US20150313299A1 - Multi-ply apparel neckpiece - Google Patents

Multi-ply apparel neckpiece Download PDF

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Publication number
US20150313299A1
US20150313299A1 US14/268,838 US201414268838A US2015313299A1 US 20150313299 A1 US20150313299 A1 US 20150313299A1 US 201414268838 A US201414268838 A US 201414268838A US 2015313299 A1 US2015313299 A1 US 2015313299A1
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fabric
piece
bias
interpoint
apparel
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US14/268,838
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Mark Alan Medema
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Individual
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Individual
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D25/00Neckties
    • A41D25/16Linings; Stiffening-pieces
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D25/00Neckties
    • A41D25/001Making neckties
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D25/00Neckties
    • A41D25/005Neckties made of different sections

Definitions

  • tie neckpieces include bowties, neckties, and other neckwear pieces. Because ties typically accompany men's suits (i.e., casual, business, executive, tuxedo, etc.), the manufacture and/or sale of tie neckpieces generates a significant amount of revenue.
  • the tie is drawn around the wearer's neck, knotted in front of the neck, and the ends are displayed in the front of the wearer. In some embodiments, the ends dangle down in the front of the wearer. From some aesthetic perspectives, a well formed, tight knot is considered the focal point of a suit. Accordingly, common necktie knots may range from a simple loop to a double Windsor knot comprised of three loops. There are even more knots that make use of loops including, but not limited to the Eldredge, Trinity, and Cape knots. Thus, a portion of the necktie comprising the knot, the knotting area, and the portion of the tie around the wearer's neck, bears significantly more stress than the other portions of the tie.
  • a fabric's flexibility is that fabric's ability to return substantially to its original shape after being stretched or otherwise placed under tensile stress.
  • a necktie may be rendered unusable where it has been stretched to the point that it does not return to its original shape. In that case, the integrity of the necktie becomes compromised when the necktie fabric has been stretched beyond its flexibility tolerance.
  • Neckties are typically constructed from pieces of fabric with various flexibility tolerances.
  • One or more additional pieces of fabric may be used as a backing and/or interlining of a necktie.
  • the one or more additional pieces of fabric may also have different flexibility tolerances.
  • attaching threads, the threads used to sew the one or more pieces of fabric together may have different flexibility tolerances as well.
  • bunching and/or separation of individual threads may result from combining fabrics having different flexibility tolerances.
  • existing neckties utilize the concept of folding, while keeping sewing to a minimum.
  • a high end necktie may feature seven folds and have hand rolled edges, with sewing limited to a keeper loop, tag, a bar tack stitch and/or a slip stitch to prevent pieces of the necktie from separating. Due the limited amount of sewing, fabrics with different flexibility tolerances are rarely used for neckties, and neckties generally use a specialized iron for pressing. Accordingly, folded neckties are limited in their structural features and the fabrics that may be used for their creation.
  • FIG. 1 is an example illustration of a necktie and its constituent parts.
  • FIG. 2 is an example illustration of a multi-ply apparel neckpiece and its constituent parts.
  • FIG. 3 is an example illustration of a sewn edge of two or more pieces of fabric.
  • FIG. 4 is an example illustration of a multi-ply apparel neckpiece with undulating curves executed with articulation snips.
  • FIG. 5 is an example illustration of two multi-ply apparel neckpieces with pockets for one of the ends of the apparel neckpieces.
  • FIG. 6 is an example flow chart of a process for manufacturing a multi-ply apparel neckpiece.
  • a conventional necktie 100 is shown with respect to FIG. 1 .
  • a necktie 100 is generally made of at least one elongated piece of fabric 102 , with one end of the necktie 100 being broader than the other end.
  • the broader end typically has a front side 104 that is visible and may have an aesthetic or expressive pattern.
  • the length of the necktie 100 constitutes the axis of elongation 106 .
  • the axis of elongation 106 is a vertical, or an approximately vertical, axis.
  • the centerline (not shown) is the center of the necktie along the axis of elongation 106 and is approximately parallel with respect to the axis of elongation.
  • Neckties 100 typically utilize folds and creases to provide structure, often with a minimum amount of sewing.
  • backlining or interfacing may be added to a necktie to provide structure.
  • the edges of a necktie 100 are generally not sewn, but are instead rolled. Specifically, the edge of the necktie 100 is folded over multiple times, and is then creased by a pressing process (e.g., pressing the necktie with an iron). The pressed crease maintains the shape of the necktie's 100 construction. In FIG. 1 , a rolled edge 108 is shown.
  • a second piece of fabric is attached to a back side of the necktie 100 to provide a backlining.
  • the attachment mechanism used to attach the first piece of fabric to the second piece of fabric may be an adhesive, tack stitches, or a stitch that follows the fibers.
  • the backlining shows at the tips of a back side of a necktie, that backlining is called the tip lining 110 .
  • Sewing may be employed in a necktie 100 in several embodiments.
  • a brand of a necktie 100 is typically attached via a small strip of fabric, referred to as the tag 112 , and is sewn into the back side of the necktie 100 .
  • the back side of the necktie 100 may include a small loop, usually made from a strip of fabric, that is laid substantially perpendicular to the centerline of the necktie 100 . This loop, called a keeper loop 114 , may be used to hold the narrower end of a necktie 100 in a relatively fixed position.
  • the keeper loop 114 may elongate and distort at different rates, the keeper loop 114 is typically attached to the centerline of the necktie 100 , rather than the keeper loop 114 being attached with two separate connection points at each end of the keeper loop 114 .
  • a single tack stitch called a bar tack 116 , may be used in some embodiments to stabilize, or possibly to provide strength to, interfacing of the necktie 100 .
  • a slip stitch (not shown), may be used to sew a necktie 100 closed following folding and/or pinning.
  • a woven fabric is made of individual orthogonally oriented threads 118 and 120 . Each thread is made of multiple fibers. The threads perpendicular to the direction of a fabric are called the warp 118 , and the threads along the length of a fabric are called the weft 120 .
  • woven fabrics have a bias 122 .
  • the bias 122 is an invisible plane that intersects the warp 118 and the weft 120 at approximately 45 degrees when the woven fabric is in approximately a relaxed state, free of any application of stress or tension parallel or perpendicular to an axis of elongation 106 (i.e., zero-point tension).
  • the fabric 102 When a necktie 100 is tied, the fabric is pulled parallel to the axis of elongation 106 and perpendicular to the axis of elongation 106 .
  • the fabric 102 may have a limited flexibility. For example, if the centerline of the necktie 100 is parallel to the warp 118 or the weft 120 , and if the fabric 102 is pulled parallel or perpendicular to the axis of elongation 106 beyond a threshold, the fabric 102 may tear. Additionally, the edges of the fabric 102 may have different flexibilities. As a result, the fabric 102 may contort.
  • the centerline of a necktie 100 is typically along the bias 122 , which is diagonal to the warp 118 and the weft 120 , in order to maximize the flexibility of the fabric 102 .
  • knit fabrics In contrast with woven fabrics, knit fabrics have threads that are looped and purled to form fabrics comprised of interlocking loops. In at least some embodiments, since each thread in a knit fabric is interlocked with its adjoining thread via interlocking stitches, knit fabric tends to be more flexible than woven fabrics. However, this advantage is negated where a knit fabric is bound to a woven fabric, since the flexibility of the combined fabrics is now limited by the less flexible woven fabric.
  • the systems and/or processes described herein relate to a multi-ply apparel neckpiece.
  • the systems and/or processes described herein describe an apparel neckpiece where, in at least one embodiment, different woven fabrics are sewn together with an attaching thread substantially along the warp and/or the weft of the woven fabrics.
  • the attaching thread has a greater flexibility than the flexibility of the woven fabrics.
  • the woven fabrics in which the attaching thread is sewn may return to their original shape even if the woven fabrics are repeatedly stretched and/or strained.
  • the attaching threads do not inhibit the flexibility of the bias.
  • FIG. 2 illustrates an embodiment of the multi-ply apparel neckpiece 200 when the woven fabric is sewn with the attaching threads oriented substantially along the warp and/or weft of a woven fabric. While the descriptions herein describe woven fabrics, a similar technique may also be used for knit fabrics.
  • the apparel neckpiece 200 includes a first piece of fabric 202 that may be on the front side 104 of the apparel neckpiece 200 and a second piece of fabric 204 that may be on the back side of the apparel neckpiece 200 .
