US20040128811A1

US20040128811A1 - Embossed velvet jacquard towels

Info

Publication number: US20040128811A1
Application number: US10/412,789
Authority: US
Inventors: Rajesh Mandawewala
Original assignee: Welspun USA Inc
Current assignee: Welspun USA Inc
Priority date: 2003-01-06
Filing date: 2003-04-10
Publication date: 2004-07-08

Abstract

Processes for forming embossed terry towels and the resulting towels are described herein. The towels have an uneven surface. Thus, the background can be at one height, and the design can be at another height, which is typically higher than the background. The process involves twisting the pile warp that will be used for the design on the towel with PVA filament yarn. The remaining pile warp, which is used to form the background, is 100% cotton. The pile warp is then woven with the ground warp and weft warp to form the towel. The towel is subject to a steaming process, which shrinks the PVA/cotton pile fibers, but does not affect the 100% cotton fibers. The PVA/cotton pile fibers shrink to at least about 50% of their original length under tension free conditions. The towel is then subjected to shearing to produce a velour texture. Due to the shrinkage of the PVA/cotton pile yarns, only the background (100% cotton) pile is cut, and the shrunk pile remains uncut. This towel is then washed in water a high temperature to dissolve the PVA yarns. In the preferred embodiment the temperature of the water is in the range of 55-95° C. This washing dissolves the PVA component in the PVA twisted pile, thereby lifting the uncut pile to its full height. The resulting towel has a sheared background, which produces a velvet effect, and an uncut design, thereby producing an embossing effect on background.

Description

CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

This application claims priority to U.S. Application No. 60/438,562, filed Jan. 6, 2003, entitled “Embossed Velvet Jacquard Towels” to Rajesh Mandavewala.[0001]

FIELD OF INVENTION

The present invention relates to processes for making towels. In particular, the invention is directed at producing jacquard towels with an embossed effect.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Jacquard towels have designs all over the towel. Most of the jacquard towels that are produced as beach towels are velour towels. In this case, the loop piles are sheared on the face shade to produce a velvet effect. Alternatively, jacquard towels may be used as bath or hand and wash towels. These can also be sheared to produce a velvet effect.

During the process of shearing both the design and the back ground are sheared on one side of the towel. This results in plain velvet, or velour, towels, with all of the fibers/yarns at a uniform height on the sheared side. Even for a non-velour jacquard towel, the fibers/yarns which make up the design or motif and the background are of a uniform height. However, there is no method for producing towels with fibers/yarns of a different height, such as to distinguish the background from the design or motif.

Therefore, it is an object of this invention to provide methods for producing towels with fibers at different heights to distinguish the design from the background.

It is also an object of the invention to provide towels which have motifs or designs at one height and a background at a different height.

BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

Processes for forming embossed terry towels and the resulting towels are described herein. The towels have an uneven surface. The background can be at one height, and the design can be at another height, which is typically higher than the background.

The process involves twisting the pile warp that will be used for the design on the towel with PVA filament yarn. The remaining pile warp, which is used to form the background, is 100% cotton. The pile warp is then woven with the ground warp and weft warp to form the towel. The towel is subject to a steaming process, which shrinks the PVA/cotton pile fibers, but does not affect the 100% cotton fibers. The PVA/cotton pile fibers shrink to at least about 50% of their original length under tension free conditions. The towel is then subjected to shearing to produce a velour texture. Due to the shrinkage of the PVA/cotton pile yarns, only the background (100% cotton) pile is cut, and the shrunk pile remains uncut. This towel is then washed in water at a high temperature to dissolve the PVA yarns. In the preferred embodiment the temperature of the water is in the range of 55-95° C. This washing dissolves the PVA component in the PVA twisted pile, thereby lifting the uncut pile to its full height. The resulting towel has a sheared background, which produces a velvet effect, and an uncut design, thereby producing an embossing effect on background.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

