US1515198A - Shoe - Google Patents

Description

F. s. GoRMAN SHOE Nov. 11 ,-1924, 1,515,198

Filed Oct. .3, 1922 Patented Nov. l1, i924.

A asians FRANK s. sorti/IAN, or HAvna'HrIiL, MASSACHUSETTS.

Application led October 3, 1922. Serial No. 592,056.

To all whom. t m04/ concern.' v f Be it known that I, FRANK S. GORMAN, a citizen of the United Stat-es, a resident of Haverhill, in the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Shoes, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to certain improvement-s in that class of shoes known as welts and has for its primary object to provide-'a form of shoe, and a process of making the same, which will enable the sewing operation, except the final operation of attaching the outer sole,- to the welt, to be performed as a partof the upper fitting operation, with the comomn type of straight needle sewing machine, so that a substantial saving in labor cost and machine expense may be' made. A further object ispto provide a form of welt shoe which-will be more flexible and comfortable to the wearer than the ordinary form of welt shoe.

In the same connection, another object of my invention is to provide an improved process of making shoes of the above de'- Y scribed character whereby the article produced may be improved andl expense of manufacture reduced.

I accomplish these objects in the manner hereinafter described and as illustrated in the accompanying drawing in which :e

Fig. l is a longitudinal section of a shoe in the initial stage of the process of constructing the same according to my invention.

Figs. 2, 3 and 4 are transverse sections of the shoe, illustrating successive stages in said process.

According to my invention, the preliminary work of fitting the upper a and lining b is the same as is customary up to the point when the shoe is usually lasted. Instead, however, of lasting the shoe, the edge portion of the lining Zn is stitched to the inner sole, which preferably comprises a leather section 0 having a canvas covering c. In stitching the lining thereto. the inner side of the lining is laid on the upper or inner surface of the inner sole with its edge flush with the edge thereof and then they are stitched together bv a row of stitches' d, which extend through the sole from top to bottom, as indicated in Fig. 1. At the time the upper a is cut out, a line as a', is drawn about the upper edge portion on its outer or grain side, at a uniform distance from its edge', and then a welt strip e isstitched to the upper by a row ofv stitches f. In performing rthis operation, the grain side of the welt is laid against the' outer, or grain lside of the upper.y above. and with one edge coincident with the line a', and the stitches 7 are passed directly through thc welt adjacent said edgeand through the upper, so that the partsfwill be in the condition illustrated. in

Figr. VVh'ile it is considered to be' more convenient to attach the inner sole to thev lining prior to the attachment ofthe .welt to the upper, it is not an essential to thesuccessful employment of myprocess which of theseoperations are performed first.

After these two operations have been performed, the counter and box, for stiffening the heely and toe portions, are placed in position and then the shoe is drawn' on to the last. As the inner-sole and lining will `have been stitched together in relation to the' last onk which theshoe is 'to' be made they will fit the last closely when drawn thereon.

be drawnk onto theinnersole. soy-that it is drawn tightly aboutrthe last, and is secured inypositio-n on the inner sole by cement, which has Apreviously been applied ,to the outer surface thereof. f i.

Usually afew tacks will also be employed to, hold the upper in position until the cement sets. The welt "is vattached atsuch a point on the upper that, when the uppery has been drawn into position about the last, the edge portion of the welt which is attached will overlie the edge portion of the inner sole, and the whole welt will lie fiat with the inner-sole with its o-pposite edge portion projecting beyond the side of the last. The point then reached in the process is indicated in Fig. 3.

After the cement has set sufficiently to retain the upper in this position, the tacks are removed and the outersole g is secured in position thereon and stitched to the projecting edge portion of the welt, this operation being the same as the usual outer sole stitching operation on the ordinary welt shoe. The resulting construction is illustrated in Fig. l, and the subsequent operations performed do not differ from those ordinarily performed in the manufacture of shoes of this character. l

A shoe thus constructed has all the ad- The edge portion of the upper will then lli) vantages of a Welt shoe, in that it may be repaired, has the same Wearing qualities, and is precisely the same in outward appearance. The shoe is, moreover, more flexible than the ordinary welt shoe, as the seams Which attach the lining to the inner sole, and the upper to the Welt are of a form Which do not tend to stiften the shoe, While the ordinary chain stitch inseam, which attaches the inner sole to the lining, upper and Welt tends to stiien the shoe to a substantial extent. The form of inner sole which is usually or necessarily employed, is less flexible than that which may be employed in the above described construction.

Further advantages are secured, in that the canvas covering which is employed on the inner side of the inner sole and forms a part thereof, also serves as a sock lining, and is securely held in position by the stitches Which attach the lining to the inner sole, so that it cannot become displaced, as is liable to occur When the lining is held in position by an adhesive.

A substantial saving is also made in the labor expense as the inner sole and Welt seams are formed on the ordinary straight needle sewing machines, by less highly skilled labor than that required for the usual welting operation. A further saving is made in that the only bottoming machine, which is employed in the process, is the outer sole stitcher.

Mfhile the above described process is believed to be more particularly advantageous in the manufacture of childrens shoes, it may be employed to advantage in the inanufacture of shoes of larger sizes.

I claim-- l. A Welt shoe having the inner sole connected to the lining by one roW of stiches and the Welt connected to the outer side Oi the upper by a second row of stitches, the edge portion of the upper being extended neiaiee beneath the inner sole and holding the Welt in position for attachment oi the outer sole.

2. A Welt shoe comprising the upper, a lining therefor, an inner sole and a Welt, t-he upper having the Welt stitched to the outer side thereofby one rovv of stitches, and the lining having the inner sole stitched thereto by another row of stitches, the edge portion oi the upper fbeing laid onto the outer side of the inner sole to hold the Welt With its edge portion projecting beyond the side of the shoe, and an outer sole stitched to the projecting portion of the Welt.

3. A Welt shoe comprising the fitted upper and lining, an inner sole and a welt, the upper having one edge-portion of the Welt stitched to the outer side thereof by one row of stitches located at a substantial distance from the edge of the upper and the lining having its edge portion stitched to the inner sole by another row of stitches, the edge `portion of the upper extending onto the outer side of the inner sole and holding the Welt so that its inner edge portion overlies the inner sole, and an outer sole stitched to the outer portion of the Welt.

4. A Welt shoe comprising the litted upper and lining, an inner sole and a Welt, the upper having one edge portion of the Welt stitched to the outer' side thereof by one row of stitches located therein at a substantial distance irom the edge of the upper and said lining yhaving its edge portion turned out coincidently with the edge of the innersole and stitched onto the same by another row of stitches, the edge portion ol the upper being extended onto the outer sido of the inner sole, and holding said`edge portion of the Welt so that it overlies the inner sole, and an outer sole stitched to the outer edge yportion of the Welt.

In testimony whereof, l have signed my name to this specification.

FRANK S. GOJRMAN.

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