US1278683A - Garment-pattern-making guide. - Google Patents

Description

H. J. KRAMER.

"GARMENT PATTERN MAKING GUIDE.

APPLICATION FILED AuG.9.1a15. RENEWED MAR. 14.1918.

Lzm fiwc Patented Sept. 10,191&

2 SHEETS-SHEET I.

Harry J. Kramer YWWJIW Afl'yg R5 co PNOI'O-LITHQ, WASMINnmN. n. c.

H. J. KRAMER. GARMENT PATTERN MAKING GUIDE.

APPLICATION FILED A JG.9, I915- RENEWED MAR. I4 I918.

PatentedSept.10,1918.

192789683 SHEET HE T I Harry J. Kramer byw kw Aw s 25 \1 the s'leeveis laid out by measurements based a hole part-of a sleevepattern draft'edout;

illustrate/it as it w'ould -'bemused-in con- 'HARRY KRAMER} F d bo t MASQ FUQJTS- GABMENT- PATTERN MAKlNG GUIDE.

mate." i 1 V Specification of Letters Patent. Patented Sept;'1(), 1918.

Application filed August 5, 1515, Serial No 44,405. Renewed. March 14,1918. Seria1.No..222,518.

- To all 05mm -Be it'known that I, HARRY J. KRAMER, a citizen of the United States,-residing at Boston, "county 'of'Sufi'olk, State of Massachus'etts,-hzwe invented an Improvement in Garment-Pattern-Making Guides, of which the following deseription, in connection with the accompanying-drawing, is a specifica tionglike characters, on the drawing representinglike-parts.

This invention has for its object to pro- Vide-anovel pattern-making guide ortemplet-bywhieh garment patterns may be easily-and readily laid out. I ...My improved pattern-making guide is especially designed for use in connection with those-systemsof drafting garment patternsin which both-the back and front shoulder lines and "thearmhole of the pattern are laid -out and determined from angularmeasurements based on the circumfer 'en-tial measure-of the armhole of the person for Whom the pattern is beingmade, and the shape of-"the neck lines is determined by the neck measurements of :said person, and

on.the armhole measurez I .7 4

While 'the' invention :is 1 applicable for use in .connection with vany such system of draftingvpatterns, I-have chosen herein to nection with-themethod .of drafting garment.patterns disclosed in .my Patent No. 1,098,736,. dated June 2, 1914..

-In the drawings, Figure .1 is a'diagram "a. garment pattern drafted out Fig.2. 2 is :axview.v showingmy' improved pattermmaking. guidean a. 4

- v:1Ti-g;3 is a diagram view showing .the arm- ..xFigetshows how. myimprovedguide is used to"lay..out.a garment pattern; ,v Fig/Y5 shows. howmy. .improved guide is used to lay out a sleeve pattern... I .f

, In order togiveanunderstanding of my -invention,rit will be necessary'first to refer briefly .toI the system. of drafting. garment .patternswhi'ch is describedand claimed in my.saidabove-mentionedpatent. Fig. 1 shows in diagram a garment pattern. drafted in. accordance withysaid system,

and thisrpattern'iis. made by first taking the measuremeIrtsDf the armholev of; thejperson for Whomthe-garmeht is, to be made, and thenilayingeofllaom. the base .illixgllicle line 1 .42 two points 3f'and4 apart .equalto \onequarter of the armhole measure, and. then layingoff another point 5. at a distance .fromfthe pointsdalso equalnto one-quarter ofthe' armhole measure. The

point Z.is-then laid often the base or guide lineata distancewfrom the-point 3 equal to two-thirds of-thearmhole measure.

The front shoulder-line 5.-.6 is drawn from .the. point. 5 .at. an angle 015.3% and the rear shoulder line-7&8 is drawnfromthe point7-atanangleof 17.9.. .The point-11 is then determinedv by measuring on the base line. from theipoint 3. a. distance ,equal to one-third of the armhole measurement, and

from the poi'ntllthe line 1l.-12 isidrawn at h an angle of l3g-;from the base line, and the line-13 is then drawn fromthepoint l at an angle of.27' from the baseline. .The, 0011- tour of the armhole is thendrawn; in by first drawing the arc.3 9 from. the point 7 ,as a

center, then-drawing the: arc .'312 fromthe point llas a .center,fldrawing the are 12-13 fromxthe' point :14 as, a center, and then drawing a .se'mi-circle..134 from, the central point 15. of the line4+13. The point 10 on the shouldenline 5 .6 is determined, by drawing a line from the point 4 atan angle 'of,5.6rto thebase line. The point for the armhole noteh'lS is determinedbydrawing from the point. 1.5a line at an angle of63 .tothe linear-13.. I V

