US20200352309A1 - Process for applying a cosmetic composition comprising a rotary applicator - Google Patents
Process for applying a cosmetic composition comprising a rotary applicator Download PDFInfo
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- US20200352309A1 US20200352309A1 US16/955,579 US201816955579A US2020352309A1 US 20200352309 A1 US20200352309 A1 US 20200352309A1 US 201816955579 A US201816955579 A US 201816955579A US 2020352309 A1 US2020352309 A1 US 2020352309A1
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
-
- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B05—SPRAYING OR ATOMISING IN GENERAL; APPLYING FLUENT MATERIALS TO SURFACES, IN GENERAL
- B05D—PROCESSES FOR APPLYING FLUENT MATERIALS TO SURFACES, IN GENERAL
- B05D3/00—Pretreatment of surfaces to which liquids or other fluent materials are to be applied; After-treatment of applied coatings, e.g. intermediate treating of an applied coating preparatory to subsequent applications of liquids or other fluent materials
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/26—Optical properties
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/87—Application Devices; Containers; Packaging
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
- A61K2800/884—Sequential application
Definitions
- This invention has for object a process for applying compositions on keratin fibers.
- compositions for the eyes also called “mascaras” for eyelashes
- a receptacle comprising a reservoir provided with a squeezing device and an application member, in particular in the form of a brush or a comb, and are applied by sampling the product in the reservoir using the application member, passing of the application member through the squeezing device in order to remove the excess product, then putting the application member impregnated with mascara in contact with the eyelashes.
- the sought properties for the mascaras are adjusted, such as for example their fluidity, their lengthening power and/or their curling power.
- the sought properties for the mascaras are adjusted, such as for example their fluidity, their lengthening power and/or their curling power.
- various compositions that, applied in particular on the eyelashes, induce varied effects of the lengthening, curling and/or thickening (loading effect) type of the eyelashes.
- compositions that, when they are applied on the eyelashes with the suitable application member, make it possible to effectively accumulate layers, while keeping intact the first layer (i.e. without pulling it off or damaging it), or mixing the layers together.
- a makeup process for eyelashes that makes it possible to obtain particular, in particular color, effects. Such effects are in particular an overlaying of mascaras of two different colors without mixing them, or a deposit of a coating layer discontinuously on a first layer, in order to view said first layer.
- the inventors discovered that the properties described hereinabove can be obtained by using a process comprising firstly the application of a composition with a keratin fiber base; then the application of a coating composition of the composition with a keratin fiber base, the application of the coating composition comprising the driving in rotation of an application member with respect to a gripping member, by displacing the application member on said keratin fibers, the application member being impregnated with said coating composition of the base composition.
- the application of the aforementioned coating composition with an application member in free rotation with respect to the gripping member makes it possible to deposit successive layers, without the need of waiting for the first layer (i.e. of the base composition) to be dry.
- This accumulation of layers makes it possible to obtain effects that are not achieved with the conventional application of several layers of products and this in a practical manner, by successively applying, without waiting time, the base composition layer and the coating composition layer.
- the application of the aforementioned coating composition with an application member in free rotation with respect to the gripping member makes it possible to keep the first layer intact.
- a multi-layer deposit without mixing different layers together is as such obtained.
- the invention has for object a process for applying a coating composition on keratin fibers, comprising the following steps:
- the method according to the invention comprises one or more of the following features, taken alone or in any technically possible combination:
- FIG. 1 is a diagrammatical view as a longitudinal cross-section of a device for a packaging and application device for a coating composition of the base composition of a requisite according to the invention, with the applicator being mounted onto the receptacle;
- FIG. 2 is a diagrammatical view as a longitudinal cross-section showing a first linear contact region between the rod carrier and the gripping member of the device in FIG. 1 ;
- FIG. 3 is a diagrammatical view as a longitudinal cross-section of a second linear contact region between the rod carrier and the gripping member of the device in FIG. 1 ;
- FIG. 4 is a diagrammatical view as a transverse cross-section of contact tongues defining the second contact region of the device in FIG. 1 ;
- FIG. 5 is a diagrammatic view in elevation of the rod carrier of the device in FIG. 1 ;
- FIG. 6 is an outside diagrammatical view of the gripping member of the device of FIG. 1 ;
- FIG. 7 is a sectional diagrammatical view along a median plane of the gripping member of the device in FIG. 1 ;
- FIG. 8 is a diagrammatical view in perspective of a first application member of the packaging device of FIG. 1 ;
- FIG. 9 is an axial diagrammatical view of the application member of the device of FIG. 8 ;
- FIG. 10 is a diagrammatical view in perspective of a second application member of the packaging device of FIG. 1 ;
- FIGS. 11 and 12 are photos showing the results of a comparative example between a process for applying according to the invention and a process using only one non-rotary applicator.
- a requisite for application according to the invention comprises a system for applying able to apply a base composition on keratin fibers, and a device 10 for packaging and applying a coating composition of the base composition on keratin fibers.
- Said system for applying typically comprises a receptacle intended to contain the base composition, and an applicator.
- the system for applying is for example identical to the device 10 described in what follows.
- the base composition shall be described following the description of the requisite for application.
- FIGS. 1 to 9 A first embodiment of the device 10 for packaging and applying a coating composition of the base composition is shown in FIGS. 1 to 9 .
- the device 10 comprises a receptacle 12 intended to contain the coating composition of the base composition, and an applicator 14 removably mounted on the receptacle 12 and able to apply the coating composition of the base composition.
- the keratin fibers are typically eyelashes.
- the coating composition of the base composition is then a coating composition of eyelashes. This coating composition of eyelashes shall be described following the description of the requisite for application.
- the device 10 advantageously has a generally cylindrical shape extending along a longitudinal axis A.
- the terms “longitudinal” and “radial” generally mean in relation to the longitudinal axis A.
- the receptacle 12 comprises a hollow body 26 , able to contain the coating composition, and a threaded neck 30 protruding outwards from the body 26 by defining an access opening 28 for the product.
- the receptacle 12 also comprises a squeezing device 32 inserted into the neck 30 .
- the applicator 14 comprises a gripping member 16 , extending along the longitudinal axis A, a rod carrier 18 , arranged in the gripping member 16 and mounted freely mobile in rotation about the longitudinal axis A with respect to the gripping member 16 .
- the applicator 14 also comprises a blocking device 19 that opposes the translation along the axis A of the rod carrier 18 with respect to the gripping member 16 , a rod 20 integral with the rod carrier 18 , a system for the selective blocking in rotation 24 of the rod carrier 18 with respect to the gripping member 16 , and a first application member 22 A of the coating composition ( FIGS. 8 and 9 ) carried by the rod 20 .
