US1435945A

US1435945A - Sewing machine

Info

Publication number: US1435945A
Application number: US244362A
Authority: US
Inventors: Walter W Scott
Original assignee: UNICN SPECIAL MACHINE Co
Current assignee: UNICN SPECIAL MACHINE Co
Priority date: 1918-07-11
Filing date: 1918-07-11
Publication date: 1922-11-21
Anticipated expiration: 1939-11-21

Description

w; w. so. v SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JULYII. I9I8.

Il Patented NovB 2li, 1922.

5 SHEETS-SHEET I.

W. W. SCOTT.

SEWING MACHINE.v

APPLICATION FILED JULYII, 1918. Lgg Patented; NOV. 2L 15.922.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

W. W. SCOTT.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JuLYl1.|91e.

LSQQLO Hmmm Nov. 2R, 19232.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

W. W. SCOTT.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED IuLvII. I9Is.

Iywmc PmmwmzLIgzz.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

W. SCOTT. SEWING MACHINE.

APPucATloN rlLznJuu/H, 1918.

194:3@9450 mmm Nov. 211 R922.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 5.

'oi guidi j shaping und stilvhiiigg :i colhiietto io giii'iiioiit.

The oh'vieoi of iiho iiiwiiioii is. to provide ai sowing; iiiiichiiio liiii'iiigf guiding" devices for iiiliiig ii Coiliiioo Strip, whivh guiding' di vic/S zii", iso coiisti'uotiui iiiiil positioiiori i'oliitivo Co il@ siiohiiig iiieihziiiisiii hiit ihiy may lie shi mi 'iii' the operator zii will :ii (l Whom so Sliilizofi he food of the i'i'izichiiie drawing' the ooliii'otte Sti-ip through Suid guiding' avitos will omis/e tho giii-iiual Shi ing; of collzii'eie strip ai lio i'iiiiiiiii'ig; poi so :is to hiper "che Strip.

Figure l is ii 'i'oii'l View oi :i Sewing i chino liafii'ig my iiiipioi'od guiding devices :fioilied i\ lioi'oo; Figura la is i View parallel wiizli il'ug limi fue@ Showing 'the Jie-9d Clogs, iho iii-osso? -cl 'die strip guide;

2 is View, iiiiiliy iii section mijl i y iii top liiiiii, Showing' he woi'lf, support, piessoi foot, iii'iimiiig devices und guiding (lei/'isos for th collziie'o Strip;

.Figiii'o is a view iii plan, showing the pressoioot the guiding devices, wiii tha g iiidiiig devices shifted causing' 'the collinetta, xii-ip to be `ipood :ilk the fiiifiliiiigj @iid 'f i'f-ofg' s pn - is :gi View Similar to Figui,

mio iiiiiwii the sii i, idi: iii ils new positioi a sufi y ci'istziiioe io finish the "wiieiiiig the hito; j

*mio 5 is a front View a p oi'izioii oi liizio, showing my improved i" 'we in full lines positioned foi' the h@ iiiie A o ii'o i'ipi'osoi'iivs the upper poi-Mon of ishod gamioiit, iiiiviiig Vtho Colliiiotte applied aircoi'iliiigi io my invention.

dio Shaping of :i collai'otte strip zit ho ands 'hereof iiiul tho stitching oi thoszii'iie to :i

hoily if iii nel lios been stitched. 'it

l fi'oiii about the points (i to siip is secure/il to tho frau'- stitcho, 'indicated iii: Ti. These :is lieioiii shown, are coveringitiwhes and :iio iii'ofoi'ziliiy io 1i/ii by two dg'es of the Qoiiisio'ie :i Tigri :imi :i coopeiiife Yih both noodles i@ iiiaei'ial and the lo por thread o odge of die looy izibic. :figli io 13 oi? die ifiiziwiiigs, l have shown e noodle threads of my piofei'ed form of iiohiiiw mechanism at n n, the upper cov- C? iig thi-@ad 21 c and the lowei' loopei thread The sewing machine to 'which my inven- 'iioii has been applied consifits of :i Work Figur@ 1() is ai View showing iiioi'o oil less i ii'uitivziliy, lie, i'iiiisliiiifr of one giii'- i nicht #die higiiiiiiiiig of another giiii'iioiit and this oolliii'etc strip :it @zichy support 1, al bed plate 2, carrying the work support, and an overhanging arm 3 mounted on the bed plate. Reciprocating at the forward end of the ovcrhanging arm 'is a needle bar 4, carrying two needles 5 and 6. The needle bar is reciprocated by a needle-lever 7, which is connected to an eccentric Strap t3, cooperating with an eccentric on the main shaft 9.

