US1720848A - Fold-over collar and method of making the same - Google Patents

Description

July 16, 1929. j, McKAY 1,720,848

FowovgR COLLAR AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed March 1923 3 Sheets-Sheet l July 16; 1929. J. McKAY 1,720,848

FOLDOVER COLLAfi AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed March 1, 1923 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 J. M KAY July 16, 1929.

FOLDOVER COLLAR AND METHOD OE MAKING THE SAME Filed March 1, 1923 a Sheets-Sheet 3 jwevii'or': i

Patented July 16, 1929.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

JosEPHiMcKAY, OF TROY, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR T0 HALL, HARTWELL & 00., INQ, OF

TROY, NEW YORK, A CORPORATION OF NEW YORK.

FOLD-OVER COLLAR AND METHOD OF MAKING THE'SAME.

Application filed March 1, 1923.

This invention relates to collars of the fold-over type and to a method of making such collars.

Principal objects of the invention are to produce a collar of the class referred to characterized by superior accuracy of shape and size, by extreme simplicity of structure, and by eificiency in respect to retaining its shape in use. Collars of the kind improved may have their principal parts made of laminae of cloth in a sufficient number of layers to give the required thickness, or of a lesser number of layers or one layer of thick, heavy inherently stiff fabric, such as pique, vesting cloth, or other double or multiple ply woven fabric, canvas, duck, or other cloths of suitable teXture familiar to weavers and cloth merchants from which collars have heretofore been constructed from blanks suitably finished at the edges to achieve the required shape.

It is ancient practice in making collars to cut out cloth blanks to the required form, and then to turn over the edges uniformly with the aid of the blank-turning and pressing machines of common knowledge, which operate to turn over and press the folds. It is difficult and impracticable to edge-turn in one operation on the customary machines and by the customary operations a blank having a concavity of edge-contour of small radius or a sharp reentrant angle. such as an integral blank having top, band and endtabs. On the other hand, the operations of turning and pressing the edge-fold on the familiar machine tools for performing such operations are simply and efficiently performed in one rapid operation when dealing with a blank of convex or straight or slightly concave edge-contour.

Whether a collar is made of a shaped blank of fabric of suflicient thickness in one layer, as in the cloths mentioned above, or is made of a shaped blank cut from overlaid separate layers of relatively thinner cloth (hereinafter indiiferently referred to as a blank) its capacity to remain in shape under laundering operations and to maintain its finished laundered appearance in use depends in large measure upon the relatively stiff edge-fold structures made by the overturned folds of the material. According to this invention edge folds are so constructed and placed in the collar as there to provide Serial No. 622,185.

stiffening members tending to hold the col lar in shape when in use. A subordinate object of the invention is, therefore, to so concatenate the edge structures of the collar in relation to the shapes of its parts as to constitute efiicient stiffening members taking the duty of supporting the collar against rumpling, creasing and the other distortions and disfigurements of wear. The collar about to be described, having the features above alluded to, is by these features enabled to be made by operations of extreme simplicity; and characteristic collars, whatever their more design as to shape of the band portion and the top portion, and particularly as to the shape of the overhanging ends or flaps (which vary completely with the demand of the moment or the fashions of the day) may well be and preferably are made with the principal portion of the band and all of the top of one blank of uniform fabric of a shape adapted when folded to constitute the principal parts of the desired completed garment. The invention also provides for separately-formed conjoined end tabs adapted to constitute the attachment ends of the band, and further to aid in keeping the collar in shape.

The invention will now be described with the aid of illustration of one species exemplifying the genus of the invention, as shown in the accompanying drawings, in which:

Fig. 1 is a plan, parts being broken away, of a blank constituting the principal part of the collar. including a portion of the band and all of the top;

Fig. 2 is a similar view showing the edges of the blank shown in Fig. 1 overcast;

Fig. 3 is a view of one end of the blank shown in Fig. 1 edge-turned and stitched, representing the condition of the entire blank;

Fig. 4 is a plan view of a tab blank having an interlining blank assembled therewith:

Fig. 5 is a view of the assembled tab and inter-lining blank machine turned;

Fig. 6 is a view of the tab blank of Fig. a folded upon itself in the middle and stitched, to constitute a tab;

Fig. 7 is a view similar to Fig. 3, showing one of the tabs of Fig. 6 positioned ready for attachment to the remainder of the collar;

Fig. 8 shows the attachment of the tab of the collar completed by sewing;

Fig. 9 is a plan partly broken away of a complete collar, the figure illustratingin respect to the position of the collar in use, the exterior face of the band and interior face of the top prior to folding the collar;

Fig. 10 is a perspective view of the collar positioned as in use;

Fig. 11 is a perspective View of the interior of the collarlooking toward the front closure;

Fig. 12 is a section on the line 1212 of Fig. 10; and

Fig. 13 is a section of the left-hand end of the collar on line 13-13 of Fig. 11.

The useful structure of collars made according to this invention can best be understood in connection with mention of the steps taken in the manufacture of a typical collar such as that shown in the drawings. Referring now to Fig. 1, a suitable blank 1 of the desired form is cut from an extent of uniform fabric. This fabric may be one of the thick. heavy fabrics, such as a canvas, pique, or double-cloth built up by stitching "together two 01' more layers of fabric in the loom. or it may be a multiply or multi layer fabric made up by superposing one or more layers of thinner cloth, or it may consist of laminae, an inner layer or layers of which are of different texture from the outer layers, all as known in the prior art and therefore not necessary to be specifically illustrated except by the typical structure shown in Figs. 1, 12 and 13.

