US1983408A

US1983408A - Shoe

Info

Publication number: US1983408A
Application number: US593956A
Authority: US
Inventors: John J Shea
Original assignee: J F MCELWAIN CO
Current assignee: J F MCELWAIN CO
Priority date: 1932-02-19
Filing date: 1932-02-19
Publication date: 1934-12-04
Anticipated expiration: 1951-12-04

Description

Dec. 4, 1934.

w J. J. SHEA SHOE Fiied Feb; 19, 1932 s Sheets-Sheet; 1

Egg-4 INVENTORI A'TTORNEK J. J. SHEA Dec. 4, 1934.

SHOE

Filed Feb. 19, 1932 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 J. J. SHEA 'Dec. 4, 1934.;

SHOE

Filed Feb. 19, 1952 3' Sheets-Sheet .5

iJATTOR/V K Patented Dec. 4, 1934 PATENT OFFICE SHOE John J. Shea, Nashua,

N. H., assignor to J F.

McElwain (30., Boston, Mass, a corporation of Massachusetts Application February 19, 1932, Serial No. 593,956

6 Claims.

This invention relates to shoes and to methods of making shoes. The invention is more especially concerned with low shoes of the bal type.

The usual method of making an upper for a bal oxford shoe consists in cutting out a vamp lining in two parts or sections divided approximately along the median line of the shoe; cutting a quarter lining in either one or two pieces, as desired; stitching the two parts of the quarter lining together (providing a two-piece lining is used) andsubsequently stitching the forward edges of the quarter lining to the rear edges of the vamp lining sections. The upper edge of the lining so prepared next is stitched to the upper edge of the quarter, this operation being commonly known as top stitching, the upper is next eyeletted, and finally the two sections of the vamp lining are stitched together by running a seam along approximately the median line of the shoe lining.

This method has the advantage of permitting all of the stitching operations to be performed on a sewing machine of the flat table type. It is, therefore, economical and has been used almost exclusively in the less expensive grades'of shoes of the particular type mentioned. It is open to the objection, however, thatthe seam running longitudinally of the vamp lining through the central portion thereof frequently is found to be uncomfortable.

With a view to eliminating this diificulty, it has been proposed to divide the vamp lining at one side of the shoe, and to secure the sections together by a seam running diagonally from the forward edge of the quarter lining toward the toe of the shoe and at one side thereof. This method, however, only partially overcomes the difiicultyabove mentioned since it results in a construction having a seam in the lining for the vamp portion of the shoe.

The present invention deals especially with this difficulty and it aims to devise a thoroughly satisfactory solution for the problem which it presents.

It'is also an object of the invention to obviate the launching of upper material at the forward end of the lacing slit or vent for the shoe which frequently is a cause of annoyance and discomfort.

The nature of the invention will be readily understood from the following description when read in connection with the accompanying drawings, and the novel features will be particularly pointed out in the appended claims.

In the drawings,

Figure l is a plan View of a toe lining or vamp lining;

Fig. 2 is a plan view of a one-piece quarter lining;

Fig. 3 is a plan view of the piece stitched thereto;

Fig. 4 is a plan view showing the vamp and quarter lining pieces and the tongue stitched together at one side of the shoe;

Fig. 5 is a' plan viewshowing the parts after the top stitching and eyeletting operations;

Fig. 6 is a'view of the inside of a closed lining before the vamping operation has been performed;

Fig. 7 is a perspective View of a shoe including the upper shown in Fig. 6;

Fig. 8 is a view of the inside of a shoe showing the relationship between the tongue and the wings of the quarter lining;

Figs. 9, 10 and 11 are views similar to Figs. l, 2 and 6, respectively, illustrating a modification, part of the quarter lining being broken away in Fig. 10; and

' Figs. 12, 13 and 14 are similar views with parts broken away showing a further modification.

Referring first to Figs. 1 and 2, a one-piece toe lining or vamp lining is shown at 2 and a one piece quarter'lining at'3. Usually in a low shoe the quarter lining is made of leather and the vamp lining of fabric. The first step in assembling the parts of the lining consists in overlapping the forward edge of the quarter lining upon the rearward edge of the vamp lining at one tongue with a lining 6 side of the vamp and'stitching these'parts together along the seam 4. It is customary to notch or slit the rear edges of the'vamp lining,

as shown at 5, to designate the allowable amount of overlap, the edge of the quarter lining being registered with the ends of the slits 5. If de-- sired, the tongue 6 with its lining piece '7 stitched thereto may be tacked to the shoe lining in this first seaming operation, the tongue having a lateral extension or tab 8 through which the seam 4 may run.

