US1952013A - Garment and method of making the same - Google Patents

Description

March 20, 1934. R, o. KENNEDY GARMENT .AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed June 8, 1932 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 fiweiziar fiz'akawd 0.13737 March 20, 1934. R Q. KENNEDY 1,952,013

GARMENT AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME fiweular fiidzm'd 0, j ferwwdy M @zmmw UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE GARMENT AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Richard Oakley Kennedy, Troy, N. Y., assignor to Cluett, Peabody & 00., Inc., Troy, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application June 8, 1932, Serial No. 616,057

1 Claim. (01. 2-131) This invention pertains to garments and relates to puff out or project, thus giving the undesirmore particularly to garments such for example able wavy or wrinkled appearance. Assuming as shirt collars, etc., in which a finished edge that this theory accounts to some extent at least is made by infolding and seaming a plurality for the observed defects, I have sought to remedy "o of plies of the garment material, and to an imthis condition by confining the raw edges of the proved method of making such garments. In plies in the region which extends outwardly bethe manufacture of hand-turned collars, for exyond the usual running seam so as to prevent ample, three blanks are superimposed in registry such fanning-out or elongation. One desirable with one another,-the two facing blanks being means of confining or binding such marginal 3L0 arranged together, and an interliner blank inimaterial together is by the use of one or more tially forming a third and outer ply. The three auxiliary sewed seams substantially parallel to blanks are then stitched together by a marginal the first usual seam, one of said auxiliary seams line of stitching which extends along one longiat least, if more than one are used, being distudinal edge and the two transverse or end edges. posed as 01056 t raw edge of the material Where the longitudinal and transverse lines of as it is convenient and practical to make it. 70 stitching meet, the collar points areformed. The While a sewed seam is practical and useful for collar is then turned inside out, ordinarily by a the purpose, I contemplate the employment of manual operation, with the result that the interother means for uniting the raw edge portions liner is disposed between the two facing plies, of the material, for example suitable cement and the edges of all three plies are inturned, or adhesive. 75. thereby concealing the stitching. Thereafter a Except for this binding or confining of the second marginal line of exposed stitching is run margins of the plies before turning the garment, paralleling the concealed longitudinal and transthe operation may be performed in the usual verse lines of stitching, thus forming a completed manner and by usual means, but when the article top which is ready for attachment to the band. is completed and laundered I find that the ob-- 8d The result of the above mode of finishing garjectionable undulations commonly observed in ments is that the margin of the garment comprevious structures are absent or at least so reprises more plies (for example, twice as many) duced in number and/or in height that as comthan the body portion of the garment, thus formpared with usual conditions they are of little '30 ing a distinct, but usually fiat, bead at the edge. consequence. 85

When such a garment is laundered, this beaded In the accompanying drawings,

edge shows a marked tendency to wrinkle or Fig. l is a fragmentary front elevation of a exhibit a series of surface undulations or hillocks shirt having a collar embodying the present inspaced longitudinally of the edge and usually of vention attached thereto;

small actual height (measured from the plane Fig. 2 is an enlarged fragmentary front eleva- 9d of the garment material) but by the formation tion of one corner portion of the improved collar, of shadows upon the highly reflecting surface illustrating the smoothness of the marginal bead; giving the appearance of substantial elevations Fig. 3 is a view similar to Fig. 2 but illustratand making it seem that the ironing operation ing the appearance commonly observed in collars 0 has been insufiicient or that the garment is imof prior constructions; perfectly tailored. Various expedients have been Fig. 4 is a plan view showing three collar blanks proposed whereby to eliminate this defect and disposed in superposed relation as is usual in the several explanations have been advanced to acmanufacture of hand-turned collars and illuscount for the phenomenon, but neither the protrating the additional marginal seam provided in posed remedies or the explanations offered have accordance with the present invention; 100 previously been satisfactory. Fig. 5 is a section to large scale on the line In considering this matter I have concluded 5-5 of Fig. 4; that a part of the observed effect, at least, may Fig. 6 is a fragmentary elevation, showing one be due to the fact that the first running seam, end of the collar after turning but before the which unites the several plies face to face before final seam has been made; 10 the garment is turned, is so spaced from the raw Fig. I is a large scale section on the line 77 edge of the material that the raw edge is perof Fig. 6; mitted to fan-out or expand longitudinally when Fig. 8 is a view similar to Fig. 6, but showing subjected to laundry processes, and that the exthe final seam which unites the front and rear 55. panded marginal material causes the outer plies plies of the collar; and, 1210 Fig. 9 is a large scale section on the line 9-9 of Fig. 8.

