US1204258A - Sewing-machine and folding attachment therefor. - Google Patents

Description

APPLICATION FILED NOV. 20, I912.

Patented Nov. 7, 1916.

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G. W- EBERLEY.

SEWING MACHINE AND FOLDING ATTACHMENT THEREFOR.

APPLlCATiON FILED Nov. 20, 1912.

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I I '1 P w G. W. EBERLEY. SEWING MACHINE AND FOLDING ATTACHMENT THEREFOR.

APPLICATION FILED NOV. 20, 1.912.

1,29%,258. Patented Nov. 7, 1916.

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GEORGE W. EBERLEY, OF VJHITESBOBQ, NEW YGRK,

ASSIGNOR TO UNION SPECIAL MACHINE COMPANY, OF CHICAGO, ILLINO IS, A COREORATION (3F ILLINOIS.

SEWING-MACHINE AND FOLDING ATTACHMENT THEREFOR.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Nov. "4, 1916.

Application filed November 20, 1912. Serial No. 732,508.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, GEORGE W. Ennnnnr, a c1t1zen of the United States, residing at lVhitesborO, in the County of Oneida State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines and Folding Attachments Therefor, of which the following is a description, ref erence being had to the accompanying drawing and to the figures of reference marked thereon.

The invention. relates to new and useful improvements in sewing machines and folding attachments therefor, and more particularly to attachments for folding and guiding a strip of fabric to a stitching mechanism, wherein the strip is led to the stitching mechanism from a direction substantially at a right angle to the line of feed, and is inverted and fed to the stitching mechanism.

An object of the invention is to provide a directing device for a folder of the above character, which directing device may be adj usted angularly relative to the longitudinal axis of the folder, for varying the position of the feed of the folded strip to the stitching mechanism.

A further object of the invention is to provide an adjustable directing device of the above character with means whereby the same may be adjusted without stopping the stitch-forming mechanism.

A still further object of the invention is to provide a folding and guiding device for folding and inverting a strip of fabric, which is so constructed that the an le of the edges over which the strip is inverted may be adjusted relative to the longitudinal axis of the folder.

These and other objects will in part be obvious, and will in part be hereinafter more fully described.

In the drawings which show by way of illustration one embodiment of the invention, Figure l. is a partial end view of a sewing machine having my improved folding and guiding device applied thereto, the bed plate being broken away to show more clearly the folding device; Fig. 2 is a plan view, showing more or less diagrammatically the work support and needles of a sewing machine with my improved folding and guiding device applied thereto; Fig. 3 is a horizontal sectional view through the folding and guiding device, showing the guiding device in one position relative to the stitching mechanism; Fig. 4.- is a view similar to Fig. 3, with the directing device in another position for feeding the folded strip to the stitching mechanism; Fig. 5 is an enlarged perspective view of a folder embodying my improvements, also showing a section of fabric as led into the folder, and as it leaves the folder; Fig. 6 is a rear perspective view of the folder; Fig. 7 is an end view of the directing device, showing the rear part of the folder; Fig. 8 is an end view of the folding device, showing a face or side view of the directing member; Fig. 9 is a detail showing one means for adjusting the directing device relative to the folder; lh 10 shows a strip of fabric cut so as to form, when folded, shaped connected collarets, which may he guided, folded, inverted and directed to the stitching mechanism and attached to a garment; Fig. 11 is a perspective view showing the manner of folding and i vert-ing a strip such as shown in Fig. 10; and Fig. shows a inished garment having a shaped collaret attached thereto by my improved folding and guiding device.

