US1138584A - Apparatus for use in the manufacture of boots and shoes. - Google Patents

Apparatus for use in the manufacture of boots and shoes. Download PDF

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Publication number
US1138584A
US1138584A US59990810A US1910599908A US1138584A US 1138584 A US1138584 A US 1138584A US 59990810 A US59990810 A US 59990810A US 1910599908 A US1910599908 A US 1910599908A US 1138584 A US1138584 A US 1138584A
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United States
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shoe
heel
lasting
machine
wipers
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US59990810A
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Pearl J Wentworth
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USM Ltd
United Shoe Machinery Co AB
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United Shoe Machinery Co AB
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Priority to US59990810A priority Critical patent/US1138584A/en
Priority to US738707A priority patent/US1138585A/en
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43DMACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
    • A43D23/00Single parts for pulling-over or lasting machines
    • A43D23/06Devices for cutting-off superfluous material on the uppers or linings

Definitions

  • This invention relates to the manufacture of boots and shoes and particularly to machines for use in making welt shoes.
  • the upper materials in cluding the heel stiffener are lasted over the heel seat end of the innersole and permanently tacked down about as far forward as the breast of the heel or the rear end of the channel lip or rib of the innersole on each side. From thence forwardly on each side to the toe the upper materials, including the end portions of the heel stifl'ener, are lasted against the lip or rib of the innersole and secured by temporary or primary fastenings.
  • the shoe is subjected to the operation of the Welter or welt sewing machine by which, simultaneously with the attachment of the welt, the upper materials are permanently sewed to the lip or rib of the innersole.
  • the outersole is then sewed to the welt around thesides and toe and nailed to the innersole at the heel seat, the ends of the welt being beveled oil and fastoned down between the outer and inner-soles.
  • the welt ends be symmetrically located on the two sides of the shoe and uniformly on all shoes of a size and style and to this and other ends it is desirable that the welt sewing machine operator start and end his seam symmetrically and uniformly.
  • An im ortant object of this invention is to reme y these difficulties and a general o ject 15 to facilitate and economize in the manufacture of welt shoes and to secure a better product.
  • an important feature of this invention consists in means for marking the shoe for the beginning and the ending of the welt attaching seam. This marking will preferably be made as a cut into the face of the overlaid upper material on the heel seat.
  • a further feature of this invention consists in provision for extending the marking cut through the upper and through the flan e of the heel stiffener.
  • t ese cuts will be located immediately in front of the front heel seat tack on each side of the shoe and ⁇ villfdisconnect the portion of the flange which is or is to be fastened down by the heel seat tacks from the end portions which are to be lasted up against the lip or shoulder of the innersole.
  • This enables both portions of the flange to be better lasted in place and eliminates liability of loosenin the heel seat tacks while sewing. It also acilitates the sewing operation because it makes easier the presentation of the shoe for the first stitch to be made close to the heel seat tack and for the stitch to be inserted down close to the base of the lip or rib.
  • apparatus 1s provided for-- marking and slitting the stock at the two sides of the shoe at the same distance from the heel end of the shoe and, preferably, for doin this at the two sides of the shoe simu taneously. Provision is made for convenient adjustment for marking shoes of different sizes.
  • the' marking or cutting apparatus is associated with a ast ing mechanism. By this combination the shoe is marked or cut while it is jacked for the lasting operation and separate handling and jacking of the shoe is avoided.
  • an element of the lasting mechanism constitutes the gage with relation to which the shoe is positioned for the operation of the marking mechanism.
  • the marking apparatus is connected with heel seat lasting mechanism for actuation automatically when the. lasting mechanism is operated.
  • the apparatus is arranged so that the operator of the lasting machine must use it and opportunity does not exist for an indifl'erent workman to neglect it.
  • the cuts are preferably made in advance of the full closing of the heel lasting wipers so that said wipers may lay the heel stifl'ener flange down upon the heel seat without resistance, from the end portions of the flange which are to be lasted up against the li or rib of the innersole.
  • the cutters are a so, preferably, positioned automatically by the lasting mechanism with relation to the side edges of the shoe to locate the cuts at the same distances inward from the edges of the shoe bottom on wide and narrow shoes and on the two sides of an unsymmetrical last.
  • auxiliary lasting means are provided for doing the dillicult work of shaping the end portions of the stiiiener flari'ge up against the lip or rib of the innersole.
  • auxiliary lasting means or flange shapers as they may be designated are shown as located in advance of the ends of the heel seat lasting plates or heel wipers and as arranged to have not only an overlaying movement like the wiping movement of the heel wipers but a rubbing movement lengthwise of the shoe to crease the shoe stock, including the stiffener flange, into the angle formed at the junction of the channel lip and feather of the innersole. This is an operation which has sometimes been done in fine hand shoema-king with a suitably shaped tool made of bone and has been called boning.
  • Figure 1 is a plan view of a heel lasting mechanism with which this invention is combined.
  • Fi 2- is a side elevation.
  • Fig. 3 is a front en view
  • Fig. 4 is a perspective view
  • the illustrative machine comprises heel lasting mechanism which may be of the same type and general construction, exce t as hereinafter specified, as that described 1n United States patent to Matthias Brock N 0. 1,018,477, granted Feb. 27, 1912, which forms part of a lasting machine known commercially as the No. 5 'laster. It will be sufficient to state that with the shoe support which is indicated at 2 is associated the heel lasting head 1 which carries a heel embracing band 6. This band is connected to the head at its rear end and. the front ends have band supporting and closing connections 8 with slide bars 10 attached to the cross head 12 of a plunger 14 that is actuated yieldingly through spring 15 to clamp theupper materials about the heel end of the last on support-'2.
  • Heel lasting plates or wipers 16 are guided on the head 2 for advancing and closing movements to fold the upper materials inwardly over the edge of the shoe and lay them down for the heel seat.
  • These wipers 16 or the cam plates 18 on whichthey are carried are connected by links 19 with a plunger 20 that is connected at its rear end to the operating lever which has a fulcrum link connection 24 to the head 4.
  • the heel band is closed first and the wipers then are actuated.
  • cam slots 32 that receive a guide stud 34 depending from the auxiliary lasting devices or flange shapers 35 the rearwardly extending operating arms of which are pivotally connected to the end portions of the heel wipers 16.
  • the heel band positions the flange shapers relatively to the edge of the shoe when it closes and the wipers 16, when they advance and close force the flange shapers forwardl in an inwardly directed course determin by the slots 32 and also turn the flange creasers.
  • the knife levers 50 each have a rounded hump over which stands thebroad end of ar' lever 55. These levers are fulcrumed at 56 to a bracket on the machine head and on their rear arms have rolls 58 in the path of cam plates 60 on a cm bar 62 which is guided for movement in the head by a plunger 65 that moves endwise through an eye in the frame. This plunger 65 is connected at its rear end to the wiper operating lever 25.
  • the wiper guiding portion of the head is movable relatively to the main portion of the head 4 by a screw 21 about the longitudinal axis of the plunger 20 and as the plunger 65 is guided in the stationary portion of thehead the Gloss-bar 62 has an arc-shaped slot for the front end of the plunger.
  • the knife carriers 49 are pivoted on the sliding blocks 46.
  • the outer ends of the knife carriers are connected, (Fig. 2) with links that have a. slotted connection at 72 with the fulcrum studs '56 and are attached to arms 73 of a to move the blocks 46 and the rock shaft 74 vwhich can be turned by its handle arm 7 5 in brackets 76 rising from the head.
  • One of the brackets 76 is extended upward and has a segmental notched upper edge with which engages a locking pawl 78 carried by the handle arm '7 5.
  • the segment may have size marks indicated adjacent to the notches to indicate the adjustment of the knife carriers 49 toward or from the rear end of the heel band for the size of shoe thati is in the machine and embraced by the
  • the invention may be used as follows: The shoe having been jacked on the support 2 against the gage 17 and the heel band closed about the woe the handled arm can be made to set the knife carriers about the pivots 48, Fig. 1, forwardly or backwardly for the size of the shoe. The advance movement of the slide bars 10 in effecting the closing of the heel band will have carried forwardly the links 40 and the slides 42 and turned the lovers 45 knife carriers 49 inwardlv in accordance with the width of the shoe.