The lining in this condition is next secured to the quarter by the top stitching operation. Referring to Fig, 5 'it will be seen that the two sections of the quarter 10 have been secured by the back'seamlZ'before the quarter and the lining are brought together. The upper edges of the quarter and the quarter lining are registered with each other, and these parts are secured together in this relationship by the top seam 14, this seam starting at one side of the lacing slit or vent, or, in other words, at the forward end per edges of the quarter and quarter lining to the opposite end of the quarter.

All of the stitching operations so far described can be performed in a sewing or stitching machine of the table type, since the parts can all be stitched in a flat condition.

The eyelets next are set in the two wings or

nose pieces

10 and 10 of the quarter and its lining.

It then becomes necessary to close the upper, and this operation is performed by inserting between the quarter and the quarter lining the rear edge 2, Figs. 4 and 5, of the vamp lining at the side of the upper opposite to the seam 4! so that the forward edge 3" of the quarter lining is overlapped upon the edge 2' of the vamp lining, and then securing these parts 2' and 3" perms nently together by stitching to make the seam 15, Fig. 6. The proper degree of overlap is determined at this side of the shoe by slits. or notches 5' corresponding to the slits 5. Because of the peculiar formation of a shoe upper when it is closed, it is necessary to perform this stitching operation on a sewing machine equipped with a raised work support which occupies relatively little space. Such a machine as that known commercially as a Post sewing machine preferably is used.

The remaining operations necessary to complete the manufacture of the shoe may be performed according to any suitable or convenient method. It will be observed, however, that in this shoe there are no seams in the vamp lining. Consequently, the objections which attend the use of any two piece vamp lining with the necessary overlapping of thepa-rts and the stitching of them together at some point where the. seam crosses the toes or the joints of the foot is completely avoided. In addition, the operations of securing the sections of lining together: may be performed in. such a manner that the expense of making the shoe by this method is not substantially greater than the old commonly practiced method above described.

After the lining and quarter have. been secured together in the manner above described, it is acommon practice to secure the end portions of the quarter together at the forward end of the lacing slit or vent by a barring operation and then to stitch the vamp 16, Fig. '7, and the quarter together, this step commonly being referred. to as vamping. of stitches'arerun for this purpose, as shown at 1'! and 18, Fig. 8. These two seamsextend through the forward edge of the tongue 6 and the forward ends of the quarter lining 3. Consequently, in shoes made by this prior art method there are at least three thicknesses of leather all. stitched securely together at the throat of the shoe or the forward end of the lacing slit in additionto one or more layers of fabric lining. This produces a. bunch which frequently is extremely uncomfortable.

With a. view to avoiding this difficulty,.the. forward ends of the quarter lining 3 are out off, as indicated at a and b, at such angles. that the two edges diverge from the end of thelacing slit along lines extending diagonally forward toward opposite sides of the shoe. The forward end of the tongue lies in the notch formed between these diverging edges a and b, as clearly shownin Fig. 8, and the greater portions of both edges lie behind the forward seam 17 which secures the tongue to the vamp. This construction, there- Usually two seams or two lines.

of the quarter, and running along the entire upfore, avoids the presence of an excessive bunch immediately in front of the throat and prevents the formation of an abrupt shoulder at this point where it is liable to cause discomfort to the wearer. Excessive material in this region is further reduced by skiving the inner edges of the tongue in the usual manner.

A further advantage of notching the forward ends of the quarter lining wings or nose pieces is that it facilitates the operation of inserting the edge 2 of the vamp lining between the quarter lining and the quarter preparatory to running the seam 15. This is due to the fact that the top stitching seam l4: terminates at the throat of the shoe, or, in other words, at the forward end of the vent or lacing slit, and the entire edge 3' of the quarter lining is left free so that the edge 2' of the vamp lining can easily be slipped under the edge 3- of the quarter lining, as above described. The wing or nose piece of a quarter lining of the usual conventional shape is like that shown in Fig. 10, and when such a lining has been top stitched to a quarter and the seam 4 run in the manner above described, it is then impossible to insert the opposite edge of the vamp between the quarter and quarter lining at the open side of the lining. The construction above described efiectuallyovercomes this difiiculty in addition to avoiding the excessive bunching of material at the throat of the shoe. The former of these advantages can be obtained by somewhat different constructions illustrated in Figs. 9 to 14, inclusive.

