US2118920A - Method and means for curling hair - Google Patents

Description

May 31, 1938. v. J. GENTlLE 2,118,920

I METHOD AND MEANS FOR CURLING HAIR Filed July 12, 1930 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 ,4 W i i-Z 195 ?:4' 4f y 1938- v. J. GENTILE 2,118,920

METHOD AND MEANS FORCURLING HAIR Filed July 12, 1930 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 ATTORNEY I May 31, 1938. v. .1. GENTILE METHOD AND MEANS FOR CURLING HAIR Filed July 12, 1930 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 INVENT Fl msy r J l I I l I I 1 l I l I l 1L y 38- v. J. GEVNITILE" f 2,118,920

METHOD AND MEANS FOR CURLING HAIR Filed July 12, 1930 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 A'ITOR EY Patented May 31, 1938 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE METHOD AND MEANS FOR GURLING HAIR Virginio Jean Gentile, Summit, N. J.

Application July 12, 1930, Serial No. 467,530

56 Claims.

The invention relates to novel and useful method and means for curling or winding hair and, more particularly to such method and means for curling tresses or looks of hair preparatory to treating or dressing the same in the process of permanent waving.

Objects and advantages of the invention will be set forth in part hereinafter and in part will e obvious herefrom, or may be learned by practice with the invention, the same being realized and attained by means of the instrumentalities and combinations pointed out in the appended claims.

The invention consists in the novel parts, constructions, arrangements, combinations and improvements herein shown and described.

The accompanying drawings, referred to herein and constituting a part hereof, illustrate one embodiment of the invention, and together with the description, serve to explain the principles of the invention.

Of the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a vertical longitudinal section of a mechanism embodying the invention, the lower portion thereof being shown in elevation;

Fig. 2 is a transverse vertical section taken on line 22 of Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a transverse horizontal section taken on line 33 of Fig. 1;

Fig. 4 is a transverse vertical section on line i-fi of Fig. 2 showing the assembled hair-guiding channel;

Fig. 5 is an enlarged detail, in perspective, of a portion of the hair-guiding channel;

Fig. 6 is a longitudinal elevation of a permanent waving rod or mandrel;

Fig. '7 shows two detached guide rods having helical guides of different contour or pitch;

40 Fig. 8 is a detail view showing, in plan, a hairbinding strip;

Fig. 9 is a detail, in plan, of a detached hairguiding and tensioning device;

Fig. 10 shows in elevation three permanent waving rods attached to tresses of hair on a human head, indicating different stages of the winding operation;

Fig. 11 is an elevation of a motor stand, showing the winding mechanism attached for motorized driving;

Fig. 12 is an enlarged fragmentary, longitudinal section of the driving connections for the winding mechanism;

Fig. 13 is a transverse horizontal section on line l3-l3 of Fig. 12;

Fig. 14 is a similar section on line l4l4 of Fig. 12;

Fig. 15 is a longitudinal elevation of a modified winding mechanism having means for holding the free end of the tress of hair;

Fig. 16 is a transverse horizontal section on line I 6-I6 of Fig. 15; and

Fig. 1'7 is a horizontal section on line |'|-l'l of Fig. 15.

Fig. 18 is a top plan of an enlarged detail of a hair-holding clip; and

Fig. 19 is a fragmentary, enlarged elevation showing the clip attached to a tress of hair.

The invention provides a new and exceedingly efiicient and simple method and means for wrapping, winding or curling a tress of hair preparatory to the dressing and heating steps in the permanent waving process. By my invention it is possible to wind a tress of hair about a permanent waving rod, core or mandrel with absolute accuracy and precision, producing a curl which is perfectly uniform, symmetrical and of exactly the desired tightness and shape.

My invention obviates the necessity for the services of highly skilled hairdressers in winding or curling the hair and also prevents the possibility of faulty and non-uniform results due to human inaccuracy or lack of skill in the hairwinding operation. By the invention the hair is coiled or wound automatically and entirely mechanically in a predetermined and perfectly symmetrical form. The invention not only reduces the hair-winding operation to a purely mechanical step, but the curls of hair produced by the invention are actually far superior to any which can be produced by the most careful and skillful manual winding.

Coincidently, the invention very greatly reduces the time and labor required to curl a head of hair, the winding operation being purely mechanical and therefore requiring substantially no exertion, skilled manipulation nor careful regulation on the part of the operator. The time required for curling a head of hair is but a small fraction of that absorbed by the former manual methods, while the comfort of the customer and the profits of the hairdresser are proportionately increased.

My invention provides a method and means whereby the hair-winding operation can be performed with maximum accuracy and efficiency by comparatively unskilled operators. The winding operation is entirely mechanical, and the most intricate, time-consuming, onerous and expensive portion of the permanent-waving process is avoided. An entire head of hair can be curled in about ten or fifteen minutes, as compared to the hour or more previously required by manual or semi-mechanical methods. The curls produced by the invention are of perfect uniformity and of exactly the desired configuration and tightness. The hair is rapidly and substantially automatically curled around a mandrel and automatically fastened thereto during the Winding operation without the use of string or other inefficient and makeshift devices. The invention provides for winding a curl in any desired predetermined form, and for varying the form and tightness of the curl according to the nature of the hair and/or the taste and desires of the customer. The mechanism of the invention is exceedingly simple and is flexible and adaptable to all kinds of hair and for producing waves of any desired form or character.

One object of the invention is to provide a simple, rugged and efficient hair-winding mechanism which is interchangeably adapted for either manual or motorized operation. If desired, the winding mechanism may be directly driven from a rotating motor shaft, thereby increasing the speed and efficiency of the winding operation without causing the slightest danger or discomfort to the customer. The entire mechanism is quite fool-proof and can be safely operated without special skill or experience, both in its manual and motorized forms.

The present preferred embodiment of the invention broadly comprises hair-engaging and guiding means comprising a head mounted on and rotatable relatively to a mandrel to one end of which the tress of hair is attached. The rotatable head is provided with a guide of predetermined contour which mechanically coacts with guiding means on the mandrel, whereby the rotating head is guided along and around the mandrel in a fixed and predetermined symmetrical path, thereby drawing the free portion of the tress of hair in a helical coil around the mandrel. The hair-guiding head is provided with means for regulably tensioning the tress of hair and for pressing the wound portion thereof into firm, contacting engagement with the surface of the mandrel during the winding operation. The character of the curl is determined absolutely by the contour of the guide and the tension applied to the hair by the rotating head and is quite independent of the actuating movements of the operator. Both the contour of the guide and the tension on the hair may be varied as desired according to the nature of the hair and to control the result of the curling operation.

The invention provides for securely fastening the tress to the mandrel both near the scalp and at the free end of the curl. The upper or free end of the tress is firmly and automatically bound to the mandrel during the winding operation by intertwining a short strip of wire or other pliable stiffening material Withthe tress as said free end is wrapped about the mandrel.

The invention'provides instrumentalities for keeping the tress of hair free from snarling and becoming caught in or twisted by the moving parts of the mechanism. For this purpose the winding head may be adapted to automatically comb the tress as it is being wound, while the frame of the winding mechanism may be provided with a sheath or guard for loosely holding the free portion of the tress away from the rotating mecha nisms to prevent entanglement therewith.

