US1412082A - Method of making shoes - Google Patents

Description

F. N. LA- CHAPELLE.

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED JUNE 20.1919.

Patented Apr. 11, 1922.

UNITED,

FRED N. LA oHAPnnLE, or BnvnnnY, MAssAoHUsE'r-irs, Assmnon ro UNITED sHo-n MACHINERY co-nrona'rron, or rArEnsoN, NnwJ RsEY,.-A conronnrron. or NEW" JERSEY. v

- Application filed June 20,

provements in'Methods of Making Shoes, of

which the following description, in connection with theaccompanying drawings, is a specification, like reference characters onthe' drawings indicating like parts in-the several" figures.

' shoemaking thatth'e shoe upper be properly F This invention relates to methods of 'making shoes and particularly'to methods of making shoes in which the margin ofthe upper is turned outwardly and attached to the margin of the sole, 'shoes'of this type be ing generally known as stitchdown shoes.

Itis, ofcourse, a prime requisite to good lasted, that is, that the various portions of theupper about the periphery of the shoe, particularly along the sides and around the toe, be tensioned in adirection perpendicular to the lastbottom and held temporarily against the sides of the-last, including-the portion of the sides adjacent to the sole edge, before they are permanently attached to the sole. o

In the manufacture'of stitch'down shoes by a known method,'the margin of the upper is temporarily fastened to the edge face of the projecting sole by tacks. I When this is done, however, no substantial-tension can be applied to the upper and'main'tai'ned since the jholding powerof the tacks, when driven into-the leather of the sole, is slight and the upper, since it is bridged across the angle between the "side of the last and the project; ing marginof the sole, can not be brought into-finallastedposition when thus temporarilysecured.

' An object of this invention is to provide a machine for lasting stitchdown' shoe uppers'by which anupper'may be pulled and wiped into lasted position-in the highlyef- -ficientmani1er heretofore practiced only in lasting welt and McKay shoes and maybe. temporarily secured to the last bottom."

In one of its broader aspects the present invention consists in lasting'an upper over a last and 'temporarily'securing the margin of the upper directly to the last'bottom, the;

sides of the upper being thereby brough't against thesides of the last into finally lasted position. As herein exemplified, the upper is'then further secured in lasted position Specification of Letters Patent. 7

METHOD or MAKING sirens.

1919. Serial No; 305,484.

Patented A t. 11', 1922'.-

along the line at Which the marginofthe upper is to be turned outwardly to form the sole attaching flange, after which the'fir'st and temporary fastenings are withdrawn" and the-flange of the'upper is turned out-- wardly, a sole being then applied and securedto the outturned margin of the upper.

In another'aspect the invention consists in providing on" the last itself an angle into which the upper maybe lasted as, for example,by'prov iding'a plate on' the last-b012 5 tom whichprqe'cts slightly beyond the'side face of the last.- Thislaspect offthe invention is weSpecially p cable-acne we or the*:

shoe where theupp'er is wiped against the] end and sides of the toe'and forced into the angle'between theside of the 'last a'nd theprojecting plate. Thiscause'sthe portion of the upper margin beyond the plate to flare outwardly and the upper may be secured in the angle inqfinallyz lasted position by a binding wire-located in the angle of the up} per and secured ,at'its ends, for example, to"

the forward'pair' of temporary tacks ei'nployed to secure the side portion'ofthe lip-' per margin to-thelast bottom. The lasting" of the toe is effected, of course, beforethe sole is applied as described above.

In practice a last is provided which has upon its bottom an iron plate which prefer ably covers the entire surface of the'last' bottomandat the toe endo'f the lastprojects slightly beyond the edge of'the'last; Along the sides" of the .last'bott'or'n openings are provided in the p'late-iniwhic'h tacksfniay be driven into the wood of the last... The plate is also providedat certain points along the sides of the/last with slots-which are open at the edge of the last and in which slots there per prepared as usual is placed over the last,'fl

successive portions of the upper tensioned to it and laid'overthe last bottom 'ttowhich they are secured by tacks driven through the openings in the platefintopthe wood of the :1ast.

