US613988A - System for drafting dresses - Google Patents

Description

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SYSTEM FOR DRAFTING DRESSES.

(Applicaion filed Nov. 26, 1897.)

2 Sheets-Sheet I,

(No Model.)

No. 613,988. Patented Nov. 8, |898.

' M. GOUDHUE.

SYSTEM FOB DRAFTING DRESSES.

(Application Bled Nov. 26, 1897.) (No Model.)

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UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

MELISSA GOODHUE, OF KEENE, NEW HAMPSHIRE.

SYSTEM FOR DRAFTING DRESSES.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters latentA No. 613,988, dated November 8, 1898.

Application filed November 26, 1897. Serial No. 659,896. (No model.)

vided for drafting skirts, these consisting principally of a series of graduated rules adapted to indicate the lines of the breadth and gores; but with these devices a great deal of calculation was necessary and the length and the breadth of the gore were taken directly from the waist-line, and this has made it diiiicult to make a perfect fit by reason of the failure to secure a proper relation between the waist-line and the hip-line in drafting the inclined lines from the waist to the bottom of the skirt. In my invention, however, I make provision for this, and the gore or bias-lines are drafted with due relation to the hip-lines, and thus a perfect fit is assured.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure l represents a diagram of my improved device arranged in position to draft the first side gore of a iive-gox'ed skirt with the waist nine and one-half, the hip thirteen, the bottom of the breadth thirty-six, and the length forty inches. Fig. 2 isa detail view of the combined waist-and-hip form, showing the dart-indicator. Fig. 3 is a sectional view of Fig. 2. Fig. 4 is a detail view of part of the waist-and-hip form, showing means of applying tables of measurement.

In the figures I first provide a form A,which may be made of any suitable material, this being in the shape of an open frame with the top and bottom edge cut on the same curve and both edges properly graduated. This provides two concentric portions a b, a constituting the waist-line and b the hip-line. The open space between the concentric parts 5o o, and b provides for the use of a movable piece c, which is supported upon the part a and has its point bearing on the part b, this constituting a dart-indicator, in order to avoid fullness between the waist and hip lines. One

end of the form A has a socket d, adapted to` receive a graduated rule e, which preferably is hinged at its center, so as to cause it to occupy less space when not in use, permitting itto be folded. Pivoted to the lower end of the rule e is a curved rule f, also made in two parts hinged together, so as to be adapted to be folded,and the pivoted connection between the straight and curved rules allows the compact folding of these rules together,.which is desirable, as when not in use they occupy but little space and may also be readily transported. The curved rule f gives the proper curvature to the bottom of the skirt, and I make the rule at one end where it adjoins the straight rule e perfectly straight on the bottom for about five inches, and from this point the rule gradually curves, making a segment of a circle of about ten degrees. In connection with the straight and the curved rule I use a third rule, which extends between the form A and the curved rule, this rule being also preferably made in two parts hinged together and indicated at g.

In the use of the invention the form A is placed in the position shown in Fig. l, with the waist-line at the forty-inch mark on the rule e. Rule g is now placed on the nine and one-half inch mark of the waist-curve, and in order to get proper relation to the hipline the rule passes over the thirteen-inch mark on the hip-curve, while the end of the curved rule f is brought against the fortyinch mark on the rule g, thus giving the proper length, and at the same time there is secured the proper relation between the waist and the hip lines in the amount of material drafted for each. In order to take up the fullness, darts are-indicated through the me dium of the indicator C.

It will be seen that by the use of the hip*- lines the measurement to kthe bottom of the skirt is practically from this line, for Athe reason that the fullness above this line and between it and the waist-line is taken up by the darts, and thus the dress or skirt drafted by the use of this system will hang perfectly, for the reason that instead of being drawn upon lines extending from the waistline the lines really run from the hip-line downwardly.

The use of the system can be facilitated by the use of a suitable table giving the measurement fordilferent sizes and kinds of skirts or dresses, as indicated in Fig. 4, and these tables may be utilized on other portions of the device, if found desirable.

Vhat I clairn is- 1. In a system for drafting dresses a form having top and bottom edges made concentric and suitably graduated, said concentric parts constituting the waist and hip lines, a graduated ruleadapted to coact with said forms and iittedto one end thereof, acurved rule properly graduated and adapted to be used for the-bottom line and a third rule properly graduated adapt-ed to be used between the curved rule and the form, substantially as described.

2. In a system for drafting dresses, a form having concentric portions constituting waist and hip lines and a dart-indicator carried thereby.

3. In a system for drafting dresses, a form having waist and hip lines concentrically arranged, straight graduated rules adapted to be used in connection therewith and a bottoin rule, one end thereof being straight for a portion of its length and the remainder of the rule forming a segment of a circle, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I aflix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

MELISSA 'GOODHUE Witnesses:

JAMES BAsToN, MARY A. ROURKE.

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