The foregoing general description and the following detailed description as well are exemplary and explanatory of the invention, but not restrictive thereof.

Referring now in detail to the present preferred embodiment of the invention, illustrated by way of example in the accompanying drawings, a separate rigid rod, mandrel or core l (Figs. 1, 6 and 10) is provided for the winding of each tress in the head of hair to be permanently waved. As embodied, the major portion of the rod is composed of a hollow cylindrical tube of substantially uniform diameter, although so far as concerns many features of the invention this rod could be solid. The rod l is preferably of aluminum or other light, strong metal, although other light and rigid substances such as bakelite or hard rubber may also be used. The lower end of the rod is preferably provided with a downwardly decreasing taper, as at 2, and is thus adapted to facilitate starting of the curl. For convenience of manufacture and assembly the tapered portion 2 is a separate piece, the reduced end portion 3 thereof being fitted tightly into the lower end of the tube and fixed thereto by a pin or other rigid connecting means.

Means are provided for securely fastening a tress of hair to the lower end of the rod or mandrel l, preparatory to winding the free portion of the tress around the mandrel. As embodied, a U-shaped hook 4 having an elongated, screwthreaded shank 5, is secured to the lower end of the mandrel, said shank 5 engaging with conformably screw-threaded recess 5 tapped into the lower end 2 of the rod. A guard member is loosely swivelled about the shank 5, and comprises a horizontally-extending member I provided near its outer end with an eye 8 in line with the outer vertical prong of the hook 4. The swivelled guard member may be provided with a semi-cylindrical sheath 9 which loosely overlies and extends along the contiguous portion of shank 5 of the hook, thereby preventing hairs from sliding down along the mandrel and working between the member I and the shank 5.

In securing a tress of hair to the lower end of one of the rods l by the mechanism hereinbefore described, the tress is laid across the open bottom of the hook 4 at a point adjacent the scalp (Fig. 10). The rod I is then rotated relatively to the hook, thereby progressing the rod along the hook and drawing the hook against the guard I. As shown in Fig. 10, the lock of hair presses against the guard l as the screwing motion brings the base of the hook and the end of the rod I toward each other. In this Way the lock of hair is tightly clamped between the horizontal guard member 1 and the U-shaped hook 4, the eye 8 fitting over the outer end of the hook and thus preventing egress of any of the hairs.

While I have described the present preferred form of means for attaching a tress of hair to a mandrel, it will be understood that the invention is not limited to said means. For many purposes other known devices for fixing or clamping a rod or mandrel to a tress of hair preparatory to winding the same may be used in lieu of the devices shown and described. However, the pre ferred form herein described is particularly well adapted for the subsequent heating operations because the usual guard washers B can be conveniently attached to the tress below the clamping hook 4. However, the preferred form herein described is particularly well adapted for use with all kinds of waving processes. Both dry and wet or steam waves can be given on the mandrel of my invention, because the relatively small space occupied by the clamping hook 4 permits the guard washers B to be attached to the tress above the roots for the wet waving operations.

In accordance with the invention, means are provided for engaging and frictionally gripping the free portion of the tress of hair and for carrying the same around and about the mandrel. As embodied, a cylindrical hair-receiving and guiding head ID, of considerably greater diameter than the mandrel, is formed with a reduced sleeve portion II which is internally bored to fit loosely around the cylindrical rod I and rotate freely thereon. The head is adapted to receive be opened or swung apart so that the hair may be inserted therein. As shown in Fig. 2, a semicylindrical section of the head I forms a jaw I2 hinged to turn about an axis I3 in the cylindrical wall of the head, whereby the head may be opened up and the tress of hair laid therein preliminary to the winding operation.

The winding head Iii is provided with suitable guiding means for receiving and frictionally gripping the tress of hair while feeding the same in the proper direction and amount to the winding devices. As embodied, a hair receiving and guiding trough or channel I4 is fixed to the rigid or non-pivoted portion of the head Ill and extends outwardly therefrom. As shown in Fig. 2, the

bottom of the channel i preferably lies in a plane substantially tangential to the surface of the core or mandrel I, which is concentric with the rotatable winding head. The hair-guiding channel I4 is provided with upstanding sides I5 and I6 for confining the tress of hair and feeding same to the winding head in uniform width.

The hinged jaw I2 of the winding head is provided with a cooperating cover for the hair-guiding channel, comprising the overlapping channel 20, fixed to and extending outwardly from the jaw I2. As shown in Fig. 4 the cover member is adapted to completely enclose the tress, being provided with depending side flanges 2I and 22 for receiving the sides I5 and I6 of trough I4. The invention provides means for locking the jaws I2 and I 9 of the winding head in closed position, whereby the tress of hair will be embraced by the guiding channel and constrained to follow the direction thereof as the hair is fed into the winding head. As embodied, the upper, flat cover 28 of the channel is provided with an angular opening 24 adjacent the flange 22, near the outer end of the channel. An upstanding lug 25 is formed near the outer end of wall l6 of the trough I4, and said lug is adapted to pass through and project above the opening 24 when the jaws of the head II] are in closed position. A resilient locking finger 21 is mounted on the upper surface of channel member 20 and is adapted to snap into locking position beneath the overhanging lip 28 on the lug 25, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2. One end 30 of the spring finger 2! is loosely coiled about a screw 29 and is held against the surface 28 by the enlarged head of the screw. An upset lug 3! in the cover member 20 serves as a fulcrum for bending the spring finger 21 backwardly to releasing position, while the upset lug 32 adjacent the locking member 25 is positioned to hold the spring finger 21 under slight compression, whereby it will normally be urged to locking position. It will be understood that the invention is not limited to the locking devices disclosed, but that any other suitable means may be provided for closing and securing the winding head.

In the preferred embodiment of the invention, the hair-guiding channel I4 is adapted to feed the tress into the winding head substantially at the angle which the hair would normally assume while being wound on the mandrel. As will be clear from Fig. 1, the coacting channel members I4 and 28, are set at an angle to the longitudinal axis of the winding head Iii. Thus the hair tends to feed freely and uniformly into the winding head and packing, bunching or snarling thereof avoided The angle shown in the drawings is substantially that which has proved most efficient in practice, but it will be understood that the invention is not restricted thereto.

The invention preferably provides additional means for preventing packing or snarling of the hair as it is being wound. As, embodied, the

winding mechanism is provided with a plurality of spaced-apart teeth 35, preferably mounted near the inner end of the channel I4. The teeth 35 act as a comb in guiding the tress of hair in a plurality of separate strands into the winding head, thereby preventing cross-wise bunching of the tress and non-uniform distribution thereof along the mandrel. The combing teeth 35 also serve to straighten out and eliminate any snarls or tangles in the tress of hair as it is drawn into the head.

The hair-guiding channel is preferably provided with additional means at the junction thereof with the Winding head for preventing lateral escape or entanglement of the tress. For

this purpose, the lower side wall I5 of the channel I4 may be provided with a curved surface 31 against which the hairs on the lower side of the winding tress bear as they are fed to the mandrel. As shown, an extension of the wall I5 is curved away from the channel to form the round-" ed surface 31. Preferably the outer end thereof is provided with an upstanding guard 38 which lies outside the cover member 20 and contiguous to the bottom of the Winding head Ill, so as to prevent hairs from escaping overwall I5 at the junc-- tion of the guiding channel and the head Ill. The guard lip 38 and curved surface 31 also serve to smoothly guide the hair around the end of the winding head and onto the mandrel.

