US1359636A - Method of making shoes - Google Patents

Method of making shoes Download PDF

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US1359636A
US1359636A US356426A US35642820A US1359636A US 1359636 A US1359636 A US 1359636A US 356426 A US356426 A US 356426A US 35642820 A US35642820 A US 35642820A US 1359636 A US1359636 A US 1359636A
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shoe
elle
counter
last
lining
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US356426A
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Fred E Toothaker
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United Shoe Machinery Corp
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United Shoe Machinery Corp
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B9/00Footwear characterised by the assembling of the individual parts
    • A43B9/08Turned footwear

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  • the peeem invention consists el ppzeneubhod of making melded eounte' wreed shoes of the@ tyg e in w-S/"heh9 re- Speetve ef how ehe heel peze me upper 17S attached to Hee Shoe9 the (Beumer is oceed in bhe Shoe m-5er @the Shoe me been removed @om she fleet Mees? the uppe he@ been attached Je ehe sole (eli 'ehe Way mound er@ pe; wey emued e@ es to leave the hee end.
  • a eprillgpressed 'loe-piece elle spring being of sufficient strength to prees ille counter
  • lllns erleriing a stretching action long/iilldinally ol ille slloe 1n elle lnanner inelcalzeol
  • ille lleel end oi elle lpolln is pressed into elle counter so as lo1 locate il properly angnlarly, Widfllwise"andlenglzllwise oi elle elloe.
  • lllllile Jelle counter is lso lleld il is laetened to elle shoe; and thereafter ⁇ elle llorln ie removed7 and ille slloe relasled and lill ielled. in ille usual or slliialole nlanner.
  • the upper and lining are 'ellen attached around elle -ioreparl ⁇ and pari oi elle silallll portion in any suilable manner as by e Seeed seam i9 as shown; or7 if desired, 'ille sewing may el;- lend enbirely eronnd ille eole. le illllsirated, however9 ille seam lelfminales adjacent elle lleel breast line, elle lleel portion oi' ille' appelll@ ⁇ lasied and attached lo *elle sole by laclrs 2l.
  • elle lleel poreioll may be' lelie open as' described in ille lielnling pending referred 'lo abova lin any evene,
  • This iol-ln comprises loloclr, elle lleel porlioll of' Wlliell llas ille ellape el?
  • olf elle ⁇ lorie may eoniacl; direelly willi eonnler, Wllaielfer Siretell l ellere may loe ill elle ripper being pernlllied 'lo laire place-Willman ille hindrance illal would laire piece were ille lining inierpoeecl llelnfeen elle lleel pollaion ol2 Jelle :lorie and elle opper.
  • a shanlr ⁇ piece l is then placed in the bottom olf the lshoe and fastened by tacks.
  • the heel seat may or may not be nailed. With ythe y illustrative shoe no such nailing is necessary since the nails 43? suliice. Thereafter theheel is attached and the usual finishing op'- erations performed.
  • each 'of them comprises as a step between the insertion of the first last and the insertion of the second last, the placing of the shoe with the molded counter loose in it upon an expansible form whichv locates the counter properly and thefastening of the counter ⁇ to the shoe While itl 1s held in proper location.
  • a Amethod. of making turned: shoes which. comprises assembling thev shoeupon a last,vsubsequently removing this last and inserting a second last, and, between the steps of removingl the shoe from the first last and inserting the second last, placing the shoe i-vithv molded counter loose therein upon an eizpansihle form and While it is thereon, tast ng nthe counter to the shoe.
  • a method ot' making' turned shoes which comprises assembling the shoe upon a last, subsequently removing this last and inserting a second last, and, between the steps ol removing the shoe 'from the first vlast and inserting the second last, placing the shoe with a molded counter loose therein vupon an' enpansible :torni and While it is thereon, nailing the countei1 to the sole ol the shoe..
