TWI714133B - Manufacturing method of knitted fabric and structure thereof - Google Patents

Manufacturing method of knitted fabric and structure thereof Download PDF

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TWI714133B
TWI714133B TW108121569A TW108121569A TWI714133B TW I714133 B TWI714133 B TW I714133B TW 108121569 A TW108121569 A TW 108121569A TW 108121569 A TW108121569 A TW 108121569A TW I714133 B TWI714133 B TW I714133B
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knitted fabric
manufacturing
fabric
yarn
ground
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TW202100841A (en
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鄭國烟
施奕良
沈今朗
曾貫宇
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越南商越南百宏責任有限公司
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Abstract

A manufacturing method of knitted fabric includes a knitting step, a dyeing step and a setting step. In the knitting step, a knitting machine knits a ground yarn assembly and a jacquard yarn assembly into a grey cloth, and the grey cloth is a Jacquard fabric. In the dyeing step, the grey cloth is dyed. In the setting step, the dyed grey cloth is shaped for obtaining a knitted fabric. A material of the ground yarn assembly and a material of the jacquard yarn assembly are textured yarn. Therefore, according to the aforementioned method, a pre-setting step of the conventional process can be reduced, and the manufacturing time can be shortened. The manufacturing cost can also be greatly reduced, and the production efficiency of the knitted fabric can be improved.

Description

針織布料之製造方法及其結構 Manufacturing method and structure of knitted fabric

本發明是有關一種針織布料之製造方法及其結構,且特別是有關於一種可減少工序、降低成本且縮短製造時程的針織布料之製造方法及其結構。 The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing knitted fabric and its structure, and in particular to a method for manufacturing knitted fabric and its structure, which can reduce the number of processes, reduce costs, and shorten the manufacturing time.

在製造彈性布料之傳統的染整工藝中,為了使布料具有良好的回彈性,往往會選用或加入彈性纖維進行織造,如氨綸裸膠絲,並在進行染整作業前,需經過預定型步驟的處理,以令彈性布料獲得良好的尺寸安定性及達到平整的布面外觀。 In the traditional dyeing and finishing process of manufacturing elastic fabrics, in order to make the fabrics have good resilience, elastic fibers are often selected or added for weaving, such as spandex bare rubber yarn, and pre-determined steps are required before dyeing and finishing operations. The treatment to make the elastic fabric obtain good dimensional stability and achieve a smooth fabric appearance.

然,進行預定型處理時所需的高溫將影響及破壞紗線的狀態,進而影響針織布料的手感,使針織布料變得硬挺,穿著舒適性差。另外,預定型處理的流程長、耗能高,因而降低彈性針織布料的製造效率,也增加額外的費用及成本。 However, the high temperature required for the pre-sizing process will affect and destroy the state of the yarn, and then affect the feel of the knitted fabric, making the knitted fabric stiff and poor wearing comfort. In addition, the pre-processing has a long process and high energy consumption, which reduces the manufacturing efficiency of elastic knitted fabrics and also increases additional expenses and costs.

是以,如何製造具彈性特性的針織布料,及提升其製造效能,遂成相關業者共同努力之目標。 Therefore, how to make knitted fabrics with elastic properties and improve its manufacturing efficiency has become the goal of the joint efforts of related industries.

本發明提供一種針織布料之製造方法及其結構,本發明之針織布料結構在不包含任何彈性紗線的情況下,透過省略習知染整織造工藝中的預定步驟,藉此令本發明之針織布料結構仍保有良好的彈性及回復性,並藉以提高針織布料之整體的製造效率。 The present invention provides a method for manufacturing knitted fabric and its structure. The knitted fabric structure of the present invention does not contain any elastic yarns by omitting predetermined steps in the conventional dyeing, finishing and weaving process, thereby making the knitted fabric of the present invention The fabric structure still maintains good elasticity and resilience, thereby improving the overall manufacturing efficiency of knitted fabrics.

依據本發明之一態樣提供一種針織布料之製造方法,包含織造步驟、染色步驟及成定步驟。織造步驟係利用編織機將一地梳紗線組織與一提花紗線組織編織成一胚布,且胚布為賈卡提花織物。染色步驟係將胚布進行染色。成定步驟係將染色後之胚布進行尺寸定型,並獲得一針織布料,其中,地梳紗線組織之材質與提花紗線組織之材質為加工絲。 According to one aspect of the present invention, a method for manufacturing a knitted fabric is provided, which includes a weaving step, a dyeing step, and a setting step. The weaving step is to use a knitting machine to knit a ground carded yarn structure and a jacquard yarn structure into a green fabric, and the green fabric is a jacquard fabric. The dyeing step is to dye the fabric. The setting step is to size and shape the dyed fabric to obtain a knitted fabric, wherein the material of the ground card yarn structure and the material of the jacquard yarn structure are processed silk.