- the applicator 14 is mounted mobile between an idle position, wherein is mounted on the recipient 12 , the rod 20 and the first application member 22 A being engaged at least partially in the receptacle 12 , and a usage position, in which the rod 20 and the first application member 22 A are extracted outside of the receptacle 12 .
- the applicator 14 is maintained fixed on the receptacle 12 for example by screwing on the neck 30 .
- the gripping member 16 comprises a cover 34 and a plug 36 , with the plug 36 here added on the cover 34 .
- the cover 34 has a shape of revolution about the longitudinal axis A. It is for example cylindrical.
- the cover 34 comprises a peripheral wall 38 about the longitudinal axis A. It extends between a distal edge 40 intended to be placed facing the receptacle 12 in an idle position of the applicator 14 , and a proximal edge 42 intended to be placed apart from the receptacle 12 in the idle position of the applicator 14 .
- the cover 34 is hollow, and defines an inner surface 44 that delimits an inner volume 46 .
- the inner surface 44 of the cover 34 has a circumferential shoulder 50 of the bearing of the plug 36 , shown in FIG. 2 , and a protrusion 52 for maintaining the plug 36 in position against the shoulder 50 .
- the cover 34 comprises a transverse wall 54 , that extends radially from the inner surface 44 of the cover 34 .
- the transverse wall 54 is arranged longitudinally apart from the proximal edge 42 . It defines a plurality of radial slots 56 .
- the radial slots 56 delimit between them at least two contact tongues 58 .
- the gripping member 16 here comprises three contact tongues 58 .
- Each tongue 58 radially protrudes from the peripheral wall 38 , and more precisely, from the inner surface 44 of the cover 34 .
- Each tongue 58 defines a free inside edge 60 , directed towards the longitudinal axis A.
- the free edge 60 has an inner chamfer that converges towards the axis A in the direction away from the rod 20 to the plug 36 .
- the plug 36 is securely fastened to the cover 34 . It closes the cover 34 on its proximal edge 42 .
- the plug 36 comprises a sealing wall 62 , a peripheral ring 64 for mounting in the cover 34 and an inner sleeve 66 for guiding the rod carrier 18 .
- the peripheral ring 64 protrudes from the periphery of a distal face 70 of the sealing wall 62 .
- the peripheral ring 64 comprises at least one attaching stop 72 , for example four attaching stops 72 distributed angularly about the longitudinal axis A.
- the peripheral ring 64 is arranged in abutment against the shoulder 50 of the cover 34 .
- Each attaching stop 72 cooperates with the protrusion 52 , in order to removably immobilize the plug 36 with respect to the cover 34 and provide an aesthetic aspect.
- a proximal face 68 of the sealing wall 62 is flush with the proximal edge 42 of the cover 34 .
- the inner sleeve 66 protrudes longitudinally in the cover 34 from the distal face 70 of the sealing wall 62 .
- the inner sleeve 66 delimits an internal cavity 74 and a bulge 76 that protrudes radially towards the longitudinal axis A in the internal cavity 74 .
- the inner sleeve 66 is for example made of acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS), polyoxymethylene (POM), polyethylene (PE), or polypropylene (PP).
- ABS acrylonitrile butadiene styrene
- POM polyoxymethylene
- PE polyethylene
- PP polypropylene
- the rod carrier 18 is for example made from polybutylene terephthalate (PBT), polyoxymethylene (POM) or polypropylene (PP).
- PBT polybutylene terephthalate
- POM polyoxymethylene
- PP polypropylene
- the rod carrier 18 comprises a longitudinal guiding segment 78 , extending between a proximal end 80 and a distal end 82 , and a head 84 for mounting on the receptacle 12 .
- the longitudinal segment 78 extends in the internal volume 46 along the longitudinal axis A.
- the proximal end 80 is received in the internal cavity 74 defined by the inner sleeve 66 .
- the rod carrier 18 as such has, on the bulge 76 , a first linear contact region 86 with the gripping member 16 .
- the first linear contact region 86 is a circumferential linear contact region about the longitudinal axis A.
- the bulge 76 is continuous in the circumferential direction.
- the first linear contact region 86 of the rod carrier 18 is as such also continuous in the circumferential direction.
- the bulge 76 and/or the rod carrier in the first linear contact region is (are) discontinuous in the circumferential direction.
- the first linear contact region 86 of the rod carrier 18 is as such advantageously discontinuous in the circumferential direction.
- the longitudinal segment 78 has, on the first contact region 86 , a maximum diameter D 1 .
- the maximum diameter D 1 is, advantageously between 1.5 mm and 5 mm, in particular between 2.0 mm and 3 mm.
- the longitudinal segment 78 also defines a circumferential groove 88 about the longitudinal axis A opening radially opposite the longitudinal axis A.
- the longitudinal segment 78 comprises, at its distal end 82 , a flared portion 89 A that has an outer chamfer 89 B.
- the circumferential groove 88 is defined in the flared portion 89 A of the longitudinal segment 78 , between the outer chamfer 89 B and the head for mounting 84 .
- the circumferential groove 88 receives the free edge 60 of each contact tongue 58 of the gripping member 16 .
- the contact tongues 58 facilitate the assembly of the rod carrier 18 with the gripping member 16 , via their snap-fitting into the circumferential groove 88 .
- This assembly is easily obtained by relative translation along the axis A of the gripping member 16 with respect to the rod carrier 18 , generating an axial deformation of the contact tongues 56 .
- the cooperation between the inner chamfer on the free end 60 of each contact tongue 58 and the outer chamfer 89 B facilitates the snap-fitting.
- the longitudinal extend of the groove 88 taken along the axis A, is greater than the longitudinal extent of the free edge 60 , taken along the same axis A by at least 10%.
- the rod carrier 18 has, on the free edge 60 of each contact tongue 58 , a second linear contact region 90 with the gripping member 16 .
- the second linear contact region 90 is a circumferential linear contact region.
- the contact tongues 58 are discontinuous in the circumferential direction by being separated from each other by the slots 56 .
- the second linear contact region 90 of the rod carrier 18 is as such also continuous in the circumferential direction.
- the rod carrier 18 has a contact tongue 58 that is continuous in the circumferential direction forming a continuous annular flange, made of a flexible material in order to allow for the snap-fitting of the rod carrier or associated with a washer for blocking in translation along the axis A integral with the rod carrier 18 .
