US1696893A

US1696893A - Bttttonholb-bbwino machine

Info

Publication number: US1696893A
Authority: US
Priority date: 1927-06-20
Publication date: 1928-12-25
Anticipated expiration: 1945-12-25
Also published as: GB285710A; DE512205C; FR638653A

Description

Dec. 25, 1928.

J. KIEWICZ BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed May 9, 1927 4 Sheets-Sheet \nvenTor. \John K i ewicg bW MrM Alfys,

4o objects of my present invention is to provide Patented Dee. 25,1928.

UNITED STATES JOHN KI-EWICZ, OI BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS,

ASSIGNOR TO THE BEECE BUTTON HOLE MACHINE COMPANY, OF 'BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION OF MAINE.

BUTTONHOLE-REWING' MACHINE. I

Application fled Kay 8,-

This invention relates to buttonhole sewing machines of that type adapted to sew a buttonhole with an eye at one end and it has particular reference to means for forming the bar at the end of the button hole Opposite tothe eye. This bar is sometimes formed by a line of stitching extending lengthwise of the buttonhole and beyond the buttonhole slit.

In some sewing machines which have been heretofore employed for forming a buttonhole with this type of bar the cam by which the stitch-forming mechanism and. workholding means are positioned for forming the bar, and which may .be referred to as a barring cam, has been formed as an integral part of the main cam which controls the feeding of the work during the stitching and the lateral shifting of the work necessary to form the eye of the buttonhole,- and has been without any adjustment for different lengths of buttonholes. Each machine, therefore, has been adapted to make a bar ofthis type on a buttonhole of one size only and if it is desired to make a bar of this type on a different size of buttonhole it has been necessary to build another machine especially adapted for such other size.

It has also been proposed to provide a sewing machine adapted to sew a buttonhole having the aboveqnentioned type of bar with w a removable and interchangeable cam by which the length of the buttonhole is determined. With this type of sewing machine there will be one of these interchangeable cams for each length of buttonhole and when- 'ever it is desired ,to change the length of buttonhole it is necessary toremove the cam from the machine and replace it byanother, cam of the roper construction to make a buttonhole of the length desired. One of the an improvement in buttonhole sewing machines of the type adapted to sew a buttonhole with a bar at one end extending in the di rection of the length of the buttonhole, by which buttonholes of different lengths may. be sewedwithout the necessity of removing any part of the machine and replacingitb another part and simply by making an a justment of the parts in the machine, the i 1927. Serial No. 189,792.

same parts being used for buttonholes of dif ferent lengths y merely being adjusted as to their position.

In carrying out my invention I provide a barring cam which is separate from the main cam and which is associated with the adjustment by which the len th of the buttonhole is determined so that w enever adjustment is made to give a longer or shorter buttonhole the barrlng cam is simultaneously adjusted to produce properly the desired ar on the longer or shorter buttonhole.

Another object of the invention is to provide an Improved structure for forming a bar of the, a ove ty e which is so constructed that the length of t e bar may be changed or adwsted without adjusting the. length of the buttonhole.

Another object of the invention is to provide a buttonhole sewing machine of this type which is constructed so that the barring mechanism can be rendered inoperative if it is desired to sew an unfinished buttonhole without the bar.

In order to give an understanding of the & invention I have illustrated in the-drawings a selected embodiment thereof which will now be described after which the novel features will be pointed out in the appended claims.

Fig. 1 is a side view of a sewing machine so embodying my'invention;

Fi 2 is a bottom plan view of the bed and of t e frame carrying the stitch-forming mechanism; V

Fig. 3 is a fragmentary view showing the an adjustment for the length of the buttonhole Fig. 4 is a view of the barring cam;

.Fig. 5 is a view of the under side of the. maincamy Fig. 6 is a view of the upperside of the no main cam showing the feeding cam groove;

Fig. -7 is a f'ra mentary sectional view showing the controlling means bywhich the length of the buttonhole is determined; ig. 8 is a fragmentary'sectional view showing the position of the

pins

47, 48 during these'wing around the eye of the buttonhole'; Fig. 9 is a section on the line 9+9, Fi 2; Fig. 10 indicates a partially-comp eted buttonhole'; y

ent lengths formed 4 this is formed by and work-holding means are given a Figs. 11 and 12 show buttonholes of difi'erwith a bar; Fig. 13 shows a buttonhole without the bar- Fig. 1a shows a buttonhole with a short bar.