根據前述態樣之針織布料之製造方法,其中加工絲可為非彈性纖維。 According to the method for manufacturing a knitted fabric of the aforementioned aspect, the processed yarn may be an inelastic fiber.

根據前述態樣之針織布料之製造方法,其中加工絲可為聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯(Polyethylene Terephthalate:PET)纖維或陽離子可染(Cationic Dyeable Polyester;CDP)纖維。 According to the method for manufacturing a knitted fabric of the aforementioned aspect, the processed yarn may be a polyethylene terephthalate (PET) fiber or a cationic dyeable polyester (CDP) fiber.

根據前述態樣之針織布料之製造方法,其中在織造步驟中,編織機可以一經編方式將地梳紗線組織與提花紗線組織編織成胚布。 According to the method for manufacturing a knitted fabric of the aforementioned aspect, in the weaving step, the knitting machine can knit the ground carded yarn structure and the jacquard yarn structure into a green fabric in a warp knitting manner.

根據前述態樣之針織布料之製造方法,其中在織造步驟中,編織機可藉由一單針床結構將地梳紗線組織與提花紗線組織編織成胚布。 According to the method for manufacturing a knitted fabric of the aforementioned aspect, in the weaving step, the knitting machine can knit the ground carded yarn structure and the jacquard yarn structure into a green fabric through a single needle bed structure.

根據前述態樣之針織布料之製造方法,其中在織造步驟中,編織機可藉由一雙針床結構將地梳紗線組織與提花紗線組織編織成胚布。 According to the method for manufacturing a knitted fabric of the aforementioned aspect, in the weaving step, the knitting machine can knit the ground carded yarn structure and the jacquard yarn structure into a green fabric through a double needle bed structure.

根據前述態樣之針織布料之製造方法,其中染色步驟透過一染色溫度將胚布進行染色,染色溫度可為98℃至135℃。 According to the method for manufacturing a knitted fabric of the aforementioned aspect, the dyeing step dyes the fabric through a dyeing temperature, and the dyeing temperature can be 98°C to 135°C.

根據前述態樣之針織布料之製造方法,其中染色步驟經過一染色時間完成,染色時間可為4小時至5小時。 According to the manufacturing method of the knitted fabric of the aforementioned aspect, the dyeing step is completed after a dyeing time, and the dyeing time can be 4 hours to 5 hours.

根據前述態樣之針織布料之製造方法,其中成定步驟透過一成定溫度將胚布進行尺寸定型,成定溫度可為140℃至160℃。 According to the method of manufacturing a knitted fabric of the aforementioned aspect, the fabric is sized by a predetermined temperature in the setting step, and the predetermined temperature can be 140°C to 160°C.

根據前述態樣之針織布料之製造方法,其中成定步驟透過一超喂速度將胚布進行尺寸定型,超喂速度可為15m/min至25m/min。 According to the manufacturing method of the knitted fabric of the aforementioned aspect, in the setting step, the embryonic fabric is dimensioned through an overfeeding speed, and the overfeeding speed can be 15m/min to 25m/min.

根據前述態樣之針織布料之製造方法,其中成定步驟可維持60秒至90秒。 According to the manufacturing method of the knitted fabric of the aforementioned aspect, the setting step can be maintained for 60 to 90 seconds.

根據前述態樣之針織布料之製造方法,其中胚布具有一織造密度,織造密度可為10CPCM至15CPCM。 According to the manufacturing method of the knitted fabric of the aforementioned aspect, the fabric has a weaving density, and the weaving density can be 10CPCM to 15CPCM.

根據前述態樣之針織布料之製造方法,其中針織布料之製造方法不包含一預定步驟,預定步驟係使用化學藥劑以及高溫環境加工於針織布料。 According to the method for manufacturing knitted fabric of the aforementioned aspect, the method for manufacturing knitted fabric does not include a predetermined step, and the predetermined step is to process the knitted fabric using chemicals and a high temperature environment.

根據前述態樣之針織布料之製造方法,其中針織布料不包含一彈性纖維。 According to the method for manufacturing a knitted fabric of the aforementioned aspect, the knitted fabric does not contain an elastic fiber.

依據本發明之另一態樣提供一種利用前述之製造方法所製成的針織布料結構,其為一賈卡提花織物,並包含一地梳紗線組織及一提花紗線組織。地梳紗線組織包含一第一地梳紗線單元及複數個第二地梳紗線單元,第二地梳紗線單元與第一地梳紗線單元相互交織。提花紗線組織設置於地梳紗線組織之一表面且包含第一提花紗線單元,第一提花紗線單元與第二地梳紗線單元交錯編織,其中,地梳紗線組織之材質及提花紗線組織之材質為一加工絲。 According to another aspect of the present invention, there is provided a knitted fabric structure made by the aforementioned manufacturing method, which is a jacquard fabric and includes a ground card yarn structure and a jacquard yarn structure. The ground carding yarn structure includes a first ground carding unit and a plurality of second ground carding units. The second ground carding unit and the first ground carding unit are interwoven. The jacquard yarn structure is arranged on a surface of the ground carded yarn structure and includes a first jacquard yarn unit, the first jacquard yarn unit and the second ground carded yarn unit are interlaced weaving, wherein the material of the ground carded yarn structure is The material of jacquard yarn is a processed silk.

