US1387723A - Garment-pattern - Google Patents

Description

F. HUTTER.

GARMENT PATTERN.

APPLICATION man Nov. 21, 1920.

1,387,723, Patented Aug. 16,1921.

2 SHEETS-SHEET l- IHVEN TOI FRHNC/s HUTTER l ITTMIEY F. HUTTER'L. GARMENT PATTERN. APPLICATION FILED Nov, 27, 1920.

2 SHEETS-SHEET Z- MIEI TUI F MNC ls Hurrek PATENT omer.

MUIS BUTTER, 0F NEW YORK, N. Y.,

CORPORATION' 0F NEW YORK.

AssrGNon'ro man mehr. Gollum, A

eamtnnr-ra'rrm.

Specication of Letters Patent. Patented Angy 16, 1921.

application med November a7, im. serial No. 42s,'z's1.

To all 'whom it may concern.' Be it known that I, FRANCIS HUT'rnB, c1t1- zen of the United States, and resident of the city, county, and State of New York, have invented certain new anduseful Improve` "ments in Garment-Patterns, of which the following is a specification.

In previous applications No. 290,998, tiled April 18, 1919, and No. 375,245, filed April 20, 1920, and others, I have described a new sort of garment patterns and method of manufacturing the same. My present lnvention is in part a continuation of the foregcing a plications, being at the same time d1- recte to certain features not specified therein.

The systems'A now generally used in making paper patterns for garments include two elements; first, the separate pleces of the pattern and second an envelop, label, chart, card or the like containing instructions for the placing of the 'ieces of the fabrica-nd for manipulating t e corresponding pleces of the fabric and putting them together. For these purposes certain points and lines are indicatedon the pattern pieces by cutting or punching them with various conventional signs. A

In the manufacture of the patterns, a number of pieces are marked out on a sheet, a large number (a thousandfor example) of such sheets are stacked on one another, and the pieces are cut and perforated in such a stack. There is some distortion of the aper in cutting and punching and some yiel ing of the band-saw generally used for cutting, so that the pieces at the bottom of a stack often have their edges and the erforations therein considerably out of t eir proper locations. The error often amounts to one-eighth of an inch or more, which at some points is a serious matter and produces an ill tting garment. Also the punchings are sometimes indistinct and the paper is frequently torn. The line of punches that usually indicates the seam has the same inaccuracies as the edges of the pattern. It will be seen that with a shoulder seam, for eX- ample, or any other important seam line, a quarter of an inch out, which sometimes occurs with patterns of the old style, it is impossible to produce a well fitting and well angin garment. We often nd, with the old sty e of patterns, that two patterns intended to be of the same size and bought from the same shop .por 1n the same town .will show very substantial variations. It is chiefly to this error that we ascrlbe the home made look of some garments, as distinguished from garments made from atterns which arecut accurately by hand. hrough the multitude of confile ting perforations and notches, most of whlch are substitutes for` lines which rcannot be cut in the paper, the aspect of the separate pattern pieces is confusing and thelr correlation with the instructions very dnlicult for any but the person of long experience. And even 'for experienced persons the meaning of the various signs can be gotten only by yclose study. This results 1n considerable loss of time for the users of the patterns and in many cases entirely prevents their use.

The mechanical work of making the varlous perforations and notches and correlating them with the instructions is also costly and is so complicated that in practice errors and omissions are bound to occur at times, making the patterns unreliable.

'.lhese patterns are produced in vast quant1t1es and are shipped from the placek of manufacture over a wide territory within thls country and to foreign countries. It would be economical to make duplicates of a pattern in various centers of distribution. But such a method of production is very diiiicult with the present system. because of the difficulty of conveying from" the lace of origin to an outside center dependable guides for the manufacturing of particular patterns. The di'iculty is particularly in the making of the perforated and notched signs, for which complicated machinery and experienced workmen are needed. In distributing the patterns to foreign countries the directions have generally to be in foreign languages, and separate instructions have therefore to be printed, which adds to the complication and cost of manufacturing for shipment abroad.

I have invented a pattern which can be cheaply produced and from which the perforations and other disadvantageous features of the old patterns may be eliminated entirely or to a great extent. My improved pattern can be used easily and without loss from different shops of time by inexperienced persons, is more accurate than those made by the old method,

are printed graphic indications in exactlydetermined locations of the manner of cutting and use of the corresponding pieces of the fabric; various other features of novelty being described inv detail hereinafter.

The Yaccompanying drawings illustrate embodiments of the invention.

Fi ures l and 2 show two sheets of paper on w ich are printed all the pieces of a complete dress pattern including skirt and waist;

Fig. 3 illustrates a separate pattern piece.

