US1816626A - Upside down sewing machine - Google Patents

Description

July 28, 1931. J, P; was 1,816,626

UPSIDE DOWN SEWING.MACHINE Filed July 15, 1927 2 Sheets-Sheet l 58 34 LVVENTOR.

g2 65 6| 3 Joh Ph/ezs.

. AT NEY July 28, 1931. J., P WEIS 1,816,626

UPSIDE DOWN SEWING MACHINE Filed July 15, 1927 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 IN VEN TOR.

John F We 1'5.

' ATT NEY band and bottoms of knickerbocker bloomers Patented July 28, 1931 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE JOHN P. WEIS, OF NYACK, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR T0 METROPOLITAN SEWING MA- CHINE CORP., OF NYAOK, NEW YORK, A CORPORATION OF DELAWARE UPSIDE DOWN SEWING MACHINE Application filed July 15, 1927. Serial No. 205,869.

This invention relates to sewing machines, the object of the invention being to provide an improved convertible upside down sewing machine particularly adapted for hemming and'inserting circular elastics in the Waist and similar articles, although it ma be used for a variety of purposes, such as the arm holes and'neck openings and bottoms of bathing suits and underwear. It is also well adapted for various other purposes such as general stitching operations where the formation and character of the seams are of such a nature that they can be more readily madeby reversing the work as the seams are formed to have the folded edges always come on top in. plain View of the operator, rather than have such folded edges come underneath out of sight, whereby the seams and stitches can be more accurately made with greater speed of production and the work handled with greater facility.

In stitching articles where the chain stitch is objectionable on the right side of the garment, it is diflicult to arrange the machine for the convenient handling and guiding of the work to the stitching mechanism so thatthe chain stitches will appear on the wron 1nstead of the right side of the garment. T erefore, there has always been a demand for a chain stitch sewing machine that would reverse the usual conditions and make the chain stitch on top instead of on the bottom of the work. Various attempts have been made to provide a machine in which the needle will operate underneath the cloth plate while the looper and feed mechanism operates above the cloth plate. None of the machines of which I am aware, thathave attempted to do this however are applicable for general sewing operations, for they are more or less unhandy and cumbersome to work with, for the reason that the reversal of these mechanisms requires a total reconstruction of the essential emming I of redesigning or reconstructing the regular Metropolitan cylinder sewing machine this machine is particularly well adapted for re.- versal to have the loo er and feed and itsop+ crating mechanisms a ove the work, with the needle, presser foot and their operating mechanisms below the work. I The regular Metro politan cylinder sewing-machine is furnished with an automatic stop motion for stopping the needle in its uppermost position. In the present improvement this mechanism is omitted. The needle is positioned by turning the handwheel for the handling of the work. The removal of this stop motion mechanism from the machine does away with a great many parts and sim lifies the construction of the machine and ma esit more readily adapt-v ed to the character of workherein described.

When this machine is reversed, the bot-,

tom of the, presser foot becomes a substitute for the top surface of theusual throat plate or cloth plate or work rest of the usual sewlng machine, and as the needle threads must be protected from the work, while the presser and needle bars must likewise be guarded against in]ury to'the operator and damage to the materials being handled, some material guides are secured to it they also 0 erate up and down with the presser foot.

taching it to the machine frame so as to be resser foot has J the usual up and down yielding action toicov. operate with the feed, 1f the attachments or owever, a work rest cloth plate can be provided by. at-' 'changes in construction and-arrangement are essential. As the bottom of the presser foot stationary, and have the presser foot operate through an opening therein similiar to the way the usual feed operates up and down through the opening in a cloth or throat late.

In the present instance, however,'I emp oy a hemmer and guide attached directly to the bottom of the foot, which is carriedwith it.