  • the length bf the lever arms and the shape of the cam slots in the ends of links 42 are such that the knives are moved from a. position outside the contour of the band first rapidly inwardly until they are inside the band and then in proportion to the closing movement of the band ends until they are over the shoe in position to make the cuts from a point removed from the shoe edge about the width of the feather of the innersole to a point far enough in to slit the heel stiffening flange to its edge.
  • the cams 60 again throw down the knife levers 50 and if the first cut did not go down deep enou h the second will complete the incision.
  • a the second stroke insures cutting through the overwiped upper which may not have been in position to be cut properly in the first stroke of the knives.
  • the advance of the wipers also advances and turns the flange creasers and causes them to rub forwardly for shaping the upper and stiffener flange against the feather and upstanding lip of the innersole.
  • Another stroke of the creasers is effected. While the creasers hold the flange bent and crowded into place a lasting tack may be driven if necessary to fasten the flange down where it 'is to be sewn.
  • This operation prepares the shoe for the sewing so that the upper and the flange are lasted-in where they belong and can be sewed down against the base of the channel lip or rib at and near the rear ends of the seam as well as the upper materials are secured at any other parts of the shoe.
  • the cuts made by the knives 54 through the upper material begin at a distance from the edge of the shoe where the cuts made by the prior machine terminate although the cuts made in the innel'sole by the prior machine are entirely covered by the overlasted flanges of the upper and heel stifl'ener in the lasted shoe.
  • the present machine preferably comprises provision for locating the cuts at a measured distance inwardly from the shoe edge which corresponds with the width of the channel lip or the feather of the innersole. That improvement in method of making shoes which is herein disclosed is not claimed in this application but forms the subject-matter of a divisional application, Serial No. 738,707, filed Dec. 26, 1912.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, means for supporting a shoe, means for lasting the heel seat, and means positioned as an incident to the lasting operation for marking the heel seat at each side adjacent to the heel breast location at a measured distance from the heel end face of the shoe.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, means for supporting a shoe, means for lasting the heel seat, and means for forming cuts in the lasted over upper materials on the innersole at each side of the heel, said means being arranged to locate the cuts with their outer ends a substantial distance inside the edge of the shoe bottom.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, means for supporting a shoe, means for lasting an end portion of the shoe, and means operated automatically during the actuation of the lasting means to mark the shoe bottom, said means being arranged to locate the mark entirely inside that portion of the shoe bottom which is visible in the rand crease of the finished shoe.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, means for supporting a shoe, means for lasting an end portion of the shoe, cutters arranged to form incisions extending from a point-located a substantial distance inside the shoe edge toward the edge of the lasted over upper, and automatic means for operating said cutters during the operation of the lastin means.
  • a machine of the class escribed having, in combination, means for supporting a shoe, wipers movable for lasting an end portion of the shoe, cutters for the shoe materials, and means for moving said cutters during a portion only of the period of movement of said wipers.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, means arranged for supportin ashoe with a last therein, said means including a spindle upon which the last may be mounted,.and means constructed and shoe at a the heel and face of the location for an arranged to mark the measured distance from the shoe for indicatin end of the welt attachin seam.
  • a machine of the c ass described having, in combination, means for supporting a shoe with a last therein, said means including a s indle upon which the last may be mounte a heel band for engaging the rear end face of the shoe, and means constructed and located with reference to said end engaging means to mark the shoe bottom at a measured distance from the heel end face of the shoe and simultaneously at the two sides of the shoe for indicating the location for the ends of the welt attaching seam.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, means for supportin a shoe and means constructed and arrange to cut down through the upper and the flange of the heel stiffener at the location for the division line between the tacked heel seat and the sewed inseam, said machine having provision for positioning the cutting means to locate the cuts entirely inside the portion of the shoe bottom which is visible in the rand crease of the completed shoe.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, means for supportin a shoe and means constructed and arrange to .cut down through the upper and the flange of the heel stiffener at the location for the division line between the tacked heel seat and the sewed inseam, said cutting means being adjustable for shoes of difi'erent sizes.
  • a machine of the class described havmg, in combination, means for supporting a shoe, means constructed and arranged to cut down through the upper and the flange of the heel stiffener-at the location for the division line between the tacked heel seat and the sewed inseam, means for lasting down upon the heel seat the upper materials, in-
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, means for supporting a shoe, means constructed and arranged mark the shoe bottomon the side thereof in a location remote from the shoe ends and determined with reference to the heel end of the shoe, lasting means, and connected mechanism for operating the marking means and the lasting means.
  • a machine of the classdescribed having, in combination, means for supporting a shoe, means constructed and arranged to cut down through the upper and the flange of the heel stilfener at the location for the division line between the tacked heel seat and the inseam, heel seat lasting means, and connected mechanism for operating the cutting means and the lasting means.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, means for supporting a shoe, means constructed and arranged to cut down through the upper and the flange of the heel stiffener at the location for the division line between the tacked heel seat and the inseam, and lasting means arranged to operate on the shoe while it is supported for the operation of the cutting means.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, end lasting means, means to operate it, and a plurality of shoe marking devices arranged to be automatically reciprocated simultaneously into and out of contact with the shoe bottom during a portion only of the movement of the lastmg means.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, end lasting means, means to operate it, and shoe marking devices arranged to be automatically moved twice into and out of markin contact with the shoe bottom during the advance and retraction of the lastin means.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, end lasting means, operating mechanism for moving the lasting means in substantiallv the plane of the shoe bottom, and marking means arranged at opposite sides of the shoe end to be reciprocated automatically perpendicularly to said plane during the actuation of the end lasting means.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, means for engaging the end face of a shoe, marking devices positioned therefrom lengthwise of the shoe and arranged to assume marking positions substantially invariable in relation to the side edges of the shoe bottom and variable in relation to the median line of the bottom for different sizes of shoes, and means whereby said devices may be actuated to mark a shoe.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, means for engaging the end face of a shoe on a last, cutters ar ranged to be positioned therefrom over the last bottom, and means for actuating said cutters to form slits in the shoe bottom, the parts of the machine being arranged to permit the presentation of the shoe assembled upon its last against the end face engaging means and under the cutters.
  • a machine of the class described having. in combination. a heel embracin band, means for closing the band around t e heel portion of a shoe, and marking devices positioned by said band lengthwise and laterally over a shoe bottom.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, means relatively to which a shoe is positioned lengthwise, knives at each side of the shoe that have their longitudinal relation to the shoe determined thereby, means for actuating the knives inwardly over the shoe, and means for depressing the knives to slit the upper materials on the shoe bottom.
  • a machine of the class described havmg, in combination, end lasting wipers, slitters positioned automatically with relation to the end lasting wipers to slit an upper at the breast of the heel seat after it has been bent inwardly over the heel seat by the wlpers, and means for imparting to the wipers and the slitters separate movements in time relation.
  • a machine of the class described havmg, in combination, end lasting wipers, slitters arranged to operate inside the wipers after the wipers have closed over the edge of the shoe bottom, and connected means for actuating the wipers and the slitters in directions perpendicular to each other.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, end lasting wipers, slitters, and connected means for actuating the slitters to effect two cutting strokes to each reciprocation of the wipers.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, end lasting wipers, slitters, and connected means for actuating the slitters to cut in advance of the movement of the wipers over the shoe bottom and again after said movement.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, end lasting wipers, slitters and wiper operating means arranged to actuate the slitters during the first part of its advance and again during the last part of its retraction.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, slitters, end lasting means in the rear of the slitters, other lasting means in front of the slitters, and con nected means to impart separate movements to said slitters and lasting means.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, slitters to slit the upper materials at the locations for the rear ends of the inseam and lasting means to crease the upper materials to the formation of the innersole in advance of the slits.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, slitters movable later-' ally over a shoe from opposite sides and then downwardly to do their work, and means to support the shoe against their downward thrust.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, devices arranged to receive between them a shoe upon its last and adapted for measuring along the side of the shoe from the heel end face forwardly a predetermined distance and for cutting through the upper and heel stiffener flange at said measured distance from the heel end of the shoe.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, devices for measuring shoe from along the side of a shoe from the heel end face forwardly a predetermined distance and for. cutting through the upper and heel stifiener flange at said measured distance from the heel end of the shoe, said out starltmg from a measured distance inward of the shoe bottom and from the side ed extending inward y to. the edge of the upper.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, a shoe su port, means arranged with reference to sai support for ascertainin the location for an end of the inseam an operating mechanism for said means to cause it to mark said location.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, a shoe support, means arranged with reference to sai support for ascertaining the location for ending the welt attaching seam and operating mechanism for said means to cause it to cut through the upper and heel stifiener flange at that lo cation to make a passageway for the sewing machine channel guide to emer e from the channel and ass over the tacke down portion of the ange in sewing the end of the inseam.