- Those skilled in the art will be able to determine the material to be chosen for the contact tongue 58 in order to have sufficient flexibility to allow for the snap-fitting of the rod carrier 18 , according to the material chosen for the latter.
- the second linear contact region 90 of the rod carrier 18 is as such also continuous in the circumferential direction.
- the first linear contact region 86 and the second linear contact region 90 are separated by a minimum distance I.
- the minimum distance I is, for example, greater than 20 mm and is preferably between 23 mm and 60 mm.
- the minimum distance I is greater than or equal to two times the average diameter between the diameter D 1 of the rod carrier 18 in the first linear contact region 86 and the diameter of the rod carrier 18 in the second linear contact region 90 .
- the first linear contact region 86 has a contact length 11 taken along the longitudinal axis A less than 5%, preferably less than 2% of the minimum distance I separating along the axis A the first linear contact region 86 and the second linear contact region 90 .
- the contact length 11 is as such less than 1 mm, and preferably between 0.05 mm and 0.5 mm.
- the second linear contact region 90 has a contact length 12 taken along the longitudinal axis A less than 5%, preferably less than 2% of the minimum distance I separating along the axis A the first linear contact region 86 and the second linear contact region 90 .
- the circumferential groove 88 has a maximum diameter D 2 .
- the maximum diameter D 2 is, for example, between 5.50 mm and 6 mm.
- the contact length 12 is as such less than 1 mm, and preferably between 0.05 mm and 0.5 mm.
- the longitudinal segment 78 has an intermediate region 92 , shown in FIG. 1 , defined between the first linear contact region 86 and the second linear contact region 90 .
- the rod carrier 18 is arranged entirely separated from the gripping member 16 . More particularly, in the intermediate region 92 , the rod carrier 18 and the gripping member 16 define a radial gap, measured perpendicularly to the longitudinal axis A, at least equal to 5%, preferably at least equal to 10%, and more preferably at least equal to 50% of the maximum thickness presented by the rod carrier 18 , over at least 50% of the length of the intermediate region 92 taken along the longitudinal axis A.
- the rod carrier 18 and the gripping member 16 have a functional radial gap between them in the first circumferential linear contact region 86 and/or in the second circumferential linear contact region 90 .
- this functional radial gap is less than 0.5 mm, and more preferably less than 0.2 mm and in particular in the neighborhood of 0.1 mm.
- a gap in the radial direction exists on either side of the rod carrier 18 , between the rod carrier 18 and the gripping member 16 , in the first circumferential linear contact region 86 and/or in the second circumferential linear contact region 90 , with this gap substantially corresponding to half of the aforementioned functional radial gap.
- the rod carrier 18 and the gripping member 16 define a radial gap, i.e. a gap in the radial direction, greater than or equal to 1.1 times, preferably 1.5 times, the functional radial gap defined between the rod carrier 18 and the gripping member 16 in the first circumferential linear contact region 86 and/or in the second circumferential linear contact region 90 , over at least 50% of the length of the intermediate region 92 taken along the longitudinal axis A.
- the term “radial gap” in the intermediate region 92 between the rod carrier 18 and the gripping member 16 here means the distance in the radial direction that separates the rod carrier 18 and the gripping member 16 on the intermediate region 92 , when these two elements are arranged coaxially.
- the functional radial gap between the rod carrier 18 and the gripping member 16 in the first circumferential linear contact region 86 and/or in the second circumferential linear contact region 90 is for example 0.1 mm
- the radial gap between the rod carrier 18 and the gripping member 16 in the intermediate region 92 , on one side and the other of the longitudinal axis A when the rod carrier 18 and the gripping member 16 are arranged coaxially is greater than or equal to 0.11 mm, and preferably greater than or equal to 0.15 mm.
- the head for mounting 84 of the rod carrier 18 comprises a central ring 93 for fastening the rod 20 and a connecting skirt 94 protruding around the central ring 93 .
- the connecting skirt 94 extends to the distal edge 40 of the cover 34 , from the distal end 82 of the longitudinal segment 78 .
- the ring 94 and the longitudinal segment 78 define a central housing 104 .
- the central housing 104 extends to the proximal end 80 of the rod carrier 18 until a bottom 106 , arranged longitudinally beyond the circumferential groove 88 of the longitudinal segment 78 .
- the blocking device 19 is configured to limit the relative translation along the axis A of the rod carrier with respect to the gripping member to a functional gap between these elements.
- This functional gap is preferably less than 2 mm, in particular less than 1 mm and in particular in the neighborhood of 0.7 mm, even in the neighborhood of 0.5 mm.
- first and second axial stop surfaces 108 A, 1088 are adjacent along the axis A at one at least of the first and second contact regions 86 , 90 .
- the first axial stop surface 108 A is as such formed by a shoulder defined in the flared portion 89 A by the circumferential groove 88
- the second stop surface 108 B is formed by a proximal surface of the transverse wall 54 of the cover 34 , on the free edge 60 .
- the rod 20 is added in the central housing 104 .
- FIGS. 5 to 7 The system for the selective blocking in rotation 24 of the rod carrier 18 with respect to the gripping member 16 is shown in FIGS. 5 to 7 .
- the blocking system 24 can be maneuvered between an inactive configuration, in which the rod carrier 18 is freely rotating about the longitudinal axis A, and an active configuration, in which the rod carrier 18 is entirely blocked in rotation with respect to the gripping member 16 .
- the term total blocking here means a “frank” contact of elements abutting against one another, and not only a friction contact.
- the blocking system 24 comprises splines 112 formed on the rod carrier 18 , and at least one flexible tab 114 able to cooperate with the splines 112 . It comprises, for each flexible tab 114 , a flexible hinge 116 for connecting the flexible tab 114 to the cover 34 of the gripping member 16 .
- each flexible tab 114 , the flexible hinge 116 and the cover 34 are advantageously from the same material.
- the splines 112 which can be seen in FIG. 5 , are arranged on an external peripheral surface of the rod carrier 18 .
- the splines 112 are arranged on an outer surface 98 of the connecting ring 94 of the rod carrier 18 .
- Each flexible tab 114 is mounted mobile on the gripping member 16 .
- the cut is here of a rounded shape, for example in the shape of a C.
- Each flexible tab 114 comprises at least one locking cog 118 radially protruding towards the axis A.
- the locking cog 118 is able to be inserted into a spline 112 in the active configuration of blocking, in order to block the rod carrier 18 in rotation with respect to the gripping member 16 . It is arranged entirely apart from the splines 112 in the deactivated configuration.
