US156086A - Improvement in dress-charts - Google Patents

Description

A. M. HENVILLE.

Dress-Charts.

Patented Oct. 20,1874.

INVENTOR BY M ATTORN EYS WITNESSES m: GIA PHIC CO. PHOTO LITN. 35 1 4| MK PLACE, Pl.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

AMANDA M. HENVILLE, OF CHELSEA, MASSACHUSETTS.

IMPROVEMENT IN DRESS-CHARTS.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 166,086, dated October 20, 1874; application filed May 23, 1874.

To all whom t't may concern:

Be it known that I, AMANDA MALVINA HEN- VILLE, of Chelsea, in the county of Sufiolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented a new and valuable Improvement in Dress-Outting; and I do hereby declare that thefollowin g is a full, clear, and exact description of the construction and operation of the same, reference being had to the annexed drawings making a part of this specification, and to the letters and figures of reference marked thereon.

Figures 1 and 2 of the drawings are representations of my dress-makers chart.

This invention has relation to dress-makers charts; and it consists in the form and novel relation of the different portions of a chart, whereby simplicity is attained, with convenient economy of space or portability, as hereinafter more fully set forth.

The object of the invention is to provide a simple and compact guide of small size, by the use of which an accurate and reliable fit may be secured. It is especially adapted for the use of mothers and others not necessarily skilled in the art of dress-making, and even for dress-makers it will be found a valuable aid.

In the accompanying drawings, the letter A designates the main portion or body of the chart, and B an extension thereof, called the dart-rule, which may be formed in one piece with the main portion, but which is preferably cut separately, and hinged to the other part, as shown at a. The outlines of the main portion A are somewhat irregular, and may be described as follows: At the opposite end from the hinge a is formed a short rectangle, b, the longer edge 0 of which is a guide for the back of the neck, and at the same time, being placed parallel with the edge of the goods, indicates the position of the front shoulder-rule d, which is a concave curve running from the end of the shorter edge 0 of the rectangle somewhat obliquely, and terminating in a straight edge, graduated for different sizes by means of a succession ofnumbers indicating the chest-measure, as at e, and terminating at the hinge or fold ct. Continuous with the front shoulder-rule is the outer edge f of the dartrule B, which is numbered, as shown, for the higher chest-measures, and to this extent forms a portion of said front shoulder-rule. From the termination of the inner edge f of the dart-rule the arm-size rule 9 is rounded out in convex form, as shown in the drawings, the convexity gradually becoming less, and terminating in a slightly concave end, which is connected with the long edge 0 of the rectangle by an oblique edge, It. Each edge of the dart-rule is convex, the curvature increasing toward the point is, near which is the back armsize rule I. The front of the neck is marked through a series of perforations, m, through the main chart A, which, to prevent wear, should be lined with metallic eyelets. The varying curvature of the lower end of the armsize rule is similarly indicated by the perforations n. I,

The following directions are given for the use'of this chart: Take the chest-measure by passing the tape across the chest, under the arms, and across the back, drawing tight. Take the width of the bust and of the back between the arm-sizes, and the length under the arm, and size around the waist. Now, place the dart-rule B with the linef an inch from the edge of the goods, and draw a line. Dot in the perforations for the neck. Place the shoulder-rule at the highest dot with the back-of-neck line parallel with the edge of the goods, and draw a line along the edge of rule to the number indicating the chest-measure. Dot at half of bust-measure taken from front edge, and form arm-sizes outside of that dot. Get the length of waist, and draw a line. Place the dart-rule with the portion marked back arm-size under the front one, and draw a line for height of dart; then form the darts. Dot at half of waistmeasure, leaving off one-third for the back, and adding on the width of darts, and draw a line to this point under the arm with the dart-rule. By cutting the cloth the complete front is made.

To form the back, place the chart upon the doubled cloth with line 0 at right angles to the folded edge of goods; draw a line along the edge of back neclcrule, and measure from that with a tape to that part of back between the arnrsizes. From middle of back on this line measure half width of back, and make dot. From this point use the back arm-size rule with the tapering point up. Shape the shoulder with the dart-rule point down. Get the length of Waste from the dot, and draw a line.' Measure the width, and form the line for seam under the arm.

In drafting with this chart, the modern style of short shoulder is obtained, which needs no alteration in order to fit Well.

What I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

The chart A, having on one side the shoulder-rule d, and on the opposite side the armsize g, and at its end the dart-rule extension B, substantially'as specified.

In testimony that I claim the above I have hereunto subscribed my name in the presence of two Witnesses.

AMANDA MALVINA HENVILLE.

Witnesses:

WM. J. FOSTER, Jos. O. FOSTER.

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