US1815298A - Manufacture of shoes - Google Patents

Description

July 21, 1931. G. GODDU 1,815,298

MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Original Filed July 29, 1927 Patented July 21, 1931 en STATES GEORGE GODDU, 0F WINCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR, BY MESNE ASSIGN- BIENTS, TO THE LITTLEWAY PROCESS COIlIPANY, OF BOSTON, MIASSACHUSETTS, A

CORIPORATEON OF MASSACHUSETTS MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Original application filed July 29, 1927, Serial No. 209,299. Divided: and'this application filed- January 21,

1930. Serial This invention relates to the manufacture of shoes, and more particularly to that stage of shoe manufacture in which the upper is pulled or shaped in conformity to the conatom of the last and is fastened to a sole or insole on the last, this application being a division of a copending application, Serial No. 209,299, filed on July 29, 1927. The invention is herein illustrated by reference to the lastin of an upper successively in different locations along the edge of the shoe bottom, and also by reference to the manufacture of shoes of that type in which the ma 1'- gin of the upper is lasted in substantially ra-llel relation to the outer or bottom face 0. an insole preparatory to the fastening of an outsole directly to the lasted margin, for example, by through-and-through stitches penetrating both the out-sole and the insole. it is to be understood, however, that in these and other respects the invention in itsmore general aspects is not limited to the illustrativc disclosure.

ln Letters Patent No. 1=,74l2,501,, granted on J January 7,1930,upon a copending application,

Serial No. 72%,135, filed on July 3, 1924, I disclosed and claimed a novel method of making shoes such, for example, as those, of the abeve-mentioned type, whereby the upper was :fllbjGCtell to tension or lasting strain and while held under strain was fastened to the insole in each lasting location by a fastening,

shown as a staple, anchored by curvature,

within the body of the insole instead of by clinching it on any surface of the work.

ldore particularly, in accordance with that disclosure, the legs of each staple were deflected in planes transverse to the cross-bar in the driving operation, by engaging them at the same side of the work from which the f staple was driven, to cause them to follow curved paths in the insole. The present invention provides a method whereby an up-' per is subjected to strain or tension and'whlle anchored by curvature in the same general. manner disclosed in the above-mentioned Letters Patent and so an )llGCl, having regard especially to the direction of the strainon the upper, as to afford. particularly effective inover the last and its margin laid inwardly over the insole under lasting strain, and while it is held under strain it is fastened by driving a staple through it and into the insole with the cross-bar of the staple extending lengthwise of the edge of the insole and by so deflecting the legs of the staple as to cause them to follow curved paths leading inwardly away from the edge of the insole to anchor them. lVith the staple applied in this manner, the pull of the margin of the upper thereon in a direction outwardly toward the edge of the insole only tends to turn the staple about the axis of curvature of its legs in the same direction in which the legs were deflected in the insole, so that special insurance is afforded that the upper will be held securely against loss of tension. Preferably, as illustrated, the fastening or staple is driven by force applied in a direction inclined outwardly toward the edge of the insole while being deflected or curved as about described.

The novel method will now be more particularly explained by reference to the accompanying drawings and thereafter pointed out in the claims. The drawings illustrate the practice of the method by the aid of 0perat-in instrunicntalities wiich are part of :1 machine organii tween them;

Fig. 5 is a perspective view of a portion of a shoe lasted by the method of thisinvention; and

Fig. 6 is a sectional view of a portion of a instrumentalitiesas positioned in Fig. 3 and illustrating more fully the relation beinc completed shoe of the through-and-through sewed type, illustrating the relation of the upper-fastening staples to the outs-ole stitches.

The drawings illustrate the side-lasting of a shoe of the above-mentioned type, which includes an insole at having a plane outer or bottom face and upper materials Z), hereinafter referred to inclusively as the upper. Prior to the side-lasting operation, if the usual procedure is followed, the upper will have been pulled over and fastened at the toe positions for the lasting of the different portions of the upper with one side thereof in engagement with an edge rest 10 and with the outer face of the insole in engagement with a sole rest 12. Nith the shoe thus posi ti-oned, the upper is pulled by a gripper 14; shown in full lines in Fig. l, but in dotted lines in Figs. 1, 2 and 3, since in the lastmentioned figures the plane of section behind the location of the gripper. it will be understood that the ripper pul s the upper first in a direction heightwise of the last and 1 then in a direction inwardl I from the ed 'e of the last bottom over the outer face of the insole shown in Fig. 1. Thereafter the margin of the upper, while herd yieldingly by the gripper, is laid inwardly over the insole and pressed down uponthe outer or bottom fa e of the latter under lasting strain by the action of overlaying and fastening means comprising a staple-guiding nozzle 16 and a staple deflector 18, as illustrated in Fig. 2, these parts being movable in the overlaying operation in a direction inclined downwardly toward the outer face of the insole and inwardly away from the edge of the latter. After the parts have arrived substantially in t ie positions indicated in Fig. 2, the upper is released by the gripper, and its margin is then held in substantially parallel relation to the outer face of the insole by the overlaying and fastening means while a staple is driven to fasten the upper to the insole.