  • a lastin machine having, in combi nation, means or lasting the heel seat of a shoe and means for parting the heel stiffener flange at the inseam on location to enable the channel guide of the inseam sewing machine to ass through the flange m sewing the end 0 the inseam.
  • a lastin machine having, in combithe heel seat of a nation, means or last-Egg shoe and means adap for adpistment to nal portion of the part the overlasted mar upper materials and hes stifl'ener at the location for the end of the 36.
  • a lasting machine having, in combi nation, means for lasting the heel seat of a shoe, and adjustable means to part the overlasted flange of the upper and heel stiffener at the location for the end of the inseam for the purpose described, actuating devices for the heel seat lasting means an connections for actuating sai flange parting means from said devices.
  • a lasting machine having, in combination, means for lasting the heelseat of a shoe, heel seat lasting wipers adapted to wipe over the upper materials on the heel seat, and means to cut down through said materials on the heel seat after they are overwi ed.
  • lastingJ machine having, in combination, a plura 'ty of lasting devices adapted for actuation durin the same operation of the machine to pro nee diiferent lasting effects, and means to part the upper between said devices.
  • a machine for lasting hpped mnersoles having, in combination, hee seat lastmg wipers and means operating in advance of the operation of the lasting means for partin the 11 per material at the ends of the lip mm at which is to be lasted down.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, an end embracing band, a pair of cutters mounted to be positioned over the shoe bottom by said band, and means for actuating the cutters to do their work.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, a heel embracing band, a pair of cutters arranged to be ositioned over the shoe bottom by said ban said cutters being arranged for adjustment for different sizes of shoes, and means for actuating the cutters substantially perpendicularly to the plane of the shoe bottom to do their work.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, a heel embracing band, means for closing the band ends a alnst the sides of the shoe at the front end 0 the heel, cutters mounted to be sitioned over the front of the heel seat in accordance with the band closing movement, heel seat wipers, and means for actuating the cutters when the wi ers are operated.
  • machine for lasting uppers over channeled innersoles having, in combination, end lasting wipers, auxiliary lasting devices located in front of the operative ends of the wipers, and actuatingmeansfor advancing and closing the wipers and for imparting an independent movement to the auxiliary devices lengthwise of the shoe.
  • a machine for lasting uppers over channeled innersoles having, in combination, end lasting wipers, auxiliary lasting devices located in front of the wipers, means independent of the wipers to position said devices in accordance with the shape of the shoe, and connected means for actuating the wi ers and devices to do their work.
  • machine for lasting uppers over channeled innersoles having, in combination, end lasting wipers, auxiliary lasting devices located in front of the wipers, means independent of the wipers to position said devices in accordance with the shape of the shoe, cams for controllingi the path of operative movement of said evices, and means for actuating the wipers and advancing the devices.
  • a machine for lasting uppers over channeled innersoles having, in combination, end lasting wipers, auxiliary lasting devices located in front of the wipers, cams heel seats over III:
  • a machine for lasting uppers over channeled innersoles having, in combination, end lasting wipers, auxiliary lasting devices located in front of the wipers, means independent of the wipers to position said devices in accordance with the shape of the shoe, cams for directing the course of movement of the wipers, separate cams for directing the course of advance of the devices, means for operating the wipers, and connections for also eflecting operation of said devices.
  • a machine for lasting uppers .over channeled innersoles having, in combination, end lasting wipers, auxiliary lasting devices located in front of the wipers, a heel band upon which said devices are supported, means for causing said band to embrace the heel end of the last and position said devices in accordance with the shape of the embraced shoe, and connected means for actuating the wipers and said positioned devices to do their work.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, a heel band, heel band closing slide bars, cam slot slides actuated from said slide bars, cutters positioned over the shoe bottom by the action of said cam slot slides, and means for actuating the cutters to do their work.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, a heel band, heel band closing slide bars, cam slot slides actuated from said slide bars, cutter slides arranged to be advanced toward the shoe by movement derived from said cam slots, cutter levers pivoted relatively to said slides, means for adjusting the cutters about their pivots for adjustment for the size of the shoe, and means for actuating the cutters to do their Work.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, cutter levers extending inwardly over the shoe bottom from opposite sidesof a shoe, cutters on said levers, means for efl'ecting adjustment of said levers lengthwise-of the shoe for the size of the shoe, and means for rocking said levers to cause the cutters to cut through the flange of the up er materials.
  • machine of the class described having, in combination, cutter levers extending inwardly over the shoe bottom from opposite sides of a shoe, cutters on said levers, means for effecting adjustment of said levers lengthwise of the shoe for the size of the shoe, and means for rocking said levers to cause the cutters to cut through the flange of the upper materials.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, a heel band, heel band closing slide bars, cam slot slides actuated from said slide bars, cutters positioned over the shoe bottom by the action of said cam slot slides, levers overlying the cutters, and means for actuating said overlying levers to cause the cutters to do their work.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, a heel band, heel band closing slide bars, cam slot slides actuated from said slide bars, cutters positioned over the shoe bottom by the action of said cam slot slides, wipers, means for actuating the wipers, levers overlying the cutters and a cam operated by the wiper actuating mechanism to depress the cutters momentarily to do their work.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, a heel band, heel band closing slide bars, cam slot slides actuated from said slide bars, cutters positioned over the shoe bottom by the action of said cam slot slides, wipers, means for actuating the wipers, levers overlying the cutters, and cams operated by the wiper actuating mechanism during its advance stroke and again during its return stroke to depress the cutters repeatedly.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, cutters 54, carriers by which they are positioned over the shoe bottom, cutter depressing levers 55, wipers, wiper actuating means, cams 60, and connections therefrom to said actuating means for causing the cams to rock the depressing levers for the purpose described.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, cutters 54, levers 50 on which the cutter arecarried, depressor levers 55, wipers and a wiper closing lever 25, and cams 60 operated by the closing lever to rock the depressors for forcing the cutters into the work.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, cutters 54, levers 50 on which the cutters are carried, means foractuating the cutters, pivoted blocks 49 on which the levers 50 are mounted, an adjusting lever 75 and link connections fromthe lever 75 to said blocks for adjusting the two 'cgtters simultaneously lengthwise of the s cc.
  • a heel seat lasting mechanism having, in combination, heel seat lasting wipers formed and arranged to embrace the heel end of a last for wiping the upper over the entire heel seat at one operation, devices to crease the flange of the upper materials into the angle between the feather and the lip or rib of a welt innersole in front of the heel seat, and means for actuating said wipers and devices.
  • a heel seat lasting mechanism having, in combination, heel seat lasting wipers formed and arranged to embrace the heel end of a last for wiping the upper over the 1 crease the flange of the upper materials into wi rs, and connections for also advancing the angle between the feather and the lip an turning the devices to do their work. or rib of a welt innersole in front of the bee 67
  • An end lasting mechanism hav' in seat, and means for actuating said wipers combination, an end'embracing band, paces 70 and for advancing said devicwlengthwise carried by said band and having slots doof the shoe to do their work. vices mounted on said plates to overlie the 61.
