US1968410A

US1968410A - Apparel

Info

Publication number: US1968410A
Application number: US673695A
Authority: US
Inventors: Liebowitz Benjamin
Original assignee: TRUBENIZING PROCESS CORP
Current assignee: TRUBENIZING PROCESS Corp
Priority date: 1933-05-31
Filing date: 1933-05-31
Publication date: 1934-07-31
Anticipated expiration: 1951-07-31

Description

B. I IEBoWl-.rz

July 31, 1934.

APPAREL Filed May 3l, 1955 DINVENTOK i @www @gam @www

A TTORNEY.

. Patented July 31, 1934 UNITED STATES laan-oA PATENT ori-fics g v Armani. Benjamin` Liebowitz, New York, N. Ys, assgnor to Ti'ubenizing' Process Corporation, New 'N.'Y., a corporation of New York York,

Application my 31,1933, serial No. 61;,95 I l .g 12 (CL2-131) This inventionsrelates to apparel, and constitutes an improvement of patent application vSerial Number 603,242, led by me on April 5th,

'l In the following specification I shall describel my invention with particular reference tofthe lmanufacture of collars, including collar bands, both of the attached and detached types. It is to be clearly understood, however, that the inf l0. ,vention is not limited to collars .b ut applies as well to the manufacture of cuirs, parts of-shirta orother articles of apparel formed of a plurality of plies or pieces of textile fabric.

An object of 'the invention is to provide commercially practicalmeans for cementing orlbind-y ing together, either in whole o r in part, the plies .or pieces of a collar or other article of apparel.

Another object is to provide cementing means, the use of which does not in any way interfere with the usual methods or manufacturing the vA further object is to provide a process where-v by the cementing ofthe plies or. pieces,l or such portions thereofA as it may. be desired to cement f' g5 together, is effected after the article has beenv y'bodime'nt of the invention applied to a folded .collar of the attached type,in which:j

in essentials completely manufactured.

Other objects are to provide a collar or -llke article which is-,permeable to water and air so .that it may be readily laundered and is comfortable to wear; which is in whole or in part stiffened ,toI a desired degree without the use of starch or any extraneous stiii'ening means; and, which will withstandrepeated laundering without substan- I tially losing its initial'y stiilness.

similar in outward appearance to an ordinary soft or semi-stiff collar of the same style but is l more durable, lasting in shape, and resistant to wilting from perspiration or heat, rumpling in wear, or'wrinkling in washing and ironing thanr 'f which is non-cementitious in' itself but which isk capable of being made cementitious by subsequent ',treatment.

I am aware thatA it has beenproposed in the prior'art to bind together and stiften portions of O the plies of a collaror like article by coating or l f 55 impregnating the fabric with a` cementitious A collar made'according to this invention isl solution of cellulose in a solvent. This-method waterproofs the article and makes it impermeable both to moisture and air, and, therefore, a coated' collar is uncomfortable to wear in warm weather as it does not allow perspiration of, the neck 'w to passthrough. `Such a collarfis alsojdiificult to launder properly for while the surfaces may be Washed, th'ebody of the collar cannot be thoroughly cleaned because' water will not pen- 4etrate it in theordinary laundering-operation. 65

Furthermore, it is apparent that the application of a cementitious solution, because of its adhesive nature, entails considerable diniculty and incon- -venience in handling the treated parts and fab- '-ricating the collars. Collarsof thatcharacter 'zo cannotv be made by usual turning method generally employedy incollar factories but have to lbe vmade byl a special method wherein the edges 'are untreated with the. adhesive andare subsequently turned as a separate operation vto .simulate the appearance of the customary inturned edges. Also,.i.n the case of-a folding co1- lar, the 'adhesive' binding material Vis lomitted 'along the region of the fold or hinge. l p

The accompanying drawingillustrates an eman 'A 4Figure 1 is a view ofthe collarlaid fiat-and unfolded, with 'a portion of the fabric broken awayto show the lining;

Figure 2 is a diagrammatic plan view of a piece of the lining, greatly magniiied;

Fig. 3 lis a view corresponding to Fig. 2 vand showing theflinng applied to the collar band,

portions of Athe -band being broken away to disclose the'liningand the inner ply; and

Fig, 4 is an enlarged section showing the collar folded.

