US1894678A - Manufacture of shoes - Google Patents

Manufacture of shoes Download PDF

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US1894678A
US1894678A US362753A US36275329A US1894678A US 1894678 A US1894678 A US 1894678A US 362753 A US362753 A US 362753A US 36275329 A US36275329 A US 36275329A US 1894678 A US1894678 A US 1894678A
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shoe
toe
sole
margin
relation
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US362753A
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Fausse Joseph
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LITTLEWAY PROCESS CO
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LITTLEWAY PROCESS CO
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43DMACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
    • A43D9/00Devices for binding the uppers upon the lasts

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  • This invention relates to the manufacture of shoes, and more particularly to the hold ing or fastening of uppers in lasted relation to soles or insoles.
  • the term sole is frequently used hereinafter in a generic sense to designate that part against or over which the margin of the upper is'lasted, whether it be the insole of certain types of shoes or that part which in shoes of other types may be the outsole or the only sole with which the shoe is provided.
  • the invention is herein illustrated with particular reference to operations performed at the toe ends of shoes, but it is to be understood that it is not thus limited in its applicability.
  • An object of the invention is to hold or fasten an upper in lasted relation to a sole in sole in such manner as to produce improved results in the shaping of the marginal portion of the upper and its conformlty to the contour of the sole; and in one important aspect the invention provides a novel method of fastening an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole whereby the upper is held and shaped effectively under pressure applied in a direction he ghtwise of V the shoe.
  • a temporary retaining member or binder is applied to the upper over the marginal portion of the sole on a last and is pressed againstthe upper in direction ,7 toward the bottom face of the last, and a p in :luoing plurality of fastenings are then inserted in such relation to the retaining member as to secure it in position to maintain the pressure thus applied substantially throughout the length of that portion of the margin of thesole along which the pressure is applled.
  • an upper-retaining member formed to enage the margin of the upper continuously around the toe end of the shoe bottom, and
  • a wiper or wipers whereby the margin of the upper is first wiped into lasted relation to the sole, and as herein illustrated there are used for the purpose the toe-embracing Wipers of a bed-lasting machine, the fastenings being inserted in different locations along the edges of the wipers, as distinguished from locations beyond the ends of the wipers, While the wipers are holding the member in pressure-applying relation to the upper.
  • the member may be secured in proper aressureapplyin relation to the upper by fastenings of different kinds applied in various ways, it is contemplated that for the purpose in view there will preferably be used tacks so applied that their heads are in clamp-- ing relation to the member.
  • Such a member may be conveniently formed of sheet metal bent in the required shapeto provide a portion to face the bottom of the last and also an upstanding portion or flange; and it will be evident that such an upstanding portion or flange serves to increase the resistance of the member to bending stresses in directions heightwise of the shoe, so that by use of comparatively thin metal of suitable character the member as a whole may be rendered by the wiping faces of the wipers to force the member inwardly over the shoe bottom and to press it toward the bottom face of the last, and the fastening tacks are driven between the edges of the wipers and the upstanding flange into positions in which their heads are in clamping relation to the edge of the flange.
  • the forcing of the retaining member inwardly over the bottom of the shoe by the wipers serves to tighten the upper and to position its margin in proper relation to the sole; and for purposes of end lasting there is preferably utilized a member which is somewhat yieldable laterally of the shoe, and also resilient, so that it may be forced to some extent inwardly over the opposite side margins of the shoe bottom in addition to movement lengthwise of the shoe by the action of the wipers and when removed from the shoe will resume its initial shape.
  • the invention is applicable to the manufacture of shoes of various kinds, and it is herein illustrated as applied to the manufacture of shoes of a type in which the margin of the upper is last-ed in generally parallel relation to the outer face of an insole in preparation for the application of an outsole directly against the outer face of the margin of the upper, and also shoes of a type in which there is a lip or shoulder on the insole against which the margin. of the upper is lasted, such as welt shoes.
  • the retaining member while engaging a substantial portion of the width of the margin of the upper, is applied at a distance from the edge of the upper, so that portions of the margin where the lasting wrinkles are most prominent and also where any excess of cement will be located after the upper has been wiped inwardly over the insole are not pressed down on the insole but are left in condition to be conveniently trimmed preparatory to the laying of the outsole.
  • box toe stiffening material is especially appropriate in the manufactureof shoes having lipped insoles, such as welt shoes, and it will be understood that in making shoes of that type treatment in accordance with the method of this invention serves to shape the upper in a very effective and satisfactory manner in the angle between the margin or feather of the insole and the lip, the different angularly related parts of the upper-retaining member engaging respectively portions of the upper that are over the feather of the insole and are against the lip and maintaining firm pressure on these different portions of the upper until the stiffening material has hardened or until the upper has otherwise set in lasted shape. In the manufacture of welt shoes this provides a very satisfactory condition for the sewing of a tight inseam.
  • the invention further provides a novel upper-retaining device or member so constructed as to permit and facilitate its attaclnnent to a shoe in the manner and for the purposes described.
  • the member herein shown, as already suggested, is provided with different angularly related portions arranged respectively to face the mar ginal portion of the sole or the bottom of the last and to be positioned in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom; and. in that portion of the member which faces the bottom of the last there are provided a plurality of holes so arranged as to permit fastenings, such as tacks, to be driven through it and into the shoe between the edges of the wipers and the upstanding portion of the member while the wipers are holding the member pressed against the shoe.
  • the tacks To indicate the locations of these holes and to permit the tacks to be readily driven in front of the edges of the wipers without any retractive movement of the wipers after they have forced the member inwardly over the shoe bottom by engagement of their edges with its upstanding portion, the latter provided, in the construction shown, with a plurality of tack-receiving recesses in line with the holes.
  • these recesses are conveniently afforded by corrugations in the upstandin flange portion of the member;
  • such a construction also provides at the upper surface or edge of the upstanding portion of the member extended seats arranged to be engaged by substantial portions of the heads of the tacks to clamp the nember down upon the shoe bottom.
  • the upstanding portion of the member presents a face inclined outwardly over that portion w ich faces the margin of the sole, which facilitates the formation of recesses of substantial depth arranged to extend in generally perpendicular relation to the shoe bottom.
  • Another advantage in this construction is that the wipers engaging the outwardly inclined face of the member are prevented from completely covering the tack-receiving holes which are preferably located approximately at the apex of the angle between the different portions of the member.
  • Fig. 1 is a perspective view illustrating the wiping of the toe portion of an upper into lasted position by the use of the toe-embracing wipers of a bed-lasting machine prior to the fastening of the upper by the method of this invention, the shoe illustrated being one of a type in which the margin of the upper is lasted in generally parallel relation to the outer face of an insole;
  • F i g. 2 is a similar view illustrating how an upper-retaining member is applied in accordance with this invention around the toe end of the shoe bottom and fastened while the wipers are holding it pressed against the shoe, a portion of one of the wipers being broken away;
  • F ig. 3 is a sectional View on an enlarged scale through a portion of the shoe and one of the wipers with the parts in the same relation as illustrated in Fig. 2;
  • Fig. 4 is a perspective view of the toe of the shoe withthe upper-retaining member fastened thereon;
  • Fig. 5 is a, sectional view showing how the upper of the illustrated shoe is fastened in lasted position along the sides at the rear of the toe end;
  • Fig. 6 is a perspective view of the toe of the shoe after the upper-retaining member has been removed and after the margin of the upper has been trimmed preparatory to the laying of the outsole over the insole and against the outer face of the margin of the upper;
  • Fig. 7 is a perspective View of the upper retaining member detached
  • Fig.8 is a perspective view of the toe of a welt shoe illustrating the use of the upperretaining member shown in Fig. 7 for fasten- I ing an upper in lasted position in the angle between the margin or feather a lipped insole;
  • Fig. 9 is a cross-sectional View illustrating further the relation of the upper-retaining member to the parts of a shoe of the type shown in Fig. 8 and illustrating also the use of the wipers in applying the member to a shoe of this type;
  • Fig. 10 is a perspective view of the toe .of the welt shoe after the trimming of the margin of the upper and the removal of the upper-retaining member.
  • the shoe shown in Figs. 1 to 6, inclusive comprises an insole a, mounted on a lastb, and an upper c the margin of which extending beyond the edge of the insole is lasted in generally parallel relation to the outer face of the insole, this type of shoe being one in which an outsole is applied and secured against the outer face of the margin of the upper.
  • the margin of the upper along the sides of the shoe, between the toe and heel end portions is fastened in lasted relation to the insole by staples s which are driven and curved in such manner as to anchor them without penetrating the inner face of the insole, in accordance with the method disclosed in Letters Patent No. 1,815,296, granted on July 21, 1931 upon an application of George Goddu.
  • the upper 0 may include as usual different layers of material, comprising a lining inside of the upper leather and at the toe also box toe stiffener between the leather and the lining.
  • the marginal portions of the lining and of the box toe stiffener are preferably cut away so that these parts overlap only the extreme edge of the outer face of the insole, as shown, and the upper leather is, therefore, secured directly to the insole by the cement.
  • the machine For operating 011 a shoe of the type shown in Figs. 1 to 6, inclusive, the machine is provided with a toe band 16 for embracing the toe end of the shoe and for clamping the upper to. the end and side faces of the last prior to and during the overwiping operation of the wipers 14.
  • the toe lasting means comprising the wipers and toe band, is movable heightwise of the shoe by the operation of a treadle (not shown), and that by such movement the wipers 14 are utilized to wipe the upper heightwise of the toe before wiping it inwardly over the insole.
  • the wipers may be forced downwardly to apply pressure heightwise of the shoe to the margin of the upper over the insole.
  • the wipers are preferably operated to wipe the upper inwardly over the insole in the first instance before cement is applied.
  • the wipers are retracted, the lining and the toe stiffener are trimmed back as previously described and cement is applied as required, and the wipers are then again advanced and closed over a portion at least of the width of the margin of the upper. It is then necessary to T fasten the upper about the toe in order to hold it until the cement has set.
  • the present invention in one of its important aspects, accordingly provides a method and means whereby greatly improved results are obtained in the fastening of the toe portion of the upper until the cement has set.
  • the toe wipers 14 are lifted and partially retracted after they have wiped the margin of the upper inwardly the second time as above described, and the operator then inserts between them and the upper an upper-retaining member formed to extend continuously around the toe along the margin of the shoe bottom. after which the wipers are again advanced and closed to force this member inwardly over the shoe bottom both lengthwise and laterally of the shoe and are operated to press it against the upper in a direction heightwise of the shoe.
  • an upper-retaining member formed to extend as a band or binder around the toe end of the shoe bottom and having normally a curvature approximating that of the edge of the toe portion of the shoe bottom for convenience in applying the member to the shoe, this member being formed of sheet metal and having different portions 18 and 20 in angular relation to each other arranged respectively to face the marginal portion of the insole, or the bottom of the last, in engagement with the upper and to be positioned in upstanding relation to the shoe bot tom.
  • the portion 20 of the member thus serves as a flange adapted to be engaged by the edges of the wipers to force the member inwardly over the shoe bottom both length- .vise of the shoe and also to some extent latorally of the shoe while positioning it in proper relation to the toe end of the shoe, the member being preferably somewhat yieldable and resilient in directions laterally of the shoe to permit this action at the sides of the toe, and the portion 18 provides means adapted to be engaged by the wiping faces of the wipers to press the member down upon the shoe bottom.