- the first application member 22 A is also designated by the term “brush” in what follows.
- the first application member 22 A is made of elastomer.
- the first application member 22 A is fixed to the free end of the rod 20 .
- the first application member 22 A comprises a support body 120 and a plurality of pins 122 formed on an outer surface 124 of the support body 120 , the pins 122 being formed on the outer surface 124 in the form of rows.
- the first application member 22 A advantageously has an axial symmetry along the longitudinal axis A.
- the first application member 22 A comprises an even number of rows of pins.
- the number of rows of pins is here equal to 12. Alternatively, the number of rows of pins is greater than or equal to 8, and advantageously between 8 and 16.
- the support body 120 has a substantially circular section transversal to the longitudinal axis A.
- the transversal section of the support body 120 has a diameter between 1.5 mm and 4 mm.
- the support body 120 is made of elastomer.
- the support body 120 is for example made of hytrel, SEBS or polypropylene (PP).
- Each pin 122 has a substantially conical shape of revolution.
- each pin 122 On the outer surface 124 of the support body 120 , each pin 122 has a section with a diameter between 0.1 mm and 1 mm.
- the pins 122 of the same row have the same section taken on the outer surface 124 of the support body 120 . More generally, all of the pins 122 of the first application member 22 A have the same section taken on the outer surface 124 of the support body 120 .
- Each pin 122 has a height greater than 2 mm, advantageously between 1.5 mm and 5 mm.
- the pins 122 of the same row have an identical height. More generally, all of the pins 122 of the first application member 22 A have an identical height.
- Each pin 122 extends from the outer surface 124 along a predetermined direction perpendicular to the longitudinal axis A.
- the predetermined direction of a pin is a straight line passing through the middle of any section of said pin parallel to the longitudinal axis A.
- the pins 122 of the same row have predetermined parallel directions.
- Each pin 122 is as a single piece with the support body 120 , each pin 122 is then made of elastomer. Alternatively at least one portion of the pins 122 is made from a material different from that of the support body 120 by overmolding on the support body 120 .
- Each row of pins extends parallel to the longitudinal axis A.
- Each row of pins has a length greater than 2 mm.
- Each row of pins comprises a number of pins 122 greater than 20 and advantageously between 30 and 50.
- the difference between two adjacent pins of the same row is between 1% and 10% of the height of the pins 122 .
- the difference between two adjacent pins of the same row is identical for all of the rows of the first application member 22 A.
- a first row 126 of pins is arranged adjacent to a second row 128 of pins, and a third row 130 of pins is arranged adjacent to the second row 128 of pins. Two rows of pins are considered to be adjacent if no row of pins is arranged between these two rows.
- the second row 128 of pins comprises one pin 122 less than the first row 126 of pins.
- the first row 126 of pins and the third row 130 of pins comprise the same number of pins 122 . They comprise here 21 pins.
- two rows of the first application member 22 A separated by a single row of pins comprise the same number of pins 122 .
- the second row 128 comprises a number of pins equal to the number of pins 122 of the rows adjacent to the first row 126 and to the third row 130 . These rows here comprise 20 pins.
- At least one pin of the second row 128 is arranged axially along the longitudinal axis A between two adjacent pins of the first row 126 .
- all of the pins 122 of the first row 126 are axially offset along the longitudinal axis A relative to the pins 122 of the second row 128 by a predetermined distance taken on the outer surface 124 of the support body 120 .
- the predetermined distance is greater than 1% of the height of the pins 122 .
- each pin of the second row 128 is located midway axially along the longitudinal axis A of two adjacent pins 122 of the first row 126 .
- the predetermined distance is substantially equal to half the sum of the diameter of a pin and of the difference between two adjacent pins 122 , said difference and said diameter being taken on the outer surface 124 of the support body 120 .
- the predetermined directions of the pins 122 of the second row 128 are contained in the angular sector defined by the predetermined directions of the pins 122 of the first row 126 and the predetermined directions of the pins 122 of the third row 130 .
- Each pin 122 of the first row 126 is axially positioned, along the longitudinal axis A, at the same position as a pin of the third row 130 .
- the third row 130 is not axially offset with respect to the first row 126 .
- two rows of the first application member 22 A separated by a single row of pins 122 are not axially offset with respect to one another.
- each pin of the second row 128 is as such axially positioned, along the longitudinal axis A, at the same position as a pin of the rows adjacent to the first row 126 and to the third row 130 .
- the distance, taken on the outer surface 124 , between a pin of the first row 126 and at least one pin of the third row 130 is less than 30% of the height of the pins 122 .
- the distance between a pin of the first row 126 and the pin of the third row 130 axially positioned at the same position is less than the diameter of the section of the pins 122 , said distance and said section being taken on the outer surface 124 .
- each pin of the second row 128 of pins is arranged between pins of the first row 126 and pins on the third row 130 , preferably in the middle of the pins of the first row 126 and pins of the third row 130 .
- the predetermined direction of each pin of the second row 128 is the bisector of the angle formed between the predetermined direction of a pin of the first row 126 and the predetermined direction of a pin of the third row 130 .
- each pin of the second row 128 is arranged staggered with two adjacent pins of the first row 126 and two adjacent pin of the third row 130 .
- each pin of a row that has one pin less than its adjacent rows is arranged staggered with two adjacent pins of one of its rows and two adjacent pins of the other of its adjacent rows.
- the rod carrier 18 has at least two linear contact regions with the gripping member providing a free rotation and guided with respect to the gripping member.
- the base composition is also called eyelash makeup base or “base coat” in this application.
- the coating composition of the base composition is a composition to be applied on a mascara, also called “top coat” in this application.
- the base composition and the coating composition of the base composition each comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a non-toxic medium and able to be applied on keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes, in particular compatible with the eye area.
- the bas composition and the coating composition of the base composition, according to the invention are preferably each a mascara.
- mascara denotes a composition intended to be applied on the eyelashes: this can be an eyelash makeup composition, or a cosmetic treatment composition of the eyelashes.
- the coating composition according to the invention provides the makeup with specific properties.
- this coating composition can comprise at least one dye, in order to provide specific color effects. It can also comprise at least one film-forming polymer, in order to provide the makeup with stability.
- the base composition and/or the coating composition according to the invention can comprise an aqueous phase.
- this invention comprises a base composition comprising an aqueous phase, and a coating phase also comprising an aqueous phase.
- the base composition according to the invention has a dry extract content greater than or equal to 35%.
- the coating composition according to the invention has a dry extract content greater than or equal to 40%.
