US1956457A - Device for printing cutting lines for men's and women's garments - Google Patents

Description

April 24, 1934-. p vlOLANTE 1,956,457

DEVICE'FOR PRINTING CUTTING LINES FOR MEN'S AND WOMEN'S GARMENTS Filed Jan. 18, 1932 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 Fay / V1 0 IanZalrvwfn roig G7 MWM April 24, 1934. vlCLANTE 1,956,457

DEVICE FOR PRINTING CUTTING LINES FOR MEN'S AND WOMEN'S GARMENTS Filed Jan. 18, 1932 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 Iver/Ta t April 24, 1934., vlOLANTE 1,956,457

DEVICE FOR PRINTING CUTTING LINES FOR MENS AND WOMEN'S GARMENTS Filed Jan. 18, 1932 {Sheets-Sheet 5 pvfobmi ww MM April 24, 1934. VIQLANTE 1,956,457

DEVICE FOR PRINTING CUTTING LINES FOR MENS AND WOMENS GARMENTS Filed Jan. 18, 1932 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 mew/j Patented Apr. 24, 1934 pres DEVECE FGR PRHN'EING CUTTING LINES FOR- MENS AND WQI /IENS GARMENTS 3 Claims.

The invention relates to a device adapted to be used for automatically printing on paper, cloth and similar material all the lines to be followed for cutting out mens or womens garments, when the said device has been set in accordance with only quite a limited number of measures taken on the person and with the possible anatomical imperfections of the body thereof.

In my prior U. S. A. Patent 1,447,229 I have disclosed a device for cutting out womens garments, but the said device does not automatically print the lines to be followed for cutting out the garments; in fact the templates of this prior device give only interrupted lines to be traced normally on the paper or cloth, and the complementary spaces of the said lines between the traces furnished by the device were to be marked freely by hand, which results in very imperfect full lines of cutting.

On the contrary, according to my present invention, the device having templates for mens and womens garments prints automatically the full lines to be followed for cutting out the garments. This essential improvement makes the device very ehioient, as it gives on the cloth or paper the actual perfect and continuous lines for the cutting.

The device according to my invention comprises in combination: templates for defining the full lines to be followed for the cutting operations of womens garments; templates for defining the full lines for mens garments; means carried by the said templates for printing on paper or cloth the said full and continuous cutting lines; arms carrying the said templates and each racked to' engage with a correspondent control toothed wheel; a system of toothed wheels or gears for controlling the position of the said arms and templates; and means for driving the said gears in accordance with quite a limited number of measures taken on the person, for the purpose of setting the said templates in position to define and print the full and continuous lines of cutting corresponding to the taken measures.

Spring means are provided for normally retaining the templates clear from the paper or cloth to be marked, so that, after having been depressed by hand, the templates set in a desired position, are automatically raised from the paper or cloth, on which they have printed their lines of cutting.

Other features of the device according to my present invention will appear from the following description thereof, taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, in which:

Fig. l is a schematical side view of the central control mechanism;

Fig. 2 is a detail of the printing device;

Fig. 3 is a schematical plan view of the gears and racks of a part of the device;

Fig. 4. is a schematical plan view of the gears and racks of another part of the device;

Fig. 5 is a whole plan view of the templates 5 for womens garments, the templates being mounted on the device;

Fig. 6 is a whole plan view of the templates for mens garments, the templates being mounted on the device.

The central mechanism of the device is supported by a central shaft 1, on which is mounted a spur wheel 2 controlling an upper set of pinions and racks, and a toothed wheel 3 controlling a lower set of pinions and racks. The spur wheel 2 is controlled by a hand wheel 4 and the spur wheel 3 is controlled by a hand wheel 5. When the wheel 2 moves, an indicating device 6 moves also, showing through a window in the upper cover 8 of the case protecting the mechanism, the 0 waist measures, while the spur wheel 3 moves in the same way another indicating device '7 showing through another window in cover 8 the breast measures. A double armed lever device 9 makes it possible to reciprocally engage both 5 hand wheels 4 and 5 for acting simultaneously, by pressing a button 10, so that for the measures of persons of normal size only one hand wheel needs to be operated; by pressing a button 11, the two hand wheels are disengaged from one another in order to allow separate control of the single templates in those cases where a disproportion exists between the waist and. breast measures. Number 12 indicates the upper plate bearing the upper pinion gear and rack set, and 13 indicates the lower plate bearing the lower pinion gear and rack set. 8' denotes the bottom of the case protecting the mechanism.

