US20170303647A1 - Cut gem and article comprising such a gem - Google Patents

Cut gem and article comprising such a gem Download PDF

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Publication number
US20170303647A1
US20170303647A1 US15/526,250 US201515526250A US2017303647A1 US 20170303647 A1 US20170303647 A1 US 20170303647A1 US 201515526250 A US201515526250 A US 201515526250A US 2017303647 A1 US2017303647 A1 US 2017303647A1
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US
United States
Prior art keywords
girdle
pavilion
facets
facet
vertices
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Abandoned
Application number
US15/526,250
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English (en)
Inventor
Eric Hamers
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Louis Vuitton Malletier SA
Original Assignee
Louis Vuitton Mallentier
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Louis Vuitton Mallentier filed Critical Louis Vuitton Mallentier
Publication of US20170303647A1 publication Critical patent/US20170303647A1/en
Abandoned legal-status Critical Current

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/001—Faceting gems
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools

Definitions

  • the invention relates to cut gems and to articles comprising such gems.
  • the Princess cut is widely used for gems, and is one of the cuts that gives the most brilliance to a diamond, just after the “round brilliant” cut.
  • U.S. Pat. No. 8,181,482 discloses a gem with a cut based on a Princess cut, reminiscent of a butterfly shape.
  • the cut gem described in this document comprises:
  • the invention aims to provide an alternative cut gem that is particularly brilliant.
  • the crown has twenty-four facets
  • the pavilion has thirty-two facets
  • the four girdle sides are identical in the form of an arc of a circle, of which the concavity is oriented towards the outside of the gem.
  • the gem may also have the features presented below, separately or in combination.
  • crown may comprise:
  • the twenty-four facets of the crown comprise four lateral faces, four bezel facets, four break facets, eight star facets, and four table corner facets.
  • the thirty-two facets of the pavilion comprise four pavilion break facets, four pavilion star facets, and twenty-four lower pavilion facets.
  • the cut gem may be created to have the following features:
  • cut gem may further comprise the following characteristics:
  • the gem is a diamond.
  • the invention also relates to an article of jewelry comprising at least one gem as defined above.
  • FIG. 1 shows a gem according to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, in a top view
  • FIG. 2 shows the gem represented in FIG. 1 , in a bottom view
  • FIG. 3 shows the gem illustrated in FIGS. 1 and 2 , in a side view.
  • the gem illustrated in FIGS. 1 to 3 is created starting with a diamond in a Princess cut (meaning a diamond whose general shape resembles a pyramid with a square base). However, it will be easy for a skilled person to perform the specific gem cut that will be described, on other precious or semi-precious stones.
  • an upper portion of the gem meaning the portion of the gem that is usually presented to the exterior of an article of jewelry when the gem is set in jewelry. This is the portion of the gem that is directly visible to an observer.
  • the upper portion of the gem comprises a gem table formed by a flat facet and a crown surrounding the table and consisting of several adjacent facets.
  • the crown extends substantially in a first direction H (see FIG. 3 ).
  • the lower portion of the gem which is oriented towards the article of jewelry will be called the pavilion of the gem.
  • the pavilion extends in a direction B that is opposite to direction H and will be described below in reference to FIG. 2 .
  • FIG. 1 shows a top view of a gem according to the invention, and thus an upper portion of the gem, which has a general shape that is substantially square.
  • the “girdle” is the widest part of the gem, which gives its diameter: the gem shown in the figures thus has a girdle 3 that is substantially square in shape, with four vertices 1 (hereafter called girdle vertices) connected to each other by four girdle sides 2 each having the same length.
  • each of the four girdle sides 2 is in the form of an arc (concave) of a circle, of which the concavity is oriented towards the outside of the gem.
  • FIG. 3 illustrates a girdle 3 side 2 of the gem, the girdle 3 being represented schematically with broken lines between the two girdle vertices 1 in FIG. 3 .
  • FIG. 1 At the center of the upper portion of the gem shown in FIG. 1 , there is a table 4 of octagonal shape.
  • Four of the vertices of the octagonal table 4 align with the girdle vertices 1 along a diagonal D 1 or D 2 of the girdle, and form the table corner vertices 5 .
  • the other vertices of the table 4 alternate with the table corner vertices 5 and constitute break facet vertices 6 .
  • Each of the girdle 3 sides 2 has a girdle side length L, which is the shortest distance between two adjacent girdle vertices 1 .
  • the break facet vertices 6 are each equidistant from the two adjacent girdle vertices 1 .
  • the position of a break facet vertex 6 is selected on a line D 4 , which is perpendicular to line D 3 connecting the two girdle vertices 1 and which passes through the center C of the segment connecting the two girdle vertices 1 .
  • the distance L 1 between the center C and the break facet vertex 6 is chosen so that it is substantially between 18 and 22% of the length L of the girdle side 2 .