In the present improvement it is necessary to provide an opening in the bottom wall of the machine frame trunk castingto receive the small reservoir and oil straining screen that is normallyv used at the top of the machine when the machine is right side up. The oil pump was removed from the reservoir in the trunk of the machine and the lead pipe conducting the oil from the pump to the top reservoir and strainer was also removed. A new back cover plate indicated by 97 is provided having integral therewith an oil reservoir 95, which fits up over the opening in which the top reservoir and screen is normally located when the machine is right side up. When the machine is upside-down, this opening is below all the working parts of the machine and by placing the oil reservoir 95 directly under this opening and having the joint between the reservoir and the sewing machine frame sealed with a gasket to prevent leakage, the oil may be circulated from the reservoir 95 by the pump up through a lead pipe to that portion of the machine attached to the angle bracket, delivering the oil to a reservoir where it passes through the strainer and then finds its way to all the working parts to properly lubricate them. In order to ac-' complishthis man of the internal oil leads had to be changed or instance, the oil grooves in the bearings are shifted from what was normally the top of the working parts to the bottom thereof, so that when the machine is upside down, these oil grooves will come on the top to properly feed the oil to the bearings. By having the cover plate 97 and the main reservoir cast together and carrying the oil pump as a unit, it is a simple matter to attach or detach this lubricating means to the regular machine, the only machine operation necessary being the making of an opening in the base of the machine trunk casting forthe small reservoir and strainer.

To conveniently and properly control the threads to the looper and needle, the thread handling mechanism is changed somewhat to facilitate threading and also protect 'the threads during the operation of the machine. Certain guards are provided and the thread leads arranged in an accessible manner for ease of threading with the machine in theupside down position; l

The means for operating the presser foot also required'some change in that the actuation of the presser foot when the machine is in its upside-down position is just the reverse 1 of its normal workin position. I make use of the arrangement 0 parts shown and represented by the elements 39 to 44 inclusive.

The chain 41, for instance attached to one end of the reverse lever 39 pulls down to *lift the presser foot when the machine is in the upside down position, whereas when it is used in its right side up position, this reverse lever is forced upward, at the end where the chain is attached by apush rod which also operated the starting and stopping mechanism of the regular machine.

The presser foot for use on an upside down machine is arranged to afford a means for supporting attachments,- guides, etc., and to be of sufficient size to, conveniently act as a work plate. The arrangement of the presser foot may vary according to the character of work the machine is intended to do. In each instance, however, it,is desirable to have a suitable opening. through this foot in front of the needle line in order that the operator may see through this opening to simplify the threading of the needle, for without such an opening, the eye of the needle cannot be seen without getting down and looking up underneath, which is very difficult and an awkward thing to do.

For some stitching operations a small ordinary size pressenfoot could be used in con- 'unction with a stationary work rest carried y some part of the machine frame casting, as for instance supported by the needle bar bearing. Such work rest could be provided with an opening through which .an ordinarv presser foot could operate in a similar mariner to which a feed dog operates through the openings of a throat,plate. Such arrangement would be desired for any kind of work that would be of considerable heft or bulk,

for the reason that there is a limit to the weight of a presser foot and its mechanism due to the speed at which these machines must operate. It is therefore desirable to always have the presser feet and the other moving parts connected therewith to be as light as possible consistent with the proper strength to stand the strain.

To properly support the machine upside down in such position that the working elevation or plane of the work will be identical with the usual plane of handling the work when the machine is operated right side up, I have provided a suitable angle bracket.

For th s purpose and to avoid the necessity of re-deslgnlng the machine frame, I make use of a Z shaped an le bracket. It will be understood that the s ape of the supporting bracket may be varied to suit different kinds and characters of work to arrive at the best and most convenient working position to facihtate the handling of the work.

Among the advantages of this improved upslde downmachine is first of all an important economic one, since there is very little change if any required in the tooling equipment for the manufacture of the machine, the spec al parts required being reduced to a min mum since the same machine is 0011- vertible for stitching right side up or bottom s1de up by changing a few parts. With the 1 machine upside down for some work there up to the needle, which is not the case when the machine is used right side up. Another advantage is that the machine when used upside down, virtually becomes a post machine. The position of the arm in which the needle bar and presser bar operate form a post and provide considerable space and clearance for the work, thus enabling the handling of either bulky work or on the other hand, stitching around very small tubular articles. Moreover, the suspension from the work table of the machine provides a clear drop for the work all around the stitching mechanism, which facilitates the handling of the goods and enables a larger production. The cylinder type of machine is particularly Well adapted for operation in the upside down position, because the cylinder bed does not obstruct the view of the operator as the stitching proceeds. Moreover, it provides clear space and adds to the freedom of handling the work and an inspection of the work as the seams are completed.

One of the objects also present of the invention is the provision of an improved means for securing an elastic strip in the hem of a garment betweenthe folded portion of the hem and the body of the garmentor work so as to permit its ready removal without the necessity of forming a buttonhole for this purpose. v

A further object is the provision of means for diverting the folded or hemmed edge of a garment thereby to form an unstitched portion or pocket to permit the ready withdrawal and'insertion of an elastic strip.