I. Embossed Towels [0009]
The finished towels contain 100% cotton material. The towel may be of any design and size. Typical towel sizes include beach, bath, hand, and wash towels. The finished towel has an embossed effect, typically with the background shorter than the design on the towel. Alternatively, the design may be shorter than the background of the towel. [0010]
A. Ground, Pile and Weft Yarns [0011]
Terry towels are formed from three types of yarn. The first type of yarn is the ground warp. The ground warp is the longitudinal set of yarn forming the base fabric. The second type of yarn is the pile warp. The pile warp is placed in the longitudinal direction and produces the pile loops on the towel surface. The pile loops provide a large surface area to maximize the absorption of water. The designs of the jacquard towels appear on the surface of the pile yarn. The third type of yarn is the weft yarn. The weft yarns are laid perpendicular to the pile yarns, and interlace with pile or ground yarn to form the fabric of the towel. The ground, pile and weft yarns are typically 100% cotton yarn. The count covers a broad range, including Ne 10s, 12s, 14s, 16s, 18s, 2/24s. The cotton yarn may be either combed or carded. [0012]
Typical pile yarns used in jacquard towels include: (1) Ne 12s carded with 3.6 TM/12.47 TPI in ‘Z’ direction; (2) Ne 13.5s carded with 3.6 TM/13.22 TPI in ‘Z’ direction; (3) Ne 16s carded with 3.6 TM/14.50 TPI in ‘Z’ direction; and (4) Ne 2/24s carded with 2.45 TM/8.50 TPI in ‘S’ direction. Examples of typical cotton pile yarns are listed in Table 1. [0013]

TABLE 1

TM AND TPI FOR

CARDED AND COMBED COTTON PILE YARNS

Carded Combed

Count TM TPI TM TPI

Ne 12s 3.6 12.47 ‘Z’ 3.4 11.78 ‘Z’

Ne 13.5s 3.6 13.22 ‘Z’ 3.4 12.50 ‘Z’

Ne 16s 3.6 14.50 ‘Z’ 3.4 13.60 ‘Z’
B. Polyvinyl Alcohol Yarn [0014]
Polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) yarn is a synthetic yarn, which is easily dissolved by warm or hot water, without the aid of any chemical agents. Due to its ready solubility, these yarns can not be used for ordinary wear fabrics. [0015]
The counts for suitable PVA yarns cover a broad range, and include 31 Dtex, 40 Dtex, 44 Dtex, 62 Dtex, and 84 Dtex. As the filament becomes finer, the amount of PVA in the twisted yarn decreases. For example, 31 Dtex is the finest available filament and contains the smallest amount of PVA. The preferred PVA filament is 84 Dtex. 84 Dtex PVA yarn improves the performance on the looms and the sharpness of the resulting embossed design. [0016]

One type of PVA filament yarn is manufactured by NITIVY Co. (Japan) and marketed under the brand name SOLVRON®. These PVA yarns have shrinkages ranging from 35 to 60% when subjected to steaming under tension free conditions. Tables 2 and 3 list types of multifilament and monofilament SOLVRON® PVA yarns and their solubility, dissolution and shrinkage properties.

TABLE 2


TYPES OF PVA MULTIFILAMENT YARNS
AND THEIR CHARACTERISTICS

Type

	SH	SM	SL	SX	SS	SP	SF	SHC**

*Temp. for	95	95	70	60	30	25	55	90
Dissolution
(° C.)
Tenacity	3.5-4.5	1.5-2.5	3.5-6	2-4.5	3.5-4.5	3-4	3.4-4.4	4-5
(grm/d.)
(Dry)
Elongation	12-16	30-40	10-20	15-25	10-20	25-35	12-25	10-20
(%)
Solubility	93 ± 3	90 ± 3	50 ± 5	36 ± 4	20 ± 5	15 ± 5	36 ± 5	85 ± 5
in Water
(° C.)
Maximum	45-50	35-40	50-60	45-60	—	—	40-55	55-60
Shrinkage
(%)
Temp. for	85	85	25	20			20	75
Maximum
Shrinkage
(° C.)
Shrinkage	2-7	5-10	50-60	45-60	—	—	—	45-50
in water at
25° C. (%)
(Tension
Free)
Shrinking	0.05-0.1	0.05-1	0.05-1	0.05-1	—	—	—	0.3-0.4
Strength
(grm/d)
(In water at
25° C.)
Sizes	28D/	56D/	28D/	28D/	56D/	56D/	31	28D/9F
	9F	12F	9F	9F	18F	18F	DT
	56D/		40D/	40D/	100D/	75D/	44	75D/
	18F		12F	12F	30F	25F	DT	24F
			75D/	56D/	200D/	100D/	62	100D/
			20F	18F	60F	30F	DT	30F
			100D/	100D/			84	225D/
			30F	20F			DT	100F
				200D/			110
				40F			DT
				300D/			220
				50F			DT
				600D/			330
				50F			DT
				600D/			660
				100F			DT
				900D/
				150F