  • a method oft making turned shoes which comprises placing an assembled upper and lining and a sole Wrong side out upon a last, attaching the upper and lining to sole, removing the shoe from the last and turning it right side out,placing the shoewith a molded counter loose therein upon a longitudinally expanding term With the heel end of the form in contact vvith the 'counter in such manner as to locate the counter properly in the shoe and hold itin proper location, lastening the counter to the'shoe and subsequently7 inserting a second last and finishing the shoe 5.
  • a method of maliing turned shoes which comprises placing an ,assembled upout is properly located and held in the shoe,
  • El method ot making turned shoes which comprises placing an assembled upper and lining and a sole Wrong side out A upon. a last, slitting and turning bach the rear portion oi" the lining,'attaching the upper and lining to the sole at least around the itorepart and into the shank, removing the shoe from the last and turning it right side out, placing the shoe with a molded counter ⁇ loose thereinV upon a stretching torna with the heel end ot the term in contact with the counted wherebgt7 the counter is properly located and held in the shoe, nailing the counter to the sole While so held and subsequenly inserting a second last and finishing the shoe.
  • Il method ot melting turned shoes which comprises placing anassemhled upper and lining and a sole wrong side out upon a last, slitting the lining at the sides ot* the shoe, attaching the upper and lining to thesole, pulling the last, turning the shoe right side out, pulling the heel portion ot the lining partly out oi the shoe, placing the shoe with a molded counter loose therein upon a twopart form the heel and toe portions ot which are movable apart to torce the counter and shoe into proper relative positions and so to hold them., nailing the counter to the snoe While the counter and shoe are so held and subsequently inserting a second last and completing the shoe.
  • A. method ot melting turned shoes which comprises placingan assembled upper and lining and a sole Wrong side out upon a last, slitting the lining at the sides ot the shoe, attaching the upper and lining to the sole, pulling the last, turning the shoe right side out, pulling the heel portion ot the lining partly outlet the shoe, placing the shoe With a molded counter loose therein upon a two-part torni, the heel and toe portions ot which areI movable apart to force the counter and shoe into proper relative positions and so to hold them, nailing the counter to the sole While the counter and shoe are so held and subsequently inserting a secon last and completing the shoe.
  • t method or making turned Yshoes which comprises placing an assembled upper and lining and a sole Wrong-side out upon a last, slitting and turning baclr the margin ot the rear portion ot the lining, attaching the upper and lining to the sole, the upper all the Way around the sole and the lining part wayY around, removing the shoe trom the last, turning the shoe, placing a 'molded counter upon a :to-rm comprising a heel portion shaped substantially like the heel portion oit a last and a toe portion in the torni eta spring-pressed toe piece, placing the shoe on the term in such manner that the inside ot the heel portion ot the upper is in contact with the counter, the spring serving to hold the counter rirmly against the upper and to locate the counter and shoe in proper relative position, nailing the molded coun ter to the sole and suhseduently inserting a second last and completing the shoe.
  • l. l method ot melting turned 'shoes which comprises placing an assembled upper and lining and a sole Wrong side out upon a last, slitting and turning baclr the margin 4ot the rear portion the lining, attaching the upper and llining to the sole, the upper all 4the Way around the sole and the lining part Way around, removing the shoe trom ⁇ the last, turning the shoe. placing an assem-v bled molded counter and tuclr upon a torm comprising a heel portion shaped substantially lilre the heel portion.

Description

F. E. TUOTHAKER..
METHOD 0F MAKING SHOES.
APPLICATION FILED FEB. 5, Iszo.
Patented Nov. 23, 1920.
'eight eide om es MARN epplieeftem mec? EPeToX-uer'y '5, wim. gefiel Fie.
if@ @il wwm i? may eomem:
e lmew that L lippen E. TOOTHAKEL' eezen ez the United Simues esding et Swampsee'ib, im the (county of Essex State of esechusezmts, have mveefeed zen mpmvemens in Mehede e'f Making Shoes, 61E which the following deecpben, in. cenneien with 'ghe eceempenyng deep@ ings, ie Specification, like fefel'enee'eheqe tee en de fhre'wimgs edeeamg Mie in the sev'eml lggmee Thie imvemeie eees 1510 the memufeeime of shoes en@ mme pepteulely 'man im ppm/ed mehed of making 'ftumed shoes.