Figs. 10 to '12 show the well known type of buttonhole such as is made by the. machine to which the present invention relates and in said figures 1 is the buttonhole slit having at one end the

eye

2, and 3 and 4 indicate the side stitching along the sides of the button hole, this stitching being carried around the eye 2.as shown at 5, all as usual in buttonholes of this type. The end of the buttonhole opposite the eye 2 is provided with a bar 6 and one or two lines of

stitching

7, 8 which extend in the direction of the length of the buttonhole and are more or less superposed on each other, these lines of stitching being usually in the line .of the buttonhole slitl.

In sewing a buttonhole of this type the stitching usually begins at the point 9, (see Fig. 1-O) and during the firstfeedingmovement the barring stitches 7 are formed. When the point 10 has been reached the work-holding means and stitch-forming mechanism are iven arelativelateral movement so that as the ceding movement is continued the stitches 3 along one side of the buttonhole will be formed. When the eye end of the buttonhole has been reached the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means are given a back and forth lateral movement and at the same time the stitch-forming mechanism is turned about a vertical axis thereby forming the stitches 5 around the eye 2. The stitchforming mechanism and work-holding means are then given a reverse feeding movement to form the stitches a along the opposite side of the buttonhole and when the point 10 has been reached the stitch-forming mechanism relative lateral movement so that durin the continued feeding movement the barring stitches 8 are formed which are more or less superposed on the barring stitches 7. This produces the bar 6 at which extends in the direction of. the length of the buttonhole.

As stated above some sewing machines of the above-mentioned type are constructed so that each machine can only sew a buttonhole of a single size while other machines have been constructed to provide for changing the length of the buttonhole by'removing some part of the machine and substituting-another part of a different shape. My present invention aims to provide means whereby buttonholes of different sizes and having the abovementioned type of bar may be'sewed on the same machine without removin any parts and simply by making proper a justment of the parts already on the machine.

the end of the buttonhole My present invention provides means whereby buttonholes of ditierent sizes having this type of bar may be sewed on thesame machine by making proper adjustments.

The work-holding means and the stitchforming mechanismof the sewing machine herein illustrated are such as are commonly found in buttonhole sewing machines of this type. The work-holding means comprises the usual work clamps 11 which are pivotally mounted and adapted to clamp the work against clamp plates 12 that are supported on the bed 13 of the sewing machine. The stitchforming mechanism comprises the usual needle 14.- operating from above the work and the usual under thread situated beneath the bed plate and which is mounted on a turret 15 and which co-operates with the needle to concatenate the edge stitches around the buttonhole.

The stitch-forming mechanism is mounted .on and carried by a head or frame 16 and is actuated from the drive shaft 17 journalled in said head all as usual insewing machines of this type. For convenience I will refer to the frame 16 on which the stitch-forming mechanism is mounted as the stitch-frame and will refer to the bed 13 on which the work-holding means is mounted as the workframe.

The relative movement between the stitchforming mechanism and work-holding means is secured by moving the stitch frame 16 on the bed or work-frame of the machine all as shown in United States Patents No. 488,028, December 13th, 1892, and No. 494,280, March 28th, 1893. The stitch frame 16 carrying the stitch-forming mechanism has rigid therewith a cam casing 18 in which is rotatably mounted the main cam. 19 by which the operations of the machine are controlled, one of the functions of this cam being to give back and forth feeding movement to the stitch frame 16. .For this purpose the main cam has a feed groove 20 therein in which operates a roll carried by the lower end of a pin 21 that handling mechanism is fast to the bed frame or work-frame 13, the Y construction being such that as the cam 19 rotates said cam and consequently the stitch frame 16 isgiven a bodily back and forth movement all as more fully set forth in the above-mentioned patents.

In the'operation of butto-nhole machines of this type the machine is brought to rest at the end of a cycle of operations with the parts in buttonhole cutting position and when the machine is set in operation the cam 19 is given its initial movement by a high speed driving mechanism during which movement the stitch frame 16 is shifted from buttonhole cutting tostitching position, When. stitchin position has been reached the high speed riving mechanism is disconnected from the cam 19 and the clutch controlling the driving shaft 17 is engaged thereby setting said shaft in op- 13o anism. At this time the cam 19 is rotated at a slower rate of speed from the shaft 17, said cam giving the stitch frame 16 the necessary movements to cause the stitching to be formed around the buttonhole.