  • the first piece of fabric 202 may have a first bias and the second piece of fabric 204 may have a second bias.
  • the first bias is the invisible plane that intersects the warp 118 and the weft 120 of the first piece of fabric at approximately 45 degrees.
  • the second bias is the invisible plane that intersects the warp 118 and the weft 120 of the second piece of fabric at approximately 45 degrees.
  • the first piece of fabric 202 may overlay the second piece of fabric 204 such that the first bias and the second bias are substantially aligned.
  • Both the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204 may be elongated and have an axis of elongation 106 .
  • the centerline 206 of the necktie may be along the axis of elongation 106 , parallel to the bias 122 of the pieces of fabric.
  • the apparel neckpiece 200 may be constructed from fabrics with a broad variety of distortion threshold distances.
  • the distortion threshold distance may refer to the vertical and/or horizontal elasticity of a fiber or fabric, or the ability of the fiber or fabric to return to its original length, shape, or size immediately or shortly after the removal of stress.
  • the first piece of fabric 202 and/or the second piece of fabric 204 may include fabrics that are not typically used for making neckties, including but not limited to leather, fur, and artificial fur.
  • dissimilar fabric or cloth types may be used for an apparel neckpiece 200 .
  • different, but complementary, pairs of fabric may be combined in an apparel neckpiece 200 for aesthetic effect.
  • complementary fabrics are materials that provide contrast in texture, thickness, or other fabric properties (e.g., color, etc.). For example, leather paired with silk provides a contrast in texture, sheen, and thickness.
  • unmatched cloth types may be used in tandem or in combination to simply provide contrast in pattern and/or print.
  • one version of using unmatched cloth types is to make a patchwork, where one or more scraps of different kinds of cloth are sewn together into a single piece of fabric, and where contrasting scraps provide an aesthetic pattern.
  • the different kinds of cloth may have different distortion threshold distances, or the distortion threshold distances of the different kinds of cloth may be similar.
  • additional pieces of fabric may be added to the first piece of fabric 202 and/or second piece of fabric 204 to provide backing, interfacing, or lining.
  • the first piece of fabric 202 may display a pattern on the front side 104 of the necktie 200 facing away from the wearer.
  • the second piece of fabric 204 may be backing fabric added to the first piece of fabric 202 to provide a different color or pattern. In this way, when the necktie is folded, the different patterns may provide an aesthetic effect.
  • the backing fabric may offer support and/or heft to the apparel neckpiece.
  • an interfacing may aid in stiffening or adding heft to the necktie 200 .
  • the interfacing may be a fabric added to the first piece of fabric 202 and/or the second piece of fabric 204 , for example, between the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204 .
  • the interfacing may be associated with, or affixed to, the first piece of fabric 202 and/or the second piece of fabric 204 by a stitch, fuse, bond, etc.
  • the interfacing may not be attached at all, but may hang as a piece that may support the shape of the necktie 200 without being added to the first piece of fabric 202 and/or the second piece of fabric 204 .
  • the second piece of fabric 204 may offer support to the first piece of fabric 202 and thus may eliminate the need for interfacing.
  • Lining is fabric that may be added to a first piece of fabric 202 to provide a different color or pattern, but only in select portions of a garment.
  • the tip lining portion 110 in FIG. 1 is an example of lining.
  • the first piece of fabric 202 and second piece of fabric 204 may have a proximate (i.e., close) edge and a distal (i.e., far) edge.
  • a proximate edge i.e., close
  • a distal edge i.e., far
  • at least part of either the proximate or distal edges, or both, may be a sewn edge 208 (exaggerated out of proportion to show the detail of the sewn edge).
  • the edge may be sewn with an attaching thread 210 .
  • a length of the attaching thread 210 may be greater than a length of the first piece of fabric 202 and a length of the second piece of fabric 204 when the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204 are elongated along the first bias and the second bias.
  • the attaching thread 210 may include a plurality of incision points 212 and a plurality of interpoint threads 214 .
  • the plurality of incision points 212 are the plurality of points where the attaching thread 210 penetrates the first piece of fabric 202 and/or second piece of fabric 204 .
  • a frequency of the plurality of incision points 212 (i.e., the number and spacing of the plurality of incision points 212 along the attaching thread 210 ) may depend on a predetermined distortion threshold distance of the first piece of fabric 202 and/or a predetermined distortion threshold distance of the second piece of fabric 204 .
  • two adjacent incision points 212 of the plurality of incision points 212 may be joined by an interpoint thread 214 of the plurality of interpoint threads 214 .
  • one or more adjoining interpoint threads 214 may create an angle relative to the first bias and the second bias, or the centerline 206 .
  • a measure of the angle may depend on a predetermined distortion threshold distance of the first piece of fabric 202 and/or a predetermined distortion threshold distance of the second piece of fabric 204 . Depending on the predetermined distortion threshold distances, the measure of the angle may be such that the angle may be an acute, obtuse, or approximately right angle.
  • sewing the attaching thread 210 such that it substantially follows the warp 118 and/or the weft 120 of the woven fabrics, may allow the attaching thread 210 to move freely with the threads of the woven fabrics. Therefore, the flexibility of the woven fabrics may be maintained without compromising the integrity of the woven fabrics.
  • the techniques and systems described above permit different fabrics to be sewn together to create unique neckties.
  • FIG. 3 illustrates an enlarged view of the sewn edge 208 .
  • the sewn edge 208 may be located on the first piece of fabric 202 and/or the second piece of fabric 204 .
  • the attaching thread 210 is shown such that individual incision points 212 of the plurality of incision points 212 are located on or near the sewn edge 208 of the piece of fabric shown.
  • the sewn edge 208 is parallel to the bias 122 .
  • a first interpoint thread 214 forms a first side of the angle relative to the bias 122 and a second interpoint thread 214 forms a second side of the angle relative to the bias 122 .
  • one or more interpoint threads 214 may form the first side of the angle relative to the bias 122 and one or more interpoint threads 214 may form the second side of the angle relative to the bias 122 .
  • the sewn edge 208 may not be parallel to the bias 122 , and in such embodiments, the angle formed by the interpoint threads 214 may reference the bias 122 even though the sewn edge 108 may not.
  • a stitch sufficient to withstand repeated stretching may be sewn so that the attaching thread 210 follows the warp 118 and/or weft 120 (i.e., the one or more adjoining interpoint threads 214 form approximately a right angle). However, in some embodiments, the attaching thread 210 diverges from the warp 118 and/or the weft 120 (i.e., the one or more adjoining interpoint threads 214 form acute or obtuse angles), and the attaching thread 210 may still form a stitch sufficient to withstand repeated stretching.
  • the attaching thread 210 may be sewn using a variety of stitches. For example, the attaching thread may be sewn using a chain stitch, a lock stitch, a cover stitch, a cross-stitch, etc.
  • the threads and/or fibers of a piece of fabric may be elastic and, thus, may easily change form (e.g., stretch, etc.).
  • the angle formed by the attaching thread 210 may be different from a right angle. Nevertheless, the attaching thread 210 and resulting angle may still form a stitch sufficient to withstand repeated stretching.
  • the angle relative to the first bias and the second bias may be an acute angle.
  • the pieces of fabric may have space between the threads and/or fibers making up the fabric and thus may have a relatively large distortion threshold distance.
  • the angle relative to the first bias and the second bias may be an obtuse angle.
  • the pieces of fabric may be more tightly woven and have a relatively small distortion threshold distance.
  • the measure of the angle relative to the first bias and the second bias may vary depending on the distortion threshold distances of the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204 , as described above. Additionally, the measure of the angle relative to the first bias and the second bias may vary based on the elasticity of the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204 , the elasticity of the individual threads and/or fibers of the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204 , and/or the density (i.e., thread count) by which the threads and/or fibers of the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204 are woven.
  • lines 302 ( 1 )- 302 (N) represent example placements for individual incision points 212 of the plurality of incision points 212 that are not located on the bias.
  • lines 304 ( 1 )- 304 (N) represent example placements for individual incision points 212 of the plurality of incision points 212 that are located on the bias.
  • the lines are substantially parallel to the warp 118 and/or the weft 120 . That is, if the attaching thread 210 substantially follows lines 302 ( 1 )- 302 (N) and 304 ( 1 )- 304 (N), the angle relative to the bias should measure approximately a right angle with respect to the bias.
  • the attaching thread 210 may still form a stitch sufficient to withstand repeated stretching.
