US1742501A - Manufacture of shoes - Google Patents

Description

Jan. 7, 1930. GODDU 1,742,501

MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Original Filed July 3, 1924 l atented Jan. 7,

UNETED STATES PATENT op-me GEORGE GODDU, OF WINCHESTER, ,MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO THE LITTLEWAY PROCESS COMPANY, OF LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION OF MASSAGHU- SETTS MANUFAcTiIRn F snons Application filed July 3, 1924, serial This invention relates to the manufacture of shoes, and in some of its important aspects has more particular reference to the manufacture of shoes of that type having an insole and an outsole and in whichthe outsole is secured directly to the margin of the upper overlying the insole by suitable means, as by through: and-through stitches penetrating, at least, at the time of their insertion, to the inside of the shoe. Ina co-pending application Serial No. 721,007,1i1ed on June 19, 1924;, I disclosed and claimed a novel method of making shoesof this typeihavingfor an object to effect economies in the-production of such shoes and, at the same time to provide shoes of, superior quality by dispensing with side lasting tacks either as permanent parts of the shoes or as temporary fastenings;' In accordance with the procedure illustrated and describedin that application, the insole was provided with a lip on its outer oi bottom face; either; by channeling it or by securing to it a piece of material such as canvas tape, andin the progressive'lasting of the sides of the shoe the upper was fastened to the lip by fine wire staples. 'Iheshoecould thus be made with-Q out the extraoperations involvedin the use of temporary lasting tacks andwithout the" delay required in waiting for the. upperto' set in lasted shape whensuch tacksi are used. The shoe, moreover, was of snperio qaality, since the upper was secured permanently; its original lasted condition to the insole hy' fastenings of such a character and so applied as not to penetrate to theinner' face of the; insole nor to detract appreciably from the flexibility ofthesh oe; p

The present invention, in one important aspect, 'has in view still furtherec onomies and improvements in the manufacture} of shoes of the ahove-mentioned type. It lis sometimes desired, for I purposes of economy or in order to providea more fleizible fshomi to use an jinso'le whichisso thfin of offsuchi quality thatit cannot be provided with a' channel lipwhi ch will successfully withstand the strain of the upper if the upper is'iffa'sten'ed to it in the'las'ting of the shoe. f LikQJViSQjf r the sake of economyor for other reasons, may not be desired'toattach a tape to the in- No. 724,125. Renewed :iui 5, i929.

vides for anchoring'th-em by directing them in curved paths within the-substance ofthe insole, In accordance: with the procedure herein ilhi'st'ratedthe fastenings are curved insucli manner that their points are directed reversely, toward the outer or bottom face ofthe insole withont penetration. of its inner net. The article ottheifasteningis' thus iiisert,-, 1 my: 0 m l st 11 52 tem t e e; r b tt m a e;qt hein le sinee iii either e; e n i i ly em dded infi fcbv d y the shoe bottom materials after the outsole hasheen applied.

wnr nanyoflitsaspects antenna is not limited astothe character of thefast-en lngs ut'lize'cl', it is' considered preferable to" use fine w re staples, since iasteningsof that character] have been found amply effective for holding the upper-i i lasted position and" at the same time do not d tract appreciably from the flexibility of the shoe nor are otherwise objectionable as permanent parts of the shoe'.- a a H me e ifiventid isillustrated and def ribedw h 'part i le ref e to he menufacture of shoes of thetypehereinbefore mentioned, "it is consideredthat in Various s ects,t iiii v ht e maybe ufi li edtbad.

v tage intheinaniifactdr of shoes gr a tim kinds nd the m .its'q i cc rd-.- inglyjqsedin many of the claimsin ageneric se se to designate that part to which the upper is fastened in lasting; whether it be, the insole ofsome kinds of shoes or in other kinds of shoes the singlesole or the outsole."

The invention will now he more particu larly set forth hy reference to the accornpanying drawings and thereafter pointed out in the claims. For convenience the drawings illustrate the practice of the method by the aid of operating instrumentalities which form part of a machine organization fully shown and described in my co-pending application Serial No. 724,136 filed on J uly 3, 1924, although it is to be understood that the invention is not dependent upon the use of instrumentalities of the particular character herein shown. I

In the drawings- Figs. 1, 2, 3 and 4 illustrate different steps of the method;

Fig. 5 is a perspective view of a portion of the side of a shoe after lasting;

. Fig. 6 isa cross-sectional view of a portion of the shoe after the fastening of the outsole to the insole, and

Fig. 7 illustrates more clearly on an enlarged scale the shape of the'staple in the shoe.