The blank 1 is of sufficient size and suitable shape to provide a top portion 2 and the band portion 3, and whatever the decorative shape of the edges of the top portion, for example the corners 4, 4, I prefer to provide that the remaining corners 5, 5, shall be smooth convex curves of relatively large radius. r

I now treat the blank 1 in such a way as to prevent it from raveling at the edge, and to prevent its plies from separatingif it is a laminated blank. While any of the known ways of treating Zblanks to protect their edges will serve, I prefer the sewed overcast stitches 6, as shown in Fig. 2, which can be rapidly carried around the edge of the rounded blank 1.

Referring now to Fig. 3,. the completed blank is now placed in a suitable edge-turn- 7 ing machine, or by hand edge-turned once.

It will be observed that the blank 1 at this stage, see Fig. 3, is without any portion which could be overlapped to constitute the closure at the front of the collar. This is in order to utilize the advantage of the blank which has been described, which by its mere shape provides material for the greater part of the band and all of the top. and which by the simple operations hereincL Ve d b has been provided with the finished edges 9 for the bottom of the band 8 and for the ends of the top portion, and with the edge structure 10, Fig. 3, which is exceedingly .rigid in the direction of; the plane of the right hand tab 12 and the interior or left.

hand tab 13. provided with the usual button holes 14, 14, are separately-formed structures preferably machine folded to accurate gauge and then assembled with the remainder of the collar, for certain advantages presently.adverted to.

Referring now to Fig. 4, the tab 12 may have its exterior portions, both inner and outer, made from a single blank 16 preferably of cloth having the same surface texture as the blank 1, but which maybe, if desired, and which customarily is, a thinnercloth than the cloth for the blanks 1. The preferred form of theblank 16 for the tab 12 is that shown in Fig. 4, which it will be observed is a form symmetrical in respect to its centralvertieal line. According to thepreferred mode of manufacture an interlining blank 17 of any desired stiffness is cut out on .the same contour as one-half of the blank 16, is laid upon the blank 16, and may be attached to it by a dab of paste. The composite blank 16, 17, see Fig. 5, is now edge-turned all around; folded, with the inturns within. on the center line 18; and stitched at 19. V

The tab 13 differs fromthe tab 12 only in its size and shape, and is made from simi-;

lar blanks by the same operations.

In order to complete the collar of Fig. 9, the blanks 12 and 13, see Fig. 7, are laid 1 that face ofthe blank ltoward which the margins have been infolded, and attached by sewing the lines of stitches 20 and 21, which are preferably continuous lines of stitches extending all around the margins of the blank 1. The tab 12 (or 13) is now'further attached to the band portion 3 of the blank 1 by sewing the lines of stitches 22.

The blank 13 is attached to the other end of the band portion 3 of the blank 1 by ex actly similar steps including sewing the lines of stitches 22 outlining the overlapped margin of the tab. Button holes 14 in the tabs and the button hole 7 at the back of the collar may now' be formed by usual steps to complete the collar. The band of the collar is thus comprised in greater part of one part 3 of the blank 1, extended and continued by the tabs 12 and 13.

Certain advantages of the described structure will now be apparent. Vithin limits the style of the collar and the measured size of the collar (where it is not important to have the edges of the top meet in front) may be varied by applying to like blanks 1 different tabs 12 and 13, these tabs differing only in height or in length. The collar naturally folds over on a line determined by the tops of the tabs 12 and 13, and this fold may be formed in laundering, or made by hand by the wearer. The reentrant angle a; at the juncture of tab and band is a perfect structure comprised of the crossing in different planes of the top edge of the inturned, and therefore perfectly finished, tab structure 12 or 13 and the onceturned and perfectly finished edges 8 at the ends of the top portion 2 of the blank 1.

Referring to Figs. 11 and 13, the exceedingly stiff over-turned, curved edges 10, reinforced by the tabs 12 and 13, when the collar is fastened about the neck constitute virtual stiffening struts supporting the front edges of the collar above the button holes let in a superior and eflicient manner. The whole region at the front of the collar is supported by the superior stiffness of the tabs 12 and 13. Being separate pieces the tabs 12 and 13 can be attached to the blank 1 with meticulous accuracy in regard to the angle of the upper edge with respect to the general contour of the blank. This is of great importance, since, as will be clear upon inspection of Figs. 10 and 11, the posi tion of the upper edge of tab 12 within the fold of the other end of the collar, in con nection with the attached position of tab B, determines the alignment of the over-folded edges of the collar at the front of the neck.

Collars made according to this invention may be worn wholly unstarched, lightly starched or heavily starched, and in each case with good effect.

WVhat I claim is:

1. A collar having an end-tab adapted to form a collar band projection and formed from an integral symmetrically shaped edgeinturned blank folded on its line of symmetry and sewed together around its edges.

2. A collar having an end-tab adapted to form a collar band projection and formed from an integral symmetrically shaped edgeinturned blank folded on its line of symmetry and an enclosed lining, the end-tab being sewed together around its edges.

Signed by me at Troy, Rensselaer county,- New York, this 21st day of February, 1923.

JOSEPH MoKAY.

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