In the drawings Fig. l is a perspective View of the machine in its working position supported by the angle supporting bracket on the work table, the electric motor drive for operating the machine being also shown; Fig. 2 is an enlarged detail top view of the looper operating parts, thread take-up, presser foot, hem folder guide and edge controlling mechanism for shifting the hem'of the work, looking in the direction of the arrow, Fig. 1; Fig. 3 is a side View showing the machine in its operating position with the angle supporting bracket secured to the work table, and illustrates the casing for the oil pump and reservoir and the treadles for operating'the transmitter and sewing machine, also the foot treadle for shifting the presser foot; Fig. 4 is a detail view of the presser foot with the parts attached thereto in section; Fig. 5 is a perspective detail view of the hem formation and the inserting of the elastic, and the means for d1- verting the edge out of the path of'the needle; Fig. 6 is'a view representing the hem of a garment with a circular endless 81381710 strip stitched therein; Fig. 7 is a detail View of a piece of goods hemmed with the elastic inserted under the fold of the hem; Fig. 8

is a detail View of the circular elastic with its ends joined before it is placed in position so that thegoods can be folded over the same. Similar characters of reference indicate corresponding parts in the several views.

Before explaining in detail the present improvement and mode of operation thereof,

I desire to have it understood that the invention is not limited to the details of construction and arrangement of parts which are illustrated in the accompanying drawings, since the invention is capable of other embodiments, and that the phraseology which I employ is for the purpose of description and not of limitation.

The work table or bench has secured to its under side an electric motor 2, or any well-known form of power clutchtransmitter, so that pressure on the foot treadle 3, secured to the-floor as at 4, will cause movement of the rod 5, or chain 6, seeFig. 1, connected with the starting lever 7 of the electric motor to operate the clutch 8 and drive the belt 9 when required. A detailed description of the power transmitter is unnecessary, since 'no claim is made thereto, as any of the power clutches now in use may be employed.

Attached to the top of the table is an angle bracket 10 of any suitable form to support the sewing machine. In the present instance, however, the top portion 11, to which the base 12 of the sewing machine is attached by screws 13, is provided with a rectangular I opening 14 for the purpose of access to the lubricatin system of the machine, and through t is opening may be reached the strainer or filter and the top reservoir, which distributes the oil to the various working parts of the machine. A detailed description of the lubricating system is deemed unnecessary, since it forms no part of the claims of this invention and is clearly shown in my patents for cylinder sewing machines. At-

' tached to the angle bracket is a thread stand rotl 15, carrying a supply ofthread 16., The threads lead directly to tubes 17 carried by the sewing machine. One tube carries the looper thread and the other tube carries the needle thread. A suitable opening is provided in the wall of the angle bracket, for

the passage of these tubes.

The sewing machine comprises a base 12,

having a trunk 18, in which the major work ing parts operate, and a cylinder 19 secured in the boss 20 of the trunk 18. The cylinder carries a looper shaft, feed her and their usual' operating parts. Carried by the cylinder is the throat plate 21. Projecting from the trunk 18 is an arm 22 and this arm carlies a rock shaft 23 for operating the usual III] v presser foot.

guard 28, see Figs. 1 and 3, of suitable form to cover up the working arts and protect the operator from injury. hen the machine is operating in the usual upright or normal position, the presser bar and needle bar oper ating parts are usually ex osed, they not being covered by a guard. ut it becomes very important to cover up these parts when the machine is operated upside down, not only to protect the operator, but also to prevent the goods from catching on to the moving parts and also prevent the oil from damaging the goods. A swinging guard 29 having side walls 30 and 31, guards the needle and needle bar in its movement. This guard is made so:

as to swing out'of position for convenience in threading the needle and may be attached to the presser bar 32 in a suitable way so'thatit may be operated conveniently and atthe same time give proper protection. Attached to the presser bar 32 is the shank 33 of a presser foot 34, which may be rigidly connected to the This presser foot is large enough to cover the entire feeding surface of the feed and also to carry attachments, hemmers, guides, etc.

