US1516224A - Garment-cutting system - Google Patents

Description

Nov. 18, 1924.

F. W. WARD GARMENT CUTT ING SYSTEM Filed April 11'.

1924 2 Sheets-Sheet l Nov. 18, 1924. 1,516,224

F. w. WARD GARMENT CUTTING SYSTEM Filed Abril 11. 1924 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Nov. 18, 1924.

-UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

FREDERICK W. WARD, OF MONTREAL, QUEBEC, CANADA, ASSIGNOR OF ONE-HALF TO NORMAN'HQLLAND, OF WESTMOUNT, QUEBEC, CANADA.

GARMENT-CUTTING SYSTEM.

Application filed April 11, 1924. Serial No. 705,901.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, FREDERICK W. WARD, of the city of Montreal, Province of Quebec, Dominion of Canada, a subject of the King of Great Britain, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Garment-Cutting Systems; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description thereof.

My invention relates particularly to a system of cutting vests.

Heretofore it has not been possible to so out a vest that the neck portion Will overlie a collar attached. to the shirt: of the wearer but was, defective in that the edge of the neck found its way beneath the edge of the collar and in addition to destroying the neat appearance also created discomfort and caused abrasion of the vest in the vicinity of its edge, resulting in uneven wear.

My invention has for its object to remedy these defects, and to this end consists in cutting the vests from pat-terns, the neck portion both front and facings of .which are adapted to have one sprung to position with regard to the other, thereby producing a fullness at the side of the neck. This fullness is utilized to cause the neck portion to stand almost perpendicular to the line of the shoulder.

For full comprehension. however, of my invention reference must be had to the accompanying drawings in which similar reference characters indicate the same parts and wherein:

Figure 1 is a perspective view of a vest in place on a wearer .with the-shirt collar indicated; 7

Figures 2 and 3 are detail views of the patterns from which the neck piece and fore part are cut;

Figure 4 illustrates the facings in position on the fore parts, the position before seaming the neck facing to the fore part being indicated in full lines and the position lafter seaming being indicated in dotted mes;

Figure 5 illustrates the neck piece and fore part in their relative positions when 0 the first seaming is being done;

.Figures 6 and 7 illustrate the relative positions of these parts when the first seamis completed;

Figure 8 illustrates the positions of these.

lines d, e and f disposed in three different angular directions and the fore part A is out with two faces 9 and h, while the facing is so out that it will lie about one inch further back (towards the back) when placed on the fore part and neck piece (see Fig. 4:).

The neck piece I) is seamed to the fore part A by first bringing the edges (1 and g together. Then seaming them together, after which and during the same seaming operation the edge e of the neck piece issprung to the edge 72. of the fore part. The completion of'this seam joins these edges. The making of the vest then proceeds in the usual way until it is time to put on the facings which are seamed on in the usual manner as indicated in Figure 4 from B to C. When point C is reached the operator springs the free end of the neck piece thus producing a fullness at point p to coincide with the extra fullness g at the point of connection between the fore part and neck pieces. The seam is then continued to point 6 This fullness along the edge of the vest at the side of the neck produces an effect which causes it to lie on top instead of beneath the edge of the usual linen collar attached to the shirt of the wearer. I

The extra length provided at the side of the neck allows the vest to fall into the natural hollow of the front shoulder thus ensuring a more perfect fit at this point and eliminating strain.

Operation.

The neck piece is seamed to the fore part A by first bringing the edge (Z of the neck part and g of the fore pant together and as the seam progresses from these edges the neck piece 6 is turned to bring the edge a of the neck piece and h of the fore art together, the seaming being continue to the point 6 until the neck piece and fore part are united in this manner as far as the point 6 This is the point where the shoulder seam begins. The vest in this state is illustratedin Figure 6. The making of the vest is then continued in the usual way until it is time to put on the facings. The facings are now seamed in place from the side seam along the bottom edge of the front edge to the point k on the neck facing k, as shown particularly in Figure 3. The seaming is momentarily stopped and the facing coincide as far as the back of the neck, indicated at I). From this point the making proceeds in the usual way until the back is sewn in. Then the surplus length offacing and neck piece which are determined also in the usual way by the width of theback are cut off.

This cutting system permits the Vest maker to tape the vest all around the neck, the necessary fullness being provided.

My improved vest making system is applicable to either a high neck or low neck vest but care must be taken to maintain the proper relation and dimensions of the angular attachment edges (1 and e of the neck piece I) and g and h of the forepart A, thus enabling the height of the neck of the vest to be varied to suit long or short neck at I 'claim is as follows: A system of making a vest consisting in cutting a neck piece with an attachment por-' certain distance towards the back of the garment from its normal position in con- ]unction with the fore part and neck piece, then seaming the neck piece to the fore part, then seaming the said parts together and during the seaming operation springing the edge of the neck piece to the-edge of the fore part, thus producing a fullness at the point of connection between the fore part; and neck piece, then placing the neck facing with the front facing seamed to it on the neck piece and fore part, seaming the front facing in place and as the seam is progressing into the neck facing springing the free end of the neck facing and bringing its edge to the edge of the neck piece, for the purpose of producing fullness in the facing coinciding with the fullness the neck piece and fore part.

In testlmony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two witnesses.

FREDERICK W. WARD. 7

Witnesses:

GORDON G. Coon,

HARRIE'I'IA MCDONALD.

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