  • the incision points 212 may be located below lines 302 ( 1 )- 302 (N) and 304 ( 1 )- 304 (N) (i.e., forming an obtuse angle with the bias), and the attaching thread 210 may still form a stitch sufficient to withstand repeated stretching.
  • FIG. 3 may be appropriate when the threads and/or fibers of a piece of fabric (e.g., 202 and/or 204 ) are not elastic and/or do not easily change form. That is, FIG. 3 illustrates a sewn edge 208 in an embodiment where the threads and/or fibers of the fabric are not flexible.
  • the attaching thread 210 may be sewn in such a way that the first piece of fabric 202 and second piece of fabric 204 are at substantively equal tension. When a fabric is not under any stress, the fabric is at zero-point tension (i.e., at rest, relaxed, etc.). Thus, in at least some embodiments, the attaching thread 210 may attach the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204 , such that when both fabrics are at zero-point tension, the fabrics do not pucker or otherwise distort the other fabric.
  • the tension of a stitch is regulated by a feed tension associated with a sewing machine.
  • the attaching thread 210 may be attached in such a way that the feed tension matches the zero-point tension of the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204 .
  • the attaching thread 210 may be attached such that when the attaching thread 210 is at rest, it does not place stress on the first piece of fabric 202 and/or second piece of fabric 204 . As a result, when both pieces of fabric are at zero-point tension, they do not pucker, or otherwise distort.
  • the feed tension may vary throughout the sewn edge 208 depending on the distortion threshold distance of the one or more scraps of the plurality of different kinds of fabric that make up the patchwork.
  • the sewn edges 208 may be limited to a knotting area 216 and/or a neck area 218 .
  • the knotting area 216 is the portion of the necktie 200 that comprises the knot
  • the neck area 218 is the area of the necktie 200 that wraps around the wearer's neck.
  • the knotting area 216 and the neck area 218 are subject to a high degree of strain and tension with relation to the entire necktie 200 , and accordingly benefit from the additional flexibility afforded by sewn edges 208 .
  • Sewn edges provide design options not available with conventional neckties, such as undulating curves and necktie end storage designs.
  • FIG. 4 provides an example 400 of undulating curves and articulation snips.
  • FIG. 5 provides two examples 500 and 502 of necktie end pockets.
  • FIG. 4 illustrates an undulating curve 400 associated with a necktie.
  • Conventional neckties having hand-rolled edges rely on creases to provide their form.
  • conventional necktie edges are typically straight lines, and not curved.
  • a necktie need not rely on creases, and therefore may have undulating curves (i.e., curves that may turn in and/or out) with respect to the axis of elongation 106 .
  • An example of a curve turning out is a convex curve 402 .
  • An example of a curve turning in is a concave curve 404 .
  • undulating curves may be smooth and/or jagged.
  • a convex curve 402 may be implemented with articulation snips or notches 406 that result in tabs 408 .
  • the articulation snips or notches 406 may be cut when a front of the first piece of fabric 202 and a front of the second piece of fabric 204 are facing one another (i.e., when the necktie is inside-out).
  • the tabs 408 may be folded in, without pleating or bunching of the fabric (e.g., 202 , 204 ) to provide a finished sewn edge 208 resulting in a convex curve 402 .
  • a concave curve 404 may be implemented with articulation snips or notches 406 that result in the tabs 408 .
  • the articulation snips or notches 406 may be cut when a front of the first piece of fabric 202 and a front of the second piece of fabric 204 are facing one another (i.e., when the necktie is inside-out).
  • the tabs 408 may be folded in, without pleating or bunching of the fabric (e.g., 202 , 204 ), to provide a finished sewn edge 208 resulting in a concave curve 404 .
  • a first piece of fabric 202 typically the front side 104 of the apparel neckpiece 100 and a second piece of fabric 204 , typically the back side of the apparel neckpiece, are cut having matching curves.
  • the two pieces of fabric may be aligned with their curves matching.
  • the edges are then sewn as described above with the resulting concave and/or convex curves.
  • the articulation snips or notches 406 then may be cut and folded in, as described above.
  • FIG. 5 illustrates two examples 500 and 502 showing necktie end pocket options.
  • a conventional necktie relies on a keeper loop to keep the back end of a necktie, typically a narrower end of a necktie, in alignment with the front end of a necktie, typically a broader end of a necktie.
  • a multi-ply necktie may have a full necktie end pocket.
  • a full necktie end pocket is a mechanism that holds one end of the necktie in place by inserting a first end of the necktie into the full necktie end pocket on a second end of the necktie that is opposite the first end of the necktie.
  • a bezel necktie pocket 500 corresponds to a pocket 504 that may hold a necktie end by virtue of the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204 being sewn together (the dotted line illustrates where a back end of the necktie would be situated between the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204 ).
  • the pocket may be constructed with a slit 506 that is finished to prevent fraying. In the illustration 500 , a finished edge is applied to slit 506 .
  • a full necktie pocket is a full width pocket 508 (the dotted line illustrates where a back end of the necktie would be situated between the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204 ).
  • a formal pocket may be constructed by inserting an additional piece of fabric between the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204 and sewing the sides and bottom edges.
  • a front side of the additional piece of fabric may face the front side of the first piece of fabric 202 when the first piece of fabric 202 and second piece of fabric 204 are sewn facing one another (i.e., when the necktie is inside-out).
  • the bottom edge may be a straight edge
  • the bottom of the front end of the necktie may be folded up with the sides sewn to make a pocket.
  • the sewing may occur when a front of the first piece of fabric 202 and a front of the second piece of fabric 204 are facing one another (i.e., when the necktie is inside-out).
  • the top of the full width pocket 508 may be cut straight across, or as in the illustration 502 , may be cut at an angle.
  • a flow chart 600 describes a nonlimiting example process for manufacturing an apparel neckpiece with at least one sewn edge 208 .
  • Block 602 illustrates determining a first distortion threshold distance of a first piece of fabric 202 having a first warp 118 and a first weft 120 .
  • a first piece of fabric 202 is selected and a distortion threshold distance of the fabric is measured.
  • the first piece of fabric 202 is elongated as to be suitable for an apparel neckpiece, and long enough to have a portion of the fabric designated for knotting.
  • the first piece of fabric 202 may have two long edges, one proximate and the other distal.
  • the first piece of fabric 202 may be made of any of the types of fabric described above. As a nonlimiting example, the first piece of fabric 202 could be knit or woven, a single piece of fabric, or a patchwork fabric.
  • the first piece of fabric 202 could be made of fibers that have substantial elasticity or minimal elasticity (i.e., varying distortion threshold distances).
  • Block 604 illustrates determining a second distortion threshold distance of a second piece of fabric 204 having a second warp 118 and a second weft 120 .
  • a second piece of fabric 204 is selected, and its respective distortion threshold distance is measured.
  • the second piece of fabric 204 is also elongated as to be suitable for an apparel neckpiece, and long enough to have a portion of the fabric designated for knotting.
  • the second piece of fabric 204 may also have two long edges, one proximate and the other distal.
  • the second piece of fabric 204 may be made of any of the types of fabric described above.
  • the second piece of fabric 204 could be knit or woven, a single piece of fabric, or a patchwork fabric.
  • the second piece of fabric 204 could be made of fibers that have substantial elasticity or minimal elasticity (i.e., varying distortion threshold distances).
  • the second piece of fabric 204 could be a same type of fabric with same characteristics as the first piece of fabric 202 , or could be a different type of fabric having different characteristics from the first piece of fabric 202 .
  • either the first piece of fabric 202 or the second piece of fabric 204 may be folded at least one time such that either the first piece of fabric 202 and/or the second piece of fabric 204 may comprise one or more layers of fabric.
  • the folds may be secured.
  • the folds may be secured with a sewn edge 208 as described above.
  • the sewn edge 208 may be a straight sewn edge (i.e., the sewn edge 208 is parallel to the bias) or the sewn edge 208 may follow undulating curves as described above.
  • Block 606 illustrates overlaying the first piece of fabric 202 with the second piece of fabric 204 such that the first warp and first weft substantially align with the second warp and the second weft.
  • the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204 may be overlaid with the proximate edge of the first piece of fabric 202 substantially aligned with the proximate edge of the second piece of fabric 204 , and the distal edge of the first piece of fabric 202 substantially aligned with the distal edge of the second piece of fabric 204 .