  • the forcing of the member inwardly over the bottom of the shoe and downwardly by the wipers serves further to tighten the upper over the last and to press its margin into proper relation to the insole.
  • the upstandii'ig flange portion 20 of the member serves to increase the resistance of the member as a whole to bending stresses in directions heightwise of the shoe, and although forn ed of comparatively thin sheet metal the member is thus rendered substantially rigid in directions heightwise of the shoe so as to maintain the required pressure on the upper throughout its whole length when secured to the shoe by fastenings inserted at considerable distances from one another.
  • Vhile the upper-retaining member is held pressed 'iiwardly over the shoe bottom and downwardly toward the insole by the wipers in the manner above de cribed, it is fastened, as herein illustrated, by driving into the bottom of the shoe a plurality of tacl s t through holes provided in the portion 18 of the member in locations approximately at the apex of the angle between the different portions 18 and 20, the taclrs being driven in locations between the edges of the wipers and the upstanding portion 20.
  • the tacks are driven into such positions that their heads overlap the edge of the upstanding flange portion
  • the tacks may be driven in different locations along the edges of the wipers within the range of choice provided by the different holes 22, and the locations of these holes also may be varied as desired. is herein illustrated, two ta ks are driven at each side of the toe, the two foremost tacks being located near the end of the toe and the others being located farther rearwardly at the sides of the toe.
  • the flange 20 as herein illustrated is soformed as to provide laterally open tack-receiving recesses in front of the edges of the wipers in alinement with the holes 22, these recesses being afforded by corrugations 24- in this portion of the ember.
  • the flange 9.0 is so formed as to incline outwardly over that portion 18 of the member which faces the margin of the insole, and this renders it practicable to provide corrugations which are especially pronounced at the upper edge of the flange 20, with tack-receiving recesses extending in substantially perpendicular relation to the shoe bottom in line with the holes
  • the recesses provided by the corrugations 2% indicate to the operator the locations of the holes and further serve to guide the shanks of the tacks inserted in front of the edges of the wipers.
  • the corrugations provide at the upper edge of the flange 20 curved seats arranged to be engaged by substantial pertions of the heads of the tacks to clamp the retaining member down upon the shoe bottom.
  • the outward inclination of the flange 20 in respect to the portion 18 of the member has the further advantage that it serves by engagement with the wipers to prevent the latter from completely covering the holes 22 located, as h-ereinbefore described, approximately at the apex of the angle between the different portions of the member.
  • portion 18 of the upper-retaining member shown not only engages the upper continuously along the margin of the shoe bottom but also engages a substantial portion of the width of the margin of the upper overlying the insole, so that pressure is applied to the upperover a considerable area to hold it in a substantially flat condition and also to insure an extended and effective bond between the upper and the insole by the action of the cement.
  • the member is so formed and positioned that it engages the margin of the upper only at a substantial distance from the edge of the latter, so that portions of the margin where the wrinkles produced by the gathering effect of the wipers are necessarily most prominent and also where any excess of cement will be located after the upper has been wiped inwardly over the insole are not pressed down but are leftin such condition as to be conveniently trimmed in the manner customary heretofore to provide a substantially flat surface to receive the outsole.
  • the tacks are withdrawn and the member is removed, after which the upper-trimming operation is performed by means such as is customarily utilized for this purpose.
  • the fastening of the upper-retaining memher to the shoe by tacks or like fastenings driven in clamping relation to the edge of the upstanding flan e 20 of the member is advantageous not only because the tacks may be readily driven and the member clamped thereby upon the shoe bottom while the wipers are holding it pressed against the shoe as hereinabove described, but also for the reason that tacks driven in that relation to the member may be readily removed without damage to the member or to the shoe.
  • Figs. 8, 9 and 10 the invention is illustrated as applied to the manufacture of shoes of a type having an insole (Z provided with a lip 6 against which the margin of the upper is lasted, the particular shoe shown being a welt shoe.
  • an upper-retaining member or binder constructed as hereinbefore described is applied to the upper in the angle between the margin or feather and the lip or shoulder of the insole after the margin of the upper has been wiped into this angle and shaped in conformity to the feather and the lip by the toe-embracing wipers 14, and the wipers are then used in a manner substantially as hereinbefore described to force the member inwardly and down upon the feather of the insole and to hold it while the fastening tacks are driven.
  • the diiferent portions 18 and 20 of the member engage respectively portions of the margin of the upper which are over the feather and against the lip of the insole, the portion 18 extending outwardly as far as the edge of the insole all around the toe, and the tacks serve to clamp the member down over the feather while also holding it pressed inwardly toward the lip, so that the margin of the upper is maintained in the shape best adapted for the sewing of a tight inseam until it has set in that shape.
  • box toe stiffening material may be availed of to maintain the margin of the upper in the shape acquired after the upper-retaining member is removed, although the utility of the invention as aplied to the manufacture of shoes having ipped insoles is not dependent upon the presence of box toe stiffening material.
  • the upstanding margin of the upper about the toe may be conveniently trimmed while the upper-retaining member is on the shoe by means such as customarily utilized heretofore for that purpose.
  • Fig. 10 shows the toe end of the shoe after it has been thus trimmed and after the upper-retaining member has been removed preparatory to the welting operation.
  • the upper-retaining member shall have, when applied to the shoe, a lengthwlse contour corresponding substantially to that of the edge of that portion of the shoe bottom over which it is applied, experience has shown that it is not necessary to provide differently shaped members for all different sizes or styles of shoes. This is notably the fact in operating on shoes of the type illustrated in Figs. 1 to 6, inclusive, where members of the same shape may be used satisfactorily on shoes of a comparatively wide range of sizes and styles. It is also to be understood that while the upper-retaining member is herein described as made of sheet metal, it may be made of other material satisfactory for the purpose in view.
  • the upper-retaining device or binder hereinbefore described may be regarded as comprising arms arranged in divergent relation to each other to extend along the sides of the toe and connected by a permanently curved portion arranged to extend around the end of the toe, and as comprising further a substantially plane member 18 of continuous or uninterrupted extent all around the toe and a flange 20 arranged in upstanding relation to the plane member.
  • That improvement in methods of fastening an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole on a last which consists in applying to the overlasted upper over the marginal portion of the sole a temporary retaining member so formed as to be substantially rigid in directions heightwise of the shoe and pressing said member against the upfper in a direction toward the bottom face 0 the last, and while holding the member thus pressed against the upper driving a plurality of fastenings in locations along the same portion of the margin of the shoe bottom where the holding pressure is applied to said member and in such relation to said member as to secure it against any substantial pressure-relaxing movement heightwise of the shoe when it is released from the pres sure applied thereto.
  • That improvement in methods of has tening an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole on a last which consists in applying to the overlasted upper over the marginal portion of the sole a temporary retaining member formed to extend along the margin of the sole and having different portions in angular relation to each other arranged respectively to face the bottom of the last and to provide a flange in l upstanding relation to the shoe bottom, pressing said member against the upper by engaging that portion which faces the bottom of the last, and while holding the member thus pressed against the upper inserting 1 fastenings in clamping relation to the edge of said upstanding flange to hold the member in pressure-applying relation to the upper.
  • That improvement in methods of fastening an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole which consists applying a temporary retaining member to the upper over the marginal portion of the sole and by applyin force heightwise of the shoe to wiper or alast-ing machine pressing said member against the upper, and while holding said member in pressure-applying relation to the upper by the wiper inserting a plurality of fastenings in different locations along the edge of the wiper to fasten the member in that relation to the upper.
  • That improvement in methods of lasting shoes which consists in wiping an upper inwardly over the margin of a sole on a last by use of a wiper of a lasting machine, then inserting between the wiper and the upper a retaining member extending along the margin of the shoe bottom and by use of the wiper pressing said member against the up per in a direction toward the bottom face of the last, and while holding the member pressed against the upper by the wiper driving a plurality of fastenings in different lo cations along the edge of the wiper into positions to clamp said member down upon the margin of the upper;
  • That improvement in methods of fastening an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole which consists i applying to the upper a retaining member having a portion arranged to be engaged by the edge of a wiper of a lasting machine and by use of such a wiper forcing the member inwardly over the shoe bottom and also pressing it against the upper heightwise of the shoe, and then without retracting the wiper fastening said member to the shoe in different loca ions along and adjacent to the edge of the wiper.
  • That improvement in methods of fastoning an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole which consists in applying to the upper over the marginal portion of the sole a retaining member having different portions in angular relation to each other arranged respectively to face the marginal portion of the sole and to be positioned in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom and by use of a wiper of a lasting machine in engagement with said member in 'ly of the shoe and pressing it the shoe'bottom and while holding the memthe angle between its different portions forcing the member inwardly over the shoe bottom and downwardly toward the sole, and while holding the member pressed against the shoe by the wiper inserting a plurality of fastenings between the edge of the wiper and the upstanding portion of said member in clamping relation to the edge of said upstanding portion to fasten the member to the shoe.
  • That improvement in methods of fastoning an upper in lasted'position over the marginal portion of a sole on a last around an end of the shoe oottom which consists in applying to the upper over the marginal portion of the sole a retaining member formed to engage the upper around the end of the shoe bottom and substantially rigid in directions heightwise of the shoe and by use of end-embracing wipers of a lasting machine pressing said member against the upper in a direction toward the bottom face of the last, and while holding the member pressed against the upper by the wipers fastening it near the end and also in other locations at the sides of that portion of the shoe bottom along which the edges of the wipers extends in su 1h manner as to hold it from any substantial pressure-relaxing movement heightwise of the shoe when it is released from the pressure of the wipers.
  • That improvement in methods of fastening an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole around an end of a shoe bottom which consists in applying to the upper over the marginal portion of the sole a retaining member formed to extend around the end of the shoe bottom and to be engaged by the edges of end-embracing wipers of a lasting machine and by use of such wipers forcing said member inwardly over the shoe bottom both lengthwise and lateraldown upon her in pressure-applying relation to the shoe 'by the wipers inserting a plurality of fastenings'in different locations along the edges of the wipers into positions to clamp said member toward the marginal portion. of the sole.
  • That improvement in methods of fastening an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole around an end of a shoe bottom which consists in applying to the upper over the marginal portion of the sole a retaining member formed to engage the upper around the end of the shoe bottom and having different portions in angular relation to each other arranged respectively to face the marginal portion of the sole and to be positioned in upstading relation to the shoe bottom and by use of end-embracing wipers of a lasting machine in engagement with the different portions of said member forcing it inwardly over the shoe bottom both lengthwise and laterally of the shoe and also pressing the toes of shoes which consists in wiping the margin of an upper about the toe of a last inwardly over the marginal portion of a sole on the last by use of toe-embracing wipers of a lasting machine, retracting the wipers and inserting between them and the shoe an upper-retaining member so formed as to be engaged both by the wiping faces and the edges of the wipers, then by use of the wipers forcing said member inwardly
  • That improvement in methods of last ing the toes of shoe which consists in wiping the margin of an upper about the toe of a last inwardly over the marginal portion of a sole on' the last by use of toe-embracing wipers of a lasting machine, retracting the wipers and inserting between them and the shoe an upper-retaining member formed to extend around the toe end of the shoe bottom with a portion thereof between the wipers and the marginal portion of the sole and another portion upstanding infront of the edges ofthe wipers, then by use'of the wipers forcing said member inwardly over the shoe bottom both lengthwise and laterally of the shoe and also toward the bottom face of the last, and while holding the member in pressure-applying relation to the upper by the wipers driving fastenings in clamping relation to the upper edge'of said upstanding portion of the member including one or more fastenings near the end and others farther rearwardly at the sides of the toe to maintain it in pressure-applying relation to the upper.