At the toeof. the last the upper may be tensio'ned and jwiped 'as' usual in a Y direction toward-the-last-bottom and formed into the angle between the side-of the last and the slightly projectingmargin of the plate.

Around thetoe" the upper may be held in lasted positionby a binding wire applied around the toe inthe'angle-fOrmed in the 95 are hooks, the ends of which are; below 't he general surface of the last bottom." Anupthe side by the lasting tacks which are adj acent to the toe end of the shoe. Obviously,

V the lasting of the shoe may be performed by hand or by lasting machines of known type such as bed lasting machines. After the upper is lasted it is secured at the line along which it is to be bent outwardly by passing a cord or thread through the upper at points opposite to the hooks above mentioned and hooking the thread over the hooks. About the toe of the shoe the thread is carried around the shoe toe in the same location as plied, if desired, in the usual manner. Preferably at the heel end of the shoe a piece of leather the shape of a heel-seat is applied to the iron plate and the upper is turned in and permanently secured to the piece of leather.

In the drawings,-

Fig. 1 is a view of the bottom of a shoe the upper of which has been lasted in accordance with the present invention;

Fig. 1 is a sectional detail of the toe of the shoe shown in Fig. 1;

Fig. 2 is a perspective view, partly in section, showing the manner of securing the upper by a retaining thread to permit the lasting tacks to be withdrawn;

Fig. 3 is a similar view showing the manner of securing the upper temporarily by lasting tacks;

Fig. 4 shows the lasting tacks removed and the upper turned outwardly and ready to receive the sole; and

r Fig. 5 is a perspective detail, partly in section, showing the outturned upper secured to the sole.

In Fig.1 the numeral2 indicates a bottom plate of metal secured to the bottom of the last by screws 4;. This plate 2 preferably about the toe portion where the margin of the plate projects slightly beyond the edge ofthe last, the projection being, for example, of an inch. 'The heel seat portion of the plate 2 is covered by a piece of leather or other suitable material 6 and the margin of the upper is lasted over upon the piece 6 in the usual manner and secured by tacks 8 which are clenched uponthe plate 2.

Along the sides of the last the plateQ is provided with holes 10 (Fig. 4), exposing the .wood of the last, through which tacks 12 are driven temporarily to secure the margin of the upper over the last bottom under tenien la ted po a projecting portion of the plate 2 it causesthe upper about the toe to flare outwardly (Fig. l of the shoe to be bent outwardly, it is held against the side of the last adjacent to the edge of the plate 2 by a cord, thread, or other filament 13 arranged along the line where the outward bend should be located, the cord being secured to the last at salient points. This may conveniently be effected by employing a needle having an eye in its point through which thethread is passed.

At various points along the sides of the last recesses 16, opening at the edge of the last,v

are provided andin each recessis a hook 18. The threaded needle is passed through the upper and open end of the recess *16 and the cord 13 hooked over the hook 18 (Fig.

2).. The needle is then withdrawn and car ried along the sides of the last to the next recess where the operation is repeated. When one side of the last has been thus To enable the upper at-the sidestreated the cord may conveniently be car-- ried around the toe, and the upper at the other side of thelast secured in place by passing the cord through the upper and over the books .18 along that side of the shoe. The friction of the thread over the hooks is sutlicient to hold the thread without otherwise securing it.

Next the lasting tacks 12 are withdrawn and the upper at the sides turned outwardly,- cuts 20 being made at the juncture of the.

sides with the heel-seat topermit turning out the portions of upper adjacent to the heel-seat portion which has'already been lasted inwardly. A sole 22 is, now secured to the shoe or last, for instance, by cementing the outwardly turned margin of the upper and applying the sole to the last bottom. After the cement has setthe cord 13 may be removed and the projecting mar;

gin' of the sole and out-turned margin of the upper sewed together as at 2 1 by an stitching is done and the Welt, pper and both soles secured together at the same time the upper about the sides of the last and temporarily securing the upper in contact with the last and under tension, additionally holding the upper to the last, releasing the upper from the first-named temporary securing means, applying a sole to the last bottom, and thereafter completing the manufacture of the shoe.