My invention provides novel means for me--.

chanically tensioning the tress of hair as it is being wrapped about the core or mandrel and co-acting means for pressing or compacting the hair against the mandrel as it is wound thereon,

whereby a curl of the requisite tightness, uninormally engaging the cylindrical surface of the mandrel or core 2. The finger '40 is fixed to the cover member 20 of the guiding channel near the outer end thereof and also preferably intermediate the-ends of the channel by spaced apart sets of rivets 4i and-42, whereby the inner portion' of said tongue is free to move a limited amount toward and away from the mandrel 2.

Means are provided for varying and controlling the frictional pressure of the pressing finger 40 against the surface of the mandrel and :the tressof hair being wound thereon. As shown, the free end of finger 45 is normally urged toward the surface of the mandrel by a coiled spring 44, one end of which bears against the finger. The spring 44 is in compression between the outer surface of finger 46 and the jaw l2 of the Winding head, the outer end of the spring being set in a socket 45 formed in the controlling screw 45. The screw 46 is mounted for screw-threaded rotation in a conforming radial aperture 67 formed. in the jaw I2. By turning the screw 45, the amount of frictional pressure exerted by the finger 40 against the hair on the mandrel can be very nicely controlled, and for this purpose the screw 46 is provided with an enlarged knurled head 48. The variations in tangential pressure made possible by the mechanism described enable the operator to control the tightness of the curl and also to adapt the winding mechanism to hair of different thicknesses and other characteristics.

The finger 46 serves to guide the hair onto the mandrel and firmly pack it in coils of the desired symmetry and compactness. For this purpose, the inner end 55 of the finger is curved toward the mandrel so as to extend the pressure and guiding action of the finger over a considerable area of the mandrel. As shown in Figs. 1 and 9, the inner end of the finger, including the curved portion 55, is set at an angle to the long fiat portion 40, thereby forming a partially cylindrical surface extending substantially parallel to the axis of the mandrel. Furthermore, as will be clear from Figs. 2 and 5, the hair-guiding channel l4 decreases in depth inwardly whereby the hair is pressed fiat and compacted in a relatively thin and uniform ribbon as it is drawn toward the mandrel.

The hair-guiding finger 46 is adapted to prevent entanglement or snarling of stray hairs with the winding head, especially at critical points in the winding operation. For this purpose, the inner end of the finger extends downwardly along the mandrel below the bottom of the head ID to form a guarding tongue 5!, provided'with an outwardly curved flange 52 for preventing stray hairs from working over the guiding and pressing finger 4B and into the winding head. The tongue 5i also acts to extend the pressing and tensioning action of the finger All along the surface of the curl beyond the bottom of the winding head Ill.

If desired, additional means may be provided for frictionally engaging, guiding and tensioning the tress of hair as it is drawn into the winding head. As embodied, a curved, pressing foot 55, formed of thin resilient metal or the like, is mounted in the guiding channel near the outer end thereof, being preferably riveted to the cover '20 of the channel by the rivets 62. As shown, the tensioning foot 55 imparts an initial friction to the hair as it is drawn into the channel, spreading it flat across the channel and pulling it in a substantially straight, line tight against the mandrel surface. If desired the tension exerted by the foot 55 may be variable, as by means similar to that shown in connection with the finger fill. Ordinarily, however, the shape and inherent resiliency of the member 55 itself will be sufi'icient for normal variations in thickness and tractability of different heads of hair.

Referring now to the means for wrapping a tress of hair around the mandrel in a predetermined and symmetrical curl, the invention provides devices for progressing the hair-engaging and guiding head Ill along and around the mandrel in a predetermined and preferably helical path. As embodied, a helical guide, comprising a cylindrical rod 60 having a helical groove 6| of predetermined pitch and symmetry cut in its surface, is attached to the winding head I9 by a suitable connecting and supporting frame so as to turn with the head relatively to the mandrel I. The upper, reduced endv 62 of rod 60 is screwthreaded and set in a conformably threaded bore 63 in the assembling head 54. The head 64 is provided with an enlarged circular flange 65, adapted to receive and support two diametrically spaced-apart frame rods 66 and 61. The lower ends of these rods are fixed in a collar 68 which is interiorly threaded at 69 to engage with the threaded neck 16 of the reduced upper end H of the winding head l0. Preferably a supporting shoulder H in the member I I provides a seat for supporting the collar 68 and the frame rods 66 and 61.

As will be clear from the foregoing description, taken in connection with the drawings, the heiicaliy grooved guide rod 60 is mounted to turn with the winding head I0 relatively to the stationary mandrel I. The helical guide 60 is mounted concentrically with the cylindrical winding head Ill and the tubular mandrel I and said guide rod 56 is of a diameter adapted to fit loosely within the tubular mandrel I so as to freely rotate therewithin and progress axially along the interior thereof. It will thus be clear that rotation of the winding head It about the mandrel, as by manually turning the frame ESE-58, will cause the helically grooved rod 65 to rotate inside the tubular mandrel l.

Suitable devices are provided for manually rotating the Winding head relatively to the mandrel together with the attached helical guide 69 and its connecting and supporting frame. For this purpose a circular knob or handle 72 is adapted to rest upon the upper fiat surface of the circular flange 65 of the assembling head 66. The interior of knob 72 is provided with a square socket l3, adapted to fit over the squared end M of the assembling head 64, whereby the knob and head will turn together. The upper portion of the knob 72 is bored to loosely receive the reduced, screw-threaded shank 62 of the helical guiderod 60, which projects through the upper end of the square head M. The upper end of the knob l2 is recessed to receive a locking nut 15 which firmly secures the projecting end of the helical guide-rod to the knob' and tightly locks the entire assembly.

In accordance with the invention, devices are provided for efiecting a mechanical and positive coaction between the winding head and the stationary mandrel, whereby the head will be progressed along and about the mandrel in a predetermined symmetrical path. In the present preferred embodiment, the mandrel is provided with a feeler or follower 30 which engages the helical groove 5! in the guide-rod 5E) and thus causes the guide-rod and the attached frame and winding head to travel along and about the stationary mandrel in paths conforming to the helical groove. As shown, the follower comprises a short pin disposed radially with respect to the mandrel tube I and having a rounded inner end which projects into and engages the helical groove 6i.

Preferably the pin 36 is detachable from the mandrel proper, although mechanically it forms an integral co-acting part thereof. For this purpose, the pin 80 is fixed in a sleeve 8| which has ing same from turning.

the same interior bore as the mandrel tube I, but is fixed to the upper end of the tube by a screwthreaded connection. The lower end of the sleeve 3! is tapped at 32 to receive the upper end of the mandrel tube, the latter being conformably threaded at its upper end 83 for a short distance.