During the sewing around the eye of the buttonhole the stitch-forming mechanism is turned about a vertical axis by mechanism similar to that shown in Patent No. 655,637,

dated August 7th, 1900. This comprises a lever 56 pivoted to the gear casing 18 at 110 and connected by a link 111 to an arm 112 fast on a rock shaft 113. This rock shaft has fast on it two

gear sectors

114, 115 which mesh with gears 116 on the turret 15 and 117 on the carrier for theupper needle 14. This lever 56 has a follower 119 operating in a cam groove 118 in the under side of the cam 19 all as illustrated in said patent, said cam causing the stitch-forming mechanism to make a rotation at each end of the button'hole.

During the stitching around the eye of the buttonhole the head 'or stitch frame 16 is given a back and forth lateral movement toform the eye by means similar to that shown in the various patents above referred to, such ing pulley 22 and the clutch by which the shaft 17 is connected to the pulley 22 and the means for actuating said clutch are or may be all as shown in United States Patent N 0. 713,764, November 18th, 1902, and, therefore,

' need not be described in great detail herein.

It is sufficient to say that the clutch comprises a clutch dog 127 by which the pulley is connected to the shaft '17 and which dog is pro vided with a tail 23 and that the clutch is controlled I by a clutch-controlling member 24 fast on a rock shaft 25, said member hava ing a clutch-releasing portion 26 by which the clutch is disengaged. When the stitchforming mechanism is in operation the member 24 is held in its inoperative position shown in 7 by means of a latch 27 engaging a lug 28 on an arm 29 fast on the rock shaft 25 and when the member 24 is in this position the clutch-releasing member 26 is outof the path of movement of the tail 23 of the dog and the clutch will thus operate to clutch the shaft 17 to the drivin pulley 22,- If the latch 27 is released from t e lug 28 the spring 29 will swing the controlling member 24 forwardly to bring the clutch-releasing member 26 in the path of movement of the tail 23 of the clutch dog thereby disengaging the clutch and bringing the shaft 17 to rest, all as described in the above-mentioned Patent No. 713,764. 7 f

This disengaging of the clutcliis accomplished automatically when the b'uttonhole has been completed by means of a latch-releasing bar 30 which is adjustably carried on the bed or work-frame 13 and which is so situated that during the forward movement of the frame 16 and-when the stitching operation has been completed the lower end of the latch 27 which is mounted on the frame,"

will engage the end of the latch-releasing bar 30 so that the continued forward movement allowing the clutch-releasing member 26 to be moved into position to engage the tail 23 and thus disengage the clutch, all asshown and described in the above-mentioned patent.

The machine herein shown is also provided with the usual means for. determining the length of the buttonhole and by means of which the length of the buttonhole may be adjusted. The mechanism herein shown for this purpose is similar to that illustrated in above-mentioned Patent No. 713,764.

The rock shaft 25 has fast thereon an arm 31 to which is connected a link 32 having at its lower end a roll 33- The link is normally held in the position shown in Fig. 1 by means of a latch 34. The clutch-releasing bar 30 is-provided with a low portion 35 which is situated-beneath the roll 33 when the machine has come to rest at the end of a sewing cycle and said bar is also provided with the rise or cam 36 that is adapted to be engaged by the roll 33 when the. stitch-frame 16 moves to the right.

- The parts are shown in Fig. 1 in buttonhole cutting position, which is the position they occupy at the end of the sewing cycle and ing at this time disengagedfrom the lug 28 and the clutch-releasing member 26 being in its operative position.

As sated above when the machine is started in operation the head or ,frame16 first is moved to the right to carry the parts from buttonhole cutting position to stitching posit-ion and as the frame moves to the'right the roll 33 will engage and ride upthe cam 36 thereby turning the rock shaft 25 and withdrawing the clutch-releasing member 26 from engagement with the tail 23 of the clutch dog as shown in Fig. 7. This will start the stitchforming mechanism in operation as described in the above-mentioned patents and at the same time it lowers the lug 28 so that the latch 27 will snap over it thus locking theparts in this position. The point in the movement of the head 16' at which the stitch-forming mechanism is set in operation depends uponthe location of the cam 36 and the bar 30 is adjustably secured to the bed or workframe 13 so that the positionof the cam 36 may be varied; If the bar 30 is moved to when the machine is at rest, the latch 27 .be-

the right a shorter buttonhole will be produced while if it is moved to the left a longer buttonhole will be produced. This construction for adjusting the machine for different lengths of buttonhole is similar to that described in the above-mentioned Patent No. 713,764. In fact, all of the mechanism as above described is such as is commonly found in sewing machines of this type and-is illustrated and described in detail in the various patents above referred to. j