.f822 is the backline of the pattern which is. secured. by 1 drawing; the, line 1920 through the point 5 at an angle of7 tothe 23 fromthe point 211.t.0 ,determinethe point .23.. .Tl1e\;pointw6.-is. then :determined by measuring from the point 10 a distance equal U .to the. distance 9+8. and the bust i isdrawn'lthroughthe points 6 and23.

r The neck lines ofthapatternare secured by .draWi11g1aL1ine5l-59 th toughthe poi (Sta en, angl t the ine 5.719 -l 1e1.;. 9 :fih e tangle. between the ,lineSi fir.9.,. dc8 r2a 399 thenlayi gfifisq .t is.l ne.fiTQ ii-IheQpeint 6 a a stan' eflequal. t9 meant ,Qfialih llQk measure, thereby, determiningthe p oint 53. 1Erom.the.p .I1t.53,' theline ii-412%??? .1

at right angles to the line 51-59 and the oint 54 where this line meets the line 6-23 is the point where the neck curve begins. The point 55 is then determined by laying off on the line 6-23 from the point 54 a distance equal to one-sixth of the neck measure and then a distance is laid OK on the line 51-59 from the point 6 equal to the distance between 6 and 55, to determine the point 57. The line 55-56 is then drawn through the points 57-55 and the are 54-56 is struck from the point 55 as a center and the are 56-58 is struck from the point 57 as a center. The are 5458 thus determined is the true curve for the neck line and the portion 52-58 of the curve is then transferred to the other neck section to produce the neck curve 48-49.

Fig. 3 shows the armhole end of a sleeve patterndrafted by a system based on angular and circumferential measurements. This is done by first drawing a base line 31-32 and then drawing a line 33-34 from the base line at an angle of 15 thereto. A distance 33-35 is then laid off on this line 33-34 equal to one-quarter the armhole measure, and the line 36-37 is drawn through the point 35 at an angle of 75 to line 38-43 is then drawn at an angle of 63 to the base line 31-32 and of a length equal to the radius of the armhole arc 13-4, in Fig. 1. The line 43-44 is then drawn from point 43 at an angle of 54 to the line 38-43 and the guide line 33-45 is drawn at right angles to the base line 31-32. The are 38-44-45 is drawn from the point 43 as a center. The line 43-38 is the center line of the armhole and corresponds to the line 16-17 in Fig. 1, and the point 44 corresponds to the armhole notch 18 in Fig. 1. The curved line 45-4438-39 gives the under curve for the sleeve and the curved line 96-37-39 gives the upper curve for the sleeve, the point 96 being determined by the intersection of the curve 33, 37 with the curve 45, 44. 1

My present invention aims to provide a novel pattern makin guide by which a pattern can be produce without making these various angular and circumferential measurements as above set forth. A device embodying my invention is shown in Fig. 2 and'consists of a plate 71 having the shape of an armhole contour as outlined in Fig. 1.

This plate is provided on its edge with notches corresponding to the positions of the lines necessary for producing the pat- Said plate is also provided'witha, peripheral notch 201 which forms with the notch 200 means for determining the direction of the cross back line 19-20, an aperture 150 at a position corresponding to that of the point 15 in the pattern which is thecenter of the arc 4-13, and the T shaped notch 101 corresponding to the junction of the base line 1-2 and the center line 16-17 of the diagram Fig. 1, the arms of the notch having directions corresponding to the directions of the base line 1-2 and the line 16-17 of the pattern.

The plate 71 is also formed at its upper edge with the points 90 and 100 corresponding to the points 9 and 10 of the pattern, and it is formed with the edge 52 at the same angle as the shoulder line 6-10 of the pattern, and with the edge 55 having the same angle as the shoulder line 8-9 of the pattern, said plate being provided with the notch 54 in line with the edge 55. The guide is also provided with a notch 102 corresponding to the point 95 on the center line 16-17.