  • first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204 are overlaid such that the first warp 118 and the first weft 120 of the first piece of fabric 202 substantially align with the second warp 118 and the second weft 120 of the second piece of fabric 204 .
  • Block 608 illustrates, based on the first distortion threshold distance and the second distortion threshold distance, sewing an edge substantially parallel to an elongated edge of the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204 .
  • a front side of the first piece of fabric 202 and a front side of the second piece of fabric 204 are facing one another (i.e., the edge is sewn when the necktie is inside-out).
  • the aligned proximate edges of the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204 may be sewn together with an attaching thread 210 .
  • the aligned distal edges of the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204 also may be sewn together with an attaching thread 210 .
  • the measure of the angle of two or more adjoining interpoint threads 214 of the attaching thread 210 are based at least in part on the predetermined distortion threshold distance of the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204 .
  • the interpoint threads 214 may be sewn to create an obtuse angle with the bias 122 , regardless of the shape or location of the seam line.
  • the interpoint threads 214 may be sewn to create an acute angle with the bias 122 , regardless of the shape or location of the seam line.
  • the length of the attaching thread 210 may exceed the length of the first piece of fabric 202 and/or second piece of fabric 204 when the fabrics are elongated along the first bias 122 and the second bias 122 .
  • the sewn edge 208 may be sewn when the first piece of fabric 202 and second piece of fabric 204 are at substantially equal tension, such that when both fabrics are at zero-point tension, the fabrics do not pucker or otherwise distort the other fabric. Additionally, in at least some embodiments, the attaching thread 210 may be sewn in such a way that the feed tension matches the zero-point tension of the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204 .
  • the aligned proximate edges and the aligned distal edges need not be sewn in entirety.
  • the edges of the knotting area may be selected for sewing leaving the rest of the proximate and distal edges to be handrolled as in a conventional necktie.
  • the edges of the neck area may be selected for sewing, leaving the rest of the proximate and distal edges to be hand rolled, sewn, or fused as in a conventional necktie.
  • additional fabric can be left outside of the sewn edge 208 that may include stitches and/or folds to provide heft and/or durability to the apparel neckpiece.
  • Hoops or another stabilizing apparatus may be used to aid in sewing.
  • the first piece of fabric 202 and second piece of fabric 204 may be fastened inside two concentric sewing hoops prior to sewing to ensure the fabric pieces do not move during sewing.
  • apparel neckpieces may be mass produced by machines used for precutting the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204 .
  • the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204 may be stabilized for sewing as described above and may be sewn using an attaching thread 210 comprising a plurality of incision points 212 and a plurality of interpoint threads 214 .
  • a machine may sew the first piece of fabric 202 to the second piece of fabric 204 prior to cutting the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204 to form the apparel neckpiece.
  • one or more adjacent interpoint threads 214 may comprise an angle relative to the bias wherein the measure of the angle is based at least in part on the distortion threshold distances of the first piece of fabric 202 and second piece of fabric 204 .
  • Undulating curves and/or pockets may be executed as described with respect to FIGS. 5 and 6 , respectively.
  • Block 610 illustrates pressing the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204 to finish the apparel neckpiece.
  • the necktie may be sewn such that a front side of the first piece of fabric 202 and a front side of the second piece of fabric 204 are facing one another (i.e., the necktie is sewn inside-out).
  • the necktie may be turned right-side out so that the front side of the first piece of fabric 202 and the front side of the second piece of fabric 204 are showing.
  • apparel neckpieces may be machine pressed.

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Abstract

Multi-ply apparel neckpieces may feature sewn edges that provide increased flexibility of the apparel neckpiece in high stress areas, such as the knotting area and/or the neck area. Specifically, apparel neckpieces that feature edges sewn along a woven fabric's warp and weft are described. In at least one embodiment, an attaching thread may sew together two or more pieces of fabric, where at least one of the pieces of fabric is a woven fabric. The attaching thread may penetrate the fabric with a plurality of incision points, each pair of adjacent incision points connected by an interpoint portion of the attaching thread. The two or more pieces of fabric may be attached such that the pieces of fabric and the attaching thread are substantively at the same tension at rest.

Description

    BACKGROUND
  • The apparel industry has manufactured a broad range of neckwear including scarves and ties. For example, tie neckpieces include bowties, neckties, and other neckwear pieces. Because ties typically accompany men's suits (i.e., casual, business, executive, tuxedo, etc.), the manufacture and/or sale of tie neckpieces generates a significant amount of revenue.
  • While scarves are typically loosely tied, or often not tied at all, tie neckpieces are typically knotted tightly. In the case of a necktie, the tie is drawn around the wearer's neck, knotted in front of the neck, and the ends are displayed in the front of the wearer. In some embodiments, the ends dangle down in the front of the wearer. From some aesthetic perspectives, a well formed, tight knot is considered the focal point of a suit. Accordingly, common necktie knots may range from a simple loop to a double Windsor knot comprised of three loops. There are even more knots that make use of loops including, but not limited to the Eldredge, Trinity, and Cape knots. Thus, a portion of the necktie comprising the knot, the knotting area, and the portion of the tie around the wearer's neck, bears significantly more stress than the other portions of the tie.
  • Any fabric, including fabric used in a necktie, has limited flexibility. Specifically, a fabric's flexibility is that fabric's ability to return substantially to its original shape after being stretched or otherwise placed under tensile stress. Neckties, and in particular the knotting area and the portion of the tie around the wearer's neck, are stretched and placed under uneven tensile stress. A necktie may be rendered unusable where it has been stretched to the point that it does not return to its original shape. In that case, the integrity of the necktie becomes compromised when the necktie fabric has been stretched beyond its flexibility tolerance.
  • Neckties are typically constructed from pieces of fabric with various flexibility tolerances. One or more additional pieces of fabric may be used as a backing and/or interlining of a necktie. The one or more additional pieces of fabric may also have different flexibility tolerances. Furthermore, attaching threads, the threads used to sew the one or more pieces of fabric together, may have different flexibility tolerances as well. Thus, if a high stress area, such as a knotting area and/or the area around the wearer's neck, is sewn in a conventional manner, bunching and/or separation of individual threads may result from combining fabrics having different flexibility tolerances.
  • In one approach to avoid fabric separation, existing neckties utilize the concept of folding, while keeping sewing to a minimum. For instance, a high end necktie may feature seven folds and have hand rolled edges, with sewing limited to a keeper loop, tag, a bar tack stitch and/or a slip stitch to prevent pieces of the necktie from separating. Due the limited amount of sewing, fabrics with different flexibility tolerances are rarely used for neckties, and neckties generally use a specialized iron for pressing. Accordingly, folded neckties are limited in their structural features and the fabrics that may be used for their creation.
  • BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
  • The Detailed Description is set forth with reference to the accompanying figures. In the figures, the left-most digit(s) of a reference use of the same reference numbers in different figures indicates similar or identical items.
  • FIG. 1 is an example illustration of a necktie and its constituent parts.
  • FIG. 2 is an example illustration of a multi-ply apparel neckpiece and its constituent parts.
  • FIG. 3 is an example illustration of a sewn edge of two or more pieces of fabric.
  • FIG. 4 is an example illustration of a multi-ply apparel neckpiece with undulating curves executed with articulation snips.
  • FIG. 5 is an example illustration of two multi-ply apparel neckpieces with pockets for one of the ends of the apparel neckpieces.
  • FIG. 6 is an example flow chart of a process for manufacturing a multi-ply apparel neckpiece.
  • DETAILED DESCRIPTION The Context of the Apparel Neckpiece
  • Before discussing a shape preserving apparel neckpiece, it is useful to introduce some terminology derived from a conventional necktie. A conventional necktie 100 is shown with respect to FIG. 1.
  • A necktie 100 is generally made of at least one elongated piece of fabric 102, with one end of the necktie 100 being broader than the other end. The broader end typically has a front side 104 that is visible and may have an aesthetic or expressive pattern. The length of the necktie 100 constitutes the axis of elongation 106. When the necktie 100 is being worn, the axis of elongation 106 is a vertical, or an approximately vertical, axis. The centerline (not shown) is the center of the necktie along the axis of elongation 106 and is approximately parallel with respect to the axis of elongation.