The hereinbefore described mechanism is operated substantially as follows:

A mandrel or rod 5 (Fig. 6) is secured to a selected tress of hair near the scalp by placing the tress in the U-shaped hook i and rotating the mandrel with respect to the hook until the tress is tightly gripped between the hook and the guard member, the tress-then being in the condition shown in the right hand third of Fig. 10. The winding head ill, together with the helical guide 5E and its frame, are then fitted over and into the mandrel. The head 50 slides easily over the mandrel, while the guide rod 68 is loosely inserted. into the open end of the tube I. At this time the sleeve 8! may be loosely carried on the helical guide rod H1, preferably riding at the upper part of the guide rod adjacent the head 5 Thus substantially the full length of the guide rod 69 may project into the tube I, so that the winding head !8 is about the mandrel just above the end of the hair gripping hook 4.

The operator now firmly attaches the sleeve 8| to the upper end of the mandrel by screwing the sleeve onto the threads 83. For this operation the upper end of the guide-rod 59 is preferably provided with a completely circular groove 85, whereby the sleeve 8! may be rotated freely about the guide rod without engaging the helical groove 6! and displacing the guide-rod frame and winding head along the mandrel. The sleeve 8! may thus be tightly screwed onto the upper end of the mandrel without disturbing the position of the winding head with respect thereto.

The next step is to secure the free portion of the tress to the winding head. For this operation the jaw 52 of the winding head is swung open and the free portion of the tress laid into the guiding channel Hi, preferably with a preliminary half turn around the mandrel above the gripping hock 4. The jaw i2 is then closed, care being taken that stray hairs lie outside the channel it or in entanglement with any of the mechanism. The frictional grip of the finger 10 may then be preliminarily regulated to conform to the thickness and tractability of the particular hair being treated. The hair is now ready to be wound about the mandrel.

For manually winding the tress, the operator rotates the winding head and frame about the mandrel, preferably by turning the knob 12. With the other hand the mandrel may be held stationary, preferably at its lower end adjacent the hair-gripping hook 4. Preferably, however, the operator will engage the bottom of the mandrel with a pair of pliers A or other means for firrruy and easily gripping the mandrel and hold- As the winding head, frame and helical guide 5d rotate with respect to the stationary mandrel, the follower or pin 8H engages the helical groove 6! and forces the guide rod 5 together with the assembled frame and winding head iii to travel along and about the mandrel in a helical path conforming exactly to the groove 55.

As the winding head is rotated in the direction of the arrow in Fig. 1, the tress of hair is wrapped or coiled around the mandrel, the free portion of the tress sliding through the guiding and combing channel M at exactly the desired tension. The hair is thus symmetrically and accurately wound around the mandrel in a positive- 1y controlled movement and the tightness or compaction of the curl regulably controlled. The operators movements have no influence upon the character of the curl, but affect only the rapidity with which the winding operation takes place.

The invention is provided with devices for rendering it harmless to the customer and entirely fool-proof even in the hands of an unskilled operator. By virtue of one feature of the invention, it is impossible for an inattentive operator to continue rotating the winding head indefinitely after the'tress has been completely wound. If the operator continued'to rotate the winding frame and head, the upper end 84v of the neck 10 on the winding head I0 would come into contact with the lower surface of the sleeve 8i. If thesleeve 81 were fast to the mandrel, continued rotation of the winding frame would look the sleeve 8| to the end 84 of neck 10, thereby causing the mandrel to turn and pull away from. the customers scalp. However, by virtue of the threaded connection between the sleeve BI and the end 83 of the mandrel, frictional contact between the rotating surface 84 and the stationary sleeve 81 will cause the latter to turn with the surface 84.and unscrew from the end 83. Consequently a continued rotation of the winding mechanism will merely result in unscrewing the threaded sleeve 8| and backing, it off the end of the mandrel along the helical guide 60.

If desired, the surface 84 of the neck 10 may be roughened or provided with means for positively engaging the. lower surface of sleeve 8|, although it will be found that the ordinary friction between these surfaces will be sufficient to turn the sleeve on the mandrel and unscrew it. Asa result of this unscrewing action, it is impossible for the mechanism to jam, lock or twist in the event of undueor prolonged winding, and consequently any danger of injury or discomfort to the customer or mechanism is obviated.

The. Winding device is successively connected to the various ,mandrels l which are attached to the various tresses in the head of hair to curl the tress about the mandrel, and is detached from the mandrel when the curl is completed. By screwing the nut 8| onto the open end of the mandrel they are brought into operative relation to curl the tress, and by unscrewing the nut 8|, the winding device is disconnected, preparatory to connecting it to another mandrel to wind a tress thereon.

The turning of the winding head about the mandrel may have some tendency to rotate the mandrel and possibly affect the tightness of the screw-threaded gripping hook 4 at the bottom of the rod. In order to overcome any loosening effect on the hair-gripping hook, the screw threads of the shank 5 are turned in the opposite direction from the helical groove 6|. For example, if the winding head is set to turn with a right-hand screwing motion, as shown in Fig. 1, the threads on the shank 5 will be left-handed, or vice-versa, thereby tending to tighten the hair gripping hook during the Winding operation rather than loosening the same.

The invention provides means for readily and accurately adapting the Winding mechanism to hair of difierent characteristics. For example,

very thick hair cannot be wound so closely as fine hair and it is therefore desirable to control the number of turns per inch of length, (i. e. the pitch of the coil) according to the nature of the hair. For this purpose, the helical guide rod 60 is made interchangeable with similar rods having helical guides of different pitch,

which may be substituted for the rod shown in Fig. 1. I have found that three standard rods having pitches of four, six and eight turns per inch respectively will suffice for most normal hair-winding purposes. In Fig. 7, a rod 60 having a pitch of four turns per inch is shown with an interchangeable rod 60a having a helical groove of six turns per inch.

Similarly, the configurations of the guide groove 6| may not necessarily be of the same pitch throughout the length of the rod in case it is desirable to wind one part of the tress differently from the rest. For example, most tresses and especially those in bobbed hair, thin out toward their upper ends. For proper waving, the tresses should be wound as uniformly as possible, so that each length of the mandrel will be covered by a substantially equal amount of hair. To obtain the desired uniformity of winding, the thin, upper portion of the tress should be wound more closely than the lower and thicker portion thereof. The invention provides guide rods 60b of differential pitch or contour for this purpose, and it will be understood that the changes in pitch along the guide rods may be as gradual or abrupt as is found necessary in practice.

In interchanging the helically grooved rod .69 with one of a different pitch, the nut 62 is unscrewed from the end of the rod which is then extracted from the head 64 by unscrewing the rod from the threaded socket 63. For bobbed hair, shorter mandrels and guide rods may be provided, although this is not necessary.

The invention is further adapted to produce curls of the necessary and desirable uniformity and closeness. When the hair to be wound is relatively thin, but a change to a guide rod of closer pitch is inconvenient or the closer pitch is not exactly of the desired configuration, a closer curl may be produced by using the combing teeth 35 to segregate the ,hair inua selected portion of the channel. These teeth permit the tress of hair to be subdivided and maintained in a desired position of the guiding channel. For example, with a relatively thin or meagre tress, the hair may be grouped between a selected number of the teeth and the spaces between the outer teeth and the sides l5 and [6 of the channel left bare. Thus the thinner tress may be maintained of proper thickness by effectively narrowing the width thereof during winding. Again, if a thicker curl is desired, the hair can be more closely bunched among the lower teeth of the channel, so that a greater overlapping of the hair on the mandrel is effected.