  • a heel seat lasting mechanism having, shoe edge and means for actuating said dea in combination, heel seat lasting wipers, devices lengthwise of the shoe in sa d slots to 10 vices to crease the flange of the u per matecrease the upper into the angle between the 75 rials into the angle betweenthe eather and feather and 11p of an innersole, the lip or rib of a welt innersole, means for 68.
  • Anend astin mechanism having, in actuating said wipers, connections throu h combination, an en embracing band, and which said devices are advanced by e a creasing device arranged positio ed 15 wipers to crease the upper, and means sepsi relatively to the shoe edge by said band and so rate from the wipers for controlling the movable therealong tocrease the u per into path of said devices. the angle between. the feather and t e lip'of 62.
  • a heel seat lasting mechanism having, aninnerso e. j in combination, heel seat lasting wipers, de- 69.
  • a heel seat lasting mechanism having, 70.
  • An end lasting mechanism having, in in combination, heel seat lasting wipers, ecombination, an end embracing band, cam vices to crease the flange of the ufpper mate- 1 plates on the ends of the band, creasers so rials into the angle between the eatlier and mounted on said cam plates, wipers towhich the lip or rib of a welt innersole, means for the creasers are connected, and means for positioning the devices over the shoe bottom, actuating the wipers to do their work and and connections with the wipers whereby to move the creasers to crease the u per into said devices are advanced to rub lengthwise the angle between the feather and t e lip of entire heel seat at one operation, devices to edge of the shoe, means ,for actuating the as of the shoe when the wipersare closed.
  • a heel seat lasting mechanism having, 71.
  • a machine arranged to receive a last in combination, heel seat lastin'gwipers, de with a shoe thereon, cutters, means for p0 vices to crease the flange of the upper matesitioning said cutters over the shoe bottom rials into' the angle between the feather and at a measured distance from the edge of.
  • 1 40 the lip or rib of a welt innersole, means for shoe, and means for actuat ng the cutters positioning thedevices over the shoe botto make slits in the material of the shoe tom, and means for-turning said devices on bottom.
  • 1 g 1 said positioning means and advancing them 72.
  • a heel seat lasting mechanism having, location of the u turned innersole lip and in combination, heel seat lasting wipers, deextending inward and means for actuat-' vices to crease the flange of the u per matein said cutters. 80' rials into the angle between the ether and 3.
  • a machine of the class described hav the lip or rib of a welt innersole, a heel emng, in combination, lasting devices ior last'-' bracing bandupon which the devices are mg the upper down upon the heel seat of mounted and.
  • a heel seat lasting mechanism having, that is to be lasted against the innersole lip, in combination, heel seat lasting wipers, deand means for actuating the cutters.
  • a machine of the class described havrials into the angle between t e feather ing, in combination, cutters to form slits in and the lip or rib of a welt innersole, a heel opposite edges of a vamp to separate the embracing band upon which said devices are marginal portion that is to be lasted down mounted for pivotal and sliding movement from the portion that Is to be lasted against 65 and by which they are positionedover the the inner-sole lip, means to support the work 110 and position the cutters to insure location of the slits to extend from about the line along which the vamp is to be secured to the innersole of the shoe to the edge of the vamp,
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, means for supporting a last with an insole thereon, means for fixing the lengthwise position of the last in the machine, and marking means movable from the side inwardly over the last bottom and constructed and arranged with reference to said positioning means to mark the shoe stock on the bottom of the last at a measured distance from the heel end face of the last.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, means for supporting a last with an insole thereon, means for fixing the lengthwise position of the last in the machine, marking devices positioned lengthwise of the last with reference to an end face of said last, and movable inwardly from opposite sides over the last bottom, and means whereby said devices may be operated to mark the shoe stock on the last.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, a marking device.
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, a marking device, means for gaging the position of a last and for relatively moving said device and the last laterally with respect to the last to cause said marking device to sustain a suitable .relation to the last bottom for marking the location for an end of the welt attaching seam, and means whereby said device,
  • a machine of the class described having, in combination, marking devices, means for gaging the position of the rear end face of a last to cause said devices to project forwardly in position for marking the location for the ends of the welt attaching seam, said devices being movable laterally over the last to positions predetermined with reference to the sides of the last, and means whereby said devices ma be operated to mark the shoe stock on t e bottom of the last.

Landscapes

  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)

Description

'P. J. WENTWORTH. APPARATUS FOR USE IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES.
APPLICATION FILED 056.29. I910.
Patented May 4, 1915.
2 SHEETS-SHEET l //l/V/V7L /K MIA/isms:
P. J. WENTWORTH.
IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS APPLICATION men 050.29. I9l0.
AND SHOES.
APPARATUS FOR use Patented May 4, 1915.
2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.
rrrrrrr w UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.
PEARL J. WENTWORTH, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COHIANY, 01 PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.
APPARATUS FOR USE IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES.
Specification of Letters Patent.
Patented May 4, 1915.
' Application filed December 28. 1810. Serial No. 599,008.
To all whom it may concern:
Be it known that I, Pam J. Wnn'rwon'rn,
' a citizen of the United States, residing at Boston, in the county of Suffolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain Imrovements in Apparatus for Use in the Klanufacture of Boots and Shoes, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures.
This invention relates to the manufacture of boots and shoes and particularly to machines for use in making welt shoes. In making these shoes the upper materials in cluding the heel stiffener are lasted over the heel seat end of the innersole and permanently tacked down about as far forward as the breast of the heel or the rear end of the channel lip or rib of the innersole on each side. From thence forwardly on each side to the toe the upper materials, including the end portions of the heel stifl'ener, are lasted against the lip or rib of the innersole and secured by temporary or primary fastenings. Thereafter the shoe is subjected to the operation of the Welter or welt sewing machine by which, simultaneously with the attachment of the welt, the upper materials are permanently sewed to the lip or rib of the innersole. The outersole is then sewed to the welt around thesides and toe and nailed to the innersole at the heel seat, the ends of the welt being beveled oil and fastoned down between the outer and inner-soles. It is important to the shape and appearance of the shoe that the welt ends be symmetrically located on the two sides of the shoe and uniformly on all shoes of a size and style and to this and other ends it is desirable that the welt sewing machine operator start and end his seam symmetrically and uniformly. Also it is obviously not only desirable but important that he be enabled to sew close up to the end tacks that have been driven in the heel seat lasting and that he be able to do this without disturbing those tacks. As a matter of fact, it has heretofore been next to impossible to insert the channel guide of the sewing machine in position to begin the seam close to the end tack on one side or to retain it in position to sew close to the end tack on the other side because of the flange of the heel .stiflener which is held down flat by the heel s' eat tacks and must be bent up against the lip -or rib of the innersole to sew it. The-stiffness of this flan e makes the sewing diflicult and causes upli ting of the end tacks. One important element in this difliculty is found in the obstinancy with which the flange ofvthe stiflener resists bending into an upri ht position for sewing against the lip or riE of the innersole. Special apparatus has been devised for repairing the deficiencies left by reason of those conditions as described for example in printed British specification No. eases 0s.
An im ortant object of this invention is to reme y these difficulties and a general o ject 15 to facilitate and economize in the manufacture of welt shoes and to secure a better product. To this end an important feature of this invention consists in means for marking the shoe for the beginning and the ending of the welt attaching seam. This marking will preferably be made as a cut into the face of the overlaid upper material on the heel seat. A further feature of this invention consists in provision for extending the marking cut through the upper and through the flan e of the heel stiffener. For the best results t ese cuts will be located immediately in front of the front heel seat tack on each side of the shoe and \villfdisconnect the portion of the flange which is or is to be fastened down by the heel seat tacks from the end portions which are to be lasted up against the lip or shoulder of the innersole. This enables both portions of the flange to be better lasted in place and eliminates liability of loosenin the heel seat tacks while sewing. It also acilitates the sewing operation because it makes easier the presentation of the shoe for the first stitch to be made close to the heel seat tack and for the stitch to be inserted down close to the base of the lip or rib. This result is also made more certain by another feature of the invention which will later be mentioned. It facilitates the continuation of the seam close up to the heel seat tack on the side of the shoe where, the sewing is finished because it allows the channel guide of the sewing machine, which is located in advance of the needle, to pass through the slit and over the material that has been tacked down whereas formerly it was stopped and the machine could sew no farther when the channel guide encountered and tacked down material.
