玖、發明說明： 發明領域 本發明係有關-種具彈性機能之超_幅 (Textured Yarn)及其製造方法，尤指採取具自機 素材交絡複合而製成具彈性機能之超細纖維假撚加 於經過熱處理後，始顯現彈性機能。 y 先前技藝 傳統製造超細纖維假撚加工紗的方式，如揭示於中華 利證書第127812號「異收縮超細纖維假撚:加工紗的製造方法」專 利’其主要係以沸水收縮率低於_的超細纖維假撚加工紗與滞 水收縮率高於15%的高收縮低捲_絲，經複合加工而成紗種， 由此紗種織成的義具㈣職賴錄，但並不具有彈性，有 穿著舒適感不佳的缺點存在。 此外，相關廠商亦有採取將紗線以單/雙包紗方式包繞於 LYCRASpandex (—種聚氨基甲酸酯彈性絲之商品名）外圍、或將 办線以咼速空氣打郎包繞於LYCRA Spandex外圍生產彈性包覆紗 (Covering yarn);此等紗種雖亦具有彈性，但製造步驟複雜及 生產成本高，加上聚氨基甲酸酯彈性絲仍有下列各項缺點： 1·因原料與製程之技術性複雜，成本較高。 573089 乙不耐故不如高溫輕，且修色易跪化。 3·不耐鹼（NaOH)減量加工。 4.因彈性大導致撚紗、織布及染整加工過程張力控制不易， 加工困難度極高，影響產品品質及產業效率。 、缝於此’本發日狀針對上述各觀有相難品的問題，積 極進行研九與旨4各種加卫技術及原料選擇，經過不斷試驗與改 良後’發現採取具自捲彈性機能之熱雜纖維，經由壓縮喷氣震 置假撚加1超細纖維_時，使二種储交絡複合而製成結合各 種彈性複合紗具彈性機能之高級紗種，簡化彈性複合紗之製程， 降低生產成本’城具彈性機能之高級紗種在未經染整加工的熱 處理條件之前，並未顯現出自捲彈性機能，使紗線具有優異的尺 寸安定性，容^、織造’適驗紡織工業及成衣卫f，解決傳統超 細纖維加工紗欠缺彈性而引起穿著時不良舒適性之缺點，以至完 成本發明。 573089 士，為期更詳盡說明本發明的優點，兹藉由下列說明並配合圖示 專細說明如下，其中·· 第1圖係與本發明有關的彈性超細纖維加工紗之製造方法中 採用的複合健加4程示賴。财各符號之簡單說明如下： (1)絲導 (2) 第一送絲羅拉 (3) 加熱器 (4) 冷卻板 (5) 摩擦錠組 (6)絲導 (7) 第二送絲羅拉 (8) 壓縮喷氣裝置 (9) 第三送絲羅拉 (10) 彈性超細纖維加工紗 (11) 捲取輥筒 (A) 超細纖維絲餅 (B) 自捲彈性熱塑性纖維 第2圖係與本發明有關的彈性超細纖維加工紗之製造方法中 製造自捲彈性熱塑性纖維之示意圖。 573089 發里之詳細説明 本發明愤㈣超細麟健加工紗H般合成纖維業 界所無的傳統紡絲方法或複合簡方法_的連續長纖維，經加 熱、假撚、後加工處理後而得的超細纖維假撚加功，其單絲纖 度在〇· 5丹尼以下者。 其中傳統紡絲方法，係以單一種聚合體材質，通過傳統紡絲 條件及制f，紡出單絲纖度於假撚加卫後狀㈠·丨丹尼的連續春 長、截維絲’將此連喊纖轉雜撚加工後即可獲料絲纖度義 ^#0· 5〜〇· 1丹尼的超細纖維假撚加工紗。 w 而複合紡絲方法，係以二種不同材質聚合體，通過一般習知 如合纺絲條件及設料⑽出，經假撚、後加讀理，以機械 或化子方法’將此纖轉面巾具有相互配列的相異成份分開或溶 除後’而得單絲纖度為〇· 2〜〇· 〇2丹尼之連續長纖維絲，經假拇加 工此連續長纖維絲後，即可獲得單絲纖度為〇· 2〜〇· 〇2丹尼之超細鲁 纖維假撚加 工紗。 、本發明中所使用的另—種素材，係具有自捲彈性機能的熱塑 f生纖維’係將兩種不同⑽率之麵性聚合體，—般為聚酿 ㈤yester)、聚醯胺（Polyamide)、聚乙烯 :;專，按7 : 3到3 : 7適當比例經複合紡嘴進行紡 糸而件兩種不同收縮率之熱塑性聚合體在纖維橫截面中相互配列 8 的纖維，盆贺；生-立 八、不思圖如第2圖所示。於染整步驟中 由於兩種材質收縮b T m » T網熱水 、、、S革之不同，於界面間因收縮應力之差里 類似彈簧狀螺旋，而生成自捲彈性。 I、场成 法 與本發明有關的具彈性機能之超細纖維假擒加工紗之製造方 複性機能之熱塑性纖維’與以傳統紡‘法或 、…的連續長纖維，經加熱、假撚 而得單5丹仙下之超細纖_加叫， 替此種素材於超細纖維假樵加工的同時，交絡複合以製成 種=加^種’經過織布步驟後，於染色、整理步驟中，、利 用加工日代冋溫’使得具有自捲彈性機能之_性纖軸產生收 縮差，並達到織物具有彈性效果者。 係包 與本發明有關的-轉性超細纖維加工紗之製造方法， 括以下步驟： / ， (1) 採取哺統_方法所紡出解絲纖料〇. 5〜〇. 1丹尼 連續長纖維’經加熱、假織加功^得超細纖維假樵 加工紗之步驟；·取以複合麟方法所纺出的連續長 纖維’經輪減量後開纖成單絲纖度為0.2〜0.02丹尼 連長纖維經加熱、假撚成加工紗而得超細纖維假撼 加工紗之步驟； w (2) 將二種不同收縮率之熱塑性聚合體，按7 ·· 3到3 : 7適當 比例經融炫複合紡嘴進行紡絲而製成具有自捲彈性機 573089 能之熱塑性纖維之步騍·， ~集束成彈 (3)將上述轉的超纟職—访及科自捲彈性齡 之熱塑性纖維同時喂入壓縮備置予以複合b 性超細纖維加工紗之步驟· 纖維加工紗再喂入送絲羅拉與捲取輥 (4)將所得的彈性超細 筒予以捲繞而成。 經由第1圖之加工流程示意圖觀之，超細纖維絲餅 後經過絲導⑴，進入第—送絲羅拉⑵，經她^ 冷部板⑷、摩擦旋組⑸及第二送絲羅拉⑺等，進行加熱、 延伸、捲曲㈣及冷卻等加I成為假撚加功丨此時，另一自捲 彈性熱塑性纖、維⑻’由絲導⑻併入第二送絲羅拉⑺，與 假撚加功合併喂人設於紗線導出端_射紐置⑻，藉由 具有連接高觀_空氣倾，可對紗線施岐絡複合，將加工 完成的彈性超細纖維加工紗（1())由第三送絲羅拉⑻導出，最 後再藉由控制第三送郷拉⑻與捲取婦（11)間之喂率，捲 繞紗而成。 上述假撚過程中，所使用的摩擦錠組（5)，並不限於單一種 形式’ 一般業界所習知的摩擦錠組，如：摩擦盤(Disc)、摩擦皮 帶(Belt)、針錠式(Pin)· · ·等型式，均可適用；而壓縮噴氣裝置 (8)的空氣噴嘴亦為業界所習知的設備 ’如交絡用噴嘴、混纖用 1 573089 贺嘴’均可翻’·而為_充分交絡複合的效果騎轉舒性的 目的，加工紗節數宜為在85節/米以上。 本發明之彈性超細纖維加卫紗⑴）可再經針織機、有梭、 無梭織機織成各種雜之布疋，由於未經過熱水處理前未顯現出 摊效果，尚無拉力控制之_，織造性及品質均比現有彈性複 合紗優異，·最後借助於染色、整理等後加工時的高溫，使得兩種 =同收縮率之熱塑性聚合體界面，因收縮應力差異㈣成類似彈 κ狀螺徒’產生自轉性機能，即可舒織物優異的彈性機能， 極佳的穿著舒適性。 知上所述，本發明即係針對具有自捲彈性超細纖維加工紗所 發展出的製造方法，為鮮且具體地綱本發明之特徵，以下述 只施例予以簡單說明，唯本發明並不受限於下列實施例。 〜 評估方法之説明 機台·· INSTR0N—6021萬能拉力試驗機 方法：a•於室溫無張力下裁製2. 5cmx 30cm試片 (含夾具夾持部份l〇cm) b•測試速率為1.667mm/Sec 返回速率（Return Speed )為lO.Omm/Sec c•武片預施加負載(Pre-Load )12g d·定拉力·· i〇〇〇g 計异：彈性伸長率（定拉力lOOOg下） =(A2-A1) - Alx 100% A1 :試片未拉伸前長度 A2 ·試片施加定拉力lOOOg時之長度 (實施例） 以360d/48f聚醋/改質聚醋複合纺絲超細纖維絲餅⑴，經 解舒通過料⑴，進人雜⑵，經過加熱器⑶ 加熱160 CG皿度1〇〇〜22〇 c)、冷卻板⑷冷卻、摩擦鍵組⑸ 假撚及第二送絲羅拉⑺延伸倍數228倍的延伸(延伸倍數〜 4· 〇)等作用，成為假撚加工紗；此時，75d/24f聚醋複合纺絲自捲 彈f生纖維（B) ’由絲導⑻解舒併入第二送絲羅拉⑺速度5〇〇 来/分鐘（第二送絲羅拉速度·〜9〇〇米/分鐘），與假撚加工紗合 併喂入設於紗線導出端的壓縮喷氣裝置⑻，藉由空氣喷嘴壓力 5· 〇kg/m2，對、紗線施以交絡複合，將加工完成的彈性超細纖維加 工鈔（10)由第三送絲羅拉（9)導出，最後再藉由控制第三送絲 、、隹拉（9)與捲取輥筒（I〗）間之喂率，捲繞此紗；依第1圖所示 的加工流程，生產成為225d/72f彈性超細纖維假撚加工紗。 