The invention consists generally in a folder of the well known English binder type; that is, a folder which is capable of guidin folding and inverting a strip of fabric as it passes to the stitch-forming mechanism. Cooperating with this folding device is a directing device which engages the strip after it is folded, and directs the same to the stitch-forming mechanism. This directing device is attached to the main folder so as to swing about the end of the inner folding member, where it engages and folds a strip, as a pivotal center, so that the part of the guiding device which engages the fold in the strip for all adjustment thereof, is substantially continuous with the part in the main folding device which ongages the fold in the strip. This guiding or directing device for the folded strip is, therefore, angularly adjustable relative to the longitudinal axis of the folder, and by adjusting said device relative to the stitching mechanism, the feeding of the strip to the stitching mechanism may be varied.

In the present embodiment of the invention, this directing device is normally held by a spring, so as to guide the fabric in a direction at right angles to the longitudinal l axis of the main folding device. Said directing device is capable, however, of being adjusted manually and'during the op eration of the stitching mechanism, so as to shift the feed of the strip relative to the stitching mechanism. Means is also provided for holding the strip in folded condition as it passes through the directing de- VlCe.

Referring more in detail to the drawings, my improved folding and guiding device consists of the main folding member 1, which may be formed of a plate bent so as to form an inner guiding wall 2, and an outer guiding wall 3. As shown in the drawings, the outer guiding wall 3 is formed with a slot 4, and bridge pieces 5 and 6 are attached to the sections of this outer guiding member and hold the same in proper spaced relation to one another. This slot is for the purpose of guiding the strip through the folder in starting the same through the folder.

vAt the delivery end, the two walls 2 and 3 are bent so as to form a 'U-shaped passage 7. These walls also at the delivery end are cut or shaped on an angle of forty-five degrees to the longitudinal axis of the folder, so that the strip passing through the folder may be inverted over the ends of the inner wall and led therefrom in a direction substantially at right angles thereto. This is the common form of English binder for guiding and inverting a strip of fabric. This folder is provided with a shank 8, having suitable openings 9 therein, through which said folder may be secured to the work support of the machine. 7

I have shown my improved folder and guiding device as attached to a sewing machine having a work plate 10. Said work plate. is formed with a slot, as is customary in this type of machine, so that when the shank of the folder 8 is secured to the depending apron or flange 12 of the work plate 10, the plane of the work plate cuts the folder substantially centrally between the delivery ends of the folder. The body fabric to which. the folded strip is stitched may, therefore, rest on the workplate and be fed through the U-shaped end of the folder, in the manner well understood in this art.

The stitch-forming mechanism for stitching a folded strip to a body fabric, as shown in the drawings, includes two spaced needles 13 and 14, which-are carried by a needle bar 15 reciprocating in the needle head 16 of the sewing machine.

The sewing machine is also provided with the usual presser foot 16, which holds the work upon the work support, and 00613- erates with the feed. As shown in Fig. 2. I have indicated a sewing machine having an upper feed 17, which engages the upper blank, as shown in said figure, extends from V the line 00-00- to the line y-y.' These tapered ends when the collaret is applied ,to the.

garment, are the-finishing ends for the col-' laret, as indicated in Fig. 12. By this shaping of the collaret, the side edges thereof in the finished. garment have the appearance of vanishing or intersecting, thus giving a neat and shapely appearance to the garment.

The folder above described will'operate to fold and guide a strip or strips of even width, so that said stripswill be properly engaged by the stitching mechanisnn If, however, the strip varies in width, the strip led from such a folder would be carried outside or improperly directed to the stitching mechanism.

As a means for taking care of strips varying in width, I have provided the folder above described with a guiding or directing device 18. Thisguiding device, as clearly shown in the drawings, is formed with a central U-shaped guiding passage 19, and said guiding device is pivoted to the main folding device, so as .to swing about a pivot point located at the end of the inner folding member of the main folding device, where said inner folding member engages the fold in the strip being folded. The guiding device 18 is swung about this pivotal point 20, as a center. Said guiding device is formed, as shown in the drawings, with a bracket 21 to which is attached-a spring 22. This spring at its other end is connected to an eye 23 on the main folder.