Since the needle is below the presser foot, I have found it desirable to provide the presser foot with a. suitable opening 35, through which the operator can get a clear view of the needle eye, so that the needle may be threaded as readily as ifit were above-this foot. By

looking down through this opening, 35, the eye of the needle is in view and by swinging out the guard 29, the needle threading becomes av very simple matter,,whereas without this opening the operator would have to i stoop down and look up underneath in order to see the needle eye to thread the needle. Therefore, it'will be understood that this opening in the presser foot for the purpose of threading the needle, is of considerable importance for without it, the threading of the needle would be quite difiicult. The presser foot has its forward end bent downward as at 36, (seeFigs. 1 and 3) forming an incline over which the work may travel.

The presser foot is held against the feed by-the usual spring 37, and a lever 38 pivoted to the machine arm as at enables the presser foot to be shifted to and from the throat plate and feed. A reverse lever 39 is pivoted at 40 and has a chain 41 attached 'to its rear end which isconnected to a foot .end- 49 projects close up to the stitching posithe needle.

The hem folder shown comprises an arm 50 attached to the bracket 47 and to the scroll portion 51, which has a base plate 52 extending out from a port-ion of the opening 35 of the presser foot. This scroll portion 51 is attached to and forms part of the guide 49 as indicated at 53. This portion of the hemmer is positioned-directly in front of .the front edge of the-throat plate and in line with the needle so as to control the margin of stitchin relative to the folded edge of the, hem. arried by the arm 50 of the hem folder is a swinging portion of the hemmer indicated at 54. This swinging part is arranged to swing out when the stitched hem feeds aroundin a circle to its starting point of the work as it approaches the horn 55 of the folder. The goods are wrapped around this horn as the hem is being made and the circular band of elastic is guided directly underneath this horn so-that the fold of the hem of the goods is merely led overthe band of elastic and notv folded around it to encase the elastic within the inner fold of the hem, that is to say, the goods are merely led over the elastic as shown'in Figs. 5 and 7. The hefn folder has a pivoted swing support 56, which may be of any suitable construction, as for instance, a stud screw and a spiral spring having one end attached tothe arm 50 and the other end attached to the stud screw, a suitable adjustable thimble overhanging the stud screw so that the tension on the spring may be regulated. There are many ways in which the swing out portion of the folder may be mounted for convenient operation to permit the removal. of the hem from the folder after it is finished.

At the forward end of the presser foot is attached a spring 57, the other end of which is attached to a lever 58, shiftable by hand on its pivotalstud screw 59, tapped into the presser foot at the rear end. The presser foot is provided with a stop pin 60, projecting up through a slot 61 in the lever 58, which limits the movement 'of the lever. Attached to the lever and also provided with a slot is an ad.- justing piece 62, secured by a screw 63 tapped into theleve'r 58. This piece has secured to it by a screw 64, a wire edge controller having a loop 65 surrounding the screw and adjustable relatively thereto. "This wire reaches over and is formed with a bent up portion 66, (see Fig. 4) having a downwardly projecting end 67, to engage the folded edge 68 of the hemmed goods and divert it or all it-out of the path of the needle when esired,-as is clearly illustratedin Fig. 5 by dotted and full line positions. The purpose of this diverter is to shift the hemmed edge ofthe goods out of the path of the needle so as to leave an unstitched portion for the with- "tiontothe right of and directly opposite drawal from and insertion of the elastic into the hem and so provide for the quick and easy renewalof the elastic. The completed hem, representing a rayon or silk bloomer or the like, is shown in Fig. 6, in which the body portion of the garment is indicated at 69 and the hem at 70, While the folded over edge which is stitched down is indicated at 68, and the unstitched diverted open hem portion is represented by 71. The hemmed under raw edge 72, lies over and upon the elastic strip 73. This is an im ortant difference from the usual hemming, w ere elastics are inserted in the hem or pocket, for the elastic usually is laid in on top of the folded edge portion 72. I find it important to avoid this whenever it is desired to have the hem constructed so as to permit the readyrenewal of the elastic strip,

for when the elastic is placed as shown, it is always exposed through the opening 71 and can be readily withdrawn whereas if the elasticwere placed between the folded portion 72, and the top portion of the hem 7 4, it would be diflicult to unfold the raw edge,'which is inside the hem in order to get at the elastic strip for its removal. The chain stitch portion of the hem is indicated by 75 on the inside of the garment, while the needle thread portion of the stitch is indicated at 76 at the outside of the garment. The elastic strip is joined to-' gether by zig-zag or hand stitching at 77, see

Fig. 8. p I The formation of the chain stitch may comprise one or two threads. I have showna thread carrying looper for making the two threadchain stitch, although a looper can be attached to make the single thread stitch.