In accordance with an important-feature of this invention apparatus 1s provided for-- marking and slitting the stock at the two sides of the shoe at the same distance from the heel end of the shoe and, preferably, for doin this at the two sides of the shoe simu taneously. Provision is made for convenient adjustment for marking shoes of different sizes. In accordance with another feature of this invention the' marking or cutting apparatus is associated with a ast ing mechanism. By this combination the shoe is marked or cut while it is jacked for the lasting operation and separate handling and jacking of the shoe is avoided. Preferably also an element of the lasting mechanism constitutes the gage with relation to which the shoe is positioned for the operation of the marking mechanism. In accordance with still a further feature of the mvention the marking apparatus is connected with heel seat lasting mechanism for actuation automatically when the. lasting mechanism is operated. By this important arrangement the marking of the shoe 1s done accurately and without consuming the time required for a separate operation. Advantageously the apparatus is arranged so that the operator of the lasting machine must use it and opportunity does not exist for an indifl'erent workman to neglect it. The cuts are preferably made in advance of the full closing of the heel lasting wipers so that said wipers may lay the heel stifl'ener flange down upon the heel seat without resistance, from the end portions of the flange which are to be lasted up against the li or rib of the innersole. The cutters are a so, preferably, positioned automatically by the lasting mechanism with relation to the side edges of the shoe to locate the cuts at the same distances inward from the edges of the shoe bottom on wide and narrow shoes and on the two sides of an unsymmetrical last.
In accordance with another feature of this invention auxiliary lasting means are provided for doing the dillicult work of shaping the end portions of the stiiiener flari'ge up against the lip or rib of the innersole. These auxiliary lasting means or flange shapers as they may be designated are shown as located in advance of the ends of the heel seat lasting plates or heel wipers and as arranged to have not only an overlaying movement like the wiping movement of the heel wipers but a rubbing movement lengthwise of the shoe to crease the shoe stock, including the stiffener flange, into the angle formed at the junction of the channel lip and feather of the innersole. This is an operation which has sometimes been done in fine hand shoema-king with a suitably shaped tool made of bone and has been called boning.
These and other features of the invention, including certain combinations of parts and more important details of construction, will more fu 1y appear from the following description of a machine in which the invention is herein shown as embodied for illustrative purposes and will then be pointed out in the claims.
Figure 1 is a plan view of a heel lasting mechanism with which this invention is combined. Fi 2-is a side elevation. Fig. 3 is a front en view, Fig. 4 is a perspective view,-and Fig. 5 is a=perspective view of the same shoe at a later stage.
The illustrative machine comprises heel lasting mechanism which may be of the same type and general construction, exce t as hereinafter specified, as that described 1n United States patent to Matthias Brock N 0. 1,018,477, granted Feb. 27, 1912, which forms part of a lasting machine known commercially as the No. 5 'laster. It will be sufficient to state that with the shoe support which is indicated at 2 is associated the heel lasting head 1 which carries a heel embracing band 6. This band is connected to the head at its rear end and. the front ends have band supporting and closing connections 8 with slide bars 10 attached to the cross head 12 of a plunger 14 that is actuated yieldingly through spring 15 to clamp theupper materials about the heel end of the last on support-'2. Heel lasting plates or wipers 16 are guided on the head 2 for advancing and closing movements to fold the upper materials inwardly over the edge of the shoe and lay them down for the heel seat. These wipers 16 or the cam plates 18 on whichthey are carried are connected by links 19 with a plunger 20 that is connected at its rear end to the operating lever which has a fulcrum link connection 24 to the head 4. The heel band is closed first and the wipers then are actuated.
Upon the upper face of the heel band at its two ends are attached plates in which are cam slots 32 that receive a guide stud 34 depending from the auxiliary lasting devices or flange shapers 35 the rearwardly extending operating arms of which are pivotally connected to the end portions of the heel wipers 16. The heel band positions the flange shapers relatively to the edge of the shoe when it closes and the wipers 16, when they advance and close force the flange shapers forwardl in an inwardly directed course determin by the slots 32 and also turn the flange creasers.
Rearward extensions from the heel band closing slide bars 10 are connected to the inturnecl ends of other slides 42 which are guided in ways in the head 4 and at their front ends have cam slots that receive studs on the rear ends of levers 45. These levers are fulcrumed to the head at Hand are connccted at their front ends with blocks 46 that slide in dovetailed ways in the head. Upon these blocks are pivoted at 48 knife carriers 49 in which the knife levers 50 are pivoted (Fig. 3) and normally upheld by springs 52 to maintain the blades 54 well above the plane of the shoe bottom, the uppermost position of the shoe being limited by a gage fin er 17 on one ofthe heel wipers 16. The knife levers 50 each have a rounded hump over which stands thebroad end of ar' lever 55. These levers are fulcrumed at 56 to a bracket on the machine head and on their rear arms have rolls 58 in the path of cam plates 60 on a cm bar 62 which is guided for movement in the head by a plunger 65 that moves endwise through an eye in the frame. This plunger 65 is connected at its rear end to the wiper operating lever 25. The wiper guiding portion of the head is movable relatively to the main portion of the head 4 by a screw 21 about the longitudinal axis of the plunger 20 and as the plunger 65 is guided in the stationary portion of thehead the Gloss-bar 62 has an arc-shaped slot for the front end of the plunger. As premised above the knife carriers 49 are pivoted on the sliding blocks 46. The outer ends of the knife carriers are connected, (Fig. 2) with links that have a. slotted connection at 72 with the fulcrum studs '56 and are attached to arms 73 of a to move the blocks 46 and the rock shaft 74 vwhich can be turned by its handle arm 7 5 in brackets 76 rising from the head. One of the brackets 76 is extended upward and has a segmental notched upper edge with which engages a locking pawl 78 carried by the handle arm '7 5. The segment may have size marks indicated adjacent to the notches to indicate the adjustment of the knife carriers 49 toward or from the rear end of the heel band for the size of shoe thati is in the machine and embraced by the With this construction the invention may be used as follows: The shoe having been jacked on the support 2 against the gage 17 and the heel band closed about the woe the handled arm can be made to set the knife carriers about the pivots 48, Fig. 1, forwardly or backwardly for the size of the shoe. The advance movement of the slide bars 10 in effecting the closing of the heel band will have carried forwardly the links 40 and the slides 42 and turned the lovers 45 knife carriers 49 inwardlv in accordance with the width of the shoe. The length bf the lever arms and the shape of the cam slots in the ends of links 42 are such that the knives are moved from a. position outside the contour of the band first rapidly inwardly until they are inside the band and then in proportion to the closing movement of the band ends until they are over the shoe in position to make the cuts from a point removed from the shoe edge about the width of the feather of the innersole to a point far enough in to slit the heel stiffening flange to its edge. The advance of the wiper operating lever 25 at once advances the cams 60 on the cross bar 62 under the rolls on the levers 55 and causes them to depress momentarily the knife levers 50, force the cutters through the heel stifl'ener flange and then release them after which the springs 52 raise them out of the path of the advancing wipers in case the wipers extend as far forward as the cutters. In the return stroke or retraction of the wiper operating lever 25 the cams 60 again throw down the knife levers 50 and if the first cut did not go down deep enou h the second will complete the incision. A the second stroke insures cutting through the overwiped upper which may not have been in position to be cut properly in the first stroke of the knives. The advance of the wipers also advances and turns the flange creasers and causes them to rub forwardly for shaping the upper and stiffener flange against the feather and upstanding lip of the innersole. On the retraction of the wipers, another stroke of the creasers is effected. While the creasers hold the flange bent and crowded into place a lasting tack may be driven if necessary to fasten the flange down where it 'is to be sewn. This operation prepares the shoe for the sewing so that the upper and the flange are lasted-in where they belong and can be sewed down against the base of the channel lip or rib at and near the rear ends of the seam as well as the upper materials are secured at any other parts of the shoe.
