US1708628A - Shoe welting and method of making the same - Google Patents

Description

April 9, 1929. H.,LYoN ET AL 1,708,628

SHOE WELTING AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed March 29, 1928 0 3l 34' y( y RNEY Patented Apr. 1929.`

UNITED" STATES I PATENT OFFICE.

HARRY LYON', 0Fv HOLBROOK, AND LORENZO H. GILBON, 0I' BROCITOUN, IABSACHU- .SETTS, ASSIGNOBS TO PEBLEY BABBOUB, TRADING HARBOUR WELTING OOI- PAN Y, F IBBOCKTON, IIAS'SLCHUSETT suon wEL'rnm AND neuron for mme rm: SAIE.

` 'Application led Iarch 29, 1928. Serial No. 265,677.

Thisinventionrelates to the manufacture of shoe welting and more particularly to two unit welting of the kind for giving a heavy edge effect to the Ashoe in which it is used..

f Heretofore it has been the'general practice to produce a heavy edge on a shoe by adding an intermediate sole and outseaming both soles to a Goodyear welt. The general obl ject of the present invention is to provide the 10 same heavy edge on the shoe by a specially formed two-unit welt outseamed to the usual outsole only, thereby saving the very considerable expense of the intermediate sole. There `is ample wearin a single sole, in factv with the double soledshoe re-soli-ng is demanded by the owner upon wearing through to the intermediate sole, so lthat this invention gives all the advantages heretofore attained but with much less sole leather and the consequent saving of this expensive stock. Further objects of the invention are to produce heavy edged welting from two units in an economical manner while preserving the extension, retaining the shape insurance advantages of certain types of beaded Goodyear welting," providing an inner margin that will not interfere with the sewing of a tight inseam, and insuring that the preferred two-unit construction will have its units permanently secured after embodiment in the shoe.

To the accomplishment of these objects and such others as may hereinafter appear, the invention comprises the features of construction, combination of parts and process of manufacture hereinafter described and then particularly pointed out in the a pended clalms.

The preferred form of v'the invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawing, all

the views being in erspective., and in which Figure 1 is a view o the fillet before severing; Fig. 2 is a view of the fillet after severing; Fig'. 3 is a view of the two units prepared for assembly; Fig. 4 is a view ofthe two units asf.-

sembled but before molding;v Fig. 5 is a view 5 of the welting molded to shape and ready for sewing toa shoe and` .Fig-6 isa view of a --fportion of a Goodyearshoe having a single .jputsole and the welt of this invention emlsodied therein.

In the embodiment of the invention illustrated in the drawing the heavy weltin is obtalned by severing into two parts-a let 10 that is somewhat narrower than twice the overall width of the finished welting. For example, for half-inch welting the fillet need be but thirteen-sixteenths of an inch wide and the process of the present invention effects a Eroportlonatesaving for other widths. The

llet 10 is severed into two parts, to produce a bottom unit 12 and a top unit 14, by a central longitudinal cut 15 (dotted lines Fig. 1) of double-angle -form orl substantially Z- shaped. The two units are shown se arated in Fig. 2, the bottom unit having a s oulder 16 at its grain side G and the top unit having a shoulder 18 at its fleshside F. The central portion of the cut 15 is in a plane parallel to the grain .side of the fillet and is nearer to the f grain side producing a relatively thin grain flap 20 at the inner edge of the top unit. Also the shoulder 18 on the top unit is formed by an end cut that is' oblique to the plane of the flesh -side of the fillet so as to produce a bevel 21 at the inner edge of the scarf on the bottom unit.. The shoulder cut 18 is so positioned widthwise of the fillet that the overall l widtlrof the bottom unit `exactly the width desired for the finished welting and the shoulder cut 16'is preferably positioned to produce a top unit of equaloverall width. The stitchrecelving'groove 22 (Fig. 5) in the grain side of the bottom unit 12 may be cut at any time but preferably is cut after the fillet has been stripped.

Having stripped the fillet 10 as described, the bottom unit 12 may be repared for the preferred method of assem ly with the to unit by coating the entire flesh side, whic now becomes4 the'upper face of the bottom unit, with a tacky cement. The top unit 14 is then-laid above the, bottom unit 12 (Fig. 3), and its fiesh side is placed in contact with said cemented flesh side of the bottom unit, care being taken to maintain the outer edges 24 flush with each other. This manner of su rposng the two strips brin the two shoul ers 16- and 18 into vertical alignment and leaves v the two inner margins, thinned by the stripping cut, separated. The two separatedportions at the inner margin,"` are then joined by pressing the flap 2O downward and inward against the shoulder 16 and into the angle be` low it until it contacts with the bottom unit thus producing a unitary thinned inner inargin. This operation is preferably accomplished by rollers, or other suitably shaped molds, that form up the assembled units while maintaining their uncut edges 24 flush, or in the saine vertical plane. This step produces the substantial inwardly facing shoulders 26 on the'top unit 14 above the stitch-receiving groove 22 which, when the welting is incorporated in a shoe, lies opposite the edge of the insole and, by its support of this portion of the upper, serves to 'prevent running over. The width of the top unit is important in this respect since its seeurementby the outseam stitching prevents any detachment from the upper. The grain flap 2,0 insures the desired finished appearance over the upper corner of the shoulder 26.