- dry extract content means the content in non-volatile matter.
- the quantity of dry extract of a composition according to the invention is measured using a commercial halogen dessicator “HALOGEN MOISTURE ANALYZER HR 73” from METTLER TOLEDO. The measurement is taken based on the loss of weight of a sample dried by halogen heating and therefore represents the percentage of residual material once the water and volatile materials have evaporated.
- the measurement protocol is as follows:
- the composition hereinafter the sample
- a metal cup which is inserted into the halogen dessicator mentioned hereinabove.
- the sample is then subjected to a temperature of 105° C. until a constant weight is obtained.
- the Wet Mass of the sample, corresponding to its initial mass, and the Dry Mass of the sample, corresponding to its mass after halogen heating, are measured using a precision balance.
- the experimental error linked to the measurement is about plus or minus 2%.
- the Dry Extract content is calculated in the following way:
- the base composition according to the invention has a content in dry extract greater than or equal to 35%, preferably greater than 37%, better greater than or equal to 40%, even better, greater than 41%, even better, greater than 43%, able to range up to 60%.
- the coating composition according to the invention has a content in dry extract greater than or equal to 40%, preferably greater than 41%, even better, greater than 42%, able to range up to 60%.
- the base composition according to the invention and/or the coating composition according to the invention comprise an aqueous phase.
- the base composition according to the invention and the coating composition according to the invention each comprise an aqueous phase.
- they also each comprise at least 30% by weight of water with respect to the total weight of the composition.
- the base composition according to the invention and the coating composition according to the invention each comprise a continuous aqueous phase.
- continuous aqueous phase means that the composition has a conductivity, measured at 25° C., greater than 23 ⁇ S/cm (microSiemens/cm), with the conductivity being measured for example using a Mettler Toledo MPC227 conductometer and an Inlab730 conductivity measuring cell. The measuring cell is immersed in the composition, in such a way as to remove air bubbles that can form between the two electrodes of the cell. Reading the conductivity is done as soon as the value of the conductometer has stabilized. An average is taken over at least three successive measurements.
- the aqueous phase can be comprised primarily of water; it can also comprise a mixture of water and water-miscible solvent (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25° C.) such as lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones, C2-C4 aldehydes and mixtures thereof.
- water-miscible solvent miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25° C.
- the aqueous phase (water and possibly the water-miscible solvent) is present in each composition in a content at least equal to 40% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least equal to 43% by weight, preferably at least equal to 45% by weight.
- the aqueous phase (water and possibly the water-miscible solvent) is present in each composition in a content between 40% and 65% by weight of the total weight of the composition, preferably between 43% and 60% by weight, preferably between 45% and 60% by weight.
- each aqueous phase comprises at least 40% by weight of water with respect to the total weight of the composition.
- the base composition according to the invention and/or the coating composition according to the invention can comprise a gelling agent of the aqueous phase.
- the gelling agents of the aqueous phase that can be used can be chosen from:
- the gelling agent of the aqueous phase may be present in the base composition according to the invention and/or the coating composition according to the invention in a dry matter content ranging from 0.4 to 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, and better from 0.5% to 5% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
- the base composition according to the invention and/or the coating composition according to the invention can comprise at least one surfactant.
- This surfactant can be present in particular in a proportion ranging from 2% to 20%, and better from 3% to 15% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
- an emulsifier suitable chosen for obtaining a wax-in-water emulsion is generally used.
- an emulsifier can be used that has at 25° C. an HLB balance (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) in terms of GRIFFIN, preferably greater than or equal to 8.
- HLB value as per GRIFFIN is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.
- surfactants may be chosen from among anionic, cationic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants.
- the surfactant is chosen from:
- EO/PO polycondensate As a EO/PO polycondensate that can be used, mention can be made of polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates sold under the trade names SYNPERONIC® such as SYNPERONIC PE/L44® and SYNPERONIC PE/F127® by ICI;
- the base composition according to the invention and the coating composition according to the invention each comprise the following surfactants mixture:
- the base composition according to the invention and/or the coating composition according to the invention can comprise a fatty phase, which can be dispersed.
- the base composition according to the invention and the coating composition according to the invention each preferably comprise a fatty phase, which is preferably a dispersed fatty phase.
- the fatty phase can be present in each composition in a content between 5% and 50% by weight, preferably between 10% and 40% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
- the fatty phase can comprise at least one wax, at least one oil and/or at least one pasty fatty substance.
- the base composition according to the invention and the coating composition according to the invention each comprise at least one wax.
- This wax is indispensable for obtaining thick and loading textures.
- wax refers to a lipophilic compound, which is solid at ambient temperature (25° C.), deformable or not, having a reversible solid/liquid change of state and a melting point greater than or equal to 40° C. that can range up to 120° C.
- the waxes suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45° C., and particularly greater than or equal to 55° C.
- lipophilic compound means a compound that has an acid index and a hydroxyl index less than 150 mg KOH/g.
- the melting point is equivalent to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.
- the melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “MDSC 2920” by TA Instruments.
- the measurement protocol is as follows:
- a 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from ⁇ 20° C. to 100° C., at a heating rate of 10° C./minute, and is then cooled from 100° C. to ⁇ 20° C. at a cooling rate of 10° C./minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from ⁇ 20° C. to 100° C. at a heating rate of 5° C./minute.
- the melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature equivalent to the top point of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature.
- the waxes may be hydrocarbon, silicone and/or fluorinated and be of plant, mineral and/or synthetic origin.
- the wax may be present in each composition in a content ranging from 1% to 30% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, better from 2% to 20%, and even better from 5% to 17% by weight.
- Hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax; rice wax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Japan wax, Berry wax, shellac wax and sumac wax; montan wax can be in particular used as wax.
- a hydrocarbon wax will be used chosen from beeswax, rice bran wax, Carnauba wax, and mixtures thereof.
- waxes obtained by means of the catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils having C8-C32 linear or branched fat chains.
- hydrogenated jojoba oil hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, di-(trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) tetrastearate sold under the name “HEST 2T-4S” by HETERENE, di-(trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) tetrabehenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by HETERENE.
- the wax used can also be obtained by hydrogenating esterified olive oil with stearyl alcohol sold under the name “PHYTOWAX Olive 18 L 57” or waxes obtained by hydrogenating esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol sold under the name “PHYTOWAX ricin 16L64 and 22L73”, by SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in the application FR-A-2792190.
