JP4776607B2 - Sewing method for clothing cuff and sewing method for clothing sleeve - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a garment, and specifically relates to a garment that is easy to put on and take off and has a good feeling during use.

  Conventionally, many garments using stretchable fabrics are commercially available. In this specification, “stretchability” refers to the property of extending in the direction of the force by an external force. Clothing using stretchable fabric has good wearing feeling and is easy to put on and take off. For example, in order to make it easy to pass through the wearer's head, a garment is disclosed that uses a material that expands and contracts in the circumferential direction as an interlining of the buttocks (Patent Document 1).

Here, for example, the upper garment usually includes a plurality of patterns such as a front body, a back body, a sleeve, and a sleeve body. In order to complete these as one garment, each pattern is stitched with a suture thread. A stitched portion is formed at the portion stitched by the suture thread, but this stitched portion is generally formed linearly along the pattern because of the nature of stitching each pattern.
JP 2002-275715 A

However, in the conventional garment, even if a stretchable fabric is used, the stretch of the fabric is limited in the portion where the stitched portion is formed. For example, you can take advantage of the characteristics of stretchable fabrics, such as feeling tight when you put your hands on the sleeves or roll up the sleeves to wear an upper garment, or feel the tension of the fabric when you move your body after wearing it. There wasn't.
This will be specifically described. FIG. 8 shows a sleeve portion 100 of a conventional upper garment made of a stretchable fabric. Here, Fig.8 (a) is a front view of the sleeve part 100, FIG.8 (b) is a development view of the sleeve part 100 described in (a). As shown in FIG. 8A, the sleeve portion 100 is formed with a sleeve end stitch portion 110 and a sleeve lower stitch portion 112. When the lower sleeve stitched portion 112 is unwound, it is developed as shown in FIG.

  As shown in FIGS. 8 (a) and 8 (b), the sleeve end stitching portion 110 of the sleeve portion 100 of the conventional upper garment is substantially the same as the sleeve edge 114 along the sleeve fold (not shown). It was formed in parallel and linearly. In such a sleeve end stitched portion 110, unless an elastic thread is used, the stretch of the fabric during use of the upper garment is limited to the length L of the sleeve end stitched portion 110. That is, if the cloth extending direction when the sleeve 100 is used is X, the cloth of the sleeve 100 exerts a force that extends in the X direction when used, but the sleeve end stitching part 110 does not extend, so that the elasticity is increased. There has been a problem that the inherent properties of the fabrics it has cannot be utilized.

  Therefore, an object of the present invention is to provide a garment that does not impair the properties of a stretchable fabric.

  As a result of the study, the present inventor obtained knowledge that a cloth that does not impair the stretchability of the fabric can be obtained by defining the relationship between the stitched portion and the fabric according to the stretchability of the suture. .

  The present invention is based on such knowledge, and the sewing method of the cuff part of the garment of the present invention includes a step of providing a plurality of fabrics having extensibility in at least one direction, and a cuff from one of the plurality of fabrics. Forming a cuff portion, and forming a cuff portion from which the cuff portion is sewn from the other one of the plurality of fabrics, and sewing the cuff portion and the cuff portion at the stitch portion. In the step of forming the cuff portion and the sleeve attachment portion, the extending direction of the suture portion that stitches the cuff portion and the sleeve attachment portion coincides with one direction, and at least a part of the suture portion has a V shape. In the step of forming and cuffing the cuff portion and the cuff portion so as to have, as a yarn for sewing the cuff portion and the cuff portion, a yarn having an elongation rate of 20% or more compared to the non-elongated state is used. The length L1 when stretched in one direction of the stitched portion is the cloth. To the length L2 of the elongation at in one direction, characterized in that suturing to have a relationship of L1 ≧ L2.

  The method for sewing a sleeve of a garment according to the present invention includes a step of providing a plurality of fabrics having extensibility in at least one direction, forming a sleeve from one of the plurality of fabrics, and another one of the plurality of fabrics. A step of forming a body part from which the sleeve part is sewn and a step of stitching the sleeve part and the body part at the stitching part, and in the step of forming the sleeve part and the body part, the sleeve part and the body part Forming a sleeve part and a body part so that the extending direction of the stitched part that stitches together the part coincides with one direction, and the stitched part has an S-shape from the start point to the end point, and is sewn Then, as a thread for stitching the sleeve part and the body part, a thread having an elongation rate of 20% or more compared to that when not stretched is used, and the length L1 when stretched in one direction of the stitched part is one of the fabric. There is a relationship of L1 ≧ L2 with respect to the length L2 when stretched in the direction of Wherein the sutured so that.

  According to the present invention, even when the fabric is stretched when the garment is worn, the stretch of the fabric is not limited by the length of the stitched portion, and therefore, the stretch of the stretchable fabric can be utilized to the maximum. Accordingly, the clothes can be easily attached and detached, and the feeling during use of the clothes can be improved.