A feature of improvement is in the useof a printed outline on the separate pattern pieces, with a margin outside of said prlnted outline. has been to make a cut edg'e of the pattern piece of fabric to be cut. By using a 'cut edge of the pattern piece as a guide considerable inma be applied to the outside margin accuracies 1n the manufacture are -unavoidable, and by the substitution of a printed outline I secure a perfectly accurate shape or guide for the cutting of the fabric. This printed outline can be made with perfect accuracy and with uniformity of all patterns intended` to be of the same size. Thus a machine-made pattern, made according to this invention, is as accurate as'if each pattern piece had been made separately by hand.

Another advantage of this printing of the outline is in the possibility ofrmakng patterns which were ypractically vimpossible with the old method of cutting the edges machine. For example, it has been imposslble heretofore to make paper patterns with fine scallops on the edge or with sharp concave angles or grooves. The band knife or similar tool could be turned only in a curve of comparatively large radius, and for concave angles or sharp curves the cut has to `be made in two separate operations, first from one side to the angle and then from the opposite side to the same angle. Because of this handicap there have been many desirable designs omitted from the product of the patternmanufacturers.

Another feature, and one which greatly facilitates the use of a pattern, is the use of a tint to distinguish the portion within the printed outline from the outside margin. he tint is preferably applied within the outline so as to make the pattern proper stand out conspicuously, though the tint or di erent tints may be applied outside and inside of the outline.

The general, practice heretofore corresponding to the shape of the piece stacking the sheets.

In the case illustrated what I have called the graphic indications, lcttersor figures, and the contours ofthe several pieces are printed; Aand in addition the area of each piece is brought out clearly and distinctly" by a Astippled or otherwise evenly tinted surface covering the whole of each piece or enough to secure the optical effect of holding it together to the eye and distinguishing it at once from the margin and, in the uncut sheet, from the other pieces on the sheet. Y

The pieces of the pattern should preferably be arranged in suchrelat-ive positions as to take up .the least space on the printed sheet, as by laying a projecting portlonof that is the lines and one within a. reentrant portion of another; see the long sleeve andthe whole after being printed are stacked, say one thousand in a stack, all exactly alike and in reasonably close register, and the pieces are` 'separated by means of a band-saw, Assuming that a space of one-half inch has been left between the different pieces on the sheet, the band-saw can be arranged and guided to cut with a margin of about one-quarter of an inch around each piece. Great accuracy in cutting is rendered unnecessary by the tintof the surfaces of the parts, which 'tinting distinguishes'the pattern piec and leaves the outer margin a neg ble element, to be disregarded in the use o the pattern. This provision avoids the trouble which might arise from inaccuracy of printing and of We may vfacilitate the stacking of they sheets by printing on each sheet crosses (as shown in Fig. 2) or similar marks at points corresponding to a numberA of pins standingup fromt estacking table. The operator would then force the successivesheets down with the pins passing through the marked prints, which would insure their correct register; after which Vthey would be clamped to her and cut out.

t would be quite dillicultto cut a large stack of sheets simultaneously into separate printed pattern pieces, without such inaccuracies as would be seriously detrimental tot-heir usefulness except by this expedient of leaving an extra margin. And with the tint hold the true area of the pattern piecetogether, this margin is no obstacle to the correct use of the pattern piece. In use such a tinted piece will be pinned on the goods, and the latter will be cut not to the outline of the entire pattern piece but only of the tinted area thereof; either cutting olf the margin at the same time, or beforehand, as ma be most convenient.

his tint is preferably uniform and extending over the entire area of the piece, as shown, but it may be varied in densit ,being li hter in the center, or it may be in t e form o? only a broad band of tint around the edge, or it may e varied in a number/of other ways without departing from the effect of a tint solidifying and unifying each pattern piece se arately.

Instead of using a tint stippled evenly on the paper we may get the tinted effect by the use of lines or by a combination of lines and stippling, and in this case the lines may be placed on the pattern piece in such a direc- .tion as to indicate the grain line or straight of the goods.

diiierent pieces of the same it ma be made to serve an additional purpose. or example, the stippling ma be heavier or the lines thereon wider or di erently spaced and numerous other variations may be introduced. Different pieces of the pattern might each have a different character of tint, or different groups of pieces such as the waist, skirt and trimmings of a dress, may have a dlii'erent tint for all the pieces of each group. This variation in the tint may be effected with economy in my improved pattern because each piece is made with the help of a separate model which determines its outline and also the character of its surface. For certain purposes it has heretofore been proposed to use diiierentl colored pieces in one garment pattern. ut this has meant the cutting of some o f the pieces from one sheet and others from a differently colored sheet; whereas with my invention the pieces are differently tinted on one sheet and are all cut therefrom at one operation.