En the menufeeoue @il teme@ sheeewb commen te e use @if eeumsee which. have been ppevemey mowed Subebbentiey e@ nal shape., eueh cmm'ubers being use@ mop only in fumed shoe@ mede with wher@ epe commonly celledeeve heel "7 puit also in upped shoes mailed V"eee seats.
ne uppe' le sewed A before-the eaoe is eemmeen ef emes ehe upper 'te pmt enc?. shank. pe lne'veg need which eeeues me e ed@ Thi@ befe'fe the ehe@ Specicecon of .'Letzes Patent.
peel being;
New, 23.,
il@ hhe lining; is wieken @efe @if es se; mefzb in ehe Hempg; paens.
The peeem invention consists el ppzeneubhod of making melded eounte' wreed shoes of the@ tyg e in w-S/"heh9 re- Speetve ef how ehe heel peze me upper 17S attached to Hee Shoe9 the (Beumer is oceed in bhe Shoe m-5er @the Shoe me been removed @om she fleet Mees? the uppe he@ been attached Je ehe sole (eli 'ehe Way mound er@ pe; wey emued e@ es to leave the hee end. of the shee open es the cese be) the shoe turned fighi; side eut eind, Genertel ineered and leetemd 1n proper pesi'iem. EL is ie @the meper 11oeetin' of @he eeupcee in efxfe ein?. @he
comme?, *aux* mweely, ley e shank med mM-gm of the iining? fee@ En .place and then reeeg ehe shoe Le e? n plececue the fellesbpp; 0pelefgiee. :mein ehe 'insemton o the met, the @ut and nailing of 'the heel eem is depended upon $0 10eme ehe commer end esfuem permanently in pz'ope peefon. t eqmemy happens, hewevee, 'hm the eeepae ie imprepey loeeed by ms pre eedufe either emfguleljy 01* wdehwee, and ihm, the eee? of 'he comme? ie not 'p'.i'eeeef my epgeimezb'he insidie of 'he he el? the uppeae. W'h eegeed e@ msplaeemep; ii; ehe'uld be fememb Meer. me eee'on ef lzhe eenen Hemp; ime**enes between fue eoumee elle?. Lthe heet popten of dee ieee a. e lie im@ being usuel@ of feblenl is pmmeey eem-eitretchebe, eine reeuf, a endl Mmes@ ef the heel eed, m'abhe erpgejf Laken by ehe Hemp; end tem? iin@ me9 'the comme? is me@ feed irl shape lo ille lleel portion ol a last, and
a eprillgpressed 'loe-piece elle spring; being of sufficient strength to prees ille counter By lllns erleriing a stretching action long/iilldinally ol ille slloe 1n elle lnanner inelcalzeol, ille lleel end oi elle lpolln is pressed into elle counter so as lo1 locate il properly angnlarly, Widfllwise"andlenglzllwise oi elle elloe. lllllile Jelle counter is lso lleld il is laetened to elle shoe; and thereafter `elle llorln ie removed7 and ille slloe relasled and lill ielled. in ille usual or slliialole nlanner.
clearly a. parliclilar procedere 'will new loe deee1riloed,llol elle lllelllofl ae will appear in *alle course oline eleecri.pilonv is nel lilniied lao ille particular procedere Wlliell llos been illllelsraled. 'f
non 'lo clrawingal .A ,y i lliggnre l @lione a lnolded collnler llavinp; alzlaclled 'lo ile irliznrned lnelnlaer known to elle trade a inclrlg lligg, Q, :allows a elloe Wrongl eide one o iirei lael9 elle lorepan' leaning been l and *elle lleel end laeled;
Fig: 3 snows lille ello-e righi: side olli and localed upon elle elrelelling liornfl, elle conn- 'lel' being in place and elle lleel portion oi' elle lining pulled one ol elle Way. lnillie gure 'there is aleo ellown pari ol a nailing machine which may loe need lo 'festen elle eolllllel" in' place; Y
Fig. l relaeled, and
5 is a delail perspeclive oi a portion ol elle elloe Showing nloie perli'clllarly ille ol elle elloe earried ee follows:
c r il lining; and a enilsnole eole l ce placed Wrong; eid-e elle llpon i7.. lile pnllingpoifor e5 lielree ae inlllai9 elle rmly against elle lleel portion ol elle upper.