以此加工紗作為緯紗，75d/36f假撚加工紗為經紗，經織布 573089 後，減量25%，再經磨毛、染色等後加工處理，成布除呈現豐厚、 懸垂性、柔軟、細緻、似桃皮毛的手感之外，其彈性伸長率（定 拉力lOOOg下）更可達23.1%，穿著舒適性極佳。 (比較例） 超細纖維絲餅（A)、假撚加工條件、製造方法均與上述實施鲁 例相同狀況下，將自捲彈性熱塑性纖維（B)，改為75d/36f沸水 收縮率45%的高收縮低捲縮縣，生產成為225d/84f異收縮超細 纖維假撚加工紗。 以此加工紗作為緯紗，在經紗規格、織布條件及加工處理均 比照實施例相同狀況下，成布雜伸長率（錄力麵⑺僅有 5· 8%，所以織成衣物，穿著時顯然有舒適性不佳的缺點。说明 Description of the invention: FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention is related to a kind of textured yarn with elastic function and its manufacturing method, especially the use of self-organic material interlacing and compounding to make ultrafine fiber false twist with elastic function. After being added to the heat treatment, the elastic function begins to appear. y The previous method of traditionally manufacturing ultra-fine fiber false twist processing yarns, such as disclosed in Zhonghuali Certificate No. 127812 "Isometric shrinkage of ultra-fine fiber false twist: manufacturing method of processing yarn" patent 'It is mainly based on boiling water shrinkage rate lower than _ Superfine fiber false twist processing yarn and high shrinkage and low shrinkage _ silk with a stagnation shrinkage rate of more than 15% are composite processed into yarn types. The prosthetics woven from this yarn type depend on the job, but It has no elasticity and has the disadvantages of poor wearing comfort. In addition, related manufacturers have also adopted single / double-wrap yarns around LYCRASpandex (the name of a type of polyurethane elastic yarn), or wrapped the yarn at a rapid speed. LYCRA Spandex produces elastic covering yarns. Although these yarns also have elasticity, they have complex manufacturing steps and high production costs. In addition, polyurethane elastic yarns still have the following disadvantages: Raw materials and processes are technically complex and costly. 573089 B is not as resistant to light as high temperature, and it is easy to kneel when repairing color. 3. Alkali-resistant (NaOH) reduction processing. 4. Due to the large elasticity, it is difficult to control the tension of the twisted yarn, weaving and dyeing and finishing processes, and the processing difficulty is extremely high, which affects product quality and industrial efficiency. According to the report, "The present state of the hair is in accordance with the above-mentioned problems of various difficult products, and actively carries out research on 9 and 4 of various defense technologies and raw material selection. After continuous testing and improvement," it is found that the self-winding elasticity is adopted. Hot hybrid fiber, through compression air-jet shock false twist plus 1 superfine fiber, two kinds of storage and entanglement are compounded to make a high-grade yarn that combines the elastic functions of various elastic composite yarns, simplifying the production process of elastic composite yarns and reducing production. The cost-effective high-grade yarn grade of urban furniture does not show self-winding elasticity before the heat treatment conditions of dyeing and finishing, so that the yarn has excellent dimensional stability, capacity, and weaving. It is suitable for the textile industry and clothing. Wei f solves the shortcomings of lack of elasticity caused by the lack of elasticity of traditional ultra-fine fiber processing yarns and causes poor comfort during wearing, and completes the present invention. 