Referring-now to the drawing, the mung ma,-

terial, one example of which is illustrated on a magnified scal in Fig., 2. consists of a woven fabric composed -of yarns or threads 1 of cotton.

or other suitable substance, and additional yarns or threads 2 of ar suitable cellulose 'derivative of such character as to be capable oiv being made cementitious by `'tressitment with a suitable solvent.

A The yarns 2'may be made-of v-any suitable celluderiv'atiyesuch as afc'ellulose ester, as, for example, cellulose acetate, or of a suitable cellu- 'loseethen as, for example, ethyl cellulose. In making' the yarns-2, the particular cellulose de- 'rivative selected may be used alone, or in connection with suitable plasticizers, or other substances-not necessarily plasticizers, which-will have a beneficial effect on the cellulose derivative, as, for instance, increasing its resistance to the alkaline detergents used in laundering.

While, preferably. the lining is .made of both cotton and cellulose, derivative yarns, it is to be understood that it may be made entirely of yarns of cellulose derivative substance.A Furthermore, while in the particular example illustrated I have shown the cellulose derivative yarn used only in the warp, it may be used both in the warp and the filler, or in the ller alone.

In certain cases, as, for example, where it is desired to bind and stiften only certain portions of the collar, such as the wings, points, or along the edges, the use of the cellulose derivative in the lining may be confined to those portions. and in such cases, if desired, ordinary lining material may be used ln the other portions of the collar.

In makingthe collar, the lining 3, and the two fabric pieces or plies 4 and 5 are cut or blanked out as usual, and are both laid on one side of the lining, and united along three edges by a line of stitching 6. The assemblage is then turned in the manner usual in the art to form turned-in edges and to bring the lining 3 on the inside in position betweenthe twofabric plies` 4 and 5.

The points ofthe collar are then pressed and the parts are again sewedtogether by the usual line of stitching 7, after which the .band 8 is attached in the usual mannerby the customary stitching 9. When the collar has in essentials been completely fabricated, it is treated with acetone,v

ethyl acetone, oi' any: other suitable solvent for the particular cellulose derivative used,4 which has the property ofrendering the cellulose derivative yarns 2 of the liningadhesive but which will not affect the cotton yarns l or the outerJ fabric plies of the collar. The solvent is applied from the outside and is allowed to soak into the lining through the outer fabric plies 4 and 5. yA convenlent way of applying the solvent is to place the 'collar between two pads that are kept moistened `or saturated with the solvent. Treatment with the y as solvent is continued for a sufhcient length of time to moisten' the cellulose derivative substance sufliclently to make itcementitious or adhesive. Heat and pressure are then applied to the collar vso as to bind the outer plies tothe lining and to A stiifen the collar. It will beunderstood that the I collar may be stiifened and cemented eitherA before or after it is attached to the collar band 8.

'In order that the collar shall be permeable to4 water and air, the weave of the lining is preferably so constructed, with respect to the diameter and spatial relation of the yarns. that when the cellulose derivative yarns are treated with the solvent, the substance of said yais will not film over and flll the lnterstices of the weave.

Usually the special lining material 3 is conned to the collar proper, theband 8 being lined with ordinary lining material. However, if desired, the

special lining material 3 may be used bothin the l collar proper and the band. Figs. 3 andA show a construction wherein the lining material 3 is applied both to the collar and to the band. The

band is of conventional construction comprising outer and inner fabric plies 10 and 1l, which plies are attached to the edge portion l2 of the collar proper, below the fold 13, bythe usual concealed stitches 14, as well as the exposed stitches 9. The lower edge of the band shown in these views is left free for attachment to the shirt, but it will be understood that in making a collar ofthe detached type, said lower edge may be finished as usual, It

will also be noted that thek lining 3 of the collar vthe lnherent'property of being made cemenproper extends over the fold line 13, whichmay commonly used and does not in any way interfere vwith carrying o ut the usual method of making the collar or other article of apparel.

A collar made according to this invention may be of any desired degree of stiffness but I prefer usually to make it of the stiffness commonly known in the art asysemistiif, that is, stiffer than the ordinary soft collar but not as stiff as a fully starched collar.