It will be understood that prior to the operations illustrated in Fig. 1 theinsole a and the upper materials Z) are assembled on the last, and in accordance with the usual practice the upperv may then be pulled over at the toe and fastened by the pulling-over tacks. Thereafter the sides of the shoe are lasted by subjecting different portions of the upper materials along the sides to lasting strain and fastening them in lasted position on the outer face of the insole. In practising the method by the aid of the instruinentalities herein shown the upper is pulled by a gripper 2, first heightwise of the last and then inwardly over the insole, the shoe beingpositioned for these operations by the aid of a sole rest t and anedge gage 6. Thereafter the upper, while held yieldingly by the gr1pper, 1s pressed down upon the outer face of the insole, as illustrated in Fig. 2,.by overlaying means comprising a staple guiding member 8 and a staple deflector 10 which are moved as a unit in a direction inclined to the plane of the insole to wrap the upper aboutthe edge of the insole under lasting strain and to lay a portion of its margin in parallel relation to the outer face of the insole. l Vhile the upper is held under lasting strain, as herein illustrated both by the gripper 2 and by the pressure of theoverlaying means, a staple 0 of fine wire is driven through a portion of the upper which is in the line of the lasting strain by a staple driver 12 movable ma guldeway in the member 8. 'Figs. 3 and 4 illustrate successive stages in the driving of the staple into the shoe materials. The staple utilized has I substantially straight leg portions, as

shown in Fig. 2, and the driver 12 moves in a direction or line-atthe same angle to the plane of the lnsole asthe direction of the overlaying pressure applied by the members 8 and 10. The memberlO is in the pathof the legs of the staple thus driven and is so shaped and arranged as to act upon different portions of the legs of the staple successively before the different respective portions enter the shoe materials to bend or deflect them in a positively predetermined degree out of the line of drive in planes herein illustrated as substantially perpendicular to the cross-bar of the staple, in such manner as to cause the legs of the staple to enter the shoe materials in substantially perpendicular relation to the plane of the insole and then to take curved paths in the materials. As herein shown the legs of the staple are bent throughout substantially their entire lengths in arcs of such radius that without penetrating to the inner face of the insole their ends are directed reversely toward its outer face, the legs forming substantially half circles in the shoe. In accordance with the practice herein illustrated the legs of the staples are turned outwardly toward the edge of the shoe bottom from the points where they enter the insole.

It will be understood that after these operations have been performed in one location, theshoe is moved along to a different locationand the same lasting operations are repeated. In this manner the sides of the shoe arelasted progressively, the upper being fastened securely andpermanently in lasted position by the staples without opportunity for it to relax between the upper pulling and the fastening operations. It will be observed that thestaples are driven into a portion of the insole, herein termed the intact substance thereofwhich has not been weakened by any channel or other incision nor forms a projection from the'body of the insole, and that secure anchorage for the legs of the staples is thus afforded. By reason of the accurate predetermination of the curvature of the legs of the staples independently of resistance of thesho'e materials, it is feasible to utilize a comparatively thin and flexible insole without penetration of the fastenin 's entirely through the insole.

' After the sides of the shoe have thus been lasted, the toe and heel ends may be lasted in the usual manner, and thereafter the out sole dis applied and subjected to the usual sole laying pressure. If desired also a filler 6 may be inserted between the insole and the outsole, as illustrated. After the sole laying operation the last is removed and the outsole is secured to the insole by through-and-through stitches f located between the row of staples and the edge of the insole.

It will be appreciated that, among its different advantages,the invention effects substantialleconomies in that-the operations incidental to the provisionand use of a lip on the insole are dispensed with, while at the same time the manner of fastening the upper to the insole in shoes in which the upper, the insole and the outsole are in the relation to one another hereinillustrated is such as to avoid the presence of clinched metallic fastenings on the inner face of the insole in the locations of the side lasting tacks commonly used heretofore in shoes of that type] The fact, moreover, that the upper is fastened under lasting strain to the intact substance of the insole contributes to the superior quality of the shoe by reason of the additional insurance afiorded against any obj ectionable relaxation or displacement of the tensioned upper prior to the outsole securing operation. A further very advantageous characteristic of the shoe is that the ends of the metallic fastenings are directed reversely toward the outsole, so that there is no danger in the wear of the shoe that the ends of these fastenings may work up into the interior of the shoe.