The looper is indicated at 78 and is attached to the usual looper carrier 79, which is secured by a collar 80 to the looper shaft 81. A looper thread take up 82 and looper thread take-up guide 83 are provided for controllin .the looper thread. Theconduct and ban ling of the looper and needle threads is identical with that shown in the Metropolitan sewing machine above referred to and therefore needs no further descri tion.

T e feed prongs 84 of the feed dog, see Fig. 2 are carried by the usual feed bar and project through the openings in the throat plate, the forward portion 85 of which is provided with an elongated slot 86, through which projects the end 67 of the diverter so as to come directly in contact with the fold ed edge of the hem. The bent up portion 66 of the diverter permits the presser foot to be shifted or moved downward for placing and removing the work from between the presser foot and throat late. The diverter' is flexible enough to yie (1 when it comes in contact with the portion 87 of the throat plate so as to provide ample clearance between the end 67 and the surface of the presser foot for the removal of the work.

I To guard and cover up the looper mechav nism I provide the usual end cap 88, see Fig. 3. The belt 9 o erated by the transmitter operatesthe com ined hand and belt wheel 89, for operating the sewing machine. It will be observed that this belt wheel 89 and the power-driven mechanism extend from adjacent to the inner end of the underhung arm and substantially at right angles thereto. A belt guard 90, see Fig. 1 is attached to the angle bracket as at 91 to protect the operator. The belt wheel 92 over which the belt 9 rides is carried by the shaft 93 of the oil pump. This oil pump is contained in the casing 94, which is provided with a reservoir 95 and an oil gauge 96, see Fig. 3. The oil pump reservoir and back cover 97 comprise a unit readily attached and detached to convert a standard machine for upside down use.

The rectangular opening 14 in the angle.

bracket affords means for introducing the oil l into the machine and also provides space for the usual oil gauge, which indicates when the lubricating mechanism is operating properly.

For hemming and inserting elastics in the hem, the operation of the machine is as fol lows:

The operator presses downward on the foot treadle 42 and operates the levers 39 and 38 to lower the presser foot, leaving space between it and the working surface of the throat plate and feed. The goods and the elastic loop are then passed into the hem folder 46, so as to fold the raw edge of thegoods, up, over, and under. When the initial fold in the goods has been made and drawn into stitching position the pressure on the foot treadle is released and the work is clamped between the presser foot, throat plate and feed surfaces. The treadle 3 is then depressed, giving movement to the rod.5 and the clutch lever 7 so as to put the transmitter in operation, which gives movement to the belt 9 and the hand wheel 89, thereby starting the stitching and feeding operations. The hemmed ortion of the garment'is stitched and the e astic loop is'tensioned and guided into the folder by hand, or in some instances it may be tensioned by a small tension carried in front of the folder to stretch and narrow the elastic as the stitching proceeds. to be noted, however, that in hemming and inserting circular elastics, it is not essential to It 'is always stretch the elastic, for the reason that I the elastic loop is made to a predetermined size with respect to the garment into which it is to be stitched before the stitching operation as it is guided into position at the time the hem is formed. The stitching may proceed until it is desired to divert the edge to make the opening 71, when the lever 58 is shifted to divert the hemmed edge out of the path of the needle while a few stitches are made, and then the lever is released and the parts returned to their initial position and the stitching proceeds until the starting oint arrives close to the horn 55 of the fol er, at which time the swinging portion 54 of the folder is swung to the dotted line position Fig. 2, so that the ending up of the stitching operation overlaps the beginning of the stitching of the hem for about inch or more, then the presser foot is again shifted and the work removed. To facilitate this, the tensions may be released so that the threads will draw through the tensions freely.

The hemming of garments and providing an endless loop of elastic for the hemmed portion has been common practice for a long time, either by free hand guiding or by the use of some form of a guide or hem folder.