根據前述態樣之針織布料結構,其中針織布料結構不包含一彈性纖維。 According to the knitted fabric structure of the aforementioned aspect, the knitted fabric structure does not include an elastic fiber.

100、300‧‧‧針織布料之製造方法 100, 300‧‧‧Method of manufacturing knitted fabric

110、320‧‧‧織造步驟 110、320‧‧‧Weaving steps

120、330‧‧‧染色步驟 120、330‧‧‧Dyeing steps

130、340‧‧‧成定步驟 130, 340‧‧‧ set steps

310‧‧‧繪製步驟 310‧‧‧Drawing steps

200‧‧‧針織布料 200‧‧‧Knitted fabric

210‧‧‧地梳紗線組織 210‧‧‧Ground carded yarn organization

211‧‧‧第一地梳紗線單元 211‧‧‧First carding unit

212‧‧‧第二地梳紗線單元 212‧‧‧Second carding unit

220‧‧‧提花紗線組織 220‧‧‧Jacquard yarn weave

221‧‧‧第一提花紗線單元 221‧‧‧First Jacquard Yarn Unit

第1圖繪示依照本發明一實施例之針織布料之製造方法的流程示意圖;第2圖繪示依照第1圖實施方式之針織布料結構的梳櫛組織示意圖;以及第3圖繪示依照本發明另一實施例之針織布料之製造方法的流程示意圖。 Fig. 1 is a schematic diagram of the process of manufacturing a knitted fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention; Fig. 2 is a schematic diagram of a bar weave of the knitted fabric structure according to the embodiment of Fig. 1; Invented another embodiment of the process flow diagram of the manufacturing method of knitted fabric.

以下將參照圖式說明本發明之實施例。為明確說明起見,許多實務上的細節將在以下敘述中一併說明。然而,閱讀者應瞭解到,這些實務上的細節不應用以限制本發明。也就是說,在本發明部分實施例中,這些實務上的細節是非必要的。此外,為簡化圖式起見,一些習知慣用的結構與元件在圖式中將以簡單示意的方式繪示;並且重複之元件將可能使用相同的編號或類似的編號表示。 Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings. For the sake of clarity, many practical details will be explained in the following description. However, the reader should understand that these practical details should not be used to limit the present invention. That is to say, in some embodiments of the present invention, these practical details are unnecessary. In addition, for the sake of simplification of the drawings, some conventionally used structures and elements will be drawn in a simple schematic manner in the drawings; and repeated elements may be represented by the same number or similar numbers.

請一併參閱第1圖與第2圖,其中第1圖繪示依照本發明一實施例之針織布料之製造方法100的流程示意圖。第2圖繪示依照第1圖實施方式之針織布料200之結構的梳櫛組織示意圖。針織布料之製造方法100包含織造步驟110、染色步驟120及成定步驟130。織造步驟110係利用一編織機將一地梳紗線組織210與一提花紗線組織220編織成一胚布,且胚布為一賈卡提花織物,其中,地梳紗線組織210之材質與提花紗線組織220之材質為加工絲。染色步驟120係將胚布進行染色。成定步驟130係將染色後之胚布進行尺寸定型,並獲得一針織布料200。 Please refer to FIG. 1 and FIG. 2 together. FIG. 1 is a schematic flowchart of a method 100 for manufacturing a knitted fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention. FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram of the comb structure of the structure of the knitted fabric 200 according to the embodiment in FIG. 1. The manufacturing method 100 of knitted fabric includes a weaving step 110, a dyeing step 120, and a setting step 130. The weaving step 110 is to use a knitting machine to knit a ground carded yarn structure 210 and a jacquard yarn structure 220 into a green fabric, and the green fabric is a jacquard jacquard fabric, wherein the material of the ground bared yarn structure 210 and the jacquard The material of the yarn structure 220 is processed silk. In the dyeing step 120, the fabric is dyed. The setting step 130 is to size and shape the dyed fabric to obtain a knitted fabric 200.

再者,本發明之針織布料之製造方法100之織造步驟110不包含彈性纖維。針織布料之製造方法100不包含製造彈性布料之傳統工藝中的預定步驟,預定步驟係使用化學藥劑以及高溫環境加工於針織布料。 Furthermore, the weaving step 110 of the method 100 for manufacturing a knitted fabric of the present invention does not include elastic fibers. The manufacturing method 100 of knitted fabric does not include predetermined steps in the traditional process of manufacturing elastic fabrics, and the predetermined steps are processed on the knitted fabric using chemicals and high temperature environments.

