US254594A - Eli bertrand - Google Patents

Description

(No Model.)

' E. BERTRAND.

METHOD OF LASTING AND UNITING THE UPPERS AND SOLES OF BOOTS AND SHOES.

No. 254,594. Patented Mar. 7,1882.

. UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

ELI BERTRAND, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO THE GOOD- YEAR 82; MGKAY SEWING MACHINE COMPANY, OF SAME PLACE.

METHOD OF LASTING AND UNITING THE UPPER AND SOLES 0F BOOTS AND SHOES.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 254,594, dated March 7, 1882.

Application filed January 7, 1882. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

.Beit known that I, ELI BERTRAND, of Boston, county of Suffolk, State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improved Method of Lasting and Uniting the Upperand Soles of Boots and Shoes, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification.

This invention relates to that class of boot or shoe known to the trade as stitch-downs, in which the edges of the upper turned outward from the rear part of the shank about the ball .and toe of the boot or shoe receives the stitches which unite the upper to the outer sole, or outer and filling soles. In this class of boot and shoe the upper, strained over the last, has been held in place upon the last by a metallic clamp; but this is objectionable, for the clamp, besides being expensive to make, is bulky, and increases the weight to be handled by the operator, takes up so much room as to make it impractical to unite the upper and sole together close to the last by a sewing-machine. In this my process I am enabled to entirely dispense with this clamp, shaped to correspond with the outline of the bottom of the last, and yet keep the upper in place and leave its outwardly-turned edges free to be stitched to the outer solo in an ordinary sole-sewin g machine.

In my process I first draw and stretch the upper to the last by means of pinchers, as in hand-lasting, or otherwise, after which I drive at least three tacks through the upper into the last near its bottom edge, one of the said tacks being at the toe and one each at the side of the ball of thelast, and I then drive two more tacks in a like manner into the last in the shank. These tacks are driven into the upper with such relation to the bottom of the last and the thickness of the material of which the upper is composed as to serve as a point or stop over or against which the extended edge of the upper is bent when the said edge is turned outward from the last, the said tacks serving not only to define the line on which the said upper shall be turned to enable its edge to serve as a substitute for the usual welt, but also to hold the said upper firmly in place on the last while sewing through the said edge close to the bottom of the last.

Figure 1 represents, in side elevation and partial section, a partially-lasted boot or shoe; Fig. 2, in full lines, a front end view of the toe of the upper with the edges of the upper turned down; but the dotted lines show the said edges turned up to receive stitches through and through it and the sole outside the upper; and Fig. 3 is a cross-section of the upper and last on the line at as, Fig. 1. This Fig. 3 shows the edges of the upper as having been turned upward and outward into substantially the plane of the bottom of the last and stitched to an outer sole.

The upper a, of leather, and the last I) may be of any usual kind. I draw and fit the upper to thelastin any usual way, preferably by means of pinchers. The edge of the upper is enough larger than the last to enable it to be turned outward, as shown at a to receive through it and the sole 0, outside the upper on the last, the stitches d, which (shown in dotted lines, as in Fig. 3) secure the upper and sole together. The upper having been drawn and stitched about the last, and at each side of the last near its ball, other tacks, 3, will be driven, and preferably in the shank other tacks, 4.. After these tacks are driven, as described, the edges of the upper are turned outward, as in Fig. 3, the said tacks operating to serve as a point back of which the upper cannot turn away from the last. These tacks serve toindicate and determine the line in which the bend e of the upper will be made, insuring the formation of the bend substantially at the line of the edge of the bottom of the last. With the edges of the upper turned back, as in Fig. 3, from the rear of the shank all about the fore part of the last, the upper, with the last in it, and with an outer sole, 0, applied to it, may be placed in any solesewing machine, and be stitched together by stitches (I close to the edge of the last, after which the edge of the upper and sole outside of the said stitches may be trimmed and finished in any usual manner. When the needle'reaches a point opposite the tacks or nails 2 3 4 they may be withdrawn, or the needle may pass the said tacks or nails withoutdifficulty. The completed shoe will not contain the taoks .2 3 4, and the holes left in the upper after withdrawing them may be filled with blacking, paste, or'rubber, so as not to injure the shoe.

I claim- The herein-described improvement in the manufacture of that class of boots and shoes in which the upper is turned outward and secured to the top surface of the outer sole, the same consisting in drawing the upper over the last and securing it thereto by fastenings at or near the bottom edge of the last, then turning the edge of the upper outwardly on a line with the said fastenings,and stitching such outi 5 to this specification in the presence of two sub- 20 scribing witnesses.

ELI BERTR-AND;

Witnesses:

J os. P. LIVERMORE, B. J. NoYEs.

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