ln order lo sel loriill elle invention more.
accompanying' 'a orne 23 and lll'lell pla shows elle slloe aller'il' llas been localion olf ille nails Wlliell lasten lille eonnf' forno ol? lnoldeol connier lining;- being elle and elle lleel portion pulled down as shown in Fig'. 2. The upper and lining are 'ellen attached around elle -ioreparl` and pari oi elle silallll portion in any suilable manner as by e Seeed seam i9 as shown; or7 if desired, 'ille sewing may el;- lend enbirely eronnd ille eole. le illllsirated, however9 ille seam lelfminales adjacent elle lleel breast line, elle lleel portion oi' ille' appel nein@` lasied and attached lo *elle sole by laclrs 2l. instead of serving all elle "way around ille Sole or of sewing around elle lorepart and ellanll and Aellen leaning the lleel portion as elloern, elle lleel poreioll may be' lelie open as' described in ille lielnling paient referred 'lo abova lin any evene,
--lloefevelg elle liningis elii; and turned loacll as sllown. Allier elle lelnpol'ary lasting; iaolle (not shown) llave been removed and elle sealn trimmed? lllesiloe is pulled irorgl elle llrel last and inlined righi side olli.
The lleel pollzion of elle lining; ie non' polled pallier-ily one el' elle elaoe 4so as lo perlnil; elle counter to loe inserted, Coni/ein insertion may loe 'accomplished lay planing elle connlner npoll lille lleel end oliI ein@1 elle elloe upon elle lerne. This iol-ln comprises loloclr, elle lleel porlioll of' Wlliell llas ille ellape el? laat, and a loe peellion ll'lli'cll eol'leiete ol loe-piene piloted @Y lo a rod Q) wllicll ie slidallleina elle loloell bill lleld 'from angular movement ily a pill 3l llelfl by elle lllocll and locatie-clin a groove 33 in elle rod. lll cornparaliveljlr still spring)j 35 "ellioll encir cles ille lrollv loeers al; one end against ille blocle end al; ille oiller end againsi ille loepiece9 ii; loeing necessary lo compress ellis spring1 'lo el elle elloe upon ille form. illy subjeelinp; elle elloe., Willi ille connlerfloose in il, lo elle expanding action of ille fiorini, ille eline ie elllajec'led io a slreielling aclion, and 'elle rear. end el elle counier pressed iirnlly against 'elle inside of lille lleel portion of elle lippen elle lining 13 ai aelle llleel porlion 'ille elloe olli oiB ille Way so illai e lleel end. olf elle `lorie may eoniacl; direelly willi eonnler, Wllaielfer Siretell l ellere may loe ill elle ripper being pernlllied 'lo laire place-Willman ille hindrance illal would laire piece were ille lining inierpoeecl llelnfeen elle lleel pollaion ol2 Jelle :lorie and elle opper. ll: ille saine linie counter ie properljy'loeaied laoizll Widlllwiee end ange Wirll reepecl'; 'lo elle opper wllile illes@v pel enloelanlially `ille Vpoei'liolle llllcll llley sllonld eeen in. ille l'lnielled one,
l propel? poelm ll lo lienSi lille nel-ll elloe., lli? elle Y fl ll e1 ie open ille lleel perllorl elle upper may now loe leeied' over elle eonnler e l laclrerl in piecej and lillererifle@a ed elle oole andleol'n. loe lillilll e l shoe like that illustrated in the drawings or with a shoe having a sevved heel seat, in'
dle 37 a blccli 3d driver ell and a heel rest d3. ln the shoe and with the machine illustrated, litignails el?" pass 'through the 9 anu may or may not pass through the inturned tlangeoi the counter proper. should be .understood that neither the particular counter usednor the particular manner olf attaching it to the yshoe Whether.4 lasting, nailing, both lasting and nailing or otherivise is immaterial so lar as the broader aspects ci the invention are conce-fineda llter'the counter been property located and fastened to the shoe, the man 'lao ture ci the shoe may be completed in any known manner..` rlhe illustrated slice is removed :trom the torni, the heel portion ol the lining put into place with its lower. margin inturned and overlying the margin oit the tuck 9. A shanlr` piece l is then placed in the bottom olf the lshoe and fastened by tacks. Il socli: lining (not shown) may then be cemented or otherwise fastened on the' bottom'ol the inside of the shoe, such soch lso after Which the second last 4f? is inserted and the shoe beaten out. At this time, depending upon how the counter Was attached to the shoe While on the form 23, the heel seat may or may not be nailed. With ythe y illustrative shoe no such nailing is necessary since the nails 43? suliice. Thereafter theheel is attached and the usual finishing op'- erations performed.