The tint may be used also for another function, th'at is to show a distinction between one edge of a pattern piece and another as to their mode of use. The front panel, for example, shows a solid outline along the edges where the material is to be cut and shows only the edge of the tint without any solid denition along the edge of the piece which is to be placed on a fold, as distinguished from a cut edge of the fabric. It

' is important to make a distinction of this sort between a cutting edge and a fold of the fabric. A mistake between these is easily and frequently made with old-style patterns and is sometimes expensive in the cost of fabric cut by mistake. And a distinction of the sort described is a feature of great lvalue in my improved pattern. fWhere. this which shows the shape in which the piece 'may be cut out, the cut edges approximating the edges of the tinted piece but not necessarily following such edges with any degree of accuracy; and kthus being adapted for very quick and easy cuttingout.

To Aindicate the way 1n which the pieces of the fabric are to be put together, the old practice has been generally to provide notches on the edges of the pattern pieces; a single notch on one to register with a single notch on another, a double notch registering with a double notch etc. Practical considerations have limited the manufacture to single, double and triple notches. .I have shown such notches on the edges of my By varying the character of the tlnt on' pattern p ieces and they are identified by a numeral and intended to match with a correspondingly numbered notch on, another piece of the garment, (or at another point on the same piece, such as the notches in the side section Fig. 1). Using printed numbers in this way I can distinguish an indefinite number vof pairs of matching points.

To indicate the grain line, I have in Figs. 7

l and 2, shown the title printed in the direction of the grain of the fabric with the opposite ends of an arrow forming a continuation of the direction at each end of the name. In Fig. 3 I-have shown the grain line more emphatically by a thin line extending the length of the piece, part of the line being in the form of a heavier arrow with the legend straight of goodsr applied thereto.

The margin outside of the pattern proper can be' advantageously used to pin the pattern piece on to the fabric, the two being then cut together. By fastening the pattern piece to the fabric outside` of the line which is to be cut, the paper and the fabric are held together better than with the old style of patterns which were pinned on the fabric at points within the edge, leaving a loose edge as the cutting guide.

Within the ieces of the material or at their edges tucls, plaits, gathers or the like have frequently been shown. These have been indicated also by signs and notches cut into the pattern pieces and understood only by reference to the printed directions on the label. According to my invention they may be indicated graphicaly wherever necessary and are made unmistakable by the printing of suitable words thereon.

All the indications above referred to, and many othersimpossible under the old system, can be applied according to my inven- Vtern piece as a stencil `by tion and result in an accuracy and clearness quite impossible with the old perforated system.A

Y At the same time I can save considerable expense and reduce the cost of the complete pattern as distributed by printing on the same sheet a label or envelop as indicated in the lower left hand part of Fig. 2. This is on such a small scale that I have merely indi tion of label and pattern.

i 4In some cases 1t is desirable to use a patwhich particular points can be marked on the fabric. It will be understood that perforations of this sort may be used to a greater or less extent in connection with myinvention, which substitutes printed lines or symbols for some or Y all of the old perforations which were used in only an informative or directional sense, not for stenciling through. l

Although I prefer to cut out the separate pattern pleces, as vshown in Fig. 3, yet they may also' be sold as printed together in roups on the necessary number of uncut gheets (Figs. 1 and Q or in suitable cases all on a single sheet. nd for some cases the selling of them grouped on sheets would be preferable as showin at once an arrangement of the pieces which can be economically cut from a fabric of a determined width corresponding to that of the sheets on which the pattern pieces are printed and can be applied to only some ofthe pieces of a complete pattern, other pieces being made in any usual or suitable way; as, for example, Where such other pieces do not call for the same degree of care'in manufacture or cannot be printed thereon the outline tobe followed inV cutting the fabric, and having a margin out- -side of said outline. f

2.. An article of commerce consisting cf a paper pattern Vfor a garment'comprising a number of pattern pieces having vprinted thereon the outline to befollow'ed 1n cutting,

the fabric and having a substantial margin entirely around the -outline`of each of said pieces. f

l3. An article of commerce consisting of a paper' pattern for. a garment comprising a number of pattern pieces having a margin and having a surface which is tinted to dis-4 tinguish the shape to be cut in the .fabric from the margin outside oflsuch shape.

V4. An article of commerce consisting of a paper pattern Ifor a garment comprising a number of separate pattern pieces having printed thereon the outline to be followed in cutting the fabric, and having a margin outside of said outline and tinted lso as to distinguish between the margin and the portion within' said outline.

5. An article of commerce consisting of a paper pattern for a garment comprising'a number of pattern pieces having printed indications for their use on one side, the paper being transparent so that such indications c may vbe .seen through the paper from the other side, the printedside of the paper having a margin and being tinted to distinguish between the margin and the portionfwlthin the margin.

In witness whereof, I have hereunto signed my name.

' FRANCIS HUTTER.

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