The novel heavy welt is handled in one piece by the welt sewing machine operator just as simply as Goodyear welting is handled. The bevel 21 enables the inner margin to be bent and fitted snugly into the angle, beneath the feather of the insole 28 (Fig. 6) and the thinned inner margin 30 (Fig. 5) enables the operator to sew a tight inseam. It will be observed that the inseam stitches 31 pass through both unitsA of the Welting, including the flap 20, thus anchoring the top unit to the bottom unit and drawing the shoeshape-holding shoulder 26 snugly against the upper 32. The two units are further secured by the outseam 33 and the outsole 34.

rlhose skilled in the art may readily vary the `cut-ting to produce the two units or the shape of the units but all variations within the skill of the artisan are intentionally inelluded within the scope of the appended c anus.

'llie nature and scope of the inventiouhaving been indicated, and its preferred einbodiment and the method of its manufacture having been specifically described, what is claimed as new, is

`1.` Two unit welt-ing in which eachl unit has an outer margin of regular welt thickness and a thinned inner margin, the outer edges of said outer margins being iiu'sh and the inner margins being joined and'presenting a substantial inwardly facing shoulder.

2. Shoe welting comprising a bottom unitl having a thinned inner margin and a top unit having` arthinned inner margin presenting an inwardly facing shoulder between it and` the inner margin of the bottom unit, and' said two margins being joined to form a unitary inner margin while mation.

3. Shoe welting comprising top and bottom' preserving said shoulder forthrough the Welt units each of the same overall width assem-y bled with their outer edges flush, said bottom unit having a stitch-receiving groove and said top unit having a portion of its inner margin removed to present an inwardly facing shoulder above said groove- 4. Leather shoe welting comprising top and bottom units, said bottomunit having .the complete overall width 'of the weltiiig 'and being provided with a stitch-receiving groove, and .said top unit presenting its grain side with an inner margin comprising a grain flap providing an inwardly facing shoulder above said groove, saidiap being laid against said shoulder and the inner margin ,of said bottoni unit. v y

5. Two unit shoe welting comprising a bottom unit having an outer margin of full thickness, a top unit having a like outer mar-` gin and an inner margin undercut to form a flap at its inner edge, said flap being secured to the inner margin ofthe bottom unit.

6. Two unit shoe welting comprising a bottom unit having a stitch-receiving groove, a top unit flush at its outer edge with said bottom unithaving an inwardly facing shoulder above said groove and a thinned margin overlying the margin o f said bottomunit inward of said shoulder.

' 7. vThe method of making two unit'leather welt-ing which comprises stripping a fillet longitudinally with a central double angle cut to produce atop unit strip having a grain fiap at its inner edge terminating in a flesh side shoulder and a bottom unit strip having 10o a grain side shoulder at its inner margin, assembling said strips with the flesh of said top unit against the liesh of said bottom unit, and pressing said Hap into the angle spaced at the inner margin formed by thus assembling said units. Y

8. The methodof making two unit leather welting which comprises forming a bottoni unit strip having a stitch-receiving groove in itsvinner margin at its under side, forming ing a top unit strip having the flesh at its inner margin removed -leaving a grain flap and a flesh shoulder, superposing said strips wi-th their outer edges flush and with the fiesh `shoulder of the top unit above said groove in. the bottom unit, and securing said flap to the inner margin of the bottom unit.

9. The method of making two unit welt-ing which comprises stripping a fillet longitudinally with a central double angle cut, the cen- "tral portion thereof being parallel to the faces ofsaid fillet and the two end portions emerging at the opposite faces, respectively,

vand forming together the portions inward of said shoulder to produce a thinned inner mar- D 10. The method of making two unit leather Welting which comprises stripping a fillet the two strips thus produced with their unlongitudinally with a central Z-shaped out out edges flush and the thinned margins 'the bar of which is parallel to the'grain side formed by said stripping cut separated, and 10 of the fillet and the ends of which emerge finally forminga, single unitary margin from from the grain and flesh sides thereof, the said two thinned margins.

end cut emerging from the flesh side being HARRY LYON.

oblique to the plane. of said side, superposing LORENZO H. GILSON.

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