US2083938A - Shoe - Google Patents

Description

F- BELYEA SHOE June 15, w37.

. Filed Nov. 9J 1956 Patented June 15, 1937 UNlTE TES ATENT OFFECFE SHOE Application November 9, ,1936,` Serial No. 109,917

1 Claim.

This invention relates to improvements in shoes.

More particularly it provides improvements in the juncture of upper, insole and Welt.

5 For many years the Goodyear welt type of construction having a rugged all-leather insole, has been generally accepted as the best available in high class footwear, although certain defects and shortcomings have always been recognized.

l The present invention employs the basic features of the Goodyear welt type of shoe but supplements, improves, and in some respects modilles them, so as to provide a shoe structure which is vbelieved to be superior to anything available l heretofore.

The invention provides an angular coordination of inseam stitches for eifecting securement of elements at the base of a shoe, thereby effectively to distribute service stresses to two or more I separated regions. This contributes to the production of a shoe structure which can retain its shapeliness throughout a long period of use.

It closes the open mouth of the crack, usually exposed between upper and welt; and in a prac- 5 ticable manner it covers this region with a ycontinuous surface oi upper leather to the extreme edge of the outsole. The punctures made for the stitching being plugged with wax and thread, this coverage makes the shoe waterproof, up to whatever standard of imperviousness the leather itself attains.

A feature resides in the attaining of the mentioned continuous surface of upper along with all of those advantages of a general nature which inhere in shoes having a welt as the primary means for securement of outsole.

A further feature is that the conspicuous display of inseam stitches exteriorly of the shoe. coupled with the continuity of upper visibly covering the region of the usual welt crease, give obvious assurance of the ruggedness and durability of the improved shoe.

Still another feature results from my novel coordination of inseam stitches, in that the lasting of the upper may be accomplished without any tacking of upper materials, including toe box stiiener, and the counter, whereby the only tacks or nails needed are the nails which secure the heel.

It is, moreover, an important feature that my shoe may be produced with present shoe machinery at a cost which compares favorably with the cost to produce better grade Goodyear welt shoes.

In attaining these results the invention employs 55 two distinct inseams and embodies them in angular relation to eachother, i. e. with the stitches of each extending at a considerable angle to the stitches of the other. One of these inseams preferably secures the upper against the edge of the insole; and the other inseam secures the welt ,3 to the insole, with its stitches passing through the upper, or not, depending on whether the upper extends to below the face oi' the welt, or not.

The inseam which secures the upper and its lining against the edge of the insole preferably is conspicuously exposed exteriorly of the shoe, and extends completely around the shoe.

In a preferred form, the edge portion of the leather of the upper is out-turned a little below said exposed inseam, so as to overlie the welt; l5 and the leather or canvas lining of the upper continues on downward to be caught by the second inseam, and may be turned thence inward against the under face of the insole.

Both lines of stitches are set in a single groove or channel in the under face of the insole, from which groove the stitches of the second or lower inseam extend obliquely downward, while the rst or upper inseam stitches, are more nearly horizontal, and mayincline slightly upward. The out-turned portion of vupper may either overlie or underlie the welt. In each case I avoid producing an open-mouthed crack by extending the upper material, parallel with the welt and outsole, continuously out to the edge of the out- 0 sole. When the out-turned portion of upper overlies the welt only the upper one of the two inseams passes through it. When it underlies the Welt both inseams bind it directly to the insole. In all cases the outsole is stitched t0 the welt in a conventional manner.

By stitching the upper to the edge of the insole the need for tacking in the lastingoperation is avoided. The edge portions of upper, lining, toe stifiener and counter may be trimmed away at the plane of the upper face of outsole, if desired.

The double inseam feature increases the ability of a shoe to retain its shapeliness in service; and also it produces a securement of elements at the base of the shoe in which the at parallel contiguity of outsole, welt and upper forbids the entrance of water between them.

The term shoes is used herein to cover all footwear of species to which the invention is applicable, whether it be of the species sometimes known as boots, or be called by other names.

It is intended that the patent shall cover, by suitable expression in the appended claim, whatever features of patentable novelty exist in the invention disclosed.

In the accompanying drawing:

Figure 1 is a side elevation of a shoe embodying features of the invention, the exterior aspect being approximately the same for each of the forms illustrated herein;

Figure 2 is a cross-sectional View on an enlarged scale, taken on the line 3-3 of Figure 1, of a fragment of one form of the improved shoe, at an incomplete stage;

Figure 3 is a cross-sectional View similar to Figure 2, but showing a completed shoe;

Figure 4 is a cross-sectional View of a shoe on the same scale as Figure 2, and taken on the line 4-4 of Figure 1; and l5 Figure 5 is a view, similar to Figure 4, of a slightly modied form.

Referring to the drawing, Figures 2-5 illustrate in detail shoe structures in each of which two distinct inseams coact in producing the shoe of the invention.

In Figures 2, 3, one of these inseams I0 secures the upper I2 and its lining I4 directly against a full thickness of edge of insole E6, these stitches I@ extending into the groove I8 of the insole and being visible exteriorly of the completed shoe, as seen in Figure 1.

A second inseam 20 secures the welt 22 to the insole, this latter inseam being comparable to that of the ordinary Goodyear welt shoe, except that it does not pass through the upper but only through the lining of the upper which is engaged between the welt and the insole.

The inseam Ill may accomplish the initial securement of upper, lining, toe box stiifener and counter to the insole in the lasting process, thereby eliminating the need for tacking, and resulting in a shoe which may be free of all tacks and nails excepting the nails which secure the heel on its seat. Figure 4 illustrates how the counter 24 intervening between upper and lining initially is made secure by the inseam I0 and also, ultimately, by the inseam 2B. The edge portion of the counter may be turned inward with the lining and be cemented over the insole groove when the latter is pounded closed, as seen in Figure 4; or the edge portion of counter which is in-turned in Figure 4 may be trimmed away as shown in Figure 5.

The insole I6 preferably will be of high grade leather, having quality and thickness comparable with what is usual in better grade shoes; and the edge is preserved at the full thickness of the insole stock, so that there can be a rm seating of upper and lining against this edge when the inseam I0 draws them tightly together. The usual facing 26, of canvas, duck or the like, may cover the under surface of the insole, and may extend as a lining within groove I8 for reinforcing the insole stock against the pull of the inseam stitches.

In Figures 2 5, the edge portion I3 of the upper is outturned to overlie the welt 22, thereby to cover the usual welt crease or crack at the base of the shoe through which Water may enter above the outsole. This out-turned portion of upper and the underlying welt are later stitched to the outsole by the usual stitches 29.

The exterior aspect of the finished shoe is seen in Figure 1. When the edge of the outsole has been waxed and polished the cleavages of welt, upper and outsole become obscured. In each case a usual iiller 34 may be employed between insole and outsole. The inseam threads preferably are heavily coated with wax. The stitching being done in the presence of heat, accumulations of wax stripped from the threads seal all perforations.

The shoe thus constructed tends to repel entrance of moisture; has improved qualities of strength and durability; and persists in retaining original shapeliness.

I claim as my invention:

A shoe, having an insole, upper, welt and outsole, in which a portion of the upper is outturned and overlies the welt, and in which one inseam, slightly above said out-turned portion of the upper, secures the upper to the edge of the insole; and in which another inseam secures the Welt to the insole; there being also means securing the outsole and said out-turned portion of upper to the welt.

FRED BELYEA.

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