US2013311A - Fermanent waving apparatus - Google Patents

Description

p 1935. l D. LAKENBACH 2,013,311

PERMANENT WAVING APPARATUS Original Filed Jan. 4, 1933 2 Sheets-Sheet l 311cm- I)? jg INVENTOR ATTORN EY p 1935- I D. LAKENBACH 2,013,311

PERMANENT WAVI NG APPARATUS Original Filed Jan. 4, 1935 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR ATTORN EY Patented-Sept. s, 1935 parts stares Z,0l3,3ll

PATENT o rrics 8 Claims. ((31. 132-33) The invention relates to an apparatus employed in imparting a so-called permanent wave to human hair. More particularly the invention relates to an apparatus for imparting curls and/or waves to hair in the course of the use of which the-hair is divided into tresses of strands, each of such strands being secured adjacent to the scalp within a clamping device, said strand being then wound from its end adja- 19 cent to the scalp towardits free end, upon a rod, partly in the formtofa helical waveand partly in the form of a curl as hereinafter more particularly defined. The invention further contemplates the provision of an apparatus whereby the winding of the strandlof hair to be waved upon the curling rod, preparatory to its heat treatment, is facilitatedand made substantially automatic.

.The present application is a division of my ap- 20 plication, Serial No. 650,084, filed January 4,

; 13333. in which application I have described and claimed the method-0f permanentwaiting for which the apparatus of the instant application is V particularly suitable.

25 In order to make clear the distinction between the method-for which the apparatus of the present invention is particularly suitable, and 'the methods of the prior art, it may be here stated that no method of the prior art has combined the curling of the hair and the waving thereof, as

hereinafter more fully defined, in a succession 'of steps performed as part of a unitary operation, "upon a single tress of hair. In other words, no method as yet devised has'been capable ofim- "parting curls and waves to a single strand of hair by winding the hair on one spindle so as to impart a curl to that portion of the tress which, by reason of the characteristics of :the hair, requires the imparting of a curl thereto, and imparting .5 a wave in the same continuous operation to that portion of the tress of hair which requires a socalled wave. r

In the method of the. prior art, moreparticularly designated as the Croquignole method of 45 permanent waving, a so-called curl has been imparted to the tress of hair by winding the to concentric,overlappingcircles so that the hair,

after it has been given its heat'treatment, has imparted thereto a circular or substantially helical configuration which, for the lack of a more precise descriptive term, is defined as a curl.

Inv the second well-known method of;permanent waving, the tress of hair to bewaved is wound upon a tapered rod, the smaller diameter end of which is placed near the scalp, the tress of hair being wound from its end adjacent to the scalp toward its free end upon such taperedrod '10 in the form of a helix so that the hair after heat treatment has imparted thereto a configuration described in the art as a spiral wave.

As the necessity of imparting a curl to that portion of the hair which requires a curl, and of imparting a wave to that portion of the hair which requires awave, has been recogniz'ed, it is not uncommon to use both of the two methods hereinabove referred to in imparting permanent waves to a single head of hair. howevenrequires both the equipment for carrying out the Croquignole method and that for carrying out the spiral method, with attendant duplication of expense, labor, materials and the necessity. of subjecting the person to whose hair the permanent wave is to be imparted to the prolonged discomfort of submitting to two disasseciated operations for carrying out the two methods performed independently with the two sets of apparatus. J

The novel method of the invention of my application hereinabove referred to is designed to combine the advantages of each of the two known methods of permanent waving above referred to, and to eliminate the disadvantages of each of said methods. Thenovel method may be described as a combination of the Croquignole and spiral methods, producing a permanent wave comprising'both a curl and a wave. Thus, by my novel method, such portion of the hair which requires a wave is given a wave. and that portion of the hair which requires a curl is given a curl, the characteristics of the hair being taken into consideration in determining which of the two types is to be imparted to the hair, or to any given portion thereof. My novel method resultatherefore, in an extremely attractive'appearance of the waved hair when treated according to the combined method, and yet is capable of imparting an allwave permanent or an all-curl permanent? f the characteristics of the hair should so require. Coming now to the novelapparatus for carrying out my novel method, and .to its advantages pVeI those of the prior art, such apparatus is Such practice, 20

extremely simple in construction and is so designedas to eliminate all possibility of impropinexperienced operator. Y liZach'clampin-g"device or protector of my novel I apparatus. is in general outline similar to the clamping-device used in the Croquignole method I of permanent waving, but is shorter, being 'approximately half thesize of such conventional, Croquignole clampingdevice. The protector and 1y Winding the hair upon the rod. The mechanism for winding, the hair is practically automatic in operation and the parts of each of the com- 7 ponent devices are so designed as to yield the bestpossible results even in the'hands of an associated mechanism permit starting-the wind ing ofjthe hair on this short curling. rod either in thelform of a spiral or of a cur1.- A particular advantage of my novel apparatus is that the 1".