The guide is also provided-with an aperture 80 which is at a distance from the'aperture 150 equal to the radius of the are 33-41 on the sleeve pattern and with the suitable peripheral indicating marks which are a distance apart equal to either the distance from the point.44 t o the point '36 orthe distance from the point 38 to the point 36 on the sleeve pattern. In the present embodiment of the invention the distance between the points 44 and 36 of the pattern happens to be the same as between the notch 201 and the end 100 on the plate 71 so that I can use this notch and end 100 as such indicating marks. The guide is also provided with indicating marks measuring the distance between the points 34 and 39 on the sleeve pattern and in the particular construction herein illustrated this distance happens to be the same as that between the notches200 and 130 so that I can use these notches for such indicating marks.

I will also preferably form on the periphery ofthe plate 71 a measure equal to the radius of the are 33-41 and in the particular construction shown this happens to be the distance between the notch 40 and the end 100.

My improved pattern making guide is also formed with one curved slot 63 terminating at one end in a notch or slot 64 and at the other end at the notch 99 and one end in a notch or slot 66 and at the other end at the notch 99. The slot 63 is designed for giving the outline of the neck for the front part of the pattern and the slot 65 is for giving the neck outline for the rear part of the pattern. The slot 63 is so cut that the two walls 66 and 67 thereof will give the correct outline for different sizes for the front part of the neck, and similarly the slot 65 is so formed that the opposite walls 68 and 69 will give the outline for corresponding sizes for the back of the neck.

In using the device for producing a garment pattern, a base line 1-2 is first drawn on the paper from which the pattern is to be cut, and then the guide is placed on the paper with the notches 30 and 40 on the base line and the outline of the templet is drawn on the paper. The notches 200, 130, 102, 180, 201, 54 and 101 are then marked on the paper by inserting a pencil point through the notches.

If it is desired to produce a pattern with the shoulder shortened at the sleeve end, a pin is inserted through the center hole 150 and the plate is turned about the pivot thus formed first in one direction and then the other and the lines a and b are drawn in. The guide is then shifted along the base line while maintaining the notches 30 and 40 in alinement with the 'base line and a mark is made on the paper at the bottom of the guide in its new location. The guide is then removed from the paper leaving the outline on the paper shown in full lines Fig- 4, from which all the outlines of the pat tern can be drawn, as indicated in dotted lines Fig. 4. For instance, by extending theline 520 formed by the edge 52 of the guide, the shoulder line 6-10 can be produced, and. by extending the line 550 produced by the edge 55 through the notch mark 540 pro-- duced by the notch 54, the shoulder line 8-9 will result. The bust line 21-23 is: drawn through the two marks 1020 made by the lower end of the plate in its two posi-- tions, and the mark 1800 roduced by the notch 180 gives the point for the armhole notch. By drawing lines through the notch marks 2010 and 2000 formed by the notches 201 and 200 the cross back line 20-19 will be produced and then by measuring off onehalf of the back measure on this cross back line 19-20 from the armhole the point 19 is determined. The back line 8-22 is drawn. in at right angles to the cross back line 19-20 through the point 19, thus determining the point 8, as above described. The point 6 is then determined by measuring a distance from the point 10 equal to the length 8-9, and the front line 6-23 is drawn from the point 6 through a point 23 on the bust line that is determined by meas-- uring on said bust line from the back line 8-22 one-half of the bust measure of the person for whom the pattern is being made. The center line 16-17 is drawn through the notch marks 1010 and 1020.

After the pattern has been drawn, as shown in Fig. 4, the guide is taken and placed first on the pattern, as shown in dotted lines Fig. 4, so that the outside Walls of the notches 64 and 70 aline With the front line 6-23 of the pattern and the notch 99 is in line with the shoulder line. The neck outline is then drawn by a pencil, using either the wall 66 or the wall 67 of the slot 63 as the guide, depending on the size of the neck desired. The guide is then shifted into the other dotted line position Fig. 4 and placed so that the walls of the notches 70 and 66 are in alinement with the back line 8-22 and the notch 99 is over the shoulder line. When the guide is thus positioned the outline for the back part of the neck is drawn by inserting a pencil in the slot 65 and guiding the pencil by either the wall 68 or wall 69, depending on the size of the neck desired.

The mark 1300 produced by the notch 130 gives the point for the division between the back and the side gore if the pattern is made with a side gore.