詳細而言,在製造彈性布料之傳統的染整工藝中,為了使布料具有良好的回彈性,往往會選用或加入彈性纖維進行織造,如氨綸裸膠絲,並在進行染整作業前,會先 進行一高溫的水洗步驟,以令布料中的彈性纖維回縮,再經過一預定步驟,以使布料的彈性趨於穩定。然而,預定步驟中的化學藥劑以及高溫環境會破壞布料之紗線,使得布料過於硬挺,手感舒適性差,且預定步驟耗時、耗能,其增加製造的成本。 In detail, in the traditional dyeing and finishing process of manufacturing elastic fabrics, in order to make the fabrics have good resilience, elastic fibers are often selected or added for weaving, such as spandex bare rubber yarn. first Perform a high-temperature water washing step to shrink the elastic fibers in the fabric, and then go through a predetermined step to stabilize the elasticity of the fabric. However, the chemicals in the predetermined step and the high temperature environment will damage the yarns of the cloth, making the cloth too stiff, with poor hand feel, and the predetermined step is time-consuming and energy-consuming, which increases the manufacturing cost.

有鑑於此,透過上述針織布料之製造方法100,胚布在不包含任何彈性纖維的情況下,於染色步驟120前可省略傳統染整工藝上的預定步驟。透過省略預定步驟,可避免預定步驟中的化學藥劑及高溫破壞胚布之紗線(地梳紗線組織210及提花紗線組織220)的結構,藉以使胚布之紗線仍保有其蓬鬆的特性,並藉此令針織布料200達到良好的回彈性,並更可提升針織布料200之手感的舒適性。除此之外,針織布料之製造方法100不但可減少傳統工序的預定步驟而縮短製造時程,還能大幅地降低製造成本並提高生產效能。 In view of this, through the above-mentioned method 100 for manufacturing a knitted fabric, the original fabric without any elastic fibers can omit the predetermined steps in the traditional dyeing and finishing process before the dyeing step 120. By omitting the predetermined steps, the chemical agents and high temperature in the predetermined steps can prevent the structure of the yarn (ground carded yarn structure 210 and jacquard yarn structure 220) from damaging the fabric of the fabric, so that the yarn of the fabric can still maintain its fluffy With this characteristic, the knitted fabric 200 achieves good resilience, and the comfort of the knitted fabric 200 can be improved. In addition, the manufacturing method 100 for knitted fabrics can not only reduce the predetermined steps of the traditional process and shorten the manufacturing time, but also greatly reduce the manufacturing cost and improve the production efficiency.

在織造步驟110中,編織機可透過單針床結構或雙針床結構,以經編方式將地梳紗線組織210與提花紗線組織220編織成胚布。詳細來說,在第2圖中,地梳紗線組織210包含一第一地梳紗線單元211及複數個第二地梳紗線單元212,第二地梳紗線單元212與第一地梳紗線單元211相互交織;提花紗線組織220設置於地梳紗線組織210之表面,且包含第一提花紗線單元221,第一提花紗線單元221與第二地梳紗線單元212交錯編織。 In the weaving step 110, the knitting machine can knit the ground carded yarn structure 210 and the jacquard yarn structure 220 into a green fabric through a single needle bed structure or a double needle bed structure in a warp knitting manner. In detail, in Figure 2, the ground carding yarn structure 210 includes a first ground carding unit 211 and a plurality of second ground carding units 212, the second ground carding unit 212 and the first ground The carding yarn units 211 are interlaced with each other; the jacquard yarn structure 220 is arranged on the surface of the ground carding yarn structure 210 and includes a first jacquard yarn unit 221, a first jacquard yarn unit 221 and a second ground carding unit 212 Staggered weaving.

進一步來說,第一地梳紗線單元211、第二地梳紗線單元212及第一提花紗線單元221皆以全穿紗線的方式進行編織,且在織造步驟110中所織出的胚布,其織造密度可為10CPCM至15CPCM。藉由上述結構,可有利於使地梳紗線組織210及提花紗線組織220保有足夠的拉伸空間,並藉以使針織布料200具有良好的回彈性。 Furthermore, the first ground carding unit 211, the second ground carding unit 212, and the first jacquard yarn unit 221 are all knitted in a full-through yarn manner, and the weaves are knitted in the weaving step 110 The weaving density of green fabric can be 10CPCM to 15CPCM. With the above structure, it is advantageous for the ground carded yarn structure 210 and the jacquard yarn structure 220 to maintain sufficient stretching space, and thereby the knitted fabric 200 has good resilience.

