UA119436U - TREATMENT-COSMETIC NUTRITION AND REGENERING CREAM - Google Patents

Abstract

The cosmetic nourishing and regenerating cream consists of the oil phase, namely almond oil refined, shea butter, rice bran wax; the aqueous phase, namely sodium alginate, glycerol and purified water. Additionally, the cream has a plant-derived emulsifier, Planta M (polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate), a herbal preservative - sorbic acid, medicinal calendula extract, unrefined hemp oil and flavoring (essential oil).

Description

The useful model belongs to cosmetology and pharmacy, namely to medical and cosmetic creams intended for the nutrition and regeneration of the skin of the face, and can be used for individual or small-batch production in industrial pharmacies or cosmetic salons.

Nourishing cosmetic creams (NFC) belong to hygienic cosmetics used at night. The main purpose of their purpose is to saturate skin structures with nutrients (fatty acids, amino acids, sugars, phospholipids, sterols, vitamins, trace elements) and stimulate regenerative processes. The ability of their components to penetrate through the epidermal barrier and enter into biochemical processes in all skin structures is an important feature of dietary fiber. Therefore, the composition of the base-carrier of the cream should include only natural fats of vegetable and animal origin, which are related to the skin and are easily absorbed by it.

Natural lipids, in addition to the transport function, also provide a nutritional effect, as they contain a complex of polyunsaturated fatty acids, vitamins (A, E, C, etc.), lecithin, phytosterols, etc. The disadvantage of natural fats is their low chemical stability due to the oxidation of unsaturated compounds; to extend the shelf life, natural lipids need additional stabilization with antioxidants. In order to increase the viscosity and consistent properties of food and beverage products, it is allowed to use natural waxes in their composition (beeswax, spermaceti, candelabra, carnauba wax, rose wax, etc.), an important feature of which is higher chemical stability and the ability not to interfere with skin respiration and secretion. According to the type of dispersed system of food and beverage, these are mainly water/oil, oil/water emulsions, or multiple emulsions, which must contain "gentle" emulsifiers that do not destroy the skin barrier during long-term use (1, 21.

As part of industrially produced food and beverage products, petroleum processing products (vaseline or perfume oil, petroleum jelly, paraffin) are often used, which are chemically stable, resistant to microbial contamination and much cheaper than natural fats. On the other hand, hydrocarbons are not absorbed by the skin and create a film on the surface that hinders metabolic processes. Aggressive emulsifiers (sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium sarcosinate, etc.) are often used in the formulation of dietary supplements, which increase the colloidal stability of the emulsion system, but destroy the water-lipid barrier of the skin. Preservatives, mainly of synthetic origin (parabens, halogen-containing compounds), which are used in high

With concentrations to increase microbiological stability and, accordingly, extend the shelf life of the product. Such preservatives, with long-term use, can negatively affect the natural microflora of the skin. Synthetic organosilicon compounds (dimethicone, cyclomethicone) are used to improve consumer properties, such as ease of application and reduction of the feeling of tight skin. These substances are hydrophobic film-formers with a large molecular weight, which are almost or not at all absorbed by the skin, therefore they prevent the absorption of fat-soluble vitamins and other biologically active substances (BAR). When combining all the above-mentioned components in industrially produced housing and communal services, their main functional purpose is almost completely eliminated in favor of consumer characteristics; in addition, such dietary supplements can show side effects with long-term use.

For the care of the skin of the face and body, there is a well-known product (patent of Ukraine Mo 6788), which is an emulsion cream with nourishing and moisturizing properties, which is intended for all skin types. As nutritional components, the product contains cocoa and coconut oil, walnut and wheat germ oils, lanolin; as moisturizing additives, the cream contains allantoin and urea.

The disadvantage of the product is the use of emulsifying wax, which is a complex emulsifier that contains aggressive anionic surfactants (surfactants) - sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium cetyl sulfate. It also contains silcom (a mixture of dimethicone and cyclomethicone), which reduces the absorption of BAR vegetable oils in the cream; triethanolamine (carbopol thickener, pH regulator) has an irritating effect on the skin; lanolin (wool wax) is a viscous, sticky mass of yellow-brown color with a specific smell, which reduces the organoleptic properties of the cream, and can cause allergic reactions with long-term use (51.

A well-known cosmetic preparation (Ukrainian patent 66332) in the form of a cream designed to stimulate the functioning of the skin with a simultaneous anti-inflammatory, regenerating and bactericidal effect. Oil extracts of various plants (nettle, yarrow, parsley, chestnut, etc.) and an aqueous solution of the bischofite mineral are offered as BAR. The disadvantage of the tool is the lack of data on the raw materials (roots, leaves, seeds, flowers) of oily plant extracts, the manufacturer or the method of their production. The product contains fatty alcohols and esters of glycerol and fatty acids as emulsifiers, which may not provide the appropriate colloidal stability of the emulsion system b).

