US1768026A

US1768026A - Sewing machine

Info

Publication number: US1768026A
Application number: US166704A
Authority: US
Inventors: Berger Joseph
Original assignee: Union Special Machine Co
Current assignee: Union Special Machine Co
Priority date: 1927-02-08
Filing date: 1927-02-08
Publication date: 1930-06-24
Anticipated expiration: 1947-06-24
Also published as: DE492791C; GB294824A; FR645580A

Description

June 24', 1930'. BEgGR 1,768,026

SEWING MACHINE 24, 1930. I J, BERGER 1,768,026

SEWING MACHINE Filed Feb. E, 1927 S-Sheets-Sheet 2 June 24, 1930. J. BERGER SEWING MACHIN filed Feb .'8, 1927 5 Sheena-Smet 5 June 24, 19730. J BERGER 1,768,026

SEWING MACHINE Filed Feb. 8, 1927 5 sheets-sheet 4 JI 2;Q1 7A k I /tf l., (y M f I l y SEWING MACHINE W24. Ja."

ff- M- F' -fclgafj.

l l 69% 'l' J6 aen,

Patented June 24, 1930 UNITED STATES JOSEPH BERGER, OF UTICA, NEW YORK,

Assieme. TQ UNION SPECIAL Mesurer COMPANY, or eHICAGo, ILLINOIS, vA CQRPQIQATIQN or` II,.I.IN,oI :s *.,l j

sIxvvINe MACHINE Application filed February 8, 1927. Serial No. 166,704.

rllhe invention relates to new and useful improvements in sewingy machines, and more particularly to a sewing machine for lapping fabric sections and joining, the same by covf ering stitches. n

An object of. the invention is to provide a sewing machine of the above type wherein the means for trimming,v lapping, joining and covering the edge portionsof the fabric lgjsections, except for theA footV and the work support, are all disposed above the plane oft the fabric sections asunited.

Another object of the invention is to provide a machine ofthe above type wherein 15 the trimming blades are so disposed relative to a guiding channel in the presser foot which receives the upturned edge portions of the fabric sections, that said edge portions at the trimming point are so disposed relaf 2o tive to each other as to aid in the turning down ofv the under section'beneath the upper section.

A further object of the inventionisfto provide a machine of the above type wherein the trimming mechanism includes a stationary blade mounted on a portion of: the

presser foot which is rigidly fixed to thepresser bar, and wherein the. presser foot has a yielding section directly beneath the.

3o movable blade of the trimming mechanism.

A still further objectv of the invention is to provide a machine of the above type wherein the portion of kthe presser foot which is iiXed to the presser barrisprovided with a laterally projecting member which operates upon the underlapping portion ofVV the.

fabric sectionsto positivelyl turn the same down, and wherein said presser foot is4 prof vided with a laterally projecting member carried by the yielding section of the presser foot which operates upon the uppermost of the lapped sections for turning the same down on tothe fabricr sections.

A still further object ofy the. invention is 45y to provide a presser foot for sewing maf chin'es of the above type, which presser foot is provided with a needlek opening and a guiding channel extending from the front end of the foot tok a point inv frontv of the eo opening for the needlessaid presser foot having a stationary trimming blade mounted thereon, with its trimming edge in substantial alinement with one wall of the guiding channel, said portion of the presser foot being rigid. with the presser bar, said presser` foot also having a yielding section o n the other side of the guiding channel form.- i

ing the other wall of said guidingchannel, said presser foot also having` a. laterally projecting member on the section rigid with the presser bar directly in rear of the trimming blades and a laterally projecting member on the yielding sectiondirectly in` rear` of said rstnamed projecting. member, whereby the edge portions of`v the fabricV sec,- tions maybe directed throughsaid guiding channel, trimmed, and the trimmed edgel portions turned downy into overlapped rela? tion to each other prior to thejoining and covering of said; edge portions.

These` and other objects willin. part be obvious and will in part bel hereinaftermore fully disclosed.