- a silicone wax in particular sticky, such as a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in a mixture, may be used, in particular a C20-C40 12-alkyl-(12′-hydroxystearyloxy)stearate having the formula (I):
- n is an integer ranging from 18 to 38, or a mixture of compounds having the formula (I).
- a sticky wax is particularly sold under the names “KESTER WAX K 82 P” and “KESTER WAX K 80 P” by KOSTER KEUNEN.
- microcrystalline waxes paraffins and ozokerite
- polyethylene waxes waxes obtained by means of Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers and the esters thereof
- silicone waxes and fluorinated waxes are examples of microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite.
- the base composition according to the invention and the coating composition according to the invention can furthermore each comprise one or several liquid non-fatty oil or fatty body at ambient temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm of Hg).
- the oil can be chosen from volatile oils and/or non-volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.
- the oil or oils may be present in each composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- volatile oil is intended to mean any oil capable of evaporating on contact with keratin fibers, in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure.
- volatile organic solvent(s) and volatile oils according to the invention are organic solvents and volatile cosmetic oils, which are liquid at ambient temperature, having a vapor pressure different to zero, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, particularly ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 ⁇ 3 at 300 mm Hg), particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more specifically ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).
- non-volatile oil denotes an oil remaining on the keratin fiber at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and particularly having a vapor pressure less than 10 ⁇ 3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).
- oils may be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils or mixtures thereof.
- hydrocarbon oil is an oil containing principally hydrogen and carbon atoms and possible oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and phosphorus atoms.
- the volatile hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and particularly branched C8-C16 alkanes such as petroleum-based C8-C16 isoalkanes (also referred to as isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also referred to as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
- volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, particularly those sold under the name Shell Solt by SHELL, may also be used.
- the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.
- Other volatile oils that can be used are volatile silicones, such as for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, particularly those having a viscosity ⁇ 8 centistokes (8 10-6 m2/s), and in particular having 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
- R represents an alkyl group comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms and in which one or several hydrogen atoms can be substituted by a fluorine or chlorine atom.
- R represents an alkyl group comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms and in which one or several hydrogen atoms can be substituted by a fluorine or chlorine atom.
- the base composition according to the invention and the coating composition according to the invention can also each comprise at least one non-volatile oil, and in particular chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon and/or silicone and/or fluorinated oils.
- non-volatile hydrocarbon oil mention may be made of:
- the non-volatile silicone oils that can be used in the composition in accordance with the invention can be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendant or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl-trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.
- PDMS non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes
- phenylated silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimeth
- the fluorinated oils that can be used in the invention are in particular fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers, fluorinated silicones, as described in document EP-A-847752.
- the base composition according to the invention and/or the coating composition according to the invention can also comprise at least one pasty compound at 23° C., hydrocarbon or silicon.
- the pasty fatty substance or substances may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- pasty fatty substance refers to a lipophilic fatty compound having a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state, and comprising a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 23° C.
- the initial melting point of the pasty compound may be less than 23° C.
- the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23° C. may represent 9 to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23° C. preferably represents between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight.
- the melting point of a solid fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the trade name “DSC Q100” by TA Instruments with the “TA Universal Analysis” software, according to the protocol defined hereinabove.
- DSC differential scanning calorimeter
- the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23° C. is more particularly equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23° C. to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound.
- the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to change from the solid state to the liquid state.
- the pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when the entire mass thereof is in solid crystalline form.
- the pasty compound is said to be in the liquid state when the entire mass thereof is in liquid form.
- the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is in particular equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter.
- the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the quantity of energy required to change the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.
- the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23° C. is the quantity of energy required by the sample to change from the solid state to the state presented at 23° C. consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
- the pasty compound(s) can be in particular chosen from synthetic pasty compounds and fatty substances of plant origin.
- the pasty compound(s) can be hydrocarbon or silicone.
- the pasty compound(s) can be in particular chosen from:
- the base composition according to the invention and/or the coating composition according to the invention can comprise at least one film-forming polymer.
- the film-forming polymer may be present in a dry matter (or active matter) content ranging from 0.1 to 40% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, and better from 1% to 15% by weight.
- the film-forming polymer may also be present at a dry matter (or active matter) content ranging from 10% to 40% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, preferably 15% to 30% by weight.
- film-forming polymer means a polymer that can form by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous film that adheres to the keratin fibers.
- the hydrophilic film-forming polymer can be a polymer in dispersion in an aqueous medium.
- film-forming polymers that can be used in the base composition according to the invention and/or the coating composition according to the invention, mention may be made of radical or polycondensate type synthetic polymers, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
- radical film-forming polymer refers to a polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated monomers in particular ethylenic, with each monomer able to be homopolymerized (unlike polycondensates).
- the film-forming polymer can present in the base composition according to the invention and/or the coating composition according to the invention in the form of particles in dispersion in a aqueous phase, generally known under the name of pseudolatex.
- the techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.
- aqueous film-forming polymer dispersion use may be made of acrylic dispersions sold under the names Neocryl XK-90®, Neocryl A-1070®, Neocryl A-1090®, Neocryl BT-62®, Neocryl A-1079® and Neocryl A-523® by AVECIA-NEORESINS, Dow Latex 432® by DOW CHEMICAL, Daitosol 5000 AD® or Daitosol 5000 SJ® by DAITO KASEY KOGYO; Syntran 5760® or Syntran 5760 CG® by Interpolymer; Allianz Opt® by Rohm and Haas or the aqueous polyurethane dispersions sold under the names Neorez R-981® and Neorez R-974® by AVECIA-NEORESINS, Avalure UR-405®, Avalure UR-410®, Avalure UR-425®, Avalure UR-450®, Sancure 875®, Avalure UR-445
- the base composition according to the invention comprises a continuous aqueous phase, a dispersed fatty phase and a dispersion of film-forming polymer particles in an aqueous phase, in particular as mentioned hereinabove.
- the film-forming polymer is present at a dry matter (or active matter) content ranging from 10% to 40% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, preferably 15% to 30% by weight.
- the base composition according to the invention and/or the coating composition according to the invention can, each one, also comprise ingredients commonly used in cosmetics such as dyes, fillers, fibers, cosmetic active agents and mixtures thereof.
- antioxidants As cosmetic active agents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention can be made of antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers and vitamins.
- the base composition according to the invention and/or the coating composition according to the invention can comprise at least one dye such as powder materials, liposoluble dyes and water-soluble dyes.
- At least the coating composition according to the invention comprises at least one dye.
- a coating composition can as such provide interesting color and/or aesthetic effects.