It has heretofore been proposed to provide a stock fitting machine arranged to support a channeled innersole before it is incorporated in the shoe and, before the channel lip is turned up, to cut down through the channel lip of the innersole at the rear end of the portion of the lip which is to be turned u The present invention is to be clearly distinguished from such a machine in that it contemplates an operation on an assembled shoe the innersole of which may or may not have been prepared on the machine referred to. The devices embodying the present invention operate on the upper materials, inclu the heel stiffener flange and only inciden y, if at all, engage the innersole. The cuts made by the knives 54 through the upper material begin at a distance from the edge of the shoe where the cuts made by the prior machine terminate although the cuts made in the innel'sole by the prior machine are entirely covered by the overlasted flanges of the upper and heel stifl'ener in the lasted shoe. The present machine preferably comprises provision for locating the cuts at a measured distance inwardly from the shoe edge which corresponds with the width of the channel lip or the feather of the innersole. That improvement in method of making shoes which is herein disclosed is not claimed in this application but forms the subject-matter of a divisional application, Serial No. 738,707, filed Dec. 26, 1912.
Having explained the nature of this invention and described a preferred construction embodying the same, I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States 1. A machine of the class described having, in combination, means for supporting a shoe, means for lasting the heel seat, and means positioned as an incident to the lasting operation for marking the heel seat at each side adjacent to the heel breast location at a measured distance from the heel end face of the shoe.
2. A machine of the class described having, in combination, means for supporting a shoe, means for lasting the heel seat, and means for forming cuts in the lasted over upper materials on the innersole at each side of the heel, said means being arranged to locate the cuts with their outer ends a substantial distance inside the edge of the shoe bottom.
3. A machine of the class describedhaving, in combination, means for supporting a shoe, means for lasting an end portion of the shoe, and means operated automatically during the actuation of the lasting means to mark the shoe bottom, said means being arranged to locate the mark entirely inside that portion of the shoe bottom which is visible in the rand crease of the finished shoe.
4. A machine of the class described having, in combination, means for supporting a shoe, means for lasting an end portion of the shoe, cutters arranged to form incisions extending from a point-located a substantial distance inside the shoe edge toward the edge of the lasted over upper, and automatic means for operating said cutters during the operation of the lastin means.
5. A machine of the class escribed having, in combination, means for supporting a shoe, wipers movable for lasting an end portion of the shoe, cutters for the shoe materials, and means for moving said cutters during a portion only of the period of movement of said wipers.
6. A machine of the class described having, in combination, means arranged for supportin ashoe with a last therein, said means including a spindle upon which the last may be mounted,.and means constructed and shoe at a the heel and face of the location for an arranged to mark the measured distance from the shoe for indicatin end of the welt attachin seam.
7. A machine of the c ass described having, in combination, means for supporting a shoe with a last therein, said means including a s indle upon which the last may be mounte a heel band for engaging the rear end face of the shoe, and means constructed and located with reference to said end engaging means to mark the shoe bottom at a measured distance from the heel end face of the shoe and simultaneously at the two sides of the shoe for indicating the location for the ends of the welt attaching seam.
8. A machine of the class described having, in combination, means for supportin a shoe and means constructed and arrange to cut down through the upper and the flange of the heel stiffener at the location for the division line between the tacked heel seat and the sewed inseam, said machine having provision for positioning the cutting means to locate the cuts entirely inside the portion of the shoe bottom which is visible in the rand crease of the completed shoe.
9. A machine of the class described having, in combination, means for supportin a shoe and means constructed and arrange to .cut down through the upper and the flange of the heel stiffener at the location for the division line between the tacked heel seat and the sewed inseam, said cutting means being adjustable for shoes of difi'erent sizes. 10. A machine of the class described havmg, in combination, means for supporting a shoe, means constructed and arranged to cut down through the upper and the flange of the heel stiffener-at the location for the division line between the tacked heel seat and the sewed inseam, means for lasting down upon the heel seat the upper materials, in-
cluding said stiffener flange 1n the rear of the cut, and means for lasting up against the lip of the insole said materials in advance of the cut. 1 V
11. A machine of the class described having, in combination, means for supporting a shoe, means constructed and arranged mark the shoe bottomon the side thereof in a location remote from the shoe ends and determined with reference to the heel end of the shoe, lasting means, and connected mechanism for operating the marking means and the lasting means.
12. A machine of the classdescribed having, in combination, means for supporting a shoe, means constructed and arranged to cut down through the upper and the flange of the heel stilfener at the location for the division line between the tacked heel seat and the inseam, heel seat lasting means, and connected mechanism for operating the cutting means and the lasting means.
13. A machine of the class described having, in combination, means for supporting a shoe, means constructed and arranged to cut down through the upper and the flange of the heel stiffener at the location for the division line between the tacked heel seat and the inseam, and lasting means arranged to operate on the shoe while it is supported for the operation of the cutting means.
14. A machine of the class described having, in combination, end lasting means, means to operate it, and a plurality of shoe marking devices arranged to be automatically reciprocated simultaneously into and out of contact with the shoe bottom during a portion only of the movement of the lastmg means.
15. A machine of the class described having, in combination, end lasting means, means to operate it, and shoe marking devices arranged to be automatically moved twice into and out of markin contact with the shoe bottom during the advance and retraction of the lastin means.
16. A machine of the class described having, in combination, end lasting means, operating mechanism for moving the lasting means in substantiallv the plane of the shoe bottom, and marking means arranged at opposite sides of the shoe end to be reciprocated automatically perpendicularly to said plane during the actuation of the end lasting means.
17. A machine of the class described having, in combination, means for engaging the end face of a shoe, marking devices positioned therefrom lengthwise of the shoe and arranged to assume marking positions substantially invariable in relation to the side edges of the shoe bottom and variable in relation to the median line of the bottom for different sizes of shoes, and means whereby said devices may be actuated to mark a shoe.
18. A machine of the class described having, in combination, means for engaging the end face of a shoe on a last, cutters ar ranged to be positioned therefrom over the last bottom, and means for actuating said cutters to form slits in the shoe bottom, the parts of the machine being arranged to permit the presentation of the shoe assembled upon its last against the end face engaging means and under the cutters.
19. A machine of the class described having. in combination. a heel embracin band, means for closing the band around t e heel portion of a shoe, and marking devices positioned by said band lengthwise and laterally over a shoe bottom.
20. A machine of the class described having, in combination, means relatively to which a shoe is positioned lengthwise, knives at each side of the shoe that have their longitudinal relation to the shoe determined thereby, means for actuating the knives inwardly over the shoe, and means for depressing the knives to slit the upper materials on the shoe bottom.
21. A machine of the class described havmg, in combination, end lasting wipers, slitters positioned automatically with relation to the end lasting wipers to slit an upper at the breast of the heel seat after it has been bent inwardly over the heel seat by the wlpers, and means for imparting to the wipers and the slitters separate movements in time relation.
22, A machine of the class described havmg, in combination, end lasting wipers, slitters arranged to operate inside the wipers after the wipers have closed over the edge of the shoe bottom, and connected means for actuating the wipers and the slitters in directions perpendicular to each other.
23. A machine of the class described having, in combination, end lasting wipers, slitters, and connected means for actuating the slitters to effect two cutting strokes to each reciprocation of the wipers.
24. A machine of the class described having, in combination, end lasting wipers, slitters, and connected means for actuating the slitters to cut in advance of the movement of the wipers over the shoe bottom and again after said movement.
25. A machine of the class described having, in combination, end lasting wipers, slitters and wiper operating means arranged to actuate the slitters during the first part of its advance and again during the last part of its retraction.
26. A machine of the class described having, in combination, slitters, end lasting means in the rear of the slitters, other lasting means in front of the slitters, and con nected means to impart separate movements to said slitters and lasting means. i
27. A machine of the class described having, in combination, slitters to slit the upper materials at the locations for the rear ends of the inseam and lasting means to crease the upper materials to the formation of the innersole in advance of the slits.
