US188896A - harrison - Google Patents

Description

Z SheetsSheet 1 M. HARRISON.

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M. HARRISON.

DRESS-CHART.

No. 188,896. Patented. March 27,1877.

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NPHEHS. PHOTD LITHOGRAFHERI WASHINGTON. D (1.

FATENT @FFIGE.

MARGARET HAnhI'soN, OF ROCK IsLAND, ILLINOIS.

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Specification forming part of Letters'P atent No. 18?,896, dated March 27, 1877; application filed November 29, 1876.

To ali whom it niaylconcej az r p p, M

Be it known that 1, Mrs. M. HARRISON, of Rock Island, inH the county of Rock Island and State of Illinois, have invented a new.

and useful Improvementin Patterns for Cutting Ladies and Childrens Garments, of which the following is a specification:

This invention relates to the method of cutting and fitting outer garinentsfor ladies and children by meansof pattern eharts; and it consists'of a number of improvedpatterns', perforated and provided with graduated scales, by the use of which a correct and perfect fit may be obtained.

In the annexed drawings, Figure 1 is a View of the former pattern for shaping the front shoulder and neck, and the scale for determining the position of the arm-holes. Fig. 2 is a view of the pattern for drafting the back shoulder and back arm-hole, and the scale for finding width of the back. Fig. 3 isthe pattern containing the forms for shaping the front arm-hole and the back side-form. Fig. 4 is thepatter'n" containing the forms for drafting the darts, and the scales for the front and back waist. Fig. 5 is a small pattern for forming the front arm-hole and neck of childrens dresses.

The same letters of reference are used in all the figures to designateidentical parts.

As indicated in the drawings, the line A, Fig. 1, is to shape the front shoulder. B is the line for the neck.

The line 0, Fig. 4., represents the breastmeasure. Line D, Fig. 3, forms the front armsize, and the line E, same figure, shapes the back side-form.

Lines F and G, Fig. 4, represent the front and back waist scales. Line E, Fig. 2, is to shape the back shoulder, and line I, same figure, shapes the back arm-size.

The line D, Fig. 5, is to shape the neck, and B, same figure, the front arm-size, of childrens dresses.

In drafting the front of a ladys basque, the

following directions should be followed, viz:

Place the neck-size scale B so that the second line, marked 15,- will touch the edge of the cloth, and dot at figure 3 on neck-scale, and at 7 on the front shoulder'scale.

Then move the scale down until the-neckpoint touches the dot at 3, and the shoulderline the dot at 7. Connect the two dots by a line to shape the shoulder, allowing for the draw a line to shape the neck.

Now move the scale round until the figure 34L on the arm-size scale touches the end of the line drawn for the shoulder. Apply the breast-measure G one-half inch from the front edge of 'the cloth (to allow for a hem) straight across to the dot and straight line on the lower end of the arm-size scale; then move the latter round till the straight edge at the top is parallel with the upper edge of the cloth, and dot at figure 2 on the lower edge of the scale.

Place the pattern shown in Fig. 3 so that the point 2 shall touch the dot 2 just made, and the line D touching the shoulder-line at 7, and draw a line to shape the arm-size.

Measure the length of the waist under the arm, from 2 arm-size eight inches; then the length of the front from the neck-size twelve inches, and add one and one-half inch to obtain the proper slope at the waist, and make a dot.

Next place the front-waist scale F, Fig. 4, with the square end one-half inch from the front edge of the cloth, and touching the dots made for length of waist. Draw a line to the point marked 25 on the front-waist scale for the size of waist.

Then slip the scale up until the straight upper edge touches the figure 2 on arm-size, with the square end of the scale straight with the edge of the cloth, and dot at 3 and 3% on the lower side or back-waist scale tor the upper points of the darts.

Place the dart-point on the end of the waistscale pattern, on the first dot at 3, and draw a line around to shape the dart, which shall be three-fourths of an inch from the hem at the waist-line; Draw the second dart in the same manner, leaving a space of threefourths of an inch between them at the waist.

Add the width of the two darts to the waistline, from the point 25, marked for the size of waist.

If properly drafted the waist-line should,

with this addition, reach the point 8, measured for length of waist under the arm.

Place the line marked 2 on the dart-point on the point 2 on the lower end of the armsize, with the line F touching the end of the waist-line, and draw a line to shape the seam under the arm, allowing one inch for the seam.

To obtain the proper slope for the basque at the hip, measure straight down from the end of the waist-line four inches, and out at right angles two and one-half inches, and make a dot.

A line drawn from the point 8, at the end of the waist-line, through this dot, will give the proper slope, and may be of any desired length.

Measure the length of the basque below the waist in front, place the end of the long rule on the front edge of the cloth, touching the dots for length of basque, and dot at 3 and 28 on the back-waist scale, for the position of the lower darts, and draw them in with the straight edge of the rule.

To draft the back of the basque, place line Kthe back-scale. shown in Fig. 2-as far from the edge of the cloth as will allow for a seam and the proper slope at the bottom of the basque, and dot at figure 3 on the neck, and at 7 on the shoulder-form, to obtain the proper shape of shoulder, and then dot at 15 for the width of the back.

Move the scale around to the dots and shape the shoulder. Shape the neck with the neckscale.

Place the point of the back-waist scale, Fig. 4, on the point at 7 on the shoulder, with the scale touching the point 15, and draw a line connecting the two points, to shape the back arm-size.

Next measure the length of the back waist from the line drawn at the neck sixteen inches, and the length of the waist under the arm eight inches. Now place the back-waist scale with the square end one inch over the line drawn for back-seam, with its lower edge touching the points at 16 and 8, and draw a line to 25, for the size of the back-waist.

Shape the back-seam under the arm with the dart-point. the same as in drafting the basque-front.

Make a dot half-way between the upper and lower ends of the back arm-size, and another at the waist-line one inch from the back-seam.

Place the point 2 on the back side-form, at the dot in middle of the arm -size, letting the line E touch the dot made at the waist, and draw a line to shape the side-form.

Measure fourteen inches down and nine inches out, to obtain the proper slope for the basque-skirt, adding seams to the sideforms.

Measure the back the same as the front, to get the proper slope for the basque under the arm, from the waist-line four inches down, and two and one-half out.

This rule will make basques of any length.

Children are measured in the same manner, using the same scales, with the exception of the neck-size and arm-size scales, which are replaced by the small ones shown in Fig. 5.

All seams are allowed outside of the measure.

Having thus fully described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-- The set of graduated and perforated patterns herein described, and illustrated by Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 of the drawings, adapted for use in cutting ladies and childrens garments.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

MRS. MARGARET HARRISON.

Witnesses:

T. S. SILvIs, JAMES Fmsr.

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