- the powder dyes can be chosen from pigments and nacres.
- the pigments may be white or colored, inorganic and/or organic, coated or uncoated.
- inorganic pigments mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium, zinc or cerium oxides, along with iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and iron blue.
- organic pigments mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.
- the nacres may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with iron blue and chromium oxide in particular, titanium mica with an organic pigments of the aforementioned type and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
- white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride
- colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with iron blue and chromium oxide in particular, titanium mica with an organic pigments of the aforementioned type and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
- the liposoluble colorants are for example Sudan Red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, ⁇ -carotene, Sudan Brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C orange 5, Quinoline Yellow, rocou.
- These dyes may be present in each composition at a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
- the base composition according to the invention and/or the coating composition according to the invention can also comprise at least one fiber that allows for an improvement in the lengthening effect.
- fiber means an object with a length L and diameter D such that L is much greater than D, D being the diameter of the circle in which the section of the fiber is inscribed.
- the ratio L/D (or form factor) is chosen from the range of 3.5 to 2,500, in particular from 5 to 500, and more particularly from 5 to 150.
- the fibers that can be used in the base composition according to the invention and/or the coating composition according to the invention can be fibers of natural or synthetic, mineral or organic origin. They can be short or long, single units or organized for example in braids, hollow or solid. They may be of any shape and in particular of circular or polygonal section (square, hexagonal or octagonal) according to the specific application considered. In particular, their ends are blunt and/or polished in order to prevent injury.
- the fibers have a length ranging from 1 ⁇ m to 10 mm, in particular from 0.1 mm to 5 mm and more particularly from 0.3 mm to 3.5 mm.
- Their section can be comprised in a circle with a diameter ranging from 2 nm to 500 ⁇ m, in particular ranging from 100 nm to 100 ⁇ m and more particularly from 1 ⁇ m to 50 ⁇ m.
- the weight or content of fibers is often given in denier or decitex and represents the weight in grams for 9 km of thread.
- the fibers according to the invention in particular have a content chosen in the range from 0.15 to 30 deniers and in particular from 0.18 to 18 deniers.
- the fibers that can be used in the base composition according to the invention and/or the coating composition according to the invention can be chosen from rigid or non-rigid fibers, they can be of natural or synthetic, mineral or organic origin.
- the fibers can be surface-treated or not, coated or uncoated, dyed or not dyed.
- non-rigid fibers such as polyamide fibers (Nylon®), cellulose fibers or “Rayonne” (RAYON FLOCK RCISE N0003 M04® marketed by the company CLAREMONT FLOCK CORPORATION) or rigid fibers such as the polyimide-amide fibers such as those sold under the names KERMEL®, KERMEL TECH® by the company RHODIA or poly-(p-phenylene-terephtalamide) (or aramide) in particular sold under the name Kevlar® by the company DUPONT DE NEMOURS.
- the fibers can be present in the base composition according to the invention and/or the coating composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.1% to 5% by weight.
- the base composition according to the invention and the coating composition according to the invention can each have a semi-liquid or liquid form.
- the base composition according to the invention and the coating composition according to the invention can in particular have the form of a wax-in-water emulsion, the form of a cream, paste, in particular a flexible paste.
- Each composition is preferably an non-rinsed composition.
- the system for applying able to apply a base composition and the base composition are provided. Furthermore, a device 10 is provided with the applicator 14 in idle position, mounted and immobilized on the receptacle 12 , the receptacle 12 containing the coating composition of the base composition.
- the base composition is first of all applied onto the keratin fibers, in particular by the system for applying; this is the step a).
- step b) is carried out; the first application member 22 A is impregnated with the coating composition.
- the user blocks the rod carrier 18 in rotation with respect to the gripping member 16 by passing the blocking system 24 from its inactive configuration to its active configuration.
- each locking cog 118 is as such inserted into a spline 112 , blocking in rotation about the axis A the rod carrier 18 with respect to the gripping member 16 .
- the user releases the head for mounting 84 from the neck 30 here by unscrewing the unit formed by the gripping member 16 and the rod carrier 18 , and by maintaining the blocking system 24 active. Then, the user extracts the rod carrier 18 and the first application member 22 A outside of the receptacle 12 through the opening 28 .
- the squeezing device 32 removes from the first application member 22 A, the excess product that accompanies the exit thereof from the receptacle 12 .
- the user brings the first application member 22 A of the coating composition in contact with the keratin fibers on which the base composition has already been applied.
- the user displaces the first application member 22 A on the keratin fibers. During this displacement, the mechanical stress of the keratin fibers on the first application member 22 A drives in rotation the first application member 22 A, the rod 20 , and the rod carrier 18 with respect to the gripping member 16 .
- the displacement is accompanied by the depositing of the coating composition on the keratin fibers.
- the very low contact between the rod carrier 18 and the application member 16 on the regions 86 , 90 decreases the friction between the rod carrier 18 and the gripping member 16 .
- the first application member 22 A instead of rubbing against the keratin fibers and removing a portion of the base composition that has already been deposited, rolls on the keratin fibers and does not remove any of the already deposited base composition.
- the force exerted by the user to roll the first application member 22 A on the keratin fibers is minimized thanks to the pivot connection with reduced statically indeterminate created by the linear contact regions 86 , 90 .
- the step of displacing the first application member 22 A on the keratin fibers does not require waiting for the drying of the base composition already applied on the keratin fibers.
- a second application member 22 B is shown in FIG. 10 .
- This second application member 22 B differs from the first application member 22 A in that the pins of the second row 128 are not arranged staggered with the adjacent pins of the first row 126 and the adjacent pins of the third row 130 .
- Each row of pins has at least one pin 122 axially positioned, along the longitudinal axis A, at the same position as a pin 122 of each one of the other rows of pins.
- each pin 122 of the second row 128 is axially positioned, along the longitudinal axis A, at the same position as a pin of the first row 126 and of the third row 130 . More generally, each pin 122 of at least one row of pins is axially positioned, along the longitudinal axis A, at the same position as a pin of each one of the other rows of pins.
- Each pin 122 of a row that has one pin less that its adjacent rows, is axially positioned, along the longitudinal axis A, at the same position as a pin of each one of its adjacent rows.
- the user can selectively block the rotation of the rod carrier 18 with respect to the gripping member 16 at any time, in particular during the application of the product.
- the blocking device 19 is configured to authorize a relative translation travel along the axis A of the rod carrier 18 with respect to the gripping member 16 , for example a travel less than 10 mm, in particular between 4 mm and 6 mm.