The renewal of worn out elastics by introduc-' ing them into the'hemmed portion of the garments with a small instrument, such as a tape needle, hair pin, or safety pin, is also well- Known and commonly used. To facilitate the renewal of elastics some of the hems of the garments have been provided with a button hole. The button hole must be made in the hemmed portion of the garment before the hem is formed. It is a diflicult matter to always locate the button hole with respect to the raw edge of the hem so that when the hem is formed it will always come in the correct position on the inside portion of the hemmed fold of the garment, for if a little too much goods is folded into the hem, the stitches securing the hem may cross through the center of the button hole.- On the other hand, if not enough goods is turned in the button hole may come on the top edge of the garment. For these reasons the button hole has been unsatisfactory. Moreover, it requires a button hole machine and a separate operation of taking the garments to and from the button hole machine for the making of the button hole. With the present improvement for diverting the edge out of the path of the stitches, leaving the opening 71, the expense of making the button hole is eliminated, the opening comes always at a definite position relative to the formation of the hem and leaves an opening of sufficient size for ready access to the elastic for its renewal. The shifting of the diverter takes place while the machine is in operation and therefore it does not in any way retard production. The garment is completely finished on the one machine so far: as the hemming and elastic inserting are concerned, which offers considerable advantage to the manufacturer with the added advantage to the wearer of the garment when it be comes necessary to renewthe elastic.

I believe that I am the first to'provide a diverter for diverting the hemmed edge of an elastic hem to avoid the use of a button hole and thereby provide a better means by which the elastics of hemmed garments can be renewed. This important feature, together with the added advantage of folding the raw edge over the top of the elastic rather than around the elastic is of advantage to the manufacturer of the garments for it effects a substantial saving. On the other hand, it is an advantage to the wearer of the garment, for it simplifies the task of renewing the elastics when necessary.

While I have provided a special form of hemmer for conveniently hemming the work \vron side up and diverting the edge of the hem rom the stitch line directly in view of the operator, the invention is not limited thereto, for it will be readily understood that the diverter can be eliminated especially on some kinds of work and the opening 71 can be provided by starting the stitching at one side of the opening shown and ending it at the other side, leaving an open unstitched space of sufficient size to permit access to the elastic in the hem.

It is to be understood that by describing in detail herein any particular form, structure or arrangement, it is not intended to limit the invention beyond the terms of the several claims or the requirements of the prior art.

Having thus explained the nature of my said invention and described a way of con structing and using the same, although without attempting to set forth all of the forms in which it may be made, or all of the modes of its use, I claim:

1. A sewing machine having a trunk, a needle carrying arm located adjacent to the base of the trunk, a presser bar and foot carried thereby, an overhanging cylinder carried adjacent to the top of the trunk, feed and cooperating stitch mechanism carried by the cylinder, a work attachment carried at the end of the cylinder and above the needle for forming a hem for the insertion of an elastic, and means for diverting a part of the hem thereby to expose the elastic and permit its ready removal.

2. In an upside down sewing machine, the combination of a trunk having an opening at its bottom, a supporting bracket secured to the top thereof for supporting it on its work table, an overhanging cylinder carried by the trunk, an underhung arm below the .cylinder, a needle and its operating mechanism carried by the arm, a feed and cooperating stitch mechanism carried by the cylinder above the arm and its needle, an oil reservoir secured adjacent to said opening and means for forcing the oil therefrom to lubricate the working parts.

3. A sewing machine having a trunk, a needle carrying arm located adjacentto the base of the trunk, a presser bar and foot carried thereby, an overhanging cylinder carried adjacent to the stop of the trunk, feed and cooperating stitch mechanism carried by the cylinder, means for forming a hem and for inserting an elastic strip between the hem and the body of the garment, and means for pulling a part of the hem from the stitch line thereby to leave a portion of this hem unstitchcd to permit the ready removal of the elastic strip.

4. In an upside down sewing machine, the combination of a trunk, an overhanging cyl inder, an underhung arm below the cylinder, a needle and-its operating mechanism carried by the arm, a presser foot mechanism carried by. said arm, a feed and cooperating stitch mechanism carried by the cylinder above the arm and its needle, a folder carried bythe presser foot for forming a hem for the insertion of an elastic, and means for diverting a part of the hem thereby to expose the elastic.

5. In an upside down sewing machine, the combination of a trunk, an overhanging cylinder, an underhung arm below the cylinder, a needle and its operating mechanism carried by the arm, a presser foot mechanism carried by said arm, a feed and cooperating stitch mechanism carried by the cylinder above the arm and its needle, a folder carried by the presser foot for forming a hem for the insertion of an elastic, means for diverting a part of the hem thereby to expose the elastie, and a lever for operating said diverting means.