  • That improvement in methods of fastening an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole on a last which consists in applying to the overlasted upper over the marginal portion of the sole a retaining member having a flange inupstanding relation to the shoe bottom, pressing said re-r taining member upon the upper in a direction toward the bottom face of the last by engagement with a portion of the member other than said flange, and while holding the member thus pressed upon the upper clamping it upon the upper in a direction toward the bottom face of the last by engagement with the edge of said flange.
  • That improvement in methods of fastening an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole on a last which consists in applying to the overlasted upper over the marginal portion of the sole a retaining member having a flange in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom, pressing said retaining member upon the upper in a direction toward the bottom face of the last by engagement with a portion of the member other than said flange, and while holding the member thus pressed upon the upper inserting a plurality of headed fastenings into the shoe' bottom with their heads overlapping the edge of said flange in clamping relation to said edge to hold the member pressed down upon the shoe bottom.
  • That improvement in methods of fastening an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole which consists in applying a retaining member to the upper over the marginal portion of the sole and pressing it down upon the shoe bottom, and then fastening said member to the shoe by driving tacks each with a portion only of the lower face of its head in clamping relation to said member at the side of the tack that is farthest from the edge of the shoe bottom; 7
  • That improvement in methods of fastening an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole on a last which consists in applying to'the overlasted upper over the marginal portion of the sole a retaining member having a portion thereof in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom, pressing said member upon the upper in a direction toward the bottom face of the last by engagement with a portion of the member other than said upstanding portion, and while holdin the member thus pressed upon the upper drlving tacks at the side of said upstanding portion which is nearest the edge of the shoe bottom with the lower faces of their heads partially overlapping and in clamping relation to said upstanding portion to hold the member pressed down upon the shoe bottom.
  • That improvement in methods of fastening an upper in lastedrposition over the marginal portion of a sole about the toe end of a shoe which consists in pressing down upon the overlasted upper over the marginal portion of the sole a retaining member formed to extend as a band around the toe end of the shoe bottom and having a flange arranged in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom, and then securing said member in position to press the upper down upon the sole by inserting one or more fastenings near the end of the toe and other fastenings farther rearwardly at the sides of the toe in clamping relation to the edge of said flange.
  • That improvement in methods of making shoes in which cement is utilizedto secure the toe portions of the uppers in lasted relation to the soles which consists in applying upper-holding cement at the toe of a shoe on a last, wiping the margin of the toe portion of the upper into lasted relation to a sole on the last by the use of toe-embracing wipers. then by use of said wipers forcing inwardly over the bottom of the shoe and also toward the bottom face of the last an upperretaining member engaging the margin of the upper about the toe, clamping said memwas her in osition to maintain the pressure thus applie on the upper toward the bottom face of the last all around the toe when the wipers are withdrawn, and after the cement has set removing said member from the shoe.
  • That improvement in methods of fastening an upper in lasted position in the angle between the margin of a sole and a lip or shoulder on the sole which consists in applying to the upper in said angle a temporary retaining member having a portion formed to extend uninterruptedly along the edge of the shoe bottom and arranged to face the margin of the sole and an upstanding portion in angular relation to the first-named portion arranged to face the lip or shoulder of the sole. v and inserting a plurality of fastenings in clamping relation to the edge of said upstanding portion to hold said member in operative position on the shoe.
  • That improvement in methods of fastening an upper in lasted position in the angle between the margin of a sole and a lip or shoulder on the sole which consists in applying to the upper in said angle a temporary retaining member having a portion arranged to face the margin of the sole and an upstanding portion in angular relation to said first-named portion arranged to face the lip or shoulder of the sole, then by use of a wiper of a lasting machine engaging the member in the angle between said different portions pressing said member inwardly toward the lip or shoulder and also toward the margin of the sole, and while holding said member pressed against the upper by the wiper driving through the member in locations between the edge of the wiper and said upstanding portion a plurality of headed fastenings into positions to clamp the member against the shoe by engagement of their heads with the upper edge of said upstanding portion of the member.
  • That improvement in methods of fastening the toe portion of an upper in lasted position in the angle between the margin of a sole and a lip or shoulder on the sole which consists in applying to the upper in said angle a retaining member so formed as to be sub stantially rigid in directions heightwise of the shoe and to extend outward substantially as far as the edge of the sole uninterruptedly all around the toe, and fastening said member to the shoe by clamping it toward the margin of the sole near the end of the toe and farther rearwardly at the sides of the toe.
  • That improvement in methods of fastening the toe portion of an upper in lasted position over the margin of a sole and against a lip or shoulder on the sole which consists in applying to the upper about the toe in the angle between the margin and the lip or shoulder of the sole a binder having a portion arranged to face the margin of the sole in uninterrupted engagement with the upper all around the toe and another portion in angular relation to first-named portion or u ranged to face the lip or shoulder of the solo in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom and driving a plurality of fastenings including one or more fastemngs near the end of the toe and other fastenings farther rearwardly at the sides of the toe in clamping relation to the edge of the upstanding portion of the binder to clamp the binder in pressureapplying relation to the upper.
  • a device for holding an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole comprising an upper-retaining member formed to engage the upper along the margin of the sole and having a continuous substantially plane portion adapted to be pressed against the upper by a wiper of a lasting machine, said member having a plurality of holes extending through its plane portion in such locations as to permit fastenings to be inserted along the edge of the wiper to 3 fasten the member in pressure-applying relation to the upper while the wiper is pressing the member against the upper.
  • a device for holding an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a solo on a last comprising an upper-retaining member formed to engage the upper along the margin of the sole and adapted to be pressed against the upper by a wiper of a lasting machintn said m ember having a portion thereof arranged to extend in angular relation to the bottom face of the last in front of the edge of the wiper and having adjacent to that portion a continuous portion provided with a plurality of holes so located as to permit fastenings to be driven into the shoe between the first-mentioned portion of the mem' her and the ed go of the wiper to fasten the member to the shoe while the wiper is holding the member pressed against the upper.
  • a device for holding an upper in lasted position over the marginal port-ion of a sole comprising an upper-retaining member formed to engage the upper along the margin of the sole and having a portion thereof arranged to be engaged by the edge of a wiper of a lasting machine to force the member in va 'dly over the shoe bottom, said member having in the face thereof engaged by the edge of the wiper fastening-receiving recesses arranged to permit it to be secured in holding relation to the upper by fastenings inserted in different locations along the edge of the wiper without retractive movement of the wiper.
  • a device for holding an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole comprising a member having a continuous portion thereof formed to face the marginal port-ion of the sole and another portion arranged to be positioned in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom and to be engaged by the edge of a wiper of a lasting machine to press the member inwardly over the shoe bottom, said member having in its first-mentioned portion a plurality of holes extending through it in such locations as to permit tacks to be driven along the edge of the wiper between said edge and the upstanding portion of said member with their heads in clamping relation to said upstanding portion while the Wiper is holding the member pressed inwardly over the shoe bottom,
  • a device for hold ng an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole comprising upper-retaining member having a portion thereof formed to face the marginal portion of the sole and another portion arranged to be positioned in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom and to be engaged by the edge of a wiper of a lasting machine to press the member inwardly over the shoe bottom said member having a plurality of holes extending through said first-mentioned portion thereof in positions to receive fastenings inserted between the edge of the wiper and said upstanding portion of the member and having the top or its upstanding portion so formed as to indicate the locations of said holes.
  • a device'for holding an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole comprising anupper-retaining member having different portions n angular relation to each other, one arranged to face the marginal portion of the sole and the other arranged to be positioned in upstanding relation the shoe bottom, said member having in its firstmentioned portion holes through which to insert fastenings into the shoe and having in 'one side of its upstanding portion recesses substantially in line with said holes and extending from the top of the upstanding portion downwardly to receive the fastenings.
  • a device for holding an upper in lasted tioned position over the marginal portion of a sole comprising a sheet-metal member having different portions in angular relation to each other, one formed to engage the upper over the marginal portion of the sole and the other arran ed to be positioned in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom, said memher having a plurality of holes extending through the first-mentioned portion thereof to receive tacks for holding the member on the shoe ano having in its upstanding portion adjacent to said holes corrugations arranged to provide recesses for the shanks of the tacks and also to provide seats for the heads of the tacks in clamping relation to said member.
  • a device for holding an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole comprising an upper-retaining member hav ing a portion thereof formed to engage the upper over the marginal portion of the sole and another portion formed to present a face inclined outwardly over said first-mentioned portion of the member, said member having in its first-mentioned portion a plurality of holes to receive fastenings for securing the mem her to the shoe and having in its outwardly inclined face recesses substantially in line with said holes to receive the shanks of the fastenings.
  • a device for holding an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole comprising a member having a portion thereof formed to engage the upper over the margmal portion of the sole and another portion arranged to be positioned in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom and inclined outwardly over said first-mentioned portion of the member said member having in its first-menportion approximately at the apex of the angle between.
  • the different portions a plurality of holes to receive tacks for fastening the member to the shoe and having in its upstanding portion adjacent to said holes corrugations arranged to provide recesses ex tending in substantially perpendicular relation to the shoe bottom to receive the shanks of the tacks and also to provide seats for the heads of the tacks.
  • a device for holding an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of asole comprising an upper-retaining member having a portion thereof formed to engage the upper over the marginal portion of the sole and another portion formed to present a face inclined outwardly over said first-mentioned portion of the member in position to be engaged by the edge of a wiper of a lasting mahne for forcing the member inwardly over e shoe bottom, said member having in its first-mentioned portion a plurality of holes in positions to receive fastenings driven adia -enc to "the edge of the wiper to fasten said member to the shoe and having in its outwardly inclined face recesses substantially in line with said holes to receive and guide the fastenings, said face being so inclined as to prevent the wiper from entirely covering said holes.
  • a device for holding an end portion of an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole comprising a member h av'in a normal contour approximating that of the edge of an end of the shoe bottom for engaging the upper over the marginal portion of the sole around the end of the shoe bottom and adapted to be pressed against the upper by end'embracing wipers of a lasting machine; said member being so formed as to permit fastenings to be inserted in different 10- cations along the edges of the wipers around the end portion of the shoe bottom 'to secure the member pressure-applying relation to the upper While the wipers are holding the imember in that relation.