A well-known cosmetic cream (patent of Ukraine 83294) for flabby aging skin, containing low-molecular plant peptides and an emulsion base with auxiliary substances,

mainly of natural origin. The disadvantage of the cream is the lack of data on the preservative and microbiological stability of the product |G71.

The basis of a useful model is the task of developing a medical-cosmetic cream with a nourishing and regenerating effect by scientifically based selection of ingredients for its formulation and ensuring proper penetration into the skin structure, safety during application and stability during storage.

The task is solved by the fact that the nourishing cream consists of an oil phase, namely refined almond oil, shea butter, rice bran wax; aqueous phase, namely sodium alginate, glycerin and purified water, according to the useful model, the cream additionally contains an emulsifier of plant origin Riapia M (polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate), a preservative of plant origin - sorbic acid. To ensure a regenerating effect, it additionally contains a dry extract of medicinal calendula and unrefined hemp oil and flavoring. The nourishing cream includes active and auxiliary substances in the following ratio:

Composition of the cream Quantity, g

Refined almond oil 10.0-25.0

Oil | hemp 50-80 unrefined

Shea butter 3.0-10.0

Rice bran wax 2.0-4.0

Emulsifier Riapia M 2.0-4.0

Sodium alginate 0.8-12

Glycerin 4.0-6.0

Sorbic acid 0.15-0.25

Calendula and medicinal 0.5-3.0 dry extract

Fragrance (essential oil) 0.2-0.3

The water is purified to 100.0

Almond oil (Oieut Atudaaiagit, AItopa oi) is a fatty oil consisting mainly of glycerides of linoleic, oleic and palmitic acids. It is a transparent oily liquid, colorless or pale yellow in color, odorless, with a pleasant oily (nutty) taste; does not dry in air. Use for all skin types.

Hemp oil (Sappabriv Zaiima 5eey ОЙ) is a fatty oil containing an optimal (3:1) ratio of linoleic (0-6) and α-linolenic (0-3) acids, which are necessary for preserving and protecting the functions of various cells of the human body. It is a transparent oily liquid, greenish-yellow in color, with a slight specific smell. Unrefined oil contains other BARs (phytosterols, phospholipids, minerals, vitamins A, B:, Bhe, Bz, Bhe, C, 0, and EE, carotene, chlorophyll), which enhance its nourishing and regenerating function.

Shea or shea butter (Z5pea Vytseg, Vshugozregptit raikii oiiY) is an ointment-like or solid mass of white color with a creamy shade, which is obtained from the seeds of the Shea plant (synonymous with Shea

Vitelaria is beautiful); Latin name - Vshugozregyt raikia, MieyPapa ragadokha, family Zaroiasea.

The oil consists mainly of triglycerides of oleic, stearic, palmitic acids and unsaponified fats. Provides the necessary consistency of the cream and the ability to penetrate deeply

From the skin and deliver various BARs to its layers. It also has a softening and regenerating effect.

Rice bran wax (Ogula Zayima bhap ugah) is a hard, brittle mass of light yellow color with a high melting point of 77-85"C, therefore it ensures the proper consistency of the cream.

Contains free fatty acids (palmitic, behenic, lignoseric), esters of higher alcohols (cyrillic, myricyl, etc.) and other lipoids (squalene, phytosterols, and phospholipids).

Accordingly, it exhibits a moisturizing, regenerating and antioxidant effect.

Sodium alginate is a polysaccharide obtained from brown algae of the genera Laminaria (Iatipapa) and Macrocystis (Masgosuviiv); white powder with a yellowish tint, forms transparent light yellow gels of various viscosities with a specific smell in a wide pH range (from 4 to 10).

The solubility of sodium alginate in water practically does not depend on temperature; compatible with a significant number of substances. It has the function of a stabilizer-thickener, which additionally provides proper colloidal stability to the emulsion cream at a low concentration of the emulsifier.

Glycerin (SPiusegoi) is a viscous, transparent, colorless, very hygroscopic liquid, odorless, with a sweetish taste; miscible in any ratio with water. It is used to improve and accelerate the dissolution of sodium alginate, and also provides a moisturizing effect to the cream due to its high hygroscopicity.

Riapia M (Roiudiusegu!I-Z3 Meipuidiisoze bBiviveaagaie - polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate) is a nonionic emulsifier and emollient of natural plant origin, which forms direct emulsions of the oil/water type; looks like cream-white plates, hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) is 12, pH - 4.5-8.5, melting point - 70 "С, recommended concentration -

Z3-5596.

Sorbic acid (Acidit zogfrisite, Zogbis acid) is widely used in the pharmaceutical, cosmetic and food industries as an antimicrobial preservative.

