US1119A

US1119A - Mode oe cutting the bodies of coats ist owe piece

Info

Publication number: US1119A
Authority: US
Publication date: 1839-04-10
Anticipated expiration: 1856-04-10

Description

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

WILLIAM M. VISVVELL, OF PORTLAND, MAINE.

MODE OF CUTTING THE BODIES OF COAIS IN ONE PIECE.

Specification of Letters Patent No. 1,119', dated .April 10, 1839.

To all whom t may concern Be it known that I, WILLIAM M. I/VIS- wnLL, of Portland, in the county of Cumberland and State of Maine, have invented a new and Improved Mode of Cutting and Making Coats, whereby much labor and eX- pense is saved in cutting and making coats; and I do hereby declare that the following specifications are a full and exact description thereof.

The nature of my improvement is to out and make the coat without any back or side seams, or lapel seams, and is done in the following manner: After taking the breast measure and folding the cloth, as is done in the old method of cutting, I measure down from the top end of the cloth, at A, of the breast measure to B. Then I strike off horizontal or parallel with the top end of cloth, l of the breast measure to N. Then I measure down on the back to C, lg of the breast measure. Then, taking A as a center, I sweep from C to N, which gives one half of the shape of the neck. Then I measure from C to D, which is of the breast measure. Then I strike a horizontal line from D to Gr, il, of the breast measure and one size, which makes the back scye point. Then I measure down from D to E, according to the shape of the man, whatever the length may be, to the level of the arm-pits, and strike the line E, F, according to the size of the man. From F to H is of the breast measure, which makes the front scyepoint. This point I also call the pivot. From C, through G and I-I I draw a straight line to J and of breast measure. This gives about an average shape or capacity of the breast of the coat, but may be longer or shorter, as the fancy may be for lapping the breasts. From H to I( in front is of the breast measure, and then from K to L 1s :l and 1f of breast measure, which makes the top of the shoulder seam in front. From I-I to M is i of breast measure. From G to M is 1,- of breast measure lacking one size. From G to H is f2, of breast measure and one size. The lines N, O and L, M should be equal in length, as they make the shoulder seam when brought together. From I-I to J is JH; and 3g of the breast measure. The line A, B, C, D, P, is the length of the back and is, in length, according to the length of the man and also according to taste and fashion. I call the point H, which is the front scye, the pivot. From H, I draw the lines H, P,- H, Q,-I-I, R,-H, S,-H, J, and H, T. These lines I also call the pivot measures. The length of each of these lines is no exact part of the breast measure, but is according to taste, fancy and fashion. The piece Q, R, V, is taken out and the lines Q, R, and V, It, are brought together to make a proper lit of the coat around the waist and over the hips and is no exact proportion, but according to the shape of the man. From l?, Q, to u, w, is the length and size of the back skirt. The body of the coat and back skirt are cut whole, having no seams, but the shoulder seam made by the lines N, O, and L, M, brought together. The front skirt is fitted on as is usual in making coats, after the old method of cutting, and is represented in the drawing by the piece V, R, X, IV.

lVhat I claim as my own invention and improvement and wish distinctly to secure by these specifications and drawings accompanying the same is The improvement or principle of cutting and making the body and back skirt of the coat whole, having no seam therein, but the seam upon the shoulder made by the union of the two equal lines L, M and N, O. To the other parts, the fitting of the collar, sleeves and front skirt, and any other appendages I lay no claim.

This mode of cutting and making extends to straight coats, surtouts, round jack-coats and pea jack-coats.

In testimony that the foregoing specifications are a full, clear and exact description and explanation of my said impro-vement in cutting and making coats, surtouts, round jack-coats, and pea jack-coats I have hereunto set my hand and seal this sixteenth day of March, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and thirty nine.

WILLIAM M. IVISIVELL.

In presence of- JONATHAN MORGAN, J. G. ToLronD.