  • a device for holding an end portion of an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole comprising a member formed to extend around the end of the shoe bottom in engagement with the upper over the marginal portion of the sole and having normally a' len hwise contour approximating that of the edge of the end portion of the shoe bottom, said member being yicldable and resilient in directions laterally of the shoe and so con structed as to permit it to be engaged by the edges of end-embracing wipers of a lasting machinc'to force it inwardly over the shoe bottom both lengthwlse and laterally of the shoe, the member also having holes extending through it in such relation thereto as to permil; a fastening oi: fastenings to be driven approximately at the end of that portion of the shoe bottom to which itis applied and other fastenings at the sides of the shoe bottom while the wipers are holding the member against the upper to secure it in pressure applying relation to the upper. 77
  • a devicerfor holding the toe portion of an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole comprising a sheet-metal member formed to extend around the toe end of the shoe bottom and having different portions in angular relation to each other, one arranged to engage the upper over the marginal portion of the sole and the other inclined outwardly over said first-mentioned portion in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom, said member having in its first-mom tio'ned portion a plurality of holes extending tions arranged in angular relation to each other and of uninterrupted extent substantially throughout the length of the member for engagingportions of the upper over the margin and opposite the lip or shoulder of the sole respectively and adapted to be pressed against the upper in said angle by a wiper of a lasting machine, said member being so formed as to permit fastenings to be driven through it and into the shoe in locations be tween the edge of the wiper and that portion of the member which'is opposite the lip or shoulder of the sole while the wiper is holding the member pressed
  • a toe binder having two diverging arms'connected by a permanently curved portion, the arms and the curved portion being angular in cross section and comprising an uninterrupted substantially plane member and a flange upstanding therefrom, the plane member being provided with holes positioned near the ends of the arms and at or near the curved portion, and the upstanding flange being being provided with recesses in alinement with the holes.
  • a toe binder having two diverging arms connected by a curved portion, the arms and the curved portion being angular in cross section and comprising a substantially plane member and an upstanding portion having a face inclined outwardly over said plane member, the plane member being provided with holes positioned approximately at the ends of the arms and at or near the curved portion, and the upstanding portion having recesses in its outwardly inclined face in alinement with said holes.
  • a toe binder having two diverging arms connected by a curved portion, the arms and the curved portion being angular in cross section and comprising a substantially plane member and an upstanding portion having a face inclined outwardly over said plane member, the plane member being provided with holes located substantially adjacent to said outwardly inclined face, and the upstanding portion having in said face recesses in alinement with the holes and extending in substantially perpendicular relation to the plane member.
  • a device for holding the toe portion of an u; per in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole comprising a preformed member having two arms connected by a permanentlv curved portion and adapted to engage the upper over the marginal portion of the sole around the toe end of the shoe bottom and to be pressed against the upper heightwise of the toe by the toe-embracing wlpers of a lasting machine, said member havmg means thereon arrange: to be engaged by the edges of the wipers to position the member in proper relation to the shoe and being so constructed as to permit fastenings to be driven through it in different locations opposite the edges of the wipers to secure the member in pressure-applying relation to the upper.
  • A. device for holding the toe portion of an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole comprising a member formed to extend around the toe end of the shoe bottom over the marginal portion of the upper and having normally a lengthwise contour approximating that of the edge of the toe end of the shoe bottom, said member having a portion thereof arranged to be engaged by the edges of the toe-embracing wipers of a lasting machine to force the member inwardly over the shoe bottom and being so constructed as to permit fastenings to be driven in locations opposite and close to the edges of the wipers t?) fasten it in holding relation to the upper.
  • a device for holding the toe portion of an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole comprising a member formed to extend around the toe end of the shoe bottom over the marginal portion of the upper and having normally a lengthwise contour approximating that of the edge of the toe end of the shoe bottom, said member being angular in cross-section to provide an uninterru'pted'portion arranged to face the margin of the sole and an upstanding portion, said firstmentioned portion of the member having a plurality of openings therein arranged to receive fastenings driven into the shoe and the upstanding portion being provided in one side thereof with a plurality of recesses substantially in alinenient with said openings to receive portions of the fastenings.
  • a device for holding the toe portion of an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole comprising a member adapted to be applied in engagement with the upper over the toe end of the shoe bottom, said member being angular in cross-section to provide an upstanding portion arranged to be engaged by the edges of the toe-embracing wipers of a lasting machine and another portion arranged to extend from said upstanding portion outwardly toward the edge of the shoe bottom and to engage the upper continuously around the toe, the outwardly extending portion of the member having a pinrality of holes therein arranged to receive fastenings driven in locations opposite the edges of the wipers to fasten the member to the shoe and the upstanding portion of the member having in its outer face recesses substantially in alinement with said holes to re DCre portions of the fastenings.
  • a device for holding the toe portion of an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole comprising a member adapted to be app-lied over the toe end of the shoe bottom in engagement with the upper and having a portion thereof arranged to be positionet in front of the edges of the toe-embracing wipers of a lasting machine, the member having in the outer face of that portion thereof a plurality of recesses open toward the edges of the wipers to receive fastenings for securing the member in holding relation to the upper.
  • a device for holding the toe portion of an upper in lasted position over the marginal portlon of a sole comprising a member adapted to be applied over the toe end of the shoe bottom in engagement with the upper, said member being angular in cross-section to provide a. portion arranged to face the margin of the sole and an upstanding portion, the upstanding portion having in one face thereof a plurality of laterally open recesses arranged to extend from the top thereof downwardly toward the shoe to receive the shanks of tacks driven with their heads in clamping relation to the member.

Landscapes

  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)

Description

Jan. 17, 1933. J. FAUSSE MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Filed May 13, 1929 2 Sheets-Sheet l Jan 17, 1933. J, FAU$5E 1,894,678
MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Filed May 15, 1929 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Jan. 17, 1933 rraur orrica JOSEPH FAUSSE, OF MELROSE, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOE, BY MESNE ASSIGNMENTS,
TO THE LITTLEWAY PROCESS COMPANY,
TIGN OF IVIASSACHUSETTS OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORA- MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Application filed May 13,
This invention relates to the manufacture of shoes, and more particularly to the hold ing or fastening of uppers in lasted relation to soles or insoles. Since the invention 18 aplplicable to the manufacture of shoes of various kinds, the term sole is frequently used hereinafter in a generic sense to designate that part against or over which the margin of the upper is'lasted, whether it be the insole of certain types of shoes or that part which in shoes of other types may be the outsole or the only sole with which the shoe is provided. The invention is herein illustrated with particular reference to operations performed at the toe ends of shoes, but it is to be understood that it is not thus limited in its applicability.
An object of the invention is to hold or fasten an upper in lasted relation to a sole in sole in such manner as to produce improved results in the shaping of the marginal portion of the upper and its conformlty to the contour of the sole; and in one important aspect the invention provides a novel method of fastening an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole whereby the upper is held and shaped effectively under pressure applied in a direction he ghtwise of V the shoe. In accordance with the procedure herein illustrated, a temporary retaining member or binder is applied to the upper over the marginal portion of the sole on a last and is pressed againstthe upper in direction ,7 toward the bottom face of the last, and a p in :luoing plurality of fastenings are then inserted in such relation to the retaining member as to secure it in position to maintain the pressure thus applied substantially throughout the length of that portion of the margin of thesole along which the pressure is applled. In the illustrated application of the invention to the lasting of the toe ends of sh oes there is utilized an upper-retaining member formed to enage the margin of the upper continuously around the toe end of the shoe bottom, and
to secure the member to the shoe fastenings inserted, as herein shown, in different cations along the margin of the shoe bottom, a fastening or fastenings located near the end of the toe and other fastenings 1929. Serial No. 362,?53.
located farther rearwardly at the sides of the toe. For pressing the retaining member against the shoe there may be conveniently utilized a wiper or wipers whereby the margin of the upper is first wiped into lasted relation to the sole, and as herein illustrated there are used for the purpose the toe-embracing Wipers of a bed-lasting machine, the fastenings being inserted in different locations along the edges of the wipers, as distinguished from locations beyond the ends of the wipers, While the wipers are holding the member in pressure-applying relation to the upper. While the member may be secured in proper aressureapplyin relation to the upper by fastenings of different kinds applied in various ways, it is contemplated that for the purpose in view there will preferably be used tacks so applied that their heads are in clamp-- ing relation to the member.
While it is within the scope of the method of this invention to utilize in the manner and for the purpose above set forth upperretaining members of various forms, important advantages are secured by the use of a member of the character herein illustrated, having different portions in angular relation to each other arranged respectively to face the marginal portion of the sole, or the bottom of the last, and to be positioned in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom. Such a member may be conveniently formed of sheet metal bent in the required shapeto provide a portion to face the bottom of the last and also an upstanding portion or flange; and it will be evident that such an upstanding portion or flange serves to increase the resistance of the member to bending stresses in directions heightwise of the shoe, so that by use of comparatively thin metal of suitable character the member as a whole may be rendered by the wiping faces of the wipers to force the member inwardly over the shoe bottom and to press it toward the bottom face of the last, and the fastening tacks are driven between the edges of the wipers and the upstanding flange into positions in which their heads are in clamping relation to the edge of the flange. This manner of securing the member to the shoe is especially advantageous by reason of the fact that the fastenings may be conveniently driven in positions to hold the member clamped down upon the shoe bottom while it is held pressed against the shoe by the wipers, and for the further reason that fastening's thus applied may be very easily removed, as more particularly hereinafter explained. The forcing of the retaining member inwardly over the bottom of the shoe by the wipers serves to tighten the upper and to position its margin in proper relation to the sole; and for purposes of end lasting there is preferably utilized a member which is somewhat yieldable laterally of the shoe, and also resilient, so that it may be forced to some extent inwardly over the opposite side margins of the shoe bottom in addition to movement lengthwise of the shoe by the action of the wipers and when removed from the shoe will resume its initial shape.
As hereinabove suggested, the invention is applicable to the manufacture of shoes of various kinds, and it is herein illustrated as applied to the manufacture of shoes of a type in which the margin of the upper is last-ed in generally parallel relation to the outer face of an insole in preparation for the application of an outsole directly against the outer face of the margin of the upper, and also shoes of a type in which there is a lip or shoulder on the insole against which the margin. of the upper is lasted, such as welt shoes. In malting shoes of the first-mentioned type it is sometimes the practice, in order to dispense with metallic fastenings such as lasting tacks as permanent parts of the shoe, to secure at least the toe portion of the upper to the insole by cement; and under such or other con tions involving the use of cement in lasting the method hereinabove described of fastening an upper temporarily in lasted position has important advantages, since the upper is pressed firmly and evenly a the margina l portion of the insole and .=s maintained thus under pressure until the cement has set. Preferably, as illustrated, the retaining member, while engaging a substantial portion of the width of the margin of the upper, is applied at a distance from the edge of the upper, so that portions of the margin where the lasting wrinkles are most prominent and also where any excess of cement will be located after the upper has been wiped inwardly over the insole are not pressed down on the insole but are left in condition to be conveniently trimmed preparatory to the laying of the outsole.