28. A machine of the class described having, in combination, slitters movable later-' ally over a shoe from opposite sides and then downwardly to do their work, and means to support the shoe against their downward thrust.-
29. A machine of the class described having, in combination, devices arranged to receive between them a shoe upon its last and adapted for measuring along the side of the shoe from the heel end face forwardly a predetermined distance and for cutting through the upper and heel stiffener flange at said measured distance from the heel end of the shoe.
30. A machine of the class described having, in combination, devices for measuring shoe from along the side of a shoe from the heel end face forwardly a predetermined distance and for. cutting through the upper and heel stifiener flange at said measured distance from the heel end of the shoe, said out starltmg from a measured distance inward of the shoe bottom and from the side ed extending inward y to. the edge of the upper.
31. .A machine of the class described havin in combination, devices arranged to recelve between them a shoe upon its last and adapted for measuring along the side of the the heel end face forwardly a selected distance at each side of the shoe and for marking the upper at such measured distance for the end 0 the inseam.
32. A machine of the class described having, in combination, a shoe su port, means arranged with reference to sai support for ascertainin the location for an end of the inseam an operating mechanism for said means to cause it to mark said location.
33. A machine of the class described having, in combination, a shoe support, means arranged with reference to sai support for ascertaining the location for ending the welt attaching seam and operating mechanism for said means to cause it to cut through the upper and heel stifiener flange at that lo cation to make a passageway for the sewing machine channel guide to emer e from the channel and ass over the tacke down portion of the ange in sewing the end of the inseam.
34. A lastin machine having, in combi nation, means or lasting the heel seat of a shoe and means for parting the heel stiffener flange at the inseam on location to enable the channel guide of the inseam sewing machine to ass through the flange m sewing the end 0 the inseam.
35. A lastin machine having, in combithe heel seat of a nation, means or last-Egg shoe and means adap for adpistment to nal portion of the part the overlasted mar upper materials and hes stifl'ener at the location for the end of the 36. A lasting machine having, in combi nation, means for lasting the heel seat of a shoe, and adjustable means to part the overlasted flange of the upper and heel stiffener at the location for the end of the inseam for the purpose described, actuating devices for the heel seat lasting means an connections for actuating sai flange parting means from said devices.
37. A lasting machine having, in combination, means for lasting the heelseat of a shoe, heel seat lasting wipers adapted to wipe over the upper materials on the heel seat, and means to cut down through said materials on the heel seat after they are overwi ed.
38. lastingJ machine having, in combination, a plura 'ty of lasting devices adapted for actuation durin the same operation of the machine to pro nee diiferent lasting effects, and means to part the upper between said devices.
39. A machine for lasting hpped mnersoles having, in combination, hee seat lastmg wipers and means operating in advance of the operation of the lasting means for partin the 11 per material at the ends of the lip mm at which is to be lasted down.
40. A machine of the class described having, in combination, an end embracing band, a pair of cutters mounted to be positioned over the shoe bottom by said band, and means for actuating the cutters to do their work.
41. A machine of the class described having, in combination, a heel embracing band, a pair of cutters arranged to be ositioned over the shoe bottom by said ban said cutters being arranged for adjustment for different sizes of shoes, and means for actuating the cutters substantially perpendicularly to the plane of the shoe bottom to do their work.
42. A machine of the class described having, in combination, a heel embracing band, means for closing the band ends a alnst the sides of the shoe at the front end 0 the heel, cutters mounted to be sitioned over the front of the heel seat in accordance with the band closing movement, heel seat wipers, and means for actuating the cutters when the wi ers are operated.
43. machine for lasting uppers over channeled innersoles having, in combination, end lasting wipers, auxiliary lasting devices located in front of the operative ends of the wipers, and actuatingmeansfor advancing and closing the wipers and for imparting an independent movement to the auxiliary devices lengthwise of the shoe.
44. A machine for lasting uppers over channeled innersoles having, in combination, end lasting wipers, auxiliary lasting devices located in front of the wipers, means independent of the wipers to position said devices in accordance with the shape of the shoe, and connected means for actuating the wi ers and devices to do their work.
45. machine for lasting uppers over channeled innersoles having, in combination, end lasting wipers, auxiliary lasting devices located in front of the wipers, means independent of the wipers to position said devices in accordance with the shape of the shoe, cams for controllingi the path of operative movement of said evices, and means for actuating the wipers and advancing the devices.
46. A machine for lasting uppers over channeled innersoles having, in combination, end lasting wipers, auxiliary lasting devices located in front of the wipers, cams heel seats over III:
for determinin the path of the wipers, separate cams or determining the path of the devices, and connected means for actuating the wipers and devices.
47. A machine for lasting uppers over channeled innersoles having, in combination, end lasting wipers, auxiliary lasting devices located in front of the wipers, means independent of the wipers to position said devices in accordance with the shape of the shoe, cams for directing the course of movement of the wipers, separate cams for directing the course of advance of the devices, means for operating the wipers, and connections for also eflecting operation of said devices. i
48. A machine for lasting uppers .over channeled innersoles having, in combination, end lasting wipers, auxiliary lasting devices located in front of the wipers, a heel band upon which said devices are supported, means for causing said band to embrace the heel end of the last and position said devices in accordance with the shape of the embraced shoe, and connected means for actuating the wipers and said positioned devices to do their work. i
49. A machine of the class described having, in combination, a heel band, heel band closing slide bars, cam slot slides actuated from said slide bars, cutters positioned over the shoe bottom by the action of said cam slot slides, and means for actuating the cutters to do their work. A
50. A machine of the class described having, in combination, a heel band, heel band closing slide bars, cam slot slides actuated from said slide bars, cutter slides arranged to be advanced toward the shoe by movement derived from said cam slots, cutter levers pivoted relatively to said slides, means for adjusting the cutters about their pivots for adjustment for the size of the shoe, and means for actuating the cutters to do their Work.
51. A machine of the class described having, in combination, cutter levers extending inwardly over the shoe bottom from opposite sidesof a shoe, cutters on said levers, means for efl'ecting adjustment of said levers lengthwise-of the shoe for the size of the shoe, and means for rocking said levers to cause the cutters to cut through the flange of the up er materials.
52. machine of the class described having, in combination, cutter levers extending inwardly over the shoe bottom from opposite sides of a shoe, cutters on said levers, means for effecting adjustment of said levers lengthwise of the shoe for the size of the shoe, and means for rocking said levers to cause the cutters to cut through the flange of the upper materials.
53. A machine of the class described having, in combination, a heel band, heel band closing slide bars, cam slot slides actuated from said slide bars, cutters positioned over the shoe bottom by the action of said cam slot slides, levers overlying the cutters, and means for actuating said overlying levers to cause the cutters to do their work.
54. A machine of the class described having, in combination, a heel band, heel band closing slide bars, cam slot slides actuated from said slide bars, cutters positioned over the shoe bottom by the action of said cam slot slides, wipers, means for actuating the wipers, levers overlying the cutters and a cam operated by the wiper actuating mechanism to depress the cutters momentarily to do their work.
55. A machine of the class described having, in combination, a heel band, heel band closing slide bars, cam slot slides actuated from said slide bars, cutters positioned over the shoe bottom by the action of said cam slot slides, wipers, means for actuating the wipers, levers overlying the cutters, and cams operated by the wiper actuating mechanism during its advance stroke and again during its return stroke to depress the cutters repeatedly.
56. A machine of the class described having, in combination, cutters 54, carriers by which they are positioned over the shoe bottom, cutter depressing levers 55, wipers, wiper actuating means, cams 60, and connections therefrom to said actuating means for causing the cams to rock the depressing levers for the purpose described.
57 A machine of the class described, having, in combination, cutters 54, levers 50 on which the cutter arecarried, depressor levers 55, wipers and a wiper closing lever 25, and cams 60 operated by the closing lever to rock the depressors for forcing the cutters into the work.
58. A machine of the class described having, in combination, cutters 54, levers 50 on which the cutters are carried, means foractuating the cutters, pivoted blocks 49 on which the levers 50 are mounted, an adjusting lever 75 and link connections fromthe lever 75 to said blocks for adjusting the two 'cgtters simultaneously lengthwise of the s cc.