  • Neckties 100 typically utilize folds and creases to provide structure, often with a minimum amount of sewing. In some embodiments, backlining or interfacing may be added to a necktie to provide structure. The edges of a necktie 100 are generally not sewn, but are instead rolled. Specifically, the edge of the necktie 100 is folded over multiple times, and is then creased by a pressing process (e.g., pressing the necktie with an iron). The pressed crease maintains the shape of the necktie's 100 construction. In FIG. 1, a rolled edge 108 is shown.
  • Generally, a second piece of fabric is attached to a back side of the necktie 100 to provide a backlining. In some embodiments, the attachment mechanism used to attach the first piece of fabric to the second piece of fabric may be an adhesive, tack stitches, or a stitch that follows the fibers. In embodiments where the backlining shows at the tips of a back side of a necktie, that backlining is called the tip lining 110.
  • Sewing may be employed in a necktie 100 in several embodiments. For example, a brand of a necktie 100 is typically attached via a small strip of fabric, referred to as the tag 112, and is sewn into the back side of the necktie 100. Additionally or alternatively, the back side of the necktie 100 may include a small loop, usually made from a strip of fabric, that is laid substantially perpendicular to the centerline of the necktie 100. This loop, called a keeper loop 114, may be used to hold the narrower end of a necktie 100 in a relatively fixed position. In at least one embodiment, because the keeper loop 114 may elongate and distort at different rates, the keeper loop 114 is typically attached to the centerline of the necktie 100, rather than the keeper loop 114 being attached with two separate connection points at each end of the keeper loop 114. Also, a single tack stitch, called a bar tack 116, may be used in some embodiments to stabilize, or possibly to provide strength to, interfacing of the necktie 100. A slip stitch (not shown), may be used to sew a necktie 100 closed following folding and/or pinning.
  • As may be seen in the magnified image with respect to items 118, 120, and 122, a woven fabric is made of individual orthogonally oriented threads 118 and 120. Each thread is made of multiple fibers. The threads perpendicular to the direction of a fabric are called the warp 118, and the threads along the length of a fabric are called the weft 120. Generally, woven fabrics have a bias 122. The bias 122 is an invisible plane that intersects the warp 118 and the weft 120 at approximately 45 degrees when the woven fabric is in approximately a relaxed state, free of any application of stress or tension parallel or perpendicular to an axis of elongation 106 (i.e., zero-point tension).
  • When a necktie 100 is tied, the fabric is pulled parallel to the axis of elongation 106 and perpendicular to the axis of elongation 106. Thus, if a necktie 100 were constructed with the centerline parallel to the warp 118 or the weft 120, the fabric 102 may have a limited flexibility. For example, if the centerline of the necktie 100 is parallel to the warp 118 or the weft 120, and if the fabric 102 is pulled parallel or perpendicular to the axis of elongation 106 beyond a threshold, the fabric 102 may tear. Additionally, the edges of the fabric 102 may have different flexibilities. As a result, the fabric 102 may contort. For at least these reasons, the centerline of a necktie 100, is typically along the bias 122, which is diagonal to the warp 118 and the weft 120, in order to maximize the flexibility of the fabric 102.
  • In contrast with woven fabrics, knit fabrics have threads that are looped and purled to form fabrics comprised of interlocking loops. In at least some embodiments, since each thread in a knit fabric is interlocked with its adjoining thread via interlocking stitches, knit fabric tends to be more flexible than woven fabrics. However, this advantage is negated where a knit fabric is bound to a woven fabric, since the flexibility of the combined fabrics is now limited by the less flexible woven fabric.
  • Multi-Ply Apparel Neckpiece
  • The systems and/or processes described herein relate to a multi-ply apparel neckpiece. Specifically, the systems and/or processes described herein describe an apparel neckpiece where, in at least one embodiment, different woven fabrics are sewn together with an attaching thread substantially along the warp and/or the weft of the woven fabrics. In some embodiments, the attaching thread has a greater flexibility than the flexibility of the woven fabrics. As a result, the woven fabrics in which the attaching thread is sewn may return to their original shape even if the woven fabrics are repeatedly stretched and/or strained. In some embodiments, when the attaching thread substantially follows the warp and/or the weft of the woven fabrics, the attaching threads do not inhibit the flexibility of the bias. In this way, the flexibilities of the woven fabrics may be maintained without compromising the integrity of a seam of the woven fabrics. FIG. 2 illustrates an embodiment of the multi-ply apparel neckpiece 200 when the woven fabric is sewn with the attaching threads oriented substantially along the warp and/or weft of a woven fabric. While the descriptions herein describe woven fabrics, a similar technique may also be used for knit fabrics.
  • In some embodiments, the apparel neckpiece 200 includes a first piece of fabric 202 that may be on the front side 104 of the apparel neckpiece 200 and a second piece of fabric 204 that may be on the back side of the apparel neckpiece 200. The first piece of fabric 202 may have a first bias and the second piece of fabric 204 may have a second bias. The first bias is the invisible plane that intersects the warp 118 and the weft 120 of the first piece of fabric at approximately 45 degrees. The second bias is the invisible plane that intersects the warp 118 and the weft 120 of the second piece of fabric at approximately 45 degrees. The first piece of fabric 202 may overlay the second piece of fabric 204 such that the first bias and the second bias are substantially aligned. Both the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204 may be elongated and have an axis of elongation 106. The centerline 206 of the necktie may be along the axis of elongation 106, parallel to the bias 122 of the pieces of fabric.
  • A consequence of having sewn edges on the apparel neckpiece 200 is that the apparel neckpiece 200 may be constructed from fabrics with a broad variety of distortion threshold distances. In at least some embodiments, the distortion threshold distance may refer to the vertical and/or horizontal elasticity of a fiber or fabric, or the ability of the fiber or fabric to return to its original length, shape, or size immediately or shortly after the removal of stress. In at least one embodiment, the first piece of fabric 202 and/or the second piece of fabric 204 may include fabrics that are not typically used for making neckties, including but not limited to leather, fur, and artificial fur. Additionally, in some embodiments, dissimilar fabric or cloth types may be used for an apparel neckpiece 200. Moreover, different, but complementary, pairs of fabric may be combined in an apparel neckpiece 200 for aesthetic effect. Specifically, complementary fabrics are materials that provide contrast in texture, thickness, or other fabric properties (e.g., color, etc.). For example, leather paired with silk provides a contrast in texture, sheen, and thickness.
  • Alternatively, in some embodiments, unmatched cloth types may be used in tandem or in combination to simply provide contrast in pattern and/or print. For example, one version of using unmatched cloth types is to make a patchwork, where one or more scraps of different kinds of cloth are sewn together into a single piece of fabric, and where contrasting scraps provide an aesthetic pattern. The different kinds of cloth may have different distortion threshold distances, or the distortion threshold distances of the different kinds of cloth may be similar.
  • In at least some embodiments, additional pieces of fabric may be added to the first piece of fabric 202 and/or second piece of fabric 204 to provide backing, interfacing, or lining.
  • In some embodiments, the first piece of fabric 202 may display a pattern on the front side 104 of the necktie 200 facing away from the wearer. The second piece of fabric 204 may be backing fabric added to the first piece of fabric 202 to provide a different color or pattern. In this way, when the necktie is folded, the different patterns may provide an aesthetic effect. The backing fabric may offer support and/or heft to the apparel neckpiece.
  • In at least one embodiment, an interfacing (not shown) may aid in stiffening or adding heft to the necktie 200. In at least some embodiments, the interfacing may be a fabric added to the first piece of fabric 202 and/or the second piece of fabric 204, for example, between the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204. The interfacing may be associated with, or affixed to, the first piece of fabric 202 and/or the second piece of fabric 204 by a stitch, fuse, bond, etc. In at least some embodiments, the interfacing may not be attached at all, but may hang as a piece that may support the shape of the necktie 200 without being added to the first piece of fabric 202 and/or the second piece of fabric 204. Furthermore, in some embodiments, the second piece of fabric 204 may offer support to the first piece of fabric 202 and thus may eliminate the need for interfacing.
  • Lining is fabric that may be added to a first piece of fabric 202 to provide a different color or pattern, but only in select portions of a garment. In the case of necktie apparel, the tip lining portion 110 in FIG. 1 is an example of lining.
  • In at least one embodiment, the first piece of fabric 202 and second piece of fabric 204 may have a proximate (i.e., close) edge and a distal (i.e., far) edge. Unlike a conventional necktie, at least part of either the proximate or distal edges, or both, may be a sewn edge 208 (exaggerated out of proportion to show the detail of the sewn edge). Specifically, the edge may be sewn with an attaching thread 210. A length of the attaching thread 210 may be greater than a length of the first piece of fabric 202 and a length of the second piece of fabric 204 when the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204 are elongated along the first bias and the second bias.