It will be understood that the invention does not depend for utility upon the use of cement as upper-securing means, since under some conditions, for example, the properties of box toe stiffening material may be availed of to maintain the upper materials in lasted condition after treatment such as hereinbefore described. Such use of box toe stiffening material is especially appropriate in the manufactureof shoes having lipped insoles, such as welt shoes, and it will be understood that in making shoes of that type treatment in accordance with the method of this invention serves to shape the upper in a very effective and satisfactory manner in the angle between the margin or feather of the insole and the lip, the different angularly related parts of the upper-retaining member engaging respectively portions of the upper that are over the feather of the insole and are against the lip and maintaining firm pressure on these different portions of the upper until the stiffening material has hardened or until the upper has otherwise set in lasted shape. In the manufacture of welt shoes this provides a very satisfactory condition for the sewing of a tight inseam.
In addition to its novel method aspects hereinabove discussed, the invention further provides a novel upper-retaining device or member so constructed as to permit and facilitate its attaclnnent to a shoe in the manner and for the purposes described. The member herein shown, as already suggested, is provided with different angularly related portions arranged respectively to face the mar ginal portion of the sole or the bottom of the last and to be positioned in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom; and. in that portion of the member which faces the bottom of the last there are provided a plurality of holes so arranged as to permit fastenings, such as tacks, to be driven through it and into the shoe between the edges of the wipers and the upstanding portion of the member while the wipers are holding the member pressed against the shoe. To indicate the locations of these holes and to permit the tacks to be readily driven in front of the edges of the wipers without any retractive movement of the wipers after they have forced the member inwardly over the shoe bottom by engagement of their edges with its upstanding portion, the latter provided, in the construction shown, with a plurality of tack-receiving recesses in line with the holes. In a member formed of sheet metal, as shown, these recesses are conveniently afforded by corrugations in the upstandin flange portion of the member; In addition to guideways for the shanksv of the tacks in front of the edges of the wipers, such a construction also provides at the upper surface or edge of the upstanding portion of the member extended seats arranged to be engaged by substantial portions of the heads of the tacks to clamp the nember down upon the shoe bottom. Preferably, as further illustrated, the upstanding portion of the member presents a face inclined outwardly over that portion w ich faces the margin of the sole, which facilitates the formation of recesses of substantial depth arranged to extend in generally perpendicular relation to the shoe bottom. Another advantage in this construction is that the wipers engaging the outwardly inclined face of the member are prevented from completely covering the tack-receiving holes which are preferably located approximately at the apex of the angle between the different portions of the member.
The novel method and novel features of the upper-retaining means provided by the in ventionwill now be more particularly described y reference to the accompanying drawings and thereafter pointed out in the claims.
In the drawings,
Fig. 1 is a perspective view illustrating the wiping of the toe portion of an upper into lasted position by the use of the toe-embracing wipers of a bed-lasting machine prior to the fastening of the upper by the method of this invention, the shoe illustrated being one of a type in which the margin of the upper is lasted in generally parallel relation to the outer face of an insole;
F i g. 2 is a similar view illustrating how an upper-retaining member is applied in accordance with this invention around the toe end of the shoe bottom and fastened while the wipers are holding it pressed against the shoe, a portion of one of the wipers being broken away;
F ig. 3 is a sectional View on an enlarged scale through a portion of the shoe and one of the wipers with the parts in the same relation as illustrated in Fig. 2;
Fig. 4 is a perspective view of the toe of the shoe withthe upper-retaining member fastened thereon;
Fig. 5 is a, sectional view showing how the upper of the illustrated shoe is fastened in lasted position along the sides at the rear of the toe end; i
Fig. 6 is a perspective view of the toe of the shoe after the upper-retaining member has been removed and after the margin of the upper has been trimmed preparatory to the laying of the outsole over the insole and against the outer face of the margin of the upper;
Fig. 7 is a perspective View of the upper retaining member detached;
Fig.8 is a perspective view of the toe of a welt shoe illustrating the use of the upperretaining member shown in Fig. 7 for fasten- I ing an upper in lasted position in the angle between the margin or feather a lipped insole;
Fig. 9 is a cross-sectional View illustrating further the relation of the upper-retaining member to the parts of a shoe of the type shown in Fig. 8 and illustrating also the use of the wipers in applying the member to a shoe of this type; and
Fig. 10 is a perspective view of the toe .of the welt shoe after the trimming of the margin of the upper and the removal of the upper-retaining member.
The shoe shown in Figs. 1 to 6, inclusive, comprises an insole a, mounted on a lastb, and an upper c the margin of which extending beyond the edge of the insole is lasted in generally parallel relation to the outer face of the insole, this type of shoe being one in which an outsole is applied and secured against the outer face of the margin of the upper. As herein illustrated the margin of the upper along the sides of the shoe, between the toe and heel end portions, is fastened in lasted relation to the insole by staples s which are driven and curved in such manner as to anchor them without penetrating the inner face of the insole, in accordance with the method disclosed in Letters Patent No. 1,815,296, granted on July 21, 1931 upon an application of George Goddu. This serves to avoid the presence of any metallic fastenings on the inner face of the insole along the sides of the ball and shank portions of the shoe. For a similar purpose the toe portion of the margin of, the upper, as illustrated, is fastenedin lasted position by cement 9 (Fig. 3). The upper 0 may include as usual different layers of material, comprising a lining inside of the upper leather and at the toe also box toe stiffener between the leather and the lining. In the lasting of the toe portion of such a shoe the marginal portions of the lining and of the box toe stiffener are preferably cut away so that these parts overlap only the extreme edge of the outer face of the insole, as shown, and the upper leather is, therefore, secured directly to the insole by the cement. These steps in the manufacture of shoes of the illustrated type are well known and require no further description.
and the lip of The drawings illustrate the lasting of the toe of the shoe as effected by the aid of a bed-lasting machine of a well-known type features of which 7 are disclosed in various United States Letters Patent, including Letters Patent No. 1,284,870, granted on November 12, 1918 upon an application of Matthias Brock. For an understanding of this invention it is unnecessary to describe the construction of that machine in detail. It will be understood that the last with its shoe materials is mounted at its heel end upon a shoe support or spindle 10 and is supported at its toe end on a toe post 12. For lasting the toe there are utilized toe-embracing wipers 14c which are toward the outer face of the insole.
advanced lengthwise of the shoe and are closed laterally of the shoe by a hand lever (not shown) to wipe the marginal portion of the upper inwardly over the insole. For operating 011 a shoe of the type shown in Figs. 1 to 6, inclusive, the machine is provided with a toe band 16 for embracing the toe end of the shoe and for clamping the upper to. the end and side faces of the last prior to and during the overwiping operation of the wipers 14. It will be further understood that the toe lasting means, comprising the wipers and toe band, is movable heightwise of the shoe by the operation of a treadle (not shown), and that by such movement the wipers 14 are utilized to wipe the upper heightwise of the toe before wiping it inwardly over the insole. By the use of the same treadle the wipers may be forced downwardly to apply pressure heightwise of the shoe to the margin of the upper over the insole. In lasting the too of a shoe of the type shown in Figs. 1 to 6, inclusive, with cement the wipers are preferably operated to wipe the upper inwardly over the insole in the first instance before cement is applied. After this preliminary shaping of the margin of the upper materials the wipers are retracted, the lining and the toe stiffener are trimmed back as previously described and cement is applied as required, and the wipers are then again advanced and closed over a portion at least of the width of the margin of the upper. It is then necessary to T fasten the upper about the toe in order to hold it until the cement has set. For this purpose it has been a common practice heretofore to use a large number of temporary lasting tacks driven part way into the bottom of the shoe and afterwards removed. There are, however, various objections to the fastening of the upper in that manner, including the fact that the tacks are necessarily driven in spaced relations and, therefore,
i do not hold the upper continuously along the margin of the shoe bottom, and the further fact that the tacks do not apply and maintain on the upper any substantialpressure The present invention, in one of its important aspects, accordingly provides a method and means whereby greatly improved results are obtained in the fastening of the toe portion of the upper until the cement has set.
For the purpose in view, in accordance with the procedure illustrated, the toe wipers 14 are lifted and partially retracted after they have wiped the margin of the upper inwardly the second time as above described, and the operator then inserts between them and the upper an upper-retaining member formed to extend continuously around the toe along the margin of the shoe bottom. after which the wipers are again advanced and closed to force this member inwardly over the shoe bottom both lengthwise and laterally of the shoe and are operated to press it against the upper in a direction heightwise of the shoe. Thereafter, while the upperretaining member is held in pressure-applying relation to the upper by the wipers, a plurality of fastenings are driven by the operator into the bottom of the shoe in different locations along the edges of the wipers in such manner as to clamp the member down upon the shoe bottom.
As herein illustrated, there is provided and utilized an upper-retaining member formed to extend as a band or binder around the toe end of the shoe bottom and having normally a curvature approximating that of the edge of the toe portion of the shoe bottom for convenience in applying the member to the shoe, this member being formed of sheet metal and having different portions 18 and 20 in angular relation to each other arranged respectively to face the marginal portion of the insole, or the bottom of the last, in engagement with the upper and to be positioned in upstanding relation to the shoe bot tom. The portion 20 of the member thus serves as a flange adapted to be engaged by the edges of the wipers to force the member inwardly over the shoe bottom both length- .vise of the shoe and also to some extent latorally of the shoe while positioning it in proper relation to the toe end of the shoe, the member being preferably somewhat yieldable and resilient in directions laterally of the shoe to permit this action at the sides of the toe, and the portion 18 provides means adapted to be engaged by the wiping faces of the wipers to press the member down upon the shoe bottom. The forcing of the member inwardly over the bottom of the shoe and downwardly by the wipers serves further to tighten the upper over the last and to press its margin into proper relation to the insole.
t will be evident that the upstandii'ig flange portion 20 of the member serves to increase the resistance of the member as a whole to bending stresses in directions heightwise of the shoe, and although forn ed of comparatively thin sheet metal the member is thus rendered substantially rigid in directions heightwise of the shoe so as to maintain the required pressure on the upper throughout its whole length when secured to the shoe by fastenings inserted at considerable distances from one another.
Vhile the upper-retaining member is held pressed 'iiwardly over the shoe bottom and downwardly toward the insole by the wipers in the manner above de cribed, it is fastened, as herein illustrated, by driving into the bottom of the shoe a plurality of tacl s t through holes provided in the portion 18 of the member in locations approximately at the apex of the angle between the different portions 18 and 20, the taclrs being driven in locations between the edges of the wipers and the upstanding portion 20. In order to clamp the member down upon the shoe bottom and thus to maintain the required pres- :sure on the upper after the wipers 14: have been ivirawn, the tacks are driven into such positions that their heads overlap the edge of the upstanding flange portion The tacks may be driven in different locations along the edges of the wipers within the range of choice provided by the different holes 22, and the locations of these holes also may be varied as desired. is herein illustrated, two ta ks are driven at each side of the toe, the two foremost tacks being located near the end of the toe and the others being located farther rearwardly at the sides of the toe.
ln order to facilitate the driving of the tacks as above described while the wipers are pressing the retaining member inwardly over the shoe bottom by engagement with its flange portion 20 as well as pressing it down wardly toward the insole, the flange 20 as herein illustrated is soformed as to provide laterally open tack-receiving recesses in front of the edges of the wipers in alinement with the holes 22, these recesses being afforded by corrugations 24- in this portion of the ember. Preferably, as shown, the flange 9.0 is so formed as to incline outwardly over that portion 18 of the member which faces the margin of the insole, and this renders it practicable to provide corrugations which are especially pronounced at the upper edge of the flange 20, with tack-receiving recesses extending in substantially perpendicular relation to the shoe bottom in line with the holes The recesses provided by the corrugations 2% indicate to the operator the locations of the holes and further serve to guide the shanks of the tacks inserted in front of the edges of the wipers. Further more, the corrugations provide at the upper edge of the flange 20 curved seats arranged to be engaged by substantial pertions of the heads of the tacks to clamp the retaining member down upon the shoe bottom. The outward inclination of the flange 20 in respect to the portion 18 of the member has the further advantage that it serves by engagement with the wipers to prevent the latter from completely covering the holes 22 located, as h-ereinbefore described, approximately at the apex of the angle between the different portions of the member.