The upper-fastening staple, havin initially straight legs, is driven by a driver 20 which is movable in a guideway in the staple nozzle 16 in a direction inclined downwardly and outwardly toward the edge of the insole, or outwardly toward that side of the shoe which is nearest to the fastening point. The staple is thus driven with its cross-bar extending lengthwise of the edge of the insole, and as it is driven its legs are engaged and deflected or curved by the deflector 18, the lower end of which occupies a position opposite the end of the staple-gniijling passage in the nozzlelG for engaging the staple legs at the same side of the work from which the staple is driven, i. e., without the presence of any portion of the work between the deflector and the nozzle. The deflector 18 is provided with grooves, one of which is shown in dotted lines at 22 (Fi 1), for guiding and deflecting the staple legs in planes transverse to the crossbar, and different portions of the legs are thus deflected or curved successively in the driving operation before the different respective portions enter the shoe. it will be observed that, while the staple is driven by force applied in a di rection inclined outwardly toward the edge of the insole as hereinbefore described, the staple legs are deflected in such paths that they enter the shoe in directions approximately perpendicular to the outer face of the insole and then follow curved paths leading inwardly away from the edge of the insole, the degree of curvature of the legs being preferably such that their ends return toward the outer face of the insole without penetrating its inner face. It will thus be seen that the legs of the staple are curved substanti ally throughout their lengths, and that after the staple has been driven the ends of the legs are located farther inwardly from the edge of the insole than the cross-bar.

It will be understood that after these operations have been performed in one location, the shoe is moved to a different position and the same operations are repeated. In this manner the sides of the shoe are lasted progressively, the upper being fastened initially, yet permanently, in each lasting location without loss of tension between the upperpulling and the fastening operations. By reference to Fig. l it will be seen that the pull is appliedtotheuppcr bythe gripper l lin a location somewhat displaced lengthwise of the edge of the shoe bottom from the location where the staple is driven. iiccordingly, the staple isnot driven in a location directly in line with the gripper, although driven through a portion of the upper which is subjected tension by the gripper. It will be understood that this arrangement of the parts is for purposes of convenience, and that the invention is not limited to the illustrated relation between the location of the fastening and the location where the pull is applied to the upper.

It will be evident that when the staples are driven and anchored in the manner above described, with their legs curved inwardly away from the edge of the insole, the pull or strain of the lasted upper thereon, which principally in a direction outwardly toward the edge of the insole, only tends to turn each staple about the axis of curvature of its legs in the same direction in which the were so that the staples maintain a firm hold o-n the upper .by the security of their anchorage in the insole.

Fig. 6 illustrates, in a shoe of the throughand-through sewed type, the relation of the staples s, driven and anchored as hereinbefore described, to the seam t whereby the outsole c is secured to the upper and insole. It will be evident that when the staples are driven and anchored in the manner illustrated, they may be so applied as to penetrate the upper in locations nearer the edge of the insole, without danger that their legs will interfere with the out-sole stitches, than if the legs were deflected outwardly toward the edge of the insole to anchor them.

WVhile the invention is illustrated and described with particular reference to the manufacture of shoes having an outsole and an insole in the relation disclosed, the invention in various aspects, as hereinbefore stated, is not limited in utility to the manufacture of that particular type of shoe, and the term sole is accordingly used in the claims in a comprehensive sense to include both theinsole of some types of shoes and also that part which in shoes of other types may be the outsole or the only sole with which the shoe is provided. It is to be further understood that in the claims the expression edge of the sole is used for convenience to designate that por tion of the edge which is nearest to the location where the fastening is inserted, and that the expression bottom face of the sole is used with reference to that face which is outermost at the time of the lasting of the shoe, regardless of its position in the completed shoe.

The lasting means herein disclosed is claimed in another divisional application, Serial No. 422,453 filed on Jan. 21, 1930; and the method of upper-fastening per se and the product of the method are claimed in still.

another divisional application, Serial No. 422,452 filed on Jan. 21, 1980.