In accordance with one feature of my invention I provide a method and means for automatically securing the free end of the wound tress of hair to the mandrel, so as to leave the coiled tress securely bound to the mandrel when the winding operation has been completed. For this purpose, I provide a relatively short piece of binding material, preferably containing one or more relatively stiff and pliant wires of fibres which can be twisted around the coiled tress and made to retain the same in wound position. A preferred form of binding material is shown in Fig.

8, comprising a strip of thin gauze or similar fabric 81' having two thin, pliant wires 98 and 89 woven or bound along the edges thereof.

The invention provides means for intertwining the binding strip 81 with the upper portion of the tress as it is Wound about the mandrel, whereby the binding strip will be twisted tightly about the mandrel and grip and hold the end of the tress thereto. As embodied, the winding head I9 is provided with an auxiliary slot 98 adjacent the hair guiding channel I4, for permitting the binding strip 31' to be inserted into the winding head at the desired time and position. As shown, the winding head may be provided with a short channel 9! for guiding the strip into the slot 90 and onto the hair-covered mandrel. It will be clear that the binding strip 8'! will be drawn onto the mandrel and tightly intertwined with the remaining portion of the tress. As shown in the left-hand portion of Fig. 10, the binding strip is preferably inserted sufficiently late in the winding operation so that the end of the strip will overlap the end of the tress and completely cover it up, whereby loosening or escape of any stray hairs at the end is completely prevented.

For making certain that the tress will adhere closely to the mandrel, the invention provides additional means for securing the wound tress to the mandrel. As embodied, the fabric strip 81 is preferably impregnated with a dry mucilaginous filler, such as a paste soluble in or adapted to swell in water. In practice the strip will be moistened before it is inserted into the winding head, whereby the paste will bind the wound tress firmly to the mandrel during the subsequent operations. Of course, the paste or filler for the strip will be composed of suitable ingredients which are harmless to the hair and can be easily removed so that the hair will not be injured or its appearance impaired.

By another feature of my invention, I optionally provide means for loosely holding and guiding the free end of the tress during the winding operation so that entanglement thereof with the rotating mechanism is prevented. As shown in the modified form of the invention illustrated in Figs. 15, 16, and 17, the winding frame is provided with a sheath or pouch 95 for loosely containing the free and unwound portion of the tress. The sheath 95 comprises a pouch of fabric, thin wire-mesh, or the like disposed along and projecting laterally from one of the vertical rods of the winding frame.

For permitting the tress to be easily and quickly inserted in the sheath, the latter is preferably divided longitudinally so that it may be spread apart and the tress laid therein. As embodied, the winding frame is provided with two spacedapart rods 96 and 97 on the side of the frame adjacent the hair guiding channel I4. Rod 97 is fixed to the winding frame in the same manner as rods 66 and 6! in the forms shown in Fig. l, but rod 96 is rotatable with respect to the winding frame, being suitably journaled in the frame members 65 and 68. The upper end of sheath 95 is suspended from clamping arms 98 which are fixed by suitable means to the respective rods 96 and 91, while the lower end of sheath 95 is similarly engaged and supported by clamping arms 99 and I90, tied to rods 96 and 9'! respectively.

Means are provided for opening the sheath 95 to permit insertion of the tress. As embodied, the lower end of rod 96 is provided with a coiled spring llll having its upper end fast to the rod, while its lower end projects along and lies against the tube H3.

the neck 10 of the winding head. The spring E98 is normally under compression so as to urge the rod 95 and its attached clamping arms 98 and 99 toward the fixed rod 9'! and clamping arms 93 and Hill. A handle E52 is fixed to the upper end of rod 96, whereby the rod and its attached clamping arm may be spread open and away from the fixed portion of the sheath, against the compression of spring H31, whereby the tress may be inserted into the sheath.

It will be clear that the described mechanism will operate to hold the tress in a relatively loose frictional grip so that it may slide evenly along the sheath as it is drawn into the winding head. For guiding the tress into the winding head, the guiding channel I4 may be provided with a curved guard N35 for easing the hair around the turn into the guiding channel.

Referring now to those features of the invention whereby the hair-winding mechanism may be driven from a motor or other source of power, a preferred mechanism is shown in Figs. 11 to 14 for connecting and driving the hair-winding devices from a portable electric motor. It will be understood that the hair-winding devices hereinbefore described may be operated easily and very efiiciently by hand and when so operated will produce curls of unusual symmetry and tightness with very little labor and skill and in a very small fraction of the time heretofore required for manual winding. Nevertheless in many cases it will be desirable to perform the winding operation by mechanical power, thereby substantially entirely removing hair-winding from the sphere of man-' ual performance.

As embodied, the hair-winding mechanism hereinbefore described is adapted to be driven from a power source without any substantial change in the mechanism. Preferably the square end T-d of the assembling head 64 of the winding frame (Fig. l) is adapted to be connected to a motor drive. By simply unscrewing the nut 15, the knob or handle 72 may be removed and, when the nut i5 is replaced, the square head M is ready "to be inserted/into a suitable driving chuck.

Thus the winding mechanism of my invention may be manufactured and sold for either manual or motorized operation or both, according to the desires and requirements of the user. The man- -'ual1 -operated mechanism may be purchased first and if the user later expands his business or requires more rapid performance he may acquire the motor and driving connections and apply them to the standard winding mechanism.

For mechanically driving the hair-winding mechanism, a small electric motor H is preferably mounted on a portable stand comprising a base iii having casters or wheels H2 and an upright tubular shaft H3. The motor is preferably supported on a horizontally extending bracket I H: which is vertically and angularly positionable with respect to the movable base Ill. As embodied the bracket I I is rotably mounted about a vertical shaft H5 which fits loosely into Bracket H4 is attached to a rotatable sleeve HE which is loosely supported near the upper end of shaft 5 55 by any suitable means such as a fixed collar Ill. The means provided for vertically positioning the motor comprise a screw iii; near the top of the tubular shaft said screw being adapted to fix shaft H5 in any desired vertical position within the tube H3. For connecting the driving shaft of the motor to the winding mechanism, a flexible shaft of any known or suitable form may be connected to the motor shaft by suitable reduction gearing. As embodied, a flexible driving shaft I20 is housed in a flexible metal guard-tube i2! and the tube and shaft are adapted to hang from the motor so that the driving force may be easily directed to any tress of hair on the head of a customer seated near the motor stand. The driving shaft 623 adapted to be driven from the motor shaft at a relatively slow uniform speed, whereby the winding mechanism will be rotated at a speed approximating that of the manual operation. Preferably the shaft 528 is connected to the motor shaft by a worm-gear drive, diagrammatically indicated at 123.

Means provided for transmitting the rotary driving force of the flexible shaft I20 to the standard hair-winding mechanisms hereinbefore described. For this purpose I preferably provide a hand-controlledclutch mechanism whereby whereby the application and regulation of the driving force is completely under the control of the operator, so that the winding mechanism may be rotated or stopped instantaneously and be driven as siowly or rapidly as desired up to the maximum speed of the driving shaft I29. As shown in Fig. 1.1, a hand grip I25 is provided at the end of the flexible shaft I20 for housing the clutch mechanism and permitting the operator to controlthe operation thereof. A spring-seated lever 92b for controlling the operation of the clutch is set in the hand grip I25 and, as shown, is adapted to normally hold the clutch in disengaged position, whereby the winding mechanism will be driven onlyv when the handle 225 is gripped by the operator and the lever pressed thereagainst.