It exhibits antifungal and antibacterial activity at a concentration of 0.05-0.2 965. It is obtained by extracting the fruits of mountain ash (5ogriv aysyragia I.) or synthetically |81.

The dry extract of marigolds is a yellow-orange powder obtained by extracting flowers with subsequent removal of the extractant. Calendula flowers contain a BAR complex in high concentration (carotenoids up to C 96, flavonoids up to 0.895, tannins up to 6 95 and others), which provide regenerating, astringent, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, etc. properties

Specifically, the method was carried out as follows.

Preparation of the oil phase

In a porcelain container in a water bath, fuse the components in order of decreasing melting point: rice bran wax, emulsifier, shea butter, almond oil.

Preparation of the aqueous phase

Sodium alginate is ground with glycerin, water is added, and dissolved. Then it is heated to 80 "C and a preservative is added.

Phase mixing

Reverse emulsification method (dispersed aqueous medium is added to the dispersed oil phase) - hot gel is added to the oil alloy in several steps with intensive mixing using an electric mixer.

Introduction of BAR and aroma

Calendula extract is mixed with hemp oil and added to the base of the cream at a temperature of no higher than 45 "С; at the end, essential oil of geranium (or ylang-ylang, rose, etc.) is added and the cream is mixed until it cools completely.

From Packaging and design of the cream

The finished cream is transferred to a jar, decorated with a label. Store in a cool place for 6 months.

The proposed medical and cosmetic cream is white with a yellowish-green tint, has a pleasant smell, a delicate consistency, and no visible inclusions. In terms of quality indicators, it meets the requirements of the 2nd edition of the DFU; retains its properties for 6 months.

Example 1

Formulation of model bases of nourishing cream

During the experiment, we prepared 9 model prescriptions of emulsion cream bases, which contained 25 95 almond oil, 7 95 shea butter, and 95 rice bran wax (Table 1).

Table 1

Formulation of model foundations of nourishing cream (per 100 g) 1! 21314516 | 7 | 8 9 2 |MashemMmyve | 3 | with | with | !/! / | her

Z |IRalaMmmM 7 HER 7 HER 17 z z | 31 1 1 4 fErkalanPEG-75 | | !/ / th/! / |z z z 5 |Guarovakamed./..// | 1 | | | 1 HER / 6 | Xanthan gum | | 1 | | | | 171 7 |Natrualinat// | | | 1 /! |: 17 8 | Oil map | 7 | 7 | 7 | 7 | 7 | 7 | 7 71 7. 9 | With | With | With | With | With | With | With | With | WITH

To obtain a stable emulsion system, emulsifiers of natural or semi-synthetic origin were selected: Riapia M; MaishtemMiize - a mixture of surfactants glyceryl stearate and cetaryl alcohol (2nd kind), sodium stearyl lactylate (1st kind); Erkalan PEG-75 (dry lanolin) polyethylene glycol ether of lanolin. To increase the stability of emulsions and simultaneously reduce the concentration of emulsifiers (not higher than 3 95), gelling agents of vegetable (sodium alginate, guar gum) and biotechnological (xanthan gum) origin in a concentration of 1 95 were selected.

Example 2

Parameters studied in model samples.

The prepared bases were evaluated for organoleptic and consumer properties, colloidal and thermal stability, pH, viscosity, dispersibility and the degree of penetration into the agar gel were determined.

Determination of thermal and colloidal stability was carried out according to the methods described in (DSTU 4765:2007) |IZY. The pH level of the studied samples was determined potentiometrically using a universal ionometer ЕВ-74 at 20 "С (DFU 2 ed., vol. 1, 2.2.3). Viscosity of model samples of the bases was measured on a rotary viscometer "Mug 3000 Mav" (Missoiesi, Spain) at a temperature of 20x20.1 C. The temperature was measured with a laboratory thermometer with a division value from 0.1 "C to 0.5 "C. A sample weight (50.0 g) was placed in the chamber and the spindle 5504-21 was lowered into it. After that the spindle was moved at a deformation rate of 20 rpm and the viscometer readings were recorded (DFU 2 ed., vol. 1., 2.2.10). The dispersion of particles of the oil phase of the emulsion system was carried out using an electron microscope "Oen

Oriyas! Sepeiys Rgo" with a built-in camera (objective 40/0.65 160/0.17; eyepiece M/E 10/18) (DFU 2 ed., volume 1., 2.9.37) (21.

Example C

In order to identify the ability of emulsion carriers to resist destruction under the influence of high or low temperatures, as well as mechanical factors, their colloidal and thermal stability was determined. The results of the study, presented in Table 2, indicate that the bases that contained the emulsifier Ercalan PEG-75 (Mo 7-9) did not pass the test. Other carriers with emulsifiers Mayte Miyive and Riapia M had adequate thermal and colloidal stability.