A bar 24 extends through suitable lugs 25 carried by the main folder, and this spring 22 normally swings the guiding or directing device 18, so that the rear face thereof rests against said bar.

As a means forrmoving the guiding device about its pivotal point and away from the limiting bar 24, I have provided a lever 26, which is, as herein shown, pivoted to the ends of the bar 24, and is bale-shaped. Said lever 26 extends underneath the bracket 21, and bears against the rear face of the guiding or directing device 18. The outer end of the lever 26 is connected to a rod or chain 27, which in turn is connected on the rock lever' 28, the lever 26 will be moved about its pivotal point, so as to swing the guiding or directing device 18 away from the limiting bar.

The edges 30 of the guiding or directing device 18 at the receiving end thereof, are cut at an angle of 45 to the longitudinal axis of said guiding or directing device, so that when said guiding device is at right angles to the longitudinal axis of the main folder, said edges 80 are in line with the edges of the inner folding member of the main folder. The fabric strip passing through the main folder will, herefore, be inverted over the inclined edges 30 of the guiding or directing device 18. As this guiding or directing device is adjusted, the receiving edges 30 thereof will be moved away from the edges of the inner folding member of the main folding device, as shown for example in Fig. 4. It will, therefore, be apparent that the shifting of this directing or guiding device will vary the angle of the edges thereof over which the fabric strip is inverted, relative to" the longitudinal axis of the main folding member. These inverting edges of the guiding or directing device, however, remain in fixed relation to the longitudinal axis of said guiding or directing device. Therefore, the strip as it is led through said guiding device, even though it is fed in a direction at an obtuse angle to the longitudinal axis of the main folder, will always move in a fixed direction relative to the inverting edges, and no uneven strain is placed on said fabric strip. In other words, if the edges of the main folding member were the inverting edges when the parts are arranged as shown in Fig. 4, it will be apparent that a greater strain will. be placed on the strip at the fold in the strip than at the free edges thereof, which would cause the strip to be improperly stretched, but with my improvement, wherein the inverting edges are also shifted with the directing member, an even strain is maintained on the strip regardless of the direction in which the strip is led from the folder.

As a means for maintaining the folded strip in the guiding or directing device 18, I have provided a guiding wire 81. This guiding wire is preferably U-shaped, and is so proportioned that when attached to the delivery end of the guiding or directing device, it will form a U-shaped guiding space 32, through which the folded collaret strip may be led. This wire engages the inner face of the inverted strip, and holds the same well within the guiding or directing device.

In Fig. 12 of the drawing, 1 have shown the collaret as stitched to the garment by cross stitching, indicated at S. It will be understood however, that other forms of stitching mechanism may be used in connection with my improved folding and guiding device. This cross stitching is formed by cross stitch thread guides 33 and 36, which are pivoted to the head of the machine and properly swing back and forth, so as to lay the thread thereof first underneath one of the stitching needles and then the other, in the well known manner. The presser foot 15 is formed with a stitched tongue 3%, over which the cross stitching may be laid.

In the operation of my device, the strip to be folded is passed through the main folder and is inverted and led therefrom to the stitching mechanism. The guiding or directing device 18 is positioned so as to maintain the direction of feed of the strip after it leaves the folder. The free end 35 of this guiding or directing device is preferably disposed at a point adjacent a line passing through the stitching needles, although said point is necessarily located a sufficient distance in front thereof so that it may be swung at an angle to the main folder, without interfering with the presser foot, as shown in Fig. 4.

When strips of different widths are to be fed to the stitching mechanism, the guiding and directing device 18 will be swung at an angle to the main folder, so as to direct the free edges of the strip between the needles; that is, if said strip is to be stitched to the garment and have the free edges thereof covered by cross stitching. If a narrower strip is to be stitched to the garment, the same may be passed through the folder and the guiding or directing device shifted relative to the main folder, so as to bring the free edges thereof between the needles, and this may be accomplished without shifting the main folder toward or from the line of feed.