In prior machines of this type the barring cam by which the work-holding means and stitch-forming mechanism are given a relative lateral movement at the end-of the buttonhole slit to form the barring stitches 7, .8 in the line of the buttonhole slit is carried by the main cam 19. In my present invention I. dissociate said barring cam from the main cam 19 and mount it independently of said cam 19 and also provide for its adjustment so that it will function properly when making buttonholes of any length. I preferably mount the barring cam on the work frame 13 and associate it with the adjusting member 30 by which the length of the buttonhole is adjusted so that whenever an adjustment is made to change the length of the but- LUIlhOlG the position of the barring cam will be simultaneously adjusted whereby said barring cam will always function properly regardless of the adjustment for the buttonhole length.

The barring cam herein shown is indicated at 37 and it is in the form of a plate which is secured to the under side of the bed 13 and is adjustably secured to the forward end 38 of the bar 30 by means of a screw 39 which extends through a slot 40 formed in the bed plate. When the screw 39 is tightened the forward end 38 of the bar 30 and the barring cam 37 are clamped firmly against the top and bottom respectively of the bed plate and are thereby firmly clamped in. position, but when said screw is loosened then the barring cam and the bar 30 may be adjusted as a .unit.

' bracket arm 45 having ahead portion 46 in The barring cam is shown as having two

camigrooves

41, 42, each of which has an offset or cam portion 43 therein as best seen in Fig; 4. I

The portion 44 of the frame 16 in which the turret 15 is mounted is provided with a which is slidably mounted two

pins

47, 48

. motion'to the head or frame 16 for forming the barring stitches as said head or frame which are adapted to co-operate with the grooves 41, 42' in'giving the lateral jogging moves back and forth. One of the pins, the

pin 48, is operating in its cam groove 42 dur-, ing' the stitching on one side of the button-- hole, the other pin 47 being at this time withdrawn from engagement with the cam plate as shown in Figs. land 9, and said other pin 47 is operating in its cam groove 41 during the sewing on the second side of the buttonhole, the pin 48 being at this time withdrawn. When the upper end of either pin is in its cam groove the engagement'of the pin with the walls of the groove will prevent any lat-- eral movement of the stitch-forming mechanism, and the position ofthe stitch-forming mechanism laterally will be controlled by said pin.

Assuming that the upper end of the pin 48 is in its groove 42, as shown in Fig. 9, and that the parts are in the position shown in Fig. 2, it will be understood that as the head 16 moves to the right the stitch-forming mechanism will be given a lateral movement when the pin passes through the cam portion 43 of the slot, this lateral motion being that which occurs at the point 10 of the buttonhole and being that which differentiates the barring stitches 8 from the side stitches 3.

These

pins

47, 48 operate successively as stated above, one pin being operative during the stitohingon one side of the buttonhole and the other pin being operative during the stitching on the other side of the buttonhole. Said pins, therefore, control the position of the stitch-forming mechanism in a lateral dimotion during the formation of the barring stitches and side stitches on the buttonhole.

The means for controlling the pins will be presently described.

As stated above the stitch-forming mechanism has a lateral movement during the stitching around the eye 5 of the buttonhole, which lateral movement is cont-rolled by the sinuous cam groove 54 co-operat-ing with the lever 55 and, therefore, I have provided herein means to render both

pins

47, 48 inoperative at the time that the eye of the buttonhole is being sewed so that the control of the head or frame 16 as to its lateral motion will at this time be transferred from the pins to the cam groove 54.

Means are also provided to render one pin operative during the sewing on one side of the buttonhole and the other pin operative during the sewing on the other side of the buttonh le. During the sewing on the first The pins are controlled by arms or levers 79,80 which are pivoted on a stud 81 carried by the bracket 45. The forward end of the arm 79 is received in a groove 73 formed in the lower projecting end of the pin 47' and the forward end of the arm 80 is received in a similar groove 52 formedin the lower end of the pin48. Each arm is acted on by'a link 62 Slides, said link havin spring 83 which normally tends to move the pins upwardly into] engagement with the grooves of the cam plate 37.