- a damping elastic element (not shown) is for example arranged between the rod carrier 18 and the gripping member 16 .
- This elastic element is arranged in such a way that the relative translation along the axis A is carried out, at least in one direction of translation of the rod carrier 18 with respect to the gripping member 16 , against an elastic force exerted by the elastic element.
- the blocking system 24 comprises a deformable seal added in the cut around each flexible tab 114 , in order to seal the cut at the periphery of each flexible tag 114 .
- a deformable seal makes it possible to prevent the insertion of dust into the internal volume 46 of the cover 34 .
- the applicator 14 is able to be removably mounted onto the receptacle 12 by means of a snap-fitting or magnetism system, or by any other system that does not require a relative rotation of the applicator 14 with respect to the receptacle 12 in order to separate these two elements.
- the user releases the applicator 14 from the receptacle 12 , by pulling on the applicator 14 which is separated from the receptacle 12 via simple translation along the axis A.
- Example 1 Evaluation of the Makeup Obtained with a Process According to the Invention Versus a Process Using Only One Non-Rotary Applicator Member with Respect to a Gripping Member
- the device 10 according to the invention is used, comprising the second application member 22 B, and a conventional applicator (i.e. of which the member for applying is non-rotary or locked in rotation with respect to a gripping member, comparative), with two mascara formulas, one blue and the other pink.
- a conventional applicator i.e. of which the member for applying is non-rotary or locked in rotation with respect to a gripping member, comparative
- the second application member 22 B and the pins 122 have the following characteristics:
- the diameter of the support body 120 measures 3.5 mm, the difference between two adjacent pins 1.2 mm and the length of the pins in 3 mm.
- the second application member 22 B comprises 12 rows each comprising 20 pins or 21 pins, and the rows of pins are arranged axially face-to-face without any axial offset (no staggering).
- an application member similar to the second application member 22 B described hereinabove is adapted at the end of the rest of the conventional applicator, with the same characteristics of the support body, difference between two adjacent pins, still with 12 rows each comprising 20 pins or 21 pins face-to-face.
- Test pieces of false eyelashes are provided with makeup with the base composition, the with the coating composition of the base composition, with each composition having its applicator system, according to the following protocol:
- Each test piece is a bar of “experimental eyelashes” from SPEquation. It is comprised of 60 Caucasian hairs with a height from 5-6 to 13 mm long, arranged over a length of 2 cm.
- compositions a) and b) are applied successively without the composition a) having the time to dry. Finally, immediately after the end of the step b), the visual aspect of the test pieces of false eyelashes is evaluated. The results are shown in FIGS. 11 and 12 .
- step b shears the layer of base composition (applied in step a) and the colors mix together. A violet deposit is thus obtained.
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Applications Claiming Priority (3)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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FR1762612A FR3075020B1 (fr) | 2017-12-20 | 2017-12-20 | Procede d'application de composition cosmetique utilisant un applicateur rotatif |
FR1762612 | 2017-12-20 | ||
PCT/EP2018/085431 WO2019121640A1 (fr) | 2017-12-20 | 2018-12-18 | Procédé pour l'application d'une composition cosmétique comportant un applicateur rotatif |
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US20200352309A1 true US20200352309A1 (en) | 2020-11-12 |
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US16/955,579 Abandoned US20200352309A1 (en) | 2017-12-20 | 2018-12-18 | Process for applying a cosmetic composition comprising a rotary applicator |
Country Status (4)
Country | Link |
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US (1) | US20200352309A1 (fr) |
EP (1) | EP3727595A1 (fr) |
FR (1) | FR3075020B1 (fr) |
WO (1) | WO2019121640A1 (fr) |
Cited By (1)
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WO2023284992A1 (fr) * | 2021-07-15 | 2023-01-19 | Albea Services | Recharge pour dispositif de conditionnement et d'application de produit cosmétique et dispositif associé |
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2017
- 2017-12-20 FR FR1762612A patent/FR3075020B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
-
2018
- 2018-12-18 US US16/955,579 patent/US20200352309A1/en not_active Abandoned
- 2018-12-18 WO PCT/EP2018/085431 patent/WO2019121640A1/fr unknown
- 2018-12-18 EP EP18827033.4A patent/EP3727595A1/fr not_active Withdrawn
Patent Citations (12)
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US5086793A (en) * | 1990-11-13 | 1992-02-11 | Maybe Holding Co. | Adjustable mascara applicator |
US6145514A (en) * | 1999-08-31 | 2000-11-14 | Clay; Mary A. | Interactive mascara brush 2 |
US20040009028A1 (en) * | 2002-06-07 | 2004-01-15 | L'oreal | Applicator comprising a sloping applicator element and a stem connected via a hinge to a handle member |
US8529147B2 (en) * | 2004-07-30 | 2013-09-10 | L'oreal | Applicator and a packaging and applicator device including such an applicator |
US20080196735A1 (en) * | 2007-02-21 | 2008-08-21 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Cosmetic Applicator with Torque Limiter |
US20080236607A1 (en) * | 2007-03-26 | 2008-10-02 | Susanna Lee | Electric make-up applicator |
US20110110701A1 (en) * | 2008-04-08 | 2011-05-12 | L'oreal | Vibrator applicator having selective vibration orientation |
FR2932069A1 (fr) * | 2008-06-10 | 2009-12-11 | Oreal | Ensemble de maquillage et/ou de soin des cils |
US20100215605A1 (en) * | 2008-11-24 | 2010-08-26 | L'oreal | Solid cosmetic composition for application to keratin fibres |
US8118038B2 (en) * | 2009-01-13 | 2012-02-21 | Valerie White-Beaudet | Powered mascara applicator |
US20110108050A1 (en) * | 2009-11-11 | 2011-05-12 | Zen Design Solutions Limited | Applicator system |
US20130223915A1 (en) * | 2012-02-23 | 2013-08-29 | Pep Innovations, Inc. | Mascara applicator system |
Cited By (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
WO2023284992A1 (fr) * | 2021-07-15 | 2023-01-19 | Albea Services | Recharge pour dispositif de conditionnement et d'application de produit cosmétique et dispositif associé |
FR3125210A1 (fr) * | 2021-07-15 | 2023-01-20 | Albea Services | Recharge pour dispositif de conditionnement et d'application de produit cosmétique et dispositif associé |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
FR3075020A1 (fr) | 2019-06-21 |
FR3075020B1 (fr) | 2020-01-10 |
WO2019121640A1 (fr) | 2019-06-27 |
EP3727595A1 (fr) | 2020-10-28 |
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