  FIG. 1 shows a sleeve end stitched portion 10 formed at the end of a sleeve 1 of an upper garment as an example of an embodiment of the present invention. The fabric has extensibility in at least one direction (the X direction in the drawing). As shown in FIG. 1, the sleeve end stitching portion 10 is formed in a V shape having three gentle curved portions. FIG. 1A shows the sleeve 1 when not stretched (relaxed), and FIG. 1B shows the sleeve 1 when the fabric is stretched, that is, when the upper garment is used, the fabric expands in the X direction. Is shown.

  The length of the fabric is the length when the start point 10a and the end point 10b of the sleeve end stitching portion 10 are connected by a straight line. In the state shown in FIG. 1A, the length L3 of the fabric when not stretched and the length L1 of the sleeve end stitching portion 10 have a relationship of L1> L3. That is, when the fabric is not stretched, the length L1 of the sleeve end stitching portion 10 is longer than the length L2 of the fabric.

  In the state shown in FIG. 1B, the length L1 of the sleeve end stitching portion 10 and the length L2 of the fabric when stretched have a relationship of L1 ≧ L2. That is, when the fabric is stretched, the length L2 of the stretched fabric and the length L1 of the sleeve end stitching portion 10 are the same, or the length L1 of the sleeve end stitching portion 10 is longer than the length L2 of the fabric. Is longer.

  In this way, by prescribing the length of the stitching portion in advance assuming the stretch of the fabric, it is possible to effectively utilize the stretch of the stretchable fabric without using a stretchable yarn as the suture. Clothing that can be provided can be provided.

  In addition, the sleeve edge part stitching | suture part 10 can also be formed using the thread | yarn which has a stretching property for a suture thread. Examples of the stretchable yarn include a yarn having an elongation rate of 20% or more. By using a stretchable yarn, the fabric can be stretched more easily. When the sleeve end stitched portion 10 is formed using a stretchable thread, the sleeve end stitched portion is in the state shown in FIG. 1 (a), that is, even when the fabric is not stretched. The relationship between the length L1 of 10 and the fabric can be L1 ≧ L2.

2 to 5 show various variations in the sleeve portion of the garment according to the embodiment of the present invention.
FIG. 2 is an example in which the sleeve end portion stitching portion 11 is formed in a wave shape. As shown in FIG. 2, the stitched portion is composed of a plurality of bent portions, and can have a gentle waveform shape (sine wave shape or the like) in which the curvature of each bent portion is large. With such a stitched portion shape, the stitched portion can be aesthetic. In addition, it is not necessary to give regular amplitude and a period to the waveform shape of a stitching | suture part.

  FIG. 3 is an example in which the sleeve end stitching portion 12 is formed in a zigzag shape. As shown in FIG. 3, the stitched portion can be formed in a sawtooth shape that includes a plurality of bent portions, and the bent portions form an acute angle. Such a stitched portion shape can also give aesthetic properties to the stitched portion. Similarly to the above, the sawtooth shape of the stitched portion does not need to have a regular amplitude or period.

  FIG. 4 is an example in which the sleeve end stitching portion 13 is V-shaped. As shown in FIG. 4, the stitched portion may be formed to have a single bent portion. Such a stitched portion shape can also give aesthetic properties to the stitched portion. Further, it is possible to increase the curvature of the bent portion so as to be a gentle bend as shown in FIG.

  FIG. 5 is an example in which a V-shaped cut is made in a part of the sleeve end stitching portion 14. As shown in FIG. 5, it is not necessary to provide a bent portion over the entire length of the stitched portion, and the bent portion may be provided only in a part. Such a stitched portion shape can also give aesthetic properties to the stitched portion. Further, the curvature of the bent portion may be increased to form a gentle bend as shown in FIG. 2, a corrugated shape as shown in FIG. 3, or a sawtooth shape as shown in FIG.

  The above variation shows an example, and in each example, the length L1 when stretched in one direction of the stitched portion is such that L1 ≧ L2 with respect to the length L2 when stretched in one direction of the fabric. It is sufficient if it satisfies.

  FIG. 6 is a diagram showing another embodiment of the present invention. FIG. 6A is a front view of the upper garment 6, and FIG. 6B is a rear view of the upper garment 6. In addition, the upper garment 6 is comprised with the fabric which has a stretching property in at least one direction.

  As shown in FIG. 6, the sleeve stitching portion 24 is formed in a gentle S-shape from the start point 24a to the end point 24b. At this time, the total stitching length along the sleeve stitching portion 24 is equal to or longer than the length when the fabric stretches most in the direction indicated by X in the section from the start point 24a to the end point 24b of the sleeve stitching portion 24. It has become. Thereby, the space with respect to the stretch direction X of the fabric can be made, and the wearing feeling of the upper garment 6 can be improved.