Coo)

Table 2

Colloidal and thermal stability of the investigated bases

Me 11111117 is stable. | 0 | stable | 0 71717172 17111111stablna.i/// | 0 | stable | 0 71717178... 171 stable. | 0 | stable | 0 77717174 171 stable. | 0 | stable | 0 711715 17 stable. | 0 | stable | 0 71717176 17 stable. | 0 | stable | 0 77171178... 17 unstable. | 025 | unstable | 008 71179 | unstable | 01 | unstable | 005

Example 4

The results of determining the pH and structural viscosity of cream bases are presented in Table 3.

All samples were characterized by a pH value that met the requirements for products for dermatological use and ranged from 6.3 to 7.1. For the Mo 6 base, the pH value of 6.3 was closest to the skin surface value of 4.5-5.5.

Table C

Indicators of pH and viscosity of cream bases

Mme1 | Me2 | Mez | Me4 | Me5 | Meb

The structural viscosity of bases (Mo 2 and 5) with xanthan gum gelling agent was higher than 20,000 mPa-s. According to organoleptic indicators, these bases were too thick, spread unevenly on the skin, and gave a feeling of stickiness. Accordingly, these samples were excluded from subsequent tests. Bases with sodium alginate thickener were characterized by a viscosity of 9100 mPa-s (Mo 6) and 11650 mPa.-s (Me 3) and were superior to other media in terms of organoleptic sensations.

So, in the following experiment, four cream bases (Mo 1, 3, 4, b) were used, which prevailed in terms of physicochemical indicators.

Example 5

When conducting microscopic studies, it was found that the samples of Mo 1, 4 (guar gum thickener) are heterogeneous in terms of dispersion, since a significant percentage is made up of large fractions (7-8 μm). Sample Me 3 and 6 (sodium alginate thickener) are characterized by smaller sizes and differences in the diameter of oil particles. The smallest average size (2.6 μm) and homogeneity of particles of the dispersed phase are characteristic of sample Me 6 (Riapia M emulsifier).

To study the effect of the type of cream base on the effectiveness of the release of BAR of calendula extract, the method of "agar plates" was used. According to the research, the base Me 6 is characterized by the highest penetrating ability.

Therefore, based on the results of physico-chemical (colloidal and thermal stability, pH, viscosity, dispersion of oil phase particles) and biopharmaceutical studies, the carrier of the active ingredients of calendula extract was selected as Mob base, which contained a combination of Riapia M emulsifier and sodium alginate thickener.

Sources of information: 1. Arkt Ya. Basis of cosmetic products as a delivery system of active ingredients//

Cosmetics and medicine. - 2001. - Mo. 6. - P. 23-29. 2. State Pharmacopoeia of Ukraine: in Vol. 3 / State Enterprise "Ukrainian Scientific

From the Pharmacopoeia Center for the Quality of Medicines". - 2nd ed. - Kharkiv: State Enterprise "Ukrainian Scientific Pharmacopoeia Center for the Quality of Medicines", 2014. - Vol. 1. - 1127 p.; vol. 2-124 p.; T 3-732 p. 3. Cosmetic creams. General technical conditions: DSTU 4765:2007. - (Effective from 2009-01-01 - K.:

Derzhspozhivstandard of Ukraine, 2008. - 7 p. 4. Cosmetic creams and emulsions: Composition. Receiving The tested method / H. Kutz, S.

Friess, S. Henning, N. Lünz. Under the municipality ed. Pletneva M.Yu., 2004. - 272 p. 5. Patent of Ukraine Mo 6788 "Cream for skin care" (May 16, 2005). b. Patent of Ukraine Me 66332 "Cosmetic preparation" (April 15, 2004). 7. Patent of Ukraine Mo 83294 "Cosmetic cream" (27.08.2013). 8. mmly.rpagptepsusioredia.sot. tsa

Claims (1)

USEFUL MODEL FORMULA Medicinal and cosmetic cream with nourishing and regenerating action, which consists of an oil phase, namely 45 refined almond oil, shea butter, rice bran wax; aqueous phase, namely sodium alginate, glycerin and purified water, which is distinguished by the fact that it additionally contains an emulsifier of plant origin Riapia M (polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate), plant-based preservative sorbic acid, dry calendula extract, aroma (essential oil) and unrefined hemp oil to ensure a regenerating 50 effect, in the following composition, g: refined almond oil 10.0-25.0 unrefined hemp oil 5.0-8.0 shea butter 3.0-10.0 rice bran wax 2.0-4.0 Riapia M emulsifier 2.0-4.0 sodium alginate 0.8-12 glycerin 4.0-6.0 sorbic acid 0.15-0.25 flavoring (essential oil) 0.2-0.3 medicinal calendula extract and racto, v-3.0 dry purified water up to 100.0.