573089 scholars, in order to explain the advantages of the present invention in more detail, hereby use the following description with the illustrations to explain in detail as follows, where: Figure 1 is used in the method of manufacturing the elastic ultrafine fiber processing yarn related to the present invention Compound health plus 4 passes. A brief description of the symbols is as follows: (1) Silk guide (2) First wire feed roller (3) Heater (4) Cooling plate (5) Friction ingot set (6) Wire guide (7) Second wire feed roller (8) Compression air-jet device (9) Third wire feed roller (10) Elastic microfiber processing yarn (11) Winding roller (A) Microfiber cake (B) Self-rolling elastic thermoplastic fiber Figure 2 A schematic diagram of manufacturing a self-rolling elastic thermoplastic fiber in a method for manufacturing an elastic microfiber processing yarn related to the present invention. 573089 Detailed description of the hair The continuous long fiber of the traditional spinning method or composite method which is not found in the industry of ultrafine linjian processing yarn H-like synthetic fiber according to the present invention is obtained by heating, false twisting and post-processing. Superfine fiber false twist plus work, whose monofilament fineness is less than 0.5 denier. Among them, the traditional spinning method is based on a single polymer material. Through the traditional spinning conditions and system f, the monofilament titer is spun in the shape of false twist and guard. After the continuous fiber twisting and hybrid twist processing, the fineness of the silk yarn can be obtained ^ # 0 · 5 ~ 〇 · 1 denier superfine fiber false twist processing yarn. w The composite spinning method is based on the use of two different material aggregates, which are drawn out through general practices such as combined spinning conditions and materials, and then twisted, and then read, and then mechanically or chemically. The face towel has separated and dissolved components that are aligned with each other to obtain a continuous filament fiber with a single-filament fineness of 0.2 to 0.20 denier. After processing the continuous filament fiber with a false thumb, An ultra-fine fiber false twist processing yarn having a monofilament fineness of 0.2 to 0.22 denier was obtained. 