藉由上述織造步驟110之編織方法,可製成一具有網眼孔洞的賈卡提花織物,且針織布料200可任意開孔提花。藉此,可增加針織布料200的透氣性,且針織布料200之網眼孔洞形狀可呈現菱形、方形、圓形或六角形之任意形狀,並使針織布料200具有視覺上的層次感,但本發明不以此揭示內容為限,可依操作需求以不同之編織方法製成一具有網眼孔洞的賈卡提花織物。 By the weaving method of the weaving step 110, a jacquard jacquard fabric with mesh holes can be made, and the knitted fabric 200 can be jacquard with holes at will. Thereby, the air permeability of the knitted fabric 200 can be increased, and the mesh hole shape of the knitted fabric 200 can present any shape of rhombus, square, round or hexagon, and the knitted fabric 200 has a visual layering feeling. The invention is not limited to this disclosure, and a jacquard jacquard fabric with mesh holes can be made by different weaving methods according to operating requirements.

值得一提的是,地梳紗線組織210之材質與提花紗線組織220之材質可為加工絲,且加工絲為非彈性纖維。較佳地,加工絲可為聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯(Polyethylene Terephthalate;PET)纖維或陽離子可染(Cationic Dyeable Polyester;CDP)纖維。另外,透過PET纖維及CDP纖維取代傳統之彈性布料的氨綸裸膠絲,可有利於提升針織布料200的手感舒適性,但本發明不以此為限。 It is worth mentioning that the material of the ground carded yarn structure 210 and the material of the jacquard yarn structure 220 can be processed silk, and the processed silk is inelastic fiber. Preferably, the processed yarn may be polyethylene terephthalate (PET) fiber or cationic dyeable polyester (CDP) fiber. In addition, replacing the bare spandex yarns of traditional elastic fabrics with PET fibers and CDP fibers can help improve the feel and comfort of the knitted fabric 200, but the present invention is not limited to this.

將織造步驟110中產生的胚布進行染色步驟120,染色步驟120透過一染色溫度及一染色時間,將胚布進行染色,且此染色溫度可設定為98℃至135℃,染色 時間可設定為4小時至5小時。透過此染色時間及在此染色溫度之環境下,染料可均勻地附著於各紗線組織上,但本發明不以此為限。 The fabric produced in the weaving step 110 is subjected to a dyeing step 120. The dyeing step 120 dyes the fabric through a dyeing temperature and a dyeing time, and the dyeing temperature can be set to 98°C to 135°C. The time can be set from 4 hours to 5 hours. Through the dyeing time and the dyeing temperature environment, the dye can be uniformly attached to each yarn structure, but the present invention is not limited to this.

值得一提的是,傳統之含彈性纖維的布料易有色牢度不高的狀況,針織布料之製造方法100藉由選用PET纖維及CDP纖維以取代彈性纖維,藉此可改善其色牢度不高的狀況,及改善彈性纖維容易溢色的問題,並有利於提升胚布於染色步驟120中染色的均勻度及色牢度。 It is worth mentioning that traditional fabrics containing elastic fibers tend to have low color fastness. The manufacturing method 100 of knitted fabrics uses PET fibers and CDP fibers to replace elastic fibers to improve their color fastness. High condition, and improve the problem of easy color bleeding of elastic fibers, and help to improve the uniformity and color fastness of the fabric dyeing in the dyeing step 120.

為了獲得符合產品需求的針織布料200,需將染色後之胚布重新定型,成定步驟130係將染色後之胚布在一成定溫度下進行加熱定型,且此成定溫度可為140℃至160℃。值得一提的是,在成定步驟130中,可不對染色後的胚布進行拉伸,藉此能保護紗線之原有的延伸性及拉伸度,進而使針織布料200具有良好的回彈性。此外,成定步驟130透過一超喂速度對胚布進行尺寸定型,超喂速度可為15m/min至25m/min,且成定步驟130可維持60秒至90秒,成定溫度、超喂速度及成定步驟130之維持時間可依紗線狀態及操作需求調整,本發明不以此揭示內容為限。在此特別說明的是,上述染色步驟120與成定步驟130均為習知的技術,在此不另贅述。 In order to obtain the knitted fabric 200 that meets the requirements of the product, the dyed fabric must be reshaped. The forming step 130 is to heat and set the dyed fabric at a certain temperature, and the final temperature can be 140°C. To 160°C. It is worth mentioning that in the setting step 130, the dyed fabric may not be stretched, so as to protect the original extensibility and stretchability of the yarn, so that the knitted fabric 200 has a good recovery. elasticity. In addition, the setting step 130 is used to shape the size of the fabric through an overfeeding speed. The overfeeding speed can be 15m/min to 25m/min, and the setting step 130 can be maintained for 60 to 90 seconds. The maintaining time of the speed and definite step 130 can be adjusted according to the yarn state and operation requirements, and the present invention is not limited to this disclosure. It is particularly noted here that the above-mentioned dyeing step 120 and the setting step 130 are all conventional techniques, and will not be repeated here.