In the preferred embodiment, the PVA filament is a SL, SX, or SF type of yarn, which dissolves at a temperature within the range of 55 to 80° C. For example, the PVA filament may be: (1) 44 dtex/12 filament SX or SF, which is soluble at 60 to 70° C. in water, with shrinkage of 45 to 60% in water at 20° C. under tension-free conditions; (2) 62 dtex/18 filament SX or SF type soluble at 60 to 70° C. in water, with a shrinkage of 45 to 60% in water at 20° C. under tension-free conditions; or (3) 84 dtex/20 filament SX or SF type soluble at 60 to 70° C. in water, with a shrinkage of 45 to 60% in water at 25° C. under tension-free conditions.

TABLE 3


TYPES OF PVA MONOFILAMENT YARNS
AND THEIR CHARACTERISTICS

Type	MH	ML

*Temp. for	95	70
Dissolution (° C.)
Tenacity (Dry)	3-4	3-4
(grm/d.)
Elongation	15-20	15-20
(%)
Solubility in Water (° C.)	85 ± 5	60 ± 5
Maximum Shrinkage (%)	45-50	40-45
Temp. for Maximum	65	25
Shrinkage (° C.)
Shrinkage in water at 25° C.	33-38	40-45
(%) (Tension Free)
Shrinking Strength (grm/d)	0.1-0.13	0.1-0.13
(In water at 25° C.)
Sizes	30D/1F	30D/1F
	45D/1F	45D/1F
	675D/15F

II. Process for Making Embossed Towels [0019]
A. Preparation of PVA/cotton pile yarn [0020]
The first stage for making the embossed towels is the preparation of PVA filament twisted pile yarn. The pile yarn is 100% cotton yarn. Typical counts include 12 s, 13.5s, 14s, and 16s. The TM for carded cotton is 3.8 in the Z direction and ranges from 3.4 to 3.6 in the Z direction for combed cotton yarns. In the preferred embodiment, the cotton yarn that is twisted with the PVA filament is: (1) Ne 12s carded with 3.6 TM, with a 12.47 TPI in ‘Z’ direction; (2) Ne 13.5s carded with 3.6 TM, with a 13.22 TPI in ‘Z’ direction; or (3) Ne 16s carded with 3.6 TM, with a 14.50 TPI in ‘Z’ direction. [0021]
The Noil for combed cotton yarns ranges from 10% to 22%, and may be 10%, 12%, 14%, 16%, 18%, 20%, or 22%. In the preferred embodiment, the Ne 2/24s carded with 2.45 TM, with a 8.50 TPI in ‘S’ direction fiber is used as pile yarn in the background. The yarns are dyed to the desired shade before they are twisted with PVA fibers. [0022]
The carded or combed cotton yarn is then wound onto soft packages for dyeing or bleaching. Perforated plastic tubes are wound with yarn until the diameter is from 90 to 92 mm, resulting in a density of 36 to 40 gms/liter. [0023]
The yarn is then dyed or bleached in a yarn dying machine (e.g. Eco-bloc) using the standard procedure. [0024]
The dyed or bleached yarn is wound onto paper tubes (1.1 kg package). [0025]
The dyed or bleached pile yarn is assembled on an Assembly Winder with a PVA filament and wound onto cheeses, where both of the yarns are laid parallel to each other. Typically, the PVA filament is at zero tension. Typically, the cotton pile yarn is under tension at index 4. In the preferred embodiment, the Assembly Winder is run at speed of 400 to 450 meters/minute. The resulting yarn weighs 1.100 kgs. [0026]
The assembled packages are put into the Two for One (TFO) Twister pots and twisted in ‘S’ direction. In the preferred embodiment, the speed of the TFO Twister is set and maintained at 10,500 rpm. Optionally, the capsule in the tension device is removed and an additional metal washer is inserted on the flyer to even out the tension on the TFO for successful twisting. [0027]
The twist per inch (TPI) employed in the TFO is 2.0 TPI more than the single yarn, i.e. for Ne 12s carded the doubling TPI will be 14.47 in ‘S’ direction, for Ne 13.5s carded, it will be 15.22 in ‘S’ direction and for Ne 16s carded it will be 16.50 in ‘S’ direction. The TPI may exceed these values by +0.5. [0028]