clamping position of the rod upon which the hair is to be Wo'un-d'is at right angles to the scal'p;i. 'e.,

it extends outwardly: therefrom -as distinguished frornatheiCroquignole arrangement in which I the much longer l rod is perforce disposed along the scalp; The particular advantage of my novel apparatus over thatgused in connectionwith the spiral methodappliance is that it is unnecessary with my novel device to use either a clipto secure the steam-tightness necessary to protect the scalp, or a ielt protector-for the same purpose,

andabakelite-or hard rubber shield.

novel oonstructionof clamping device pro- .vides' a recess therein for accommodating a bunched tressof hair, and eliminates the distribution of thehair throughoutthe suriace of the cooperating edges of the clamping members,

flthereb y. preventing any escape of steam through such cooperating edges, and makes it possible to startthe winding of the hair on therodby the spiral method and substantially adjacent to the scalp I .I

-A-further advantageofimy novel appliance is the provision of mechanism for automatically.

winding the hair ontherod, which not onlyelim inates fatigue of the operator but also assures I .fatigued h'e or'sh-e "eithera overlapsftwists. or.

n ingaccomplished automaticallyby'my novel ap-' a proper .p ositioning ioi. the hair. on the rod. It is a Well recognized 'fact that if the operator-is slants the hair While winding the s'ame' on the --rod,i any one of which conditions 'resultsflin 'an improper Wave. The tightness with which the winding of the hair on'the-rod is accomplished is also animportarit factor inpe'rmanent waving, the proper tightening of the hair ;on the rod be- .piiance, so that the operator is not required to exercise. his or her own judgment asfto 'the'tigho 'nless with which the hair is being fv'vound. While the oper ator isusually sufliciently expert to judge the quality of v the hair'and therefore to deter; ethedegree of" 'ghte'nin'g necessary before a mat n ns winding of the hair; he or'she I is liable to rnisjudge the suficiency of the tight- 'enin'g and thereby produce an improper .wave.

- quire'dl'for that particular type of hair.

bewaved, i. whether it isfcoarse, medium or fine, "before'comihencingthe winding," and then being wound about the hair. 7

" In the accompanying drawings, forming part completed;

I us} the? operator is required mfely llo d er i n elfih texture'oi the hair t0 tion is completed such spring is eifective to hold the hair in position upon the red.

A further advantage of my novel appliance is '7 that the pad of felt or flannel supplying the .moisture necessary to condition the hair properly for the permanent waving, and so to protect it against burning or scorching, is Wound upon the hair by the same mechanism which ef- 5 fects the automatic Winding of the hair on the rod, the eicess moisture from such-pad being squeezed-out by such mechanism as the pad is of this specification, 1 have shown "a particular *einbodiinent'of 'my invention by way of'illustration rather than by way of limitation. In such drawings, I 7 Fig.:lis a view in frontelevation of my novel appliance by means of which my novel method is preferably carried out; Fig-,Z-isa side yiew ofeuc'h appliance; L

is ase'ction=on-theline t=+3 ci Fig. 1, showing one of the clampingamember in its open position in dotted lines and the 'lever and I cam mechanism forbringingthe clamping'memto their closed position}- also inidotted line's;

4 isa sectionjonthe line's-+ 1 of Figy-hl Fig. -5 is a view infrear elevation, partly in section, oi the appliance;

dis a plan-mew -of the"pad constituting the moisture retaining envelope to be applied tothe device; I Fig. 7 is a. Viewin elevation-of the appliance, showing the strand of h'air tobe waved, secured within-the clamping device at the beginning of the operation ofwin -d-ing the hair on the rod;

Fig. 8 is a similar viewan-d shows the. device in the course of its use at the stage when thesecond spiral Winding-of the hair upon the rod has-bee Fig. 7 9 shows Fig; 10 shows the device with the m 10 c ple e i... 1 I I I Fig. 11 shows the manner-in whichthe pad is the winding of I the device and strand 0f, hair when the third spiral windingI of the hair onthe Q 'rodhasbeencompleted; g

wound over the hair-after the latter-has been wound upon-the rod;

.I Fig. 1-2 shows the device dn the condition in which the winding guidefis tilted so as to make possible the removalaof the 'hair 'from the rod after the heat-treatment thereof has been com-- m d; v1 a Fig. 13-shows the generalv configuration'of' the strand of hair-removed from the device after the permanent wavevhas been imparted thereto by means of rny-novel methodahdapparatUS; and