  • the distance L 1 between the center C and the break facet vertex 6 corresponds to substantially 20% of the length L between two girdle vertices 1 .
  • the depth L 2 of the concavities of the girdle sides 2 is also chosen according to the shortest length L between two girdle vertices 1 (see FIG. 1 ).
  • the depth L 2 corresponds to substantially between 5.5 and 9.5% of the length L of a girdle side 2 (see FIG. 1 ).
  • the crown 7 of the gem is formed between the table 4 and the girdle 2 sides 2 (see FIGS. 1 and 3 ).
  • the crown 7 comprises, in the example illustrated in the figures, four lateral faces 8 which correspond to the four faces that follow the curvature of the girdle sides 2 (see FIG. 3 ).
  • the crown 7 has four table corner facets 9 that are substantially diamond-shaped, of which one of the vertices is formed by a table corner vertex 5 and an opposite vertex is formed by a girdle vertex 1 .
  • the other two vertices of the table corner facets 9 are denoted T in FIG. 1 .
  • the crown also comprises four bezel facets 10 , formed by facets defined between two adjacent girdle vertices 1 and two vertices T of the two adjacent table corner facets 9 associated with the adjacent girdle vertices 1 and taken into consideration.
  • the incline of the bezel facets relative to the plane of the table 4 is such that the plane P 1 of the bezel facets forms an angle ⁇ with the plane P 2 in which the table 4 lies, the angle ⁇ being between 35 and 39° (substantially 37° in the example illustrated in FIG. 3 ).
  • the crown 7 further comprises four facets called break facets 11 , triangular in shape, located between the bezel facets and the table 4 , and having for vertices the two vertices 7 (in common with the bezel facets 10 ) and the break facet vertex 6 (in common with the table 4 ).
  • the crown has eight star facets 12 which are each triangular in shape, so called because they form a star around the table 4 .
  • the gem according to the invention and shown in the figures comprises a crown 7 which has a total of twenty-four facets.
  • the pavilion 13 extends between the girdle 3 and a pavilion tip 14 that it comprises.
  • the pavilion 13 has substantially the shape of a pyramid with a square base.
  • the pavilion 13 comprises a pavilion star 15 which has four arms connecting the pavilion tip 14 and each of the girdle vertices 1 .
  • the four arms of the pavilion star are called “pavilion star facets 16 ”.
  • Each of the arms has a wide base 17 and a narrow tip forming a point 18 , which connects the girdle vertex.
  • the wide bases 17 of the four pavilion star facets 16 form four abstract sides of a square (represented with dotted lines) of which the center is defined by the pavilion tip 14 (see FIG. 2 ).
  • the pavilion star 15 has a base 19 of square cross-section.
  • the base 19 has a diagonal 20 whose length is between 5 and 11% of the girdle side length L, preferably between 5.5 and 10.5%.
  • the length of the diagonal 20 is substantially equal to 8% of the length L.
  • the pavilion 13 has four pavilion break facets 21 adjacent to the lateral faces 8 .
  • Each pavilion break facet 21 is formed by a flat facet with three sides: the first side 22 is curved and is common with a side of the lateral face 8 .
  • the second and third sides 23 and 24 are of the same length and each of the second and third sides connects a girdle vertex 1 to a point 25 located on a line containing the diagonal 20 .
  • the position of the point 25 on the line containing the diagonal 20 is determined by the orientation of a plane P 3 of the pavilion break facet relative to the plane P 2 of the table 4 : according to the invention, the angle of incline ⁇ of plane P 3 relative to plane P 2 is substantially 60° (plus or minus 2°—see FIG. 3 ).
  • a pavilion break facet 21 and a pavilion star facet 16 are provided between a pavilion break facet 21 and a pavilion star facet 16 .
  • Each lower pavilion facet 26 is triangular in shape, with a base 27 which is contained in the line containing the diagonal 20 , and two sides connecting the base 27 to a girdle vertex 1 .
  • the three lower pavilion facets 26 thus have three bases 27 aligned along the line containing the diagonal 20 and the point 25 .
  • it may also have a side in common with a pavilion star facet 16 or with a pavilion break facet 21 , or may have no such sides in common if the lower pavilion facet 26 is between two other lower pavilion facets 26 .
  • the pavilion 13 comprises twenty-four lower pavilion facets 26 , where a base 27 is common to two lower pavilion facets 26 which are axially symmetric images of one another on an axis corresponding to the line containing the diagonal 20 .
  • the pavilion of the gem represented in the figures comprises thirty-two facets including twenty-four lower pavilion facets 26 , four pavilion break facets 21 , and four pavilion star facets 16 .
  • the invention is not limited to the specific gem just described. Furthermore, the invention extends to any article of jewelry comprising at least one gem such as the one described and represented above.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
  • Adornments (AREA)
  • Grinding And Polishing Of Tertiary Curved Surfaces And Surfaces With Complex Shapes (AREA)
US15/526,250 2014-11-24 2015-09-18 Cut gem and article comprising such a gem Abandoned US20170303647A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1461352A FR3028725B1 (fr) 2014-11-24 2014-11-24 Gemme taillee et article comportant une telle gemme
FR1461352 2014-11-24
PCT/FR2015/052499 WO2016083680A1 (fr) 2014-11-24 2015-09-18 Gemme taillee et article comportant une telle gemme