Vhen stitching a collaret to a garment, or a strip which varies in width, throughout its length, the guiding or directing device is similarly shifted toward and from the stitching mechanism, so as to always direct the free edge of the strip between the needles. The guiding device may be shifted during the stitching operation. Therefore, the operator by watching the strip as it )asses from the 'uidin or directin device b (D b 3 may by the aid of the treadle or knee shift, throw the guiding or directing device one way or the other, so as to maintain the line of feed of the free edges between the needles. In other words, this guiding or directing device is manually controlled, and may be shifted for varying the feed of the strip to the stitching mechanism, without in any way adjusting the capacity of the main folding member, or its position longitudinally relative to the line of feed.

While I have shown manually-controlled means for adjusting the guiding ordirecting member, it will be obvious that other ways of adjusting said member may be used, without departing from the spirit of the invention, as set forth in the appended claims.

WVhile I have shown my main folding device as constructed and arranged for folding and inverting a strip of fabric, it will be obvious that from certain aspects of the invention, my auxiliary folding member, which is moved by the operator relative to the line of feed, may be used in connection with other types of folder or guiding devices for the strip, which passes through the auxiliary folding and guiding device.

It will be noted that the auxiliary folding and guiding device is provided with means for holding the free edges of the strip separated and that the main folding device is also cut away at its delivery end, and, therefore, the body .fabric to which the strip is to be attached may pass freely though the space at the delivery end of the main folder, and also freely through the auxiliary folding and guiding device. This free passage of the fabric prevents any undue friction thereon, and, therefore, allows a knitted garment to be freely fed to the stitching mechanism by the feed of the sewing machine.

While I have also shown my improved folding and guiding device as operating to direct a fabric strip to a cross-stitching mechanism, it is obvious that said guiding device may be used in connection with any form of stitching mechanism.

I have shown the collaret blanks in Fig. 10 as connected together in one continuous series, so that the blank being stitched will operate to draw the next succeeding blank through the folder. These collarets 'may, if desired, be stitched to the body garments, and afterward cut apart and finished, as shown in Fig. 12 of the drawing.

It is also obvious that minor changes in the details of construction and arrangement of parts may be made, without departing from the spirit of the invention, as set forth in the appended claims. 7

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by 7 Letters Patent, is

1. The combination with a folding device for guiding and inverting a strip, of a guiding device for directing the inverted strip to the stitch forming mechanism and means'whereby the angle of said guiding device relative to the longitudinal axis of the folder may be adjusted for varying the position of the strip fed to the stitch forming mechanism.

2. The combination with a folding device for guiding and inverting a strip, of a guiding device for directing the inverted strip to the stitch forming mechanism, and mama.

ally controlled means for adjusting the angle of said guiding device relative to the longitudinal axis ofthe folder for varying the position of the strip fed to the stitch forming mechanism. r

3. The combination with a main folding device for folding and inverting a strip, of a guiding device for directing the inverted strip to the stitch-forming mechanism, said guiding device being pivoted to said main folding device, and means for adjusting the angle of said guiding device relative to the longitudinal axis of the folder.

4. The combination with a folding device for folding and inverting a strip, of a guiding device for directing the inverted strip to the stitch-forming mechanism, said guiding device being normally positioned with its longitudinal axis at right angles to. the longitudinal axis of the folder, and means for adjusting said guiding device about'its receiving end as an axis, whereby the. angle of said guiding device may be adjusted relative to the longitudinal axis of the folder.

5. The combination with a folding device for folding and inverting a strip, of a guiding device for directing the inverted strip to the stitch-forming mechanism, said guiding device having the receiving end thereof cut at an angle of forty-five degrees to the longitudinal axis of the guiding device, said edges of the receiving end being positioned so that the strip is inverted over the same, and means for varying the angle of said guiding device relative to the longitudinal axis of said folder.