It will be evident that the portion 18 of the upper-retaining member shown not only engages the upper continuously along the margin of the shoe bottom but also engages a substantial portion of the width of the margin of the upper overlying the insole, so that pressure is applied to the upperover a considerable area to hold it in a substantially flat condition and also to insure an extended and effective bond between the upper and the insole by the action of the cement. Preferably however, as illustrated, the member is so formed and positioned that it engages the margin of the upper only at a substantial distance from the edge of the latter, so that portions of the margin where the wrinkles produced by the gathering effect of the wipers are necessarily most prominent and also where any excess of cement will be located after the upper has been wiped inwardly over the insole are not pressed down but are leftin such condition as to be conveniently trimmed in the manner customary heretofore to provide a substantially flat surface to receive the outsole. It will be understood that after the retaining member has remained on the shoe a suficient time for the cement to set, the tacks are withdrawn and the member is removed, after which the upper-trimming operation is performed by means such as is customarily utilized for this purpose.
The fastening of the upper-retaining memher to the shoe by tacks or like fastenings driven in clamping relation to the edge of the upstanding flan e 20 of the member is advantageous not only because the tacks may be readily driven and the member clamped thereby upon the shoe bottom while the wipers are holding it pressed against the shoe as hereinabove described, but also for the reason that tacks driven in that relation to the member may be readily removed without damage to the member or to the shoe. It will be evid nt thaton the outer side of each tack a considerable portion of its shank below the head is exposed, and a tool may be readily inserted between this portion of the head of the tack and the portion 18 of the retaining member to pry the tack out of the shoe. This is a great advantage since it obviates all danger of damage to the shoe or to the retaining member such as might be involved if it were necessary to insert a tool between the member and the upper in order to withdraw the tacks. W
In Figs. 8, 9 and 10 the invention is illustrated as applied to the manufacture of shoes of a type having an insole (Z provided with a lip 6 against which the margin of the upper is lasted, the particular shoe shown being a welt shoe. In lasting the toe of a shoe of this type an upper-retaining member or binder constructed as hereinbefore described is applied to the upper in the angle between the margin or feather and the lip or shoulder of the insole after the margin of the upper has been wiped into this angle and shaped in conformity to the feather and the lip by the toe-embracing wipers 14, and the wipers are then used in a manner substantially as hereinbefore described to force the member inwardly and down upon the feather of the insole and to hold it while the fastening tacks are driven. The diiferent portions 18 and 20 of the member engage respectively portions of the margin of the upper which are over the feather and against the lip of the insole, the portion 18 extending outwardly as far as the edge of the insole all around the toe, and the tacks serve to clamp the member down over the feather while also holding it pressed inwardly toward the lip, so that the margin of the upper is maintained in the shape best adapted for the sewing of a tight inseam until it has set in that shape. Advantageously the properties of box toe stiffening material may be availed of to maintain the margin of the upper in the shape acquired after the upper-retaining member is removed, although the utility of the invention as aplied to the manufacture of shoes having ipped insoles is not dependent upon the presence of box toe stiffening material. The upstanding margin of the upper about the toe may be conveniently trimmed while the upper-retaining member is on the shoe by means such as customarily utilized heretofore for that purpose. Fig. 10 shows the toe end of the shoe after it has been thus trimmed and after the upper-retaining member has been removed preparatory to the welting operation.
While it is preferable, as hereinbefore suggested, that the upper-retaining member shall have, when applied to the shoe, a lengthwlse contour corresponding substantially to that of the edge of that portion of the shoe bottom over which it is applied, experience has shown that it is not necessary to provide differently shaped members for all different sizes or styles of shoes. This is notably the fact in operating on shoes of the type illustrated in Figs. 1 to 6, inclusive, where members of the same shape may be used satisfactorily on shoes of a comparatively wide range of sizes and styles. It is also to be understood that while the upper-retaining member is herein described as made of sheet metal, it may be made of other material satisfactory for the purpose in view.
It will be evident that the upper-retaining device or binder hereinbefore described may be regarded as comprising arms arranged in divergent relation to each other to extend along the sides of the toe and connected by a permanently curved portion arranged to extend around the end of the toe, and as comprising further a substantially plane member 18 of continuous or uninterrupted extent all around the toe and a flange 20 arranged in upstanding relation to the plane member.
Having described the invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is 1. That improvement in methods of fastening an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole on a last which consists in applying a temporary retaining member to the overlasted upper over the marginal portion of the sole and pressing said plied substantially throughout the length of that portion of the margin of the sole along which the pressure is applied.
2. That improvement in methods of fastening an upper in lasted position over the applying a temporary retaining member to the overlasted upper over the marginal portion of the sole. and pressing said member against the upper in a direction toward the bottom face of the last, and while holding the member thus pressed against the upper driving a plurality of tacks into positions to clamp said member by their heads against the margin of the upper in a direction toward the bottom face of the last to maintain thereon the pressure thus applied.
3. That improvement in methods of fastening an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole on a last which consists in applying to the overlasted upper over the marginal portion of the sole a temporary retaining member so formed as to be substantially rigid in directions heightwise of the shoe and pressing said member against the upfper in a direction toward the bottom face 0 the last, and while holding the member thus pressed against the upper driving a plurality of fastenings in locations along the same portion of the margin of the shoe bottom where the holding pressure is applied to said member and in such relation to said member as to secure it against any substantial pressure-relaxing movement heightwise of the shoe when it is released from the pres sure applied thereto.
4. That improvement in methods of has tening an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole on a last which consists in applying to the overlasted upper over the marginal portion of the sole a temporary retaining member formed to extend along the margin of the sole and having different portions in angular relation to each other arranged respectively to face the bottom of the last and to provide a flange in l upstanding relation to the shoe bottom, pressing said member against the upper by engaging that portion which faces the bottom of the last, and while holding the member thus pressed against the upper inserting 1 fastenings in clamping relation to the edge of said upstanding flange to hold the member in pressure-applying relation to the upper.
5. That improvement in methods of fastening an upper in lasted position over the margin of a sole on a last which consists in 29 marginal portionof a sole on a last around an end of a shoe bottom which consists in the device thus pressed against the upper fastening it near the end and in other locations at the sides of that portion of the shoe bottom where the holding pressure is applied to the device to maintain the pressure of the device on the uooer.
6. That improvement in methods of fastening an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole which consists applying a temporary retaining member to the upper over the marginal portion of the sole and by applyin force heightwise of the shoe to wiper or alast-ing machine pressing said member against the upper, and while holding said member in pressure-applying relation to the upper by the wiper inserting a plurality of fastenings in different locations along the edge of the wiper to fasten the member in that relation to the upper.
2". That improvement in methods of lasting shoes which consists in wiping an upper inwardly over the margin of a sole on a last by use of a wiper of a lasting machine, then inserting between the wiper and the upper a retaining member extending along the margin of the shoe bottom and by use of the wiper pressing said member against the up per in a direction toward the bottom face of the last, and while holding the member pressed against the upper by the wiper driving a plurality of fastenings in different lo cations along the edge of the wiper into positions to clamp said member down upon the margin of the upper;
8. That improvement in methods of fastening an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole which consists i applying to the upper a retaining member having a portion arranged to be engaged by the edge of a wiper of a lasting machine and by use of such a wiper forcing the member inwardly over the shoe bottom and also pressing it against the upper heightwise of the shoe, and then without retracting the wiper fastening said member to the shoe in different loca ions along and adjacent to the edge of the wiper.
9. That improvement in methods of fastoning an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole which consists in applying to the upper over the marginal portion of the sole a retaining member having different portions in angular relation to each other arranged respectively to face the marginal portion of the sole and to be positioned in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom and by use of a wiper of a lasting machine in engagement with said member in 'ly of the shoe and pressing it the shoe'bottom and while holding the memthe angle between its different portions forcing the member inwardly over the shoe bottom and downwardly toward the sole, and while holding the member pressed against the shoe by the wiper inserting a plurality of fastenings between the edge of the wiper and the upstanding portion of said member in clamping relation to the edge of said upstanding portion to fasten the member to the shoe.
10. That improvement in methods of fastoning an upper in lasted'position over the marginal portion of a sole on a last around an end of the shoe oottom which consists in applying to the upper over the marginal portion of the sole a retaining member formed to engage the upper around the end of the shoe bottom and substantially rigid in directions heightwise of the shoe and by use of end-embracing wipers of a lasting machine pressing said member against the upper in a direction toward the bottom face of the last, and while holding the member pressed against the upper by the wipers fastening it near the end and also in other locations at the sides of that portion of the shoe bottom along which the edges of the wipers extends in su 1h manner as to hold it from any substantial pressure-relaxing movement heightwise of the shoe when it is released from the pressure of the wipers.
11. That improvement in methods of fastening an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole around an end of a shoe bottom which consists in applying to the upper over the marginal portion of the sole a retaining member formed to extend around the end of the shoe bottom and to be engaged by the edges of end-embracing wipers of a lasting machine and by use of such wipers forcing said member inwardly over the shoe bottom both lengthwise and lateraldown upon her in pressure-applying relation to the shoe 'by the wipers inserting a plurality of fastenings'in different locations along the edges of the wipers into positions to clamp said member toward the marginal portion. of the sole.
12. That improvement in methods of fastening an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole around an end of a shoe bottom which consists in applying to the upper over the marginal portion of the sole a retaining member formed to engage the upper around the end of the shoe bottom and having different portions in angular relation to each other arranged respectively to face the marginal portion of the sole and to be positioned in upstading relation to the shoe bottom and by use of end-embracing wipers of a lasting machine in engagement with the different portions of said member forcing it inwardly over the shoe bottom both lengthwise and laterally of the shoe and also pressing the toes of shoes which consists in wiping the margin of an upper about the toe of a last inwardly over the marginal portion of a sole on the last by use of toe-embracing wipers of a lasting machine, retracting the wipers and inserting between them and the shoe an upper-retaining member so formed as to be engaged both by the wiping faces and the edges of the wipers, then by use of the wipers forcing said member inwardly over the shoe bottom and toward the bottom face of the last, and while holding the member in' pressure-applying relation to the upper by the wipers fastening it near the end of the toe and farther rearwardly at the sides of the toe to maintain'it in that relation to the upper when it is released by the wipers.