In the drawingsvr which show by. way. of illustration one embodimentl ofy the, invenvtion-l Figure 1 is a view partlyy in. section, and.

partlyin front elevation, showing the overhanging.I portion ofi the frame, the end, of,

the work support beneath theV same, and.

improved mechanismA for trimming, lapping, joining andk covering .the .edge portions Aofthe fabric sections 5. f

Fig. 2y isa fvlewshowingthe presser foot f Fig. 8 is. a similar. view, the sectionbeing bottom plan view of the presser vrs taken a little further backy on the presser foot, and showing the under section as partly turned down; y

Fig. 9 is a view similar to Fig. 8, the section being taken still further back. on the presser foot, and showing the fabric'sections as turned down into lapped relation to each f other and substantially into position-for joining;

Fig. l0 is a plan view showing more or'less `diagrammatically the Vupper face of the joined fabric sections;

Fig. ll is a plain view of the throat plate and feed dog sections; also showing in broken lines the plane of the presser foot;

l2 is a diagrammatic view showing on a very much enlarged scale, and in perspective, the fabric sections as rthey are trimmed, overlapped, joined and covered by vthe threads of the stitching mechanism;

Fig. 13 is a front view-of the presser foot and the parts associated therewith, showing the guiding slot which receives theA upturnedV is a section on the line l5, l5 of carries the stitch lingers, and one section of` the fabric under the main yielding section of the foot.

The invention is directed broadly to a sewing machine for trimming, overlapping, joining and covering' the edge portions of fabric sections, and more particularly the edge portionsof lrnitifabric sections. The machine kincludes a stitch forming meel anism having a plurality of needles, preferably three,'and a single looper which cooperates with Vall three needles, andf-also a cross thread laying mechanism which lays portion of the a cross ythread in loop form at each stitchV for the needles to secure to the fabric section on the upper face thereof for covering the rawedge of the upper lapped section. The machine also includes a work support for the fabric sections having a throat plate provided with the usual feed slots, and the throat plate is smooth on its upper face, that is, it is without any raised guiding or lifting projections for the fabric sections. rlhe feeding mechanism includes a main feed dog and an auxiliary feed dog when operating upon lrnit goods. These parts are all of` the usual construction. Y

rllhe material is held on the work support is a section on the

line

14,14 of by apresser foot carried by a presser bar, and the presser foot is provided with an opening for the needles and with a guiding channel extending from the front end thereof to a point in front of the needles. The section of the presser foot on the left of the channel as viewed from the front of the foot is rigid with the presser bar, while the section on the right of the channel is yieldingly mounted, preferably on themain section. The left-hand rigid section of the presser foot carries a stationary trimming blade. A movable trimming blade cooperating therewith is mounted on a bracket carried by a yoke which in turn is mounted on the presser bar in such' a waythat the movable blade and stationary blade 'have'a unit mounting on the presser bar, and will move up and down with eachother as theV thickness of the fabric varies under the rigid section of the foot. The stationarytrimming blade is disposed sothat its cutting edge is substantially in line4 with the left-hand wall' of the guiding channel,-'and this cutting edge of the trimming blade is also in a line just inside of the left-hand needle, when three needles are used. The right-hand wall of the guiding channel is locatedin a line at the right of the right-hand needle. rlFhe fabric sections no matter where they may loe led into-.the guiding channel, are carried over to the stationary trimming blade for trimming by the movable Atrimming blade, and as a result, the raisedA edge'portionfof the fabric section at the left is substantially y vertical when trimmed, while the raised edge portion of the fabric section at the right eX- tends in an inclined direction from the righthand wall of the guiding channel to the Y edge of the stationary ltrimming blade. This positioning of the right-handv section gives a clearance space beneath the same to permit the free turning down of the left-hand edge portion. The presser foot is provided with a laterally projecting portion extending into the guiding channel which is` mounted on the fixed section directly in rear of the trimming blades, and this projecting portion positively turns down the edge portion of the Y left-hand fabric section. .The yielding section is provided with a laterally projecting portion, which is located-in rear of the first-- named projection, and this operates topositively turn down the uppermost section onY top of the lowermost section. By mounting this projection which operates upon the topmost section on the yielding section', it will move toward and from the projection on the fixed section, and thus give ample space between the projections for any increased thicknesses of material underneath the righthand'section of the foot. i j Referring more in detail to the drawings, my improved machine consists of a supporting bracket l having a horizontal member at its upper end, in which is mountedy the main shaft 2. Projecting from oneV end of this horizontal member carrying the main shaft, is an overhanging arm 3 in which is mounted a needle bar 4. The needle bar is reciprocated by means of a lever 5 which is connected to the needle barby a link 6. The lever 5 is in turn oscillated by a link 7 connected with a crank 8 on the main shaft 2. The needle bar is provided with three