While I have shown a clutch between the motor shaft and w' ding mechanism as the preferred driving connection, it will be understood that the invention is not limited thereto. In many cases the objects of the invention could be realized by directly connecting the winding mechanism to fiexible shaft and controlling the drive by a switch to the motor. The invention comprises any suitable or known means for driving the winding mechanism from a source of power such as a motor or other mechanical driving means.

Refer ng now to the structural details of the mecha. sin for driving the hair winding device from the flexible shaft i252, Fig. 12 shows the clutch structure of the present preferred A driving head [30,having a friction surface it! of leather, fabric or other suitable clutching material, is fixed to the end of flexible shaft ltd to rotate therewith, said head having a stem i232. of reduced diameter, which is provided with a cylindrical socket I33 for receiving the lower end of shaft I20. The head l'3ii is fixed to shaft l2il to rotate therewith, as by a set screw I35 which passes through the wall of socket and is seated in a suitable indentation in the surface of shaft I29.

The driving head i3!) and the lower end of shaft iii? are suitably assembl d and housed in he hand grip 125. As embodied the hand grip is formed of two semi-cylindrical pieces I35 and E36: of hard rubber, wood or other suitable material which are internally bored to receive the tube i2i in the upper end of the hand grip, while in the lower portion thereof a larger cylindrical chamber i3? is provided for housing the clutch mechanism. The two pieces W5 and 536 of the hand grip are bound together near their upper end by a pair of counter-sunk bolts i353 on either side of the tube l2l, while the lower reduced end halves I39 of the hand grip are laterally flanged to receive the binding screws I49. The stem I32 of the driving head I39 is supported in the chamber #31 by a sleeved bearing member I45 which is provided with an annular seat I46 for receiving the enlarged portion I51 of the stem I32, so as to provide thrust bearings in both directions therefor. The upper portion of sleeve I45 is of smaller diameter than the chamber I31 and is surrounded by an auxiliary packing collar I48, the two being bound together and to the tube I2I by a. set screw I49.

The standard winding mechanism of my invention is adapted to be attached to and driven by the clutching mechanism and driving connections hereinbefore described. As embodied, the square head 14 of the winding frame is provided with a notch or recess I55 adapted to receive and be held by a spring pressed detent I59 in the chuck 551. The chuck I51 is provided with a square recess I58 adapted to fit over and receive the square head 19 whereby the detent I56 will slip into and hold the winding frame in driving position with respect to the chuck.

The chuck I51 is adapted to be driven from the flexible motor shaft I29, being fixed to the end of driven shaft I59 to rotate therewith. The shaft I 59 is driven from the clutch head I39, having a driven clutch face I69 on the driven head l5 I, which is fixed to the upper end of shaft I59 and normally spaced apart from the clutching head I39. The driven head I6I is mounted for limited axial movement along shaft I59 to engage with the driving face I3I of clutch head I39. For this purpose, the head I6I is provided with a radial pin I52 which projects into and is adapted to move along the longitudinal keyway H53 in the upper end of shaft I59. The lower end of head IEI rests against an annular flange 54 on the shaft I59, the bottom of said flange being supported by the bottom of the cylindrical chamber I31 of the hand grip housing. A suitable bearing-bushing I65 may be provided for spacing and supporting the shaft I59 from the lower, constructed end I39 of the hand grip.

As embodied, the driving and driven faces of the clutch are adapted to be brought into engagement by closing movement of the grip lever I26. Said lever is provided with a horizontally-disposed arm i19 which projects into the chamber I31 of the hand grip through a suitable slot Ill. The inner portion of arm I19 is bifurcated to form a yoke having arms I12 and I13. The inner ends of said arms .are pivoted to turn about a horizontal axis I14 in the side I35 of the hand grip opposite the opening I1I. A spring I15 between the lever I26 and the side I35 of the hand grip serves to normally hold the yoke in its lower or horizontal position. The head IGI is provided with an annular recess I89 adapted to receive the rollers I8! which are hung on pins I32 and project radially inwardly from the arms of the yoke.

It will be clear that by gripping the hand grip and pressing the lever I26 inwardly, the hori zontal arms 512 and I13 of the yoke will be tilted upwardly about the axis I15, thereby raising the head I6I and sliding same along the shaft I59 to. engage the clutching faces. The head IBI will thus be driven from the rotating head I39 and this drive will be transmitted through the shaft I59 and chuck I51 to the winding frame. The rotating force may be applied as slowly and carefully as desired by slipping the clutch and the drive may be stopped at any time by releasing the spring lever I26. The spring-mounted lever i26 also provides a safety feature in the mechanical drive of the winding means, because the clutch automatically disengages as soon as pressure on the lever I25 is released.

The invention provides means for preventing accidentally pulling or twisting hairs, near their roots during the winding operation and subsequently especially while the washers B are being attached to a tress below the end of a mandrel. In giving a wet or steam wave, it is necessary to apply the guard washers B to the tress below the mandrel to prevent hot liquid from. seeping onto the scalp and burning the customer. When the guard washers B are applied to the hair, they tighten the hair near the roots and take up any slack therein below the mandrel. If the air is already taut below the mandrel end, application of the washers B with the attendant gripping and torsion of the hair will cause pain and discomfort.

As shown in Figs. 18 and 19, the invention provides a hair-binding clip or collar which may be attached to the tress just above the scalp prior to the attachment of the clamping hook 4 of the mandrel. As embodied, the clip comprises a cylindrical collar composed of two semi-cylindrical, hinged members or jaws 299 and 29! pivoted to turn about a vertical pin 292. Means for fastening the jaws together so as to grip the tress with the desired firmness comprise the angular resilient arms 293 and 294 extending from the jaws 299 and 29I respectively. Arm. 294 comprises a substantially radial extension of jaw 29I, while arm 293 is bent inwardly at substantially a right angle and extends through a suitable aperture 295 in arm 294. The arm 293 is provided with a plurality of holding teeth 296 which catch against the inner edge of aperture 295 and serve to hold the clip in the selected clamping position. The inner surface of the clip may, if desired, be provided with a plurality of hair-engaging teeth comprising upset tongues 291 projecting into the collar. For loosening and opening the clip, the outer ends of the arms 293 and 295 may be pressed toward each other, whereby the teeth 296 are released.

In operation, the clip will be fixed to the tress before the mandrel is attached, some slack hair being gathered into the clip. When the winding operation is finished, the clip will be removed and the washers B and their accompanying fastening means can be attached to the tress without pulling the hair.

The invention in its broader aspects is not limited to the specific mechanisms shown and described but departures may be made therefrom. within the scope of the accompanying claims without departing from the principles of the invention and without sacrificing its chief advantages.

What I claim is:-

1. A hair-curling mechanism for permanent waving including in combination an exteriorly smooth mandrel, means slidably engaging a growing tress of hair and cooperating means for curling the tress about the mandrel in predetermined symmetrical form, conforming to a fixed mechanical configuration.

2. A hair-curling mechanism for permanent waving including in combination means for engaging .a growing tress of hair and means cooperating to curl the tress in a predetermined symmetrical helical shape of varying pitch.