Although several variations ol possible procedure have been indicated above, it is to be noted that each 'of them comprises as a step between the insertion of the first last and the insertion of the second last, the placing of the shoe with the molded counter loose in it upon an expansible form whichv locates the counter properly and thefastening of the counter` to the shoe While itl 1s held in proper location.
Having' thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States-is: n
l. A Amethod. of making turned: shoes which. comprises assembling thev shoeupon a last,vsubsequently removing this last and inserting a second last, and, between the steps of removingl the shoe from the first last and inserting the second last, placing the shoe i-vithv molded counter loose therein upon an eizpansihle form and While it is thereon, tast ng nthe counter to the shoe.
il. l or i ng turned shoes A :mi :l
'which comprises assembling the shoe upon a last, subsequently removing this last and inserting a second last, and, hetvveen the steps oir' removing the shoe Jfrom the First last and inserting the second last, placing the shoe with a molded counter loose therein upon an enpansible form and While it is thereon, nailing the counter to the shoe.
8. A method ot' making' turned shoes which comprises assembling the shoe upon a last, subsequently removing this last and inserting a second last, and, between the steps ol removing the shoe 'from the first vlast and inserting the second last, placing the shoe with a molded counter loose therein vupon an' enpansible :torni and While it is thereon, nailing the countei1 to the sole ol the shoe..
a method oft making turned shoes which comprises placing an assembled upper and lining and a sole Wrong side out upon a last, attaching the upper and lining to sole, removing the shoe from the last and turning it right side out,placing the shoewith a molded counter loose therein upon a longitudinally expanding term With the heel end of the form in contact vvith the 'counter in such manner as to locate the counter properly in the shoe and hold itin proper location, lastening the counter to the'shoe and subsequently7 inserting a second last and finishing the shoe 5. A method of making turned shoes vvhich'comprises placing an assembled up-- the heel end of the form in contact .With the counter in such manner as 'tolocate the counter properly in the shoe and hold it in proper location, nailing the counter to vthe` sole and subsequently insertingv a second last and finishing the shoe.
G. A, method of making turned shoes yupon a longitudinally expanding form With,
which comprises lplacing' an assembled upper and lining and a sole Wrong side out 'upon a last; slitting and turning hach the rear portion of the lining, attaching the upper and lining to athe sole least around 4the forepart and linto/the shanlt, removing the shoe from the last and turning vit right side out, p acing4 the shoe with" a molded counter loose therein upon a stretching :torni With -the heel end of the form i'n Acontact with the counter whereby the counter is properly located and held in the shoe, tastening the counter to the shoe While so held and subsequently inserting a second last and 'finishing the shoe.
l'. A method of maliing turned shoes which comprises placing an ,assembled upout is properly located and held in the shoe,
nailing the counter Ato the shoe While soheld and subsequently inserting a second last and nnishing the shoe.