For laying out a sleeve, I proceed as shown in Fig. 5, that is, I first lay off a base line 31-32 on the paper and then place the device so that the notches 102 and 180 touch the base line, as shown in Fig. 5, and outline the peripheral portion between the notches 102 and 40. The notches 102 and 180 determine the points 38 and 44 of the pattern. I then lay off on the base line from the point 44 the proper distance as measured on the plate to determine the point 36. In this particular templet this is the distance between the notch 201 and the end 100 of the templet. The semi-circle 33-37-39-41 is then struck from the point 36 as a center by placing a pin through either the aperture 150 or the aperture 80 and on the center point 36 and inserting a pencil point through the other aperture and using the plate as a compass.

The point 39 is then determined by measuring from the point 41 a distance equal to the radius of the arc 33-41 and this may be accomplished either by using the plate as a compass, as above described, or by using the measure laid off on the guide for this distance, which in the illustrated device happens to be the distance between the notch 40 and end 100. After the point 39 is determined, the line 38-39 is drawn and the point 42 is located by laying ofl on the line 38-39 from the point 39 the proper distance :as' given by the measure provided on the guide, which happens to be the distance between the notches 200 and 130. The curve 39-42-38 is then drawn in, thus completin the armhole end of the sleeve pattern.

y pattern-making guide isprovided on its lower edge with the scale 165 which is preferably laid off in degrees, and is also provided with a center mark 176. The advantage of this is that the device can be used as a protractor and for a guide in producing the lines a and b at equal distances from the center, and for drawing lines other than 1617 from the armhole on which to divide the pattern.

It will be noted that the line on the plate connecting the notches 40 and 30 is perpendicular to the line connecting the notches 102 and 17 6. This construction hasthe advantage that the notches 40, 30, 176 and 102 can be used for drawing lines at right angles to each other in drafting a pattern.

It may be understood that there will be a guide for each size of armhole, so that in laying out a pattern the guide corresponding to the circumferential measure of the armhole of the pattern and to the class of garment to be produced will be used.

l/Vhile I have shown herein a particular guide made in accordance with my invention yet I desire to state that my invention .may be embodied in guides of other shapes and with the various guiding notches and indicating marks differently arranged to correspond with different classes of garments.

I claim:

1. A pattern-making guide for laying out garment patterns having a shape such that a portion of the exterior contour thereof corresponds inshape and size tothat of the complete armhole of a pattern, said guide having direction-determining means for determining the direction and position ofthose lines of a pattern of which the armhole outline as defined by said portion of the peripheral contour of the guide is a part which cross or extend from the armhole outline,

whereby the armhole outline of said pattern can be produced by simply placing the guide on a sheet of paper and tracing around said portion of the periphery of the guide, and

the direction and position of said lines relative to the armhole outline can be determined directly from the guide.

2. A pattern-making guide for laying out garment patterns having a shape such that a portion of the exterior contour thereof corresponds in shape and size to that of the complete armhole of a pattern, said guide having direction-determining means for determining the direction of the base or guide line, cross back line, shoulder lines and center line of a pattern of which the armhole outline as defined by said portion of the peripheral contour of the guide is a part, whereby the armhole outline of said pattern can be produced simply by placing the guide on a piece of paper and tracing around said portionof the periphery of the guide and the direction and position of said base or guide line, cross back line, shoulder lines and amass center line relative'to the armhole outline can be determined directly fromtheguide.

3. A pattern-making guide for laying out garmentpatterns having a fixedshape and a portion of the exterior contour of which corresponds in shape and size to that of the complete armhole of a pattern, said guide having shoulder-points-determining means for determining the position and direction of the shoulder points of a pattern of which the armhole outline as defined by said portion of the peripheral contour of the guide is a part, whereby the outline of the armhole of said pattern can be produced simply by laying the guide on a sheet of vpaper and tracing around said portion of the periphery of the guide and the position of the shoulder points relative to said armhole outline can be marked on the paper directly from the guide.

4. A pattern-making guide for laying out garment patterns having a fixed shape and a portion of the exterior-contour of which corresponds in shape and size to that of the complete armhole of a pattern, said guide having shoulder'line determining means for determining the position and direction of the shoulder lines of a pattern of which the armhole outline as defined by saidportion of the peripheralcontour of the guide is a part, whereby the armhole outline of said pattern can .be produced simply by laying the guideon a sheet of paper and tracing around said portion of the periphery of the guide and the direction. and position of the shoulder lines of said pattern relative to the armhole outline can be determined directly from the guide.