2. Another kind of material used in the present invention is a thermoplastic fiber that has self-rolling elasticity. It is a kind of surface polymer with two kinds of different ratios, which is generally poly-ester (yester), polyamine ( Polyamide); Polyethylene ;; Specially, two kinds of thermoplastic polymers with two different shrinkage ratios are spun through a composite spinning nozzle at an appropriate ratio of 7: 3 to 3: 7, and 8 fibers are aligned with each other in the fiber cross section. Health-Liba, not thinking as shown in Figure 2. In the dyeing and finishing step, due to the difference between the two materials shrinking b T m »T mesh hot water,, and S leather, it is similar to a spring-like spiral due to the difference in shrinkage stress between the interfaces, resulting in self-rolling elasticity. I. Field-forming method Manufacture of ultra-fine fiber false processing yarns with elastic function related to the present invention Manufacture of renaturing thermoplastic fiber 'and continuous long fiber by traditional spinning' method or, after heating, false twisting And get 5 super fine fiber under the Danxian _ Jiao, while this kind of material is processed in the superfine fiber false maggot processing, interweaving and compounding to make seed = plus ^ species' After weaving step, dyeing and finishing In the step, the processing daytime temperature is used to cause the shrinkage difference between the self-winding elastic fiber shaft and the elasticity effect of the fabric. 1 丹尼 Continuous is a method for manufacturing a convertible ultra-fine fiber processing yarn related to the present invention, including the following steps: /, (1) Take the defibrillation fiber material spun from the feeding method _0.5 ~ 〇.1 Denis continuous Long fiber 'heated, false weaving, and work ^ to obtain ultrafine fiber false reed processing yarn; take the continuous long fiber spun by the composite Lin method' after reduction, open fiber into a monofilament fineness of 0.2 ~ 0.02 Steps of heating denier long fibers and false twisting them into processing yarns to obtain ultra-fine fiber false processing yarns; w (2) Two thermoplastic polymers with different shrinkage ratios are appropriate according to 7 ·· 3 to 3: 7 Proportion of the thermoplastic fiber with self-winding elastic machine 573089 after spinning through a blending spinning nozzle. ~ Clustering into a bomb The thermoplastic fibers are simultaneously fed into a compression device for composite b-type superfine fiber processing yarns. The fiber-processed yarns are fed into a feed roller and a take-up roller (4), and the resulting elastic ultrafine tube is wound. According to the schematic diagram of the processing flow in Figure 1, after the ultra-fine fiber silk cake passes through the silk guide, it enters the first wire-feeding roller ⑵, passes her ^ cold section plate ⑷, the friction screw group ⑸, and the second wire-feeding roller ⑺, etc. Perform heating, stretching, crimping, and cooling, and add I to false twisting work. At this time, another self-winding elastic thermoplastic fiber and dimensional fiber are merged from the silk guide to the second wire feeding roller, and the false twisting work is added. Combined feeding and feeding is set at the yarn export end _ shoot button. With the connection of high view _ air tilt, the yarn can be composited, and the processed elastic ultrafine fiber processing yarn (1 ()) is processed by The third feed roller is led out, and finally the yarn is wound by controlling the feeding rate between the third feed roller and the take-up woman (11). In the above-mentioned false twisting process, the friction ingot set (5) used is not limited to a single form. 