needles

9, 10 and 11 as shown in the present embodiment of the invention. Cooperating with these needles beneath the work support, is a single looper 12 of the thread carrying type. Associated with the needles is a cross thread carrying member 13 and a hook 1li. Both of these members are movable and they cooperate in forming aloop 'in a cross thread and positioning said loop so that the left-hand needle 9 will enter the loop, while the other two

needles

10 and 11, step over the cross thread, so to speak. This makes a cover stitch forming mechanism, wherein there are three lines of needle thread loops, a looper thread joiningthe same beneath the fabric sections, and a cross thread joining the same above the fabric sections. This cover stitch forming mechanism forms no part of the present invention, except'in combination with other devices.

The upper portion of the supporting bracket 1 is laterally deflected sov that the horizontal member carrying the main. shaft can support a-@depending member at its opposite end from the projecting member which carries the needle bar. At the lower end of this dependingv rmember, there is a work supporting arm 15. rlhis work supally from the depending member to a point beneath the needles, and the looper 12 is in the free end of this work supporting arm. Also located in this worlr supporting arm is a feeding mechanism which includes a main feed dog 16 andan auxiliary feed dog 17. The main feed dog is provided with vfeeding sections extending through the slots v18, 18 of the throat plate V19, while `the auxiliary feed dog 17 is provided with feeding sections extending through the slots 20, 2O in the throat plate.- The outside slots in the throat plate are common to both feed dogs. The throat plate is provided with an opening 21 for'the needles and with stitch fingers 22 located: between the needles. The throat plate is without any `raised projections for guiding or manipulating the fabric sections which are to be joined. The machine is'particularly adapted for stitching garments having tubular portions, and these tubular portions arev formed around the work supporting arm and are fed off from the end -thereof as they are joined.

As a means forholding .the material on orting arm is suspended and projects later-` the work support, I have provided a presser foot 23. This presser foot 23 consists of a main section 24 carried by a shank which is rigidly attached to the presser bar 25. The f presser foot includes an auxiliary foot section 26 which is yieldingly mounted on the main section and held depressed on to the material by means of a spring 27. rfhe'two sections are spaced from each other so as to forma guiding channel 28 for the upturned edge portions of the fabric sections which are to be united. Mounted on the main section ofthe presser foot is a stationary trimming blade 29. Said stationary trimming blade extends underneath a bridge portion 30 and is rigidly clamped to the main section of the foot by a set screw 31. Cooper-V ating with this stationary trimming blade 29 is a movable cutting blade 32. The movable cutting blade 32 is mounted in a bracket 33 which is fixed to the lower end bf av yoke mounted on the presser bar. rlhis particular type of trimming mechanism with its blades arranged horizontally, with the stationary member on the portion of the presser foot which is fixed to the presser bar', and the movable member mounted on a ybracket carried by a yolre which is also mounted on the presser bar, so that the trimming mechanism moves up and downy with the presser. bar as a unit, and maintains a. proper shear-y ing relation forthe trimming blades, forms no part of the present invention, except as to its arrangement, and in combination with other novel devices.