  FIG. 7 is a view showing a modification of the sleeve stitching portion 24 shown in FIG. As shown in FIG. 7, the sleeve stitching portion 28 sews the front portion 22 a of the sleeve portion 22 and the front portion 20 a of the body portion 20 in the lower sleeve (heel) portion of the upper garment 6 shown in FIG. 6. Curved upward in the drawing toward the lower sleeve stitching portion 26 at the lower sleeve (heel) portion, and curved toward the lower end of the drawing from the lower sleeve stitching portion 26, and a stitched portion 28a reaching the end of the lower sleeve stitching portion 26 The rear portion 22b of the sleeve portion 22 and the rear portion 20b of the body 20 are stitched together. Thereby, the space with respect to the stretch direction X of the fabric can be made, and the feeling of wearing can be further improved.

  The present invention can be applied to various garments using stretchable fabrics. Specific examples of clothing in which a stitched portion is formed on a stretchable fabric include, for example, a trainer (including sweatshirts), T-shirts, pants, sweaters, gloves, socks, wristbands, underwear (underwear), hats, A neck warmer, a sleeping bag, etc. can be mentioned.

[Example]
About the upper garment which concerns on this invention, evaluation based on the Example about the elasticity of a sleeve edge part was performed. As the example sample, as shown in FIG. 1A, the sleeve portion 1 in which the substantially V-shaped sleeve end stitching portion 10 having three gentle curved portions was formed was used. The sleeve 1 has a length L1 of the sleeve end stitching portion 10, a length L3 of the fabric when not stretched, and a length L2 of the fabric when stretched, such that L1> L3 and L1 ≧ L2. The one that met was used.

First, after measuring the length L3 of the fabric at the time of non-extension, the test method grips the start point 10a and the end point 10b of the sleeve end stitching portion 10 and pulls it to the left and right in the X direction. The thickness L2 was measured. And the expansion | extension rate of the fabric was calculated | required by the following formula.
Elongation rate (%) = (L2-L3) / L3 × 100

  As a comparative example, the elongation percentage of the fabric was determined in the same manner as described above using the sleeve portion 100 in which the sleeve end portion stitching portion 110 shown in FIG. 8B was formed.

表１から明らかなように、本発明の縫製方法によって縫製された衣類は、従来の縫製による衣類（比較例）に比べて著しく伸長率が伸びていることが確認された。

As is clear from Table 1, it was confirmed that the garment sewn by the sewing method of the present invention has a significantly higher elongation rate than the garment made by conventional sewing (comparative example).

As an example of an embodiment of the present invention, a sleeve end stitched portion 10 formed at the end of a sleeve portion 1 of an upper garment is shown. As another embodiment of the present invention, the sleeve end stitching portion 11 is formed in a wave shape. Another embodiment of the present invention is an example in which the sleeve end stitching portion 12 is formed in a zigzag shape. As other embodiment of this invention, it is the example which made the sleeve edge part stitching | suture part 13 V shape. Another embodiment of the present invention is an example in which a V-shaped cut is made in a part of the sleeve end stitching portion 14. It is a figure which shows the example which applied this invention to the sleeve sewing part 24. FIG. It is a figure which shows the modification of the sleeve stitching | suture part 24 shown in FIG. It is a figure which shows the sleeve part 100 of the conventional upper garment comprised with the fabric which has a stretching property.

Explanation of symbols

  1: Sleeve part, 10: Sleeve end stitched part, 6: Upper garment, 20: Body, 22: Sleeve part, 24: Sleeved stitched part, 26: Sleeved stitched part, 28: Sleeved stitched part

Claims (2)

A sewing method for cuffs of clothing,
Providing a plurality of fabrics that are extensible in at least one direction;
Forming a cuff from one of the plurality of fabrics and forming a cuff from which the other cuff is sewn from the other one of the plurality of fabrics;
Stitching the cuff portion and the cuff portion at a stitching portion, and
In the step of forming the cuff portion and the cuff portion,
The cuff so that the extending direction of the stitched portion that stitches the cuff portion and the cuffed portion matches the one direction, and at least a part of the stitched portion has a V-shape. Forming the part and the sleeved part,
In the suturing step,
As a thread for stitching the cuff part and the cuffed part, use a thread having an elongation rate of 20% or more compared to when not stretched,
The length L1 of the stitched portion when stretched in the one direction is:
A sewing method for a cuff portion of a garment, wherein sewing is performed so as to have a relationship of L1 ≧ L2 with respect to a length L2 when the fabric is stretched in the one direction. A sewing method for a sleeve of clothing,
Providing a plurality of fabrics that are extensible in at least one direction;
Forming a sleeve from one of the plurality of fabrics and forming a body part from which the sleeve is sewn from the other one of the plurality of fabrics;
Stitching the sleeve part and the body part at a stitched part,
In the step of forming the sleeve part and the body part,
The sleeve portion so that the extending direction of the stitched portion that stitches the sleeve portion and the body portion matches the one direction, and the stitched portion has an S-shape from the start point to the end point. And forming the body part,
In the suturing step,
As a thread for sewing the sleeve part and the body part, use a thread having an elongation rate of 20% or more compared to when not stretched,
The length L1 of the stitched portion when stretched in the one direction is:
A sewing method for a sleeve portion of a garment, wherein sewing is performed so as to have a relationship of L1 ≧ L2 with respect to a length L2 when the fabric is stretched in the one direction.

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