The arm 80 has rigid therewith anarm '63 which is connected by a link '62 to an extension 58 rigid with the lever 56 by which the stitch-forming mechanism is turned about its vertical axis. The arm or lever 79 is fast on a sleeve 61 mounted on a'stud 81 and said sleeve has ri id therewith an arm whichis connected y a link 59 to'another pro'eotion cream 57 also rigid with the lever 56 ut situated on the opposite side thereof from the projection or ear 58. With this arrangement the swinging movement of the lever 56 by which the stitch-forming mechanism is turned around the end of the buttonhole will operate to shift the position of the pins.

With the parts in the position shown in Figs. 1 and 2 the pin 47 is depressed into inoperative position and the pin 48 is elevated but as the lever 56 swings into dotted line position Fig. 2 to turn the stitch-forming mechanism around the end of the buttonhole the lever or arm 80 will be depressed while the arm 7 9 will be elevated. Similarly at the opposite .end of the butt-onhole the turning movement of the lever 56 to bring the parts into the position shown in Fig. 2 will depress the pin 47 and allow the pin 48 to be elevated.

When the side stitching 3 (see Fig. 10) is about completed", and before the follower onthe lever 55 enters the cam groove 54 to effect the stitching around the eye of the buttonhole, the pin 48 is withdrawn from its operative engagement with its groove 42. For accomplishing this the lever 80 is rovided with an upstanding arm 64 and the d 13 is provided with the depending arm orbunter 65,

the latter being so situated that it will enga e the 'upstading arm 64 just before the eye of t e buttonhole is reached. The en 'agement of the arm 64 with the hunter lever and withdraws the pin 48 from its slot 42 as will be obvious, (seeFig. 8).

The connection between the link '62 and the arm 58 is such as to permit the arm 80' buttonhole the lever 56 is moved into the dotted line position Fig. 2, thus allowing the arm 79 to move upwardly and its spring 83 will bring the pin 47 against the cam plate 37. As soon as said pin comes inline with its groove 41 by the lateral shifting movement of the stitch-forming mechanism said pin depresses the" will drop intothe :gro ove'41 and thereafter during the furthermovement of the head 16 the movement of the stitch-forming mecha nism laterally will be'governed by the-cam groove41.

It will be noted on reference to F i 5that the groove in which the follower on t m lever 55 operates is' rovided with widened portions atfleac end of the sinuous portion 54. Duringthe time that the

pins

47, 48 are operating in their cam grooves the follower on the lever 55 is operating in the wide portion 130 of the cam groove,"this wide portion providing suificient'play of the follower on the lever 55 so that said lever will not interfere in any way with thelateral jogging'movement of thehead due to' the cam portions 43 '

oflthe cam grooves

41, 42.

Since the barri-ngcam 37 is connected to the controlling member 30* by which. the

length of the buttonhole is controlled it will be observed that the position of said cam will be adjusted simultaneously'with the. adjustment ofthe bar 30. Hence the barring cam will be positioned to functionproperly for every length of buttonhole and, therefore,

with this invention it is possible to sew buttonholes of any desired len 'th with the bar 6.

- My invention also provides means by which the barring cammay be rendered ineffective so that huttonholes without the bar may: be

sewed. I accomplish this by providing means for shifting the position of the barrmg cam relative to the-starting cam .36, soithat the stitch-forming mechanism will not be started in operation-until afterthe pins 47, 48 have passed the cam roove 43 of the barring cam. This is provide 'for as'shown in Figi 3. The

portion of the member 30 carrying th t -g;

mg cam 36 is ,adjustably secured to the portion 38 to which the barringcam is secured by theclampin screw 39.- The part 38 is shown as rovi edwitha slot 131 in which is receive a screw 132. Ea'rri'ed by the for ward end of the part 30; When this screw .132- is loosened the barring cam may be shifted forwardly relativeto the rt 30 and such adjustment may be made t at by the time the roll 33 reaches and engages the starting cam 36 the pins .47, 48 will have. been carried past the cam portion 43 of the barring cam. When this condition obtains there will no I be no lateral jogging motion of. the stitchforming mechanism such as is indicated at the point 10 in Fig.10'and'as a result a but tonhole such as shown in Fig; .13 will be formed.