Table 4 lists the resultant count and percentage of PVA in different combinations of PVA/cotton pile yarn.

TABLE 4


Resultant Count and % PVA in Twisted Yarn

	Resultant Count
Cotton Yarn twisted with PVA Yarn	[Ne]	% of PVA

Ne 12s + 44 dtex	11.00	8.25
Ne 12s + 62 dtex	10.66	11.20
Ne 12s + 84 dtex	10.24	14.65
Ne 13.5s + 44 dtex	12.26	9.20
Ne 13.5s + 62 dtex	11.83	12.42
Ne 13.5s + 84 dtex	11.32	16.19
Ne 16s + 44 dtex	14.28	10.71
Ne 16s + 62 dtex	13.69	14.38
Ne 16s + 84 dtex	13.02	18.60

All of the PVA will ultimately dissolve in water and be washed away. This weight loss provision should be accounted for when determining on the grams per square meter (gsm) of the towel. [0030]
The twisted yarn is wound onto cones (e.g. paper tubes) on the TFO and sent to Weaving Preparatory for warping. The package weight is around 1.75 to 2.0 kgs. No special care is required in warping, except to ensure that the yarn passage is smooth at contact points to prevent the PVA yarn from bunching. During warping, the tension on both PVA twisted yarn and cotton yarn can be kept at around 40 to 45 gms and speed of the warping around 600 meters per minute (mpm). [0031]
B. Weaving the Pile, Weft, and Ground Fibers [0032]
The standard weaving procedures for making jacquard towels are used. On the loom also no special arrangements or changes are required. Under normal conditions, a loom efficiency of 78 to 83% can be achieved. [0033]
C. Steaming the Towels [0034]
After weaving, the towels are subjected to steaming to shrink the PVA/cotton pile to about 50%. The 100% cotton fiber is conditioned by the steaming process, while the PVA/cotton twisted fiber shrinks. [0035]
The process of steaming is a continuous one. The steam injected inside the steaming chamber is fully saturated steam at 90-102° C. The fabric remains within the steaming chamber for approximately 10-20 minutes. In the preferred embodiment, the fabric remains in the steaming chamber for 20 minutes. The fabric is immediately dried upon exiting the steam chamber. In the preferred embodiment, the fabric is dried in an infra-red ray drying chamber attached to the steamer. [0036]
Under these conditions, the PVA twisted yarn shrinks by at least 45%, thus giving the desired results for subsequent shearing. For example, if the pile height of the PVA twisted cotton yarn was originally 4.5 mm and if the yarn shrinks by about 50%, then the yarn will shrink to a height of 2.25 mm. [0037]
D. Shearing the 100% Pile Yarn [0038]
The towels are then sheared on a Shearing Machine in the standard manner. The cutter or laser blade setting must be set close enough to cut the 100% cotton pile, but not so low as to cut the shrunken PVA/cotton pile. Typically, the 100% cotton pile will be cut by about 1.5-2.0 mm. For example, if the 100% pile has a height of about 4.5 mm and 1.5 mm of the pile are sheared, then the resulting height of the 100% cotton yarn is 3.0 mm. If the PVA/cotton pile shrunk by 50% during the steaming (to about 2.25 mm), then the PVA/cotton pile will not be sheared during this process. [0039]
E. Dissolving the PVA Fiber [0040]
The towels are then washed in water at a temperature ranging from 55-95° C. Preferably, the temperature ranges from 100-120° C. This step may occur in a fabric dying machine. The PVA is difficult to dissolve if it is in the presence of salts, such as sodium sulfate and sodium chloride; alkali, such as caustic soda; heavy metals, such as chromium; formalin; or reactive dyes. Therefore, the vessel in which the dissolution step occurs should be thoroughly cleaned and rinsed before loading it with the towel material. [0041]
The liquor ratio is a ratio of the material (weight) to water (volume). The liquor ratio should be sufficient to facilitate prompt dissolution of the PVA, while allowing free movement of the fabric. Typically the liquor ratio is 1:30. The material is wound into a rope prior to entering the dissolution step. The rotation of the material is essential to promote rapid dissolution. A continual overflow of water is also desired. [0042]
After washing, the water is drained and fresh water is injected for rinsing to eliminate all the dissolved PVA. The water is at a temperature ranging from 55-100° C. Preferably, the water is at a high temperature, such as 95° C. The PVA coagulates during the dissolving step and promptly dissolves in hot water if the high temperature is maintained. Therefore, the fabric should be rinsed in hot water after draining to wash away any PVA residue. [0043]
F. Drying and Straightening the Towels [0044]
After unloading the material from the washing and rinsing vessel, the material is hydro-extracted in a Hydro-extractor in the standard manner. The rope is passed through rope opener to straighten the twist in the rope and the material is then passed through a hot air dryer (e.g. Alea) in the standard manner. [0045]
The uncut pile (i.e. formerly PVA/cotton pile) raises and attains full height during hot-air drying and drum beating attached to the dryer. After the drying step, the fabric is sent through a weft straightener and then to a stenter to straighten the fabric and return it to its proper dimensions. [0046]
The remaining procedures, including length cutting, length hemming, cross cutting, cross hemming, checking, folding, and packaging are performed according to the standard practice. [0047]