請一併參閱第1圖與第3圖,第3圖繪示依照本發明另一實施例之針織布料之製造方法300的流程示意圖。針織布料之製造方法300包含繪製步驟310、織造步驟320、染色步驟330及成定步驟340。其中織造步驟320、染 色步驟330及成定步驟340分別與第1圖之織造步驟110、染色步驟120及成定步驟130相同,不再贅述。特別的是,針織布料之製造方法300可更包含一繪製步驟310,其係透過一繪圖軟體(如EAT)繪製一賈卡提花織物之花形圖案,並設定編織機之配紗數據。編織機係依據繪製步驟310之花形圖案及配紗數據進行織造步驟320。 Please refer to FIG. 1 and FIG. 3 together. FIG. 3 is a schematic flowchart of a method 300 for manufacturing a knitted fabric according to another embodiment of the present invention. The manufacturing method 300 of the knitted fabric includes a drawing step 310, a weaving step 320, a dyeing step 330, and a setting step 340. Among them weaving step 320, dyeing The coloring step 330 and the setting step 340 are respectively the same as the weaving step 110, the dyeing step 120 and the setting step 130 in FIG. 1, and will not be repeated. In particular, the manufacturing method 300 of knitted fabric may further include a drawing step 310, which draws a jacquard pattern of a jacquard fabric through a drawing software (such as EAT), and sets the yarn matching data of the knitting machine. The knitting machine performs the weaving step 320 according to the flower pattern and the yarn arrangement data of the drawing step 310.

為了評估利用針織布料之製造方法100所製成的針織布料200的物理性質,係針對第2圖實施例之針織布料200、利用習知製造方法所製成的比較例1及含彈性纖維的比較例2之定點延伸度、克重進行試驗。表一列出第2圖實施例之針織布料200的實驗數據,表二列出比較例1的實驗數據,表三列出比較例2的實驗數據,其中,針織布料200不包含彈性纖維且無經過預定步驟,比較例1不包含彈性纖維並有經過預定步驟,比較例2包含彈性纖維並有經過預定步驟。 In order to evaluate the physical properties of the knitted fabric 200 made by the knitted fabric manufacturing method 100, the comparison of the knitted fabric 200 of the embodiment in Figure 2 and the comparative example 1 made by the conventional manufacturing method and the comparison of elastic fibers The fixed point extension and gram weight of Example 2 were tested. Table 1 lists the experimental data of the knitted fabric 200 of the embodiment in Figure 2, Table 2 lists the experimental data of Comparative Example 1, and Table 3 lists the experimental data of Comparative Example 2. Among them, the knitted fabric 200 does not contain elastic fibers and does not After predetermined steps, Comparative Example 1 does not contain elastic fibers and has undergone predetermined steps, and Comparative Example 2 contains elastic fibers and has undergone predetermined steps.

在此特別說明的是,針織布料200、比較例1及比較例2之織造方法皆為全穿方式,且表一、表二以及表三中GB表示地梳紗線組織210,JB表示提花紗線組織220,下面將詳述針織布料200、比較例1及比較例2之物理性質的比較。 It is specifically explained here that the weaving methods of knitted fabric 200, Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 2 are all wear-through methods, and in Table 1, Table 2, and Table 3, GB represents ground carded yarn structure 210, and JB represents jacquard yarn For the thread structure 220, the comparison of the physical properties of the knitted fabric 200, Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 2 will be detailed below.

表一可知,針織布料200在無經過預定步驟且不含彈性纖維的情況下,針織布料200之經方向的延伸度為35.2%,縱方向的延伸度為83%,其重量為302.1g/m2Table 1 shows that the knitted fabric 200 has an elongation in the warp direction of 35.2%, an elongation in the longitudinal direction of 83%, and a weight of 302.1g/m without any predetermined steps and no elastic fibers. 2 .

Figure 108121569-A0101-12-0009-9
Figure 108121569-A0101-12-0009-9
Figure 108121569-A0101-12-0010-2
Figure 108121569-A0101-12-0010-2

表二可知,比較例1無包含彈性纖維,且有經過預定步驟。由表一及表二的結果可知,在紗線之粗細及數量皆為相同的情況下,有經過預定步驟的比較例1之定點拉伸度較針織布料200差。 Table 2 shows that Comparative Example 1 does not contain elastic fibers and has undergone predetermined steps. From the results of Table 1 and Table 2, it can be seen that when the thickness and number of yarns are the same, the fixed-point stretch of Comparative Example 1 with predetermined steps is worse than that of knitted fabric 200.

Figure 108121569-A0101-12-0010-3
Figure 108121569-A0101-12-0010-3

表三可知,比較例2有包含彈性纖維(氨綸),且有經過預定步驟。由表一及表三的結果可知,針織布料200在不包含任何彈性纖維的情況下,已具有接近含彈性纖維的比較例2的延伸度,且在紗線之粗細及數量皆為相同的情況下,針織布料200的重量明顯低於含彈性纖維的比較例2。 Table 3 shows that Comparative Example 2 contains elastic fiber (spandex) and has undergone predetermined steps. From the results of Table 1 and Table 3, it can be seen that the knitted fabric 200, without any elastic fibers, has an elongation close to that of Comparative Example 2 containing elastic fibers, and the yarn thickness and quantity are the same. Next, the weight of the knitted fabric 200 is significantly lower than that of Comparative Example 2 containing elastic fibers.