14. That improvement in methods of last ing the toes of shoe which consists in wiping the margin of an upper about the toe of a last inwardly over the marginal portion of a sole on' the last by use of toe-embracing wipers of a lasting machine, retracting the wipers and inserting between them and the shoe an upper-retaining member formed to extend around the toe end of the shoe bottom with a portion thereof between the wipers and the marginal portion of the sole and another portion upstanding infront of the edges ofthe wipers, then by use'of the wipers forcing said member inwardly over the shoe bottom both lengthwise and laterally of the shoe and also toward the bottom face of the last, and while holding the member in pressure-applying relation to the upper by the wipers driving fastenings in clamping relation to the upper edge'of said upstanding portion of the member including one or more fastenings near the end and others farther rearwardly at the sides of the toe to maintain it in pressure-applying relation to the upper.
15. That improvement in methods of fastening an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole on a last which consists in applying to the overlasted upper over the marginal portion of the sole a retaining member having a flange inupstanding relation to the shoe bottom, pressing said re-r taining member upon the upper in a direction toward the bottom face of the last by engagement with a portion of the member other than said flange, and while holding the member thus pressed upon the upper clamping it upon the upper in a direction toward the bottom face of the last by engagement with the edge of said flange.
16. That improvement in methods of fastening an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole on a last which consists in applying to the overlasted upper over the marginal portion of the sole a retaining member having a flange in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom, pressing said retaining member upon the upper in a direction toward the bottom face of the last by engagement with a portion of the member other than said flange, and while holding the member thus pressed upon the upper inserting a plurality of headed fastenings into the shoe' bottom with their heads overlapping the edge of said flange in clamping relation to said edge to hold the member pressed down upon the shoe bottom.
17. That improvement in methods of fastening an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole which consists in applying a retaining member to the upper over the marginal portion of the sole and pressing it down upon the shoe bottom, and then fastening said member to the shoe by driving tacks each with a portion only of the lower face of its head in clamping relation to said member at the side of the tack that is farthest from the edge of the shoe bottom; 7
18. That improvement in methods of fastening an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole on a last which consists in applying to'the overlasted upper over the marginal portion of the sole a retaining member having a portion thereof in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom, pressing said member upon the upper in a direction toward the bottom face of the last by engagement with a portion of the member other than said upstanding portion, and while holdin the member thus pressed upon the upper drlving tacks at the side of said upstanding portion which is nearest the edge of the shoe bottom with the lower faces of their heads partially overlapping and in clamping relation to said upstanding portion to hold the member pressed down upon the shoe bottom.
19. That improvement in methods of fastening an upper in lastedrposition over the marginal portion of a sole about the toe end of a shoe which consists in pressing down upon the overlasted upper over the marginal portion of the sole a retaining member formed to extend as a band around the toe end of the shoe bottom and having a flange arranged in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom, and then securing said member in position to press the upper down upon the sole by inserting one or more fastenings near the end of the toe and other fastenings farther rearwardly at the sides of the toe in clamping relation to the edge of said flange.
20. That improvement in methods of making shoes of a type in which the margin of the upper is lasted in substantially parallel relation to the outer face of a sole on a last, which consists in working the margin of an upper into that relation to a sole, pressing against the margin of the upper in a direction toward the bottom face of the last a retaining member in engagement with said margin only a distance from the edge of the upper and while holding per all along its upper-engaging portion clamping it down upon the shoe bottom in position to maintain the pressure thus applied substantially throughout the length of that portion of the edge of the shoe bottom along which said pressure is applied, and after the upper has set in lasted position removing said retaining member from the shoe. 7
21. That improvement in methods of making shoes of a type in which the margin of the upper is lasted in substantially parallel re lation to the outer face of a sole on a last, which consists in wiping the margin of an upper into that relation to a sole by use of a wiper of a lasting machine, then by use of said wiper pressing against the margin of the upper in a direction toward the bottom face of the last aretaining member in engagement with a substantial portion of the width of said margin but engaging it only at a distance from the ed e of the upper, inserting fastenings in different locations along the edge of the wiper in such relation to said member as to hold it from any substantial pressure-relaxin g movement heightwise of the shoe when it is released from the pressure applied thereto by the wiper, and after the upper has set in lasted position removing said fastenings and retaining member from the shoe.
22. That improvement in methods of making shoes of a type in which the margin of the too portion ofthe upper is lasted in substantially parallel relation to the outer face of a sole on a last, which consists in working the margin of the upper about the toe into that relation to the sole by the use of toeembracing wipers, holding the margin of the uppe 1 in lasted position after withdrawal of the wipers by pressure applied thereto over an uninterrupted area of substantial width extending all around the toe at a distance from the inner edge of the upper and maintaining the pressure until the upper has set in lasted position, and thereafter releasing the margin of the upper from said pressure and trimming that portion of it which eX- tends inwardly beyond the portion to which the pressure was applied,
23. That improvement in methods of making shoes of a type in which the margin of the to, portion of the upper is lasted in substantially parallel relation to the outer face of a sole on a last, which consists in working :he margin of an upper about the toe into that relation to a sole, pressing against the margin of the upper around the toe end of the it pressed against the upshoe bottom in a direction toward the bottom face of the last retaining means engaging a substantial portion of the width of said margin in a location at a distance from the edge of the upper and then fastening saidmeans ing shoes in which cement is utilized to secure the toe portions of the uppers in lasted relation to the soles, which consists in working the margin of an upper about the toe end of last into lasted position over a sole on the last, pressing a retaining device against the margin of the upper around the toe end of the shoe bottom to force the upper into close contact with the sole and then driving a plurality of fasten ngs in different locations along the margin of the shoe bottom around the toe to hold said device in position to maintain the pressure thus applied to the upper while the cement is setting, and after the cement has set removing said fastenings and retaining device from the shoe.
25. That improvement in methods of male ing shoes in which cement is utilized to secure the toe portions of the uppers in lasted relat on to the soles, which consists in wiping the margin of the toe portion of an upper intolasted relation to a sole by the use of toeembracing wipers, retracting the wipers and inserting between them and the shoe an upper-retaining device extending around the toe end of the shoe bottom in engagement with a substantial portion of the width of the margin of the upper. pressing said device against the margin of the upper by use of the wipers, inserting fastenings in diflerent locations about the toe to secure said device aga nst any substantial pressure-relaxing iovement when it is released by the wipers, leaving the device thus secured while the cement is setting, and after the cement has set removing said fastenings and retaining device from the shoe and trimming the margin of the toe end of the upper.
26. That improvement in methods of making shoes in which cement is utilizedto secure the toe portions of the uppers in lasted relation to the soles, which consists in applying upper-holding cement at the toe of a shoe on a last, wiping the margin of the toe portion of the upper into lasted relation to a sole on the last by the use of toe-embracing wipers. then by use of said wipers forcing inwardly over the bottom of the shoe and also toward the bottom face of the last an upperretaining member engaging the margin of the upper about the toe, clamping said memwas her in osition to maintain the pressure thus applie on the upper toward the bottom face of the last all around the toe when the wipers are withdrawn, and after the cement has set removing said member from the shoe.
27. That improvement in methods of making shoes of a type in which the margin of the toe end of the upper beyond the edge of the sole is secured in generally parallel relation to the outer face of the sole by cement, which consists in working the margin of an upper about the toe end of a last into that relation to the outer face of a sole on the last, pressing against the margin of the upper in a direction toward the bottom face of the last a retaining member in engagementwith a substantial portion of the width of said margin around the toe but engaging it only at a distance from the edge of the upper, then fastening said member in position to maintain the pressure thus applied and leaving it on the shoe until the cement has set, and
after the cement has set removing said member from the shoe and trimming that portion of the margin of the toe end of the upper which extends inwardly beyond the portion engaged by said member.
28. That improvement in methods of fastening an upper in lasted position in the angle between the margin of a sole and a lip or shoulder on the sole which consists in applying to the upper in said angle a temporary retaining member having a portion formed to extend uninterruptedly along the edge of the shoe bottom and arranged to face the margin of the sole and an upstanding portion in angular relation to the first-named portion arranged to face the lip or shoulder of the sole. v and inserting a plurality of fastenings in clamping relation to the edge of said upstanding portion to hold said member in operative position on the shoe.
29. That improvement in methods of fastening an upper in lasted position in the angle between the margin of a sole and a lip or shoulder on the sole which consists in applying to the upper in said angle a temporary retaining member having a portion arranged to face the margin of the sole and an upstanding portion in angular relation to said first-named portion arranged to face the lip or shoulder of the sole, then by use of a wiper of a lasting machine engaging the member in the angle between said different portions pressing said member inwardly toward the lip or shoulder and also toward the margin of the sole, and while holding said member pressed against the upper by the wiper driving through the member in locations between the edge of the wiper and said upstanding portion a plurality of headed fastenings into positions to clamp the member against the shoe by engagement of their heads with the upper edge of said upstanding portion of the member.
30. That improvement in methods of fastening the toe portion of an upper in lasted position in the angle between the margin of a sole and a lip or shoulder on the sole which consists in applying to the upper in said angle a retaining member so formed as to be sub stantially rigid in directions heightwise of the shoe and to extend outward substantially as far as the edge of the sole uninterruptedly all around the toe, and fastening said member to the shoe by clamping it toward the margin of the sole near the end of the toe and farther rearwardly at the sides of the toe.
31. That improvement in methods of fastening the toe portion of an upper in lasted position over the margin of a sole and against a lip or shoulder on the sole which consists in applying to the upper about the toe in the angle between the margin and the lip or shoulder of the sole a binder having a portion arranged to face the margin of the sole in uninterrupted engagement with the upper all around the toe and another portion in angular relation to first-named portion or u ranged to face the lip or shoulder of the solo in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom and driving a plurality of fastenings including one or more fastemngs near the end of the toe and other fastenings farther rearwardly at the sides of the toe in clamping relation to the edge of the upstanding portion of the binder to clamp the binder in pressureapplying relation to the upper.
32. A device for holding an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole comprising an upper-retaining member formed to engage the upper along the margin of the sole and having a continuous substantially plane portion adapted to be pressed against the upper by a wiper of a lasting machine, said member having a plurality of holes extending through its plane portion in such locations as to permit fastenings to be inserted along the edge of the wiper to 3 fasten the member in pressure-applying relation to the upper while the wiper is pressing the member against the upper.
A device for holding an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a solo on a last comprising an upper-retaining member formed to engage the upper along the margin of the sole and adapted to be pressed against the upper by a wiper of a lasting machintn said m ember having a portion thereof arranged to extend in angular relation to the bottom face of the last in front of the edge of the wiper and having adjacent to that portion a continuous portion provided with a plurality of holes so located as to permit fastenings to be driven into the shoe between the first-mentioned portion of the mem' her and the ed go of the wiper to fasten the member to the shoe while the wiper is holding the member pressed against the upper.
34:- A device for holding an upper in lasted position over the marginal port-ion of a sole comprising an upper-retaining member formed to engage the upper along the margin of the sole and having a portion thereof arranged to be engaged by the edge of a wiper of a lasting machine to force the member in va 'dly over the shoe bottom, said member having in the face thereof engaged by the edge of the wiper fastening-receiving recesses arranged to permit it to be secured in holding relation to the upper by fastenings inserted in different locations along the edge of the wiper without retractive movement of the wiper.