EXAMPLES

Example 1

Production of Embossed Velvet Jacquard Bath Towel

The pile yarn was 2/24s KC dyed yarn for the background pile and 11.5 PVA/cotton 13.5×62 dtex PVA, 15.5 TPI (87% cotton and 13% PVA) white, bleached yarn for the design pile. The number of pile ends was 888, and the pile weight was 404 kg. The ground warp was 2/24 KC dyed yarn. The ground warp had 1016 ends and weighed 68.89 kg. Two types of weft yarn were used. One was 16s KC dyed, with 2418 picks and a weight of 71.77 kg, and the other was 2/24 KC dyed, with 180 picks and a weight of 7.12 kg. [0048]

The pile, ground and weft yarns were woven together under normal conditions. The loom was run at 250 rpm. Table 5 lists the specifications for the weaving process.

TABLE 5


On loom specifications

	Reed space for terry	75.26 cm
	Reed space for towel	80.26 cm
	Number of towels per Reed Space	4
	Reed space utilization	327.03 cm
	Pile Ratio	6.89
	Pile height	5.7 mm
	Ends/cm	11.81
	Picks/inch	45.72
	Type of Terry	3 pick
	Rpm	250
	Finished Ends/inch pile	32.19

The properties of the fabric when it is removed from the loom, i.e. the grey towel, are listed in Table 6.

TABLE 6


Grey Towel Specifications

	Grey width	74.13 cm
	Grey length	141.40 cm
	Weight of towel	558.90 g
	Plain portion in width	5.0 cm
	Plain portion in length	8.0 cm
	Weight of Grey Towel	558.90 g
	Terry portion in length	133.0 cm
	Selvedge to selvedge width	79.13 cm