rlhe cutting edge of the stationary trim. ming blade is substantially in line with the left-hand wall 28 of the guiding channel 2.8. lt is also in a line slightly inside of the path of the left-hand needle 9 as clearly shown in Figures 7 and 8 of the drawings, where the paths of :the needles are indicated by the

broken lines

9', 10 and 11, respectively.l The right-hand wall 28 of the guiding channel is located on a line disposed at some distance to the right of the needle 11 and its path of reciprocation 11. i f Y The fabric sections to be united are indicated at F and F. The edge portions f and f', respectively, of the fabric sections, are upturned and directed into the guiding channel 28. No mattei' where the vedge. sections may enter the channel, they are forced over against the stationary blade by thereciprocations of the movable blade of the trimming mechanism,and therefore, the edge sections are brought into the position shownk in Fig. 7, ready for trimming. Itwill be noted from this Figure, that the fabric section F has its portion to be trimmed arranged substantially in a vertical plane. The edge portion f of the fabric section ll" is, however, inclined. This section will be held by the auxiliary-section 26 of the presser foot clamped against thethroat plate 19, and

lll() the movable trimming blade carrying the upturned portion thereof against the stationary blade will draw it into this inclined position shown in Fig. 7. It will be noted that when the right-hand section of the fabric is positioned across the guiding channel in this inclined manner, there is a free space beneath the saine, into which the edge portion may be ymoved in the turning down of said edge portion f to horizontal position.

By having the wall 28 of the channel disposed at a distance slightly to the right' of the needle 11, the inclined portion f is thus better placed for the free turning down of the edge portion f. The guilding channel in front of the trimming blades is free from any lateral projections, and as above noted, the ,throat plate isvffree from any guiding ribs or raised portions to aid in the positionlng of the edge portions ofthe vfabric sections for easy overlapping of the same. This permits a very free feed of the material to the trimming devices, and the arrangement of the trimming devices, and the guiding channel relative to the stitch forming mechanism Vaccomplishes the proper positioning of the fabric sections for the easy turning of the same into lapped relation with each other.

Directly in rear of the stationary trimming blade, the main section 24 ofthe presser foot is provided with a lateral projection 34. This lateral projection 34 extends out from the upper part of the foot, that is, from a point above the bottom of the foot and is curved downwardly so that as the edge portion f of the fabric section F leaves the trimming blades, this projecting member 34 will force the edge portion f down into horizontal position as clearly shown in Figures 8 and 9.

Projecting laterally from the auxiliary portion 26 of the presser foot is a projecting member 35. Said projecting member extends from the top portion of the auxiliary section and is gradually curved downwardly as shown in the drawings. This projecting portion 35 is in rear of the projecting portion 34, slightly overhanging the same at the receiving end thereof. The purpose of this projecting portion 35 is to engage and positively turn down lthe edge f on to the. edge l ,portion Inasmuch as this projecting portion 35 is carried by the yielding auxiliary section 26 of the presser foot, if two layers of fabric should enter beneath the auxiliary section, it will raise said auxiliary section slightly relative to the main section 24, and this will give ample space between the overlapping portions of the

projections

34 and 35 for a double thickness of material in the edge portion f thereof. The projection 35 closes the rear end of the guiding channel so that said channel terminates in front of the opening' for the needles..

The projecting portion 35 is provided withy stitch lingers 36 and 37 whiohextend into the opening for and between the needles. The projecting portion 35 as shown in the drawings, is made separate from the auxiliary foot section 26 and is secured to the upper face thereof by a screw 38. As shown in the drawings, the bridge portion 30 -is also made separate from the main section 'of the foot, and is secured thereto by screws 39.

10 is indicated at a, and the needle thread of the needle 11 is indicated at n". The cross thread is indicated at c. As clearly shown in Fig. 10, the cross thread is formed into a loop c by the cooperation of the member 13 which carries the cross thread and the hook 14. This loop in the cross thread is so positioned vrelative to the needles, that the needle 9 enters the loo', while the

needles

10 and 11 pass into tie fabric in front of the cross thread forming the loop c. Thus it is that the loop in the cross thread is held in an open position so that the strands of these cross thread loops better cover the raw edge of the upper lapped section of the fabric. Y

