US1060060A - Coat. - Google Patents

Description

S. BISOEGLIA.

GOAT.

APPLIOATION FILED 11111103.1911.

.Patented Apr. 29, 1913.

SALVATORE IBISCEGILIA, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, ASSIGNOR T H. M. LINDE-NTHAL-& SONS, OIE' CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, A COPARTNERSI-IIP.

Application led March 23, '1911. Serial No. 616,336.

To all whom t may concern.'

Be it k'nown that I, SALVATORE BISCEGLIA, a citizen of the United States, residing at Chicago, in the county of Cook and State of Illinois, have invented new and useful Improvements in Coats, of which the following is a specification, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, forming a 'part thereof.

The purpose of this invention is to provide an improved construction for a coat,

in which the body of the coat is made substantially of a single piece with the minimum seams, and particularly without continuous seams at the side, and preferably without a seam at the back.

It consists in the elements and features of construction shown and described as indicated in the claim.

In the drawings the figure. is a plan view of the body piece of the coat showing in broken line the outline of the cloth lying flat as cut, and vin full line the outline of the same after the shrinking and stretching by thetailor at certain areas indicated, causing lap of certain partsfindicated in the usual manner by dotted line of the underlying portions.

The blank, A, for the body of the coat .is cut in a single piece, as shown in the drawing in the broken line outline, arm-hole recesses, A1, being made at the top, connecting at the forward side with the edges, A2, A2, which form the forward edges of the overshoulder seams, and at the rear corner with the edges, A3, A3, which constitute the rear edges of the over-shoulder seams. In order to properly form the garment when these edges are joined in the over-shoulder seams, the edge, A3, for each seam eXtends,-in the flat piece before Vshaping and seaming,- substantially at right angles to thel edge, A2, past lthe rear end of said latter edge, at a little distance therefrom, so that the angle which said edge, A3, makes at the rear corner of the arm-hole recess is a rentrant angle, protruding into said recess as clearly y shown in the broken line outline in the drawing. For a further purpose which will hereinafter appear, the arm-hole recess comprises a deeply extending lanceolate notch, a1, whose rear edge is 'concave forwardly, being designed to constitute the rear edge of the armhole recess when the seams are finislie'd, as hereinafter described, the forward Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Apr. 29, i913.

side of said lanceolate notch, a1, constituting a substantially vertical abrupt rearwardly facing shoulder, al". The piece, A, is slit from the lower point of the notches, al, in general vertical direction downward past the waist line, and a transverse slit is made at, A, leading fromvtheI vertical slit at a istance above the lower end of said vertical slit, which is preferably somewhat less than the length of the shoulder, al". Said transverse slit is located at the pocket line and, as

hereinafter explained, may serve as a pocket opening, its len th being substantially that required for suc opening., A triangular or dart-like aperture may be made by cutting from the forward end of the slit, At, back to the lower end of the vertical slitj-or this area may be folded-'inl The frontand rear edges of the vertical slit are hollowed from a point a little distance below the point of the notch, al, down to the transverse slit, A4. Side seams join the front and rear edges of the vertical slits, said edges being relatively displaced in order to be thus joined, by moving the rear edge upward to match the point thereon at which the' notch, al, terminates, with the upper end of the shoulder, am, and to match the end of the transverse slit with thelower end of the vertical slit, the difference between the distances of displacement of the lower and upper ends of the rear edge of the vertical slit being compensated by stretching the .cloth over an area, X, extending along said rear edge, by familiar tailoring processes, the purpose of which will be readily understood by a tailor to be the proper shaping of the side and back of the garment. In order to accommodate the distortion which tends to result from moving up the lower end of the vertical slit to the endof the transverse slit, which results in takin up a tri-angular area whose apex is the orward end of said transverse slit and whosefbase is the distance hangs the rear edge of the notch, and from which there extends forwardly the remainder of the outline of the armhole lrecess', the piece having also a slit extending 5 downwardly from the point of the notch to the vicinity of the waist line and having a dart-shaped opening extendingy transversely of the slit from the forward edge thereof, the relative proportions of the dart and the 10 notch being such that the closing of the dart will shift the point of the notch into registration with the aforementioned shoulder, thus eliminatin the notch and completing the outline of t e armhole recess.

In testimon whereof, I have hereunto set 15 my hand at hicago, Illinois, this 15th day of March, 1911.

SALVATORE BISCEGLIA.

Witnesses:

CHAs. S. BURTON, M. GERTRUDE ADY.

Images