Referring first to Figs. 9, l0 and 11 it will be seen that a quarter lining 3 of the shape commonly used heretofore is employed with a onepiece vamp lining 2 Both wings or nose pieces of the quarter lining are slitted as shown at 20 and 21. The vamp lining andquarter lining pieces are next secured together by the seam 4 corresponding to the seam 4, the top stitching and eyeletting. operationsare performed, and later the lining is closed by inserting the rearward edge of. the vamp lining at the open side of the vent in the slit 21, overlapping the open margin of the quarter lining uponit, and then stitching the overlapped parts together to produce the seam 15*, Fig. 11, this seam corresponding to the seam. 15 in Fig. 6.

According to the variation of this method illustrated in Figs. 12, 13 and 14,. the one-piece-vamp lining 2 is provided with a vent which instead of being shaped in the usual manner, is extended forward to a point 22, Fig. 12. The wings or nose pieces of the quarter lining 3 are made of the usual shape. Thislining piece next is stitched to the rearward edge of the vamp lining at one side only of the vent to produce the seam 4 Fig. 14. The top stitching and eyeletting operations next are performed and finally the quarter is closed in the" manner above described by running the seam 15 The fact, however, that the entire edge of the quarter lining at the openside of the lining is left free prior to running this seam, permits the insertion of the rearward unattached edge of the vamp lining 2 between the quarter and the quarter lining preparatory to closing the lining.

These constructions shown in Figs. 9 to 14 thus are of advantage in permitting the assembly of the parts in the manner above described, but they arestill open to the objection of presenting an excessive bunch of upper material at the throat of the shoe which has been an objectionable feature of prior bal shoe constructions. Accordingly,

I prefer to notch the forward ends of the wings or nose pieces as shown in Fig. 6.

While the particular shoe shown is of the lace type, it is obvious that the invention is equally as applicable to button shoes.

Having thus described my invention, what I desire to claim as new is:

1. In a shoe, the combination with a quarterprovided with a lacing slit, of a lining for said quarter, said lining having wings stitched to the quarter at opposite sides of said slit, and a tongue stitched to said lining and quarter at the forward end of said slit, the forward edges of said wings lying chiefly behind the front seam which unites the tongue to the quarter.

2. In a shoe, the combination with a quarter provided with a lacing slit, of a lining for said quarter, said lining having wings stitched to the quarter at opposite sides of said slit, a tongue permanently secured to said lining and quarter at the forward end of said slit, the forward ends of said wings being shaped to extend from the forward end of said lacing slit diagonally forward toward opposite sides of the shoe to provide a rearwardly extending notch between said ends, and the forward end of said tongue overlying said notch.

3. In a shoe, the combination with a quarter provided with a lacing slit, of a lining for said quarter, said lining having wings stitched to the quarter at opposite sides of said slit, said wings being substantially symmetrical, and a tongue stitched to said lining and quarter at the forward end of said slit, the forward edges of said wings lying chiefly behind the front seam which unites the tongue to the quarter.

4. In a shoe, the combination with a quarter provided with a lacing slit, of a lining for said quarter, said lining having wings stitched to the quarter at opposite sides of said slit, said wings being substantially symmetrical, a tongue permanently secured to said lining and quarter at the forward end of said slit, the forward ends of said wings being shaped to extend from the forward end of said lacing slit diagonally forward toward opposite sides of the shoe to provide a rearwardly extending notch between said ends, and the forward end of said tongue overlying said notch.

5. That improvement in methods of making low shoes of the bal type provided with a one piece vamp lining, the ends of which are substantially symmetrical and which extend rearwardly and approximately parallel to each other, forming a vent, which consists in stitching the forward edge of one leg of a one piece quarter lining to one edge of said vent and to the adjoining rearward edge of said vamp lining but leaving the opposite edge of the vent and the opposite forward edge of said quarter lining free, securing the lining sections so prepared to the quarter of a shoe upper by top stitching said quarter lining and said quarter together, with the edge of the quarter lining lying at the rear of the forward edge of the quarter, thereafter overlapping said free edge of the quarter lining upon the free edge of said vent and the adjacent unattached rear edge of said vamp lining, and stitching the parts so overlapped together to secure them permanently in said overlapped relationship.

6. That improvement in methods of making low shoes of the bal type provided with a one piece vamp lining, the ends of which are substantially symmetrical and which extend rearwardly and approximately parallel to each other, forming a vent, consisting in stitching the rear edge of the one piece vamp lining to the forward edge of a one piece quarter lining at one side only of the shoe upper, securing the lining sections so prepared to the quarter of the shoe upper by top stitching said quarter lining and quarter together, thereafter inserting the rear edge of the vamp lining at the opposite side of the shoe between the quarter and quarter lining at the latter side, and securing the latter edge of the vamp lining permanently to said forward edge of the quarter lining by a seam lying behind the forward edge of the quarter.

JOHN J. SHEA.