8. El method ot making turned shoes which comprises placing an assembled upper and lining and a sole Wrong side out A upon. a last, slitting and turning bach the rear portion oi" the lining,'attaching the upper and lining to the sole at least around the itorepart and into the shank, removing the shoe from the last and turning it right side out, placing the shoe with a molded counter` loose thereinV upon a stretching torna with the heel end ot the term in contact with the counted wherebgt7 the counter is properly located and held in the shoe, nailing the counter to the sole While so held and subsequenly inserting a second last and finishing the shoe. p
9. lit method of malring turned shoes Which comprises placing an assembled upper and lining and a sole Wrong side out upon a last, slitting the lining at the sides oit the shoe, attaching the upper and lining to the sole., pulling the last, turning the shoe right side out, pulling the heel portion olf the lining partly out ot the shoe, placing the shoe with a molded counter loose therein upon a two-part `torm the heel and toe portions ot which are movable apart to torce the counter and shoe into proper relative positions and so to hold them, ltastening the counter to the shoe while the counter and shoe are so held and subsequently inserting a second last and completing the shoe.
l0. Il method ot melting turned shoes which comprises placing anassemhled upper and lining and a sole wrong side out upon a last, slitting the lining at the sides ot* the shoe, attaching the upper and lining to thesole, pulling the last, turning the shoe right side out, pulling the heel portion ot the lining partly out oi the shoe, placing the shoe with a molded counter loose therein upon a twopart form the heel and toe portions ot which are movable apart to torce the counter and shoe into proper relative positions and so to hold them., nailing the counter to the snoe While the counter and shoe are so held and subsequently inserting a second last and completing the shoe.
ll. A. method ot melting turned shoes which comprises placingan assembled upper and lining and a sole Wrong side out upon a last, slitting the lining at the sides ot the shoe, attaching the upper and lining to the sole, pulling the last, turning the shoe right side out, pulling the heel portion ot the lining partly outlet the shoe, placing the shoe With a molded counter loose therein upon a two-part torni, the heel and toe portions ot which areI movable apart to force the counter and shoe into proper relative positions and so to hold them, nailing the counter to the sole While the counter and shoe are so held and subsequently inserting a secon last and completing the shoe.
l2. t method or" making turned Yshoes which comprises placing an assembled upper and lining and a sole Wrong-side out upon a last, slitting and turning baclr the margin ot the rear portion ot the lining, attaching the upper and lining to the sole, the upper all the Way around the sole and the lining part wayY around, removing the shoe trom the last, turning the shoe, placing a 'molded counter upon a :to-rm comprising a heel portion shaped substantially like the heel portion oit a last and a toe portion in the torni eta spring-pressed toe piece, placing the shoe on the term in such manner that the inside ot the heel portion ot the upper is in contact with the counter, the spring serving to hold the counter rirmly against the upper and to locate the counter and shoe in proper relative position, nailing the molded coun ter to the sole and suhseduently inserting a second last and completing the shoe.
l. l method ot melting turned 'shoes which comprises placing an assembled upper and lining and a sole Wrong side out upon a last, slitting and turning baclr the margin 4ot the rear portion the lining, attaching the upper and llining to the sole, the upper all 4the Way around the sole and the lining part Way around, removing the shoe trom` the last, turning the shoe. placing an assem-v bled molded counter and tuclr upon a torm comprising a heel portion shaped substantially lilre the heel portion. ot' a last and a toe portion in the form oi a spring-pressed toe piece, placing the shoe on the 'form in such manner that the inside ot the heel portion ol the upper is in contact with the counter, the spring serving to hold the counter firmly against the upper and to locate the counter llil and shoe in proper relative position, nailing the counter and tuclr to the sole and subsequently inserting a second last and completing the shoe.
ln testimony Whereo1 l have signed Amy name to this specification.
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