Having described theinvention and set forth fully how the novel method may be practiced, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. That improvement in methods of lasting shoes which consists in conforming an unlastcd portion of an upper to the shape of a last and laying its margin inwardly over a sole on the last, and while holding the upper in lasted position fastening it initially, yet

permanently, to the sole by a metallic fastening anchored within the body of the sole by curvature thereof in a direction away from lasted portion of an upper to the shape of a A: -last andv laying its margin inwardly over a sole on the last, and while holding the upper in lasted position fastening it initially, yet permanently, to the sole by a staple applied with its cross-bar extending lengthwise of the edge of the sole and its legs anchored within the body of the sole hy-c-urt 'ature thereof in paths leading inwardly 'away from said edge.

3. That improvement in methods of last inig shoes which consists in pulling an upper over a last ha'ving a sole thereon, pressing the upper against the sole, and while thus pressing the upper fastening it initially, yet permanently, to the sole by a metallic fasteningapplied at a distance from the edge of the sole and curved substantially throughout its lengthin such a direction that its entering end is displacedinwardly from the edge of the sole relatively to its, upper-engaging portion. y

i. That improvement in methods of making shoes which con ists in pulling an upper over a last having a sole thereon, pressing the upper against the sole, and while thus pressthe u; ac-r fastening it to the sole by a st 7 .7 its cross-bar extending lengthwise of the'edge of the sole and its legs curved away from the edgeof the sole to anchor them.

5. lnat i mrovement in methods of lastingshoeswhich consists in conforming an unlasted portion of an upper to the shape of a last and laying its margin inwardly over a sole on the last,,then while holding the upper in lasted position driving a metallic fastening through the upper and into the sole in a location at a distance from the edge'of the sole to fasten the upper initially, y-et' permanently, to thesole,.a11d'hy engaging different portions of said fastening successively in the driving operation, before the different respective portions enter the sole, deflecting the fastening in a curved path leading inwardly away from the edge of the sole to anchor it in the sole.

6. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in pulling an upper over a last having 'a solcthoreon, pressing the upper against the sole, while thus pressing the upper driving a staple in a location at a distance from the edge of the sole with its crossbar extending lengthwise of said edge to fasten the u. yer and b en a in the le s of 3 Q b b D the-staple in the driving operation at the same side of the work from which the staple is driven curving them substantially throughout their lengths in directions such that they follow curvedp-aths leading inwardly away rom the edge of t-hesole to anchor them.

7.- That improvement in methods of making shoes whichconsists in pulling an upper over a last having a sole thereon, pressing the upper'uponthe bottom face of the sole, while thus pressing the upper driving astaple throughthe upper and into the sole with its cross-bar extending lengthwise of the edge of the sole to fasten the upper to said face, and

the sole, deflecting them in curved paths leading inwardly away from the edge of the sole by engaging different portions of the legs of to anchor them.

the staple successively in the driving operation, before the difierent respective portions enter the sole, deflecting them in curved paths leading inwardly away from the edge of the sole and reversely toward its bottom face to anchor them. a

8. That improvement in methods of mak ing shoes which consists in pulling an upper over a last and inwardly over a sole on the last, pressing the upper upon the bottom face of the sole, while thus pressing the upper driving a fastening by force applied in a direction inclined outwardly toward the edge of the sole to fasten the upper to the sole, and by engaging the fastening in the driving operation at the same side of the work from which it is driven deflecting it progressively in a curved path leading inwardly away from the edge of the sole to anchor it.

9. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in pulling an upper over a last and inwardly over a sole on the last, pressing the upper upon the bottom face of the sole, while thus pressing the upper driving a staple by force applied in a direction inclined outwardly toward the edge of the sole with the cross-bar of the staple extending lengthwise of said edge to fasten the upper to the sole, and by engaging different portions of the legs of the staple successively in the driving operation, before the diflerent respective portions enter the sole, deflecting them in curved paths leading inwardly away from the edge of the sole to anchor them.

10. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in pulling an upper over a last having a sole thereon, laying the upper upon the bottom face of the sole by pressure applied in a direction inclined inwardly away from the edge of the sole, driving a fastening by force applied in a direction inclined outwardly toward the edge of the sole to fasten the upper on said face, and by engaging the fastening in the driving operation at the same side of the work from which it is driven deflecting it in a curved path leading inwardly away from the edge of the sole to anchor it. I

11. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in pulling an upper over a last and inwardly over a sole on the last, laying the margin of the upper upon the bottom face of the sole by pressure applied in a direction inclined inwardly away from the edge of the sole, driving a staple by force applied in a direction inclined outwardly toward the edge of the sole with the crossbe r of the staple extending lengthwise of said edge to fasten the upper to the sole, and by engaging different portions of the legs of the staple successively in the driving operation, before the different respective portions enter In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

GEORGE GODDU.

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