  • The attaching thread 210 may include a plurality of incision points 212 and a plurality of interpoint threads 214. The plurality of incision points 212 are the plurality of points where the attaching thread 210 penetrates the first piece of fabric 202 and/or second piece of fabric 204. A frequency of the plurality of incision points 212 (i.e., the number and spacing of the plurality of incision points 212 along the attaching thread 210) may depend on a predetermined distortion threshold distance of the first piece of fabric 202 and/or a predetermined distortion threshold distance of the second piece of fabric 204.
  • In at least some embodiments, two adjacent incision points 212 of the plurality of incision points 212 may be joined by an interpoint thread 214 of the plurality of interpoint threads 214. In some embodiments, one or more adjoining interpoint threads 214 may create an angle relative to the first bias and the second bias, or the centerline 206. A measure of the angle may depend on a predetermined distortion threshold distance of the first piece of fabric 202 and/or a predetermined distortion threshold distance of the second piece of fabric 204. Depending on the predetermined distortion threshold distances, the measure of the angle may be such that the angle may be an acute, obtuse, or approximately right angle.
  • As described in the context of FIG. 2, sewing the attaching thread 210 such that it substantially follows the warp 118 and/or the weft 120 of the woven fabrics, may allow the attaching thread 210 to move freely with the threads of the woven fabrics. Therefore, the flexibility of the woven fabrics may be maintained without compromising the integrity of the woven fabrics. The techniques and systems described above permit different fabrics to be sewn together to create unique neckties.
  • FIG. 3 illustrates an enlarged view of the sewn edge 208. The sewn edge 208 may be located on the first piece of fabric 202 and/or the second piece of fabric 204. In FIG. 3, the attaching thread 210 is shown such that individual incision points 212 of the plurality of incision points 212 are located on or near the sewn edge 208 of the piece of fabric shown. For the purpose of FIG. 3, the sewn edge 208 is parallel to the bias 122. A first interpoint thread 214 forms a first side of the angle relative to the bias 122 and a second interpoint thread 214 forms a second side of the angle relative to the bias 122. However, in some embodiments, one or more interpoint threads 214 may form the first side of the angle relative to the bias 122 and one or more interpoint threads 214 may form the second side of the angle relative to the bias 122. In some embodiments, the sewn edge 208 may not be parallel to the bias 122, and in such embodiments, the angle formed by the interpoint threads 214 may reference the bias 122 even though the sewn edge 108 may not.
  • In at least one embodiment, a stitch sufficient to withstand repeated stretching may be sewn so that the attaching thread 210 follows the warp 118 and/or weft 120 (i.e., the one or more adjoining interpoint threads 214 form approximately a right angle). However, in some embodiments, the attaching thread 210 diverges from the warp 118 and/or the weft 120 (i.e., the one or more adjoining interpoint threads 214 form acute or obtuse angles), and the attaching thread 210 may still form a stitch sufficient to withstand repeated stretching. The attaching thread 210 may be sewn using a variety of stitches. For example, the attaching thread may be sewn using a chain stitch, a lock stitch, a cover stitch, a cross-stitch, etc.
  • In some embodiments the threads and/or fibers of a piece of fabric (e.g., 202 and/or 204) may be elastic and, thus, may easily change form (e.g., stretch, etc.). In such embodiments, the angle formed by the attaching thread 210 may be different from a right angle. Nevertheless, the attaching thread 210 and resulting angle may still form a stitch sufficient to withstand repeated stretching. For example, if either the first piece of fabric 202 or the second piece of fabric 204 has a distortion threshold distance such that, upon placing stress on the piece of fabric (e.g., 202 and/or 204), the piece of fabric is stretched so the threads comprising the fabric have a relatively long distance to travel to return to their original configuration (i.e., high elasticity), then the angle relative to the first bias and the second bias may be an acute angle. In such an embodiment, the pieces of fabric may have space between the threads and/or fibers making up the fabric and thus may have a relatively large distortion threshold distance.
  • In an alternative example, if either the first piece of fabric 202 or the second piece of fabric 204 has a distortion threshold distance such that, upon placing stress on the piece of fabric (e.g., 202 and/or 204), the piece of fabric is stretched so the threads comprising the fabric have a relatively short distance to travel to return to their original configuration (i.e., low elasticity), then the angle relative to the first bias and the second bias may be an obtuse angle. In such an embodiment, the pieces of fabric may be more tightly woven and have a relatively small distortion threshold distance.
  • The measure of the angle relative to the first bias and the second bias may vary depending on the distortion threshold distances of the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204, as described above. Additionally, the measure of the angle relative to the first bias and the second bias may vary based on the elasticity of the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204, the elasticity of the individual threads and/or fibers of the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204, and/or the density (i.e., thread count) by which the threads and/or fibers of the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204 are woven.
  • In FIG. 3, lines 302(1)-302(N) represent example placements for individual incision points 212 of the plurality of incision points 212 that are not located on the bias. Similarly, lines 304(1)-304(N) represent example placements for individual incision points 212 of the plurality of incision points 212 that are located on the bias. In both embodiments, the lines are substantially parallel to the warp 118 and/or the weft 120. That is, if the attaching thread 210 substantially follows lines 302(1)-302(N) and 304(1)-304(N), the angle relative to the bias should measure approximately a right angle with respect to the bias. However, as long as the incision points 212 are located either on or above lines 302(1)-302(N) and 304(1)-304(N) (i.e., forming approximately right or acute angles with the bias), as shown in FIG. 3, the attaching thread 210 may still form a stitch sufficient to withstand repeated stretching. In some embodiments, as described above, the incision points 212 may be located below lines 302(1)-302(N) and 304(1)-304(N) (i.e., forming an obtuse angle with the bias), and the attaching thread 210 may still form a stitch sufficient to withstand repeated stretching. A sewn edge 208 similar to the one illustrated in FIG. 3 may be appropriate when the threads and/or fibers of a piece of fabric (e.g., 202 and/or 204) are not elastic and/or do not easily change form. That is, FIG. 3 illustrates a sewn edge 208 in an embodiment where the threads and/or fibers of the fabric are not flexible.
  • In some embodiments, the attaching thread 210 may be sewn in such a way that the first piece of fabric 202 and second piece of fabric 204 are at substantively equal tension. When a fabric is not under any stress, the fabric is at zero-point tension (i.e., at rest, relaxed, etc.). Thus, in at least some embodiments, the attaching thread 210 may attach the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204, such that when both fabrics are at zero-point tension, the fabrics do not pucker or otherwise distort the other fabric.
  • Generally, the tension of a stitch is regulated by a feed tension associated with a sewing machine. In at least some embodiments, the attaching thread 210 may be attached in such a way that the feed tension matches the zero-point tension of the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204. For example, the attaching thread 210 may be attached such that when the attaching thread 210 is at rest, it does not place stress on the first piece of fabric 202 and/or second piece of fabric 204. As a result, when both pieces of fabric are at zero-point tension, they do not pucker, or otherwise distort. In embodiments where the first piece of fabric 202 and/or the second piece of fabric 204 include patchwork, the feed tension may vary throughout the sewn edge 208 depending on the distortion threshold distance of the one or more scraps of the plurality of different kinds of fabric that make up the patchwork.
  • Returning back to FIG. 2, in embodiments where the design may look like a conventional necktie, the sewn edges 208 may be limited to a knotting area 216 and/or a neck area 218. When the necktie 200 is knotted, the knotting area 216 is the portion of the necktie 200 that comprises the knot, and the neck area 218 is the area of the necktie 200 that wraps around the wearer's neck. The knotting area 216 and the neck area 218 are subject to a high degree of strain and tension with relation to the entire necktie 200, and accordingly benefit from the additional flexibility afforded by sewn edges 208.
  • Additional Apparel Neckpieces Options Made Available with Sewn Edges
  • Sewn edges provide design options not available with conventional neckties, such as undulating curves and necktie end storage designs. FIG. 4 provides an example 400 of undulating curves and articulation snips. FIG. 5 provides two examples 500 and 502 of necktie end pockets.