- In order to facilitate this adjustment I have provided a lever 133which is pivoted at 134 to the part 38, said lever having a forked end 135 which engages a pin 136 rising from the .end of the part 30. When the screw 132 is loosened the

parts

30 and 38 may be adjusted relative to each other by the lever 133 and when the desired adjustment has been made they may be clamped in adjusted position by ti htening the clamp 132.

he construction above described has the further advantage that-it permits .bars of different lengths to be formed regardless of the size of the buttonhole. I have described above how when the barring camis-moved to a sufiicient extent relative to the startin cam 36, said barrin cam will be rendere inoperative because uring the movement of the head 16 the

pins

47, 48 will have been carried ast the cam portion 43' of the barring cam before the startin cam engages the roll 33 to start the stitchorming mechanism in operation. If, however, the barring cam is adjusted relative to the starting cam 36 for a distance less than that necessary to render said barring cam inoperative the result will be that a bar will be formed which is short,-

ened from the full length bar b an amount.

determined by the adjustment 0 the barring cam.

In Fig-14 I have shown a buttonhole having a short bar. The barring cam may be adjusted so that it will be rendered operative at such a point in the cycle of movement that only three or four stitches will be formed before the point 10 of the buttonhole is reached and the head is given its lateral movement to shift from barring stitches to side stitches or the barring cam may be adjusted into ]position where a relatively long bar wi 1 be formed as shown in Fig. 12.

The adjustment for the length of the bar is quite independent from that for the length of stitches so that a bar of any desired length or no bar at all ma be formed on a buttonhole of any desired ength.

'While I have illustrated herein a selected embodiment of my invention I do not wish to be limited to ,the constructional features shown.

I claim:

1. In a sewing machine, the combination with work-holding means, of stitch-forming mechanism, a stitch-frame supportin the stitch-forming mechanism, a work rame supporting the work-holding means, means to give the work-holding means and stitch-forming mechanism a relative feeding movement in the direction of the length of the buttonhole, and means carried by the work-frame to cause said stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means to have a relative lateral movement after the first few stitches have been formed and again-just before the last stitches have been formed thereb to form a bar extendin in the direction 0 the length of the button ole.

2. In a buttonhole sewin machine, the combination with work-hol ing means, of stitch-forming mechanism, a stitch-frame oar ing the stitch-forming mechanism, a .wor -frame car 'ng the work-holding means, means carried by the stitch-frame to unease give said I work-holding means and stitchormmg mechanism a relative feeding movement longitudinally of the buttonhole, means carried by the work-frame to cause said work-holding means and stitch-forming mechanism to have a relative lateral movement after the first few stitches have been formed and again just before the last stitches have been formed thereby to form a bar extending in the direction of the length of the buttonhole.

3. In a sewing machine, the combination with work-holding means, of stitch-forming mechanism, a main cam for moving said work-holding means and stitchforming mechanism relatively to each other to cause the stitches to be formed along the sides and aroundthe eye end of the buttonhole, and a stationary barring cam separate from the main cam b which the work-holding means and stitchorming mechanism are given a relative lateral movement during the relative movement derived from the main cam thereby to form a bar at the end of the buttonhole.

4. In a sewing machine, the combination with work-holding means, of stitch-forming mechanism, a rotary main cam for moving said work-holding means and stitch-forming mechanism relatively to each other to cause the stitches to be formed along the sides and around the eye end of the buttonhole, and a stationary barrin cam separate from the main cam b whidh the work-holding means and stitchorming mechanism are given a relative lateral movement during the relative movement derived from the mam cam thereby to form at the end of the buttonhole a bar extending in the length of the buttonhole.

5.'In a sewing machine, the combination with work-holding means, of stitch-forming mechanism, a main cam for moving said work-holding means and stitch-forming mechanism relatively to each other to cause the stitches to be formed along the sides and around the eye end of the buttonh le, means by which the length of the buttonhole may be varied, and a barring cam se arate from the main cam and o erative for different lengths of buttonhole y which the work-holding means and stitch-forming mechanism are given a relative lateral movement during the relative movement derived from the main cam thereby -'to form a bar at the end of the buttonhole.

6. In a sewing machine, the combination lengths of buttonhole by which the worliholding means and-stitch-forming, mechamsm are given a relative lateral movement during the relative movement derivedfrom stitch-forming mechanism, a main cam for moving said work-holdmg means and stitchformm sidesand around the eye end of the buttonhole, an adjustable cont-rolling member by which the length of the buttonhole is determined, and a barring cam adjustable with said member by which the work-holding means and stitch-forming mechanism are given a relative lateral movement thereby to form a. bar at the end of the buttonhole.

8. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with work-holding means, of stitch-forming mechanism, amain cam for moving said work-holding means and stitchforming mechanism relative to each other to cause the stitches to be formed along the sides and around the eyeend of the buttonhole, an adjustable controlling member by which the length of the buttonhole is determined, anda barring cam adjustable with said member by which the work-holding means and stitch-forming mechanism are given a relative lateral movement thereby to form at the end of the buttonhole a bar which extends in the direction of the length of the buttonhole.

9. In a buttonhole sewin machine, the combination with work-hol ing means, of stitch-forming mechanism, means to give said work-holdingmeans and stitch-forming mechanism arelative movement of fixed amplitude longitudinally of the buttonhole, adjustable means for controlling the operation of the stitch-forming mechanism by which button holes of different lengths may be formed, and other means adjustable with said last-named means to produce a relative lateral movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holdin meansto form at the end of' the buttonho e a bar extending in the direction of the length thereof.

10. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with work-holding means, of stitch-formin mechanism, means for giving said work-ho ding means and. stitch-forming mechanism a relative movement of fixed amplitude longitudinally of the buttonhole, adjustable means for controlling the operation of the stitch-forming mechanism by which buttonholes of different lengths I may be formed, a. barring cam adjustable into different positions according to the length of the buttonhole being sewed, and means operated thereby to produce a. relative lateral movemechanism relative to each other to cause t is stitches to be formed along thement between thestitch-forining mechanism and work-holding means by which. a bar is formed at the end of the buttonhole.

11-. Ina buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with work-holding means, of

stitch-forming 'mechanism',-means for giving said work-holding means and stitelrfonning mechanism a relative movement of fixed amplitude-longitudinallyof the buttonhole, adjustable means for controlling the operation of the stitch-forming mechanism by which buttonholes of different lengths "may be v:

formed, a barring cam, and means'opera'ted thereby to produce a'relative lateral movement between the stitch-formingmechanism and work-holding means by which a bar is formed at the end of the buttonhole, said barring cam being connected :to and adjustable with said adjustable means.

12. In a sewing machine, the combination with work-holding means, of stitch-forming mechanism, a main cam for'moving said Work-h0lding means and stitch-forming mechanism relatively to each other to cause the stitches to be formed along the sides and ti'onarily mounted barring cam separate from the mam cam by which the work-holding means andstitch forming mechanism are a given a relative lateral movement during the relative movement derived from the main cam thereby to form-a bar at the end of the buttonhole, and means to render the barring cam either operative or inoperative,

13. In a sewing machine, the combination with work-holding means, of stitch-form" ing mechanism, a main cam for moving said work-holding means and stitch-forming mechanism relatively to'eachother-to cause the stitches to be formed along the sides and around the eye end-of thebuttonhole, a nonrotar Y barring cam separate from the main cam y which the work-holding means and stitch-forming mechanism are given a relative lateral movement during the relative movement derived from the main cam thereby to form at the end of the buttonhole a bar extending in the length of the buttonhole, and means to render the barring cam either operative or inoperative. i

14. In a sewing machine, the combination with work-holding means of stitch-forming mechanism, a mam cam for moving said work-holding means and stitchforming mechanism relatively to each other to cause; the stitches to be formed along the sides and around the eye end of the buttonhole, means by which the len h of the buttonhole may be varied, a barring cam'sepamie irom the main cam and operative for "different lengths 9) around the eye end of the buttonhole, a stacam.,.ei ther' -operat ive V or; inoperative.

.- r' 15. In,: a buttonholes ewing mac'hfne, the

--thestitch-forming; mechanism v and workholding means relatively in-=a lateral direc-Q- ti'onjustafter'the.stitching begins and before: it; stop s thereby to form a bar at the end of the buttonhole which extends in the.

mbina With wo' k-he din me f.

' stitcheforming mechanism, a stitolkfrarh.

carr ,ing; the, stitchgforming mechanism, Ea IZ-fra e 'ca ryi g. the, '.W k:h d a-mea s m hat -freme er gi relative feeding nioyement to i the stit'ch formin anech'a-nism and work-holdingmeans hole, means ;on the'-work-frame for shifting "directiono-f the length thereof.

