US1197244A

US1197244A - Circular-knit garment.

Info

Publication number: US1197244A
Application number: US68244212A
Authority: US
Inventors: Adolph G Velasko
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1912-03-08
Filing date: 1912-03-08
Publication date: 1916-09-05
Anticipated expiration: 1933-09-05

Description

2 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

5 b p 8 S d e t n 6 t a v P INVENTOR WITNESSES:

A; e. VELASKO.

CIRCULAR KNIT GARMENT.

APPLICATION FILED MAR-8,1912.

Patented Sept. 5, 1916.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2- CIRCULAR-KNIT GARMENT.

amie;

' Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Sept. 5, 191%.

Application filed March 8, 1912. Serial No. 682,4M.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, AnoLPn G. VnLAsKo, of Syracuse, in the county of Onondaga, in

' the State of New York, have invented new and useful Improvements inv Circular-Knit Garments, of which the following, taken in connection with the accompanying drawinggsl,1 is a full, clear, and exact description.

ments in circular knit garments, and while it refers more particularly to union suits, it is equally applicable to knit vests and similar underwear.

It is well known that in the manufacture of full 1x1 fine stitch garments on power driven circular knitting machines, it is practically impossible to change the weight of the fabric without running in a splicing thread or cutting out a thread which is very expensive and wasteful in this class of machines, and that in the manufacture of such fine 1x1 stitch vests, pants and union suits, the garments must be made on amuch larger machine and the bust, waist and hips cut to shape in order to give the garment the desired form, thereby causing a large amount of waste material and necessitating the seaming from the sleeves down to each of the hips which, of course, is objectionable.

The main object, therefore, of my present invention is to produce in arelatively small machine a circular knit garment of the desired form, with a minimum amount of waste, cutting or seams, leaving the waist with the full degree of elasticity of the original tube and at the same time giving to the bust a maximum degree of fullness and imparting to the thigh ortions such extra width and wearing qualities as may be afforded by a double or tuck stitch. In other words I have sought to produce a more elastic and better formed garment of predetermined size, as for example a number 38 size on a relatively small sized, as, for instance, a 13-inch machine where heretofore it has been necessary to produce the same sized garment on a 19-inch machine, thereby permitting the use of cheaper machines which not only obviates the use of hundreds of needles but also permits the garment to be properly shaped without practically any waste.

In the manufacture of union suits, one of the specific objects is to reduce the number of cuts necessary to form the legs and bust,

1s invention relates to certain improveand at the same time to utilize part of the waist informing the legs as inserts to give the bust the desired form or fullness withguttactually cutting away any part of the Another specific object is to attach these inserts in such manner as to brin the seams at the back, leaving the full elasticity of the original fabric across the front of the bust, it being understood that these inserts are cut from the fine stitch fabric at the bottom of the legs of a union suit or pants.

Other objects and uses will be brought out in the following description.

In the drawings, Figure 1 is a side elevation of a circular knitflat tube for forming a union suit showing the cuts made for the legs andflaps of the bust. Fig. 2 is a rear elevation of the same tube folded at right angles to that shown in Fig. 1 showing more particularly the form of the legs and flaps after being cut as shown in Fig. 1. Figs. 3, 4. and 5 are transverse sectional views of the same tube taken on lines 33, 4-4 and 5-5 Fig. 1. Figs. 6 and 7 show respectively a back view and a front view of the com leted garment except that portions of the s eeves are broken away.

The circular, knit tube forming the union suit is made in such manner as to produce a relatively he'avy tuck stitch body 1 and somewhat lighter upper and lower ends -2 and -3 of finer stitch commonly known as a 1x1 stitch to give greater elasticity thereto.

The central body 1 is of sufficient lengthto form the hips and greater portions of the legs and is tuck-stitched to give it greater wearing qualities and incidentally to make this portion of the garment slightly wider particularly at the hips, thereby producing a slight flare at the junction of the waist with the hips.

The single stitched upper portion 2- of the tube is of sufficient length to form the waist and bust or that portion of the garment extending from the hips to the neck and therefore possesses a maximum flexibility to conform to this portion of the body and when folded flatwise with the folds at the front and rear as shown in Fig. 1, both sides thereof are slit on lines aand -bfrom the upper edge downwardly the hip form an intervening uncut to a point a sufficient distance above line -0- to the sleeve opening, while the ment vis folded flatwise the tube a short distance 40 nearl seamless waist portion 4 possessing the full flexibility of the original tube. a

The slits w and bare located wholly at the rearside of the longitudinal center of the portion -2- so as to form flaps 5 integral with the front of the bust and for the additional purpose of bringing the seams by which the insert presently descrlbed is secured to the bust wholly at the back of the garment.

The upper slits a are parallel with the opposite-edge of the tube and of approximately the same length as the Width of the adjacent portion of the sleeves when the latter are folded flatwise to form lower slits bextend somewhat diagonally or downwardly and forwardly so as to give the necessary fullness to sert is stitched in place as .shown more clearly in Fi s. 2, 3 and 4. 7

It is there ore evidentthat when the garat ri ht. angles to that shown in Fig.1 and the aps '5 extended, the space between'the outer edges of the flaps and corresponding-edges of the back formed by said slits will be somewhat V-shape as clearly shown in Figs. 2 and 6, thereby leaving the front portion of the bust of the garment considerably wider than the back portion 'andalso wider than the waist 4.

