US1695967A - Welt and method of making - Google Patents

Description

Patented Dec. 18, 1928.

vireo STATES PATENT OFFICE.

HARRY LYON, F ianoon rom MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR r0 JOHN A. BARBOUR, on

fBnooKLmn, MASSACHUSETTS, Ann runner YIBARBOUR, or, QUINCYQMASSACHU- sn'rrs, DOING BUSINESS AS A COPARTNERSHII' UNDER THENAME AND STYLE on BARBOUR. WELTING, COMPANY, or BBOCKTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

WELT AND ,rirnrnon or MAKING.

Application filed August 14, 1924. Serial No. 731,932.

Heretofore welting has commonly been made of blank strip material of substantiallyrectangular cross section, a groove beingcut longitudinally thereof on its lower or flesh face, when of leather, to receive the inseam stitches and the inner upper edge on the grain side of the-leather'being removed on a bevel. lVhen in position in the shoe theinseam stitches emerge from the upper 1 edge of the "welt substantially at the marginof this beveled edge, or in other words, at the apex between the beveled edge and the grain'face of the leather.v The groovingand beveling operations remove stock from the strip, this stock being waste,*and the-blank strip must be of the full over-allwidth of the finished welting. T

According to the present invention Substantially the same cross sectional contour and over-all width'for the completed welting is produced but without the necessity of actually removing material from the strip, causing waste, and without any condensing or other undesirable effect on the material where either the inseam or outseam stitches pass therethrough. 1

' Due to the manner of making, the finlshed welt is of greater width than that of the blank and as there is .no waste a narrower blank strip than heretofore used produces finished welting of the same effective width so that a material saving in stock is ,obtained.

'For a more complete understanding of this invention reference may behad to "the accompanying drawings'in which 'Figure 1 is a cross section of the blank strip. 7 v

Figure 2 is a view similar to Figure l, but showing one mannerflof cutting .the

blank. I 1

Figure 3 shows the cut blank bent to form the completed welting. Q

Figure 4} is a view similar to Figure 2, but showing a different way in which the blankmay be cut. j

' Figure 5 shows the completed welting when the blank is out as shown in Figure l. Figure 6 represents a cross section through a portion of a shoe-showing the novel welting incorporated therein.

A blank strlp substantially rectangular in 'cr'oss sec'tion assho'wni-at '1 in Figure 1 is v out inwardly from its lower face 2 as shown at 3 (Figure 2), where leather is employed this being the flesh facezof the blank. This cut'or incision from the flesh face extends substantially perpendicular to this face partly through the blank and from its inner end a cut-is made substantially parallel ,to

, thetop and bottom-faces, as atl, toward the adjacent edge 5 of the blank. Thisprovides a portion of the blank extending throughout its length boundedby the incisions 3' and 4,, a portion of the lower face 2 and the .main body of the blank. This portion is.

edge 5 which is partially severed from the then bent backwardly and outwardly. to open up the incisions 3 and 4-- as shown in'Figure 8. The edge 5 then takes an inclined position at an obtuse angle to theupper face of the strip as shown in this figure, and corresponds in position to the beveled portion at 'the'inner edge of the usual welt on its upper or grain face, while'the'portions at opposite sides of-the incisions 3- and lare separated f sufficiently by said outward displacement of the partly severed portionof the stock to form agroove 6 having a bottomface of "substantial width stitches may-lie.

in which the inseam beveled face, formed by the edge 5 of the blank, originally presents a section of the material perpendicular to its :upper and 'lower" faces rather than a section inclined to this perpendicularas in-the welting'cut with waste as heretofore practiced.

This mannerofv cutting the welting .pro-

videsa groove having abaseof ample width for receiving and burying the inseam stitches and alsolafiords sufiicient room for the'needle-to pass without detrimental effect when the stitches are being made.

also the beveled portion, while in the present form thewi dth of the blank is only that of the uncut 'upperg'fa'ce as. from the The several stitches extend, as shown by the dotted line 2-2 in Figure:3, from. the base of this groove 6.-and emerge at the top face of the point bito the pointfo of1Figure3,tthei'dis so i It willbe noted that the I tunes from the point 0 to the point (i representing an increase in the over-all width of the welting as constructed according to this invention, produced by the bending outwardly of the partially severed. portion thereof. By this construction, therefore, it is seen that the overall width of the finished welting is greater than the width of the blank from which it is made, while as heretofore constructed the two widths have been the same.