  • FIG. 4 illustrates an undulating curve 400 associated with a necktie. Conventional neckties having hand-rolled edges rely on creases to provide their form. Thus, conventional necktie edges are typically straight lines, and not curved. However, with sewn edges, a necktie need not rely on creases, and therefore may have undulating curves (i.e., curves that may turn in and/or out) with respect to the axis of elongation 106. An example of a curve turning out is a convex curve 402. An example of a curve turning in is a concave curve 404. In some embodiments, undulating curves may be smooth and/or jagged.
  • A convex curve 402 may be implemented with articulation snips or notches 406 that result in tabs 408. The articulation snips or notches 406 may be cut when a front of the first piece of fabric 202 and a front of the second piece of fabric 204 are facing one another (i.e., when the necktie is inside-out). The tabs 408 may be folded in, without pleating or bunching of the fabric (e.g., 202, 204) to provide a finished sewn edge 208 resulting in a convex curve 402.
  • A concave curve 404 may be implemented with articulation snips or notches 406 that result in the tabs 408. The articulation snips or notches 406 may be cut when a front of the first piece of fabric 202 and a front of the second piece of fabric 204 are facing one another (i.e., when the necktie is inside-out). The tabs 408 may be folded in, without pleating or bunching of the fabric (e.g., 202, 204), to provide a finished sewn edge 208 resulting in a concave curve 404.
  • In at least one embodiment of constructing an apparel neckpiece, a first piece of fabric 202, typically the front side 104 of the apparel neckpiece 100 and a second piece of fabric 204, typically the back side of the apparel neckpiece, are cut having matching curves. The two pieces of fabric may be aligned with their curves matching. The edges are then sewn as described above with the resulting concave and/or convex curves. The articulation snips or notches 406 then may be cut and folded in, as described above.
  • FIG. 5 illustrates two examples 500 and 502 showing necktie end pocket options. A conventional necktie relies on a keeper loop to keep the back end of a necktie, typically a narrower end of a necktie, in alignment with the front end of a necktie, typically a broader end of a necktie. In contrast, in at least one embodiment, a multi-ply necktie may have a full necktie end pocket. A full necktie end pocket is a mechanism that holds one end of the necktie in place by inserting a first end of the necktie into the full necktie end pocket on a second end of the necktie that is opposite the first end of the necktie.
  • A bezel necktie pocket 500 corresponds to a pocket 504 that may hold a necktie end by virtue of the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204 being sewn together (the dotted line illustrates where a back end of the necktie would be situated between the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204). The pocket may be constructed with a slit 506 that is finished to prevent fraying. In the illustration 500, a finished edge is applied to slit 506.
  • Another variation of a full necktie pocket is a full width pocket 508 (the dotted line illustrates where a back end of the necktie would be situated between the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204). In a full width pocket 508, a formal pocket may be constructed by inserting an additional piece of fabric between the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204 and sewing the sides and bottom edges. In at least one embodiment, a front side of the additional piece of fabric may face the front side of the first piece of fabric 202 when the first piece of fabric 202 and second piece of fabric 204 are sewn facing one another (i.e., when the necktie is inside-out). Alternatively, where the bottom edge may be a straight edge, the bottom of the front end of the necktie may be folded up with the sides sewn to make a pocket. The sewing may occur when a front of the first piece of fabric 202 and a front of the second piece of fabric 204 are facing one another (i.e., when the necktie is inside-out). The top of the full width pocket 508 may be cut straight across, or as in the illustration 502, may be cut at an angle. These designs allow one end of a necktie to hold an opposite end of the necktie in place via a full necktie end pocket mechanism.
  • Manufacturing Processes for a Shape Preserving Apparel Neckpiece
  • Portions of the previous discussion have been directed to describing an apparel neckpiece with at least one sewn edge 208. Turning to FIG. 6, a flow chart 600 describes a nonlimiting example process for manufacturing an apparel neckpiece with at least one sewn edge 208.
  • Block 602 illustrates determining a first distortion threshold distance of a first piece of fabric 202 having a first warp 118 and a first weft 120. A first piece of fabric 202 is selected and a distortion threshold distance of the fabric is measured. The first piece of fabric 202 is elongated as to be suitable for an apparel neckpiece, and long enough to have a portion of the fabric designated for knotting. The first piece of fabric 202 may have two long edges, one proximate and the other distal. The first piece of fabric 202 may be made of any of the types of fabric described above. As a nonlimiting example, the first piece of fabric 202 could be knit or woven, a single piece of fabric, or a patchwork fabric. The first piece of fabric 202 could be made of fibers that have substantial elasticity or minimal elasticity (i.e., varying distortion threshold distances).
  • Block 604 illustrates determining a second distortion threshold distance of a second piece of fabric 204 having a second warp 118 and a second weft 120. A second piece of fabric 204 is selected, and its respective distortion threshold distance is measured. As with the first piece of fabric 202, the second piece of fabric 204 is also elongated as to be suitable for an apparel neckpiece, and long enough to have a portion of the fabric designated for knotting. As with the first piece of fabric 202, the second piece of fabric 204 may also have two long edges, one proximate and the other distal. The second piece of fabric 204 may be made of any of the types of fabric described above. As a nonlimiting example, the second piece of fabric 204 could be knit or woven, a single piece of fabric, or a patchwork fabric. The second piece of fabric 204 could be made of fibers that have substantial elasticity or minimal elasticity (i.e., varying distortion threshold distances). Furthermore, the second piece of fabric 204 could be a same type of fabric with same characteristics as the first piece of fabric 202, or could be a different type of fabric having different characteristics from the first piece of fabric 202.
  • In some embodiments, either the first piece of fabric 202 or the second piece of fabric 204 may be folded at least one time such that either the first piece of fabric 202 and/or the second piece of fabric 204 may comprise one or more layers of fabric. In such embodiments, the folds may be secured. For example, the folds may be secured with a sewn edge 208 as described above. The sewn edge 208 may be a straight sewn edge (i.e., the sewn edge 208 is parallel to the bias) or the sewn edge 208 may follow undulating curves as described above.
  • Block 606 illustrates overlaying the first piece of fabric 202 with the second piece of fabric 204 such that the first warp and first weft substantially align with the second warp and the second weft. The first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204 may be overlaid with the proximate edge of the first piece of fabric 202 substantially aligned with the proximate edge of the second piece of fabric 204, and the distal edge of the first piece of fabric 202 substantially aligned with the distal edge of the second piece of fabric 204. That is, the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204 are overlaid such that the first warp 118 and the first weft 120 of the first piece of fabric 202 substantially align with the second warp 118 and the second weft 120 of the second piece of fabric 204.
  • Block 608 illustrates, based on the first distortion threshold distance and the second distortion threshold distance, sewing an edge substantially parallel to an elongated edge of the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204. In at least one embodiment, a front side of the first piece of fabric 202 and a front side of the second piece of fabric 204 are facing one another (i.e., the edge is sewn when the necktie is inside-out).
  • The aligned proximate edges of the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204 may be sewn together with an attaching thread 210. Similarly, the aligned distal edges of the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204 also may be sewn together with an attaching thread 210. As described above, the measure of the angle of two or more adjoining interpoint threads 214 of the attaching thread 210 are based at least in part on the predetermined distortion threshold distance of the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204. As described above, when the first piece of fabric 202 or the second piece of fabric 204 are made of less elastic fibers, the interpoint threads 214 may be sewn to create an obtuse angle with the bias 122, regardless of the shape or location of the seam line. In alternative embodiments, when the first piece of fabric 202 and/or the second piece of fabric 204 are made of highly elastic fibers, the interpoint threads 214 may be sewn to create an acute angle with the bias 122, regardless of the shape or location of the seam line. In at least some embodiments, the length of the attaching thread 210 may exceed the length of the first piece of fabric 202 and/or second piece of fabric 204 when the fabrics are elongated along the first bias 122 and the second bias 122.
  • As discussed above, the sewn edge 208 may be sewn when the first piece of fabric 202 and second piece of fabric 204 are at substantially equal tension, such that when both fabrics are at zero-point tension, the fabrics do not pucker or otherwise distort the other fabric. Additionally, in at least some embodiments, the attaching thread 210 may be sewn in such a way that the feed tension matches the zero-point tension of the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204.
  • In some embodiments, the aligned proximate edges and the aligned distal edges need not be sewn in entirety. For example, the edges of the knotting area may be selected for sewing leaving the rest of the proximate and distal edges to be handrolled as in a conventional necktie. Additionally, the edges of the neck area may be selected for sewing, leaving the rest of the proximate and distal edges to be hand rolled, sewn, or fused as in a conventional necktie.