'Friction ingot sets known in the general industry, such as: friction disc (Disc), friction belt (Belt), needle spindle type (Pin) · · · and other types can be applied; and the air nozzle of the compression jet device (8) is also a well-known device in the industry 'such as entanglement nozzles and mixed fiber 1 573089 nozzles can be turned' · For the purpose of fully interlocking and compounding effect, the number of yarns processed should be above 85 knots / meter. The elastic microfiber plus guard yarn of the present invention can be woven into various kinds of fabrics by knitting machines, shuttles, and shuttleless looms. Since it does not show a spreading effect before hot water treatment, there is no tensile control. _, Weaving and quality are better than the existing elastic composite yarns. Finally, with the help of the high temperature during post-processing such as dyeing and finishing, the two types of thermoplastic polymer interfaces with the same shrinkage rate have similar elastic κ due to the difference in shrinkage stress. The spiral-shaped screwman's self-rotating function, that is, excellent elasticity of the fabric, and excellent wearing comfort. As mentioned above, the present invention is a manufacturing method developed for self-rolling elastic microfiber processing yarn. It is a feature of the present invention that is fresh and specific. It is briefly explained by the following examples. It is not limited to the following examples. ~ Description of the evaluation method Machine · INSTR0N—6021 Universal tensile testing machine method: a • Cutting 2. 5cmx 30cm test piece at room temperature without tension (including 10cm of clamp holding part) b • Test rate is 1.667mm / Sec Return Speed is 10. Omm / Sec c • Pre-Load 12g d · Fixed Tension ·· 〇〇〇g Differential: elastic elongation (constant tensile force 1000g Bottom) = (A2-A1)-Alx 100% A1: Length of the test piece before stretching A2 · Length of the test piece when a constant tensile force of 1,000 g is applied (Example) 360d / 48f polyacetate / modified polyacetate composite spinning Superfine fiber silk cake ⑴, pass through the feed 经, enter the miscellaneous 经, pass the heater ⑶ heating 160 CG dish degree 100 ～ 22〇c), cooling plate ⑷ cooling, friction key group ⑸ false twist and the first The two-feed silk rollers are stretched by 228 times (extension multiples ~ 4 · 〇) and become the false twist processing yarn; at this time, 75d / 24f polyacetate composite spinning self-rolling elastic fibers (B) 'from The silk guide is relieved and incorporated into the second feed roller speed of 500 rpm / min (second feed roller speed · ~ 900 m / min), and the feed is combined with the false twist processing yarn. The compression air-jet device 纱线 at the yarn outlet end uses an air nozzle pressure of 5.0 kg / m2 to apply entanglement and compounding to the yarn, and the processed elastic ultrafine fiber processing banknote (10) is fed by a third wire roller (9) Export, and finally wind the yarn by controlling the feed rate between the third wire feeding, the pull (9) and the take-up roller (I); according to the processing flow shown in Figure 1, Production