ln Fig. 11, l have shown not only the throat plate, but the sections of the feed dogs operating in the slots of the lthroat plate. l have also shownin this ligure, in brolren lines, the plane of the presser foot, for the purpose of showing the relation of the projection member and the yielding section of the foot which carries the stitch fingers. The bottom portion of'this section is indicated at 35a in the drawings. This is triangular in shape, in View of the ycurved portion at the forward end of the projection lwhich directs the uppermost section of the tom of the yielding section, a slight addi-v tional room is given for the overlapped portions. It is essential that the yielding section shall clamp the fabric section on which it bears, and hold the same at all times during the stitch cycle. When the feed dog is down, then the yielding section holds the fabric against the throat plate, and when the feed dog'risesfrom the throat plate, theV yielding section holds the fabric against the feed dog. This section carrying the stitch fingers, is, of course, rigid with the yielding section of the foot, but it is relatively small, and will compress the fabric underneath the same, or become embedded therein sufficiently ,to permit the yielding section to come The needle thread of the needle 9 is indil cated at a. The'needle thread of the needle down on to the fabric portion beneath the same. This takes place, Whenthere; is the same thickness of fabric under the maink section of the foot as under the auxiliary sectionA of the foot, and also When there is a greater` thickness of fabric under the main section of the foot than under the yielding section of the foot, as shown in Fig. 17. rlhis portion 85 is directly in rear of the central sections of the auxiliary feed dog 17, and said feed dogs will crowd 'the fabric underneathl said lportion 35a. yThis portion 35a extends across-the fronty side or end of the openingin the presser foot for the needles, or nearly so, and thus insures that the overlapped portion of he fabricwvill be held doyvn smoothly onthe underneathsec.- tion as the sections pass to the needles. The yielding section 26 yof the presser foot is mounted so as to yield vertically relativeto the main section inthe usual manner. yIt may take a position soy that the bottom of the yielding section is beneath the plane of the bottom of the main section, as shown in Fig. 17, or it may taire a position so that the plane of the bottom of the yielding section is above the plane of the bottom of the main section, as shovvn, in Fig. v16. Thus it is that the fabric sections, even though they vary in thickness from one sideA to the `other ofthe seam, Will always be held against the Work support or feed dog'sections as they` pass` along the slot or channel in the presser foot, and are led to the trimming mechanism. After theV overlapped sections are joined by the stitching mechanism,.th'e flat seam thus formed'is led-into the guiding channel 39a (see Fig. 15).v The foot portion is Vslotted* in Vrear of the opening for the needles, and a shiftable section l0 is vlocated therein. This shiftable section may be adjusted vertically by suitable means so as to regulate the size of the recess or channel receiving the finished seamevd portion of the garment. The channel or recess extends to the rear of the foot, and therefore, the increased thiclniess in the garment caused by the lapping of the sections and the stitching threads does not unduly raise vthe main section vof the foot so as toV release the fabric sections held by the main section-of the foot alongside of the leading-in channel.

From the above itvvill be apparent that I have provided machine wherein the upturned edgeportionsof fabric sections to be joined are directed into a guiding channel in the presser foot,and regardless of Whether .these upturned sections are centered in the channel or not, they vvill be carriedinto proper position in the channel by the movable trimming blade, so that said trimmed edge portionsare disposed in relation to each other so as to permit'of a free turning down of one section beneath the other, Withont vuse et any ribs .er guides et anytime -acter on the throat rplate of the machine.

portions are positioned and trimmed by 'thev trimmingblades, then the section which is to be turned underneath is positively turned down into its horizontal'position, and the edge portion .which is to be placed thereon, is subsequently positively -laid dovvn on to the underneath section.

The :fabric sections are positively turned down through the cooperation of the Walls of the channehtheV projecting portions carried by the presserfoot, and extending into the channel, and the trimming blades; the stationary blade determining the positioning ofv the edges When they are trimmed, and the movableblade bringingtheseCtiOn of fabric adjacent said movable blade over against the stationary blade. The presser foot is "provided lvvith a yielding section, which greatly aidsr in the stitching of garments Where-in the number of layers on one side .of the seam may, vary relative to the number ofl layers on the other side of the seam. As the yielding section of the foot moves to accommodate the increased thickness underneath it, it will also operate to position the turning, down memberV carried thereby, so as to give a free space for the increased thickness, and thereby permit the free feeding of the fabric With a positive placing of the fabric sections in overlapped relation to each other. It is understood, of course, thatrvvh'enthe fabric sections are turned down into overlapped relation, one-trimmed edge is just insidefof one roW of needle thread loops on onel face of the material, While the other trimmed Yedge is just inside of the other outside row of needle thread loops on the other= face of the material. The looper thread joining-the needle loops beneath the material, and the I cross thread joiningthe needle threads above the material, forni a covering stitch for the lapped edge portions of the fabric sections, and the center needle, when three needles are used, vvill pass through both of the lapped sections and aid in joining the same.