The lower fine stitch portion 3- of the folded tube shown in Fig. 1 is cut from the lower edge, upwardly 1n diverging lines at opposite sides of and equi-distant from the longitudinal center of the tube, said cuts extending to the outer edges of above the lower edge as e of the tuck stitch body l,

thereby forming extra pointed pieces 6 of substantially the same form and size, leaving the intermediate portions as -7 of sufficient width to form the bottom of the lhe lower portions of the slits d are parallel with each other and with the side edges of the tube and are preferably of a length substantially equal to the length of the slits a, while the remaining portions of the slits are cut diagonally to conform as y as possible to the insert of the slits b, thus permitting these extra pieces 6 to be used as inserts in the gaps or spaces formed by unfolding the flaps 5 with a minimum amount of trim, thereby avoiding excessive waste of material. In practice, however, these inserts 6- are trimmed or cut to a Width slightly less than the distance between the outer edges of the flaps 5 and corresponding edges of the back of the bust so that when said inserts are stitched to these edges, the seams between the outer edges of the flaps and inserts will be drawn slightly around to the substantially the bust when the inback as shown more clearly in Fig. 6, thereby leaving the entire front of the waist and bust free from seams except where 'it is slit longitudinally at the center from the neck to the waist line to permit the garment to be put on and takenoff.

The inserts 6 as shown inFig. 1 are, of course, folded on their longitudinal centers but when unfolded assume a form substantially similar to that shown in Fig. 6 except for the slight trimming hereinbefore mentioned.

In addition to the slits or cuts previously described, the front and rear portions of the tuck-stitched body 1 are slit or cut through their longitudinal centers at f and g respectively, the slit f extending from the upper end of the corresponding slit dto a point some distance below the lower waist line c-, while the slit g extends from the upper end of the corresponding slit d to said waist rear. flap 9.

formed by the, slits Z-', f. and -g the corresponding edges of said slits at the inner edges of the legs are stitched together 1n the well known manner to complete the formation of the legs, the gusset 8 and flap 9 being also stitched in the well known manner to the inner sides of the legs so as to permit the flap 9- to overlap upon one of the legs and at the same time to form an opening in the seat.

The main feature, however, of my invention consists in .producing a circular knit garment with a relatively large bust of extremely flexible fine stitch fabric, leaving a relatively smaller seamless waist of the same stitch, while the body or'skirt portion is made of comparatively heavy tuck stitch fabric on the same machine and in utilizing the waste material from the legs as inserts in the back of the bust at the shoulders to give greater fullness to the bust.

he advantages of this construction will be readily apparent when it is considered that plain stitch fabric cannot be widened in this combination of tuck and plain stitch Without splicing which does not really widen, while the tuck stitch in the body makes this portion of the garment considerably wider and permits the garment to be readily narrowed for the waist and lower portions of the legs by simply'changing to a plain stitch, thereby using less yarn.

What I claim is:

1. A circular-knit garment, comprising a bust portion, a waist portion and hip and thigh portions, all knit as one piece, the bust and waist portions being of one-to-one stitch to afford maximum elasticity, and the thigh portion of tuck stitch to give slight flare at the hips.

2. A circular-knit union suit having its bust, waist and lower portions of its legs made of one-to-one stitch, and its remaining portion of tuck stitch.

3. A circular-knit garment having the front portion of its bust between the arms seamless and of considerably greater width than. the corresponding portion of the back, and gussets connecting opposite edges of said front with the corresponding edges of such back, leaving arm-holes at the junction of the gussets with the front of the bust.

4:. A circular-knit garment having the front portion of its bust between the arms seamless and of considerably greater width than the corresponding portion of the back, and gussets connecting opposite edges of said front with the corresponding edges of such back, leaving arm-holes at the junction of the gussets with the front of the bust, said bust and gussets being of one-to-one stitch and the hip portions of tuck stitch.

5. A circular-knit union suit having its bust portion of one-to-one stitch and its hip portion of tuck stitch, portions of the back of the bust at opposite sides of the longitudinal center being separated therefrom along similar lines and folded forwardly to form integral portions of the front above the waist line to give greater fullness to the bust, and gfissets connecting the edges of the back of the bust with, the corresponding edges of the front of said bust, leaving armholes at the junction of the gussets with said front.

6. A knit undergarment formed from tubular fabric, the body of-said garment having portions from the back disposed as integral side extensions of the front at the bust, and having inserts corresponding with said front extensions and disposed at each side, the said extensions and inserts extending to the armholes.

7. A knit undergarment formed from a tubular body fabric, and having a body Widened at its upper portion beyond the initial width of the tubular body fabric, and comnarrow back and joined along one edge.

thereto, the saidinserts at the upper ends extending to the shoulder seams and laterally to the scyes, each insert being tapered into V-form downwardly to the lower end, the forward edges of the 'V-shaped extensions being joined to the side edges of the front extensions.

8. A union suit havin a body formed from a tubular body fabric, the-same being divided at the side above the waist to present lateral, integral extensions on the front and to present a narrow central integral back portion, the back having inserts at the sides of said central portion, and joined to the latter and to the said front extensions, the said central back portion with the inserts presenting a total width corresponding with the front and its integral extensions, the front with the integral lateral extension and the back with the inserts giving increased width to the body at the bust.

9. A knit garment formed from a tubular fabric and having a body presenting a central back portion and an integral front, the,

latter having side portions extending beyond the sides of the said back portion, said side portions being composed of back members turned forwardly, there being inserts at the sides of the central back portion corresponding with the said side extensions of the front and joined to said central back portion and to the said extensions.

In witness whereof I have hereunto set my hand on this 28th day of February 1912.

ADOLPH G. VELASKO.

Witnesses:

E. A. THoMPsoN, E. S. TUCKER.