Figure 108121569-A0101-12-0010-10
Figure 108121569-A0101-12-0010-10
Figure 108121569-A0101-12-0011-5
Figure 108121569-A0101-12-0011-5

總結上述,透過針織布料之製造方法100中省略預定步驟,可有效改善比較例1之布面過於硬挺且延伸性差的問題。再者,利用針織布料之製造方法100所製成的針織布料200在不包含任何彈性纖維的情況下,仍具有接近含彈性纖維之彈性布料的延伸性,且相較於傳統之彈性布料(如比較例2),針織布料200之重量較輕,且能達到更舒適的布料手感。藉此,本發明的針織布料200可被應用於鞋材類、運動服飾、家飾、箱包、醫療及車用方面物品,可被廣泛的應用於生活中常用的物品上,具有一定的實用性質。 To summarize the above, by omitting predetermined steps in the manufacturing method 100 of knitted fabrics, the problem of the cloth surface of Comparative Example 1 that is too stiff and poor in extensibility can be effectively improved. Furthermore, the knitted fabric 200 made by the method 100 for manufacturing knitted fabrics does not contain any elastic fibers, but still has an extensibility close to that of elastic fabrics containing elastic fibers, and is compared with traditional elastic fabrics (such as In Comparative Example 2), the weight of the knitted fabric 200 is lighter and can achieve a more comfortable fabric feel. Thereby, the knitted fabric 200 of the present invention can be applied to shoes, sportswear, furnishings, luggage, medical and automotive items, and can be widely used in items commonly used in daily life, and has certain practical properties. .

雖然本揭示內容已以實施例揭露如上,然其並非用以限定本揭示內容,任何所屬技術領域中具有通常知識者,在不脫離本揭示內容的精神和範圍內,當可作些許的更動與潤飾,故本揭示內容的保護範圍當視後附的申請專利範圍所界定者為準。 Although the present disclosure has been disclosed in the above embodiments, it is not intended to limit the present disclosure. Anyone with ordinary knowledge in the relevant technical field can make some changes and modifications without departing from the spirit and scope of the present disclosure. Retouching, therefore, the protection scope of this disclosure shall be subject to the scope of the attached patent application.

100‧‧‧針織布料之製造方法 100‧‧‧The manufacturing method of knitted fabric

110‧‧‧織造步驟 110‧‧‧Weaving steps

120‧‧‧染色步驟 120‧‧‧Dyeing steps

130‧‧‧成定步驟 130‧‧‧Definite Steps

Claims (15)