Fig; 14 *shows a rmodified formjof guide-plate provided with a combing Rmember, and also shows the electrical heating unitappliedrto. the device;

Referring more-'particularly'v theidrawings,

in which similar, reference characters-identify similar parts inthe several viewalfi designates the latter being pivotally connected to the mem one of theclampingelemerlts of myclamping de vice, and i6 the'other ,of said clamping elements,

-ber l5 at H bya link -l-8,the elements being held together in closed position by a lever or bail it pivoted to the member..l'5' 'at' 20, this bail being of a length suihcien't tostra ddie the end of member I6 whenthe clamping device isciosed-J The'end ofzeac'h clamping member isslo'tt'ed, as at 2 L to, receive the bail, and an Jeccentricall'y mounted cam 22. pivotally' connected tothe bail it at 23, said camin vmg a handle 2s 's'oQt'hat,

after the members 15 and I6 have been brought together, the handle 24 may be swung around to substantially the position shown in full lines in Fig. 3 so as to cause the clamping device to firmly grip the strandsof hair making up the tress which is secured between such clamping members.

Each of .the clamping'members l5 andi6 is preferably provided with a pad of felt 25 on the surfaces thereof facing the scalp. One of the clamping members (15 in the particular embodiment illustrated) is provided with a wedgeshapedclamping surface 26 adapted to cooperate, when the clampingmembers are brought together,-with a grooved surface 21 of the other clamping member (I6 in the embodimentillustrated). .The body of the clamping device is made of a material which is highly heat resistant,

.for instance, of hard; rubber or'a condensation product such as aphenolic resin. One of the clampingmembers is provided with .a recess 28 in the surface thereof adapted to cooperate with the meeting edge of the other clamping member, while said other clamping member is provided (with a projecting body of a resilient material, for

instance, rubber 29 of an outer configuration corresponding to thatof the recess 28.

Iri applying the portionof the tress of hair to be waved to the clamping device, the portion thereof immediately adjacent to'the. scalp is inserted into the recess-2,8 in the side of the clamp ing member Hi, the other clamping member being then brought into position'so that the tress of hair is clamped between the members and held securely in position by the body 29 of the resilient material entering the recess 28. When the link l9 has been brought to the position where its cam 22 straddles the end of, the clamping member l6 and the handle 24 is swung to the position where it eifects a tight closure of the two membersiof the clamping device, the latter will firmly grip the strand of hair by means of the wedged surface 26 of one of the members engaging the cooperating groove 21. in the other clampin member.

" Each of the clamping members I5 and I6 have a members (member I5 in the embodiment illus trated) a metallic spring 32 is provided, the free end of which is in close proximity to the free ends of plates 3| so that by depressing the free end of the spring 32 a curling rod or spindle 33 may be secured at right angles to the clamping device and held in such clamping device by the entrance of the free ends of the plates 3i into slots 34pro- .vided in the head portion 35 of the spindle,

This curling rod or winding spindle of my novel apparatus comprises a rod, the central portion 35 of which is of reduced diameter, one end of said rod being provided with the head 35 so constructed as to be rotatablein only one direction as will be described more in detail hereinafter,

' andhaving the slots 34 therein by means of which such head andtherefore the spindle may be secured upon the clamping device. The other end of-said spindle is provided with a reduced diameter head 31 having a peripheral groove 38 into h 42 (see Fig. 4) into which iitsthe head 31 of the spindle. To the block 40 is secured by screws 43 a plate 44 having a projection 45 which projection acts as a pivoting point for the heel portion 46 of a winding guide element 41 to be hereinafter more fully described, a reinforcing plate 48 being applied to the heel portion 46 against which a spring 49, housed within a recess of the block 31, is adapted to press.

The winding guide element t! comprises an arcuate strip of metal having a plurality of apertures 5B in its surface and being of the general configuration shown in Figs. 1 and 5, the end of such winding guide element being curved as at 5! and bent outwardly from the surface of the guide element. This curved and bent extremity of the winding guide element will be hereinafter referred to as the nose" and has a very important function in guiding the hair being wound upon the spindle to its proper position thereon.