lt is obvious that minor changesin the details of construction and the arrangement ofthe parts may be made Without departing Vfrom the spirit of the invention as set forth' in the appended claims. Y -f Having thus described theinvention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent,isf 1. The'icombination of a plurality of needles, vhorizontally disposed trimming blades arranged in advance of said needles, a presserv foot having an opening for the needles and a guiding channel extending from Vthe front end of theV presser foot to a paint trent et theeiieea Sei-'fl sullll channelk being adapted to receive the upturned edge portions of fabric sections for directing the same to the trimming blades, said presser foot having means for turning the trimmed edge portions into overlapped turning down of the redge portion of the other fabric section. l

2. The combination of a plurality of needles, horizontally y disposed trimming blades arranged in advance of said needles, a presser foot having an opening for the needles and a guiding channel extending' from the front end of the presser Vfoot to a point in front of the opening, said guiding channel being adapted to receive the upturned edge portions of fabric sections for directing the same to the trimming blades, said presser foot having means for turning the trimmed edge'portions into overlapped relation to each other, one of said trimming blades being stationary and fixedrto the presser foot, with the trimming edge thereof in line with the adjacent wall of the guiding channel, Vso that the edge portion of the fabric section adjacent the stationary trimming blade, and which Vis folded underneath, is substantially vertical when trimmed, while the edge portion ofthe other fabric section lies in an inclined position from the bottom of the, presser foot to the line of trimming.V

3. The combination ofV a plurality of needles, horizontally disposed trimming blades arranged in advanceV of said needles, a presser foot having an opening for the needles, andv a guiding channel -extending from the front end of the presser foot to a point in front of the opening, said guiding channel beingvadapted :to receive the upturned edge portions of fabric sections for directing the same to the trimming blades, one of said trimming blades being stationary and secured to said presser foot so that its cutting edge is in line with the adjacent wall of the guiding channel, whereby the edge portion of the fabric section adjacent said stationary blade is substantially vertical when trimmed, while the edge portion of the other fabric section lies in al1-inclined position from the bottom of the presser foot at the other side of the guiding channel to the line 'of trimming, saidv presser foot having a laterally projecting' member extending into said. guidin g channel on the side of the channel adjacent the stationary blade and directly in rear thereof for turning down said vertically arranged edge portion beneath the inclined edge portion.

4. The combination of a plurality of needles, horizontally disposed trimming blades arranged in advance of said needles,

ka presser foot having an opening for the needles, and a guiding channel extending from the front end of the presser foot to a point in front ofthe opening, said guiding channel being adapted to receive the upturned edge portions of fabric sections for directing the same to the trimming blades, one of said trimming blades being stationary and secured to said .presser foot so thatits cutting edge is in line with the adjacent said vertically arranged edge portion beneath the inclined edge portion, said presser foot having a portion projecting laterally into the guiding channel from the other side thereof, and in rearv and above Vsaid firstnamed projection for turning down the inclined portion of the fabric section on to the underneath portion.

5. The combination -of a plurality of needles, horizontally disposed trimming blades arranged in advance of said needles, a presser foot having a main section and an auxiliary yielding section, said presser foot having an opening for the needles, and Said sections being spaced at the forward portions thereof to form a guiding channel terminating in front of the opening for the needles, one of saidtrimming blades being stationary and mounted on the main section of the presser foot, with its cuttingedge in line with the adjacent wall of the guiding channel, said main section yof, the presser foot having a laterally projecting downwardly curved member directly in rear of` the stationary blade for engaging and turning down the edge portion adjacent said stationary blade, and said yielding section of the presser foot having a portion projecting laterally therefrom in rear of and above the first-named projecting portion for engaging the other edge portion of the fabric section for turningA the same down on tothe underneath section.