Referring to the drawings the numeral 1 designates a portion of a garment, for example, a shirt having a collar 2 attached thereto, such collar having the finished outer edge 3. The garment is also shown as provided with a front pleat or button strip 4 having finished edges 5. Ihe edges 5 may, if desired, be finished in the same way as the edges 3 of the collar,-the latter hav--. ing been chosen for specific description herein as illustrative of the invention.

Referring to Fig. 2, I have shown a portion of a collar embodying the present invention, to somewhat lar er scale, such collar having the edge 3 and the sewed seam 6 spaced inwardly from the edge. In collars of usual construction, as, for example, that herein particularly described, the marginal portion of the collar outwardly from the seam 6 consists of a greater number of plies than the body of the collar so that the marginal portion forms in effect a thickened fiat bead. In

accordance with the present invention this beaded edge is so constructed that when subjected to laundering it remains smooth, free from wrinkles and without undulations. As compared with the novel construction herein disclosed, the usual collar 2 having the finished edge portion 3* and the seam 6 (Fig. 3) shows, after laundering, a series of more or less irregular wrinkles or undulations 7 which detract from its appearance and which can not be avoided, even where the greatest care and skill is used in laundering.

To avoid the defect just referred to, I proceed at first substantially as usual by providing a plurality of collar blanks 8, 9, 10 etc. (Fig. 4), the blank 8 being an interliner and the blanks 9 and 10 designed to furnish outer or finish plies. These blanks are arranged in registering relation, the edge 11 of each blank usually being a raw edge, and after assemblage in this manner they are united as usual by a sewed seam 12 which usually extends along the edge 11 and along the end edges of the blank, such seam being spaced inwardly from the extreme edge to avoid fraying of the material.

In accordance with the present invention, the marginal material of the composite structure thus provided, that is to say, the material lying out- Wardly beyond the seam 12, is now so treated as to prevent the outer edge of such margin from varying substantially in length with respect to its inner edge as defined by the seam 12 when subjected to laundering processes. To this end I con-, template that the entire area of the marginal material may 7 for example be bound together by the use of cement or the like, but I find, as a practical matter, that it is sufficient to unite the several plies along the extreme outer edge of this marginal portion by means of a second seam 13 which I apprehend should be as near the edge as it is practically possible to place it and preferably formed of the same thread and with the same number of stitches per inch as the seam 12. I further contemplate the employment of additional seams between the seams 12 and 13, if desired, although I do not regard such seams as necessary. This binding of the marginal material 14 defined between the seams l2 and 13 forms a substantially balanced structure which has little tendency to fan-out or otherwise irregularly elongate or buckle during the laundering process.

Having thus treated the edge material, I now proceed to finish the collar by turning it in the usual manner so asto cause the liner blank 8, together with the marginal portions of the several plies, to be concealed between the plies 9 and 10, thus furnishing a finished edge at 15. Preferably the plies 8, 9 and 10 are now united by a sewed seam 16 which is preferably spaced from the finished edge 15 a distance at least as great as the width of the inturned margin so that the stitches of the seam 16 do not pass through the marginal material. However, under some cir cumstances I contemplate that the seam 16 may engage the inner edge of the infolded margin but draws the outer plies 9 and 10 together, as shown in Fig. 9, so that their marginal portions intermediate the seam 16 and the finished edge 15 is subjected to a slight uniformly distributed tension.

The collar may now be completed in any usual manner, depending upon whether it is to be an attached or a detached collar, and when completed exhibits the improved characteristics above noted, that is to say substantial freedom from wrinkling or fluting along its edge portion when subjected to laundering.

While I have herein described the invention with particular reference to a collar, I contemplate its utility in forming other finished edges on garments as for example such an edge as that shown at 5 in Fig. 1.

I claim:

7 A multi-ply collar having a finished margin in the form of a narrow fiat bead so constructed as to remain substantially smooth, free from wrinkles and without undulations when subjected to laundering, said collarcomprising an interliner blank and a pair of outer or facing blanks, a seam uniting all of said blanks, said seam being spaced from but substantially parallel to the finished edge of the completed collar, that portion of one of the outer blanks which projects beyond said seam diverging from the interliner and from the second outer blank immediately beyond said seam, said projecting portion of the first outer blank being doubled on itself to form an inturned marginal ply, the projecting portions of the interliner blank and of the second outer blank also being doubled to form inturned marginal plies, the fold lines of the several blanks being substantially superposed and the free edges of the several plies also being substantially in registry and disposed closely adjacent to said seam in the angle of divergence of the projecting portions of the several blanks, a second seam uniting said marginal plies only, said second seam being as near to the free edges of the marginal plies as it is practicable to place it, and a third seam uniting said marginal plies only, said third seam being spaced from the second seam and .being substantially parallel to the latter and closely adjacent to the superposed fold lines of the several blanks.

. RICHARD. OAKLEY KENNEDY.

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