6. The combination with a folding device for folding and inverting a strip, of a guid-' ing device for directing the inverted strip to the stitch-forming mechanism, said guiding device having the receiving end thereof cut at an angle of forty-five degrees to the longitudinal axis of the guiding device, said edges of the receiving end being positioned so that the strip is inverted over the same, means for varying the angle of said guiding device relative to the longitudinal axis of" said folder, said angle varying means ineluding devices which may be manually controlled, whereby .said guiding device may be shifted without stopping the stitching mechanism.

7. The combination with a main folding guiding device, and a spring and cooperating stops for normally holding said guiding device with the longitudinal axis thereof at right angles to the longitudinal axis of the main folder.

8. The combination with a main folding device for folding and inverting a strip, of a U-shaped guiding device located at the delivering end of said main folding device, and means for adjusting the angle of said guiding device relative to the longitudinal axis of said main folding device.

9. The combination with a main folding device for folding and inverting a strip, of a Ushaped guiding device located at the delivering end of said main folding device, means for pivotally attaching said guiding device to the main folding device, whereby said guiding device swings about the end of the folding device as a pivotal center, and means for adjusting the angle of said guiding device relative to the longitudinal axis of said main folding device.

10. The combination with a main folding device for folding and inverting a strip, of a U-shaped guiding device located at the deliver-ing end. of said main folding device, means for pivotally attaching said guiding device to the main folding device, whereby said guiding device swings about the end of the folding device as a pivotal center, and means for adjusting the angle of said guiding device relative to the longitudinal axis of said main folding device, said last named means including manually controlled devices for shifting the guiding device without stopping the stitching mechanism.

11. The combination with a main folding device for folding and inverting a strip, of

a U-shaped guiding device located at the delivering end of said main folding device, means for pivotally attaching said guiding device to the main folding device, whereby said guiding device swings about the end of the folding device as a pivotal center, and means for adjusting the angle of said guiding device relative to the longitudinal axis of said main folding device, said last named means including a spring for moving said guiding device in one direction, a stop for limiting the movement thereof, and manually controlled means for moving said guiding device in the other direction.

12. The combination with a folding device for folding and inverting a strip, of a guiding device for directing the inverted strip to the stitch-forming mechanism, means whereby the angle of said guiding device relative to the longitudinal axis of the folder may be adjusted, and means movable with the guiding device for maintaining the strip in the same.

18. The combination with a folding device for guiding and inverting a strip, of a guiding device for directing the inverted strip to the stitch-forming mechanism, said guiding device including a movable U- shaped section and means movable with said U-shaped section for maintaining the folded strip in contact with the wall thereof.

14. The combination with a folding device for guiding and inverting a strip, of a guiding device for directing the inverted strip to the stitch-forming mechanism, said guiding device including a U-shaped memher, and a U-shaped guiding wire attached to the delivering end of said guiding device and spaced from the wall thereof, whereby said strip is properly guided through said guiding device.

15. The combination with a stitching mechanism, of means for folding a strip and inverting the same, and means located between the folding and inverting means and the stitching mechanism for guiding the strip to the stitching mechanism, said guiding means for the strip being capable of adjustment to different angular positions relative to the folder and without stopping the stitching mechanism, whereby a strip of varying width may be properly directed to the stitching mechanism.

16. The combination with a stitching mechanism, of a device for folding and inverting a strip and directing the same to said stitching mechanism, said folding and directing device having inclined edges over which the strip is inverted, and means for adjusting the inclination of said edges relative to the longitudinal axis of the folder,

for varying the direction of the delivery of the strip to the stitch-forming mechanism.

17. The combination with a folding device for guiding and inverting a strip, of a supplemental guiding device for directing the inverted strip to the stitch-forming mechanism, and means under the control of the operator for adjusting the guiding device back and forth independently of the folding devices and with respect to the line of feed while the machine is in operation, whereby the edge of a strip varying in width may be maintained in operative posi tion at all times with respect to the stitchforming mechanism.

