US1588878A

US1588878A - Collar

Info

Publication number: US1588878A
Application number: US688172A
Authority: US
Inventors: Garry J Dormandy
Original assignee: Lion Collars & Shirts Inc
Current assignee: Lion Collars & Shirts Inc
Priority date: 1924-01-24
Filing date: 1924-01-24
Publication date: 1926-06-15
Anticipated expiration: 1943-06-15

Description

- June 15 1926. 1,588,878

5. J. DORMANDY COLLAR I Filed Jan. 24, 1924 Patented June 15, 1926.

UNITED STATES teasers sa'rssr orr'iciz.

GARRY J. DORMANDY, 0F TROY, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR TO LION" COLLARS & SHIRTS, ING., OF TROY, YORK, A QOBEORATION OF NEW YORK.

COLLAR.

Application filed January 24, 1924. Serial No. 688,172.

As is well known, it is desirable in numerous collars that the longerof the two extensions at the ends of the neckband point higher than the band, or form a lock-end, so-called. That is to say, it is often desirable that the upper edge of the long exten sion form a reentrant angle with the upper edge ofthe body of the neckband. Such an upturned extension is adapted to interlock underneath the fold at the opposite end of the collar and this helps to hold the points of the collar together and improves the fit about the neck. Usually this upturned eX- tension is cut from the band material integral with the body portion of the neckbank. My invention is directed toward providing such an upturned extension on collars in which the material of the band is such that it is unadapted to provide an integral extension pointing higher than the body of the band, particularly when the upper edge of the neckband is formedby the salvage ofthe material from which the neckband is cut. The manner in which I do this will be understood from the following descriptionof particular applications of my invention, from which it will also be apparent that the invention is applicable to the shorter of the two end extensions if desired, or to both extensions.

In the accompanying drawing, Figure 1 is an elevation of theinside surface of a foldover collar embodying my invention, thecollar being opened out fiat; Figures 2, 3 and 4 are similar elevations of single ends of other collars showing modifications; Figure 5 is a section of thecollar of Fig. 1 on line 5-5 Figure 6 is an elevationof a single end of a further modification, and Figure? is a section thereof on the line 77 Figure 8 illustrates how double selvaged material may be employed to reduce waste.

The collar construction shown in Figs. 1 to 5 does not differ materially from that i which has long beencommon, except that the upper edge of the band is selvaged and that the collars incorporate my invention. The band is composed of separate blanks or layers 1 and 20f any suitable fabric which is so cut from lengths of cloth that the natural selvage of the woven cloth forms the top edge of the body of the band blanks, i. e. from point A to point B. In the customary manner the blanks are infolded. (for finish) a and sewn together at the lower edge 3 and known manner. As is understood, the selvage atthe top of the band blanks furnishes adequate finish in itself and hence renders it unnecessary to infold theband material at this seam. 'By this means therefore the number of thicknesses of fabric at this seam is reduced to a minimum and a sharp-edge folding of the fold-over is made possible. Since however the upper edges of the main or body portions of the band blanks (from, A to B). are in fact the extreme edges of the fabrics from which the blanks are cut, it is obviously impossible to socut thegoods that the upturned extension or lock-end 10, the upper edge of which forms a reentrant angle with the edge A-B of the band body, is integral with the body portion ofthe band blanks, for the edge of the goods is necessarily substantially straight, or possibly is slightly curved in the opposite direction. The lock-end 10, it will be understood, is to extend under the top or fold-over 5' at the opposite end of the collar, so as to hold the points of the collar together and support the front of the collar where the pressure of the neck or chin-is likely to break it down. To

provide a rising extension therefore, of

seam or seams as 13, the outer one of which at least is disposed suiliclently to the rear to be well covered by the fold-over 5 and thereby concealed from view when the collar is in use. As shown in Figure 1, for example. the upper edge ofthe

upturned extension pieces

11 and 12 may be carried straight back to the bottom of the band, the latter being cut off at a corresponding angle and the body and extension pieces being sewn together at 13 where they come in contact. Preferably at least so much of the edges of the

extension pieces

11 and 12 are sewn to the band body pieces (from B to C in Figure 1) are selvaged edges and the body pieces are inserted and sewn betweenthese selvages, the latter beingunfolded and laid flat against the out side of the body blanks of the ban d (Fig. for this produces a finished seam containing a minimum number of thicknesi of fabric. In the Qt truction of F 1, th' also brings the St?l\ V of the e);

sion blanks

11 and 12 to the upper edge E of the completed er;- tension 10 and requires no infolding or other finishing; at this edge, although infolding or other finishing; may be resorted to if desired. The remaining edges of the extension members 1 usually infold or they may be otherw se finished. Tire joining of the two blanks or

member

11 and 12 of the extension is completed by a line or lines of stitching as indicated by the broken lines in the drawing. Figure illustrates a consiructhin in which the joining seam between the extension and the body of the band is farther to the rear of the collar; this may be desirable to conceal the same in certain styles of collars. In this form, the exten sion blanks 11 and 12 may be selvagcd from C to D as before, and intolded for finish from D to B and elsewhere. In certain cases or with certain kinds of collars the seam or seams may be brought further to the front (Fig. 3). Figure a illustrates that the band pieces are not necessarily inserted between selvaged edges of the extension blanks. In this instance the body and extension blanks are sewn together by entirely internal seams; this may be accomplished in various ways. for example by a process which inyolves hand turning of the band after these pieces have been sewn together in a manner that will be understood by those skilled in the art. The

broken lines

15 and 16 indicate the ends of the body blank and the extension blank respectively after the same have been sewn together and then turned back and ironed fiat against the inside of the band.