6. The combination of a plurality of needles, Vhorizontally disposed trimmingl :massicce blades arranged inadvance'of said needles, a presser foot having a main section and an auxiliary yieldingsection, said presser yfoot having an opening for the needles, and said sections being spaced at the forward portions thereof to form a guiding channel terminating in front of the opening forthe needles, one ofvsaid trimming blades being stationary and mounted on the main section `of the presser foot, with itsv cutting edge in, line with the adjacent wall of the guiding channel, said mainv section of the presser foot having a laterally :projecting downwardly curved member directly inrear of the stationary blade for engaging and turning down lthe edge portion adjacent said stationary blade, and said yielding section of the presser foot having fa portion projecting laterally therefrom vin rear of and above the irst-namedprojecting portion for engaging the other edge portion of the fabric section for turning the same down on to the underneathv'secti'onj-k the wall of said guiding ychannel yadjacent the yielding section being located iii a line disposed` lat some distance away from the needle lopening whereby the edge portion of the fabric-` section `adj acent said yielding `section ,when in :trimmed position exftends in fan inclined direction across the guiding channel so that the `same is raised to facilitate theturning down of the other edge portion.

7. The combination of 'a `plurality of` needles, horizontally disposedk v trimming blades arranged in advance of said needles, a presser foot having a main Isection Aand an auxiliary yielding section, sai'dfpresser foot having an opening for the needles, and said sections being spaced at the forward 'portions thereof to `form a guiding channel terminatingv in front of thefo'pe'ning for the needles, one of said trimming blades ybeing stationary and moi'inted' on lthemain section of the presser foot, with its `'cutting edge in line with the adjacent wall ofthe guiding channel, said main `section ofthe `presser foot having a laterally projecting downwardly `curved member directly `in rear of thestationary blade 'for' engaging and turningdown the edge portion adjacent said stationary blade, and said v"yieldingsection of the presser foot -lia'viiig a vportion pro-f jecting laterally therefrom yin rear of 'and above the first-named y'projecting portion for 'engaging the other edge portion of the fabric section for turning the saine down son [to the underneath section, sa'id yieldin section of lthe, presser foot haying stitch ngers extending into the opening` for the needles located in rear of the projection 'carried thereby for turning down the fabric section.`

,8. A presser foot for Ysewing machines comprising a supporting shank, a main `section rigidly connectedlfto said "shank, a yielding section'supported 'by said shank,

said presser foot having an opening between its sections for the needles, the forward portions of said sections being spaced to form a guiding channel terminating in vfront of said'opening for the needles, a stationary trimming blade carried by the presser foot with the cutting edge thereof in v. line with one wall of the guiding channel,

a member projecting laterally into the guiding channel and disposed directly 'in rear of said stationary blade, and a member carried by said yielding presser foot sec-V tion and projecting into said guidingl channel in rear of and above said first-named projection.

9A presser foot for sewing machines comprising a supportingshank, a main section rigidly connected to said shank, a yielding section supported by said shank, said presser foot having an opening between f trimming blade carried by the presser foot-'eo with the cutting `edge thereof in line with one wall of the guiding channel, a member projecting laterally into the guiding channel and disposed'directly in rear of said stationary blade, a member carried by said yielding presser foot section and projecting into said guiding channel in rear of and 4above said-first-named projection, the wall of saidguiding channel adjacent said yielding section of the presser foot being dis- 'posed in a line'considerably at one side of the opening for the needles, Vand the other wall of said guiding ychannel being 'disposed in a line passing throughl the opening'for the needles. Y Y

V10. A presser foot lfor sewing machines comprising a supporting shank, a main section rigidi'ly connected to said shank, a yielding section supportedV by said shank, said presser foot having an opening tween its sections for the needles, the for-- ward portions of said 'sections being spaced to form a guiding channel terminating in yfront of said opening for the needles, a

stationary trimming 'blade carried 'by the presser foot with the cutting edge thereof in line with one wall ofthe guiding channel, a member projecting laterally into-the guiding channel and disposed directly in rear of said stationary blade, a member carriedv by said yielding presser `foot ksection and projecting into said guiding channel in rear of and above said first-named projection,

IYi

said yielding presser foot section 'being pro-v vided with a plurality of stitch fingers projecting into said opening for the needles.

