US1669160A - Mckay-sewed welt shoe and method of making the same - Google Patents

Description

May 8, 1928. 1,669,160

F. L. ELLISON MCKRY SEWED WELT SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed June 24. 1927 Patented MayB, 1928. i

UNITED 'sTA ronnnsr vL. ELLISON, or nxnrna nnw rmivrrsnmnwassrenon on ons-item ro FRANK B. REDMANyfOFEXETER, NEW HAMPSHIRE. .1

MoKAY-SEWED wnr'r SHOE AND ivrn'rnonorl axine rim sailing Application filed Tune 24,

l The object otthisinventiorr is to provide a McKay-sewed shoe inwhlch advantageous features of an ordinary;McKay shoe, a Goodyearwelt'shoe, and a turned shoe, as ordinarily constructed, are combined, at an expense considerably 11 3mm that involved, in making either a "Goodyear. welt or a turned shoe. l v Q I attain this object bythe improved construction and method hereinafter described and claimed 1 Of the accompanying drawings ltoriningf a part'of thisespecification,{- j

Figure 1 is a fragmentary perspective view, showing portions of the insole and welt or a shoe constructed in accordance with theinvention. .t ,7 I

Figure 2 is fragmentary vperspective view, showing the welted inside portion shown by Figure 1, and portions of an upper and a,last. i a

Figure 8 is a fragmentary perspective View, showing portions of a bottom filler and an o-utsole applied to the assemblage shown by Figure 2, the last being omitted.

The same reference characters indicate the same parts in all of the figures.

In the drawings, 12 designates an insole, and 13 a welt laid on the outer side of the insole with its outer margin substantially flush with the margin of the insole, the width of the welt being such that its inner edge portion is adapted to receive inner stitches 14, passing through the welt and the insole, its central portion is adapted to receive curved inseam stitches 15, and its outer edge portion is adapted to receive Mc- Kay stitches 16, the central and outer edge portions being located outside the inner stitches which pass through theinner edge portion of the welt.

After the attachment of the welt, the in and temporarily sole is applied to a last 17,

An upper 18 is secured thereto by tacks.

then applied right side out, by the usual lasting operation, to the last and insole, the inturned margin of the upper being la d on the welt. The upper may betemporarily secured by tacks driven through the near ginal portion, thewelt, and the insole, into the last, as in the lasting operation employed in making Goodyear welt shoes. The marginal portion of the upper s then united to the welt by the curved inseam stitches 15, formed y a curved needle liability to squeak.

1927. Serial u 201,089.

stitcher, saidfstitches being intorlockedwitli Y the innerstitches. l

The bottom "s then, pounded down and a bottomifiller 19, of anysuitable nature, is v i applied to the portiono'f the insole exposed.

within the welt and the marginal portion of the upper,- a shank stiffener being introducc'd at'the shank portion, if desired.

An outsole ZOis then laid on then iarginal portion of the, upper and, preferably cemented thereto,l the outsole; having the;

usual, McKaystitclrreceiying, channel coy-f ered by alip 21. The parts thus assembled are thenremoved from the last, and the out sole is secured by theI'McKay-Stitches 16,. laid in the channehwhile the lip 21 is displaced, the stitches passing through the outsole,,the; marginal portion of the upper, the outered'ge portion ofthe welt, ,a'ndthe in solo; the lip 21 being then closed and the bottom finished, as usual in a [McKay-sewed The shoe thus constructedhas the following advantages over an Ordinary/McKay shoe;

T here are no tacks in the completed shoe to work into the foot-receiving space. The shoe may be inexpensively made,-by using a leatherboar'd insole and a leather welt, the stitches 14, 15 and 16 beingall engaged with the welt, which, when made or the usual welt leather, provides a suitable anchorage for the stitches, although the insole is made of cheaper and less eflicient anchor- 1H0 sec iuence of the fact that the welt is stitched to the insole, the upper is stitched to the welt, and the outsole is stitched through the upper, the welt and the insole, there are two seriesof stitches, viz, the stitches 15 and 16, directly engaged with the upper and preventing it from being ripped away.

It is feasible toprovide the outsole with a feather edge, as in a turn shoe, and the shoe when provided with this form-of edge, can be tapped, which cannot be said of a turned shoe. I have found that a. shoe thus constructed, excludes moisture better than an ordinary McKay shoe, and is free from The welt when made of leather, is prefer materiahsuch as leatherboard. In con ably provided in the outer side of its cenw tral portion with a longitudinal groove 23, which permits the portions of the upper en? gaged by the inseam stitches 15 to sink into the Wel so th the'pcrtions 1? said. stitches l. A McKay-sewed welt shoe, comprising an insole, a welt laid on the outer side oi the insole with its outer margin substantially th sh with the margin of the insole, inner stitches uniting the welt to the insole and located nearer the inner than the outer inargin of the welt. the width and location of the welt being such that its inner edge portion receives the inner stitches, and its central portion and. outer edge portion are located outside the inner stitches, an upper having an inturned marginal portion laid on the Welt, curved inseam stitches uniting the marginal portion of the upper to the central portion of the welt, and interlocked with the inner stitches, anoutsole laid on the marginal portion of the upper, and McKay stitches passing through the outsole, the'marginal portion or the upper, the outer edge portion of the welt,,and the insole.

I 2. A McKay-sewed welt shoe as specified by claim 1, the welt having a groove in the outer side of its central portion, permitting the portions or the upper'eiiga'ged by the inseam stitches to sink into the welt, so that the portions of said stitches formed on the upper, are correspondingly sunken and do not form projections on the marginal portion of theupper.

3. That improvement in the method of making a McKay-sewed welt shoe, Which consists in applying a welt to an insole with its outer margin substantially flush with the margin of the insole, uniting the welt to the insole by inner stitches passing through the inner edge portion of the welt and the insole, the central and outer portions of the welt being outside the inner stitches, applying the insole to'a last, ap-' plying the upper to the last andinsole with the marginal portion of the upper inturned on the welt, uniting the marginal portion of the upper to the welt by curved inseam stitches passing through the centralportion of the welt and interlocked With the inner stitches, removing the upper and insole from the last, applying a bottom filler to the exposed portion of the insole, laying an out sole on the filler and on the marginal portion of the upper, and securing the outso'le by McKay stitches bassing through the outsole, the marginal portion of the upper, the oulte'r edge portion of the Welt, and the inso e.

In testimony whereof I have atiixed my signature.

FORREST L. ELLISON.

Images