The covering' threadl c is led through a. fixed guide l() and an oscillating hoor 11 engages this covering thread l: and lays the same in loop form so that it is stitched down by the needle threads. A looper of the ordi nary construction cooperates withthe needles beneath the work support, and carries the looper thread The material is held on. the work support by a presser 'foot 12, carried by a .presser bar 13, .which may be of the usual construction. Said presser foot is formed with a guiding slot 1st, which extends from the extreme forward end thereof rear* wardly in the line ot' feed. The presser toot has a needle opening 15 through which the needles pass.

rlhe machine includes a trimming' mech` anism having horizontally disposed trim .min blades. (lne of these blades is indicate at 15. This blade is stationary and is fixed to the presser 'foot 12. Cooperating with this fixed blade is a movable blade 1G. These blades are so disposed as to trim the uptiirned edges yof the Jtabric sections directed into the guiding slot li. rlhe collarette strip passing underneath the presser foot'has its edges turned up` so as to be brought into the range ot' this trimming mechanism. Afterwards they are brought back into theplane or' the iabric sections and stitched, as above noted` by the stitching mechanism, which includes the needles 5 and G., the cross thread laying mechanism and the looper cri-operating therewith.

rlhe body portion oi" 'the garment G passes underneath the presser' foot, and is guided by a lip 17, mounted ,on the throat plate 18 andeextending upwardly therefrom. This lip is curved to the lett slightly, as viewed in Figures 7 and d. and serves to direct or iiptiirn the edges ofthe collai'ette strip to bring them into the range of the trimming devices. rl`he body tabric'is preferably passed through the machine without trimming as the neck ot the garment is usually shaped ready 'for the attachment of the collarette strip thereto. The collarette strip S is directed to the stitching mechanism by guiding devices which include' a tubular guide 19, which is carried by a bracket 20, and the bracket 20 is in turn clamped to the work support 1 by means ot the clamping screw 21.. The tabular guide 19 is secured to the lower end of an arm E' which is pivoted at 23 to the bracket 20. The lower end of this arm is bent laterally, as indi- The pivoted connection between the arm and thebraclret is of such a character as to vertically holdthe `arm in adjusted position against either stop.

The material .is fed underneath the presser toot by a feeding mechanism which includes iteed dogs 28, which may be of theusual construction and operated by any suitable mechanism. These feed dogs are preferably given diiei'ential feeding movement. `rli`he feed dogs and the collarette strip and draw underneath the presser toot.

ll'hen the parts are positioned, as shown in tiill lines in Figures 1 and 2, the collarette strip passing underneath the presser foot will be directed so that `only a small portion ot the edges will be trimmed ottv and the line of trimming will loe substantially parallel with the edges ot' the strip. "When the guiding devices are positioned, as' shown in Figure 3. then the tubular guide is arranged relative to the stitching mechanism, so that the folded edge ot the collarette strip and not the tree edges will be substantially in line'ivit.i the trimming 'point,.so that while the machine is operated and the guide maimoperate both iiion the bodi fabric l it determined by these adjustable stops 26 and;

tained in this position the line of cutting steps will take place rbefore the collarette strip will pass directly to the trimming members trom the tubular guide 19. As a re. suit. the line of trimming will follow the strip leading from the tubular' curved line between a, and indicated in Figures 1.0 and 14.# of the drawings. -T he rea.v son for this is thought to be apparent. The operator shifts the guide by hand and at will, and it is the feed of the machine drawing the strip in underneath the presser foot,

with this new position of the guide` which causes the-tapering of the collarette strip.