一種針織布料之製造方法,包含:一織造步驟,利用一編織機將一地梳紗線組織與一提花紗線組織編織成一胚布,且該胚布為一賈卡提花織物;一染色步驟,將該胚布進行染色;以及一成定步驟,將染色後之該胚布進行尺寸定型,並獲得一針織布料;其中,該地梳紗線組織之材質與該提花紗線組織之材質為一加工絲,該針織布料之製造方法不包含一預定步驟,該預定步驟係使用化學藥劑以及高溫環境加工於該針織布料。 A method for manufacturing knitted fabrics includes: a weaving step, using a knitting machine to knit a ground carded yarn weave and a jacquard yarn weave into a fabric, and the fabric is a jacquard fabric; a dyeing step, Dyeing the fabric; and a step of forming the size of the dyed fabric to obtain a knitted fabric; wherein the texture of the ground card yarn and the texture of the jacquard yarn are the same For processing silk, the manufacturing method of the knitted fabric does not include a predetermined step, and the predetermined step is processed on the knitted fabric using chemicals and a high temperature environment. 如申請專利範圍第1項所述的針織布料之製造方法,其中該加工絲為一非彈性纖維。 According to the method for manufacturing a knitted fabric described in item 1 of the scope of patent application, the processed yarn is an inelastic fiber. 如申請專利範圍第2項所述的針織布料之製造方法,其中該加工絲為聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯(Polyethylene Terephthalate;PET)纖維或陽離子可染(Cationic Dyeable Polyester;CDP)纖維。 According to the method for manufacturing a knitted fabric described in item 2 of the scope of patent application, the processed yarn is polyethylene terephthalate (PET) fiber or cationic dyeable polyester (CDP) fiber. 如申請專利範圍第1項所述的針織布料之製造方法,其中在該織造步驟中,該編織機以一經編方式將該地梳紗線組織與該提花紗線組織編織成該胚布。 The method for manufacturing a knitted fabric as described in the first item of the patent application, wherein in the weaving step, the knitting machine knits the ground carded yarn structure and the jacquard yarn structure into the green fabric in a warp knitting manner. 如申請專利範圍第1項所述的針織布料之製造方法,其中在該織造步驟中,該編織機藉由一單針床結構將該地梳紗線組織與該提花紗線組織編織成該胚布。 The method of manufacturing a knitted fabric according to the first item of the scope of patent application, wherein in the weaving step, the knitting machine knits the ground carded yarn structure and the jacquard yarn structure into the embryo through a single needle bed structure cloth. 如申請專利範圍第1項所述的針織布料之製造方法,其中在該織造步驟中,該編織機藉由一雙針床結構將該地梳紗線組織與該提花紗線組織編織成該胚布。 The method for manufacturing a knitted fabric as described in claim 1, wherein in the weaving step, the knitting machine uses a double needle bed structure to knit the ground carded yarn structure and the jacquard yarn structure into the embryo cloth. 如申請專利範圍第1項所述的針織布料之製造方法,其中該染色步驟透過一染色溫度將該胚布進行染色,該染色溫度為98℃至135℃。 The method for manufacturing a knitted fabric as described in the first item of the scope of patent application, wherein the dyeing step dyes the fabric through a dyeing temperature, and the dyeing temperature is 98°C to 135°C. 如申請專利範圍第1項所述的針織布料之製造方法,其中該染色步驟經過一染色時間完成,該染色時間為4小時至5小時。 According to the method for manufacturing a knitted fabric as described in item 1 of the patent application, the dyeing step is completed after a dyeing time, and the dyeing time is 4 hours to 5 hours. 如申請專利範圍第1項所述的針織布料之製造方法,其中該成定步驟透過一成定溫度將該胚布進行尺寸定型,該成定溫度為140℃至160℃。 According to the method for manufacturing a knitted fabric as described in the first item of the scope of patent application, in the setting step, the embryo fabric is sized at a predetermined temperature, and the predetermined temperature is 140°C to 160°C. 如申請專利範圍第1項所述的針織布料之製造方法,其中該成定步驟透過一超喂速度將該胚布進行尺寸定型,該超喂速度為15m/min至25m/min。 According to the method for manufacturing a knitted fabric as described in item 1 of the scope of patent application, in the setting step, the embryonic fabric is dimensioned through an overfeeding speed, and the overfeeding speed is 15m/min to 25m/min. 如申請專利範圍第1項所述的針織布料之製造方法,其中該成定步驟維持60秒至90秒。 According to the method for manufacturing a knitted fabric described in item 1 of the scope of patent application, the setting step is maintained for 60 seconds to 90 seconds. 如申請專利範圍第1項所述的針織布料之製造方法,其中該胚布具有一織造密度,該織造密度為10CPCM至15CPCM。 According to the method for manufacturing a knitted fabric as described in item 1 of the scope of the patent application, the fabric has a weaving density, and the weaving density is 10CPCM to 15CPCM. 如申請專利範圍第1項所述的針織布料之製造方法,其中該針織布料不包含一彈性纖維。 The method for manufacturing a knitted fabric as described in item 1 of the patent application, wherein the knitted fabric does not contain an elastic fiber. 一種利用申請專利範圍第1項所述之製造方法所製成的針織布料結構,其為一賈卡提花織物,並包含:一地梳紗線組織,包含: 一第一地梳紗線單元;及複數個第二地梳紗線單元,與該第一地梳紗線單元相互交織;以及一提花紗線組織,設置於該地梳紗線組織之一表面且包含:一第一提花紗線單元,與該些第二地梳紗線單元交錯編織;其中,該地梳紗線組織之材質及該提花紗線組織之材質為一加工絲。 A knitted fabric structure made by the manufacturing method described in item 1 of the scope of patent application, which is a jacquard jacquard fabric, and includes: a ground carded yarn structure, including: A first ground carding unit; and a plurality of second ground carding units interlaced with the first ground carding unit; and a jacquard yarn structure arranged on a surface of the ground carding structure It also includes: a first jacquard yarn unit interlaced with the second ground carded yarn units; wherein the material of the ground carded yarn structure and the material of the jacquard yarn structure is a processed yarn. 如申請專利範圍第14項所述的針織布料結構,其中,該針織布料結構不包含一彈性纖維。 The knitted fabric structure described in item 14 of the scope of patent application, wherein the knitted fabric structure does not include an elastic fiber.
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CN105386229A (en) * 2015-10-16 2016-03-09 江南大学 Jacquard spacer forming vamp and production method thereof
CN107916462A (en) * 2017-12-14 2018-04-17 江苏恒力化纤股份有限公司 A kind of sun washs composite filament and preparation method thereof

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2009059596A1 (en) * 2007-11-09 2009-05-14 Rohleder Gmbh Method for producing a woven fabric having at least two layers in some regions and woven fabric produced by said method
CN105386229A (en) * 2015-10-16 2016-03-09 江南大学 Jacquard spacer forming vamp and production method thereof
CN107916462A (en) * 2017-12-14 2018-04-17 江苏恒力化纤股份有限公司 A kind of sun washs composite filament and preparation method thereof

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