3. A hair-curling mechanism for permanent waving including in combination a mandrel for fixedly engaging a growing tress of hair and means mechanically cooperating therewith for winding the free portion of the tress overlappingly around the mandrel in predetermined symmetrical form.

4. A hair-curling mechanism for. permanent waving including in combination a rotatable head for engaging a tress of hair with regulable friction and means for rotating the head in a mechanically predetermined path .as the tress slips through the head under friction.

5. A hair-curling mechanism for permanent waving including in combination a mandrel, a separate device rotatable relatively thereto for winding a tress of hair about the mandrel including a helical guide for progressing the winding device in a mechanically predetermined helical path along .and about the mandrel.

6. A hair-curling mechanism for permanent waving including in combination a mandrel, a hair-guiding head rotatable around the mandrel for winding a tress of hair thereon, and interengaging devices on the interior of the mandrel and head for progressing the head along and about the mandrel in a helical path.

'7. A hair-curling mechanism for permanent waving including in combination a mandrel, a winding device rotatable about the mandrel for coiling a tress of hair thereon, .and interior means on the mandrel for positively controlling the path of movement of said winding device.

8. A hair-curling mechanism for permanent waving including in combination a mandrel, a hair-winding device rotatable about the mandrel for coiling a growing tress of hair thereon and cooperating members for positively progressing the winding device in a predetermined helical path along and about the mandrel, said members being connectible to and disconnectible from successive mandrels.

9. A hair-curling mechanism for permanent waving including in combination a mandrel, means for fixing one end thereof to a tress of hair adjacent the scalp, a member rotatable about the mandrel for winding the tress thereon, and means partly within the mandrel for progressing the rotatable member in a helical path along and around the mandrel.

10. A hair-curling mechanism for permanent waving including in combination a hollow mandrel, a hair-receiving and guiding head rotatable about the mandrel, and means for guiding the head in a helical path of predetermined pitch to coil a tress of hair about the mandrel and a guide traveling within the hollow mandrel.

11. A hair-curling mechanism for permanent waving including in combination means for coiling a tress of hair arounda mandrel in a mechanically predetermined path and means for mechanically driving said coiling means.

12. A hair-curling mechanism for permanent waving including in combination a mandrel, means for fixing one end thereof to a tress of hair adjacent the scalp, means for coiling the free portion of the tress around the mandrel, including a. mechanical guide for controllingthe movement ofthe coiling means, and means for. mechanically driving the coiling means.

13. A hair-curling mechanism for permanent ,waving including in combination a manually r0,-

tatable device for coiling a tress of hair about a mandrel including a mechanical guide for posi, tively controlling the shape of the coil, and means for optionally connecting the device to a mechanically driven shaft.

14. A mechanism for curling hair for permanent waving including in combination a mandrel, a cylindrical head surrounding the mandrel and rotatable thereon, means connectedto the head for holding and guidinga tress of hair, a helicallygrooved member rotatable with the headand means on the mandrel for engaging the helical groove to progress the rotating headand tress of hair in a helical path along and about the mandrel.

15. A mechanism for curling hair for permanent waving including in combination a tubular mandrel, a hair-engaging head rotatable about the mandrel, a guide for controlling the movement of the head rotatable within the mandrel, said head being adapted to wind a tress of hair about the mandrel in a helical path predetermined by the movement of the guide with respect to the mandrel.

16. A hair-winding mechanism for permanent waving including in combination a guide member having configurations corresponding to those to be imparted to a tress of hair, a mandrel, a hairengaging device rotatable about the mandrel, and means for causing the hair-engaging device to travel about the mandrel in a path corresponding to the configurations of the guide member.

17. A hair-winding mechanism for permanent waving including in combination a guide member having a helical configuration of. varying pitch, a mandrel, a hair-engaging device rotatable about the mandrel, and means for causing the hairengaging device to travel about the mandrel in a path corresponding to the configurations of the guide member.

18. A hair-winding mechanism for permanent waving including in combination a mandrel, a hair-engaging device, a predeterminately-shaped guide member movable with said device, and means separate from the mandrel for causing the device to travel about the mandrel in a path corresponding to the'configurations of the guide.

19. A hairwinding mechanism for permanent waving including in combination a tubular mandrel, a hair-engaging device, and means engaging the interior of the mandrel for guiding said device in a helical path with respect to the mandrel.

20. A hair-winding mechanism including in combination a hollow mandrel, a frame rotatable with respect to the mandrel, a hair-engaging head fixed: to the frame and rotatable about the mandrel, a guide member fixed to the frame and extending into the interior of the mandrel and having guiding engagement therewith, the frame serving to transmit to the head the movement of the guide member with respect to the mandrel.

21. A device for winding hair preparatory to imparting a permanent wave thereto including in combination a mandrel having one end attachable'to a tress of human hair adjacent the scalp and a mechanism applicable to said mandrel for winding the tress thereon in a coilof predetermined configuration, said mechanism embodying means for engaging the tress of hair and means for guiding the hair engaging means along and about themandrel in a path conforming to a fixed mechanical configuration, said mechanism being removable from the; mandrel after the hair is wound to permit application of heating means to the coiled tress.

22. Hair waving mechanism including in combination a plurality of mandrels attachable to tresses on a head, a curl winding device-including a helical guide and adapted to. be brought into operative relation with the mandrels successively and power means for rotating the winding device about the mandrels.

23. Hair winding mechanism including in combination a plurality of mandrels attached to tresses near the scalp, a curl winding device grasped by the operator and including a helical guide and adapted to be brought into operative relation with the mandrels successively, hair fiattening and tensioning means associated with said device, power means for rotating the winding device and a clutch controlled by the operator for connecting and disconnecting the winding device and power.

24. Hair winding mechanism including in combination a plurality of mandrels attachable to tresses on a head, a curl winding device grasped by the operator and comprising a helical guide adapted to be brought into operative relation with the mandrels successively to rotate thereabout, an electric motor and a support therefor, and a flexible shaft for driving the winding device from the motor. 25. Hair waving mechanism including in combination mandrels attachable near the roots of tresses on a head, a curl winding device movable into operative relation from the free end of a mandrel attached to a tress, and comprising means for engaging a tress and winding it about the mandrel in a predetermined helical path and means for lapping a binding tape or the like about the exterior of the tress during the winding thereof.

26. Hair waving mechanism including in combination mandrels attachable near the roots of tresses on a head, a curl winding device movable into operative relation from the free end of a mandrel attached to a tress, comprising means for engaging a tress and winding it about the mandrel in a predetermined helical path and rotatable power driven means connectible to and disconnectible from the winder by the operator.

2'7. Hair waving mechanism including in combination mandrels attachable near the roots of tresses on a head, a curling winding device comprising an operating handle grasped by the operator and movable into operative relation from the free end of a mandrel attached to a tress, and comprising means for engaging a tress and winding it about the mandrel in a predetermined helical path and means for moving the device and handle away from the head during the winding operation.

28. Hair waving mechanism including in combination hollow mandrels attachable near the roots of tresses on a head, a curl winding device movable into operative relation with the hollow interior of a mandrel and having tress guiding means near its inner end, and means for effecting combined rotational and linear movement of the winder about the mandrel to curl the tress thereon.

