US1096827A - Two-toned rimmed hat. - Google Patents

Description

G. P. COMBY. TWO-TONBD BIMMED HAT. APPLIUATION FILED IBB. 9, 1910.

1,096,827, Patented May 19, 1914.

. another color, the

ture of these hats,

GEAORGE P. COMEY, OF CLEVELAND, OHIO.

TWO-TONED RIMMED HAT.

Specification of Letters Patent. Patented lVIay 19, 1914.

Application filed February 9, 1910. Serial No. 542,931.

To all whom t may concern Be it known that I, GEQRGE P. COMEY, a citizen of the United IStates, residing at Cleveland, in thecounty of Cuyahoga .and State of Ohio, have`invented certain new and useful Improvements in Two-Toned Rimmed Hats, of which the following4 is a specification.

In the millinery industry there are hats which are termed two-toned rim hats wherein the upper surface of the rim is of one material and color and the under surface is of another material, and preferably of two pieces of material being secured together and forming the twotoned rim referred to, and in the manufacit is customary to apply a wire stifi'ener to the edge and to roll the under covering, which is usually of velvet, over this wire andto hold such covering in place by the-use of glue or some other similarmaterial. This is particularly true of the French two-toned rimmed hat, where the velvet is usually extended beyond the hat rim, and the stiffener of Wire, and is Worked over onto the upper side around the wire and fastened thereto by glue or some other similar material so that a round bead is produced on the upper side and adjacent to the edge of the hat rim. A rim finished in this way presents a v ery neat appearance but it requires considerable time to bind the edge in this manner, and moreover the edge is very frail andbecomes loose in places so that it must again be fastened down so that great care must be taken in handling the hat in order to avoid this loosening of the binding.

The present invention, therefore, relates to a hat having the edge af its rim bound in a manner such that it presents as neat an appearance as does the French hat, and further to the art of binding the rim4 of this type, of hat, whereby it is rendered durable and practical so far as utility is concerned.

In conducting the method and producing the finished article, the formed hat, which is usually of straw, is provided wlth a facing for the underside of the rim consisting preferablyjof a stiffening layer of fabric`such as buckram having secured to it the material which forms the lower facing. In the present instance this facing is velvet. Both of these thicknesses are shaped to conform to the configuration of ing of the rim, ve V the undersideof the rim of the hat. After trimming the edges of these two layers, the stifiencr of buckram and the facing of velvet, so as to correspond 4to the configuration of the edge of the rim, a narrow bias binding corresponding to the facing is secured face to face along the edge of the facing of velvet by a row of stitching which passes throu h all the thicknesses at this point. An e ge stiii'encr is then applied to these three layers for the purpose of holding the edge. in place. This edge stiidener is of wire or any other suitable material and is secured in place in the usual manner by the use of a sewing machine designed for that purpose. After this has been accomplished, then the bias binding is turned over the Wire stiffener and back upon the upper face of the rim stiffener of buckram, when the entire under facing is ready to be applied to the rim of the hat, and this is accomplished by placing the hat rim upon the buckram so that it laps over onto the edge of the binding which, as stated, has been doubled back onto the upper face of the rim stiifenerand a row of stitching is applied through the rim of the hat through the binding, through the rim stiffener of buckrain, and through the under facing, and close up to the edge of the bias binding where it doubles back from the under facing. In order that this row of stitching shall be close to this edge, I employ a form of presser foot, for the sew ing machine, having a groove on the underside thereof adjacent to and along one side of they needle from front to back and arranged to hold the bead formed b ing, as it laps over the under acing, u right and away from the surface of tiie under facing so lthat the needle may pass close beside 1t and place the row of stitching close up to its edge, whereby when the hat is removed from the machine the flattening out of the bead formed on the under factogether with the nap of et, if such a facmg is used, will entirely hide the row of stitching. Usually the thread used for this stitching is of a dif-v ferent color from the under facin and corresponds in' tone to the color 0I the rim of :the hat so that it must be hidden.

The invention still further relates, to certain details of construction of the article and to the art of producing the same as will be more clearly set forth in the accompanying specication, claim and drawings.

the bindstitching near the edge thereof; Fig. 3 'is a similar view with the edge stifener of wire 10.

or other similar material secured thereto;

n Fig. 4 shows the binding turned over the edge stifener and with the hat rim in placeg v Fig. represents the several parts 1n the position shown in Fig. 4 with the bottom side upward so that the bead engages in the groove formed on the underside of the presser foot; and Fig. 6 shows portions of the complete article with'the-bead hiding the row of stitching which secures the hat rim lto the rim stilfener and facing.

In producing the finished article, the configuration of the rim 1 is transferred or Vduplicated in a well known manner on a Fig. 3 and t sheet of stiening material 2 such as buckram `which forms a' stidener for the rim and which I will hereinafter refer to as the rim stiifener. It also forms a backing for the under facing 3 which is usually of velvet and which is secured to the stiifener 2 in any suitable manner. Therim stifener 2 as well as the facing 3 are applied tothe hat rim and cut suiiiciently sol that they conform to the edge of the rim of the hat. A bias binding 4, preferably of velvet and corresponding in shade to the facng is then secured withv its face toward vthe face of the facing andf to the rim stiflr'ener 2 by means of a row of stitching 5 which is preferably as close to the ed e of the arts as is practical. An edge sti ener 6 o wire, or other suitable material, is then sewed-'by stitches 7 to the edge of the arts 2, 3 and 4 as is shown in e binding 4 is turned over this to the drawings, Figure 1f shows other similar out of the way of,

edge sti'ener and back onto the upper face of the rim stiener 2 as is shown in Fig. 4. When the binding 4 is of bias material it will turn back nicely in the manner just described and the edge will be extremely neat.

The next step is the the hat to the rim of the parts just described, and this is accomplished by a row of stitching 8 passing through the several thicknesses of the under facing and of the rim and close to the it is folded back y In bringing stitching 8 close to theedge of the binding, a presser foot 9 is'employed having a groove 10 from front to back adjacent to the needle opening 11 whereby the wall of the groove will hold the edge of thebead close to, but the point of the needle,

edge of the binding wherev from the under facing.

thus permitting the 4 c close to this edge. 'After these stltches are formed the binding will spread out over the stitching and hide it no stitching at this point as is shown 1n Fig. 6. U n

Having described my invention, I cla1m A hat comprising a crown, a straw' rim, and an'under facing onsisting of a layer of stifi'ening, a facing layer of fabric, and a binding of fabric first secured by a row of stitching against the facing layer and near the outer edge thereof and then doubled over the same forming a finishing bead at the edge, said entire facing beingr secured to the rim of the hat by means of a row of stitching.

` In testimony whereof I aiix my signature in presence of two witnesses as follows:

Y GEORGE I. COM'EY.

Witnesses: A AL'ro'N H. BEMIS,

from view so that ordiv narily it would appear as though there wasI sewing of the rim of` about the location of the stitches to be formed

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