Following weaving, the towels were subjected to steaming at 90° C. for about 2 minutes to ensure that the PVA twisted pile yarn shrunk to at least 50%. Meanwhile, the 100% cotton pile was conditioned. The steaming and setting was done on the shearing machine, which contained a special steaming attachment. The fabric stayed about 1 to 2 minutes with steam before it was sent to be pleated in the trolley through the pleater. [0051]
Then the towels were then sheared on the Shearing Machine. The speed of shearing machine was 8 to 10 meters/minute. The cutter/laser blade was set to cut the 100% cotton pile by about 1.5 to 2.0 mm to produce a velvet background. [0052]
The towels were then washed in a fabric dying machine at 70 to 80° C. with a liquor ratio or 1:30 for about 15 to 20 minutes. The water was drained at 95 to 100° C., and fresh hot water at a temperature of 95° C. was injected for rinsing to eliminate all of the dissolved PVA. [0053]
After the material was removed from the dying machine, it was hydro-extracted in the Hydro-extractor. [0054]
The rope was untwisted in the rope opener. The material was then dried by passage through a hot air dryer (Alea). The full width fabric was then passed through a hot air stenter, which was attached with a weft straightener, to recover the dimensions of the towel. [0055]

After drying and straightening, the towels were then carried through length cutting, length hemming, cross cutting, cross hemming, and folding according to standard procedures. The properties of the finished embossed velvet towel are listed in Table 7.

TABLE 7


Finished Towel Specifications

	Dimensions	69 cm × 132 cm
	Plain portion in width	5.0 cm
	Terry portion in width	67.8 cm
	GSM	540 g/m²
	Weight of finished towel	491.83 g
	Weight of Grey Towel	558.90 g
	Weight loss (%)	12%
	Plain portion in length	2.40 cm
	Design portion in length	3.0 cm
	Terry portion in length	72.60 cm
	Shrinkage %	11%

It must be noted that as used herein and in the appended claims, the singular forms “a”, “an”, and “the” include plural reference unless the context clearly dictates otherwise. Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meanings as commonly understood by one of skill in the art to which the disclosed invention belongs. Although any methods and materials similar or equivalent to those described herein can be used in the practice or testing of the present invention, the preferred methods, devices, and materials are as described. [0057]
Those skilled in the art will recognize, or be able to ascertain using no more than routine experimentation, many equivalents to the specific embodiments of the invention described herein. Such equivalents are intended to be encompassed by the following claims. [0058]

Claims

We claim:

1. A process for making an embossed towel comprising

weaving a filament formed of a heat shrinkable, water soluble material twisted with cotton pile yarn with cotton pile yarn, ground warp, and weft yarn to form a towel,

shrinking the water-soluble filament twisted with cotton pile yarn,

shearing the cotton pile yarn, and

dissolving the water-soluble filament in the towel.

2. The process of claim 1, wherein the water-soluble filament has a count of 31 Dtex, 40 Dtex, 44 Dtex, 62 Dtex, or 84 Dtex.

3. The process of claim 1, wherein the cotton pile yarn has a count of 10s, 12s, 14s, 16s, 18s, or 2/24s.

4. The process of claim 1, wherein the shrinking occurs in saturated steam.

5. The process of claim 1, wherein the dissolving step comprises washing the towel in water at a temperature ranging from 55-95° C.

6. The process of claim 5, further comprising a second washing in water at a temperature of 95° C.

7. The process of claim 1, wherein the heat shrinkable, water soluble material is polyvinyl alcohol.

8. The process of claim 1, wherein the cotton pile yarn is 100% cotton.

9. A pile yarn comprising heat-shrinkable, water-soluble filament twisted with cotton yarn, wherein the heat-shrinkable, water-soluble filament has a shrinkage ranging from 35 to 60% when subjected to steaming under tension free conditions and is capable of dissolving in water at a temperature ranging from 55° C. to 95° C.

10. The pile yarn of claim 9, wherein the heat-shrinkable, water-soluble filament has a count of 31 Dtex, 40 Dtex, 44 Dtex, 62 Dtex, or 84 Dtex.

11. The pile yarn of claim 9, wherein the cotton pile yarn has a count of 10s, 12s, 14s, 16s, 18s, or 2/24s.

12. The pile yarn of claim 9, wherein the heat-shrinkable, water soluble filament comprises polyvinyl alcohol.

13. The pile yarn of claim 9, wherein the cotton yarn is 100% cotton.

14. A jacquard towel, wherein the towel has a background at one height and a design at a second height.

15. The towel of claim 14, wherein the background is shorter than the design.