In Fig. 2 is shown, housed in a tooth projecting from the template edges, a rubber strip 15, the lower part of which being inked with a suitable colouring substance which prints on the paper or cloth the lines for the cutting operations.

The central spur wheel 2 of the upper plate 12 5 (Fig. 3) controls a set of pinions 2 2 2 2 causing by their rotation the displacement of eight straight racks 1'7 1'7 17 17 17 1'7 17, 17 having mounted on one of their ends the respective templates 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 for the lines marking the waist. These racks are guided in straps 19 19 19 19 19 provided with suitable slots and fixed by screws on the plate. dow 20 is provided for reading the measure numbers brought by the indicating device '7, and two other windows 21 and 22 are provided for the inspection of the gears belonging to the lower set. Four pillars 23 join the upper plate 12 to the lower plate 13.

The central spur wheel 3 of the lower plate 13 (Fig. 4) controls a set of pinions 24 24 24 24 causing by their rotation the displacement of five curved racks 25 25 25 25 25 and one straight rack 26, having all mounted on one of their ends the respective templates 27 27 27 27 27 28 for the lines marking the breast. These racks also are guided in straps 19 and there are likewise in plate 13 two windows 21 and 22 for the inspection of the gears.

Besides the mentioned displacements, other movements may be obtained by devices not connected with the central mechanism, in order to change the course of the lines when the cloth is to be out for garments fitting persons whose body presents deformities of any kind. For this purpose controllable connections are provided between the different racks and the templates mounted on them. In Fig. 5, 2.9 and denote two screws and slot connections of rack 25 with its template 27 respectively of rack 25 with its template 27 On displacing the screws 29 and 30 along their curved slot, a displacement of the templates marking a given protuberance is ob tained. When a line corresponding to a local irregularity of the waist is to be printed, the screw 31 is to be displaced along its slot on rack 17 so that template 18 gets into the desired position.

In the same way other screws 32, 33, 34 sliding in corresponding slots may fix the templates 18 18 and 2'7 in a position giving a seamless pattern from breast to shoulder.

In order to have the possibility of fitting the device into a box, the templates 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 and 18 may be folded up by hinges provided in the notches marking the waist and shown in 35 of Fig. 5. v v The templates described in connection with Fig. 5 print the lines for cutting womens garmerits, whilst the templates shown in Fig. 6 belong to mens garments. These templates are indicated by numbers like those of Fig. 5. Templates 18 2'7 36 and 2'7 form the rear part, 18 18 38 form the side of the rear part, 18 18 2'7 27 2'7 form the side of the front part and 28, 18 18 and 18 form the front part of the garment to be cut. If it is desired to prepare the garment in two pieces instead of four, the outlines are given by templates 18 2'7 36, 42, 18 18 for the rear part, and by templates 18 18 27 28, 18 18 and 18 for the front part; for the sleeve, templates 43, 44, give the overa'rm, and templates 45, 46, 4'7, 48 the under-arm, whilst for the sleeve in one piece templates 18 43, 44, 18 2'7 27 27 are to be used.

In order to obtain in Fig. 5 the lines forming womens patterns, templates 18 27 36, 2'7 49 give the rear part; templates 18 18 18 27 27 50, 27 28, 18 give the front part, and templates 48, 47, 46, 45 the lower part of the sleeve. For trousers in Fig. 6, templates 18 and 18 give the front part, template 41 the bifurcation part, whilst templates 18 and 18 give the rear part with template 41 for the bifurcation part.