18. The combination with a folder having an inner and outer guiding wall the delivery ends thereof being formed on an acute angle to the longitudinal axis of the folder whereby the strip be folded and then inverted, a device for directing the strip from the folder to the stitch forming mechanism and means for adjusting said directing device relative to the folder and in a direction relative to the folder and relative to the line of feed whereby a strip of varying width may be guided and maintained in operative position with respect to the stitch forming mechanism and while the machine is in operation.

19. The combination of a stitch-forming mechanism having a needle and a device for folding a strip of material having varying width and directing its free edges to said needle, including a folding device, having a folding and guiding channel, a second device having a guiding channel for said'strip,

of the same capacity as said first named channel, and means for maintaining the free edges of the strip in the path of the needle.

20. A device for folding and guiding a strip of fabric, including a main folding device for folding a strip of material on itself, a second folding device for receiving the strip after it is folded by said first named main folding device, said second folding device having a portion for engaging and guiding the strip at the fold therein, and a portion for engaging and directing the free edges of said folded strip and means for adjusting said second folding device angularly relative to the first folding device for directing strips of varying width.

21. A device for folding and guiding a strip of fabric, including a main folding device, a supplemental folding device normally disposed substantially at right angles to the main folding device, manual means for moving said supplemental folding device for varying the path of travel of the folded strip to the stitching mechanism, and automatic means for returning said supplemental folding device to its normal position.

22. A device for folding and guiding a strip offabric, including a main folding device having its delivery end cut at an angle to the longitudinal axis of said folding device, a supplemental folding device, having its longitudinal axis arranged at an angle to the longitudinal axis of the main folding device, and its delivery end cut at an angle to the longitudinal axis of said supplemental folding device and means for varying the angular position of the supplemental folding device relative to the main folding device.

23. A device for folding and guiding a strip of fabric, including a main folding device, having a folding and guiding channel, said folding device having its delivery end formed with a space for the passage of the fabric to which the strip is to be attached, a supplemental folding device for guiding said strip from said main folding device to the stitching mechanism and means for varying the angular position of the supplement-al folding device relative to the main folding device, said supplemental folding device having means for providing a free passage for the fabric to which the strip is to be attached.

24. A device for folding and guiding a strip of fabric, including main folding members for foldinga strip between its edges, and auxiliary folding members cooperating with said main folding members for.

inverting and folding the strip and guiding the same to the stitch-forming mechanism, said auxiliary folding members being located between'the main folding members at the delivery end thereof and means for adjusting the position of the auxiliary folding members relative to the main folding member. v

25. A device for folding and guiding a strip of fabric, including a main folding de-' 26. A folding device. for folding and guiding a shaped fabric strip of varying width, including relatively narrowed portions, comprising a main folding member for folding the wide portions of the strip and inverting said strip, and an adjustable supplemental folder at the delivery end of the main folding member for receiving the strip as it passes from the main folding member, and having its folding walls more closely spaced than the walls of the main folder, to insure the folding of the narrowed portions of the strip.

27. A folding device for folding and guiding ashap'ed fabric strip of varying width, including relatively narrowed portions, comprising a main folding member for folding the wide portions of the strip and inverting said strip, a supplemental folder at the delivery end of the main fold- I ing member for receiving the strip as it passes from the main folding member, and having its folding walls more closely spaced than the walls of the main folder, to insure the folding of the narrowed portions of the strip, and means for moving the supplemental folding member to vary the angle of said supplemental member relative to the longitudinal axis of the main folding member, whereby the strip may be kept in proper operative relation to the stitch forming mechanism. I

In testimony whereof, I affix my signature, in the presence of two witnesses.

GEORGE W. EBERLEY.

Witnesses:

JOSEPH BERGER, Jr., CHAS. B. MASON.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents,

Washington, D. (3.

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