"work-frame carrying, the; work-holding means, means on thestitch-frame forgiving relative feedingmovement to, the stitch-form ing mechanism andwork-holdin means in the direction of thejlength df the nttonhole, means on the work-frame; for shiftingthe stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding? means relativelyui'n a lateral direction jiust after the stitchihgbeginsmnd before itisto'ps thereby to .form a-bar atthe endof the buttonhole. which extends in the (direction of the length thereof, and means tovaryi the length ofithe-bar. v

17. In a buttonhole sewin machine the combination with stitch-formlng mechanism,

ing the stitch the work-holding -means, a

main cam-0n t efistitch-frame for relatively 'feeding the stitch-forming mechanism 3 and work-holdin means in the direction of the lengthof the 'uttonhole, abarringcam onthe .work-.frame.f or giving the Istitch-orming mechanism and work-holding means-a rela-v tive lateral movement at-the end'of the buttonhole slit thereby to form a bar.

18. Ina buttonhole sewing machine,

combination with stitchJormmgmechani'sm,

ofwork-holdingmeans', a stitc'h-framecar' l Ling the'stitch-forming mechanism, a work 1 frame carrying the. work-holding means, a.

" main camon the stitch-frame fongiving'said I stitch-form mechanismgand work-holding means *a. relative feeding movement. longitu- "dinally of the -bnttonhole,.a barring. camon the work-frame by which the stitc h iormingi mechanism and work-holding meansa're given 7 a lateral movement ziust after the stitching begins and jushbefore it ends, whereby the buttonhole is provided witha 1ongitudina1 ly-.

extendingbarfix 19. In a buttonhole 'se'win' machine, the

combination with stitch-iormmg mechanism,

means, a-stitch-vframe'car ormmg mechan1sm, a .wor frame carrying1 .Jof workholding means, a stitch-frame car I ing the stitch-forming mechanism, a.wor

frame carrying the work-holding means, a

main cam'on the stitch-frame for giving said {the work-frame by which the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means are given 7 m I :a ,lateral movement just after the stitching inthe direction of the length-of the button 4 begins and just before it ends, whereby the bnttonhole is'provided with a longitudinallyextending bar, saidbarring cam being adj ustillbie thereby to vary the length of the button- 20. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means, of a stitch-frame carrying'the stitch-forming mechanism, a work-frame carrying the work-holding means, means to ive the stitch-forming mechanism and wor -holding means a relative feeding movement longitudinally of thebuttonhole, means for varying) buttonhole, means carried y the work-frame i for. giving the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means a relative lateral movement just after the stitching begins and before 'it ends thereby longitudinally of t e buttonhole.

the length of the to form a bar extending '21. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the

combiantion. with stitch-forming mechanism andwork-holding means, of a stitch-frame carrying the stitch-forming mechanism, a

work'-frame carrying the work-holding means, means to 've the stitch-forming mechanism and wor -holding means a relative feeding'movementlongitudinally of the but tonhole, means for varyin the'length of the buttonhole, means carried by the work-frame for 'vin th'estitch-forming mechanism and wor -ho1 in means a relative lateral movement just a r the stitching begins and before it ends thereby to form a bar extending longitudinall .of the buttonhole, and means \whereby the eng'th of the bar may be varied.

- 22. In a buttonhole sewin'gmachine, the combination with a stitch-frame, of a, workframe, stitch-forming mechanismcarried by the stitch-frame, work-holding means carried by the work-frame, a rotar cam carried by the stitch-frame for ivingt e stitch-forming lUu mechanism and wor -ho1ding means a relative feeding movement longitudinall ofthe buttonhole, a non-rotary 'camcarrie by the work-frame for giving the stitch-forming 1 'fr ame, stitch-formin mechanism carried by the stitch-frame, wor -holding means carried by the work frame, a rotarycam carried by to iorma bar at Y the stitcl1-frame for giving the stitch-formfeeding movement thereby to form a bar at ing mechanism and Work-holding means a the end of the buttonhole, said barring cam relative feeding movement longitudinally of being adjustable whereby the length of the 10 the buttonhole, a non-rotary cam carried by bar may be varied. 5 the Work-frame for giving the stitch-forming In testimony whereof I have signed my mechanism and Work-holding means a relaname to this specification.

tive lateral movement during the relative JOHN KIEWICZ.