59. A heel seat lasting mechanism having, in combination, heel seat lasting wipers formed and arranged to embrace the heel end of a last for wiping the upper over the entire heel seat at one operation, devices to crease the flange of the upper materials into the angle between the feather and the lip or rib of a welt innersole in front of the heel seat, and means for actuating said wipers and devices.
60. A heel seat lasting mechanism having, in combination, heel seat lasting wipers formed and arranged to embrace the heel end of a last for wiping the upper over the 1 crease the flange of the upper materials into wi rs, and connections for also advancing the angle between the feather and the lip an turning the devices to do their work. or rib of a welt innersole in front of the bee 67 An end lasting mechanism hav' in seat, and means for actuating said wipers combination, an end'embracing band, paces 70 and for advancing said devicwlengthwise carried by said band and having slots doof the shoe to do their work. vices mounted on said plates to overlie the 61. A heel seat lasting mechanism having, shoe edge and means for actuating said dea in combination, heel seat lasting wipers, devices lengthwise of the shoe in sa d slots to 10 vices to crease the flange of the u per matecrease the upper into the angle between the 75 rials into the angle betweenthe eather and feather and 11p of an innersole, the lip or rib of a welt innersole, means for 68. Anend astin mechanism having, in actuating said wipers, connections throu h combination, an en embracing band, and which said devices are advanced by e a creasing device arranged positio ed 15 wipers to crease the upper, and means sepsi relatively to the shoe edge by said band and so rate from the wipers for controlling the movable therealong tocrease the u per into path of said devices. the angle between. the feather and t e lip'of 62. A heel seat lasting mechanism having, aninnerso e. j in combination, heel seat lasting wipers, de- 69. An: end lastin mechanism'having, in vices to crease the flange of the iipper natecombination, an en embracing band, creasso rials into the angle between the eather and ing, devices arranged to be positioned over a the lip or rib of a welt innersole, means for the shoe edge. at each side of the shoe by advancing and closing the wipers, and guidsaid band, guiding means on said band for, ing means wherethrou h said devices are said devices, and means for actuating said 5 caused to partake of e wiper advancing devices lengthwise of the shoe to crease'the so movement only. upper, substantially as described. 63. A heel seat lasting mechanism having, 70. An end lasting mechanism having, in in combination, heel seat lasting wipers, ecombination, an end embracing band, cam vices to crease the flange of the ufpper mate- 1 plates on the ends of the band, creasers so rials into the angle between the eatlier and mounted on said cam plates, wipers towhich the lip or rib of a welt innersole, means for the creasers are connected, and means for positioning the devices over the shoe bottom, actuating the wipers to do their work and and connections with the wipers whereby to move the creasers to crease the u per into said devices are advanced to rub lengthwise the angle between the feather and t e lip of entire heel seat at one operation, devices to edge of the shoe, means ,for actuating the as of the shoe when the wipersare closed. the innersole in advance of the wipers. 64. A heel seat lasting mechanism having, 71. A machine arranged to receive a last in combination, heel seat lastin'gwipers, de with a shoe thereon, cutters, means for p0 vices to crease the flange of the upper matesitioning said cutters over the shoe bottom rials into' the angle between the feather and at a measured distance from the edge of. the
1 40 the lip or rib of a welt innersole, means for shoe, and means for actuat ng the cutters positioning thedevices over the shoe botto make slits in the material of the shoe tom, and means for-turning said devices on bottom. 1 g 1 said positioning means and advancing them 72. A machine arranged toreceive' a last to crease the upper lengthwise of the shoe with a shoe thereon, cutters arranged to be 45 edges when the wipers are advanced and positioned automatically to slit sh e botclosed. 1 i i 1 tom'by a cut starting fromiat' or near the "65. A heel seat lasting mechanism having, location of the u turned innersole lip and in combination, heel seat lasting wipers, deextending inward and means for actuat-' vices to crease the flange of the u per matein said cutters. 80' rials into the angle between the ether and 3. A machine of the class described hav the lip or rib of a welt innersole, a heel emng, in combination, lasting devices ior last'-' bracing bandupon which the devices are mg the upper down upon the heel seat of mounted and. carried over the'edge of the the shoe, other lasting devices'for lasting shoe, and connected means for actuating the the upper against the innersole lip, cutters 55 wipers and advancing the devices lengtharranged'to form slits in opposite edges of wise of the-shoe edge to crease the upper a vamp to separate the marginal portion into said angle. that is to be lasted down from the portion 66.- A heel seat lasting mechanism having, that is to be lasted against the innersole lip, in combination, heel seat lasting wipers, deand means for actuating the cutters.
' G0 vices to crease the flange of the upper mate- 74. A machine of the class described havrials into the angle between t e feather ing, in combination, cutters to form slits in and the lip or rib of a welt innersole, a heel opposite edges of a vamp to separate the embracing band upon which said devices are marginal portion that is to be lasted down mounted for pivotal and sliding movement from the portion that Is to be lasted against 65 and by which they are positionedover the the inner-sole lip, means to support the work 110 and position the cutters to insure location of the slits to extend from about the line along which the vamp is to be secured to the innersole of the shoe to the edge of the vamp,
and means to actuate the cutters to slit the work,
75. A machine of the class described having, in combination, means for supporting a last with an insole thereon, means for fixing the lengthwise position of the last in the machine, and marking means movable from the side inwardly over the last bottom and constructed and arranged with reference to said positioning means to mark the shoe stock on the bottom of the last at a measured distance from the heel end face of the last.
7 6. A machine of the class described having, in combination, means for supporting a last with an insole thereon, means for fixing the lengthwise position of the last in the machine, marking devices positioned lengthwise of the last with reference to an end face of said last, and movable inwardly from opposite sides over the last bottom, and means whereby said devices may be operated to mark the shoe stock on the last.
77. A machine of the class described having, in combination, a marking device. means for gaging the position of a last to cause said marking device to sustain a suitable relation thereto for marking the shoe stock on the last bottom at a determined distance from an end face of the last, means for moving said device laterally over the last to a position predetermined with reference to the side of the last, and means whereby said device may be operated to mark the shoe stock.
78. A machine of the class described having, in combination, a marking device, means for gaging the position of a last and for relatively moving said device and the last laterally with respect to the last to cause said marking device to sustain a suitable .relation to the last bottom for marking the location for an end of the welt attaching seam, and means whereby said device,
may be operated to mark the shoe stock on the bottom of the last;
79. A machine of the class described having, in combination, marking devices, means for gaging the position of the rear end face of a last to cause said devices to project forwardly in position for marking the location for the ends of the welt attaching seam, said devices being movable laterally over the last to positions predetermined with reference to the sides of the last, and means whereby said devices ma be operated to mark the shoe stock on t e bottom of the last.
In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.
MABEL E. DnmoK, ARTHUR L. RUSSELL.
It is'hereby certified that in LettersPatent No. 1,138, 584, granted May 4, 1915,
upon the application of Pearl J. Wentworth, of Boston, Massachusetts, for an improvement in "Apparatus for Use in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes, an
error appears in the printed specification requiring correction as follows: Page 2,
line 6, for the word and read the; and that the said Letters Patent should be read with this correction therein that the same may conform to the record of the case in the Patent Oflice.
Signed and sealed this 25th day of January, A. D., 1916.
[mun] R. F. WHITEHEAD,
Acting Commissioner of Patents.
US59990810A 1910-12-29 1910-12-29 Apparatus for use in the manufacture of boots and shoes. Expired - Lifetime US1138584A (en)

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US738707A US1138585A (en) 1910-12-29 1912-12-26 Method for use in the manufacture of boots and shoes.

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4602398A (en) * 1981-02-09 1986-07-29 Usm Corporation Machine for lasting the heel of a shoe with a wiper assembly

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4602398A (en) * 1981-02-09 1986-07-29 Usm Corporation Machine for lasting the heel of a shoe with a wiper assembly

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