 26. The

coatings

24 and 26 impart suitable stiffness to the top-and serve to attach the stiffener plies to the adjacent face plies. The stifi'ener ply, however, is not saturated with the coating material, the coating merely lying upon the surface without impregnating the lining. 'I'he amount of coating material is sufficiently little and the character thereof when subjected to heat and pressure also is such that the material does i not pass sensibly into or through the face ply with which it is in contact but becomes bonded only to the inner face material of the face ply.

The material 'forming the

coatings

24 and 28 can be of yany suitable material that is not deleteriously affected by the usual laundering processes and agents an'd retains its stiffness and ls capable of softening sufliciently under the heat and pressure of the home ironing operation to become smooth and give the collar a fresh stiff appearance. The fusible material can be a cellulosic derivative containing a suitable plasticizer which renders the material capable of becoming soft under the heat and pressure of the'ironing operation and regaining its stiffness when cool. Amaterial well adapted for the purpose is cellulose acetate with which is incorporated a suitable plasticizer or agent which enables the coating to become Soft under suitable heat and pressure. Other cellulosic derivatives can also be employed.

In assembling the top plies, it is good practice to superimpose the face plies with their outer faces in contact and with the stiffener plies against the face plies, with the coated faces of the stiifener plies outermost, as illustrated in Fig. 8. The plies are then connected together by aline of stitching 30 which extends around the 4 through the bend or fold 38 of the collar. vThe' fronts the front face ply 42. Both stiifener plies by to avoid the necessity for stitching the plies naturally and neatly by the home laundress at the fold line Without the aid of a folding machine. The amount of material in the bend or fold is reduced so that the collar is thin and can be foldedv readily at the fold line, without Wrinkling or buckling because of the thinness of the folded edge and the absence of wrinkles or bulges. The collar is particularly comfortable to wear.

The-neckband I0 of the collar, in the modification illustrated in Fig. 2, consists of front and

rear fabric plies

42 and 44, respectively, which are composed of any suitable fabric. Between the face plies 42 `and 44 are interposed two

stiffener plies

48 and 48, respectively, the front ply 46 confronting the front face ply 42 and the back ply 48 confronting the back face ply 44. Both stifener plies are composed preferably of some light weight or thin material, as organdie, and each has a thin coating 50 and 5I of thermoplastic stiffening material on its opposite faces which in the finishing of the collar are caused to adhere to the back face ply and to the front stiffener ply by heat and pressure, thereby combining all plies into one unitary structure.

The stiifener ply 48 has a thin thermoplastic coating 5II on one face only thereof, which face confronts the backface ply 44. The other stiffener ply 48 has a similar coating 5I that conare narrower at all points than the face ply with which they'are associated and are superimposed on the face ply so that the entire marginal portion of the face ply extends beyond the margin of the stiffener ply, as illustrated in Fig. 9 there- 40 by providing the face ply with an edge portion that can be 'inturned over the stiffener ply all around the margin with a minimum of bulk at the inturned edge. Preferably the face and stliener ply is united in the aforesaid relation by heat suffcientiyto remain positioned while the collar is being finished and until the final pressing operation on the completed collar, theretogether.' Both stiffener plies 4s and 4s tenni- "0 nate at the folded or inturned edges of the face plies, both at 'the top and bottom of the neckband, or are of only single thickness thereat, so that the edge portions ofthe neckband are thin;

The neckband and top preferably are united as illustrated in Fig. 10. The face plies of the neckband are placed against the face plies of the top with the top edges of both in line and with the stiffener linings outermost. The plies are then secured together by a line of stitching 58 which passes through all plies except the neck

band stiffener plies

46 and 48 and the short top stiffener ply 22 at or just above Athe top edges of the

plies

48 and 48. The neckband plies are then reversed in position or are folded along, the stitch line 56, as illustrated in Fig. 11. The shirt body I2 is then placed upon the neckband face ply 44 and secured thereto by a line of stitches 51 which pass through the face ply only and beyond the bottom edge of the associated stif'lener ply 48. The stitched ends of the shirt body and face ply are theninturned about the bottom edge of the stiifener ply 48 and ythey 7.3

arca-ica The collar is then pressed 'in a hot bed pressing machine where the heat and pressure soften the thermoplastic coatings and cause them to bond thoroughly to `the contacting uncoated plies. Since the collar is more flexible at the fold region 38 than elsewhere, by reason of the omission of the stiifener 22 from the-fold region, the collar shapes itself naturally into the fold and without the formation of wrinkles or bulges.

`In the modification illustrated in Fig. 3, one of the stiffener plies of Fig. 2 is.omitted from the neckband and but a single neckband stiffener ply 48a is empoyed. Said ply preferably is of thicker or heavier material than the' ply 48 of Fig. 2 and has a thin thennoplastic coating 50a on one face only.' which coating confronts and in the finished collar is adherent tothe back face ply 4ta and is free from adhering to the front face ply 42a.

with Fig. 2.

Fig. 4 illustrates in cross-section a detached and has between them stiifener plies 6d and 66.

The stiifener plies are composed of some light weight material as organdie and the stiffener ply 64 has a coating of thermoplastic fusible material on its outer face which confronts the front face ply 60. The stiffener ply 66 has a coating of fusible material on its back face which confronts the back face ply 62. ".The stiifener and face plies have the same width so that their top and bottom edges are coextensive and, in this modification, are inturned with the face plies.