The moisture-supplying and retaining envelope illustrated in Fig. 6 comprises a strip of flannel 52 having a substantially rectanguiar portion 53, and a portion 53 tapering in width, integral with said rectangular portion, and tabs 5:1, 55 extending from such tapering portion. At the end of the flannel strip opposite the tab-end is attached, for instance by. stitching 5'5, a strip 5'. of water-proof and soft pliable metal material, for instance aluminum foil, having a width somewhat greater than the greatest width of the fiannel strip 52. i

The carrying out of my novel method involves the winding of the strand of hair to be waved upon the spindle 36, which winding is illustrated in Figs. 7 to ll inclusive. For the purposes of clarity, the entire series of operations will now be describedwith particular reference to such figures; 1

Before the strand of hair 50 has been secured within the clamping device, as hereinabove described in detail, the flannel strip 52is secured about the portion of the tress adjacent to the scalp by turning the tabs 54, 55 about the strand so that the ends of such tabs will over lan each other, and the strand, with the tabs lapped thereover,-is placed within the recess 28 of the clamping member l6 and the clamping members are brought together so as to -secure between them such strand of hair. The cam is then swung around by itslever l9 and brought to its position to straddle the end of the clampingrnember l6 and the handle .24 is brought to its position alongside the upper edge of the clamping member i5 as illustrated in Fig. 3, the exposed portion of the flannel strip 52 being turned to one side of the clamping device. The spindle 35 is then grasped and its head 33 pressed against the free end of the spring'S''and the head 33 slipped into position within the clamping members by having the free ends of the plates 3! engage the slots 34 of such head. The spindle 3? will thus be mounted upon the clamping device, so as to extend at right angles thereto. device in one hand may then manipulate the tress of hair with the other hand, giving it a winding motion in a counter-clockwise direction so as to bring such tress of hair under the spindle and then around and over thesame and thus position such hair immediately next to the curved and bent nose 5! of the guiding plate 4'1 as clearly illustrated in Fig. '2. The block 68 is then grasped by meansof the finger grip ll and given.

a rotation, so as to wind the hair upon the spindle in the desired spiral form by the action of The operator, grasping the clamping,

as illustrated'in Fig 9.

the g uide element st; pressing against the hair and automatically"winding and stretching the V stage of the winding operation is illustrated in Fig-. 8*; By

hair roperly" upon the spindle.

giving the spindlexand'guiding plate an addi-- tional'roftat'ion, or as many'as may be necessary,- first, however/turning the hair about the spindle so as to overlie the guiding 'pla'tefthe hair is Wound about the spindle in-spiralforination When as many spiral windings have thus been imparted to the hair as may be dictated byithe nature and characteristics of the hair as previou'sly determined, the hair may be distributed by spreading the same substantially throughout thelength of the spindle and thespindle rotated so asto-v/ind the hair upon" the spindle in'the manner ofa Cioquignole'winding, When this operation has-been" completed, the winding of the hair is substantially in the ,conditionillus trated in Fig. 16 The flannel strip 57?. is then brought forwardly-of theclamping device'and' caught between the surfaceof the clamping do Vice and the nose of the winding guide element and the flanneletrip wound. about the spindle uponwhichthe hair has been wound so as to 'con ipletelyv surround the spindle and the hair .wound thereon, the spindle being rotated so that the'aggregate of spindle; hair and guiding plate,

and securely fastened thereon by clamping the "lower edge thereof against the outer extremity of the spindle. When this operation has been completed, the device-is ready for the applica-' i tionfthereto of any well-known heating device,

for instance, a sectional heater suc as is shown in the Mayer Reissue Patent No. 17,585, February 11, 1930,. Instead 'of' such sectional heater, 1

may, of course, use any type of heating unitincluding-the type recently developed comprising an envelope containing a mixture of chemicals which, when moisture is brought into 'contact therewith, willpreduce heatof a suflicient degree of temperature and: amount to effect the necessary heat'treatment of the hair to be waved.

When the heat treatment has been completed, the aluminum foilfi'l may be unwound andthe clamping members l5 and lfi'separated as shown in Fig. 3, the head 33' of the spindle being thus freedso that after the removal of-the clamping device the. hair may be unwound from the spindle by depressing the-heel portion is or the guide plate ii so as to bringthe guide plate into the position shown in Fig. 12in which position its pressure upon the wound hair is freed so that 'thehair may be easily unwound fromthe spindle. V

. In Fig. 13 I have illustrated the approximate condition of the hair after' heat treatment in accordance withjmy method and'by means ofv my apparatus, from which figure it will be seen that the portion of the tress near the scalp has had a spiral imparted thereto and the portion of the hair at the freeend of the tress has had acurl imparted thereto.

In Fig. 14 I have illustrated modified aim of lscription.