29. Hair waving mechanism including in combination hollow mandrels attachable near the roots of tresses on a head, a curl Winding device movable into operative relation with the hollow interior of a mandrel and having tress guiding means near its inner end, and means for effecting combined rotational and linear movement of the winder about the mandrel to curl the tress thereon into a predetermined path.

30. Hair waving mechanism including in combination hollow mandrels attachable near the roots of tresses on a head, a curl winding device grasped in the hand of the operator movable into operative relation with the hollow interior of a mandrel and having tress guiding tensioning and compressing means near its inner end, and means for effecting combined rotational and linear movement of the winder about the mandrel to curl the tress thereon.

31. Hair waving mechanism including in combination hollow mandrels attachable near the roots of tresses on a head, a curl winding device movable into operative relation with the hollow interior of a mandrel and having tress guiding means near its inner end, means for effecting combined rotational and linear movement of the winder about the mandrel to curl the tress thereon and power means for rotating the winding device.

32. Hair waving mechanism including in combination a mandrel, a winder engaging a tress and supplying tape and winding the curl and the tape along a predetermined path, the tape being laid over the hair to bind and prevent escape of wound and tensioned hairs.

33. Hair waving mechanism including in combination a mandrel, a winder engaging a tress and supplying tape and winding the curl and. the tape along a predetermined path and in overlapping relation, the tape being laid over the hair to bind and prevent escape of wound and tensioned hairs.

34. Hair waving mechanism including in combination a mandrel engaging a tress near its roots, a winder having a hair guide and a tape guide near its inner end, means for moving the winder in a predetermined helical path about the mandrel to wind the hair and tape thereon and means for compressing the hair and tape together as they are wound on the mandrel.

35. Hair waving mechanism including in combination a mandrel, a curl winder, guiding means separate from the mandrel for winding a growing tress in a fixed configuration upon the mandrel and power-actuated driving means for causing the winder to travel according to the fixed configuration of the guiding means.

36. A permanent waving mechanism including in combination a hollow mandrel, a winding device rotatable about the mandrel for coiling a tress thereon and a guide longitudinally movable within the mandrel.

37. A permanent waving mechanism including in combination a hollow mandrel, a winding device rotatable about the mandrel for coiling a tress thereon, and a guide longitudinally movable within the mandrel, the winding device and guide being attachable to and detachable from successive mandrels.

38. A permanent waving mechanism including in combination a mandrel attachable near the roots of a growing tress and means comprising a helical guide movable relatively to the mandrel for winding the tress about the mandrel.

39. A permanent waving mechanism including in combination a hollow mandrel, cooperating tress guiding and winding members including a member traveling within the hollow mandrel, said members being attachable to and detachable from the mandrel.

40. A permanent waving mechanism including in combination, means including a guide for winding a tress in a predetermined configuration on a mandrel, a device for laying tape upon the guided and wound tress, and means for pressing the hair and tape together as they are wound.

41. The method of winding hair for permanent waving which comprises fixing a mandrel to a growing tress and winding the free portion of the tress around the mandrel with a continuous winding movement in a curl of predetermined configuration.

42. A hair curling appliance comprising a device for tensioning and coiling growing hair about a rod and a guide forming part of the appliance and separate from the rod for guiding the device in a predetermined mechanical path along and about the rod.

43. A hair curling appliance comprising a dcvice for tensioning and coiling the hair about a rod, a power driven mechanism for rotating the device about the rod and means separate from the rod having a helical guide for causing the device to move along the rod.

44. A hair curling mechanism including in combination means engaging a growing tress of hair and cooperating means for winding same from the scalp outwardly in a curl of predetermined helical configuration, the pitch thereof varying to conform to the thickness of the tress whereby a curl of substantially uniform thickness may be formed in spite of said variations in thickness of the tress.

45. In a device of the class described, a spindle, hair clamping means carried by said spindle comprising a clamping jaw, a cooperating movable clamping member adapted to press the hair against said clamping jaw, and a screw threaded member mounted directly on said movable member for locking the same in clamping position, said jaw and said screw threaded member having cooperating surfaces for pressing the hair downwardly against said jaw upon tightening movement of said member.

46. In a hair Waving device, a spindle, clamping means mounted at one endof said spindle and extending normal thereto comprising a clamping jaw, a clamping member having relative pivotal movement with respect to said jaw, and means for locking said member in clamping position, and a winding member having longitudinal movement along said spindle for winding the hair thereabout.

4'7. In a hair waving device, a spindle, clamping means mounted at one end of said spindle and extending normal thereto comprising a clamping jaw, a clamping member having relative pivotal movement with respect to said jaw, means for locking said member in clamping position, and a winding and combing member having longitudinal movement along said spindle.

48. A hair-curling mechanism for curling hair on the human head, including in combination a winding device for engaging a growing tress near the scalp and winding the free portion thereof along and about a curling rod, means for imparting continuous rotation to the winding device during the winding operation of a curl and means for continuously forcing said device away from the scalp to effect a helical curling movement.

49. A hair-curling mechanism for curling hair on the human head, including in combination a winding device for engaging a growing tress near the scalp and winding the free portion thereof along and about a curling rod, and means for imparting a continuous helical movement to the winding device during the winding operation of a curl.

50. A hair-curling mechanism for curling hair on the human head, including in combination a winding device for engaging a growing tress near the scalp and winding the free portion thereof along and about a curling rod, means for rotating the winding device and means for continuously forcing said device away from. the scalp during the winding operation of a curl.

51. A hair-curling mechanism for curling hair on the human head, including in combination a winding device for engaging a growing tress near the scalpand winding the free portion thereof along and about a curling rod, means for Wrapping binding tape about a portion of the wound curl to preserve the tension thereof, and means for imparting a continuous helical movement to the winding device and tape-wrapping means.

52. A hair-curling mechanism for curling hair on the human head, including in combination a winding device for engaging and winding tresses about curling rods on the head, said device being movable in a helical path to wind said tresses, a non-rotatable handle connected to said device and means for imparting rotary movement to the device through said handle.

53. A hair wrapping device comprising a body having means for rotatably mounting it on a hair holding mandrel, said body having a passageway through which the lock of hair is passed, and extended coacting lips at the outlet side of said passageway and between which the lock frictionally passes as it is directed tothe mandrel, said lips coacting to transversely flatten the lock for application tothe mandrel.

54. A hair wrapping device comprising a body having means for rotatably mounting it on a hair holding mandrel, said body having means for guiding a lock of hair to the mandrel as it is wrapped on the latter by the body, and coacting lips on the body at the outlet end of said guiding means and between which the lock passes, at least one of said lips being of yielding material.

55. A hair wrapping device comprising a body having a bore for the reception of a hair holding mandrel topermit their relative rotation and having a transverse passageway ending at the bore and through which the lock is passed, and means at the juncture of the passageway and bore that frictionally engages the hair to resist its movement and put tension thereon.

56. A hair wrapping device comprising a body having a bore at one end providing a bearing for rotatably receiving a hair holding mandrel and an open chamber at its other end in which the hair is wrapped on the mandrel as said mandrel and body are relatively rotated, a transverse passageway in the body opening into the chamber and constituting means for directing the hair to the mandrel, and a comb in the passageway.

VIRGINIO JEAN GENTILE.

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