6. A sewing machine having a trunk, a needle carrying arm located adjacent to the base of the trunk, a presser bar and footcar-' ried thereby, an overhanging cylinder carried adjacent to the top of the trunk, feed and cooperating stitch mechanism carried by the cylinder, means for forming a hem for the insertion of an elastic at such hemmed portion, and means for diverting a portion of the hem from the stitch line thereby to permit the ready removal of the elastic.

7. In an upside down sewing machine, the combination of'a trunk having an opening at its bottom, an inclined supporting bracket secured to the top thereof for supporting it on its work table, an overhanging cylinder carried by the trunk, an underhung arm below the cylinder, aneedle and its operating mechanism carried by the arm, a feed and cooperating stitch mechanism carried by the cylinder above the arm and its needle, an oil reservoir secured adjacent to said 0 ening, and means for forcing the oil there rom to lubricate the working parts 8. In an upside down sewing machine, the

combination of a trunk having an opening at its bottom, a supporting bracket secured to the top thereof for supporting it on its work table, said supporting bracket having an opening in the top thereof to permit access to the lubricating system, an overhanging cylinder carried by the trunk, an underhung arm below the cylinder, a needle'and its operating mechanism carried by the arm, a feed and co-operating stitch mechanism carried by the cylinder above the arm andits needle, an oil reservoir secured adjacentflto said opening, and means for forcing the oil therefrom to lubricate the working parts.

9. In an upside down sewing machine, the combination of a trunk having an opening at its bottom, an inclined supporting bracket secured to the top thereof for supporting it on its work table and provided with a substantiallyrectangular opening in the top thereof to permit access to the lubricating system, an overhanging cylinder carried by the trunk, an underhung arm below the cylinder, a needle and its operating mechanism carried by the arm, a feed and co-operating stitch mechanism carried by the cylinder above the arm and its needle, an oil reservoir secured adjacent to said opening, and means for forcing the oil therefrom to lubricate the working parts.

10. In an upside down sewing machine, the combination of a trunk having an opening at its bottom, a supporting bracket secured to the top thereof for supporting it on its work table, an overhanging cylinder carried by the trunk, an underhung arm below the cylinder, a needle and its 0 erating mechanism carried by the arm, a eed and co-operating stitch mechanism carried by the cylinder above the arm and its needle, an oil reservoir secured adjacent to said" opening and means for forcing the oil therefrom to lubricate the working parts. and a back cover plate for the trunk, said plate carrying said oil reservoir.

11. In' an upside down sewingmachine, the combination of a trunk having an opening at its bottom, a supporting bracket secured to the top thereof for supporting it on its work table, an overhanging cylinder carried by the trunk, an underhung arm below the cylinder, a needle and its operating mechanism carried by the arm, a feed and cooperating stitch mechanism carried by the cylinder above the arm and its needle, an oil reservoir secured adjacent to said opening and means for forcing the oil therefrom to lubricate the working parts, and a back cover plate for the trunk, said plate having integral therewith said oil reservoir.

12. A sewing machine havin a trunk, a needle-carrying arm located adjacent to the base of the trunk, a presser bar and foot carried thereby, an overhanging cylinder carried adjacent to the top of the trunk, feed and co-operating stitch mechanism carried by the cylinder, 8. work attachment carried at the end of the cylinder and above the needle for forming a hem for the insertion of an elastic, and wire-formed means for diverting a part of the hem thereby to expose Q the elastic and permit its ready removal.

13. A sewing machine havin a trunk, a needle-carrying arm located ad1acent to the base of the trunk, a presser bar and foot carried thereby, an overhanging cylinder carried adjacent to the top of the trunk, feed and co-operating stitch mechanism carried by the cylinder, a work attachment carried at the end of the cylinder and above the needle for forming a hem for the insertion of an elastic, and a single, hook-shaped, wireformed means for diverting a part of the hem thereby to expose the elastic and permit its ready removal, said diverter being located over the folded edges of the hem.

14.'A sewing machine havin a trunk, a needle-carrying arm located ad acent to the base of the trunk. a presser bar and foot carried thereby, an overhanging cylinder carried adjacent to the top of the trunk, feed and co-operatin'g stitch mechanism carried by the cylinder, a guard carried by the needle arm, a hem folder located in position for folding a hem in the body of the goods,

for the reception of an elastic and means for pulling a part of the hem away from the stitch line thereof to expose the elastic.

Signed at Nyack, county of Rockla-nd,

State of New York, this 13th day of July,

JOHN P. WEIS.

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