in the beginning of the collarette stitcha operation, 'the guide 19 is set, as viewed 'passes underin Figures 5 and The stri heath the presser toot and t e line of cutting is parallel ".vilfh the, folded edge an@ close thereto, rlhe resulting fiction oi 'ine stitching mechanism and trimmer on e collarette strip is indicacil in Figur@ ll the drawings wherein if.: will noted hzita small portion oi: he @allai-etti sii-ip is passing' through the nacliine underneath and lijf the erui quickly desirs to .definey a movement wherein ihr guida is shifted fronti one extra nr posiiun in the other wihiiu stopping; 'as distinguifi from a step by step innvcni n which i neressariij' a consiifirrnhle period oi? inn/Q. The ford draws the si'ir unilernoath tlm lpresser fooi anfl the srip ai once begins to shift g adualliv to iakr up his ncrv pi i i'ion of lead in unil/fir the 'il/mi'. a rvs-uli'v thu line ui' trimmingr graduali)y siiii's avrai from the foliliiii @dgn nl this rnilawifr si'rip and in tho rurvril lin@ JHH, as vimvnii in the lower part of Figure l0. This pro-@nnss a gradual tapering ni' ih@ rollarcbte siii" Tho stitrhinp prormals allor lic point a'. is ra-rliwl anil the s'rip is then oit iis normal width uniil the poin is 'reached nl ii. is ilesireil i0 aprr :nui finish ih@ @nil olf ih@ ('ollarvtir sirip lo rm'rrspoiil 'lo ''livy bng'inning @nil ihm-voi'. liu us assume lha his position at tho poin` i at 'lw upiwr purr of Figui-0 Il). Whmi 'his point is rvarhoil, the opvralor quirkly slii'ls ihn fluidi-i 'lil io the positinn shown in Figur@ il. y'lhe fowl runiinus io lraxv the strip unilernra'h illus foot and the si rip `gradually assunivs uis new position ol' load in uiulnrneaih the lool; anzi as a result ihn lin(l oi' riniining 'iii-nin to I), as inilirateil ai file upp'epariV oil Figuru 10.

lt will be noted hathe `guiilu is shiiiml ai will by the nperaiior andi the iinn ai whirh the tapering nl' the sirip begins is. lliere-- Torn1 controlled ,by the operator. No mai-- ter what size ille neck of ille. garment may be, the operator, when the ilesireei pnin is rearheil, shifts ihn guide and ihn i:v 0i' the collarete occurs. f" i 05u23 inra e operator shifts the guide to bring' about in@ tapering 01 i'ahs Collarete, the ziperi' s .ii-fit l 'gina about by any step by step r nf grml@9 but by n quick s..

il guiilnl which possibly occurs during he 'iioruiziion oi' :i single stitch and "ihn feed machin@ rather than uny step by Siep "ing nf the guide dalerniines the Chain will be obvious that minor Changes in the dnlails ci' ronstrurion and arrangement ni' paris may br ina le withoui departing L ironi the spirii" of thv invention. as sei forth in rire zippinilril rlainis.

l l my inven'ion, ann as new unil ile-sire to secure by raving hus describe( whirl' i Leticilo l for supporiing said inni-hanisur4 an i mains inl@ n'lwr n; ii may be shifted quickly with rho strip carried liereby and at, the will 0i' ihn operator transversely ci? h line oi i'wil from ono iixren'ie guiding posiion f 'io ano'her. saiil ,quiiie h ing disposed a sui'iirient ilisaiu-:f in adminis o ihn trimming' nua'hanisai su :hat iii@ srip may be swung io pnrini saiil shining; of the guide sind th I oi' ih@ guide 'in cause the strip :is i 'ihruugfh hs machine in be tapered 'The cnnibination with n sewing inahavingl siiching mechanism, feeding 6 if L l:

sli i li' Qhini, mechanism :in-Ll iii ining mechanism 0pr-rr-ing in advance oi ih@ sl'iching mecha l nisn`. ol n strip ruido iol' iiirecingp a strip in lhs rirniningj inerhanisin anal sitching n'irrhanisui, unil means Yfor supporing' snifl 'nhh whereby if; may be shif'd Quickly with ihr ip rarrieil ihereby and it 'dis ,vili ur i@ opfsraior transversely of ih@ ad from our ifxi'reine guiding; .'inhsig said fuiile being (iispns we in ailranre u? i *hal p may bs nos r il

flle machins t@ be .im

suppmxi if means including' brac nuians for niuiahly supporting the guide n i* saii'i bracket, and stops nr limit/iig ai niovfanien oi nids. The ion with sew-ing inarhiue 4kj siuhing mechanism, feeding rl i i ani? aiii in' gnienhanisin op-er- 3 2 s ui?1 inn itching inechanisine (lireczing a, strip 'lo h@ hanisni and stitching muchafor supporting sind @nids y be shifted quickly ar-,nsl2 e li o i from one exil-reine unsicher, said guide lssing distance in admins@ of i mism -liat. lle strip *lo parini@ sind shi @if the lui-iin nisni,