11. The combination of a plurality of needles, horizontally disposed trimming blades arranged in advance of vsaid needles one of said 'trimming blades being Ystationioo j blade, said wall being provided for forcibly turning the trimmed edge por- .tion adjacent said wall underneath the ary and the other movable, a presser foot having an opening for the needles and a guiding channel extending 'from iront end of the presser toot to peint in iront oit the opening, said guiding channel being adapted to receive the upturned edge pertions of the fabric sections for directing them to the triinmino blades and for directing the same i'rom the trimming blades lto the needles, the walls or" said guiding channel being so disposed relative to the trimming blades that one is substantially in alignment with the stationary trimming blade, said wall being provided with lmeans for forcibly turning the trimmed Iadapted to receive the upturned edge portions of the fabric sections for directing them to the trimming blades and for directling the same from. the trimming blades to the needles, the walls of said guiding channel being so disposed relative to the trimming blades ythat one wall is substantially in alignment with the stationary trimming with means other edge portion for the lapping of the same, said presser foot having a yielding portion and a'solid portion, the yielding vportion forming one side of the channel and one side and a portion of the front of said needle opening.

18. The combination of a plurality of needles, a presser foot having a guiding channel extending from the front end of the presser foot toa point in front of an opening in the presser foot for the needles and receiving the upturned edge portions Vof fabric sections, a stationary trimming blade and having its cutting edge disposed at one side of the guiding channel and close to the wall thereof and a horizontally moving trimming blade cooperating therewith to trim said upturned edge portions, said presser foot having means operating in conjunction with said trimming blades, whereby the upturned edge portion of the fabric section adjacent the stationary trimming blade is turned down to horizontal position, and the other edge portion of the fabric sections turned down on top of the same prior to the stitching of the fabric sections.

14. A presser foot for sewing machines yportions of fabric sections.

15. A. presser foot for sewing machines comprising a supporting shank, a main section rigidly connected to said shank, a yielding vsection supported by said shank, said presser foot having an opening between its Vsections for the needles, said yielding section having a projecting portionextending in front ot the needles and provided with stitch fingers adapted to extend between the needles in a multiplev needle sewing inachine, the sections of said presser Vfoot in vfront of said projecting portion onV the yielding section being spacedA for receiving and directing the upturned edge portions of fabric sections, said i projecting portion carrying the stitched fingers beingV detachably connected to said yielding section of the foot.

16. A presser foot for sewing machines ,comprising a supporting shank, a main section rigidly connected to said shank, a yielding section supported by said shank, said presser foot having an opening between its sections for the needles, said yielding section having a projecting portion extending in front ot the needles and provided with stitch lingers adapted to extend between the needles in a multiple needle sewing machine, the sections of said presser foot in front of said projecting portion on the yielding section being spaced for receiving and directing the upturned edge portions of fabric sections, the under :tace of said projecting portion carrying the stitch lingers being set in a plane slightly higher Vthan the plane of the under face of the yielding section.

17. A presser foot for sewing machines comprising 'a supporting shank, a main section rigidly connected to said shank, a yielding section supported by said shank, said presser foot having an opening between its sections forV the needles, said yielding section having a projecting portion extending in front of the needles and provided with stitch fingers adapted to extend between the needles in a multiple needle sewing machine, the sections of said presser foot in front of said projecting portion on the yielding section being spaced for receiving and directing the upturned edofe portions of fabric sections, the under face of said projecting portion 'carrying the stitch lingers being set in a plane slightly higher than the plane of the under face of the yielding section, said yielding section being movable so that the plane of its under face is eitherl below 01' above the plane of the under face of the main section.

In testimony whereof, I affix my signature.

JOSEPH BERGER.