The method of cementing herein described, involving a binding agent which is used initially in a non-.cementitious state but which is made cementitious `by subsequent treatment, does not discolor or otherwise affect the appearance ofthe material of the cemented plies or parts.` This is important,

particularly in connection with the manufacture proposed, tends to discolor the `material andto 'producespotsoryblotches when the plies are pressed together. i l i According to the provisions of the patentstatutes, I havedescribed the principle and characteristics of my invention together with` the pre- ,ferred manner of practicing it and severalvariations-i and modifications thereof,` However. I desire tohave it understood that, within the scope of they appended claims, the inventionmay be practiced otherwise `than specifically described herein.` I p What'I claim is: y i l. A moisturepervious article of apparel of the together' by a fabric having woven therein a substance which is initially non-cementitious but has titious.. a n

2. Anarticle of apparel of the character described, made of fabric plies cemented togetherby a woven fabric comprising cellulose derivative '120 .character described; made of fabric plies cemented.

yarn of such character as to become cementitious upon treatment with a suitable solvent.

3. An article of apparel of the character described, made of fabric plies cemented together by a woven fabric comprising cellulose ester yarn of such character as'to become cementitious upon treatment with asuitable solvent. f 4. yAn article of apparel of the character described, made of fabric plies cemented together by a Woven fabric comprising cellulose ester yarns of such character as to become cementitious upon treatment with acetone. i i 5. A moisture and air permeable stiffened collar .or like article made of inner and outer.` fabric plies, and an intermediate woven lining comprising in its construction yarn of a cellulose derivative substance of such character as to become icementitious by treatment` with a solvent, said inner and outer fabric plies being cemented to the lining by the adhesion of the cellulose derivative substance of the lining. y y

6. A moisture pervious semi-stiff collar having outer and inner fabric plies cemented to an intermediate lining fabric having woven therein a substance which is initially non-cementitious, but which is capable of being made cementitious after the collar. isA in essentials completely fabricated so as to bind said outer and inner plies to the lining.

'1. A moisture pervious semi-stili' collar having outer andinner fabric plies cemented to an intermediate liningfabric, ysaid lining fabric having woven therein asubstance which is inherently capable of being made cementitious.

8. The process of cementing fabric parts of an article of apparel which comprises disposing between the parts to be cemented a piece of fabric woven with yarn made of a cellulose derivative substance, applying to said parts, from theoutside, a solvent which will penetrate through the fabric and make the cellulose derivative substance cementitious, and applying pressure to bind the parts together.

9. The process of cementing fabric parts of an article o! apparel which comprises disposing between the parts to be cemented a piece of fabric woven with yarn made of a cellulose ester, applying acetone to said parts, from the outside, so that the acetone will penetrate through the fabric and make the cellulose ester cementitious, and apply-l ing heat and pressure to bind the parts together.

10. A moisture pervious article of wearing apparel comprising plies of fabric stiilened and ad hesively secured together by an intermediate layer of textile lining material having cellulose derivative threads interwoven therewith.

11. A moisture pervious article of apparel comprising a plurality ofplies of fabric one or more of which has adhesive material interwoven therewith. y

12. A moisture pervious article of apparel comprising a pluralityof plies of 'fabric adheslvely secured together by means of adhesive material interwoven with one or more of said plies.

BENJAMIN LIEBOWITZ.

` DISCLAIMER l,968,410.-Be1tjamin Liebowitz, New York, N. Y. APPAREL.

l Patent dated July 31 ofAmemca.

4Hereb y enters this disclaimer to [ical Gazette June 13, 1939.]

claims l, 6, 7, 8, and 10 of said specication.

ies

iso

outer and inner fabric plies cemented to an intermediate lining fabric having woven therein a substance which is initially non-cementitious, but which is capable of being made cementitious after the collar. isA in essentials completely fabricated so as to bind said outer and inner plies to the lining.

BENJAMIN LIEBOWITZ.

` DISCLAIMER l,968,410.-Be1tjamin Liebowitz, New York, N. Y. APPAREL.

l Patent dated July 31 ofAmemca.

4Hereb y enters this disclaimer to [ical Gazette June 13, 1939.]

claims l, 6, 7, 8, and 10 of said specication.

ies

iso