io il pic grile, porting .menne inciuding s i renin prvoted to tne bracket, end sdlgue die vstops for inenting the movement ot the @lie combinetion with s, sewing nie-- onine listing stitching mechanism, teeding nieclnnnisn'i .horizontally disposed trimmina; members opersting, in advance or the stitching mechanism, or s strip` guide for directing s strip to the trimming members end the stitching mechanism, means for snpportine; tiic seid guide whereby it may be shifted quicliy with the strip carried thereby' transversely of the line of feed from one extreme guiding position to another, seid guide being disposed sufficient distence in :tds/ence oi the trinnning members so tient the strip mcy be swung to permit seid sliiiiing orY the guide and the shitting of the guide to cause the strip es it is fed tlii'ouglrtiie machine to be tapered.

4vThe combination with e, sewing rnecliine having stitchingmechanism, feeding meclienismend horizontally dispos/ed trimming members operatingl;A in advance ofthe stitching mechanism, or e strip guide for directing s strip to the trimming members sind the stitching mechanism, means for supporting the seid guide whereby it may be shifted quickly with the strip carried thereby sind transversely of the iine of reed from one extreme guiding' position to snothen seid guide' being disposed a suiiicient d1stence in edi/ence of the trimming members c so that the strip may be swung to permit seid shifting of tire guide, said supporting ineens including s brochet, en erm pivoted to Eersel end cerrying; seid guide, end stops for limiting; the movement oi the erm.

(S. 'liie combine-tion with. s me chine leuning; stitching meclisnism, feeding meenemen; end horizontally' disposed trizn ming members operating' in advance of the stitching mechanism, of e, guide -for.

directing strip to the trimming members end tine stitching mechanism, means .for supporting; seid strip guide whereby the seme may be shifted quickly with the strip csrried thereby snel from position Where one edge of the strip is sdjncent the trimming iine to the other edge ot" ci.e sario e the trimming line, triminin li positionner the guide Wit. p

iin me s 4 f 7. lfne come ion in e, sewingmscline,

horizontally disposed trimming members operating across the guiding chsnnel, means for turning up the'edges of the folded fabric strip, whereby they are presented to the trimming members, the guide located in front-of the presser foot for guiding a, folded strip to the trimming members, and 'means for supporting the guide whereby it may be shifted quickly transversely of the line of feed from one extreme guiding position to mother extreme guiding position for shifting the trimming line relative to the strip y lout Within the limits of the strip.

8. The con'ibinotion in e sewing machine, oi stitching mechanism for 'forming parallel lines of connected stitches, feeding Ineens nism. a presser :toot having a guiding chennel extending fromv the front end of the presser :toot rearwardly in the line ot feed, horizontally disposed trimming members operating' ecross the guiding channel, means for turning up the edges of the'folded fabric strip, whereby they are presented to the trimming' members, ineens for guiding s body garment 'to the stitching mechanism whereby the edge thereof` passes between the needles, and ineens for guiding s, folded collsrette strip to the trimming members, seid lest named means including devices which may be shifted et will from one'- eX- treme guiding position to another and in s direction relative to tliepresser foot, so es to very the extent to which the edges of the oded strip ere raised above the horizontal trimming members, whereby the collarette strip attached to the body garment may be tuperedst each end of the collerette.

9. The combination in s sewing machine, of e, stitchingmechnnism for forming persi icl lines ot connected stitches, horizontally disposed trimming members in advance of the stitching meclisnism, means for ,guiding a, Ibody garment with the edge thereof be tween the lines' of stitching, means for guiding s folded collsrette strip-to the trimming members and the trimmed edges between the lines or` stitching, seid lest named medios including e shiitsble ido controlled st iso will by the operetor and v'disposed'relstive to Y trimming members end. movable relative thereto, 'whereby the collerette strip be trimmed so es to taper ends of the oollerette n; it is stitched to tl'ie body garment. lin testimony whereof, .li ems my signe,- ture, in the presence et two Witnesses.

l/VLTER W. 'SJCTT lflfitnesses C.. Mol?? J, R itinere?,