2. That improvement in making stitchdownshoes which consists in tensioningand lasting over the margin of the sides of the upper against the bottom of the last, temporarily securing the upper in lasted position, holding the upper to the last along the line at which it is to be bent outwardly, releasiru the temporary securing means, bending outwardly the margin of the upper, and

then securing the out turned' upper. to the margin of a'sole.

3. That improvement in making stitchdown shoes which consists in providing a last with a bottom plate which extendsslightly beyond the last about the toe,wiping the upper about the toe against the last and into the angle between the side of the'last and the projecting plate, securing the upper in the angle by a binding wire. and then securing a sole to the outwardly disposed margin of the upper about the toe.

4;. That improvement in making stitchdown shoes which consists in assembling an upper upon a last, lasting over the margin of the upper and securing'it under. tension in'contact with the last bottom, holding the upper to the last along the line at which it is to be turned outwardly, releasing the upper where first secured, turning the upper outwardly along said line, applying a sole to the last bottom, and securing the outturned upper to the margin of the'sole.

5. That improvement in making stitchdown shoes which consists in tensioning and lasting over the margin ofthe sides of the upper against the bottom of the last, tem

porarily securing the upper in lasted position to the last bottom, applying a thread to hold the upperto the last along the line at which it is to be bent outwardly, releasing the said temporary securing means,'bending outwardly the margin of the upper, and'then securing the outturned upper to the margin of a sole. j

6. That improvement in making stitchdown shoes which consists in providinga last with a bottom plate which extends slightly beyond the last about the toe, wiping the upper about the toe against the last.

and into the angle between the side of the last and the projecting plate to cause the.

upper at the'toe to project outwardly, and

then securing a sole tothe outwardly disposed margin of the upper. 7. That improvement in :making stitchdown shoes which consists in assembling an upper upon a last having no insole thereon, lasting over the sides of the upper and tacking them under tension to the last bottom, holding the upper'to the last along the line at which it is to be turned outwardly, with-' drawing the tacks, turning the upper outwardly along said line, applying a sole to the last bottom, and securing the outturned upper to the margin of the sole.

8. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in lasting an upper over the bottom of a last, securing the upper temporarily in lasted position, passing a thread loop at widely spaced points through. the upper in-a direction substantially in the plane of the last bottom, securing the loop to the last, repeating the operation about the peripher of the shoe, tightening the thread to hold t e upper against the last, releasing the temporarily secured upper margin and turning it outwardly, securing a sole to the outturned margin, and removing the thread.

9. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in providing a last with a" bottom plate that projects slightlyf beyond the'edge of the last at the toe, lasting the upper over the last bottom upon the plate, fastening a toe binding wire about'the toe in the angle between the side of the last and the projection of the plate, turning the overlasted marging of upper outwardly, and securinga sole to the outturned margin.

10. That improvement in methods of 'mak-. ing shoes which consists in providing a last with 'a bottom filament passing around the toe, thereby turningthe edge of the upper outwardly, and fastening a sole to the outturned upper;

11. That improvement in methodsof making shoes which conslsts 1n conformlng an through the upper at the juncture of the side of the last with the last'bottom, securing the and securing other loops of the same thread, tightening the thread to hold the upper to plate that projects slightly] beyond the edge of the last at the toe, con forming the upper to the last about the toe portion, fastening the upper in place by aupper to its last, passing aloop of thread 1 loop to the last, similarly passing through.

the last, turning outwardly the margin of 1 the upper which extends beyond the thread, and securing asole tothe outturned margin.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

FRED N. LA .CHAPELLEY,

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