In plate 12 a circular win-- The diversity of out being very limited only two movements are to be operated for the corresponding change of the lines given by the templates, that is to say: for tight coats the rear part line is obtained by displacing templates l8 and 18 until they reach the end of the screw slots, whilst the front part line is obtained by carrying templates 18 and 18" forward until their securing screws also reach the end of the corresponding slots.

The templates designed to cooperate reciprocally are interconnected by coupling pieces bearing the device shown in Fig. 2 for the impression of the full lines, so that by this completion the described apparatus makes it possible to allow for any deformities or irregularities of the body, as for instance tendency to curving forward or backward, high or low shoulders, gibbosity or prominent belly.

The said apparatus permits to obtain completely marked and well shaped outlines for cutting out garments, improving greatly the r sults given by similar apparatus known up to now, which only furnish geometrical base lines to be afterwards completed by free hand and differently shaped in regard to the change of fashion; these completing operations conduce to a great loss of time and waste of cloth, and may even contribute to produce defective garments.

The apparatus according to the invention allows also to print the lines directly on the cloth without making use of chalk or pencil, and allows to trace every line required by fashion and by every type of garments, as for instance adherent or straight dresses, flare shaped dresses, pajamas, drawers, raglan sleeves, clutched models or draperies, kimonos and so on, and similarly for men, single or double breast jackets, Waistcoats, trousers, and tight coats.

The upper indicating device driven by the hand wheel 4 shows the breast measures going from a minimum of 32 inches to a maximum of 52 inches; the lower indicating device driven by the hand wheel 5 shows the hip measures going from a minimum or" 34 inches to a maximum of 54 inches.

The straight racks move on in a straight line as far as to reach the largest dimension, whilst the curved racks reach this largest dimension by following anatomically the lines of the body.

For the adaptation of the measures on the device, only two measures are wanted, viz., the measure taken over the breast and the measure taken around the hips, the measure of length changing besides according to fashion; by these two measures it may be judged if there are or are not any irregularities, and consequently if the two hand wheels 4 and 5 want or do not want to be reciprocally engaged for acting simultaneously, by the button 11.

For the adjusting of the device according to the taken measures, the upper hand wheel is operated for the breast measure and the lower hand. wheel is operated for the hip measures.

For the printing of the lines on the cloth or paper the edges 16 of the rubber strips 15 are inked with a colouring substance by a suitable buffer; the device is then laid on the paper or cloth to be marked and the lines of the templates for the model to be cut out are pressed down by the hand. The templates, after having printed their lines in the described manner, may be raised, in order to be again detached from the cloth or paper, by means of springs a shown in Fig. 1 between lower cover and gear.

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It is to be understood that the invention is not limited to the form of execution illustrated and described; on the contrary, the invention embraces all variations that may be included in the following claims, especially concerning the driving mechanism.

What I claim is:

1. A device for printing cutting lines for mens and womens garments, comprising adjustable templates for defining the cutting lines, rubber printing strips on said templates for printing the cutting lines on the surface to be marked, and springs for normally preventing contact between said strips and said surface, the said strips being arranged to follow the Whole course of the cutting lines so as to print complete cutting lines on said surface when pressed thereon against the action of the springs.

2. A device for printing cutting lines for mens and Womens garments, comprising a set of adjustable templates, for defining c -tting lines derived from breast measurements, a further set of adjustable templates for defining cutting lines derived from waist measurements, printing means on said templates for printing complete cutting lines on the surface to be marked, toothed racks carrying said templates, toothed wheels forv actuating said racks, and operating means for said toothed wheels, said operating means including two controlling hand wheels associated respectively with the sets of templates.

3. A device for printing cutting lines for mens and womens garments, comprising a set of adjustable templates for defining cutting lines derived from breast measurements, a further set of adjustable templates for defining cutting lines derived from waist measurements, printing means on said templates for printing complete cutting lines on the surface to be marked, toothed racks carrying said templates, operating means for said racks including two controlling hand-Wheels associated respectively with the sets of templates, and a manually operable latch for coupling and uncoupling said hand-wheels to and from each other when desired.

PASQUALE VIOLANTE.

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