In place of the two rectangularly ar-' ranged incisions 3 and 4 a single incision 1O curved to substantially a quadrant may be substituted as shown in Figures 4 and 5. The lower portion of this incision is substan tially perpendicular to the lower face 2 of the blank, while the inner edge of this incision is substantially parallel thereto, conforming in this respect to the remote edges of the incisions 3 and 4t.

The portion '11 of the blank is thus partially severed by the incision 10 and it is then bent outwardly away from'the remaining portion of the blank to form the groove 12 and the beveled. edge 5. The inseam stitches lie in the groove 12 and extend. in the .general direction of the dotted line 0'7"" emerging from the upper face of the welting at the apex between the inclined side 5 and the top face 7 in the same manner as in the form shown in Figure 3.

In Figure 6 is shown a section through a portion of a shoe showinga length of the finished welt-ing incorporated therein, the inseam stitches 15 passing through the insole rib 16, the lining 17 the upper 18 and the .welt 19 substantially in the same manner as when the welt having the stitch receiving groove and the beveled portion out therefrom is employed. The welt, when on a shoe is indistinguishable from that heretofore used and represents a considerable saving in stock over that required by the former method of construction. Furthermore the material is not condensed or otherwise mistreated, where the stitches are passed therethrough, to cause interference in any way with the passage of the needle or the holding strength of the stitches.

Having thus described certain embodiments of this invention it should be evident to those skilled in the art that various modifications and changes may be made therein 7 without departing from its spirit or scope as defined by the appended. claims.

I claim:

1. VVelting comprising a strip of substanti ally rectangular cross section incised with out removal of material lon itudinally in one face near its inner edge, the incision be ing substantially perpendicular to said one face adjacent thereto and remote from that face being substantially parallel thereto.

2. VVelting comprising: a strip of substantially rectangular cross section incised longitudinally from one face inwardly and then toward one edge, the portion thus partly severed from the blank being bent backwardly and outwardly fromsaid face to form a stitch-receiving groove at the incision and a beveled adjacent edge;

3. lVelting comprising a leather strip of substantially rectangular cross section incised longitudinally adjacent. to one edge from the flesh side thereof and extending toward said edge to partially sever a portion from the strip, said partially severed portion being bent back from the flesh side to open the incision to form a stitch-receiving groove and to cause the outer edge of said portion previously substantially perpendicu: lar to the sides of said strip ,to make an obtuse angle to the grain side of the strip and increase the overall width of said; strip.

4. The method offorming welting which comprises cutting and bending a blank strip of rectangular cross section to form a welt of greater width than said strip provided with a beveled edge and a stitch-receiving groove having a base of substantial width.

5. The method of forming welting which comprises cutting inwardly and laterally from the lower face of a blank strip of substantially rectangular cross section longitudinally thereof adjacent to one edge to partially sever a marginal portion and bending said marginal portion in a manner to open up the cut to form a stitch-receiving groove, lg Widen the strip, and to form a beveled ec 'e.

= 6. VVeltmg for bootsand shoes compr1s1ng a strip of grain leather having, in its flesh side near its inner edge, a groove of requisite depth with a bottom face of substantial Width for receiving stitching, and a bevel at the inner edge of the strip formed from an outward displacement of said inner edge and of the stock which originally lay down in said groove over said bottom face.

7. VVelting for boots and shoes comprising a strip of grain leather having a longitudinal incision near its inner edge extending from the flesh side'inwardly and then turning toward said inner edge to partly sever stock from the flesh side, said incision being opened to form a stitch-receiving groove by raising and permanently displacing outwardly thestock of the-flesh side beveled welting for boots and shoes which includes longitudinally ineising the flesh side ot a grain leather welt strip near ts inner edge by a slit which extends nwardly from said flesh side and then turns toward a said inner edge, and then opening said incision to form a stitch-receivinggroove and displac ng the marginal stock outwardly and toward the grain side ,to set said inner edge oblique to said grain side.

10. Veltmg comprising a strip of material having a beveled inner edge, consisting of the original inner edge of the strip, the bevel being determined by displacing material partially severed by a longitudinal cut entering the strip at right angles to its upper and lower surfaces and then, by a change of direction, turning toward said inner edge. In testimony whereof I have aflixed my signature. I

' HARRY LYON.

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