  • Additionally, in some embodiments, additional fabric can be left outside of the sewn edge 208 that may include stitches and/or folds to provide heft and/or durability to the apparel neckpiece.
  • Hoops or another stabilizing apparatus may be used to aid in sewing. Specifically, the first piece of fabric 202 and second piece of fabric 204 may be fastened inside two concentric sewing hoops prior to sewing to ensure the fabric pieces do not move during sewing.
  • In general, apparel neckpieces may be mass produced by machines used for precutting the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204. The first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204 may be stabilized for sewing as described above and may be sewn using an attaching thread 210 comprising a plurality of incision points 212 and a plurality of interpoint threads 214. In at least some embodiments, a machine may sew the first piece of fabric 202 to the second piece of fabric 204 prior to cutting the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204 to form the apparel neckpiece. As described above, one or more adjacent interpoint threads 214 may comprise an angle relative to the bias wherein the measure of the angle is based at least in part on the distortion threshold distances of the first piece of fabric 202 and second piece of fabric 204. Undulating curves and/or pockets may be executed as described with respect to FIGS. 5 and 6, respectively.
  • Block 610 illustrates pressing the first piece of fabric 202 and the second piece of fabric 204 to finish the apparel neckpiece. As described above, the necktie may be sewn such that a front side of the first piece of fabric 202 and a front side of the second piece of fabric 204 are facing one another (i.e., the necktie is sewn inside-out). Once the sewing is complete, the necktie may be turned right-side out so that the front side of the first piece of fabric 202 and the front side of the second piece of fabric 204 are showing. Finally, apparel neckpieces may be machine pressed.
  • CONCLUSION
  • Although the subject matter has been described in language specific to structural features and/or methodological acts, it is to be understood that the subject matter defined in the appended claims is not necessarily limited to the specific features or acts described above. Rather, the specific features and acts described above are disclosed as example forms of implementing the claims.

Claims (20)

What is claimed is:
1. A sewn edge on a necktie apparel defined by:
an attaching thread that attaches a first piece of fabric having a first bias to a second piece of fabric having a second bias, the first piece of fabric overlaying the second piece of fabric such that the first bias and the second bias are substantially aligned, the attaching thread comprising:
a plurality of incision points that penetrate the first piece of fabric and the second piece of fabric; and
a plurality of interpoint threads, wherein:
a particular interpoint thread of the plurality of interpoint threads joins a first incision point of the plurality of incision points to a second adjacent incision point of the plurality of incision points; and
one or more adjoining interpoint threads of the plurality of interpoint threads comprise an angle relative to the first bias and the second bias.
2. The sewn edge of claim 1, wherein a measure of the angle is based at least in part on a first predetermined distortion threshold distance of the first piece of fabric and a second predetermined distortion threshold distance of the second piece of fabric.
3. The sewn edge of claim 1, wherein a frequency of the plurality of incision points is based at least in part on a first predetermined distortion threshold distance of the first piece of fabric and a second predetermined distortion threshold distance of the second piece of fabric.
4. The sewn edge of claim 1, wherein the angle is an obtuse angle when the first piece of fabric, the second piece of fabric, or both the first piece of fabric and the second piece of fabric have a distortion threshold distance that is determined to be at or below a threshold.
5. The sewn edge of claim 1, wherein:
the first piece of fabric has a first warp and a first weft;
the second piece of fabric has a second warp and a second weft, the first warp and the first weft being substantially aligned with the second warp and the second weft; and
the two adjoining interpoint threads of the plurality of interpoint threads are sewn substantially along the first warp and the second warp and the first weft and the second weft such as to form approximately a right angle relative to the first bias and the second bias.
6. The sewn edge of claim 1, wherein the angle is an acute angle.
7. The sewn edge of claim 1, wherein a length of the attaching thread is greater than a length of the first piece of fabric and a length of the second piece of fabric when the first piece of fabric and the second piece of fabric are elongated along the first bias and the second bias.
8. An apparel neckpiece, comprising:
a first piece of fabric having a first warp, a first weft, and a first bias;
a second piece of fabric having a second warp, a second weft, and a second bias, wherein the first piece of fabric overlays the second piece of fabric such that the first warp, the first weft, and the first bias are substantially aligned with the second warp, the second weft, and the second bias; and
a sewn edge defined by a plurality of incision points and a plurality of interpoint threads, wherein:
the plurality of incision points penetrate the first piece of fabric and the second piece of fabric;
a particular interpoint thread of the plurality of interpoint threads joins a first incision point of the plurality of incision points to a second adjacent incision point of the plurality of incision points; and
two or more interpoint threads of the plurality of interpoint threads form an angle relative to the first bias and the second bias.
9. The apparel neckpiece of claim 8, wherein a measure of the angle is based at least in part on a first predetermined distortion threshold distance of the first piece of fabric and a second predetermined distortion threshold distance of the second piece of fabric.
10. The apparel neckpiece of claim 8, wherein the first piece of fabric is a front fabric and the second piece of fabric is at least one of:
a backing fabric;
an interfacing fabric; or
a lining fabric.
11. The apparel neckpiece of claim 8, wherein the sewn edge is limited to a knotting area of the apparel neckpiece.
12. The apparel neckpiece of claim 8, wherein the sewn edge is limited to a neck area of the apparel neckpiece.
13. The apparel neckpiece of claim 8, wherein the first piece of fabric, the second piece of fabric, or both the first piece of fabric and the second piece of fabric is a patchwork fabric.
14. The apparel neckpiece of claim 8, wherein a substantial length of the first piece of fabric and the second piece of fabric includes matching undulating curves.
15. The apparel neckpiece of claim 14, wherein the matching undulating curves of the first piece of fabric and the second piece of fabric are executed with articulation snips.
16. The apparel neckpiece of claim 8, wherein the apparel neckpiece includes a first end and a second end, the first end including a pocket for the second end.
17. A method comprising:
determining a first distortion threshold distance of a first piece of fabric, the first piece of fabric having a first warp and a first weft;
determining a second distortion threshold distance of a second piece of fabric, the second piece of fabric having a second warp and a second weft;
overlaying the first piece of fabric with the second piece of fabric such that the first warp and first weft substantially align with the second warp and second weft; and
sewing an edge parallel to an elongated edge of the first piece of fabric overlaying the second piece of fabric, the edge defined by a plurality of incision points and a plurality of interpoint threads, wherein:
the plurality of incision points penetrate the first piece of fabric and the second piece of fabric;
a particular interpoint thread of the plurality of interpoint threads joins a first incision point of the plurality of incision points to a second adjacent incision point of the plurality of incision points; and
two or more adjoining interpoint threads form an angle relative to a first bias of the first piece of fabric and a second bias of the second piece of fabric, a measure of the angle being based at least in part on the first distortion threshold distance and the second distortion threshold distance.
18. The method of claim 17, wherein sewing the edge parallel to the elongated edge of the first piece of fabric overlaying the second piece of fabric comprises:
sewing the edge such that the first piece of fabric and the second piece of fabric are at zero-point tension; and
sewing the edge such that a feed tension corresponds to the zero-point tension.
19. The method of claim 17, wherein the two adjoining interpoint threads are sewn substantially along the first warp and the second warp and the first weft and the second weft to form approximately a right angle relative to the first bias and the second bias.
20. The method of claim 17, wherein the plurality of incision points and the plurality of interpoint threads comprise an attaching thread and a length of the attaching thread is greater than a length of the first piece of fabric and a length of the second piece of fabric when the first piece of fabric and the second piece of fabric are elongated along the first bias and the second bias.
US14/268,838 2014-05-02 2014-05-02 Multi-ply apparel neckpiece Pending US20150313299A1 (en)

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US20170095020A1 (en) * 2015-10-02 2017-04-06 John Joseph Hansen System for correctly tying a dress tie in a single attempt

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US3206765A (en) * 1964-02-10 1965-09-21 Sherman Sol Necktie with money pocket
US3562814A (en) * 1969-02-06 1971-02-16 Collins & Aikman Corp Necktie lining and neckwear construction
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US3562814A (en) * 1969-02-06 1971-02-16 Collins & Aikman Corp Necktie lining and neckwear construction
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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
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US20170095020A1 (en) * 2015-10-02 2017-04-06 John Joseph Hansen System for correctly tying a dress tie in a single attempt

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