5. A pattern-making guide for laying out garment patterns having a fixed shape and a portion of the exterior contour of which corresponds in shape and size to that'of the complete armhole of a pattern, said guide having direction-determining means for determining the direction and position. of the shoulder lines of a pattern of which the armhole outline as defined by said portion of the peripheral contour of the guide is a part, whereby the armhole outline of said pattern can be produced simply by laying the guide on a sheet of paper and tracing around said portion of the periphery of the guide and the direction and position of the shoulder lines relative to the armhole outline can be determined directly from the guide, said guide being provided with a curved slot havinga contouricorresponding to that of the complete neck-line of said pattern and shoulder-line determining means and also having guiding means for determining the position and direction relative to the neck line and shoulder line of. those lines of a pattern which extend from the neck line.

6. A pattern-making guide for laying out garment patterns having a shape such that a portion of the exterior contour thereof corresponds in shape and size to that of the complete armhole of the pattern, said guide having direction-determining means for determining the direction of the shoulder lines of a pattern of which the armhole outline as defined by said portion of the peripheral contour of the guide is a part, whereby the complete armhole outline of said pattern can be produced simply by laying said guide on a sheet of paper and tracing around said portion of the periphery of the guide and the direction and position of the shoulder lines relative to the armhole outline can be determined directly from the guide while it is positioned on the paper, said guide being provided with a curved slot having a contour corresponding to the complete neck line of said pattern and having guiding means associated with said curved slot for determining the position and direction of the shoulder lines relative to the neck line.

7. A pattern-making guide for laying out garment patterns having a fixed shape and a portion of the exterior contour of which corresponds in shape and size to that of the complete armhole of the pattern, said guidehaving apertures spaced apart a distance equal to the radius of the upper curve at the armhole end of the sleeve pattern, whereby said apertures of the guide may be used to draw said curve.

8. A pattern-making guide for laying out garment patterns having a fixed shape and a portion of the exterior contour of which corresponds in shape and size to that of the complete armhole of a pattern, whereby said armhole outline can be drawn by tracing around said portion of the periphery of said guide, said guide being provided with indicating means for indicating the position on said armhole outline of certain connecting points and also having indicating marks to indicate the corresponding points on the armhole end of a sleeve pattern for said garment pattern.

9. A pattern-making guide for laying out garment patterns having a fixed shape and a portion of the exterior contour of which corresponds in shape and size to that of the complete armhole of a pattern, the lower edge being provided with a protractor scale, said guide being also provided with an aperture through which an implement may be inserted to form a pivot about which the guide may be swung in opposite directions to provide for varying the length of the shoulders at the armhole end and determining the position relative to the armhole outline of the line for dividing the pattern.

10. A pattern-making guide for laying out garment patterns having a general oval shape and presenting an exterior contour corresponding to the shape of the armhole of the pattern whereby said armhole outline may be drawn by tracing around the periphery of the guide, said guide being provided with a curved slot having a contour corresponding to that of the front neck line of the pattern and having positioning means for positioning said guide properly relative to the front line and front shoulder line of the pattern to produce the front neck line.

11. A pattern-making guide for laying out garment patterns having a general oval shape and presenting an exterior contour corresponding to the shape of the armhole of the pattern whereby said armhole outline may be drawn by tracing around the periphery of the guide, said guide being provided with a curved slot having a contour corresponding to that of the back neck line of the pattern and having guiding means for positioning said guide properly relative to the back shoulder line and back line of the pattern to produce correctly the back neck line.

12. A pattern-making guide for laying out garment patterns having a fixed shape and a portion of the exterior contour of which corresponds in shape and size to that of the complete armhole of a pattern, whereby said armhole outline can be drawn by tracing around the periphery of the guide, said templet being provided with one line extending from one side to the other thereof, and a second line extending at right angles to the first-named line and terminating at the periphery of the guide.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

HARRY J. KRAMER.

Copies 01. this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of lie-tents, Washington, D. G."

in Letters Patent No. 1278,6233.

Corrections It is hereby certified that in Letters Patent No. 1,278,683, granted September 10 1918, upon the application of Harry J. Kramer, of Boston, Massachusetts, for an improvement in Garment-Pattern-Making Guides, errors appear in the printed specification requiring correction as follows: Page 4:, line 55, claim 2, after the word direction insert the Words and position; page 5, line 98, claim 12, for the word templet read guide; and that the said Letters Patent should be read With these corrections therein that the same may conform to the record of the case in the Patent Office. I

Signed and sealed this 15th day of October, A. D., 1918.

R. F. WHITEHEAD,

Acting Commissioner of Patents.

[SEAL]

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