The herein-disclosed novel method of fastening per se and the product thereof are claimed in a divisional application, Serial No. 291,881 filed on July 11, 1928.

Having described the invention and set forth fully how the method may be practised, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States 1s:

1. The method of making shoes which comprises subjecting an upper to lasting strain to shape it over a last and to position it in lasted relation to a sole on the last, and while holding the upper under the lasting strain securing it initially yet permanently in lasted position by inserting a fastening through the upper and the outer face of the sole in a direction transverse to the plane of the sole and anchoring the fastening in the intact substance of the sole without penetrating the inner face of the sole.

2. The method of making shoes which comprises pulling an upper successively in different locations along the sides of a shoe and laying it inwardly over the margin of the sole in lasted position, and after each of the upper pulling and overlaying operations securing the portion of the upper which is under lasting strain to the sole by insertlng a fastening through the upper and the plane bottom face of the sole into the intact sub stance of the sole and anchoring the fastening in said intact substance of the sole by directing it in a predetermined curved path before it arrives in position to penetrate the inner face of the sole.

3. The method of making shoes which comprises subjecting an upper to lasting strain to shape it over a last and to position it in lasted relation to a sole on the last, and while holding the upper under the lasting strain fastening it initially yet permanently to the sole by inserting a fastening substantially in the line of strain through the upper and into the sole and anchoring the fastening by directing it in a predetermined curved path beforeiit arrives in position to emerge from the sole.

4. The method of makingrshoes" which comprises pulling different portions .of an upper successively over aIlast andfastening 1 the upper to a sole on the .last in each location where. the pull is applied, beforepu'lling the upper in a different location, by inserting a fine wire staplethrough a portion of the upper located substantially in the line of the pulling strain 'and into the sole and anchoring the staple in the-intact substance of the sole by directing its legs in predetermined curved paths before they. arrivein position to emerge from-the sole.

5. The method of making shoes :which comprises subjecting different portions of an upper successively to lasting strain to shape the upper over a last and'to position it in lasted relation toa sole on the last,.a:nd

while holding each of said portions of the upper under lasting strainfastening it, be-

fore applying the strainin thenext lasting location, by inserting a staple through the upper and into thesole in a di-rectiontrans "verse to theplane of the sole and anchoring by curving its legs in the intact substance of the sole to direct their ends reversely: toward the outer *face' of the :sole without penetrating-its inner face. l

7. The method of making shoes which comprises subjecting different portions of an upper successively to lasting strain to shape the upper over a last and to position it in lasted relation to a sole on the last, and while holding each of said portions of the upper under lasting strain fastening it initially yet permanently to the sole by inserting a metallic fastening through the upper and into the sole and anchoring the fastening by directing it in a path curved in predetermined degree from the point where it enters the sole.

8. The method of making shoes which comprises pulling an upper over a last and laying it inwardly over the outer face of a sole on the last by pressure applied in a direction inclined to the plane of the sole, and while holding'the upper by said pressure securing it to the sole by driving a fastening in a direction also inclined to the plane of the sole and curving the fastening as it'is driven to anchor it within the intact substance of the sole Without penetrating the inner face of the sole.

' 9. The method of making shoes of a type having an insole and an outsole, which 5 comprises subjecting the upper in difierent locations successively along the sides of the shoe to lasting strain and securing it while under the lasting strain in each of said locations, before subjecting it to strain in another location, by'inserting a metallic fastening through the upper and the outer face of the insole and anchoring the fastening in the intact substance of the insole without penetrating to the inner face of the insole, 5 and thereafter applying the outsole over the insole and securing it directly to the margin of the upper overlying the insole.

10. The method of making shoes of a type having an insole and an outsole, which comprises subjecting the upper in different locations successively along the sides of the shoe to lasting strain and securing it while under the lasting strain in each of said locations by inserting a staple through the upper and the outer face of the insole and anchoring the staple within the intact substance of the insole by curving its legs substantially throughout their lengths in-such degree as to direct their ends reverse-1y toward theouter face of the insole, and thereafter applying the outsole over the. insole and securing it to the insole by through-andthrough stitches. I

11. That improvement in methods of 113 making shoes which consists in conforming an unlasted upper to the shape of a last and, while holding it so conformed, initially yet permanently fastening it to a sole by metallic fastenings anchored in the sole by de- 40 flection thereof effected entirely at that side of the work wherethe fastenings enter it. In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification;

GEORGE GODDU.

Images