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
US20170303647A1 true US20170303647A1 (en) 2017-10-26

Family

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US15/526,250 Abandoned US20170303647A1 (en) 2014-11-24 2015-09-18 Cut gem and article comprising such a gem

Country Status (8)

Country Link
US (1) US20170303647A1 (he)
JP (1) JP2017536890A (he)
CN (1) CN107205531A (he)
FR (1) FR3028725B1 (he)
HK (1) HK1244644A1 (he)
IL (1) IL252293A0 (he)
RU (1) RU2689879C2 (he)
WO (1) WO2016083680A1 (he)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US10321743B2 (en) * 2014-07-10 2019-06-18 Leonard J. Strnad Square princess cut gemstone

Families Citing this family (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP3378346B1 (fr) 2017-03-21 2023-01-18 Omega SA Pierre et son procédé de réalisation
CN113290720B (zh) * 2021-05-07 2023-03-31 上海豫园珠宝时尚集团有限公司 一种带弧度钻石的切割方法及钻石
CN113263417B (zh) * 2021-05-07 2023-06-20 上海豫园珠宝时尚集团有限公司 一种钻石的切割方法及钻石

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
USD440902S1 (en) * 2000-07-05 2001-04-24 Steven J. Wolf Jewelry arrangement
USD462921S1 (en) * 2001-03-16 2002-09-17 Diamonds 4U, Ltd. Gemstone
JP2004148023A (ja) * 2002-11-01 2004-05-27 Hohoemi Brains Inc ダイヤモンドの改良した四辺形ブリリアントカット

Family Cites Families (9)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
SU1466691A1 (ru) * 1986-11-20 1989-03-23 Zenkovich Vladimir K Граненый прозрачный камень
US5970744A (en) * 1998-12-01 1999-10-26 Tiffany And Company Cut cornered square mixed-cut gemstone
CH693938A5 (fr) * 1999-12-23 2004-05-14 Montblanc Simplo Gmbh Gemme taillée, en particulier diamant taillé.
US7146827B2 (en) * 2001-05-18 2006-12-12 Diamond Innovations, Llc Mixed cut gemstone
US20030192347A1 (en) * 2002-04-15 2003-10-16 Hadar Yaskil Gemstone
JP2006055339A (ja) * 2004-08-19 2006-03-02 Shin Suzuki 宝石及び宝飾品
CN101873813B (zh) * 2008-01-22 2013-01-23 哈森费尔德-斯泰因公司 呈现极佳的光学明亮度的切割宝石
CN101385961A (zh) * 2008-10-21 2009-03-18 上海江信超硬材料有限公司 一种首饰彩钻及加工方法
US20130291589A1 (en) * 2012-05-03 2013-11-07 Anthony Ritchie Silicon Carbide Princess Cut Gemstone

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
USD440902S1 (en) * 2000-07-05 2001-04-24 Steven J. Wolf Jewelry arrangement
USD462921S1 (en) * 2001-03-16 2002-09-17 Diamonds 4U, Ltd. Gemstone
JP2004148023A (ja) * 2002-11-01 2004-05-27 Hohoemi Brains Inc ダイヤモンドの改良した四辺形ブリリアントカット

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US10321743B2 (en) * 2014-07-10 2019-06-18 Leonard J. Strnad Square princess cut gemstone

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR3028725A1 (fr) 2016-05-27
FR3028725B1 (fr) 2017-01-13
RU2017122007A (ru) 2018-12-26
WO2016083680A1 (fr) 2016-06-02
HK1244644A1 (zh) 2018-08-17
JP2017536890A (ja) 2017-12-14
RU2689879C2 (ru) 2019-05-29
CN107205531A (zh) 2017-09-26
RU2017122007A3 (he) 2019-03-26
IL252293A0 (he) 2017-07-31

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