of 225d / 72f elastic microfiber false twist processing yarn. This processing yarn is used as weft, and 75d / 36f false twist processing yarn is used as warp. After weaving 573089, the weight is reduced by 25%, and after finishing processing such as sanding and dyeing, the finished fabric appears rich, drape, soft, and delicate. In addition to the feel of peach fur, its elastic elongation (at a constant tensile force of 1000g) can reach 23.1%, which is excellent in wearing comfort. (Comparative example) Under the same conditions as in the above-mentioned embodiment, the ultrafine fiber silk cake (A), false twist processing conditions, and manufacturing method were changed from self-rolling elastic thermoplastic fiber (B) to 75d / 36f boiling water shrinkage 45% High shrinkage and low crimp counties, producing 225d / 84f hetero shrinkage superfine fiber false twist processing yarn. This processing yarn is used as weft yarn. Under warp yarn specifications, weaving conditions and processing treatments, the elongation rate of cloth is mixed under the same conditions as in the embodiment (the recording surface is only 5.8%, so weaving into clothing is obvious when wearing There are disadvantages of poor comfort.
由以上實施例與比較例比較可知，本發明採用具有自捲彈 機能之熱塑性纖維，與超細纖維假撚加工紗，作適切的加工， 呈現超細纖維原有特性外，更能賦予獨 、 纖維假撚加工紗之缺點。 °寻、、死文 產業上可應用柃 1 573089 本發明之彈性超細纖維假撚加工紗，在未經染整加工的熱處 理條件之前，未顯現自捲彈性機能並，意即紗線具有優異之尺寸 安定性’容易織造，在紡織工業及成衣工業非常有用，極具產業 生產價值。 圖式簡單説明 第1圖係與本發明有關的彈性超細纖維加工紗之製法中採用的複 合假撚加工流程示意圖。 第2圖係與本發明彳關的彈性超細纖維力口工紗之製法中製造自捲 彈性熱塑性纖維之示意圖。 符號之 (1) 絲導 (2) 第一送絲羅拉 (3) 加熱器 (4) 冷卻板 (5) 摩擦錠組 (6) 絲導 (Ό第二送絲羅拉 (8) 壓縮噴氣裝置 (9) 第三送絲羅拉 573089 (10) 彈性超細纖維加工紗 (11) 捲取輥筒 (A) 超細纖維絲餅 (B) 自捲彈性熱塑性纖維From the comparison between the above examples and comparative examples, it can be known that the present invention uses thermoplastic fibers with self-winding function and ultra-fine fiber false twist processing yarns for proper processing. In addition to the original characteristics of ultra-fine fibers, it can also give independent, Disadvantages of fiber false twist processing yarn. ° It can be applied to the dead text industry 柃 1 573089 The elastic ultrafine fiber false twist processing yarn of the present invention does not show self-winding elasticity before the heat treatment conditions of dyeing and finishing, which means that the yarn has excellent The dimensional stability is easy to weave, it is very useful in the textile industry and the garment industry, and has great industrial production value. Brief Description of the Drawings Figure 1 is a schematic diagram of a composite false twist processing flow used in the method for manufacturing an elastic ultrafine fiber processing yarn related to the present invention. Fig. 2 is a schematic view showing the production of a self-rolling elastic thermoplastic fiber in the method for manufacturing an elastic ultrafine fiber yam related to the present invention. Symbol (1) Silk guide (2) First wire feed roller (3) Heater (4) Cooling plate (5) Friction ingot set (6) Wire guide (ΌSecond wire feed roller (8) Compression jet device ( 9) Third wire feed roller 573089 (10) Elastic microfiber processing yarn (11) Winding roller (A) Microfiber cake (B) Self-rolling elastic thermoplastic fiber