. and. a winder supper v I 5. A hair waving appliance according to-claim: .4, having the clamp-receiving head: grooved, said 2",013",s 1. 1 V I p guide element WhiGh Gifiers from- 'the j 1 guideplate-hereinabove described only in being provide with aseries of -serrations-forming a combing-member 6i the teethfof such combin member beingpressed outwardly from'the surface of the metal comprisingthe guide plate, leaving a slot 52 in such guideplate and eliminating the necessity "of providing the plate with apertures suchas 5d of thepreferred embodiment. In such modified form, asillustrated in Fig. 14; I have also shown an electrioalheating unit 63 mounted uporr the guide" plate "and having terminal'wires i i.

It is tobe noted that the shank 37 of the spindle 36 turns with considerablefreedom in theproper direction (coun-t'er clockwise): to: wind up the strand of hair,bu is so mounted on its head.- 35 that sufficient frictional resistance is developed at the" joint 33' to pr'eventuncurling'of the strand by its inherent resiliency. Ellis may be ,providedfor by any suitable structuref-andiortheabove purpose I haveemb'odieda o'neway friction clutch withirr the-joint Les whic h "does not require special de- -I claimq V 7 o o 3 V '1. A hair-treating appliancecomprising a clampingbas'e for'atta'chmentto a-tress of hair, a curling se'} and acdnibined winding member and guard mounted mats-pry upon "said "curling rod," appliance alseincluding=-aflexible blanket rod mounted to operate rotatably upon having a portion ada ed'toembrae'e the portion 7 of use tress embraced'ihy-the'plarhp', a flexible hygroscopic portion tobe wound onto'the rodcon c-entrical-ly with the convolutions of the tress thereon, and a non-hygroscopic portion adapted to constitute a mosture tight outer enevelope for the coiled tress. I I

25A hair-waving appliance comprising a clamping base for attachmentt'o a'tress of hair, acurling rod mounted to operate rotatably upon said base, an'd a combined winding member and guard:

meuntcdrotatably upon said curling rod-said ap plianc'e'als'o': having the winding member formed with. anope ning extending throughout its length substantially parallel with the axis of rotation thereof, said memb'er'ha'vingserra'tions along one edge thereof to constitute a combing element;

""3; A -hair-Waving appliance comprising a clamping base for attachment to a tress of hair;

ng rod moun ed to operate rotatably upon guard, mounted rotatably upon said curling rod,

' said'base, and @QOIllblIlfid winding member and said' appliarice 'also' having the winding member 7 I formeol with an opening extending throughout its length substantially parallel with' the axis or rotationthereof, thematerial'of saidinember being disposed in a flaring portion at the end thereof saidclampingbase and'terminating in adj acentt a guide n directed forwardly with respcctto j the direction o f rotation of said winding member. 4. A" hair-waving appliance comprising a curling rod' or spindle haylng at each end a head adapted to receive rer'novably a cooperatingmember, including a cl mping member "at one head,. ing' collar at the other head:

clamping membefbeing provided'with a plurality V of elementshinged together and respec'tively havihg retaining'plates to enter, said 'grooved head,

adapted to permit connection of said 'clamp'and;

rod together, but to prevent disconnection thereof v fromeacli othera- V 6'. hair wauingfappli'ance comprising asplit 1 m and hav ng a spring upon sa d clamping member clamping base or member having fiat elements hinged to open and close in the same plane, with arcuate recesses registering when closed to receive and embrace a tress of hair and other elongated cooperating'recesses arranged to serve as a socket to receive the head of a curling rod, a curling rod having a head adapted to enter said socket, means to hold said clamping elements in closed position, and meansto hold said rod-head in its socket, permitting insertion thereof while said clamping elements are closed, but only permitting removal when said clamping elements are open.

7. A hair-waving appliance comprising a flat split clamp adapted to embrace a tress of hair at a region thereof near the scalp, said clamp being formed as aheat-shield for adjacent portions of the scalp, and having a cushioned surface next to the scalp; a curling rod connected removably at one end with said split clamp and adapted to extend therefrom in a direction normal to the scalp when in use; a winder and guard member mounted on the other end of said curling rod and rotatable around said rod to wind said tress thereon; a moisture retaining envelope for said wound-up tress; and a heater element surrounding said envelope; such instrumentalities combining when assembled upon said tress of hair to constitute a unitary structure supportable by the tress alone without discomfort or fatigue to the user, and adapted to produce a permanent wave of desired fashion in a unitary operation of relatively brief duration.

8. A hair-waving appliance according to claim 4 in which the head receiving the winder supporting collar is provided with a circumferential recess, and including a set screw frictionally engaging said recess whereby the rotation of said head, and therefore of the spindle, may be controlled,

DANIEL LAKENBACH.

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