Since the band extensions may be made of any material, quite independent of the material used in the body of the hand, my invention has the further advantage that it may be used to improve the appearance of the collar in certain instances. Thus in certain instances it is desirable that the band and the fold-over be made of different materials. By making the long extension blanks or at least the outer blank 12 thereof (i. c. the one more remote from, the neck of the wearer) of the same material as the fold-over, the collar when in use will seem to be made of a single material throughout and a better appearance presented than is the case where that part of the band material which is exposed between ends of the foidover above the tie is a quite different fabric from that of the fold-over.

In the described constructions of Figs. 1 to 3. it will be observed that the number of thicknesses of fabric at the seam or seams 13, equals at least the sum of the number of thicknesses of fabric in the body of the band plus the number of thicknesses in the extension. In the present instance there are four thicknesses at this scam line, see Figure 5. Ordinarily this extra thickness at these seams will not be objectionable but it is possible to reduce their number by otli'setting these seams as illustrated in Figs. 6 and 7. In these figures the top edges of the

extension blanks

11 and 12 are assumed to be selraged as in Figure 1 (from C to B and at E). The inner extension blank 11 in Figure (5 (that one of the two blanks which is nearer the neck of the wearer) is set at a somewhat greater angle to the bottom edge of the hand than the outer extension blank. The scam 1? between the outer extension blank 12 and the outer blank 2 of the body of the band is somewhat higher and farther to the rear therefore than the seam 18 between the inner extension blank 11 and the inner body blank 1, so that the combined seams are somc what wider than before, but in no part incorporate more than three thicknesses of cloth (Fig. 7). Furthermore, for illustrative purposes the bottom ecges of the blanks 1 and 2 of the band body of Figure (3 may be assuu'red to be selvancd edges like the upper edges of the band; that is to say, these body blanks 1 and Q are cut from fabric that is woven of exactly the same width as the body blanks. This practice leads to certain economies in the cutting of the fabric, for a portion of the woven material which other wise is discarded as waste, can be readily used effectively because of the two selvanes which the strip n'iaterial presents fO'r use. Thus for example. Figure 8 illustrates a strip of band material of the same width as the body blanks 1 and 2 of the collar to be made from it, and both edges of which are selvaged. By cutting this narrow strip of fabric alongthe broken line 21, the angular end (C to B) of one body blank is formed ready for stitching; to an extension member. By cutting); oti a piece of the remaining nut-- terial along the broken line 22, an extension member or blank 11 or 12 is formed; reversing this extension blank, the bottom selvag'c of the strip at 2?) becomes the top selvage of the extension blank. i. e. from G to B and at E. Finally. cutting; the remaining end of the strip alone the line forms the short-extension end of the next body blank, and the process is then repeated for the entire length of the strip of fabric. The sole part of the material wasted therefore is that of the small pieces lying between the cutting: lines 22 and 21-. It is not necessary that the extension blank 11 or 12 obtained in this way, be attached to the body blank from which it is originally cut; it may be assembled in another collar or with a body blank cut from another strip of material. Therefore judicious assembly of extension part of the collar, and that it is not limited to the exact construction illustrated and clescribed above except as appears in the following claims.

Claims-- 1. A collar comprising a band member,

- the upper edge of the main or body portion of which band member is a selva ed edge, and which band member has a separately cut upturned extension attached to one end of its main or body portion and which extension reaches to a point above said upper edge of the main or body portion of the band member.

2. The steps in the method of making a woven fabric collar which consists in cutting the band body portion from a woven fabric, separately cutting from a woven fabric a piece to extend from the end of said band body portion and form at its upper edge a re-entrant angle with the upper edge of said body portion, and sewing substantially the edge of said piece to substantially the end of said band body portion.

8. The steps in the method of making a fold-over collar from woven fabric which is unadapted to provide an integral lock end, which consists in cutting the body portion of the band shorter than the fold-over at one end so that said end of the band body lies underneath the fold-over, separately cutting from woven fabric a lock-end piece to extend from said short end of the band body and form at its upper edge a re-entrant angle with the upper edge of said band body, and sewing substantially the edge of said piece to substantially said end of said band body, so that the seam is concealed by the fold-over when the collar is in use and there is produced on said end of the collar a lock end adapted to extend under the fold-over at the opposite end of the collar and support the front where the pressure of the neck and chin tend to break down the front.

4. A collar comprising a neckband body member, the upper edge of which is selvage, a separate fold-over member attached to said selvaged edge, and a separate extension member attached to an end of said band body member and reaching to a point above the upper edge of said body member.

5. A collar comprising a neckband body member, the upper ed 'e of which is selvage, a separate fold-over member attached to said selvaged edge, and a separate extension member, the upper edge of which is selvage and is sewn fiat against one end of said band body member, and said extensionmember reaching above the upper edge of said body member to interlock underneath the fold-over at the other end of the collar.

6. A collar comprising two neckband body members the upper edges of which are selvages, a separate fold-over inserted between the same and sewn thereto, and an upturned interlocking extension at one end of the neckband consisting of two members the upper edges of which are selvages and are laid flat against the outside of said neckband members and sewn thereto.

7. A collar comprising a neckband body portion, a fold-over, and a separately cut upwardly pointing extension at one end of the band consisting of two layers of fabric sewn to opposite sides of the neckband body, one of said layers reaching farther to the rear of the collar than the other and the two layers being sewn to the neckband portion by individual lines of stitching.

8. A collar comprising a band member, which band member has a separately-cut tension attached to one end of its main or body portion, one of the two longitudinal edges of the main or body portion of the band member being a selmge edge and the corresponding edge of the extension forming a re-entrant angle with said selvage edge.

In testimony whereof, I have signed this specification.

GARRY J. DOB-MANDY.