In assembling the collar a face ply and associated stifener ply of the neckband are superimposed and have their edges inturned in a hot bed turning machine which causes the inturned edges of the p1ies,to adhere suiiiciently to stay in place. The face plies with their combined stiffener plies arethen combined as inv Fig, 4 and a line of stitching 10 is started at one end of the band and ran around the bottom edge of the band. When the stitching arrlvesat the other end of the band the top is inserted and the stitching continued to the place of beginning, thereby connecting the top and band. 'I'he facev and stiffener plies can, however, be adherently united by a preliminary heating and pressing operation as described in connection with Fig. 2.

The use of s tiifener plies coated on one side only, which side is in contact with the outer face plies of the collar, is of particular advantage herein as the inturning of the top and bottom edges of the neckband can be readily done by a A folding machine, the blades of which do not come in contact with the thermoplastic coating and hence the coatings as disposed in this construction do not hinder the folding operation by sticking to the blades.

I claim: l

1. A collar comprising a top having front and` back face plies and front jand back stiening plies interposed between said face plles, said stiffener plies each-having on one face only a 'Ihe construction otherwise is the same as describedy in connection fusible coating of stiiening material, said stiiening coatings confronting and being adherent each to a separate one of said face plies, the uncoated surfaces of said stiifening -plies confronting each other.

2. A collar comprising a neckband and a top, there being a fold in the top adjacentlits junction with the neck band, said top having front and rear face plies and interposed front and rear linings which are substantially coextensive in length with the length of said face plies and each of whichhas a coating of fusible rmaterial on one face only and is attached by said coating to a separate face ply. one of said linings being terminated short of the fold and the other of said linings 'being extended through said fold and attached to said neckband, the top being thereby of reduced thickness andreadily foldable at the fold line.

3. A collarcomprisingr a neckband anda top, there being a fold in the top adjacent its junction with the neckband. said top having front and rear face plies and interposed front and rear linings the face plies and linings being substantially coextensive in length. one of said linings being terminated short of the fold and the other of said linings being extended through said fold and attached to said neckband, said linings having fusible stiffening coatings on theirplv-,confronting faces only which are fused respectively to the confronting face plies. the top being thereby of reduced thickness and readily foldable at the fold line.

4. A collar comprising a neckband and a top, there being a fold in the top adjacent its junction with the neckband, said top having front and rear face plies and interposed front and rear linings theface plies and linings ibeing substantially coextensive in length. one of said linings beingterminated short of the fold and the other of said linings being extended through said fold and attached to said neckband. said linings hav-f ing fusible stiifening coatings thereon which are fused respectively to the confronting face plies. each lining having a coating on one face only thereof. e

5. A collar comprising a neckband and a top,

said top comprising front and rear face plies which are attached to said neckband, said top also containing stiiener plies between said face plies. said stiifener p lies being coextensive with the length of the collar, said top having a fold adjacent its junction with said neckband, one of said stiener plies being extended through said fold and attached to said neckband and the other stiiener ply being-terminated below said fold and thereby providing the fold with reduced stiffness as compared with the stiffness of the top. said stiifener plies having :coatings of fusible material on only the faces thereof that confront the front and rear face plies and being fused each to a confronting face ply.

6. A collar` comprising a neckband and a top, Said top comprising front and rear face plies which are attached to said neckband, said top also containing stiilener plies between and substantially coextensive in length with the length of said face plies, saidl top having a fold adjacent its junction with said neckband, one of said stiifener plies being extended through said fold and attached to said neckband and the other stiffener ply being terminated below said fold and thereby providing the fold with reduced stiffnessneckband having at 4 stiffening material on one face onlythereof, and said coatings being adherent each to a separate one of said front and rear face plies.

7. A collar comprising as an integral construction a neckband and a top secured together, said least one stiifener ply that is fused to the neckband and said top having plural stifening plies fused to said top, a stiffener ply of said top being excluded from the junction of said neckband, and a stiifener ply of said neckband being of single thickness at the junction of said top and neokband.

8. A collar ,having a part provided vinth front and back face plies and interposed front and back stiffener plies, the stiffener plies each having a coating on one face only thereof of a fusiblv stiffener material which is adherent to the confronting face of a face ply, the uncoated faces of said stiffener plies confronting each other;

9. A collar comprising a neckband and a top, said neckband comprising front and rear face plies and interposed front and rear stiffener plies, said stiffener plies each having a coating of a stiffener material on one face only thereof, which material is adherent to a face of a confronting face ply, the uncoated faces of said stlffener plies confronting each other, said face and stifvfener plies having inturned upper and lower edges, a line -of stitching uniting said inturned lower edges, sa'd top having an edge portion dis-- posed between said 'inturned top edges and a line of stitching connecting said top and said inturned top edges.

10. A collar comprising a top and a neckband,

said neckband comprising front and back plies having inturned upper and lower edges, a stiffener ply between said face plies having stiifener material adherently united with a face plyfthe stiffener ply being of single thickness at the inturned edges of said face plies, said top having front and back face plies and interposed stiiener plies that are coextensive with the length of the collar and one of which is connected with said neckband and the other of which is terminated short of the connection with said neckband, said top stiffener plies having stiffener material adherently uniting said stiffener plies only with confronting face plies.

11. A collar comprising a neckband anda top secured together, said neckband having an inturned edge seam at the junction of said neckband and top, said neckband and top having stiffener plies that are coextensive with the length of the collar, a stiffener ply of said top being excluded from the junction of said top and neckband, and said neckband having a stiffer stiffening ply than said top, which stiffer ply isy excluded from said inturned edge seam.

12. A fused collar having a top comprising front and rear face plies and at least one interposed stiffener ply, and a neck-band comprising front and rear face plies and at least one interposed stiffener ply, each stiffener ply having a coating of fusible stiifening material on one face only which bonds it to the confronting face ply and throughout .the confronting faces and said top stiffener ply beingV excluded from the fold line of said top.

HARVEY D. ROBERSON.