35. A device for holding an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole comprising a member having a continuous portion thereof formed to face the marginal port-ion of the sole and another portion arranged to be positioned in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom and to be engaged by the edge of a wiper of a lasting machine to press the member inwardly over the shoe bottom, said member having in its first-mentioned portion a plurality of holes extending through it in such locations as to permit tacks to be driven along the edge of the wiper between said edge and the upstanding portion of said member with their heads in clamping relation to said upstanding portion while the Wiper is holding the member pressed inwardly over the shoe bottom,
36. A device for hold ng an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole comprising upper-retaining member having a portion thereof formed to face the marginal portion of the sole and another portion arranged to be positioned in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom and to be engaged by the edge of a wiper of a lasting machine to press the member inwardly over the shoe bottom said member having a plurality of holes extending through said first-mentioned portion thereof in positions to receive fastenings inserted between the edge of the wiper and said upstanding portion of the member and having the top or its upstanding portion so formed as to indicate the locations of said holes.
37. A device'for holding an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole comprising anupper-retaining member having different portions n angular relation to each other, one arranged to face the marginal portion of the sole and the other arranged to be positioned in upstanding relation the shoe bottom, said member having in its firstmentioned portion holes through which to insert fastenings into the shoe and having in 'one side of its upstanding portion recesses substantially in line with said holes and extending from the top of the upstanding portion downwardly to receive the fastenings.
38. A device for holding an upper in lasted tioned position over the marginal portion of a sole comprising a sheet-metal member having different portions in angular relation to each other, one formed to engage the upper over the marginal portion of the sole and the other arran ed to be positioned in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom, said memher having a plurality of holes extending through the first-mentioned portion thereof to receive tacks for holding the member on the shoe ano having in its upstanding portion adjacent to said holes corrugations arranged to provide recesses for the shanks of the tacks and also to provide seats for the heads of the tacks in clamping relation to said member.
39. A device for holding an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole comprising an upper-retaining member hav ing a portion thereof formed to engage the upper over the marginal portion of the sole and another portion formed to present a face inclined outwardly over said first-mentioned portion of the member, said member having in its first-mentioned portion a plurality of holes to receive fastenings for securing the mem her to the shoe and having in its outwardly inclined face recesses substantially in line with said holes to receive the shanks of the fastenings.
lO. A device for holding an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole comprising a member having a portion thereof formed to engage the upper over the margmal portion of the sole and another portion arranged to be positioned in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom and inclined outwardly over said first-mentioned portion of the member said member having in its first-menportion approximately at the apex of the angle between. the different portions a plurality of holes to receive tacks for fastening the member to the shoe and having in its upstanding portion adjacent to said holes corrugations arranged to provide recesses ex tending in substantially perpendicular relation to the shoe bottom to receive the shanks of the tacks and also to provide seats for the heads of the tacks.
l1. A device for holding an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of asole comprising an upper-retaining member having a portion thereof formed to engage the upper over the marginal portion of the sole and another portion formed to present a face inclined outwardly over said first-mentioned portion of the member in position to be engaged by the edge of a wiper of a lasting mahne for forcing the member inwardly over e shoe bottom, said member having in its first-mentioned portion a plurality of holes in positions to receive fastenings driven adia -enc to "the edge of the wiper to fasten said member to the shoe and having in its outwardly inclined face recesses substantially in line with said holes to receive and guide the fastenings, said face being so inclined as to prevent the wiper from entirely covering said holes. W
42. A device for holding an end portion of an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole comprising a member h av'in a normal contour approximating that of the edge of an end of the shoe bottom for engaging the upper over the marginal portion of the sole around the end of the shoe bottom and adapted to be pressed against the upper by end'embracing wipers of a lasting machine; said member being so formed as to permit fastenings to be inserted in different 10- cations along the edges of the wipers around the end portion of the shoe bottom 'to secure the member pressure-applying relation to the upper While the wipers are holding the imember in that relation.
43. A device for holding an end portion of an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole comprising a member formed to extend around the end of the shoe bottom in engagement with the upper over the marginal portion of the sole and having normally a' len hwise contour approximating that of the edge of the end portion of the shoe bottom, said member being yicldable and resilient in directions laterally of the shoe and so con structed as to permit it to be engaged by the edges of end-embracing wipers of a lasting machinc'to force it inwardly over the shoe bottom both lengthwlse and laterally of the shoe, the member also having holes extending through it in such relation thereto as to permil; a fastening oi: fastenings to be driven approximately at the end of that portion of the shoe bottom to which itis applied and other fastenings at the sides of the shoe bottom while the wipers are holding the member against the upper to secure it in pressure applying relation to the upper. 77
44. A defvice adapted to be applied to the margin of the toe end of an upper which overlies the outer face of a sole in siibstantiah ly parallel relation to said face to hold the margin of the upper in lasted posit-ion, comprising a member permanently preformed substantially in accordance with the edge coutonr of the toe end of the shoe bottom for engagement continuously around the toe with a substantial portion of the width of the ma rgin of the upper but at a distance from the edge of the Tripper and so constructed as to permit it to be secured in position to press the upper against the margin of the sole by a fastening or fastenings driven through it approximately at the end of the toe and by other fastenings driven fart-her rearwardly at the "sides of the toe.
45. A devicerfor holding the toe portion of an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole, comprising a sheet-metal member formed to extend around the toe end of the shoe bottom and having different portions in angular relation to each other, one arranged to engage the upper over the marginal portion of the sole and the other inclined outwardly over said first-mentioned portion in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom, said member having in its first-mom tio'ned portion a plurality of holes extending tions arranged in angular relation to each other and of uninterrupted extent substantially throughout the length of the member for engagingportions of the upper over the margin and opposite the lip or shoulder of the sole respectively and adapted to be pressed against the upper in said angle by a wiper of a lasting machine, said member being so formed as to permit fastenings to be driven through it and into the shoe in locations be tween the edge of the wiper and that portion of the member which'is opposite the lip or shoulder of the sole while the wiper is holding the member pressed against the upper.
47. A toe binder for holding the toe portion of an upper in lasted position over the margin of asole and against a lip or shoulder on the sole'comprising a member formed to extend around the toe end of the shoe bottom and having a portion thereof arranged to engage the apper over the margin of the sole and another portion upstanding in angular relation to the first to engage the upper opposite the lip or shoulder of the sole; said member having in its first-mentioned portion a plurality of holes arranged to receive tacks driven near the end of the toe and farther rearwardly at the sides of the toe for securing the member to the shoe and having in its upstanding portion substantially in line with said holes recesses arranged to receive the shanks of said tacks and formed to provide curved seats for the heads of the tacks in clamping relation to the member.
48. A toe binder having two diverging arms'connected by a permanently curved portion, the arms and the curved portion being angular in cross section and comprising an uninterrupted substantially plane member and a flange upstanding therefrom, the plane member being provided with holes positioned near the ends of the arms and at or near the curved portion, and the upstanding flange being being provided with recesses in alinement with the holes.
49. A toe binder having two diverging arms connected by a curved portion, the arms and the curved portion being angular in cross section and comprising a substantially plane member and an upstanding portion having a face inclined outwardly over said plane member, the plane member being provided with holes positioned approximately at the ends of the arms and at or near the curved portion, and the upstanding portion having recesses in its outwardly inclined face in alinement with said holes.
50. A toe binder having two diverging arms connected by a curved portion, the arms and the curved portion being angular in cross section and comprising a substantially plane member and an upstanding portion having a face inclined outwardly over said plane member, the plane member being provided with holes located substantially adjacent to said outwardly inclined face, and the upstanding portion having in said face recesses in alinement with the holes and extending in substantially perpendicular relation to the plane member.
51. A device for holding the toe portion of an u; per in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole comprising a preformed member having two arms connected by a permanentlv curved portion and adapted to engage the upper over the marginal portion of the sole around the toe end of the shoe bottom and to be pressed against the upper heightwise of the toe by the toe-embracing wlpers of a lasting machine, said member havmg means thereon arrange: to be engaged by the edges of the wipers to position the member in proper relation to the shoe and being so constructed as to permit fastenings to be driven through it in different locations opposite the edges of the wipers to secure the member in pressure-applying relation to the upper. I
52. A. device for holding the toe portion of an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole comprising a member formed to extend around the toe end of the shoe bottom over the marginal portion of the upper and having normally a lengthwise contour approximating that of the edge of the toe end of the shoe bottom, said member having a portion thereof arranged to be engaged by the edges of the toe-embracing wipers of a lasting machine to force the member inwardly over the shoe bottom and being so constructed as to permit fastenings to be driven in locations opposite and close to the edges of the wipers t?) fasten it in holding relation to the upper.
A device for holding the toe portion of an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole comprising a member formed to extend around the toe end of the shoe bottom over the marginal portion of the upper and having normally a lengthwise contour approximating that of the edge of the toe end of the shoe bottom, said member being angular in cross-section to provide an uninterru'pted'portion arranged to face the margin of the sole and an upstanding portion, said firstmentioned portion of the member having a plurality of openings therein arranged to receive fastenings driven into the shoe and the upstanding portion being provided in one side thereof with a plurality of recesses substantially in alinenient with said openings to receive portions of the fastenings.
ii device for holding the toe portion of an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole comprising a member adapted to be applied in engagement with the upper over the toe end of the shoe bottom, said member being angular in cross-section to provide an upstanding portion arranged to be engaged by the edges of the toe-embracing tion formed to extend from said upstanding portion outwardly toward the edge of the shoe bottom and also to extend uninterruptedly along said upstanding portion to engage the upper continuously all around the toe, the member having a plurality of openings therein arranged to receive fastenings driven in locations opposite the edges of the vipers to fasten the member to the shoe.
.5 wipers of a lasting machine and another por- 55. A device for holding the toe portion of an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole comprising a member adapted to be applied in engagement with the upper over the toe end of the shoe bottom, said member being angular in cross-section to provide an upstanding portion arranged to be engaged by the edges of the toe-embracing wipers of a lasting machine and another portion arranged to extend from said upstanding portion outwardly toward the edge of the shoe bottom and to engage the upper continuously around the toe, the outwardly extending portion of the member having a pinrality of holes therein arranged to receive fastenings driven in locations opposite the edges of the wipers to fasten the member to the shoe and the upstanding portion of the member having in its outer face recesses substantially in alinement with said holes to re ceire portions of the fastenings.
56. A device for holding the toe portion of an upper in lasted position over the marginal portion of a sole comprising a member adapted to be app-lied over the toe end of the shoe bottom in engagement with the upper and having a portion thereof arranged to be positionet in front of the edges of the toe-embracing wipers of a lasting machine, the member having in the outer face of that portion thereof a plurality of recesses open toward the edges of the wipers to receive fastenings for securing the member in holding relation to the upper.
57. A device for holding the toe portion of an upper in lasted position over the marginal portlon of a sole comprising a member adapted to be applied over the toe end of the shoe bottom in engagement with the upper, said member being angular in cross-section to provide a. portion arranged to face the margin of the sole and an upstanding portion, the upstanding portion having in one face thereof a plurality of laterally open recesses arranged to extend from the top thereof downwardly toward the shoe to receive the shanks of tacks driven with their heads in clamping relation to the member.
In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.
JOSEPH FAUSSE.
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